(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

1 year ago


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#9351 11 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

I received my R&M about a month ago, had issues with flippers like most people but last night the POP BUMPER stopped working. Nothing happens when ball hits it. Can anyone offer any advice on this? I'm a newbie, not a techie so please "walk me through it", if need be. Thanks!

Nuts fell off the plunger beneath probably, because they put 3 washers on there for some weird reason which undermines the nylok nuts ability to do the "lok" thing, because no thread left. Look under playfield to see if anything looks broken or loose to start with. At about 2 weeks mine fell apart and became a dead-pop dimension 24/7 lol

Same thing happened with my TNA and RaM.

Ditch 2 washers, keep one, put it back together.

**Or what MikeS said below there.

#9352 11 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

I received my R&M about a month ago, had issues with flippers like most people but last night the POP BUMPER stopped working. Nothing happens when ball hits it. Can anyone offer any advice on this? I'm a newbie, not a techie so please "walk me through it", if need be. Thanks!

Check both the switch gap and the wires going to the coil lugs. I had one of my wires come off the coil and had to resolder it back on.

#9353 11 months ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Check both the switch gap and the wires going to the coil lugs. I had one of my wires come off the coil and had to resolder it back on.

What is a switch gap? What are coil lugs?

#9354 11 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

What is a switch gap? What are coil lugs?

I'd suggest have a visual of the underside of your Pop Bumper... then report back here with whatever you find. You will be able to reference the parts that are being described here.

**Lockbar off, glass out, lift out playfield onto service rails... you should be able to get a good eyeball on the underside of the pop mech then.

Nuts come loose - Two small nuts that hold the bumper ring to the coil plunger. The plunger will drop and cease making any real sound, even if energising.

Bad Switch adjustment - In the core of the Pop (under) there is a Leaf Switch to trigger it, looks a bit like the switch for the flipper buttons inside the cabinet, except its Inside the Pop mechanism.

Coil Luggs - Just the base of the actual coil, where the 2 wires are supposed to be soldered on to the coil, they can break off and then bumper no worky!

*if you still struggle, take some pics and post here of underside of pop, once you get the playfield up on the rails, lifted out.

#9355 11 months ago

All these awesome scores you guys are putting up,
and I still can't beat 35mill
Must. Play. Better.

#9356 11 months ago
Quoted from FuryosJustin:

All these awesome scores you guys are putting up,
and I still can't beat 35mill
Must. Play. Better.

The default GC score that came with mine is 92Mil, one of the playtesters must have had a good game. Still can't touch it, and have had the game for 3 months...This game is legit challenging, but feels SO GOOD when you get it going.

11
#9358 11 months ago
Quoted from djsoup:

Time to get Rickety-Wrecked Son!! I just got the email from Squirrel that they are building my game!! I'm so excited!

#397 arrived! Thank you Spooky Santa for making this holiday extra special. A very Merry Rickmas to all!

rickmas (resized).jpg
#9359 11 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

You tried entering the menu in the ending of every other adventure?
The lighting thing is intended operation. The default for skillshot lighting was changed many builds ago; it just adds the skillshot indication to the existing playfield state unless you enable the skillshot highlight setting.

I would say chances are very likely I've restarted in every mode many times. I've ended a LOT of games, probably at least 1/2 of what I've started.

The top left drop should be lit? What state is that indicating? I'm still figuring out a lot of the little intricacies of the code (like I just noticed the Cromulon voting shots) so maybe I just don't know what that means.

- Edit, just had a similar thing happen. Again, maybe it's intended but I can't see why. Start Adventure light was lit purple when PotP mode just started. I hit the scoop several times to see if I could get anything from it (never have noticed it lit before) and nothing, just spits the ball back out. This was during the timeout when just the left and right ramps were lit to spell PotP.

OH WOW... I just noticed what it was saying on the status/info screen while I was taking that photo. It's indicating Scary Terry but I am 100% positive it was PotP. I don't think those 3 purple shots match up with the roving ST mode anyhow, but sure looks like there is some overlapping of what game mode is being tracked.

pasted_image (resized).png

#9360 11 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Looking at the pic, it seems like my left flipper (right in picture) is not exactly parallel to the pf. Hmmm, this would have to be something with the mounting plate below. Or maybe it's just a shadow in the pic? Not gonna worry about it
[quoted image][quoted image]

Mine is even worse than that, the tip of the left flipper is about 5mm higher than the base of the flipper. It's always bugged me, but I never got around to fixing it. Now the new bushings are coming I'll sort it out when fitting them.

#9361 11 months ago
Quoted from lapean111:

The default GC score that came with mine is 92Mil, one of the playtesters must have had a good game. Still can't touch it, and have had the game for 3 months...This game is legit challenging, but feels SO GOOD when you get it going.

Yea, great rush when you get in the zone, then collect heaps of mega seeds, I've had a 28mill ball before, so that big game ain't far away, just gotta string a couple of good ones together

I don't mind when it kicks my ass, as I know it treats everyone mean

#9362 11 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Mine is even worse than that, the tip of the left flipper is about 5mm higher than the base of the flipper. It's always bugged me, but I never got around to fixing it. Now the new bushings are coming I'll sort it out when fitting them.

I tried to figure it out, btw and gave up. I even took the apron off to help see what was going on. My "lift" isn't much, so I'm not that concerned. It is interesting that several of us have this. Keep us posted if you figure it out...

IMG_2996 (resized).jpeg
#9363 11 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Keep us posted if you figure it out...

That would have to be the feet on the flipper mounting bracket not being square to the PF, no?

All things being equal...gotta be those mounting tabs / feet that are screwed to the underside of the PF.

Unless the Flipper Bushing collar isn't uniform thickness? Maybe try rotating the bushings if you are in there...if that doesn't change the angle, it has to be the bracket assembly.

#9364 11 months ago
Quoted from guitarded:

That would have to be the feet on the flipper mounting bracket not being square to the PF, no?
All things being equal...gotta be those mounting tabs / feet that are screwed to the underside of the PF.
Unless the Flipper Bushing collar isn't uniform thickness? Maybe try rotating the bushings if you are in there...if that doesn't change the angle, it has to be the bracket assembly.

I suspect the bracket assembly, but it's odd several of us are seeing it (guess it could be a bad batch...?). No doubt the shaved bushing might be off a tad, but I had this issue with the stock bushings as well (which are uniform).

I should have looked more closely when I had the bracket off...oh well.

#9365 11 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I suspect the bracket assembly, but it's odd several of us are seeing it (guess it could be a bad batch...?). No doubt the shaved bushing might be off a tad, but I had this issue with the stock bushings as well (which are uniform).
I should have looked more closely when I had the bracket off...oh well.

Entirely possible and the only explanation I can come up with. The flipper bracket feet are not being bent precisely.

Seems all these issues stem from a root cause of parts manufacturing. Makes sense why we are seeing some issues across multiple game manufacturers. Also makes sense why the variances come and go with batches of parts.

#9366 11 months ago

Just an idea about the flipper not sitting level with the playfield: I recently bought a Stern IMDN, and the left lower flipper was noticeably out of level with the playfield. The tip was almost dragging. I went nuts looking for the cause, completely disassembling the flipper assembly to no avail. It turns out a large drop of clear dripped down into the playfield's left flipper bushing hole and dried. This drip would push the flipper bushing out of alignment each time I tightened the flipper assembly. I cut the dried drip out of the bushing hole, and viola!!! Leveled the flipper perfectly.

#9367 11 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I would say chances are very likely I've restarted in every mode many times. I've ended a LOT of games, probably at least 1/2 of what I've started.
The top left drop should be lit? What state is that indicating? I'm still figuring out a lot of the little intricacies of the code (like I just noticed the Cromulon voting shots) so maybe I just don't know what that means.
- Edit, just had a similar thing happen. Again, maybe it's intended but I can't see why. Start Adventure light was lit purple when PotP mode just started. I hit the scoop several times to see if I could get anything from it (never have noticed it lit before) and nothing, just spits the ball back out. This was during the timeout when just the left and right ramps were lit to spell PotP.
OH WOW... I just noticed what it was saying on the status/info screen while I was taking that photo. It's indicating Scary Terry but I am 100% positive it was PotP. I don't think those 3 purple shots match up with the roving ST mode anyhow, but sure looks like there is some overlapping of what game mode is being tracked.
[quoted image]

It's just Rick fuc#ing with us simple Mortys

...

Yep there's quite a bit to go still, but it is Definitely ever improving!

Great stuff EP! ... love the easter eggs that pop up too!!!

Scott, Bunyip, and Spooky... this is the most satisfying pin I have Ever Played, let alone owned!

Xmas day here, 39c outside, been playing 2.5 hours straight and everyone loves it to bits!!... time for lunch bitches! Lol

Merry Christmas All!

#9368 11 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I tried to figure it out, btw and gave up. I even took the apron off to help see what was going on. My "lift" isn't much, so I'm not that concerned. It is interesting that several of us have this. Keep us posted if you figure it out...
[quoted image]

Is the corner of the flipper plate (at the extreme left) mounted on top of the edge of the black printed spacer for the P-roc switch board?

Is the edge of the black spacer jammed between the flipper plate and the playfield there? . Mine is hard up touching each other there. That would kinda match the misalignment you have as well.

If not I'd be looking at how the bush is in relation to the flipper plate. May have debris under mounting flange or a burr, even may be damaged/distorted or something. That is a very large amount for a flipper plate to be out of spec. It's more than a millimeter, which would stand out like a sore thumb to look at from underside.

Others have had flipper plates mounted with other parts sandwiched between plate and playfield, so it is worth checking for that thoroughly. There are a few spots it can potentially happen, another game had right flipper mech with ball save spacer sandwiched between.

#9369 11 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Is the corner of the flipper plate (at the extreme left) mounted on top of the edge of the black printed spacer for the P-roc switch board?
Is the edge of the black spacer jammed between the flipper plate and the playfield there? . Mine is hard up touching each other there. That would kinda match the misalignment you have as well.
If not I'd be looking at how the bush is in relation to the flipper plate. May have debris under mounting flange or a burr, even may be damaged/distorted or something. That is a very large amount for a flipper plate to be out of spec. It's more than a millimeter, which would stand out like a sore thumb to look at from underside.
Others have had flipper plates mounted with other parts sandwiched between plate and playfield, so it is worth checking for that thoroughly. There are a few spots it can potentially happen, another game had right flipper mech with ball save spacer sandwiched between.

There are no obstructions since I took the flipper mech off entirely to lower the bushings.

Out of the box, I had the right flipper obstructed by the display, but I fixed that before dealing with the bushings (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/180#post-6015874).

#9370 11 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

There are no obstructions since I took the flipper mech off entirely to lower the bushings.
Out of the box, I had the right flipper obstructed by the display, but I fixed that before dealing with the bushings (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/180#post-6015874).

Maybe one of the bushing screw threads has a bur on it or something, skewing it?

Can you see if the bushing is mounted nice and flush on the flipper plate?

#9371 11 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Maybe one of the bushing screw threads has a bur on it or something, skewing it?
Can you see if the bushing is mounted nice and flush on the flipper plate?

When Spooky distributes the official lowered bushings, I'll dig into this again and double check everything you (and others) have mentioned.

For now, I'm more interested in playing than "dialing in", and the flippers have improved dramatically over the past week or so (so I'm good for now).

Thanks for the help!

10
#9372 11 months ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Because you are apparently too stupid to set it in place (try some BlueTack, or set it inside a small washer) for a photograph that you can post online to accompany your whinging bitchfest.
I gave you a solution. Either fix it or don't. Buy stop whining.

I just reread your obnoxious post from last week (which was "moderated" to "be nice").

My "whining" is what led to Spooky/Charlie agreeing to fix the flipper bushings for all it's customers.

I don't need your approval or "pat on the back", but your rude post is highly objectionable. Fortunately, others downvoted the post appropriately.

Please treat people with the respect they deserve. I've been a productive member of Pinside for over 8 years, I don't need a relative new comer telling me I'm stupid.

#9373 11 months ago

Thanks to xfassa I got my Ship Crystals Mod in the post this week!

Been recording some games today, picked out something that lasted more than 2 minutes Lol

The ship looks Great!! Love the mod it fits in very well!

Always happy to get to replay, especially when Morty is half as tanked as Rick on a Christmas night! Lol

16
#9374 11 months ago
IMG9502411_0.jpg
#9375 11 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Thanks to xfassa I got my Ship Crystals Mod!
Been recording some games today, picked out something that lasted more than 2 minutes Lol
The ship looks Great!! Love the mod it fits in very well!

Always happy to get to replay, especially when Morty is half as tanked as Rick on a Christmas night! Lol

Nice game, you were really putting some shots together, which is more impressive given how you were shooting on the fly. I think your username is appropriate!

#9376 11 months ago
Quoted from o-din:

Another thing I did is I replaced the flipper bushings with the older Bally style as they are longer on the bottom and allow for a more accurate adjustment of the flipper while keeping the plunger centered. I have done this on several games with later Williams flippers as I think there might be variations in the brackets that hold the coils ,
[quoted image]

Quoted from o-din:

Been reading about this "flippergate" and now feel somewhat responsible. lol.
Yes, I did have to swap out the bushings to the longer Bally ones to keep them from binding. But, it was later my finding that the bushings that came with the game were probably correct and that it was perhaps the brackets that hold the coils that caused them to sit lower than they should.
Not the first time I had to do this as I have had other Williams games where I had to do the same, and others where I did not. Not sure if due to replacement flipper mechs, or slight variations in the bracketry from game to game.
And, to be clear, it was not a problem with the top of the bushing protruding through the playfield as that is the same with either bushing, but the bottom of the bushing that affects plunger alignment.

Quoted from o-din:

The more I look at the pics snaroff posted, the more I am convinced this is some kind of issue with bracket or mounting plate variations, which in some cases a different bushing can compensate.
As far as the bushing sticking too far up through the playfield, if it is the correct bushing, in this case it has to be the mounting plate itself if all playfields are the same thickness.

Quoted from snaroff:

I suspect the bracket assembly, but it's odd several of us are seeing it (guess it could be a bad batch...?). No doubt the shaved bushing might be off a tad, but I had this issue with the stock bushings as well (which are uniform).

Quoted from Whysnow:

Entirely possible and the only explanation I can come up with. The flipper bracket feet are not being bent precisely.
Seems all these issues stem from a root cause of parts manufacturing. Makes sense why we are seeing some issues across multiple game manufacturers. Also makes sense why the variances come and go with batches of parts.

So the flipper coil bracket might be the issue that some people are having. Is there any way to confirm whether a bracket is out of spec?

-16
#9377 11 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

My "whining" is what led to Spooky/Charlie agreeing to fix the flipper bushings for all it's customers.

I don't need your approval or "pat on the back", but your rude post is highly objectionable. Fortunately, others downvoted the post appropriately.

You are still doing it. Haven't really stopped, yet...

Maybe it is just a personality flaw? Anyway, Merry Christams and maybe work on that in the coming year?

#9378 11 months ago
Quoted from RobT:

So the flipper coil bracket might be the issue that some people are having. Is there any way to confirm whether a bracket is out of spec?

I think it's unlikely the bushings or brackets are out of spec. My right flipper was installed improperly (over the display) and all my flippers were too high (lowering the bushings solves it). My issue with the left flipper could be the bracket, but I doubt it. Rum-Z's comment about he clearcoat was eye opening!

Here is an excerpt from one of o-dins posts you forwarded: "in this case it has to be the mounting plate itself if all playfields are the same thickness."

We determined the RAM PF isn't the same thickness as classic B/W PF's...which the mounting plate and bushing were originally designed for.

Quoted from guitarded:

You are still doing it. Haven't really stopped, yet...
Maybe it is just a personality flaw? Anyway, Merry Christams and maybe work on that in the coming year?

No flaw...no work necessary! You have some kind of axe to grind...guess you like being a keyboard warrior from some "unknown" place with 0 feedback.

-10
#9379 11 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

No flaw...no work, necessary! You have some kind of axe to grind...guess you like being a keyboard warrior from some "unknown" place with 0 feedback.

That's cool, brah.
Glad you decided to follow my advice and ground / sanded them down finally.

Hasn't helped with your whining - but it has improved your game performance, so we'll call that a win.
Thanks for all you do, brah.

#9380 11 months ago
Quoted from guitarded:

That's cool, brah.
Glad you decided to follow my advice and ground them down finally.
Hasn't helped with your whining - but it has improved your game performance, so we'll call that a win.
Thanks for all you do, brah.

Now, I'm whining about a totally different problem, but I guess you have reading comprehension issues.

The bushing issue was solved days ago and your advice didn't help one bit. I only take advice from people I know/respect...have no idea who you are.

Pinside is a place for airing/solving problems (which apparently disturbs you). Tough.

12
#9381 11 months ago
569B0292-62DC-43DC-ACFB-71D42635643F (resized).jpeg
#9382 11 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I tried to figure it out, btw and gave up. I even took the apron off to help see what was going on. My "lift" isn't much, so I'm not that concerned. It is interesting that several of us have this. Keep us posted if you figure it out...
[quoted image]

Try another flipper bat or move the left to right an see what happens. Flipper bats tends to vary in trailing angle.

#9383 11 months ago
Quoted from RobT:

So the flipper coil bracket might be the issue that some people are having. Is there any way to confirm whether a bracket is out of spec?

The bracket is “in spec “ so to speak. The question is where is the variance of that spec coming from.

Best way to figure it out is to bust out the calipers and start comparing L and R brackets. Without looking I will guess that one foot (where it screws to pf) is not bent precisely at 90degrees. The result is that this causes one plate base to site slightly closer to bottom of pf than other.

12
#9384 11 months ago

Merry Rickmas m*ther f*ckers!

Stop being Jerrys and have a good f*cking holiday!

20201225_154741 (resized).jpg

#9385 11 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

The bracket is “in spec “ so to speak. The question is where is the variance of that spec coming from.
Best way to figure it out is to bust out the calipers and start comparing L and R brackets. Without looking I will guess that one foot (where it screws to pf) is not bent precisely at 90degrees. The result is that this causes one plate base to site slightly closer to bottom of pf than other.

The amount out of whack in the pic is way too much to be the foot of a plate, it would have to be well over 1/16" out (because the plate has such a Wide footprint of course), which certainly would never be within the plates spec. Also then, it would be highly noticeable to the bare eye.

Bush is crooked/out of whack/misaligned for some reason, or, bat is not square. As Returner said, swapping bats will tell you more.

But also observing change over the sweep range would indicate where the fault is. Distance from flipper tip, to playfield, at each end of the sweep.

If the misalignment Stays the Same through the sweep (distance from flipper tip to playfield at Each End of the Stroke), then it is the Bat not being square to it's shaft (nor the playfield).

If the misalignment Changes through the sweep, then the Bush is not square to the playfield, for whatever reason.

It is more likely to be a small fault closer to the pivoting point than a large fault a long way from the pivot (counting out sandwiched mounting plastics). Which is why I suggest the bush flange, looking for a minor misalignment that is getting amplified where it presents visibly at the extent of the flipper tip. Bad bush with moulding flash, or a burr on the plate... doesn't take much at that closer area.

#9386 11 months ago
Quoted from RobT:Nice game, you were really putting some shots together, which is more impressive given how you were shooting on the fly. I think your username is appropriate!

I liked the lazarus off the back of the left flipper at 3:25 Lol

#9387 11 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I liked the lazarus off the back of the left flipper at 3:25 Lol

Indeed. I get quite a few Lazarus balls on this pin. Always have to hang in there after a drain, since you never know.

#9388 11 months ago

Okay, so you have your Rick and Morty dialed in, screws are removed as appropriate, you have your rattle tape... But do you want to get it smooth to the next level? So I noticed sometimes right orbits would not function as expected, sometimes a portal would return to the inner orbit, sometimes it would go to the portal as expected. It was random, but then I figured it out. It would close as expected, but the spring led return was getting hampered. A few shots to the orbit (to a expected open diverter, which wasn't closing to the back properly), would eventually nudge it open enough to finally work. It was random, and confusing. So anyway...

Here are 2 tips you might not be aware of, and 1 (to not be an idiot like me):

1. Make sure the cylinder that connects the diverter through the playfield is not touching the edge of the orbit. This will rub, and eventually make it so it doesn't close properly. I removed the last ballguide screw and shifted it a slightly away from the diverter.
IMG_2982 (resized).JPG

2. Are you getting airballs on your right ramp? Is your right ramp shot not as clean as it can be. Make sure the edge of the left metal guard is at a right angle. It was originally at an obtuse angle, and stuck out about 2 mm from the wall, making my ramp not as clean.
IMG_2983 (resized).JPG

As for the other tip... Make sure the wire leading from the back of the playfield doesn't get stuck in the solenoid. This will also affect the diverter smoothness.
IMG_2984 (resized).JPG

#9389 11 months ago

Ok I'm finally updating my factory code.

Ok got it updated, now I got a low hum when I hold up or flip left flipper.

??????????

#9390 11 months ago

In installed Pinball Monks Tibetan Breeze flipper cooling kits. Simple to install, and they run very quite. Only thing I'll suggest is rather than removing both bolts holding each coil stop and then replacing them with the included standoff bolts, it's easier to swap the bolts one at a time. That way the coil stop remains in position and there's less risk dropping the bolt or small lock washer into the rats nest! I also added a second set of lock washers so that all eight bolts had the locks.

Played for about an hour after the install and as expected, no flipper fade

20201226_162308 (resized).jpg20201226_162532 (resized).jpg

#9391 11 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

In installed Pinball Monks Tibetan Breeze flipper cooling kits. Simple to install, and they run very quite. Only thing I'll suggest is rather than removing both bolts holding each coil stop and then replacing them with the included standoff bolts, it's easier to swap the bolts one at a time. That way the coil stop remains in position and there's less risk dropping the bolt or small lock washer into the rats nest!
Played for about an hour after the install and as expected, no flipper fade
[quoted image][quoted image]

Cool!

...but, umm, what about the squishy plastic sandwiched between the coil stop retaining bolts and the coil stop? . How are they done up to high tension without bulging plastic? ... I hope it goes okay anyway in the long run

Doesn't that leave plastic now trying to firmly hold the coil stop from moving? . Will it do a good job at that?

#9392 11 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Okay, so you have your Rick and Morty dialed in, screws are removed as appropriate, you have your rattle tape... But do you want to get it smooth to the next level? So I noticed sometimes right orbits would not function as expected, sometimes a portal would return to the inner orbit, sometimes it would go to the portal as expected. It was random, but then I figured it out. It would close as expected, but the spring led return was getting hampered. A few shots to the orbit (to a expected open diverter, which wasn't closing to the back properly), would eventually nudge it open enough to finally work. It was random, and confusing. So anyway...
Here are 2 tips you might not be aware of, and 1 (to not be an idiot like me):
1. Make sure the cylinder that connects the diverter through the playfield is not touching the edge of the orbit. This will rub, and eventually make it so it doesn't close properly. I removed the last ballguide screw and shifted it a slightly away from the diverter.
[quoted image]
2. Are you getting airballs on your right ramp? Is your right ramp shot not as clean as it can be. Make sure the edge of the left metal guard is at a right angle. It was originally at an obtuse angle, and stuck out about 2 mm from the wall, making my ramp not as clean.
[quoted image]
As for the other tip... Make sure the wire leading from the back of the playfield doesn't get stuck in the solenoid. This will also affect the diverter smoothness.
[quoted image]

Thanks for the tip on the right ramp guard. I just bent mine to hug the ramp and it opened up nicely...much smoother.

As far as airballs go, it seems like the obvious culprit is the large/left rivet that is in the ball path. Smaller rivets positioned closer to the flap corners would likely solve the airball problem.

IMG_3031 (resized).jpeg

#9393 11 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Doesn't that leave plastic now trying to firmly hold the coil stop from moving?

Not sure how durable that will be. Probably should be a metal part that attaches to the coil stop. Metal could then extend up and attach to plastic in a no pressure point location.

#9394 11 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Cool!
...but, umm, what about the squishy plastic sandwiched between the coil stop retaining bolts and the coil stop? . How are they done up to high tension without bulging plastic? ... I hope it goes okay anyway in the long run
Doesn't that leave plastic now trying to firmly hold the coil stop from moving? . Will it do a good job at that?

Reading the install directions I think there is a threaded standoff that holds the coil stop in place then the fan bolts into top of that. I assumed it was a metal stand off but I have not seen a kit in person

#9395 11 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

In installed Pinball Monks Tibetan Breeze flipper cooling kits. Simple to install, and they run very quite. Only thing I'll suggest is rather than removing both bolts holding each coil stop and then replacing them with the included standoff bolts, it's easier to swap the bolts one at a time. That way the coil stop remains in position and there's less risk dropping the bolt or small lock washer into the rats nest! I also added a second set of lock washers so that all eight bolts had the locks.
Played for about an hour after the install and as expected, no flipper fade
[quoted image][quoted image]

thx for posting. Was interested in these till I saw the mounting style. That is a poor design. Coil stops need to be very firmly help in place and plastic and extended bolt is a bad design for me.

pinmonk, and redesign possible here. Would rather mount to the spring plate or ???

#9396 11 months ago

The standoffs are metal. You put those on first and tighten the coil stop down. Then you use separate screws to bolt the plastic fan holder

Quoted from Whysnow:

thx for posting. Was interested in these till I saw the mounting style. That is a poor design. Coil stops need to be very firmly help in place and plastic and extended bolt is a bad design for me.
pinmonk, and redesign possible here. Would rather mount to the spring plate or ???

#9397 11 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

thx for posting. Was interested in these till I saw the mounting style. That is a poor design. Coil stops need to be very firmly help in place and plastic and extended bolt is a bad design for me.
pinmonk, and redesign possible here. Would rather mount to the spring plate or ???

Metal Standoffs (resized).png
#9398 11 months ago

I see now. Much better than it appeared in the picture. Still slightly concerned if those are not some sort of hardened stand off screws like the std style for coil stops?

pasted_image (resized).png
#9399 11 months ago

Sorry about the confusion with my pics not showing the coil stop stand-off bolts clearly. The design seems solid. Not sure about the metal used for the stand-offs, but I'm guessing aluminum because it's not magnetically affected.

#9400 11 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Sorry about the confusion with my pics not showing the coil stop stand-off bolts clearly. The design seems solid. Not sure about the metal used for the stand-offs, but I'm guessing aluminum because it's not magnetically affected.

thx arzoo!

Did it seem like you could torque them down tightly?

Do the fans run constantly when the game is powered on? I was thinking of adding these for route game, but non-stop running I am not a fan (pun intended) of
Would be cool if they only started when a game was started.

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