Alexandria, VA
Thanks. I think the answer I'm getting is that I don't need to remove the backglass at all. I should leave it alone. I thought if I opened the speaker panel, it would just kind of fall down on its own.
(Topic ID: 257850)
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Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
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Quoted from Boatshoe:Thanks. I think the answer I'm getting is that I don't need to remove the backglass at all. I should leave it alone. I thought if I opened the speaker panel, it would just kind of fall down on its own.
It does not fall out when you flip down the speaker panel. Spooky should correct the video on their website as it does not apply to R&M
I went on Amazon and bought a 10ft USB extension cable for $8 and ran it from the backbox and down into coin door area. No need to mess with the backbox again unless troubleshooting. I'm lazy.
Quoted from DruTheFu:I went on Amazon and bought a 10ft USB extension cable for $8 and ran it from the backbox and down into coin door area. No need to mess with the backbox again unless troubleshooting. I'm lazy.
I'm lazy, too, but I'm even more cheap!
Although I do have R&M sitting where I can get at the whole thing easily, no moving other games outta the way. Mainly so as to see all the side art! But it helps with all the fiddling, too.
Alright, as most of you know, I (attempt) to make the manuals for the spooky games. They are extremely basic since I don't do this for a living. I have tried to make them full of the information that is needed.
If there are any suggestions please shoot me an email as to not clog up this thread
Thank you
Seems it is too large to attache, but this is the link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qLahfsbGeZUE7l4lo5Sl3jJaMcClAqag/view?usp=sharing
Added over 2 years ago:new link 4MB file
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m6vMJdtyK73i4vDZOPsIelG4JVEhigE6/view?usp=sharing
Yup, need a google account, and then after logging in it said access must be requested.
Thanks for making this!
Okay, not sure how to remove the restrictions. I tried to upload, but the file is 12mb and pinside upload is limited to 10.
Any help would be appreciated
Quoted from KingPinGames:okay, updated. please try again.
thank you
Wow, this contains a lot of good information. Thanks for putting it together!
I was curious about this and now the manual really has me wondering:
"Stacking an Adventure start on the Multiball start, along with making it quite a bit easier to make progress in the Adventure, will actually combine the two ball saver times"
This never happens for me, always starts at 10s. Is this an outdated rule or a bug? It's pretty easy to stack adv+mb; were 20sec ballsavers considered too generous?
Quoted from KingPinGames:okay, updated. please try again.
thank you
All good, thanks!
Quoted from KingPinGames:Alright, as most of you know, I (attempt) to make the manuals for the spooky games. They are extremely basic since I don't do this for a living. I have tried to make them full of the information that is needed.
If there are any suggestions please shoot me an email as to not clog up this thread
[email protected]
Thank you
Seems it is too large to attache, but this is the link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qLahfsbGeZUE7l4lo5Sl3jJaMcClAqag/view?usp=sharing
Even something basic is much better than nothing.
Three main suggestions:
1. Smaller page size. The page in this pdf is too unwieldy to be practical at 17" x 11". 14" x 8.5" would be much better, and even 11 x 8.5" wouldn't be terrible. This isn't a Williams WPC/WPC-S Schematic Manual.
2. Larger fonts. You have tons of white space on most pages. Use it.
3. The board diagrams would benefit substantially from illustrations instead of photos. It's really not *that* expensive to have 3 or 4 board illustrations done since most of them are just reused 2-4 times in the course of the instructions, and you'll likely be able to amortize the value across multiple Spooky pin manuals from here on out. Stern is still using the WRONG power supply illustration from 5 YEARS ago. So as long as it's close and the text is right, it's enough.
Quoted from KingPinGames:Okay, not sure how to remove the restrictions. I tried to upload, but the file is 12mb and pinside upload is limited to 10.
Any help would be appreciated
Here's a reduced version of the pdf. Click to open. 2.9MB.
The original size of 11.1MB was because you were using space-hogging PNGs for all the board pictures and the board pinout pages were pictures instead of text. Use high-quality JPGs in the future for the board pictures and you'll save a TON of space with the same picture quality. You really only need PNGs if you have to have transparency. You also had the Rick and Morty logo picture saved in the pdf twice, which was almost a meg right there.
Rick and Morty Manual-reduced.pdf
Here's one with a new cover, table of contents, and dimensions page as well as a fourth page showing what a difference either increased font or smaller page size (recommended) makes for readability.
Rick and Morty Manual-sample layout-pages.pdf
Quoted from PinMonk:Here's a reduced version of it. 2.9MB.
The original size of 11.1MB was because you were using space-hogging PNGs for all the board pictures and the board pinout pages were pictures instead of text. Use high-quality JPGs in the future for the board pictures and you'll save a TON of space with the same picture quality. You really only need PNGs if you have to have transparency. You also had the Rick and Morty logo picture saved in the pdf twice, which was aomost a meg right there.
[quoted image]
Ah, thank you for the help. I will see what I can do to improve some of these things.
Really great and I am sure everyone appreciates all the work you put into this, especially since you are doing it for the benefit of the community.
One small comment. The landscape page formatting is driving me nuts. Is that just me, or does everyone see it like that?
I’d love to actually print this out and put it in a binder.
Quoted from KingPinGames:Alright, as most of you know, I (attempt) to make the manuals for the spooky games. They are extremely basic since I don't do this for a living. I have tried to make them full of the information that is needed.
If there are any suggestions please shoot me an email as to not clog up this thread
[email protected]
Thank you
Seems it is too large to attache, but this is the link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qLahfsbGeZUE7l4lo5Sl3jJaMcClAqag/view?usp=sharing
Quoted from metallik:I was curious about this and now the manual really has me wondering:
"Stacking an Adventure start on the Multiball start, along with making it quite a bit easier to make progress in the Adventure, will actually combine the two ball saver times"
This never happens for me, always starts at 10s. Is this an outdated rule or a bug? It's pretty easy to stack adv+mb; were 20sec ballsavers considered too generous?
I've never seen it do this since I've owned my R&M.
Quoted from Jherre6:Really great and I am sure everyone appreciates all the work you put into this, especially since you are doing it for the benefit of the community.
One small comment. The landscape page formatting is driving me nuts. Is that just me, or does everyone see it like that?
I’d love to actually print this out and put it in a binder.
Yeah. It was done to mimic the jjp printed manuals since they are the very best of manuals. Also, I find myself using landscape on my phone, tablet, etc to get more on the page.
Sydney
Quoted from cooked71:Since the timer only shows a max 10s, does it count down then start again?
The timer can have more than 10 seconds if you change the default. But I don’t think it stacks.
The timer can theoretically show up to 99. It shows additive time correctly for multiball stacks.
Start gromflomite then bang on the meeseeks target to bring in mania before the first ballsaver expires and you'll see it add 10s on.
Quoted from Jherre6:... . The landscape page formatting is driving me nuts ... ... I’d love to actually print this out and put it in a binder.
Normal portrait format
<click> Yes!
Quoted from PinMonk:... Here's one with a new cover and table of contents page and a third page showing what a difference either increased font or smaller page size (recommended) makes for readability.[quoted image]
Full art cover!
<click> Yes!!
I’ve never had a jjp pinball and you made it. So let me stop complaining and just say thanks again. It’s always great to have a manual.
Quoted from KingPinGames:Yeah. It was done to mimic the jjp printed manuals since they are the very best of manuals. Also, I find myself using landscape on my phone, tablet, etc to get more on the page.
I've been searching for over an hour now, and for the life of me cannot find where to plug in the USB memory stick to update the code
YT video doesn't help at all - where is it?
Quoted from WJxxxx:I've been searching for over an hour now, and for the life of me cannot find where to plug in the USB memory stick to update the code
YT video doesn't help at all - where is it?
It took me a little while to find also. I’m not home so I can’t send a picture. It is at the bottom right of the board and when you put the stick in, it will be facing vertically from the floor to the ceiling (unlike on a Stern game where you are pushing the USB horizontally into the board). Hope that helps.
Quoted from WJxxxx:I've been searching for over an hour now, and for the life of me cannot find where to plug in the USB memory stick to update the code
YT video doesn't help at all - where is it?
Had the same issue. It is bottom right inside the speaker panel. There is a protruding metal cube on the board and it has 3 ports on the bottom. You insert the stick from the bottom - up.
Quoted from WJxxxx:I've been searching for over an hour now, and for the life of me cannot find where to plug in the USB memory stick to update the code
YT video doesn't help at all - where is it?
To expand on what the last poster said... use the keys hanging inside the coin door to open the part of the backbox that has the speakers and LCD. It folds down.
You'll see the bottom of the motherboard there. Many jacks are close to the right side, including USB ones, facing down. Bend down and look up and you'll see a little blue inside the socket for the pair of USB jacks. While the game is running, plug in your USB and it'll do the rest automatically.
Quoted from WJxxxx:I've been searching for over an hour now, and for the life of me cannot find where to plug in the USB memory stick to update the code
YT video doesn't help at all - where is it?
once you find it , get a usb extension and run it to the front of the cabinet.
Quoted from ezeltmann:once you find it , get a usb extension and run it to the front of the cabinet.
If you can, use a USB 3.0 rated cable in the blue port. They seem to work a little better.
Question: once portal is active, should it stay active? On the latest code I've been seeing it stop being active after a period of time (on same ball).
Today I experienced the magnet not coming on for multiple attempts. I will keep an eye on this and see if it is a gap issue, but it hadn't been an issue until today.
I have not had phantom flips.
As soon as you enter a dimension the portal gun power starts dropping. If you hit the spinner to charge it back to the top while still in the dimension, it'll stay fully charged for a while, allowing you to jump directly to a new dimension from the old one. However, if you screw around and don't hit the garage or recharge the gun with more spinner, it'll start losing power again. That's probably what you're seeing.
I've never had a charged gun lose power while not in a dimension.
Cool manual. One thing I noticed on page 7:
"Portal kickout - This scoop sends the ball flying towards the left flipper at a fast speed"
Shouldn't it say "lower right flipper"?
Quoted from PinMonk:Here's a reduced version of the pdf. Click to open. 2.9MB.
The original size of 11.1MB was because you were using space-hogging PNGs for all the board pictures and the board pinout pages were pictures instead of text. Use high-quality JPGs in the future for the board pictures and you'll save a TON of space with the same picture quality. You really only need PNGs if you have to have transparency. You also had the Rick and Morty logo picture saved in the pdf twice, which was almost a meg right there.
[quoted image]
Here's one with a new cover and table of contents page and a third page showing what a difference either increased font or smaller page size (recommended) makes for readability.
[quoted image]
Quoted from ForwardToThePast:Cool manual. One thing I noticed on page 7:
"Portal kickout - This scoop sends the ball flying towards the left flipper at a fast speed"
Shouldn't it say "lower right flipper"?
The portal uses the second trough to quickly serve a ball to the left flipper.
Quoted from metallik:As soon as you enter a dimension the portal gun power starts dropping. If you hit the spinner to charge it back to the top while still in the dimension, it'll stay fully charged for a while, allowing you to jump directly to a new dimension from the old one. However, if you screw around and don't hit the garage or recharge the gun with more spinner, it'll start losing power again. That's probably what you're seeing.
I've never had a charged gun lose power while not in a dimension.
Yeah, this is during the main dimension. Maybe there was a change to the setting that the power goes down over time any time? I'll keep an eye on it. I just don't know what the behavior is supposed to be. I don't recall seeing it happen in the past...but then, I also don't tend to keep the ball in play very long.
Quoted from ForwardToThePast:Cool manual. One thing I noticed on page 7:
"Portal kickout - This scoop sends the ball flying towards the left flipper at a fast speed"
Shouldn't it say "lower right flipper"?
I think you're looking at the return scoop description (one from the garage) Not the scoop in the middle
Quoted from ForwardToThePast:Cool manual. One thing I noticed on page 7:
"Portal kickout - This scoop sends the ball flying towards the left flipper at a fast speed"
Shouldn't it say "lower right flipper"?
Portal kickout is the garage return scoop on the left. Few lines down they mention the scoop between the Danesi Lock 2.0
Quoted from Zablon:Today I experienced the magnet not coming on for multiple attempts. I will keep an eye on this and see if it is a gap issue, but it hadn't been an issue until today
Oh, regarding this, I don't think the magnet works if the right flipper is up.
Something happened today, not that big of a deal, was wondering if anyone had this happen. During Blood Dome, I drained during the 10 seconds so i got an immortality save, finished the adventure (with shots still left on the left flipper to go), and after i hit the flooble crank twice, and got two flawless victories...doesnt make sense. But was curious if the flooble crank is the flawless victory shot afterwards? Thanks
Just got my machine and had a couple of more questions.
-The top right floor of my house is crooked, can that be adjusted? (see pic)
-Is my left ramp installed in the correct holes? (see pic)
Hitting the left & right ramp shots, the spinner shot and the garage shot have to be perfect otherwise you have no chance. Are there any adjustments to make it smoother or is this by design?
IMG_4439 (resized).jpgIMG_4444 (resized).jpgQuoted from bent98:Just got my machine and had a couple of more questions.
-The top right floor of my house is crooked, can that be adjusted? (see pic)
-Is my left ramp installed in the correct holes? (see pic)
Hitting the left & right ramp shots, the spinner shot and the garage shot have to be perfect otherwise you have no chance. Are there any adjustments to make it smoother or is this by design?[quoted image][quoted image]
What build number is your pin?
Oops, you're right. Thanks for the correction.
Quoted from jguzik420:Portal kickout is the garage return scoop on the left. Few lines down they mention the scoop between the Danesi Lock 2.0
Quoted from jonesjb:What build number is your pin?
527
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