San Francisco, CA
johnnyutah mine did too - coming to SF so maybe on the same truck!
and where'd you get those tikis?!
(Topic ID: 257850)
Linked Games
Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
Topic Gallery
Those wanting to plug in a 120v fan but not into the service port (as it is always on), do what I did and just unplug the game's power supply from the other (switched) port, and add a short extension cord or multiple outlet adapter to plug the power supply back into along with your fan!
Quoted from johnnyutah:#704 has been made and is expected to ship today! Time for some cocktails.
[quoted image]
Mine was supposed to deliver today too. Might even be on the same truck... but R&L called me today and said the truck hasn't checked in from Chicago so they rescheduled it for tomorrow 
Toronto, ON
Quoted from CashMoney:Mine was supposed to deliver today too. Might even be on the same truck... but R&L called me today and said the truck hasn't checked in from Chicago so they rescheduled it for tomorrow
All you guys getting delivery now - how long after you paid did it take to be built and sent on its way?
thanks!
Quoted from Beamer2007:All you guys getting delivery now - how long after you paid did it take to be built and sent on its way?
thanks!
About a week maybe 10 days
Edit, paid Apr 27, delivery due tomorrow...
Annecy
Quoted from genex:johnnyutah mine did too - coming to SF so maybe on the same truck!
and where'd you get those tikis?!
They are called Geeki Tikis and I got them on Amazon.
Geeki Tikis Rick & Morty Rick Mug | Official Rick & Morty Tiki Style Ceramic Mug | Holds 15 Ounces amazon.com link »
I bet our machines are on same truck!
Melbourne
Quoted from Whitewater:Just made my final payment for Standard #546 . I'm starting to get very excited the wait is almost over
Congrats!! Hope yours takes a quicker route to Australia than ours. From leaving Spooky to landing in Sydney took roughly 3 months, only a couple of days away now!!! If you’ve got the spare cash, I’d highly recommend ponying up for air freight. It’ll be good for your heart.
Quoted from dferg24:Hey guys, looking at buying a new in box from an owner who just received his but wants to sell it. Just wanted to confirm the warranty will transfer and what exactly the warranty period is. Thanks in advance!
Lucky You! 
It's a One Year Warranty (described on Spooky website).
Just contact Spooky directly to ensure that the warranty can be transferred over to you.
Another happy R&M owner here now that I installed a R&M rollover set (of 4) from Sonic !
The ball would often get hung up on the outer lane switch farthest top right of the PF, and my diverter wouldn't always trigger closed. Now the ball no longer gets hung up over there AND the diverter has closed as it should every time so far.
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:From leaving Spooky to landing in Sydney took roughly 3 months,
International shipping is completely screwed at the moment.
I had 6 pins ready to leave Los Angeles in November ... they left last month.
W
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Quoted from orlandu81:Another happy R&M owner here now that I installed a R&M rollover set (of 4) from Sonic !
The ball would often get hung up on the outer lane switch farthest top right of the PF, and my diverter wouldn't always trigger closed. Now the ball no longer gets hung up over there AND the diverter has closed as it should every time so far.
Thanks man...glad to help...you guys can imagine what I'm doing right now...yep, making more...these rollovers are about 90% of our business right now!
Matt
Got myself a temperature gun!
Played for about 15-20 minutes, and then checked the temperature. The left was about 140F and right was about 150-160F.
Is this normal, high?
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Got myself a temperature gun!
Played for about 15-20 minutes, and then checked the temperature. The left was about 140F and right was about 150-160F.
Is this normal, high?
For 20 minutes that's about right if you aren't a trap player. If you trap up a lot, the temps would rise faster.
Quoted from PinMonk:For 20 minutes that's about right if you aren't a trap player. If you trap up a lot, the temps would rise faster.
With your fans, what doesn't bring the temperatures down to?
Quoted from WizardsCastle:With your fans, what doesn't bring the temperatures down to?
Well below the threshold of fade which most people start noticing around 140F. Depending on what kind of player you are, on Spooky with a Tibetan Breeze kit you're looking at, 100-120F, but mostly around 110F, although it may be even lower with the 50% more CFM fans that are now standard across all the kits as of a few weeks ago. I have kits out on Spooky machines with the higher CFM fans, but haven't temp tested them yet. At the 20 minute mark you checked, it likely would still be in the 90F range cooled.
Quoted from PinMonk:Well below the threshold of fade which most people start noticing around 140F. Depending on what kind of player you are, on Spooky with a Tibetan Breeze kit you're looking at, 100-120F, but mostly around 110F, although it may be even lower with the 50% more CFM fans that are now standard across all the kits as of a few weeks ago. I have kits out on Spooky machines with the higher CFM fans, but haven't temp tested them yet. At the 20 minute mark you checked, it likely would still be in the 90F range cooled.
When are they going back up on your site?
Quoted from WizardsCastle:When are they going back up on your site?
I don't have an exact date, but I'm shooting for a week or two. They're already out being tested in the field and so far, so good. The jjGnR ones go up again tomorrow, so the Rick and Morty ones shouldn't be too far behind.
Quoted from rotordave:International shipping is completely screwed at the moment.
I had 6 pins ready to leave Los Angeles in November ... they left last month.
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And on that timely topic.... I shipped a set of R&M rollovers to poor Eagle14 on 2/23....right before bed ( just a few hours ago) he informs me he finally got them.....that may be the record for me....11 weeks.....crazy....tracking went dead in March showing it was in China of all places (he's in Australia)...glad he finally got them.....
Matt
M&M Creations
The noob noob plastic on mine broke last October and I wasn't the first owner. While I inquired about the same beforehand, when the plastic broke, I was told since I wasn't the first owner, they would have to charge the part + shipping. Oh well.
Quoted from dferg24:Thanks everyone for the responses regarding the warranty. Spookyluke responded very quickly and advised that while the warranty doesn’t technically transfer they would do all they could to help if any issues arise.
Quoted from bitternerd:Bug
Not sure where else to report potential bug
In competition mode entering a new dimension causes reset. All good again after turning comp off.
I had the same problem with mine and e-mailed Spooky about it so they are aware of the problem.
Quoted from Sonic:And on that timely topic.... I shipped a set of R&M rollovers to poor Eagle14 on 2/23....right before bed ( just a few hours ago) he informs me he finally got them.....that may be the record for me....11 weeks.....crazy....tracking went dead in March showing it was in China of all places (he's in Australia)...glad he finally got them.....
Matt
M&M Creations
I purchased a set of 4 MRS switches for my RnM and they work great/are very easy to install. I highly recommend them.
IMG_1057 (resized).jpgIMG_1058 (resized).jpgHow hard is it to take the side rails off. Any tips and/or tricks? I wanted to add some mylar under/around the flipper buttons before its gets played.
Hopefully mine will arrive soon (#707 BSE), I think they are waiting to send some on one truck since I know there are a few coming to Ohio in the last 50 of the run.
No need to take rails off to apply a cover. You can use the clear cling vinyl I use on all my games. Here is a similar product.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=138
Quoted from MrCleanHead:How hard is it to take the side rails off. Any tips and/or tricks? I wanted to add some mylar under/around the flipper buttons before its gets played.
Hopefully mine will arrive soon (#707 BSE), I think they are waiting to send some on one truck since I know there are a few coming to Ohio in the last 50 of the run.
Wien
Quoted from rotordave:International shipping is completely screwed at the moment.
I had 6 pins ready to leave Los Angeles in November ... they left last month.
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F
rd
Holy moly, I feel you!
Any news about the shipment to mainland Europe?
Quoted from luvthatapex2:No need to take rails off to apply a cover. You can use the clear cling vinyl I use on all my games. Here is a similar product.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=138
The BSE has the laser cut rails that go around the flipper buttons. The were some owners that reported ware on the graphic in this area and commented that they wish they would have been pro active on the ware.
Quoted from MrCleanHead:How hard is it to take the side rails off. Any tips and/or tricks? I wanted to add some mylar under/around the flipper buttons before its gets played.
Hopefully mine will arrive soon (#707 BSE), I think they are waiting to send some on one truck since I know there are a few coming to Ohio in the last 50 of the run.
Remove lockdown bar. Three screws up each side, they come right out.
I put the lit panels in there.
Quoted from razorsedge:Remove lockdown bar. Three screws up each side, they come right out.
I put the lit panels in there.
Sounds simple enough, Thanks!
Okay i did some testing....on agressive...high power...default timings
Right flipper is solid no drops. Left flipper does this. Note that while it took 5-6 taps in the video...sometimes it happens first or 2nd try
Thoughts? Only thing i notice is the coils sound different from left to right. EoS seems pretty much the same on both.
Additionally...this is what i see occasionally with the right orbit. I tested the MRs 50 or so times and could not force a failure. Whatever this is happens deeper in the game. No portal active...but diverter doesn't activate. I played a few games with the glass off until it happened. And at this precise moment i did it 10 or 12 times in a row with no diverter activation.
Sorry for the vimeos i dont have youtube.
Quoted from Zablon:Okay i did some testing....on agressive...high power...default timings
Right flipper is solid no drops. Left flipper does this. Note that while it took 5-6 taps in the video...sometimes it happens first or 2nd try
https://vimeo.com/546608391
Thoughts? Only thing i notice is the coils sound different from left to right. EoS seems pretty much the same on both.
Almost seems like the EOS on the left flipper isn't engaged. Have you verified it fires when the flipper flips at the end of the flipper stroke (and remains on while the flipper is held)?
Tip: If you have a led that isn't displaying a certain color properly... 9 times out of 10, it's due to the rubber insulator ring becoming loose. Unscrew the led, and twist the rubber so it is tight against the LED. Reattach the wire and screw the led back into the playfield.
Someone mark this as a key post.
Quoted from jonesjb:Tip: If you have a led that isn't displaying a certain color properly... 9 times out of 10, it's due to the rubber insulator ring becoming loose. Unscrew the led, and twist the rubber so it is tight against the LED. Reattach the wire and screw the led back into the playfield.
Someone mark this as a key post.
What's the purpose of the rubber ring? I thought it was just to dampen vibration?
Quoted from PinMonk:What's the purpose of the rubber ring? I thought it was just to dampen vibration?
It is, but if it gets loose (from the led itself), it will vibrate and the wire connection will loosen/become unreliable.
Quoted from Zablon:Okay i did some testing....on agressive...high power...default timings
Right flipper is solid no drops. Left flipper does this. Note that while it took 5-6 taps in the video...sometimes it happens first or 2nd try
https://vimeo.com/546608391
Thoughts? Only thing i notice is the coils sound different from left to right. EoS seems pretty much the same on both.
When you press a flipper down with your meaty appendage, you’re in the way longer than the “recovery flip” lasts, so the flipper stays down. You can repeat the same behavior with any game using single coil PWM.
Quoted from epthegeek:When you press a flipper down with your meaty appendage, you’re in the way longer than the “recovery flip” lasts, so the flipper stays down. You can repeat the same behavior with any game using single coil PWM.
Are you referring to it staying down? Or the drop? I can't repeat this on the right flipper (I'm not hitting the flipper hard). I'm not really worried about how it is staying down, as I have seen that it does indeed pick back up. I'm more concerned about the initial drop.
Quoted from jonesjb:It is, but if it gets loose (from the led itself), it will vibrate and the wire connection will loosen/become unreliable.
But if you're to the point where the wire has loosened, don't you need to reflow the solder to the LED board before tightening the connection?
Quoted from jonesjb:Tip: If you have a led that isn't displaying a certain color properly... 9 times out of 10, it's due to the rubber insulator ring becoming loose. Unscrew the led, and twist the rubber so it is tight against the LED. Reattach the wire and screw the led back into the playfield.
Someone mark this as a key post.
Thanks - I have one LED behaving slightly weird on the portal gun charge and I will try this on the weekend!
Quoted from PinMonk:But if you're to the point where the wire has loosened, don't you need to reflow the solder to the LED board before tightening the connection?
Nope, for some reason just tightening the rubber to the led seems to work.
Quoted from CashMoney:#706 IN DA HOUSE BIIIIIIIITCH!
Also, I'm pretty sure my machine just yelled out "AIDS!" randomly at some point.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Send it back it's defective!
Quoted from CashMoney:Also, I'm pretty sure my machine just yelled out "AIDS!" randomly at some point.
I think that means you win!
Quoted from jonesjb:Nope, for some reason just tightening the rubber to the led seems to work.
Hmm. Maybe it's pressing the wires to the contact pads with pressure.
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