(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

2 years ago


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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by northerndude
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There are 17,874 posts in this topic. You are on page 159 of 358.
#7901 1 year ago

Can we get the ball search logic sped up? Excruciatingly slow at the moment.

epthegeek ?

#7902 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Is Rick and Morty (the show) extreme enough to have pedo dimension with Michael Jackson, Prince Andrew, Roman Polanski, R Kelly, etc alt-versions all roaming around proclaiming their innocence?

wow.....

#7903 1 year ago

This game appears to be for sale if anyone is interested... Facebook post...

IMG-20201120-WA0007 (resized).jpg
#7904 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

This game appears to be for sale if anyone is interested... Facebook post...
[quoted image]

That’s a funny ad.

#7905 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

This game appears to be for sale if anyone is interested... Facebook post...
[quoted image]

Oh he must’ve gotten one of Spooky’s worst machines.... you know, the ones with a bad coin door lock.

#7906 1 year ago

I also found one for sale in Germany... not too far from me... 11,500euro... that's $13,600... not sure what the going rate is for this game, but it seems a bit pricy to me... it does have all the extras though, including the butter cab...

#7907 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

This game appears to be for sale if anyone is interested... Facebook post...
[quoted image]

The game isnt for everyone, in fact no game is really...

That said, since I might not be able to route my NIB game due to covid-19, Im thinking of selling it.

#7908 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

I also found one for sale in Germany... not too far from me... 11,500euro... that's $13,600... not sure what the going rate is for this game, but it seems a bit pricy to me... it does have all the extras though, including the butter cab...

No game is really worth $13K R&M is worth $7-10K anything more is crazy when you can buy 2 games such as Stern pro + Stern premium, you can get AFM and MB remakes for $13K.

#7909 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

I also found one for sale in Germany... not too far from me... 11,500euro... that's $13,600... not sure what the going rate is for this game, but it seems a bit pricy to me... it does have all the extras though, including the butter cab...

You are wrong dude, he has also not the purple coindoor, nevertheless the price is not to high.
In the moment there are only about 15-20 machines in europe and a few more in great britain.
And from now you have to pay 25% more penalty-tax for US goods in the EU.
So you calculate by yourself what the price of the next R&M machines will be.

#7910 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

No game is really worth $13K R&M is worth $7-10K anything more is crazy when you can buy 2 games such as Stern pro + Stern premium, you can get AFM and MB remakes for $13K.

...easy to say, if you are living in a pinball wonderland.
The machines are way more expensive in europe even if the Dollar is weak in the moment.
But of course you are also right. The prices have risen in the last 10 years, unfortunately not in favor of quality,
and we the pinheads have not stopped buying.

#7911 1 year ago

Anyone know where to tap into 12volt for mods on r&m

#7912 1 year ago

Spent this afternoon solving my R&M audio issues. Solution cost $10 I purchased this spacer from Amazon and bought 4 2" screws to accommodate the spacer/cabinet: amazon.com link »

Installation is a little tedious, here are some highlights:

- The speaker grill is stapled with 32 small staples! Removing them was a PITA
- Needed to move the shaker board over to accommodate the spacer. Simple.
- Decided to move the amp and fasten it to the wood divider with velcro (the amp is ultra light). Might come up with a better solution later. Having easy access to the amp controls from the coin door made a HUGE difference, since I could fiddle with the sound while the game was playing. I realize my location interferes with the coin box cover, but it doesn't matter since it's in my home, not an arcade.
- Dealing with the nuts below the cabinet was a PITA. They kept popping out if the screw wasn't spot-on, which is tough since the spacer holes are 3/4". On a couple, I simple used a washer and hex lock nut. It's rock solid which is all that matters...will likely clean it up later.

R&M went from sounding like a huge fart/turd to sounding awesome (and I don't have anti-rattle tape installed!). The components they use are really nice, however it's clear the speaker/amp combination REQUIRE a spacer like this. Again, now my game isn't convulsing/rattling and I don't have anti-rattle tape! I will likely still install anti-rattle tape to better secure the glass, but it's no longer a bandaid to the audio booming. Glass rattling is now rare, as it should be

Hope this helps!

IMG_2723 (resized).jpegIMG_2726 (resized).jpegIMG_2730 (resized).jpegIMG_2732 (resized).jpeg

#7913 1 year ago

Why didn’t you staple or screw through the screen to put it back on?

#7914 1 year ago

Anyone who tests the betas see any lately? Wondering when a new code update will be? No rush, just curious.

#7915 1 year ago

Last Beta was 10 days ago, when there's a gap it usually means they're waiting for something to be approved.

#7916 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Last Beta was 10 days ago, when there's a gap it usually means they're waiting for something to be approved.

Well then I definitely can wait!

#7917 1 year ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

Why didn’t you staple or screw through the screen to put it back on?

Because I wanted the MDF ring to be tight against the cabinet. The screen doesn't provide much protection (cloth, not metal) and it removes a variable that *could* contribute to rattling.

#7918 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

[quoted image]

No wonder it's flying off the shelf

#7919 1 year ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

It’s very cool! Hides the little spring under the ship.
[quoted image]

Cool, thanks!

#7920 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Because I wanted the MDF ring to be tight against the cabinet. The screen doesn't provide much protection (cloth, not metal) and it removes a variable that *could* contribute to rattling.

True. Just curious. I’d always be paranoid my 2 year old would poke it, just because it’s exactly what he shouldn’t be doing.

#7921 1 year ago
Quoted from waynetrane:

You are wrong dude, he has also not the purple coindoor,

Sorry, you're right... it also DOESN'T have the butter cab... confused now where I got that info from... my mistake...

Yes, that 25% tax increase is really screwing things for new pin sales in Europe!

#7922 1 year ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

Just curious. I’d always be paranoid my 2 year old would poke it, just because it’s exactly what he shouldn’t be doing.

I remember reading a previous post from you where you mentioned he loves pressing the magna-save for the same reason... on that one you could put a really stiff spring behind the button

#7923 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

I remember reading a previous post from you where you mentioned he loves pressing the magna-save for the same reason... on that one you could put a really stiff spring behind the button

You would actually be surprised. I sit him at the game and not saying he is good or anything, but I’ll be damned if he can’t hit the ball at least 5 times.

If I reply to a text for two seconds and look up, the magna save is drained. Good for him, wouldn’t have it any other way. I love my kids.

#7924 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Spent this afternoon solving my R&M audio issues. Solution cost $10 I purchased this spacer from Amazon and bought 4 2" screws to accommodate the spacer/cabinet: amazon.com link »
Installation is a little tedious, here are some highlights:
- The speaker grill is stapled with 32 small staples! Removing them was a PITA
- Needed to move the shaker board over to accommodate the spacer. Simple.
- Decided to move the amp and fasten it to the wood divider with velcro (the amp is ultra light). Might come up with a better solution later. Having easy access to the amp controls from the coin door made a HUGE difference, since I could fiddle with the sound while the game was playing. I realize my location interferes with the coin door, but it doesn't matter since it's in my home, not an arcade.
- Dealing with the nuts below the cabinet was a PITA. They kept popping out if the screw wasn't spot-on, which is tough since the spacer holes are 3/4". On a couple, I simple used a washer and hex lock nut. It's rock solid which is all that matters...will likely clean it up later.
R&M went from sounding like a huge fart/turd to sounding awesome (and I don't have anti-rattle tape installed!). The components they use are really nice, however it's clear the speaker/amp combination REQUIRE a spacer like this. Again, now my game isn't convulsing/rattling and I don't have anti-rattle tape! I will likely still install it to better secure the glass, but it's no longer a bandaid to the audio booming.
Hope this helps!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is it a 10"speaker? Havent got the game in front of me to check.

#7925 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Is it a 10"speaker? Havent got the game in front of me to check.

Correct...photos show this (see woofer label).

#7926 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Correct...photos show this (see woofer label).

thx, just checking before I have it shipped.

#7927 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Oh he must’ve gotten one of Spooky’s worst machines.... you know, the ones with a bad coin door lock.

I know you're making light of that whole situation but really, Spooky has some attention to detail and QA issues. I don't think it's a funny situation especially how they handled it.

#7928 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I know you're making light of that whole situation but really, Spooky has some attention to detail and QA issues. I don't think it's a funny situation especially how they handled it.

Definitely not for the "set and forget" Stern crowd. Or operators. But that is part of the appeal to me in some weird way masochistic pinball hobbiest way.

#7929 1 year ago

The woofer spacer ring, is that just a felt ring or is it felt-wrapped MDF? Just contemplating the DIY route and wonder if even some high density foam would be a goer.

#7930 1 year ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

The woofer spacer ring, is that just a felt ring or is it felt-wrapped MDF? Just contemplating the DIY route and wonder if even some high density foam would be a goer.

It's MDF wrapped in felt.

#7931 1 year ago

Sick of the spongy buttons and double presses (and the meted green button they shipped mine with). While metal bracket is nicer, a circuit board and positive click membrane switches that only press once make going in to the menu less painful. It's the little touches. Just need one more black button... off to the resin printer!

pasted_image (resized).png

#7932 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Because I wanted the MDF ring to be tight against the cabinet. The screen doesn't provide much protection (cloth, not metal) and it removes a variable that *could* contribute to rattling.

Can someone tell me how a spacer ring helps? I thought it was an air seal issue and this doesn't vent air? Not doubting anyone, just an audio noob.

#7933 1 year ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

True. Just curious. I’d always be paranoid my 2 year old would poke it, just because it’s exactly what he shouldn’t be doing.

Speakers like these come with metal magnetic covers. Could probably find just the replacement cover and add some internal magnets and then you can just let it zrrrp up there.

amazon.com link »

#7934 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I know you're making light of that whole situation but really, Spooky has some attention to detail and QA issues. I don't think it's a funny situation especially how they handled it.

So.... was that ever implied by my comment? That it was a funny situation? I don’t think so.... and how does anyone know from a random screenshot of a Facebook post on here how it was handled? I don’t, and I don’t do Facebook so I didn’t go looking into it.

Look, believe me, I feel bad for anyone that has a bad experience with a NIB purchase But, as far as I know, I don’t think that experience was posted here on this thread.

So a little humor about something most are familiar with here on this thread doesn’t mean i’m poking fun at this guys situation or laughing about that. If you’re in the Spooky thread you should appreciate the humor in that comment about the coin door lock and that’s it. Thats all that was intended by my comment.

Lighten up bro... don’t assume I meant something else.

#7935 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Definitely not for the "set and forget" Stern crowd.

You clearly have not bought a Stranger Things!

#7936 1 year ago
Quoted from Manic:

Yeah the whole "censor" thing is pretty popular right now. "We like it the way it is and wouldn't change it - but YOU should not have another option or even have the temerity to ASK about it!" lol
Why would other people care that would never use the option? I certainly wouldn't care how others set up their game and there's an option that gave them more enjoyment I'd be all for it. I don't get the nattering nabobs of negativism towards the suggestion. (There's an old quote for ya - though it sounds vaguely R&M-like )
.

There is an everyday analogy to your argument.... around the part where it Does affect others, because there is a wider Cost to the superfluous "option" that caters to only a few.

You know, just saying.

I'm sure a few additional "easy" dimensions will come in to randomise better the early mix. Code is still building

#7937 1 year ago

Does anyone know if it's possible for a European buyer to import a game 2nd hand from the US and be able to use it in Europe? I believe Stern have blocked this option by making the games not function when the mains frequency is 50Hz, as it is here... so only their games configured for export will actually work in Europe... just wondering if Spooky do the same thing? There is also the voltage difference, but this is very easy to deal with, even if there is no easy terminal re-location on the transformer...

#7938 1 year ago

Getting balls jump off the right ramp. Anyone made a Perspex cover for the top?

#7939 1 year ago
Quoted from bitternerd:

Can someone tell me how a spacer ring helps? I thought it was an air seal issue and this doesn't vent air? Not doubting anyone, just an audio noob.

It helps by putting 3/4" distance between the speaker "cone" (which moves/vibrates to produce sound) and the cabinet. I have PinWoofer audio systems in my Sterns and they use speaker rings and the system rocks. Not claiming a speaker ring is a "silver bullet" for the R&M vibration problem, but for me, it worked well in combination with dialing in the amplifier settings. For example, if you crank the sub/bass dials too much, the game will still convulse/vibrate!

My game is #175 and it doesn't have any openings under the cabinet (like other manufacturers cabinets). Apparently, earlier R&M builds had a couple air vents. That said, if air vents are the solution to the vibration issues, then it makes no sense that Spooky would remove them in later builds.

I haven't read every post in this thread...I know Spooky folks are engaged and often help/comment on issues. Would be interesting to hear from them on this issue, but I'm just happy my games audio is dialed in now. For me, audio is a big deal.

#7940 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Does anyone know if it's possible for a European buyer to import a game 2nd hand from the US and be able to use it in Europe? I believe Stern have blocked this option by making the games not function when the mains frequency is 50Hz, as it is here... so only their games configured for export will actually work in Europe... just wondering if Spooky do the same thing? There is also the voltage difference, but this is very easy to deal with, even if there is no easy terminal re-location on the transformer...

If its possible... would it still not be the 25 % penalty fees added when going through customs into EU country?

In norway we must pay 25 % on everything imported, no matter if its new or second hand.

#7941 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Getting balls jump off the right ramp. Anyone made a Perspex cover for the top?

I've seen this a few times in the last 100 or so posts so I'll send you to my post here. It's a few pictures in, but I made one with lexan (hand cut/drilled). Took a little bit of effort, but it's resolved all airball issues on the right ramp.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/38#post-5561129

#7942 1 year ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

If its possible... would it still not be the 25 % penalty fees added when going through customs into EU country?

Yes, this would still be applicable... but you'd be surprised how much a 2nd hand machine can depreciate when it comes to completing a customs declaration form

#7943 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Yes, this would still be applicable... but you'd be surprised how much a 2nd hand machine can depreciate when it comes to completing a customs declaration form

Of course, and it is something thats been done by many Unfortunately, there are some horror stories, ill reply to you in PM

#7944 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Does anyone know if it's possible for a European buyer to import a game 2nd hand from the US and be able to use it in Europe? I believe Stern have blocked this option by making the games not function when the mains frequency is 50Hz, as it is here... so only their games configured for export will actually work in Europe... just wondering if Spooky do the same thing? There is also the voltage difference, but this is very easy to deal with, even if there is no easy terminal re-location on the transformer...

Call Spooky

#7945 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

There is an everyday analogy to your argument.... around the part where it Does affect others, because there is a wider Cost to the superfluous "option" that caters to only a few.
You know, just saying.
I'm sure a few additional "easy" dimensions will come in to randomise better the early mix. Code is still building

adding more 'easy' dimensions would make a big difference so it's not only the same every time.

#7946 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I've seen this a few times in the last 100 or so posts so I'll send you to my post here. It's a few pictures in, but I made one with lexan (hand cut/drilled). Took a little bit of effort, but it's resolved all airball issues on the right ramp.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/38#post-5561129

any thought of selling this airball deflector?

#7947 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Getting balls jump off the right ramp. Anyone made a Perspex cover for the top?

Yes.

Coming soon

#7948 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

any thought of selling this airball deflector?

likely not since it was hand made and there is no way I would be able to ensure consistency if making more than 1.

#7949 1 year ago

Sent their tech support an email earlier today, no reply yet. Might give them a call tomorrow if I don't hear back.

#7950 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Spent this afternoon solving my R&M audio issues. Solution cost $10 I purchased this spacer from Amazon and bought 4 2" screws to accommodate the spacer/cabinet: amazon.com link »
Installation is a little tedious, here are some highlights:
- The speaker grill is stapled with 32 small staples! Removing them was a PITA
- Needed to move the shaker board over to accommodate the spacer. Simple.
- Decided to move the amp and fasten it to the wood divider with velcro (the amp is ultra light). Might come up with a better solution later. Having easy access to the amp controls from the coin door made a HUGE difference, since I could fiddle with the sound while the game was playing. I realize my location interferes with the coin box cover, but it doesn't matter since it's in my home, not an arcade.
- Dealing with the nuts below the cabinet was a PITA. They kept popping out if the screw wasn't spot-on, which is tough since the spacer holes are 3/4". On a couple, I simple used a washer and hex lock nut. It's rock solid which is all that matters...will likely clean it up later.
R&M went from sounding like a huge fart/turd to sounding awesome (and I don't have anti-rattle tape installed!). The components they use are really nice, however it's clear the speaker/amp combination REQUIRE a spacer like this. Again, now my game isn't convulsing/rattling and I don't have anti-rattle tape! I will likely still install anti-rattle tape to better secure the glass, but it's no longer a bandaid to the audio booming. Glass rattling is now rare, as it should be
Hope this helps!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great post. I'm curious, though, as to why you put lock nuts on a couple of the screws if they were long enough to attach to the t-nuts. Just extra mounting security?

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