I don't think it looks good, really. No matter what is done it will be a light blocker that looks quite unappealing compared to the correct part, and obscures view of the ball path.

Besides, in my assesment that part will still eventually crack in the same place, if anchors are made tight. 301 will still work harden and eventually become quite brittle with the very concentrated cold working that will occur. The only solution to the concentrated stress is spreading the stress, which is done by Releasing the Tension on the Anchors. Problem is that with Metal edges this will now chew away plastic. It is a very bad idea all round, if all is considered.

We will see how long before cracking develops I guess. Imho (as an engineer) it is a flawed "solution" to a Non issue. In the case of an issue for some it was solved, quite simply by the advice from success in releasing unwarranted tension.

All this bit of metal does is detract from asthetics and introduce new issues (by introducing hard metal that will cause wear now where it works against plastic).

Each to their own beliefs these days though by the seems. Ironically the proof will only be in the pudding for some, hopefully it tastes good with that recipie, but I won't be eating it Lol

I digress...

Looks perfect, TAKE My MONEY ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Im ready to buy.

I agree that it doesn’t look great. But.... it also doesn’t look horrible and at least you know it won’t crack.

So for anyone wanting a different solution for now, that’s not too costly, this is great option.

I think it’s awesome that someone here on the thread just went ahead and tried to make something that’s an improvement and is offering it to everyone for here for a very reasonable price. toyotaboy nice work!

fwiw, I'm in razorsedge camp on this one (releasing the unwarranted tension is the way to go). If mine ever breaks, I'll just get the Spooky part from PBL and make sure the tension is reasonable. The bobble ship doesn't do much for me as a feature, so keeping with the original makes more sense to me. **IF** making it less attractive enabled a more exciting ship movement, then I'd be all in. Whatever floats peoples boats I guess...

Don't really like the look of the mount also.
I just cut the rod a lil, the mount will not be bend so much anymore.

It functioned as designed for a period of time and then started malfunctioning.

Have you checked (and re-seated) the connections and run through the switch tests?

Agree.

Lift the playfield and just push on all the connections around the horseshoe if you can't trace the horseshoe optos to where they plug in.

I had an opto issue (after the game played fine for the first few weeks) and that's what I did. Hopefully it's that simple.

Yup, the switch tests are what confirmed the RHS was actually triggering the LHS in my first post.

Let me see if I can u/l this vid of what is occurring from underneath.

Get Schwifty adventure + multiball + strobe dimension is a pretty cool experience.

Occurs on startup. Opto/Target issue RHS of ship orbit.

Even traced them on the other end. Unless I traced them back to the wrong board I'd say there pretty solid.

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That’s the light board that controls your RGB LEDs. The optos don’t run to that board.

Hey all you Mortys... our High Voltage Board Cover is available now for pre-order. Protect your HV board from accidental tool drops or balls being left in the trough when you tip up the playfield. Slips right over the HV board with combed opening for wires. Four feet have screw holes to hold it down but it sits right in place without any fasteners. Since the top is translucent you can still see the status light.

We'll be fillings these orders in batches as we get enough orders for acrylic processing (cutting and engraving) but I'm planning on 3-4 weeks for the first batch.

Purple body with purple translucent cover is the option we're offering at this time but here is a sample of a green neon cover. If you want this one-off color PM me.

https://pinballmods.co/rick-and-morty-pinball-mods/high-voltage-cover-rick-morty

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Hey that looks cool!!

Great Idea to have that protected too!!

Im in, let us know when its time to order!

Awesome! Great work.

Awesome.

I have always believed deeply in protecting my hole.

I am sure Kerry or one of the testers will chime in whenever they become available.

I have tested my prototype hundreds of games now, and made a drawing to share. There are options depending on methods of manufacture. For example, cutting the full round hole accurately... two pieces meant much more rapidly it could be hand cut. Versus making the plate one piece means rapid accurate assembly is much easier, more practical if profile cutting is an option. This is the dotted line, I made the plate aspect in two parts when I created this, it meant I could use the grinder to rapidly trim back to the arc. It was much more hassle to get welded together perfectly square and flush though. Overall it depends on your manufacturing tools/methods. I assume Kerry is using the one piece plate by profile cutting, but I do not know.

I am also not sure how much variance there will be. Kerry has countersunk screws in the two added screw positions underneath the subway, which could be a fair thing to add. It is possible for the ramp to be screwed down in a different position, which could affect the screw head clearance that I ensured for my own instance when I fitted this to my game. The ball can not touch my screw heads, but that might not be the case for all copies given the same part. Countersunk screws plus the large clearance for the existing back holes... should be all good!

Is there a wiring diagram available anywhere?

There is no manual as far as I understand but the boards are all listed here: https://www.multimorphic.com/category/circuit-boards/

You can see the boards under the playfield versus what is in the backbox and what can control what. I know in the backbox there are two PD-16s and a P3-ROC. I'm guessing there are SW-16's under the playfield.

Your optos run to a board that looks like this. It’s connected to a SW 16 board. This is from my homebrew not R&M but it’s the same boards. Regardless I am fairly certain the connection issue is at the optos themselves not the opto board. Or at least that’s more likely.

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Optos look like this. There is a send (white) and a receive (black). Check the connection on the optos themselves.

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I think I just sliced my hand on the top of those ball guides

Haha I’ve done it several times. Don’t worry the next version will be laser cut. Metal work certainly isn’t my strong suit.

Update. I dont have a HUO, but play on location and its brutal. My fave pin..

epthegeek started MB during Pirates. The scoop literally stopped working. Worked fine after drain.

Wow - you guys went crazy on the rollover orders : ) I'm down to my last order to build/ship....that was a lot of orders to fill - but on that point, I've sent out a ton of R&M MRS'....everyone getting them, working good...all copacetic?

Matt
M&M Creations

Mine finally came in last week. Lost in transit for a while, but the package arrived in tact. Haven't installed yet.

#493 picked up and on the way to Illinois.

I hope you keep making them Matt. I'll need some for my R&M when I get it.

I hope everyone can make everything R&M until the games are all made. It shouldnt stop until the last R&M drops!

Yup, traced them back to the opto board, while some were loose error occurs even after reseating.

Can you take a look at this pic and help me ID the opto connection directly?

Also did you see the video of what it does on start-up?

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I'll second that!

So the optos will be topside mounted/accessible. Remove the plastic where the space ship is and around the inner orbit and you will see them.

Well look at that... There is a long ramp screw driven into the opto playfield side board...

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I'm no expert. But. I am guessing that's why your Opto is screwed up.

I got on the horn with support... They ID'd it as a bad drop target switch. New one is in the mail =)

Picked up #488 today! Waiting to beg a stranger to help me load it into the house.

Where can these be ordered? I missed it.

You can just PM me...they are all handbuilt to order....

Thanks!

Matt

What product from Back Alley are you referring to???

he's not. Look at the post above yours... that's the proper Matt in this context

Finally got it in and up and running. So far no issues other than the slingshot needs the gap adjusted.

The flippers are still the long bushings, but it seems to shoot fine, I'm not having any issue getting up ramps or around orbits. They are indeed tight shots.

Anyone know if the keep the versions updated as they box them?

#434 arrived today. Too wide to get in the door due to the top and bottom cardboard ends, so we had to unbox in the garage. Not a problem, but something for future owners to consider.

Girlfriend fired it up to play a game before cleanup. Not a great first impression so far.

Game killed and restarted itself on the second ball.

Audio is completely absent during cutscenes like multi-ball and the final match sequence.

The rattling glass is insane. The only way to keep this from happening out of the box is to keep the volume at 3, at which point the game is inaudible over the box fan running full blast inside the machine.

Also, the lock bar doesn’t seem to want to actually latch down without a significant amount of force. I tried to have a look of there was anything impeding it but can’t see anything that would cause it. Once it’s latched, it sticks up considerably. I’m not sure if that’s the design or if something is off.

Admittedly this is a post in frustration after a long afternoon of getting it downstairs and set up. Also, is this heavier than stern games, because those were cakewalks compared to this beast.

Most of these can be resolved either by code updates or me dumping more money into mods, but I assumed I’d be able to enjoy this for at least a few weeks without the extra mods.

Still excited to experience the joy, eventually.

I would say it is lighter than most. I basically was moving this around by myself. It is heavier in the front than the back which is unusual.

The lockbar latches are...interesting. They do latch hard, but the bar should be flush. You probably have something in the way, and should double check before committing to latching it.

Go trhough and check all your connections. When I opened the backbox the display cable was too short and came off. I pulled more through and it is fine now. Then I went through the backbox and under pf and pushed/squeezed all the connectors before I ever turned it on.

Does this look correct?

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Your lock bar needs to snug against the rails that hold the glass. Is your glass pushed all the way up? The glass on mine doesn’t go all the way up the channels unless it’s (the game)almost perfectly level side to side. I discovered this after moving my game to a different spot in the basement that had a different slope. Once I levelled it the glass slid all the way up.