Crofton, MD
#373 and psyched.
(Topic ID: 257850)
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Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
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Another Rick and Morty spot coming up on Ebay ending in 5 hours. #680 BSE. Currently at $2025. Will it hit 4k for a high number?
ebay.com link: Rick and Morty Blood Sucker Edition pinball machine pre order spot
Quoted from Borygard:Lyman's Tavern in DC.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com
Not too far from me. I may have to make a pilgrimage this weekend.
Just added it to the Pinmap. First Rick and Morty on the East Coast is 45 minutes from my house!
So, Rick and Morty is starting to show up in the wild now. Anybody know what number they are up to manufacturing wise? I am guessing they have shipped about 40 now. I'm 373 so I'm still expecting September.
Quoted from Coindropper:Hopefully some of you who have received your games early can use these. I will tweak as more code is released. Hopefully they will serve some purpose for now. These should be printable, but let me know if sizing seems off or if rules are off. 3 per page.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This will be the only pin I have insert cards for before I have the machine. Thanks and positive vibes your way!
Quoted from Whysnow:honestly, this game is the whole package.
What I like broken down a bit >>
Intergation: Best theme integration since TAF. Lights, sounds, callouts, annimations, music. All combining to bring your IN TO the game. World under glass gets over used, but this game really makes you like you are part of the experience. Very few games capture this.
Geometry and Risk v Reward: The game is on par IMHO with TWD for unique geometry that is challenging but very doable. The game has both flow and control needed and the software compliments it perfectly. The game is exactly what I would expect from Scott D, Eric P, and Bowen combination and we are just seeing the foundation at this stage. I know some of the things that are coming in code and I can hardly wait. I think TWD is the best comparative for 'feel' of this game and TWD is one of my favorite Sterns ever made. TWD you must be able to hit all three drop targets (top 2 are easy but bottom can be challenging). R&M you need to find the ramps (right is easy, but you have to find the left). When you make shots in each game, you need to be ready for both offense with a quick return that requires you to shoot on the fly (flow) or the possibility of a need to gain control. This game keeps you on your toes. It is for sure a players game. TLDR of this point> the game fucking rocks to play and is challenging but rewarding. This is exactly what I look for in modern pinball.
Light show: WOW o WoW! Seriously the best lightshow in all of pinball
Animations: David is by far the best animator in the business. He just gets 'it' for pinball. He has great assests to use with R&M but his layering and understanding of theme integration in a way that the player readily understands what to do is amazing. Most modern games have so much shit going on with the screen that it takes me months to even know where to look and what it is telling me. R&M (and ACNC) are good because David has it figured out. Appealing to the eye and easy on the brain. He seems to understand that the screen is entertainment for onlookers, information gathering for the player, and should also keep you engaged when you have down time (waiting on mode start) in the game.
Callouts: are fucking hilarious! Tons of them. From the show and unique. I can not stress how important real voice actors with actual pinball call outs are for theme integration. This game is not simply a R&M pinball. It is part of the R&M storyline and if anyone has not realized, it has continuations or extensions of the storylines in cool ways. It is like the "what may have been" if the episodes were longer or they revisted a storyline. I dont think any pinball has done that yet?
Sounds: Fantastic. Scott D is great here obviously and his real passion. It shows. This game is a mini dance party and light show combined. I can hardly wait to have my personal one and late night jam out sessions with the wife while sipping on good boubon and in a dimly lit pinball room. Going to be a blast.
Comedy: Pinball has sorely been missing comedy. It died with MM and AFM for some reason. DP had a poor attempt at some 1 liners but they all feel forced. R&M is just plain funny shit and the callouts and timing of those callouts are enough to pull you out of your own head while playing. What good comedy in pinball is supposed to do. Serious , "what did it just say?" moments and LOL times where I am giggling to myself as I walk away and the game just kicked my ass.
Build quality: Best built spooky ever and they keep making improvements. Better mechs. PF is best ever. While some companies are using thinner gauge metal to save a nickel on each build, spooky is going the opposite direction and asking themselves what can they make better. They are even making brand new mechs (in pf trough for staged ball).
1 con: This really only applies to the first batch as I think all aspects will come out of the factory much improved with each successive batch. There are some fine tunings that need to be done for the game to shine. Sadly, many pinheads are not comfortable with this and will be disjointed. They walk in to a bar and that example is not exactly how they think it should ( it may not shoot exactly as intended if not leveled and pitched accurately) be and then think every single game "has a spinner that rejects shots" (Granted, many of these guys are pissed they missed out and also ragging on the game because they want one; they also suck at pinball and like games where they can close their eyes and hit a shot on the first time because it is always in the sweet spot of the flipper). To be clear, these fine tunings are 1/64' to 1/8' adjustments for how a ball guides sits. This game has so much in it, that the physical placements are important. Factory workers are not pinheads and don't think about these things until they are laid out.
Fine tunings I suggest for each owner of the first 40 that were built if you are interested in fine tuning the game:
To be 100% clear, these are all MINOR adjustments. These are normal things I do for every game I touch. These are things that have been fed back to factory and they use this feedback for future games. Spooky is always improving.
I am hesitant to even write these as a few douchebags will fixate on them. Dont be a fucking Jerry. I am sharing these to help those operators that complained till they got and early game, but then need the help to learn how to make adjustments.
-Ensure the right orbit feeds the ball smoothly so it rides down the upper right flipper in direct parallel to the flipper.
-Adjust your upper right flipper angle to ensure it feeds cleanly to the upper spinner orbit and the left garage portal shot (too low and spinner shot is wrong; too high and portal is wrong)
-Ensure the inner spinner orbit guide rails have a little curvature (not a flat spot at entry) that extends the length of the entry for the shot. This will make this shot easier for noobs/complainers as increased curve will change that later movement into vertical and push the ball through the inner orbit. Go ahead and balance and juice your spinner if you think it is slowing your ball. On my route game, the shot is correctly balance and when you hit it clean, then it will come around so quick you have likely missed it. When you hit is somewhat sloppy, it will still make it around. When you bonk it, then you suck and it is not the game.
Another good indicator you have this shot tuned is a right orbit with diverter to spinner should hit the tip of the UR flipper.
-Check the height of your center scoop. This is designed to sit high to protect the pf wood. Basically a built in cliffy. If this is sitting too high then it will increase rejects. Lower it or bend your scoop hood to tune yours as you see fit.
To be 100% clear, these are all MINOR adjustments. These are normal things I do for every game I touch. My list for TWD was 2x as long and that is my favorite Stern. Again, don't be a Jerry.
This game fucking rocks!
Dont forget to rate the game!
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:What's the latest # to be shipped? Are we in the 50s yet?
Supposedly Kaneda is #50 so we will 100% know when we the 50s pins arrive.
1 week later
Put 20 games on this at Lyman's Tavern in D.C. today and have 1 on pre-order!
I'll put the bad up front (Disclaimer, this is on fairly early code with less than 50 machines in the wild):
The bad:
1. The Garage Shot is as hard as people say. I made it 3 times in 20 games.
2. The different dimensions require a garage shot. My 3 dimensions I made it to ended instantly because it flashed up on the screen what the dimension was, I looked up to read it, and the ball came out the portal instantly and drained before I could read it.
3. The Magna-save is cool, but I saw 0 opportunities where I could have used it to save the ball.
4. The ball got stuck... alot. I had the ball fly off the end of the left ramp and wedge itself into the wireform that spits out the ball from launch multiple times. The ball also got stuck in the lip of the scoop a couple of times... to the point I had to tilt it to get it out.
5. Not exactly sure what the Beth/Jerry/Summer targets are used for outside of modes
The good.
6. The pop bumper only seemed to pop on balls approaching from the top on this example.
7. No rule cards?
8. The ship on a stick looked cool, but I'm not sure it performed correctly when it was supposed to move.
1. Art is on point. I've heard complaints about the playfield, but it looks nice in person. The cabinet and rails look good... the backbox looks good, the topper looks good.
2. The game reminds me very favorably of The Addams Family. Shoot ramps to light scoop to start new random mode.
3. The modes are laid out well and explain what you are supposed to do very well.
4. The stock sound system rocks and the music/call outs are great.
5. More swearing than an NWA album.
6. There were heavy balltrails and grime from heavy use on this machine, but I saw 0 dimples.
7. The modes are nicely varied.
Overall I had a blast and cannot wait to get to tear into my first NIB in my basement. I'm sure the game will only improve with code. If I can get the garage shot dialed in on my basement machine I'll think this one is hard to beat.
If you've played one, don't forget to rate it!
(Also got to play Alien and Elvira for the first time too!)
20200311_131831 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Just left the club and sold my deposit for 373 for cost. I love this game, it's fantastic, but as of yesterday I decided that if I got the call that my machine was ready I'd hesitate before signing the check. Although I have left the club, I still plan on being a huge Rick and Morty Cheerleader as the game is loads of fun.
7 months later
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Just left the club and sold my deposit for 373 for cost. I love this game, it's fantastic, but as of yesterday I decided that if I got the call that my machine was ready I'd hesitate before signing the check. Although I have left the club, I still plan on being a huge Rick and Morty Cheerleader as the game is loads of fun.
I'm back in the club! Pinball Karma comes back around! 7 months ago I sold my Rick and Morty for cost to a pin buddy when I thought I was losing my job due to COVID. I kept my job. Earlier today when talking pinball he mentioned he was full up on pinball machines with a GNR on the way for his last spot and did I want my spot back. Hell to the yes! So I am back in on #373 R&M. Just gotta pay later in the week when I see him and call Spooky. Super excited. I got a TNA in the interim (not the same) but love Danesi's game and love the music. Been following the cartoon and it's great. Really looking forward to making this my first NIB.
What number are the up to on the line?
1 week later
Is there a flipper code on this to turn the profanity settings on or off? I understand it's in the menu and can be set on a timer. Just curious and looking forward to getting my R&M order sheet soon! 373 in the house!
#373 checking in. Just got the email from Spooky asking what accessories I want in my build. ITS HAPPENING!
Quoted from waynetrane:I decided to trim my rod a little bit, so the ship-plastic cannot expand so much anymore.
I'll take out of context quotes for $500 please.
Quoted from guitarded:Fantastic news!
When did you get your build sheet?
11/11
Quoted from pinballslave:Can someone please help me understand what the different editions are of this game? I know there is a Blood Sucker edition, but don't know what that means in terns of differences and don't know what other different editions there are...
I'm getting pulled into wanting one of these, and want to know which edition to track down if I should come off the fence totally!
Thanks!
There are 2 versions, a Blood Suckers Edition (BSE) and Standard. All BSE pins will be built first. The only real difference is purple trim and legs on the BSE with cool armor around the flippers. They are making 750 of these... all but 50 or so are BSE. All are sold. They have made about 1/2 of them so far. Pictures/breakdown available here:
Has anyone installed a shooter lane protector in their Rick and Morty? Other than switching out the flipper rubbers for colored ones, this is the only day one mod I'd like to do. I don't see R&M specific ones on any site... not even Cliffy's. If no one has done so already, I'll probably email him and ask what a custom set would run. In the mean time I'll probably just slap a little bit of mylar there.
I understand these aren't really needed for home use, but I am committed to bringing mine to the next few pinball shows if and when they happen. Shooter lane wear is one of the few things that annoy me.
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:#398 will be on the line this Thursday. Just in time for my birthday!
Mine (#373) was put on the line 2 weeks ago, so I'm guessing that means mine is shipping out Wednesday(ish). Yay!
#373 is on it's way! I am a bit annoyed I need to be home tomorrow receive delivery from the shipper... between 10:00 and 6:00 so I have to lose half a day of work, but that's not Spooky's fault. It's my first NIB and I'm excited! I should even get it before it rains agains so I can walk it down to my basement without having to wiat for mud to dry. In the mean time I'll try no to refresh the shipping update page... It's half way from Indiana to Maryland allready!
ship (resized).pngQuoted from MrCleanHead:I have been following this tread for awhile now and thinking about picking mine up from Spooky (I'm close to the end of the run so maybe I can get a tour and get some swag if Covid dies down by then). Its about a 8hr drive one way. I have done worse in the 90's for that 'rare' game. I have a 2017 outback and the newer sterns dont fit well, I have to ride with the hatch open about a foot. TNA fit, but it was close.
What is the average price for shipping anyways?
Spooky charged $290 for shipping from Wisconsin to Maryland.
#373 IS IN THE HOUSE... 1 year to the day after the teaser drop!
First NIB and a solid decision.
Loving it. I asked if the minions could sign the backbox and it looks like all of Spooky signed it for me. Sweet!
Only 5 games in, but tons of fun. Can't wait to turn on the adult language after the kids go to bed.
I am looking forward to being that crazy guy that brings a nice pin to a pinball show. I'm bringing this to free-play at Allentown or York if they go this year.
Thanks Spooky!
P.S. To those folks complaining about build quality and shot geometry, I don't see it. I got to play #49 in DC in February, and this one shoots better. Only complaint I have is the glass rattles out of the box, but that's an easy adjustment. Anyone local (Maryland) concerned about build quality is welcome to check it out, just PM me.
I'll have more feedback after I've had more than 5 games.
20201204_121511 (resized).jpg20201204_125214 (resized).jpgQuoted from Whysnow:Trick for pf glass rattling.
take a small ziptie, cut off and just use the zip part. Push that thin plastic piece between the plastic glass guide and the cab wood along the side of the cab in a few spots. it will hold tight with friction and give that plastic just a few bumps of snugness to hold the glass. Pretty much eliminates any glass rattle from bass.
Tried whyisnow's method. it 100% works.
Glass rattle 100% fixed for 5 cents in 5 minutes. 100% reversible and invisible to player.
Step 1. Get some zip ties.
Step 2. Cut end of zip tie to get thinnest part of zip tie. Various sizes can be used to various effect.
Step 3. Cut small slit between glass holder and wood where zip tie will be inserted.
Step 4. Wedge plastic zip tie in open spot.
Step 5. Completely push in.
Doesn't matter what color zip tie you use as you can't see it after installation. Glass is now more firmly wedged in and has no flex in the channel.
Glass rattle 100% removed even at movie theater sound commercial levels.
Good luck!
20201206_090032 (resized).jpg20201206_090044 (resized).jpg20201206_090142 (resized).jpg20201206_090222 (resized).jpg
Quoted from kermit24:So you need to do this every time the glass is removed?
Quoted from Fytr:That's what I was thinking originally, but it seems if you insert the zip plastic under the u-channel that holds the glass (between the u-channel and the cabinet), it should stay in place. This is a much more reasonable solution.
It stays in place and remains hidden.
Quoted from epthegeek:I still only have the white wood, but I turned both left and right down to 28.
We never saw pictures of the white wood. Care to share?
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:The zipties under the glass does work really well! I just installed some and no more glass rattle!!!
Yesterday I had installed the subwoofer spacer on my machine that someone else posted but that didn’t really help much on my machine. But no big deal it was relatively cheap and worth the try.
I just want to add on the zip tie trick... you don’t have to cut anything on the machine to add them but definitely you need to cut the large head off the zip tie end.
I just lifted the glass channel slightly with my fingertips/nails and wedged a total of 4 zip ties in underneath the glass. 2 on each side 1 towards the top and 1 towards the bottom.
****after posting this I turned my volume up to 7 and got a little rattle again. So I just added a couple more cut zip ties (total of 6 now, 3 on each side) and sounds great again. No rattle.
You will have to remove them and re-install them anytime you remove the glass but it just takes a minute to do.
It really works great though!!!
Here are some pics;
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Cool!
Putting the zip ties in the channel would work fine too.
If you don't want to have to reinstall them everytime you move the glass, there is a channel of rubber "glass holding material" running down the length of the cabinet glued to the top, that you slide the glass through. By cutting a small notch and inserting a much smaller piece of zip tie, it causes the rubber channel to torque slightly, and firmly grip the glass. Completely removable and invisible to the eye.
b588bc2dd61e45c666232b987d3c6a44d5038c85 (resized).jpgSuper enjoying the pin with only 1 regret on my build sheet.
I regret not ordering the coin door with the bill acceptor. Don’t get me wrong, the one it comes with is fine, but I really wish I had the coin door so I could add the external volume control and headphone jack. While there is an option to turn swearing on or off, the voice callouts are mostly not changed, but bleeped. I don’t feel comfortable playing this thing on full blast as intended next to my 4, 6, and 9 year old playing army men on the floor. There are still plenty of mother ****ers, sh**s, and f**ks. I fully understand not everyone needs family mode, but I do with I had gotten that version of the coin door so I could play during the day when they are around.
Only issue out of box was the top countdown display was out a digit. I emailed Spooky and they had a solution in my email box within 4 minutes. I had a loose ribbon cable, no biggie and it works perfect now.
I added zip ties under the playfield glass channel and it 100% fixed my glass rattle issues for about $.05
I have not modified my machine (other than purple flipper bats), but will start having fun modding it out over the next few weeks. I really like the purple rubbers and will probably go with that look along with a few cheesy playfield characters. Who am I kidding… I love cheesey character mods and plan on going full bore with this one. I see many meeseeks in my future.
I found the inner orbit shot to be extremely reliable on my late build machine (came off the factory floor 11/30). The only shot that is unreliable on mine is the garage shot. I will be doing the wood rail mod as discussed in this thread on https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/37#post-5552517. However, now that I have figured out the right orbit largely does the same thing excepting the super jackpot, I will be going that way. I will likely be installing the “no fear” flipper button disk as I have experienced a little bit of flipper flutter. That left ramp shot is also tight, but makeable.
My score has improved drastically since figuring out how to use the magna save. It acts very differently than the Williams one as you have to carefully time your release. The megaseeds and getting to alternate dimensions is also critical to a good score. My best is 30,000,000, but scores are rapidly improving (just got it).
I really hope we get some more modes soon. It was teased that Spooky had the rights to add new modes as new seasons came out, but I have not seen anything that I didn’t see 6 months ago when I got to play pre-covid, other than Meeseeks mania (not sure if new). As it is, to fill the card from 0 you will have to repeat a mode or two.
Overall, really enjoying the game. Build quality on everything seems great so far, and am really looking forward to a few new modes (hopefully) and enjoy haw differently the game shoots. I did not get the “butter cab”, but the quality on the decals on this seem to be much better than that on many other machines brands.
Thanks Spooky, keep it coming!
Code is live on their site! 2 new adventures, 1 of them available only on a full punchcard so we now have a "wizard mode" of sorts. Spooky just upped modes from 8 to 10... for free! Looking forward to (hopefully) more updates over time!
Quoted from docquest:So many new posts since I was last on. I thought new code came out with new modes or something but it's just more "rail-gate" LOL.
That mystery pic was actually mine from over a month ago that someone else scribbled a bunch if lines on.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/36#post-5549501
It all started when I was trying to see what I could do to make the inner loop shot less clunky. I noticed that the rail had a slotted end so I experimented with moving it all the up vs all the way down. Some were suggesting moving it all the way up to increase the curvature of the rail. I thought that was a very bad idea since it would let the ball hit the exposed metal rail edge and ding up the ball. Based on previous posts it sounds like some pinsiders are experiencing this.
Soon after this, Scott was on Kaneda's show explaining how to provide more flexibility to the rail guide by removing it's two middle tab screws. This helped but in my case it helped even more if I also increased curvature of the rail by moving the bottom mounting tab location just a little bit. Yes I (gasp!), made a new screw hole. I "drastically" and "radically" altered the rail guide position LOL.
[quoted image]
All three of the shots I adjusted (garage, inner loop, upper flipper) seem to follow the same pattern. If the rail follows the artwork on the playfield it shoots much better. Here's an example of my garage shot rail before and after. It shoots way smother when the rail follows the curve of the playfield art.
[quoted image]
I drilled my playfield and you should too. Bold statement I know.
It has been my experience with the stock game that the garage shot was almost unmakeable and tended to just bounce around in the curve instead of going into the garage unless hit flawlessly. I saw several guides on here on making alterations, and would suggest another slight nuance to the modifications others have suggested.
Like others, I removed the far left screw, loosened the wooden side rail, and tucked the tab underneath. This indeed made the shot easier. In addition to this, I left the center screw in place (some recommend removal) and pulled the right screw back a quarter inch or so, drilled a new hole, and re-attached the screw. With this in place I have found my Garage shot to be much more consistant and to work much better.
This aleteration is invisible from the players position, does not allow the rail to flex and scratch the playfield, and makes the game mroe enjoyable to me. Should I ever decide to sell the game and someone else does not like what I did, all the original screw holes are in place, and the new hole I made is hidden underneath the plastics. You cannot visually tell any change was made except when viewing from the head.
HOWEVER
The negative to this is that many balls that would have simply bounced around in that curve now make it ALMOST to the garage. If a ball maeks it almost to the garage, more often than not it drains down the shot, across the playfield, and into the right outlane. That magna save is critical if you miss the shop because there is no way to save it (without tilting) at my skill level.
Hope these photos help someone else and good luck!
20201213_091229 (resized).jpg20201213_091613 (resized).jpg20201213_091639 (resized).jpgR&M later builds (at least after #373) have a different inner loop configuration by default now. The middle screw is absent from the factory, as recommended by many others. This photo shows the unmolested configuration of my machine as seen stock from the factory delivered 12/4.
For those sticklers for stock machines you can remove that screw guilt free without "cheating". I have never had issues with my inner loop.
I did the other recommended adustments (Garage shot, diverter under house, and right u turn). All were fairly easy to excepting the garage shot.
After these changes the game is vastlly better than it was NIB/stock. It is flowier and those shots are much more makeable and shoot as intended. I got to Rick Potion #9 for the first time immediately after changes, and it's great! Contrast changes to screen make a world of difference too.
One other software change (that is cheating) I would recommend is to change the setting to allow true randomness in dimension settings, and to always alow the dimension change on the right orbit.
Your mileage may vary but all is good. Looking forward to dropping some purple titans and a few figures (Meeseks, megaseed trees, and noob noob) into my game this week. I love cheesey toys in games.
20201213_100301 (1) (resized).jpg20201213_100301 (resized).jpg20201214_055613 (resized).jpgQuoted from gac:The naked basketball rim was driving me crazy. Couple pics of the fix.
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Which figurines did you use?
Quoted from fnord:A couple questions.
I think I'm going to have to remove the head in my driveway in order to get it in my house and upstairs. Does the shipper contact you before delivery? If it's raining i'd obviously like to put off delivery a day. How hard is it to remove the head? I've only ever had older B/W which have all be really easy, any tricks I should know?
Spooky sent me a shipping tracking number. The shipper will bring it to a regional distribution center, in my case 45 minutes from my house. The shipper will call to arrange a 8 hour (yes 8 hour) delivery window... remember, they primarily do commercial deliveries. You can delay the delivery from the wharehouse up to a week without paying storage fees I believe.
Good luck!
Quoted from Backside_Slide:#465 checking in. I received my options sheet last Thursday. They are building about 15 a week. From reading what other have experienced, it’s about 3 weeks from options to shipped/received.
You should see an email any day now(depending upon closure for the holidays).
At 15 per week, that means that, despite being closed down for COVID for a time, SPOOKY is on track to meet their 18 month goal. Way to pull through SPOOKY! That would imply a new game announcement/trailer/pre-order sometime in May or June.
Just got my grand champ score! However, the computer seemed to glitch up a bit counting up megaseeds. Once they are worth 3 million or more it seems to freeze up a bit putting up your total at the end.
167,315,019
I immediately drained the extra ball after this.
About 50 million in love potion number 9 (finished it)!
Admittadly I've done a few modifications to my games (rail adjustments, garage shot, etc.) and increased the max times dimensions could be entered on the right orbit.
Quoted from rolandthoms:I love the demoralizing “loooooooser” callout when I don’t hit Jerry after meseeks mball. But the reward callout should be more substantial when I do. If I don’t look at screen, I’m often unaware that I hit Jerry.
You are supposed to hit Jerry?
1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from epthegeek:It's a software thing. The way I was dealing with the limitations I have to work with in software wasn't good enough. Gerry from Multimorphic pointed me in the right direction and the next public update will fix this.
More updates in the pipeline... Woot!
I think I win the award for weirdest place to lose the ball! I lost a ball under the playfield during play. In a multiball I saw 2 balls collide, one go airborne, and fly down the left side between the apron and the side rail. I never would have found it if I wasn't watching closely.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I think I win the award for weirdest place to lose the ball! I lost a ball under the playfield during play. In a multiball I saw 2 balls collide, one go airborne, and fly down the left side between the apron and the side rail. I never would have found it if I wasn't watching closely.
20210120_060948 (resized).jpg20210120_061044 (resized).jpg 1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from Pinstym:I grabbed a bunch of Rick and Morty stuff back when Toys R Us went under. Totally forgot about it till my kid found some pieces.
I normally wouldn't want anything Lego looking on the pf, but I think this kinda works with the Snowball robot deal. Kit came with a free mini plumbus too.
Looks like these are still available pretty cheap online if anyone is interested.
I just sat it in that spot for pics. Not sure yet if I'll stick it anywhere on the pf.
Apologies if this is has been posted previously.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Have you found the robot dog in the game yet?
Quoted from Jakers:Personally, I wouldn't remove the art blade. You'll never get it back on correctly and it'll eventually peel off since the adhesive will have been compromised.
Simply take the glass off and use a razor blade to trim the top portion off that's touching the glass.
I second this. Get a brand new "XACTO" knife from a hobby shop or razor blade from a hardware store. Go slow. Should take about 2 minutes to completely remove if done right. I have trimmed art blades before with these and the vinyl is easy to cut with a sharp blade. There should be a grove you can follow in the glass channel with your cut lines. See post 8565 to see what I mean by cutting channel to follow.
Fixed my flipper drop. I tried the "no fear" disk but it was too big and it didn't feel "right. Taped a 6 piece long flat lego brick to the plastic extender and it works perfectly. Had to adjust flipper switch a little but it was free and plays perfectly now.
20210216_153125 (resized).jpg20210216_153638 (resized).jpg20210216_154648 (resized).jpgIs there any way to increase the flipper hold strength on R&M? I have stiffened the right flipper button extender but the bottom flipper is still frequently knocked down with a hard ball return from the scoop. I love the game but feel robbed every time I get a drain from the flipper dropping while I am holding it. It seems to be getting worse over time.
6f97e6c7af4c270d430dae596f98fc77a52a4c2f (resized).jpgQuoted from Backside_Slide:In the settings under “coils” there will be a flipper hold strength adjustment. It follows the flipper coil strength(pulse) adjustment. Had to adjust mine as well, even after shaving the bushings down 1/8”.
I have not played with that adjustment at all and will check tonight. Thanks!
Quoted from Backside_Slide:In the settings under “coils” there will be a flipper hold strength adjustment. It follows the flipper coil strength(pulse) adjustment. Had to adjust mine as well, even after shaving the bushings down 1/8”.
Just did this and it made a huge difference! Changed from "medium" to "High" and its night and day. Thanks!
Quoted from jguzik420:you can also unlock the mystery prize and start it from the scoop via, Start Adventure.
My question, has anyone started Rick Potion No 9 through adventure scoop or only from ten stamps on the card?
Rick Potion number 9 can only be activated by filling the stamp card. It is supposed to be the Wizard mode.
I am really happy SPOOKY offers the swearing over-ride. My kids are 4,7, and 9. I wouldn't have bought the machine without the option. This weekend, when I traded my TNA the buyers wanted to check out Rick and Morty. I turned on the adult settings, but forgot to turn them off. Fast forward to the next day when my wife is doing laundry downstairs by the pins, and my 4 year old who hovers around her most of the time wants to play pinball. She turns on the machine, he picks out Rick and Morty, and immediately gets a ball stuck. 20 seconds later at max volume... HURRY THE F!@# UP!!! starts repeating. I'm in the dog house until I fix it. Thanks for the option SPOOKY.
Quoted from Alaskanzen:Build sheet for #665 just hit my inbox as well, for those keeping score.
Awesome!
Sounds like they are going to make their 18 month goal.
1 week later
The thread changed names again... Perhaps this means a new code drop with modes is imminent? Fingers crossed!
Quoted from rockrand:I bought two,First reply gets it!
[quoted image]
I'll take out of context posts for $500 please.
4 weeks later
Quoted from Steve44:I’ve lost my R+M...
I can’t get it to accept the latest update. Have tried 15 different USB sticks, 3.0’s, and all formatted.
Even tried downloading the update via different browsers. The CMOS battery is fine.
The March updated worked first time. Spooky are at a loss.. any clues/help gratefully received!
I need my R+M fix.. (even if it is cruel to me!)
Thanks!
Contact Spooky directly. They answered my NIB issues and had me up in running within 20 minutes of launching an email. They have someone who can deep dive this with you or, worst case scenario, send you a new board. Good luck! [email protected]
1 week later
Quoted from Beamer2007:Do you pay before or after the unit is built and ready to ship?
thx
To be fair I think I paid the balance due on mine about 3 weeks before it showed up at my door.
1 week later
Quoted from Murderface:Hey guys my Rick and Morty came today! First pin hoy it mostly set up but my keys don't seem to work in the back board, and I don't really understand how to get the playfield glass off I assumed it was accessible.through the coin door but have yet to figure it out.
There are 2 sets of keys. The one you have should open the coin door. Hanging on the inside of the coin door is another set that opens the backbox.
You remove the playfield glass by first removing the lockdown bar. The lockdown bar is removed by unhooking two clasps through the coinbox, then sliding the glass down.
Good luck!
Quoted from nogoodnames222:737 (standard) paid; I thought it was never going to happen.
Decided to run it at a friend's arcade for a bit as I'm going to be moving soon and it'll be fun to share with my friends + the community; things are finally feeling a bit more normal here in Portland. I know the general consensus is to play the game and then go from there, but is there anything preventative I should do in this case to make sure the game doesn't turn into a big headache for the location owner? Right now I was just planning on mylar around the flipper buttons (cause the cabinet decals seem to wear out incredibly fast...) and letting 'er ride.
Just a little concerned at the amount of grinding/welding/drilling going on in this thread, this late in production... but still very excited.
edit: does anyone have a picture of the decal wear on a routed BSE (in the holes of the portal lollipops)? just realized no mylar is available with a hole cut for the magnasave button... I'm debating skipping it, but don't want to end up with a bare white cabinet.
I only run my machine in my basement. The only "go grab the attendant" stuff I've dealt with (Dad help me, the ball is stuck) has to do with the Rick and Morty drops. If they are not perfectly flush with the playfield the ball can hangup there. There are adjustment screws underneath and its an easy fix, but something you want to get dialed in before it gets public loving.
Good luck!
1 week later
1 week later
I have seen content on this pin you have not even though your scores are better...
Hint, do a 1 ball reset (hold down the start button after a bad ball).
2 weeks later
With a new pin from Spooky being announced any day now, I wonder if we will be getting any more modes on Rick and Morty?
Quoted from Jherre6:Honest question.
Did Erik quit?
Wouldn’t blame him if he did.
I don't think so. I don't know this for a fact, but I was under the impression that the long pole in the tent on Rick and Morty code was licensor approval. I am under the impression they have a few more goodies ready for us, but are awaiting licensor approval. Licensors that were probably not expecting to have to approve new assets for years down the road.
Erik Rocks!
1 week later
Quoted from USMCSGT0331:Thank you for the info! I don't have a multimeter, so can't test it. I could probably swap the fuses around and see what happens. This is my first and only pinball machine, sooooo it's a learning process, lol. Going to Google search for some pinball machine fuses now!
If you want to test it now and have a piece of wire, a small LED, and a 9 volt battery, make a simple circuit to turn on the bulb. Verify bulb turns on. Insert fuse into circuit. If light bulb no longer works the fuse is blown.
1 week later
Quoted from Shapeshifter:Moving on and even as a non-owner, I am curious if only one more adventure could be added, what is a 'must have'?
Slut Dragon!
1 week later
Quoted from arzoo:I'm assuming the adult language has been set to zero
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It's on full f bomb mode. I put a parental warning sign on it.
329 plays on Rick and Morty in one day! Held up solid and glad I put mylar in the shooter lane before the Allentown show. 2 stuck balls in aftermarket toys I had to remove. Had to fix switch for flippers on right side and put in a new drop target spring but solid otherwise.
Anyone know the correct drop target spring size?
20210731_080434 (resized).jpg
It's there all day if you want to try it!
Rick and Morty torture test report:
Rick and Morty performed admirably at pinfest. Set up Thursday at 1, torn down Saturday at 8. During this time it got 519 plays. I cleaned it every morning, but in the entire time I only had 2 stuck balls, both on aftermarket toys. I also had to replace a drop target spring with an improvised on, and adjust the flpper gap buttons a little on the right side.
Talked to the Spooky guys there who will get me a new part for the flipper button based on the new ones on the Ultraman, and a new flipper drop coil spring.
Line was about 8 to 20 people deep the entire time.
I dropped some Mylar in the shooter lane day one, and other than the aftermarket Titan posts by the scoop being chewed up, I can't see any damage to the machine from the show.
Despite being played non-stop for 12 hours a day, there were no complaints about the ball not making it up the ramp or weak flippers. I installed new code right before I left.
Spooky's build quality and reliability here has been superb.
20210731_200133 (resized).jpg20210731_200346 (resized).jpgQuoted from WizardsCastle:What's the new part for the flipper button, and are they also getting you a different coil spring than default?
Not sure on the coil spring. I had issues with the flipper button parts previously. I will post what Spooky sends. Supposedly a new design. Will be better than my lego and electrical tape repair.
20210731_081646 (resized).jpgQuoted from megadeth2600:sataneatscheese I was standing there in a pool of my own blood and piss holding one of my kidneys in hopes we could make a trade. You never showed up. I would have called, but my vision got all wonky when I cut myself open to snag the organ and I couldn't see your number dammit.
Kidneys... with an s. That means 2, and a matching set at that.
Quoted from megadeth2600:sataneatscheese Oh. I ain't never been that good with those plurals you fancy people use.
My kid loved playing your R&M ... we have one here at home, but I think he liked showing off in public (he's also high functioning autistic ... he always seems to head for the machines we have here at home though he did a LOT better this year playing new stuff. I have the same problem he has whenever I see a BKSoR in public ... I will play it to death despite owning an LE
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That was incredibly gracious of you to bring that machine. I'm hoping I can bring mine to the York show. I am only going to ask for a lung + one fingernail that must be removed with a set of cheap-ass needle nose vice grips I have in my pinball toolset.
Just curious ... are you running flipper coil coolers on your R&M? It played AWESOME ... I played it both Friday and Saturday ... held up perfectly. I couldn't feel any difference in the flippers whenever I played.
Of course, as soon as I got home, I started having switch issues again. Seems they're cutting out here and there ... I'm pretty sure whoever assembled mine didn't crimp or use an IDC tool properly as I have had to fix many connectors on that machine over the past year). I'm half tempted to make a new wiring harness to clean up that rats nest under the playfield (that is my *only* complaint about Spooky ... I hate hot melt glue and I have this ridiculous, almost OCD-like obsession with making wiring/interconnect *perfect* looking. I can give them a pass since my expectations are borderline irrational ).
I still need to work on getting my loop *perfect* here at home after playing your machine. Thanks for adding more work to my list AND the senseless loss of one of my kidneys!
No fans. Stock cooling. Titan rubbers.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:No fans. Stock cooling. Titan rubbers.
I did update to latest code right before I left as well.
Quoted from DeathHimself:Sorry for all the questions as I don't have the machine just yet but I want to have it just right or at least the stuff to make it just right when it arrives in a week or so. With that being said I am looking at the shooter lane upgrade from PBL, Is it really needed and does it make a difference also which color looks best in the game purple or black. In addition to that and some extra ship hinges what else is needed for the game to be dialed in?
Thanks again in advance.
The game comes with clear rubbers and black posts. The one you played at pinfest had purple titan rubbers and purple posts. It had the stock shooter rod. To be honest I didn't know there was an upgraded one and have no idea what it would do. My extra toys were the noob noob target figure, a couple of meeseeks, and the Scary Terry figure. I picked up some speaker accents from Tilt at the show but have not installed them. If you want to play the game on movie theater sound commercial levels, buy some anti-rattle tape for the glass.
Over the course of manufacturing Spooky changed the shot geometry slightly on the inner loop and garage shot. I slightly modified mine, but wouldn't recommend messing with it until after 100 games or so if the garage shot isn't working right.
If it is a NIB pin, I would recommend dropping a little piece of Mylar cut to shape with an exacto knife in the shooter lane if you are picky. The portal gun covers it up, and if you put some in you'd never know it was there.
Have fun!
Quoted from damadczar:Speaking of shooting lane wireform malfunction.... does anyone have the ball not make up all the way up the shooting lane a few times a game?
It kinda drives me nuts. Is it just the coil misaligned you think? it works most of the time, just occasionally either doesn't have the power or drags too much. Not sure which?
You know you can adjust the coil strength on that in the settings... Messed with mine about 2 minutes the day I got it and now it works perfectly.
Quoted from DeathHimself:So hopefully the good thing is we at least have two more modes that will be getting added. If the rights part is true or semi true I'm sure Spooky maybe working with the new holders to add some additional content at some point unless the game code is near complete which I have no clue as I haven't played one long enough.
After seeing the line for Rick and Morty at Allentown in person, Spooky is going to add more features to the game to make it even better and even more desirable? Wow...
We are now up to 10 want ads for Rick and Morty with none for sale. With no more of these ever being made per Spooky, and production just having stopped, when will we see peak prices on these? Last one for sale used is pending at 10,500 without butter. I'm not selling mine, but it was interesting how many people tried to buy this off me at Allentown even with a big NFS sign on it and the price field labeled as "Kidneys".
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I drilled my playfield and you should too. Bold statement I know.
It has been my experience with the stock game that the garage shot was almost unmakeable and tended to just bounce around in the curve instead of going into the garage unless hit flawlessly. I saw several guides on here on making alterations, and would suggest another slight nuance to the modifications others have suggested.
Like others, I removed the far left screw, loosened the wooden side rail, and tucked the tab underneath. This indeed made the shot easier. In addition to this, I left the center screw in place (some recommend removal) and pulled the right screw back a quarter inch or so, drilled a new hole, and re-attached the screw. With this in place I have found my Garage shot to be much more consistant and to work much better.
This aleteration is invisible from the players position, does not allow the rail to flex and scratch the playfield, and makes the game mroe enjoyable to me. Should I ever decide to sell the game and someone else does not like what I did, all the original screw holes are in place, and the new hole I made is hidden underneath the plastics. You cannot visually tell any change was made except when viewing from the head.
HOWEVER
The negative to this is that many balls that would have simply bounced around in that curve now make it ALMOST to the garage. If a ball maeks it almost to the garage, more often than not it drains down the shot, across the playfield, and into the right outlane. That magna save is critical if you miss the shop because there is no way to save it (without tilting) at my skill level.
Hope these photos help someone else and good luck!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Since you guys are talking about drilling playfields again, here are pictures of the very minor alteration I made to mine. This was how it was set up at Pinfest.
Quoted from Gorgar123:Do you have a pic that shows the location of the two holes without the rail and screw installed?
All the pictures I still have can be seen by scrolling through here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club?tu=sataneatscheese#op
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Maybe I would sell mine for 20K?
Nahhhh!
Love this game!
I have GNR and I just got the Mandalorian but I still play Rick and Morty a lot.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:In the 8 months since I got R&M, I rarely play any of my other games any more.
Man I still play all of mine. They get traded when they get stale. ST:TNG is the only one that gets close for me, and my LOTR is a completely different player than Rick and Morty. There are a handful of other super fast games that give a feeling similar to Rick and Morty, but not the same. Total Nuclear Annihilation, Torpedo Alley.
I have a whole new level of appreciation for Rick and Morty after watching a line over 20 deep form to play my Rick and Morty at Pinfest.
Quoted from BowlingJim:Just got a cheapie 3d printer so I am learning how to print. I made these for my game I know they are not perfect as I am learning but I think they look pretty good.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Mr. Poopy butthole on the railing is the best one.
Quoted from Hench4Life:Update wiped my scores and settings... I think I remember seeing a post about how to save that stuff, but it’s to late for me..
Looks like I’m gonna have to put in some long hours to fill it back up
When you update your machine, it automatically dumps your old settings and high scores onto the USB stick. If you pop that USB stick into a computer it will have an easily readable TXT file with high scores and audits.
I am against the idea of DLC and there are some serious issues Spooky would have implementing it. Yes, they could charge for game code updates but how do they control distribution? There is no way to prevent someone from paying for it and then sharing it with someone else. The only thing I can think of would be if there was an extra physical feature that could be tacked on to the machine, like a dancing animated pickle rick or slut dragon that would be detected with the machine and only activate new code when present.
I am against both concepts, but a physical toy would make the cost a little easier pill to swallow.
But why would Spooky do this? They are not going to make much off of this and if they start charging for new things they are going to have to get licensing wrapped up into it again which means another cut to them.
Also, Spooky should be doing everything they can to divert attention away from Rick and Morty and towards their new machines. I brought Rick and Morty to Pinfest the same day Ultraman was on freeplay and open to the world for the first time. The line for Rick and Morty was far longer throughout the day than it was for Ultraman every day, although admittedly Ultraman was on 1 ball games.
Spooky should be focusing on their new machines from a marketing perspective. Maybe they could get some good press releasing new modes for Rick and Morty showing that they support games for years down the road which would discourage resale on their pins, pushing up prices/demand on new ones. As soon as they start selling code, people will start wondering what is being held back on games and how they are going to be pumped for every nickel and dime going forward.
I think Spooky has hit a sweet spot with a limited run of games in high demand that keeps their line busy, and selling code is not going to create the FOMO that is currently driving their business model.
Also... A SLUT DRAGON MODE WOULD BE AWESOME!
Stay awesome Spooky.
1 month later
I finally got the new flipper bushings installed on my Rick and Morty and all I can say is wow what a pain to install! Finally got the flippers lined back up and everything tightened back down. I never really had any issues with making it up the ramps and I guess the flippers are a little stronger now, but I don't think I can really tell a difference. Mine ran for 3 days straight at Pinfest without any flipper weakness issues, but I guess it is future proofed now. Still a great game! Hoping for one or two more modes before everything is done. Notice in my May update code there are a few new dimensions. I like simple music mode!
1 week later
Quoted from dudah:Whitewood up on FB Marketplace
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/389571945913410
[quoted image]
O man. I'd be tempted to switch out my production model for the whitewood. What a cool piece!
3 weeks later
I think Spooky has several new modes in the bag, but are running into licensing review issues. We may or may not see them.
Anyone having issues with the drop targets on theirs's? My right drop target is not catching balls like it is supposed to. The right down switch works when depressed manually in test, but does not register in the drop target cycle as going down. I'm going back and forth with Spooky as well and hopefully they will help. Any and all help greatly appreciated. I don't even know where to start.
Quoted from Morgoth00:Seen this drop target discussed alot. Here are some things to try-
Check to see if the return spring was hyperextended and is flipping around.
Make sure the brass finger is close, but not touching the target when at rest and the drop target is up. If you are adjusted properly, then raise the pulse of the knockdown coil in the settings a bit.
Thank you for the ideas. I changed out the spring, but had other problems afterwards and returned to the original (one I had gotten as a replacement directly from Spooky support.). As of this morning, I think I may have corrected the issue, but will see if it continues to work after a few days. For anyone reading this years down the line with similar issues, what I found was that adjusting the switch that is triggered in the down position may have solved the issue. To do this, I loosened the screws holding down the switch and adjusted it so the drop had to be slightly further down to trigger the switch, and then re-tightened. This is working for the moment. If it is still working in a week I will call it solved.
My machine has been rock solid with the exception of these drop target mechs and the springs. Some re-engineering desperately needs to be done on these to make them slightly more tollerant to variables.
Otherwise, nothing but smiles and happy vibes coming from this machine.
1 week later
Quoted from 27dnast:What are you basing this on?
In reference to, "I think Spooky has several new modes in the bag, but are running into licensing review issues. We may or may not see them." it is 100% speculation. Pinball is a weird animal when it comes to licensing. Usually licensing approval is a one and done thing. They are talking about coming to the licensor year(s) after the game is released and asking permission to use more/different clips in different ways. They can't say, "we're good and have stuff ready but Disney/Cartoon Network won't let us use it" or something along those lines as it would ruin their ability for future licensing opportunities with other companies. I think Spooky has a few new modes up their sleeve but are waiting for a good time to get approval to release them. Maybe they are saving a few up to bug the licensor less. Maybe the licensor said they would look at them for $50,000. I don't know. There were several comments early from Spooky about getting permission to reveal things like the playfield, and the programmer has been dodgy about announcing if modes are done for sure or not. I have my fingers crossed.
1 week later
Quoted from pinballM:how do you explain that there are 9 rick & morty for sale in the ads? is the game really good? i wonder? are there any quality issues?
i would like to buy one but i have had no success with the sellers
The cheapest one listed is for sale for what... 11k? The original owner paid 8k for it last year. So the least amount someone is willing to sell it for is 37.5% more than they paid for it? G&R isn't doing that. Heck, NIB Godzilla LE's are not doing that... and the price is still creeping up on these. It may not get there for some time but is on its way to JJP POTC status in terms of being unobtanium but highly desirable.
R&M... a pivitoal part of any Pinball Machine investment portfolio...
Quoted from insight75:I have both. I wouldn't say one is better than the other. Both are hard to walk away from but quite challenging. Different experience on both. I would recommend getting some time in on both on location before pulling the trigger. I played R&M at the Allentown show (thank you to that amazing pinsider who brought it) and knew I needed one after playing.
You're welcome!
1 week later
2 months later
Quoted from Lounge:The flipper issues were very real - even after the bushings were trimmed and the EOS adjusted. It’s 90% of the user interaction and pretty important to get right. It wasn’t right and it did get fixed. I wouldn’t characterize that time as ‘wasted.’
Code expansion…. not going to happen via Eric or anyone else.
Yeah... I'm not picky and even I noticed it. It is one thing if the ball doesn't make it down the ramp and rolls SDTM. It is another thing if you catch the ball with the tip of your flipper but the flipper strength doesn't hold and the ball goes SDTM. That's robbery!
Luckily they fixed it and R&M is awesome!
1 week later
Quoted from FatPanda:Holy crap, these are going for $250+ now? I've got about 7-8 of them, one for each of my games. I didn't pay more than $60 for most of them used. I think I paid $100 for one brand new one. Glad I got them when I did!
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:I guess these are cheaper in the states. I just ordered one for another one of my machines and it was only 150 bucks. And, I’ll have it by the time I get home tonight! Amazon is ridiculous with their shipping! [quoted image]
Quoted from FatPanda:Doh! Didn't notice it was a Canada Amazon link. You Canadians...
I bought these Sony model subwoofers for my pins https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-core-series-10-115w-active-subwoofer-black/5721005.p?skuId=5721005 . $115 at Best Buy. Open box are generally under $100 if you can find one near you. Also, if you are impatient (like me) you can just walk in and pick one up.
Quoted from PlanetExpress:Joined the club this weekend…. Butter cab and all the options… added VooDoo Glass and an external sub (no more glass rattle):[quoted image]
That is an ideal lineup to me. 4 games, 4 eras, 4 designers, 4 manufacturers, Ritchie, Lawlor, Danesi... Rick and Morty is a beaty.
1 month later
I've discovered why the Rick and Morty pinball machine is so good. Rick within the game is self aware and knows that the continued existence of himself and everyone he knows depends on being entertaining. Therefore, every time you fire up the machine he does his very best to entertain you, as if his life depended on it. Rickbot will keep his circuits activated just for you.
1 week later
Quoted from tdiddy:What's the deal with butter cabinets?
Butter cabinets are a factory option from Spooky. It is a direct print cabinet with clear coat on top. It is beautiful, but a $1,000 option and is subject to scratching/scuffing more so than plain decals.
As to the BSE edition, the idea was for an extra $500 or so, starting with Rick and Morty your pin would get the powdercoat and flipper protectors, and be first off of the line. Result was that for Rick and Morty, 720ish of the 750 were Blood Suckers Edition.
Edit to change it to 720ish Blood Sucker Editions. I have no idea how many butter cabinets were made but not 720... Probably 80.
1 week later
Honestly, I was surprised that Spooky did not release a new mode or some new content right before the Ultraman/Halloween pins came out as this would have given the impression that their next line of games would have been supported a few years down the line. Looks like they didn't need the help selling out initially anyways... although that will likely change on their next title based off of the current reception on Ultraman/Haloween.
1 month later
Quoted from beltking:Anyone have major issues with Rick and Morty? Friend of mine got the new Halloween and said it was nothing but problems and kept breaking and shutting down mid game. Spooky just kept saying they were a small family business and didn't give much help so he said. Got me nervous about getting my rick and Morty pin.
I had my Rick and Morty for 18 months and put about 3,000 games on it including taking it to Pinfest for 3 non-stop days of play. The game itself was rock solid. The only issue I had was one of the springs on a drop target broke and it was hard to get a replacement dialed in just right. It crashed one time when I got over 35 mega-seeds on a fluke.
Quoted from pinballM:Did you install fans on the flipper coils? and did you get broken plastics after 3000 games? the ball speed is just crazy
Never put in fans. Mine did fine in 3 days of nonstop play at Allentown pinfest... twice.
The only broken plastic I had doesn't count as it was really a broken mod... But I needed Noob Noob!
1 month later
I sold my Rick and Morty after more than a year and thousands of plays between myself and pinball shows because someone offered me 50% more than I paid for it. Not dissapointed in it in any way.
I'd pitch making some basic Spooky Pinball licensed assets that could be re-used across machines that Spooky owns in every way shape and form. A Spooky mascot cartoon that could be reused across pins over time. Maybe a mode based on the Spooky dimension where Rick and Morty turn into ghosts and play pinball. Their voice changes and it is never directly referred that Rick and Morty are now these actual ghosts. There cold be a theme of death across all pins where you can die and go into Spooky pergatory. Assets could be reused in Halloween, Ultraman, Alice Cooper... Just a thought.
Also, since epthegeek and
TheNoTrashCougar are here... I know you guys have more projects and ideas than you could possibly do but you know what I think would be a the top of the list of cool crap to play you could do? Pinbot 2.0. I think a Pinbot with it's current layouts but the inserts replaced with clear ones with multicolor LEDs and and Arundo light on the ramp would be the coolest thing ever to blast out to with new rules and a bitch'n techno track.
But back to the game at hand, you guys did a great job. Thanks for the fun!
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