Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020Announcing the robot helper everyone needs, Extra Ball Bot!
https://pinballmods.co/extra-ball-bot-butter-bot-mod
This little, single-purpose helper is dedicated to providing you that extra ball just when you need it. Interactive lighting coordinates the red LED on its head with the extra ball insert lighting in the game. Simple plug and play installation.
Orders open for the first batch which will be shipping next week.
BallBot2 (resized).jpgBallBot3 (resized).jpgQuoted from harryhoudini:robot helper everyone needs
You keep making these amazing mods I am gonna go broke before I have to pay the balance on Ultraman 
Thought I had 649 finally home today but had to refuse delivery. Luckily shipping carrier and Spooky Squirrel have been helpful. So just a little bit longer till it gets here.
Quoted from Ch4p3l:Thought I had 649 finally home today but had to refuse delivery. Luckily shipping carrier and Spooky Squirrel have been helpful. So just a little bit longer till it gets here.
6C921E33-873B-4480-824A-E756A4514759 (resized).jpegQuoted from Ch4p3l:Thought I had 649 finally home today but had to refuse delivery. Luckily shipping carrier and Spooky Squirrel have been helpful. So just a little bit longer till it gets here.
Ugh, sorry to see that. It'll be worth the wait.
Quoted from Var1AbL3:You keep making these amazing mods I am gonna go broke before I have to pay the balance on Ultraman
Sorry 
Quoted from Zablon:This is what mine looks like.
Make the rest of the rail follow the graphics as close as you can...but the end will actually be off the graphics and closer to the post (not behind it).
My left rail seems to only be adjustable further out over the playfield graphic. This is image shows it pushed back as far back as it goes. Am I missing something? Any ideas? I’m not a great player but this shot is currently brutal for me on this machine compared to the other R&M machines I have played.
F86A8634-2D93-4B86-AB07-4ED8815792D7 (resized).jpegQuoted from monitorpop:My left rail seems to only be adjustable further out over the playfield graphic. This is image shows it pushed back as far back as it goes. Am I missing something? Any ideas? I’m not a great player but this shot is currently brutal for me on this machine compared to the other R&M machines I have played.[quoted image]
Get out the drill.
1. You will most likely need to drill a new pilot hole
2. The amount you can move it is limited if you don't undo the rail to about the middle.
3. This will vary by machine, but I believe to get the best curve, you need to remove the left wood rail, and one tab will be slightly under it (also probably need a new pilot)
4. By the time you are done, the end of the rail will fall short of the actual post (again something that will vary).
This is just my take on it, others may have a different opinion.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Get out the drill.
This. Mark the spot. Check the fit and adjust location as necessary.
Then, using a brand new bit (Check screw size w/gauge and pick the right bit!) with your drill set on reverse, start the hole. Once you burn through the clearcoat, put it in Forwward and drill away.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Get out the drill.
Quoted from Zablon:1. You will most likely need to drill a new pilot hole
Bummer. I really hate the idea of drilling into my playfield.
Quoted from monitorpop:Bummer. I really hate the idea of drilling into my playfield.
It's hidden and that's how the holes got there originally 
Quoted from monitorpop:My left rail seems to only be adjustable further out over the playfield graphic. This is image shows it pushed back as far back as it goes. Am I missing something? Any ideas? I’m not a great player but this shot is currently brutal for me on this machine compared to the other R&M machines I have played.[quoted image]
Exactly the same deal as mine. I tried everything tonight to bend the rail, and no chance of getting it behind the post.
It's incredible how different some of these games were put together, making it very difficult to troubleshoot certain issues.
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:I saw that... 2 of the more difficult titles available for anyone let alone a newbie... But why do you say $13K is OTT. I paid a bunch more than that for my R&M NIB direct from Spooky.
Ugh, $USD corrected amount for our American friends here, which I always pay them the courtesy of doing. Didn't mean to confuse my countrymen in the process. But if you saw the FB post(with the $A17.5K asking price) you'd probably also realise I'd done the $USD conversion btw.
I really think this game is great once everything is dialed in, do you think that Spooky would ever consider making more of them? I have to believe the demand would still be quite large.
Quoted from Aniraf:do you think that Spooky would ever consider making more of them
No.
750 is what they said. 750 is what they made.
(Plus a couple of prototypes)
rd
Quoted from monitorpop:My left rail seems to only be adjustable further out over the playfield graphic. This is image shows it pushed back as far back as it goes. Am I missing something? Any ideas? I’m not a great player but this shot is currently brutal for me on this machine compared to the other R&M machines I have played.[quoted image]
Quoted from Zablon:1. You will most likely need to drill a new pilot hole
2. The amount you can move it is limited if you don't undo the rail to about the middle.
3. This will vary by machine, but I believe to get the best curve, you need to remove the left wood rail, and one tab will be slightly under it (also probably need a new pilot)
4. By the time you are done, the end of the rail will fall short of the actual post (again something that will vary).
This is just my take on it, others may have a different opinion.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/278#post-6301779
Quoted from Ch4p3l:[quoted image]
So disappointing 
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:Ugh, $USD corrected amount for our American friends here, which I always pay them the courtesy of doing. Didn't mean to confuse my countrymen in the process. But if you saw the FB post(with the $A17.5K asking price) you'd probably also realise I'd done the $USD conversion btw.
Apologies... I probably did see the original pricing. Over worked and under slept at the mo :-/
Quoted from harryhoudini:IPS panel installed and it looks AMAZING! Not sure if you can tell from this image. Definitely some issues to work out with the install, the first being that it only fits rotated 180 degrees. There is no option in the controller I bought to rotate the image. I am looking to see if that is an option with any controller.
[quoted image]
Out of curiosity and just glancing at mine without taking it apart.. could you just rotate the screen upside down and cut a new guide square for the wires in the new position? The HDMI would still reach as would the other wires. Obviously the correct controller would be the preferred method but in theory it seems like that could be an alternate fix?
We are now up to 10 want ads for Rick and Morty with none for sale. With no more of these ever being made per Spooky, and production just having stopped, when will we see peak prices on these? Last one for sale used is pending at 10,500 without butter. I'm not selling mine, but it was interesting how many people tried to buy this off me at Allentown even with a big NFS sign on it and the price field labeled as "Kidneys".
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:We are now up to 10 want ads for Rick and Morty with none for sale. With no more of these ever being made per Spooky, and production just having stopped, when will we see peak prices on these? Last one for sale used is pending at 10,500 without butter. I'm not selling mine, but it was interesting how many people tried to buy this off me at Allentown even with a big NFS sign on it and the price field labeled as "Kidneys".
One NIB pending now at 13k, I'm just so glad I was able so score one right now but withholding the price tag at the moment lol.
Quoted from monitorpop:Bummer. I really hate the idea of drilling into my playfield.
If you drill a new hole, just make sure it's not too close to the original hole. The other option would be to remove the rail and use a file to extend the hole in the bracket so there's some additional adjustment. Problem is the screw head will eventually hit the rail so you'll only gain maybe 1/8". This is what I did and it was enough to improve the shot.
Quoted from arzoo:If you drill a new hole, just make sure it's not too close to the original hole. The other option would be to remove the rail and use a file to extend the hole in the bracket so there's some additional adjustment. Problem is the screw head will eventually hit the rail so you'll only gain maybe 1/8". This is what I did and it was enough to improve the shot.
That would have been my first attempt as ball guides are fairly cheap if needed to replace.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I drilled my playfield and you should too. Bold statement I know.
It has been my experience with the stock game that the garage shot was almost unmakeable and tended to just bounce around in the curve instead of going into the garage unless hit flawlessly. I saw several guides on here on making alterations, and would suggest another slight nuance to the modifications others have suggested.
Like others, I removed the far left screw, loosened the wooden side rail, and tucked the tab underneath. This indeed made the shot easier. In addition to this, I left the center screw in place (some recommend removal) and pulled the right screw back a quarter inch or so, drilled a new hole, and re-attached the screw. With this in place I have found my Garage shot to be much more consistant and to work much better.
This aleteration is invisible from the players position, does not allow the rail to flex and scratch the playfield, and makes the game mroe enjoyable to me. Should I ever decide to sell the game and someone else does not like what I did, all the original screw holes are in place, and the new hole I made is hidden underneath the plastics. You cannot visually tell any change was made except when viewing from the head.
HOWEVER
The negative to this is that many balls that would have simply bounced around in that curve now make it ALMOST to the garage. If a ball maeks it almost to the garage, more often than not it drains down the shot, across the playfield, and into the right outlane. That magna save is critical if you miss the shop because there is no way to save it (without tilting) at my skill level.
Hope these photos help someone else and good luck!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Since you guys are talking about drilling playfields again, here are pictures of the very minor alteration I made to mine. This was how it was set up at Pinfest.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:here are pictures of the very minor alteration I made to mine
Do you have a pic that shows the location of the two holes without the rail and screw installed?
Quoted from Gorgar123:Do you have a pic that shows the location of the two holes without the rail and screw installed?
All the pictures I still have can be seen by scrolling through here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club?tu=sataneatscheese#op
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:We are now up to 10 want ads for Rick and Morty with none for sale. With no more of these ever being made per Spooky, and production just having stopped, when will we see peak prices on these? Last one for sale used is pending at 10,500 without butter. I'm not selling mine, but it was interesting how many people tried to buy this off me at Allentown even with a big NFS sign on it and the price field labeled as "Kidneys".
Maybe I would sell mine for 20K?
Nahhhh!
Love this game!
I have GNR and I just got the Mandalorian but I still play Rick and Morty a lot.
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Maybe I would sell mine for 20K?
Nahhhh!
Love this game!
I have GNR and I just got the Mandalorian but I still play Rick and Morty a lot.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:In the 8 months since I got R&M, I rarely play any of my other games any more.
Man I still play all of mine. They get traded when they get stale. ST:TNG is the only one that gets close for me, and my LOTR is a completely different player than Rick and Morty. There are a handful of other super fast games that give a feeling similar to Rick and Morty, but not the same. Total Nuclear Annihilation, Torpedo Alley.
I have a whole new level of appreciation for Rick and Morty after watching a line over 20 deep form to play my Rick and Morty at Pinfest.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:In the 8 months since I got R&M, I rarely play any of my other games any more.
This is me too...lol. (granted haven't had it as long).
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:All the pictures I still have can be seen by scrolling through here
Thanks. Flipped through all of those and couldn't find any showing the location of the hole to be drilled. Was just curious how close it ended up being to the original hole.
Quoted from monitorpop:Bummer. I really hate the idea of drilling into my playfield.
You don't have to drill. Just put a little pressure on the nutdriver as you turn the screw in its new spot and the screw will easily cut a new hole.
Quoted from arzoo:If you drill a new hole, just make sure it's not too close to the original hole.
Stuff toothpicks into the old holes and snap them off to fill the holes.
Quoted from macethetemplar:Out of curiosity and just glancing at mine without taking it apart.. could you just rotate the screen upside down and cut a new guide square for the wires in the new position? The HDMI would still reach as would the other wires. Obviously the correct controller would be the preferred method but in theory it seems like that could be an alternate fix?
It's more the design of the IPS panel with the large border on the bottom. Just doesn't fit in the metal panel without leaving a large gap at the bottom of the window. I have another screen on order that should do the trick.
Quoted from Gorgar123:Thanks. Flipped through all of those and couldn't find any showing the location of the hole to be drilled. Was just curious how close it ended up being to the original hole.
It wouldn't matter if you got a picture.
Think of every build as a one off. The ball guide is a little different on each build. Some builds required no adjustment.
What you are looking to do is improve the arc of the ball guide so there is a little more clearance and no flat spots in the arc.
Your hole placement will be determined on the arc of your ball guide.
Jus take your time, measure twice and drill once.
Quoted from harryhoudini:It's more the design of the IPS panel with the large border on the bottom. Just doesn't fit in the metal panel without leaving a large gap at the bottom of the window. I have another screen on order that should do the trick.
I played R&M in an arcade with a bunch of Stern pins and yes, R&M screen looked poor in comparison. It may or may not have had adjustments, but a game like this deserves a really good LCD, to show off the amazing graphics.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I have another screen on order that should do the trick.
I am anxiously awaiting the results and a final verdict on what replacement screen is best. Such an affordable upgrade that makes a big difference.
I bought my R&M used and they didn't order the speaker grills or lights. This is the other upgrade I would buy in a heartbeat if it was available.
Quoted from Var1AbL3:I am anxiously awaiting the results and a final verdict on what replacement screen is best. Such an affordable upgrade that makes a big difference.
I bought my R&M used and they didn't order the speaker grills or lights. This is the other upgrade I would buy in a heartbeat if it was available.
They are likely crazy busy right now, but at some point you should email Kayte to find out if they are selling them. That is how i got grills/LEDs for my TNA.
Quoted from Var1AbL3:I am anxiously awaiting the results and a final verdict on what replacement screen is best. Such an affordable upgrade that makes a big difference.
I bought my R&M used and they didn't order the speaker grills or lights. This is the other upgrade I would buy in a heartbeat if it was available.
Real shame the original purchaser didn't step up for the speaker lights and grills. Great light experience
Quoted from Var1AbL3:I am anxiously awaiting the results and a final verdict on what replacement screen is best. Such an affordable upgrade that makes a big difference.
I bought my R&M used and they didn't order the speaker grills or lights. This is the other upgrade I would buy in a heartbeat if it was available.
Should be here Friday. Of course these screens don't fit in the original mounting bracket so I'll print up some brackets to mount it and hold the controller.
Quoted from Morinack:It wouldn't matter if you got a picture.
Think of every build as a one off. The ball guide is a little different on each build. Some builds required no adjustment.
What you are looking to do is improve the arc of the ball guide so there is a little more clearance and no flat spots in the arc.
Your hole placement will be determined on the arc of your ball guide.
Jus take your time, measure twice and drill once.
Great post! On my machine, I chose not to drill or even shift the top hole under the wood rails. I felt the shot was makeable as is, but wanted just a little more success, so I loosened the screws and realigned it slightly (less than 1/8 inch) to make a better arc and even that minor adjustment gave me higher success rates at hitting the garage shot.
Just want to say, if someone wants to offer me $20K for my fully tuned Standard edition, let me know. I’ll throw in the original bushings and the crazy loud fan I replaced.
I don’t want to sell it but $20K is a lot of money.
Hi all- having an issue where the pop bumper has gradually stopped working after a bunch of games. A really hard shot to it might activate it but most balls just “thud” off of it. I know the nuts have not fallen off and I’m guessing it’s something with the spoon in the bumper mech. Just curious as to what others have done to remedy this. Thanks
Quoted from arzoo:If you drill a new hole, just make sure it's not too close to the original hole.
regardless of how near or far the new hole is drilled, first stuff the old hole tightly with toothpicks/dowels and wood glue and allow it to dry solid. this way you prevent the old hole from collapsing.
I just sold my last Blue Light Mod. My plan is to produce another batch this weekend. I won't have a lot of extra time the next few months as I have several home remodeling projects. If you are interested, please send me a PM so I can get a ballpark number on how many to produce in the next batch.
Thanks again to everyone for all the Pinside support on this project! Your positive comments have really motivated me to continue making this mod.
Dennis
RM Crystal Mod (resized).jpgQuoted from gac:Hi all- having an issue where the pop bumper has gradually stopped working after a bunch of games. A really hard shot to it might activate it but most balls just “thud” off of it. I know the nuts have not fallen off and I’m guessing it’s something with the spoon in the bumper mech. Just curious as to what others have done to remedy this. Thanks
I would suggest going in to the switch test and activating the pop bumper skirt with your finger (heyo!) to see how easy it is to trigger the switch. You can adjust the switch which the spoon hits to make it more sensitive.
Quoted from jwilson:Just want to say, if someone wants to offer me $20K for my fully tuned Standard edition, let me know. I’ll throw in the original bushings and the crazy loud fan I replaced.
I don’t want to sell it but $20K is a lot of money.
I would sell my standard for 20k.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/310 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Lakewood, CO
Toronto, ON
Melbourne