My cup holders will install right or left inside or outside cab. Options!

This isn't quite correct from what I have observed on my game.

The diverter is always open, except when the game calls to close it for a reason.

The "closed otherwise" I don't think is accurate.

If the portal is not lit, the diverter should be resting open, but should close for a short period when the right orbit switch closes. "Diverter initial power" is to resist the force of a swift shot, preventing the diverter from partially deflecting back, and messing up the smooth ball path. I eventually put this setting to 29 and that stopped the fast shots pushing the diverter half open during the shot, where the ball used to smack against the end of the ball guide (to spinner).

Also the hinge/pivot and screw heads of the diverter were fouling the ball path before I tweaked. This was killing the smooth shot vibe.

So cooked71 is on the right track I think, the diverter fails to close for unlit portal whenever the switch in the orbit start does not register.

I played with the switch a bit, tried to bend it this way and that way, but it is a pain. Doesn't help that it is buried and hard to deal with. Afraid I'll break the switch before I get it where it needs to be. Probably order a couple of the other switches. When I put it back, it was definitely not registering every time (and was going to garage when portal was not lit).

On a positive note, while I had it open I finally made adjustments to the left garage shot. WOW, what a difference. I had already made the other orbit adjustments, and upper flipper adjustment, and now all the shots are butter (when you actually hit them). First couple games I was hitting dimensions I've never seen before.

As has been mentioned, if you just make the adjustments so that the rails more closely match the art, that seems to be the trick.

I just installed magnet switches at the spinner and outer top right orbit spots. HOLY SHIT the spinner loop is fast now.
No awkward switch clip sound on my by either spot.

Yeah, my right orbit shots will miss the UR switch and go into the garage fairly often. epthegeek added compensation for this switch on upper loop shots, but there's nothing he can do for right orbit shots that miss the UR switch. I'm going to go through my parts playfields to see if I can find a rollunder switch assy, that would fix the problem... although TBH I like the portal feed to L flipper much better than the out of control feed coming out of the upper loop entrance...

There's a function in SETTINGS that allows you to basically disable the diverter and since I did so, the game (and my shots around the orbit) has been playing much smoother. Kinda feels like when I did the same thing on my Metallica. A lot better flow.

But the diverter is usefull to gameplay. If the garage is not lit, it diverts you to the spinner which charges the portal gun to open the garage for a new dimension. The only other way to the spinner is with the upper flipper, but harder to do than orbit/diverter
For this reason I would not disable it. Works well for me at least !

Can you elaborate on this a little more? I've had mine for 3-4 months now and still can't hit the left garage shot with any regularity. Everyone tells me to "play better" but it just doesn't seem to get there. Any advice would be appreciated, including pics of what you did, perhaps?

I can actually hit the top spinner with the upper flipper quite well, surprisingly, so no problems there. I even hit it 2-3 times in a row sometimes. The left garage shot on the other hand....fuggedaboutit!

There is a key post in this forum I followed. Before I would rarely hit the garage, now I can hit it al least 60-80% of the time I aim for it. Made the super skill shot easy to do. Really worth it to take time to bend the rail

This tpost basically tells you and shows what it should mostly look like.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/37#post-5552517

The trick is you have to go under and unscrew the left woodrail first (like 3 screws in the middle) so that you can lift it a little.

Then remove the 3 screws holding the metal rail down. Shove the back screw tab under the woodrailing so that it lines up with the art (you'll have to 'shape' the rail as you go). You can't put that screw back in, so once you have it in place, I found it easiest to tighten the woodrail down before continuing.

Then just follow the art. Here is where some people might wince. You pretty much need to drill a new screw hole for the last 2 screws. You don't have to go deep, just enough to get the screw started. Remembering to shape the rail as you go so that it is rounder. The last hole will be kind of hard because you'll be forcing it to line up --and as you can see in the pictures, the end of it does not line up completely with the art, aim it more towards the top side of the rubber post but not behind it.

Hope that helps.

No more shooter launch rejects coming!!

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Wait, an MRS can be used for the spinner?!?!?

Like others here, I had balls that would miss switches and affect gameplay. I replaced all 4 of the upper rollovers with the MRS switches and they register 100% now. Had a questionable subway switch on my ACNC and an MRS fixed that problem too.

If they weren't so pricey, I would replace every switch in every game with them if I could. That's how nice they are, but that's unrealistic.

On just played a couple games, NUTS!
I had two perfectly clean shots that I can’t believe I made. The first one was a right ramp shot from the upper right flipper. It was coming from the left side of playfield and I hit it oncoming and went perfectly up ramp.
Then, Next game,,, I made a clean left ramp shot with left flipper. I hit it on the fly coming down and must have been “the” perfect angle to mail that left ramp. I blew my own mind twice.
“Kevin’s mind blowers” Episode - April 1

No sorry, my bad communication.... the switch on the PF 2” past the spinner

Ah, gotcha. Yeah, its much smoother with all 4 physical switches replaced.

I have done this maybe 4-5 times on a shot from the right orbit that returns through the spinner. The faster it is coming into that upper flipper, the smoother it flows.

Surprised the shit out of me the first time I did it as I was trying to get a seed on the r. horseshoe before it disappeared. A shot I didn't expect to make, anyway...and then BAM! - Right Ramp.

What was your fix for this?

Number #7 is in the house. Finally.

It’s been on a “holiday” in someone else’s house since it landed in NZ last year.

This game plays fine out of the box. I slammed 8 top loops in a row first game. Lol

rd

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Just had a new experience. Started the Gromflomite Multiball while in the W1L-HM dimension.

The screaming.... Oh god, the screaming.

Do not recommend.

giphy (resized).png

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/164#post-5984607

Obviously after the dramatic bend, the crank position was different. It can't be bent that far without making up for it at the crank. I bent the diverter assembled in place, holding the crank from behind, then re-adjusted the crank position to suit new angle.

Makes sense. I've never had a problem with the orbit switch not registering...my problem was the diverter was stuck behind the ball guide (more severe).

Which ones did you use?

That's one of the great things, the (dimensions) X (adventures) X (multiballs) overlay for unique experiences at times.

The ONLY ones. Reach out to Sonic .

Are the flippers supposed to flutter when the ball gets shot at that from the pop bumper.

Mine flutter so much, that the ball just drains after hitting the flipper.

Also, I've tried adjusting the right flipper switch, but with that clear actuator blade, it the last switch blades (for upper flipper) are barely even pressed.they actually weren't even making contact when I took it out of the box.

Why did Spooky go with these cheap, flimsy switches? The ones used in TNA and other games have those extra support blades that make them feel stronger and add more tension.

Any thoughts on how to fix this?

I just put a metal blade on mine. It’s as easy as one screw turn and two screw turns.

Are you on the latest update (2021/03/11) ? They made an important change on EOS settings that should help.
As for the flipper switch mine works great with the plastic piece, I just had to adjust the last leaf for the upper flipper to engage reliably

I started multiball and went to the fart dimension at the same time. OMG. I almost wet my pants, could barely play. My wife watching started giggling uncontrollably. It was glorious! Truly hilarious.

Yesterday, I went into grom AND meseeks mb at the same time during the parasite adventure, and rotated through 3 dimensions within a minute and landed in strobe dimension which I had never seen before. It was sensory overload. lol. Even through all that I didn't complete that damn adventure.

PM sent if still availble-

Correct

It’s crazy how many different combinations of adventure / dimensions there actually are. I’m not sure if anyone has actually figured out how many different combinations there theoretically are, but it’s a bunch. Not to mention whatever that number is you can basically double it for with or without multiball.
Pretty awesome and always keeps the game fresh.

Finally got the right flipper to work, but still having fluttering on both flippers from anything that comes off the pop bumper. I had to glue a plastic washer to the clear flipper switch.

Also, I noticed sometimes when I press the flipper, the pf lights up blue, and the shaker activates. This can be even when the ball is sitting in the shooter lane. Any ideas?

Last thing, the left ramp is pretty much impossible to hit. I get the ball right to the top, and it rolls back down. Anyone else have this, and how can it be fixed? What's the recommended pitch for this game?

Thanks!

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This sounds like more than just a flipper adjustment issue. I would reach out to Spooky and see if they can assist.

Here's a video of it. Is this normal?

I’d guess your pop switch needs adjusted. Vibration from your flipper is closing pop switch. Needs a larger gap.

^^ this ^^

Not normal.

I'll try that tomorrow.

Is it a known issue to have trouble making shots up that left ramp? 90-95% of me clean shots, reach the top, and roll right back down.

What angle is your playfield?

(Not the glass....)

rd

Scott Danesi says 6.9.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/21#post-5493671

I’m Mr. Meeseeks look at me!⁣⁣
⁣⁣
Welcome Rick and Morty, Bloodsucker Edition #298, my first NEW game added to the arcade. I say new in both a literal and figurative way, as this game was brand new in box. I got it maxed out with all possible features and have zero regrets. Best theme integration on a pinball game I’ve ever experienced. ⁣⁣
⁣
- plastic protectors⁣
- interior graphics ⁣
- knocker kit installed⁣
- shaker kit installed⁣
- speaker kit installed⁣
- kalaxian crystal coin door and legs⁣
- butter cabinet⁣
⁣⁣
That’s the waaaaay the news goes!⁣

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The cause is likely your right flipper needs to be adjusted. EOS adjustments are common with new games. Sometimes the flipper might be binding with the bushing. If both of these are dialed in and you are still having problems making the left ramp, you should speak with Spooky. I stumbled on this video the other day...might be helpful if you don't have much experience with dialing in flippers.

Great video!

My back levellers are cranked up 80-85% and my digital level says 6.5

How cool would it be if a manufacturer could introduce new content that corresponded with a new season?

Cool. Does Spooky normally sign the back of the back box?

I don’t think so but not 100% certain. For this machine, a request was made for signatures. I think it’s a neat touch.

No, but they will if you request it...

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If the levellers are almost all the way out (that’s how I read that) then I would think you’d be way more that 6.5 ..?

Someone who’s at 6.5 and can make the ramps ok ... how high are your rear levellers?

rd