(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

2 years ago


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#15901 5 months ago
Quoted from splitcms:

Any recommendations on a specific type of usb stick to use to update code? I received the game today and tried using the stick that I update all my other games with but it doesn’t seem to work on Rick and morty. Thanks.

format fat32, and try to use a usb 3.0 stick 8gb - 16gb should be fine

#15902 5 months ago

Finished up my final 'fix' for R&M. Using fake quotes as it's more of an optional fix.

Originally I had a problem staging the right flippers. I modified the original switch by soldering an additional leaf to the leaf that contacts the flipper button to make it longer and have better contact. It was okay but still wasn't quite long enough - it only reached half way up the button plunger and I figured the edge of the leaf would eventually wear and cause problems.

So I bought a BW dual flipper switch with a really long leaf and a Stern double flipper switch because Scott mentioned that the BW switch has too much resistance and would not work out well.

Pic 1 - The Stern and BW switches side by side.

Pic 2 - The dissection in progress.

Pic 3 - The reassembled/modified Stern switch.

Pic 4 - I used a screw to extend the flipper button plunger to get better contact with the extended leaf and make easy adjustments for sensitivity.

Got it all soldered up and reassembled and a few tweaks later was staging with ease.

IMG_6357 (resized).jpegIMG_6359 (resized).jpegIMG_6360 (resized).jpegIMG_6367 (resized).jpeg

#15903 5 months ago

Installed.

IMG_6372 (resized).JPG
#15904 5 months ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

You won't be sorry, my machine is the one in Matt's post but note I swapped two of the uppers for the two inlane switches since that photo was posted. You will want the inlane switches to face down towards the player to avoid interference with the antigravity magnet on the right side.
I'm super happy with the switches...even the lower ones which I understand are mostly cosmetic.

I have noticed that the inlane MRS gets triggered when the magna-save is pressed. I'll leave the MRS switch in and play for a few weeks but I may end up going back to the old switch on that inlane.

#15905 5 months ago
Quoted from Lounge:

I have noticed that the inlane MRS gets triggered when the magna-save is pressed. I'll leave the MRS switch in and play for a few weeks but I may end up going back to the old switch on that inlane.

Mine was fixed when I reversed the orientation/swapped with one of the uppers that had the reversed orientation so I wouldn't have to drill new holes.

If the magnet on the switch is facing down towards the player, you shouldn't have any MRS triggering when using the magna save. At least it hasn't happened to me since I changed the orientation.

#15906 5 months ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Finished up my final 'fix' for R&M. Using fake quotes as it's more of an optional fix.
Originally I had a problem staging the right flippers. I modified the original switch by soldering an additional leaf to the leaf that contacts the flipper button to make it longer and have better contact. It was okay but still wasn't quite long enough - it only reached half way up the button plunger and I figured the edge of the leaf would eventually wear and cause problems.
So I bought a BW dual flipper switch with a really long leaf and a Stern double flipper switch because Scott mentioned that the BW switch has too much resistance and would not work out well.
Pic 1 - The Stern and BW switches side by side.
Pic 2 - The dissection in progress.
Pic 3 - The reassembled/modified Stern switch.
Pic 4 - I used a screw to extend the flipper button plunger to get better contact with the extended leaf and make easy adjustments for sensitivity.
Got it all soldered up and reassembled and a few tweaks later was staging with ease.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm confused why you modified the switch.

Scott said to just get a Stern double blade switch like this:

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.html

#15907 5 months ago

Blue Crystal Mod (Flasher Only).

Personally, I don't like it as much. I actually have both the stock and mod crystals always lit blue. However, for those of you looking for just a Flasher version, here is what I did. Note, this almost identical to how the original mod worked/installed. The main difference is the heavier gage wire, 12V led strip, and connecting to the stock crystal flasher circuit opposed to the node board.

1. Remove the entire mod from the machine (including the wire harness). Make sure to plug the original 2 pin connector back into the node board. If you have questions, just follow the original mod instructions in reverse.

2. Remove the led strip and wires from the crystal mod.

3. Use a 3/32 (or 7/64) drill bit to open up the wire holes on the crystal mod. Note, this is required to accommodate the 18 gauge wire (12v Flasher requires heavier gauge wire). See attached picture.

4. Fabricate new crystal lighting. See attached picture. Note, I used 18 gauge stranded wire cut to 14" lengths. Strip/Tin both ends of wire. Attach to LED strip. Note, I bought a reel from Amazon, 12v blue. Again, See pictures.

5. Fabricate new wiring harness. Again, use 18 gauge wire, strip/tin only one end as the other end will have an IDC connector. The IDC connectors can be found at Pinball Life (0.156" IDC 2-Position Connector for 18 Gauge Wire). Also get a 2-pin male/male Z connector. Cut length of wire to ~20".

6. Install mod. Feed wires through playfield and mount crystal. Connect wiring harness to stock blue crystal Flasher circuit. See attached pic.
16301749788297053134120388078733 (resized).jpg20210828_090453 (resized).jpg20210828_115617 (resized).jpg

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#15908 5 months ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Blue Crystal Mod (Flasher Only).


Personally, I don't like it as much. I actually have both the stock and mod crystals always lit blue. However, for those of you looking for just a Flasher version, here is what I did.
1. Remove the entire mod from the machine (including the wire harness). Make sure to plug the original 2 pin connector back into the node board. If you have questions, just follow the original mod instructions in reverse.
2. Remove the led strip and wires from the crystal mod.
3. Use a 3/32 (or 7/64) drill bit to open up the wire holes on the crystal mod. Note, this is required to accommodate the 18 gauge wire (12v Flasher requires heavier gauge wire). See attached picture.
4. Fabricate new crystal lighting. See attached picture. Note, I used 18 gauge stranded wire cut to 14" lengths. Strip/Tin both ends of wire. Attach to LED strip. Note, I bought a reel from Amazon, 12v blue. Again, See pictures.
5. Fabricate new wiring harness. Again, use 18 gauge wire, strip/tin only one end as the other end will have an IDC connector. The IDC connectors can be found at Pinball Life (0.156" IDC 2-Position Connector for 18 Gauge Wire). Also get a 2-pin male/male Z connector. Cut length of wire to ~20".
6. Install mod. Feed wires through playfield and mount crystal. Connect wiring harness to stock blue crystal Flasher circuit. See attached pic.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Will you be offering this variation going forward? If so, can there be an option for us to send the existing one back to be modified (for a reasonable fee)?

#15909 5 months ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Will you be offering this variation going forward? If so, can there be an option for us to send the existing one back to be modified (for a reasonable fee)?

Again, there was a reason I went the route I did with this mod. I am only posting this 12v flasher option as there have been a few people interested. If I can source some higher quality 12v strips I might make a flasher only version in the future. Again, thanks to all that have supported this project. Definitely some lessons learned on my end.

#15910 5 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I'm confused why you modified the switch.
Scott said to just get a Stern double blade switch like this:
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.html

The length of the blade on the Stern switch is too short to connect to the button plunger.

#15911 5 months ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

If the magnet on the switch is facing down towards the player, you shouldn't have any MRS triggering when using the magna save.

I trimmed the mount and flipped the switch (magnet down) and it still triggers.

It doesn’t really change the game much. I just get more slam saves now

#15912 5 months ago
Quoted from Lounge:

I trimmed the mount and flipped the switch (magnet down) and it still triggers.
It doesn’t really change the game much. I just get more slam saves now

Really? That's a bummer and a surprise. Could your magnet output from the magna-save be casting a wider net than mine? Not a big deal either way like you said, but this does peak my curiosity on the matter.

#15913 5 months ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Really? That's a bummer and a surprise. Could your magnet output from the magna-save be casting a wider net than mine? Not a big deal either way like you said, but this does peak my curiosity on the matter.

I think I can turn it down in the settings. Have to check.

#15914 5 months ago
Quoted from Lounge:

The length of the blade on the Stern switch is too short to connect to the button plunger.

Really???

Shitty! Scott told me that was the part I needed, even said he was installing them in his own personal game.

I bought a set, but didn't get around to installing.

#15915 5 months ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Again, there was a reason I went the route I did with this mod. I am only posting this 12v flasher option as there have been a few people interested. If I can source some higher quality 12v strips I might make a flasher only version in the future. Again, thanks to all that have supported this project. Definitely some lessons learned on my end.

Well I appreciate the work you're doing as I didn't want it always on either (for a couple reasons).

I was hoping there might be a way to simply have it piggyback an existing rgb insert or GI in this game but I suppose it's not as easy as in the old days.

This way you'd have some movement of light in the crystal and a complete shutdown along with every other light in the game after each ball.

Thx for the efforts.

#15916 5 months ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Really? That's a bummer and a surprise. Could your magnet output from the magna-save be casting a wider net than mine? Not a big deal either way like you said, but this does peak my curiosity on the matter.

Seems like a lot of fussing around and expense to replace what was a perfectly working factory inlane switch.

#15917 5 months ago
Quoted from Manic:

Well I appreciate the work you're doing as I didn't want it always on either (for a couple reasons).
I was hoping there might be a way to simply have it piggyback an existing rgb insert or GI in this game but I suppose it's not as easy as in the old days.
This way you'd have some movement of light in the crystal and a complete shutdown along with every other light in the game after each ball.
Thx for the efforts.

I will continue to explore options. Don't give up hope yet.

#15918 5 months ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Blue Crystal Mod (Flasher Only).

Thanks for looking into this. It's been a busy weekend for me as my daughter is visiting from STEM academy / college but I hope to work on this later this week.

#15919 5 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Seems like a lot of fussing around and expense to replace what was a perfectly working factory inlane switch.

No fuss here, was easy to do and looks great. Worth it IMO.

#15920 5 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Really???
Shitty! Scott told me that was the part I needed, even said he was installing them in his own personal game.
I bought a set, but didn't get around to installing.

I wanted to use the existing screw holes. I’m sure it would work fine if you don’t mind moving the switch up.

#15921 5 months ago
Quoted from Lounge:

I have noticed that the inlane MRS gets triggered when the magna-save is pressed. I'll leave the MRS switch in and play for a few weeks but I may end up going back to the old switch on that inlane.

When I got the MRS switches I loved them so much, I put one in my homebrew machine where I was having issues with the ball hopping a rollover switch. The MRS was too close to a pop bumper and I was getting all kinds of false hits on the MRS (which triggered a release on the locked balls, oh no!).

My solution was to use magnetic shielding! I put some around the bottom of the bumper, and covered the underside of the MRS. Probably overkill to do both, but it works perfectly and no false positives!

amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »

#15922 5 months ago
Quoted from avanwinkle:

When I got the MRS switches I loved them so much, I put one in my homebrew machine where I was having issues with the ball hopping a rollover switch. The MRS was too close to a pop bumper and I was getting all kinds of false hits on the MRS (which triggered a release on the locked balls, oh no!).
My solution was to use magnetic shielding! I put some around the bottom of the bumper, and covered the underside of the MRS. Probably overkill to do both, but it works perfectly and no false positives!
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »

Fantastic - thanks for that. I’ll give it a try.

#15923 5 months ago

Deleted

#15925 4 months ago
Quoted from toddsolus:

Hey all...I lost power on my right side solenoids. Flipper ,sling,eject,etc..
where are the fuses located? so I found the fuse....tiny little thing...I just can't read what size fuse it is...because I am old and blind..
someone can help me?
Thanks

T4 250v

I've had the fuse blow twice now, once on the left side and once on the right. Both times as I removed the fuse it slipped out of the puller and fell through the hole into the cabinet. First time I spent and extra 45 minutes searching and eventually found it under the high-voltage circuit board (which I had to remove). second time I searched again for like 45 minutes until I realized the pf was in the down position and the fuse probably fell into the house somewhere. Still haven't found it grrrr! Needless to say, I recommend covering the holes before pulling the fuse. Otherwise, if you're like me, it could drive you nuts knowing there's a dead fuse rolling about somewhere, waiting to short out some random circuit

#15926 4 months ago
Quoted from avanwinkle:

When I got the MRS switches I loved them so much, I put one in my homebrew machine where I was having issues with the ball hopping a rollover switch. The MRS was too close to a pop bumper and I was getting all kinds of false hits on the MRS (which triggered a release on the locked balls, oh no!).
My solution was to use magnetic shielding! I put some around the bottom of the bumper, and covered the underside of the MRS. Probably overkill to do both, but it works perfectly and no false positives!
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »

Where applications are dangerously close to big electromagnets - we recommend using the tape - it can help. That said, this would be only the second time we've heard about the tape being applied. This is why we always ask, in detail - often with pics, about where the customer plans on using the MRS to make sure the application will work properly, as well as install properly. Sometimes folks order MRS' and put them in applications we don't know about.....In Lounge application - he merely needs to have the magnet sit on the other side of the slot by rotating the MRS 180deg, or swap with a rollover in the upper section of the playfield that has the magnet 'in' towards the mounting tab. There are several varieties of rollovers for this reason - tab left, tab right or mag in or mag out (as well as sensitivity AND circuitry differences for the different switch matrices pins employ)....for the R&M anti-gravity lane - we'll make sure a mag-in rollover is applied - something we didn't know prior to orlandu81 experience. But in the end - we always provide an email and phone number and always ask for details of the application.

Matt

#15927 4 months ago
Quoted from Sonic:

In Lounge application - he merely needs to have the magnet sit on the other side of the slot by rotating the MRS 180deg, or swap with a rollover in the upper section of the playfield that has the magnet 'in' towards the mounting tab. There are several varieties of rollovers for this reason - tab left, tab right or mag in or mag out (as well as sensitivity AND circuitry differences for the different switch matrices pins employ)....for the R&M anti-gravity lane - we'll make sure a mag-in rollover is applied - something we didn't know prior to orlandu81 experience.

I trimmed the mounting tab and flipped the switch to mag on the bottom. Emailed you a video of the actuation. It’s really not a big deal. I’ll try the tape solution or if you want me to test a new design I’d be willing to be the guinea pig. Either way - no sweat.

#15928 4 months ago

Hello just checking in to see if anyone has used the flipper cooling fans? Are they needed and worth it ?

Thanks Brett

#15929 4 months ago
Quoted from Vans:

Hello just checking in to see if anyone has used the flipper cooling fans? Are they needed and worth it ?
Thanks Brett

I don't have them and don't see any issues. I have the x spacers though and that really helped my flipper strength.

#15930 4 months ago
Quoted from Vans:

Hello just checking in to see if anyone has used the flipper cooling fans? Are they needed and worth it ?
Thanks Brett

Printed the thingiverse coolerholders and bought some coolers for about 20$

Installation is 15 Minutes and it's pretty perfect now

#15931 4 months ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Printed the thingiverse coolerholders and bought some coolers for about 20$
Installation is 15 Minutes and it's pretty perfect now

pics?

#15932 4 months ago

In about 2 hours (when i finished my workingday) i can Share some Pics

#15933 4 months ago

So is R&M worth putting a shaker motor in? Is it well integrated with the coding?

TIA

#15934 4 months ago

I haven’t played one that DIDN’T have one. What’s the question again?

#15935 4 months ago

The bass from the sound system gives plenty of shake even at low volume so I've felt no need to add a shaker

That said, I'm curious which parts of the game are coded for one...

#15936 4 months ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

So is R&M worth putting a shaker motor in? Is it well integrated with the coding?
TIA

Shaker is an absolute must!!

#15937 4 months ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

So is R&M worth putting a shaker motor in? Is it well integrated with the coding?
TIA

Absolutely it is

11
#15938 4 months ago

Don’t post often but wanted to say the R&M 146 is finally home. Haven’t had time to set it up completely and get it dialed in. Hopefully this weekend.

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#15939 4 months ago

DIY Coilcooler

IMG_20210831_200136 (resized).jpgIMG_20210831_200143 (resized).jpg
#15940 4 months ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Has anyone hooked up an external powered sub like the Polk PSW10 to their R&M yet? If so could you explain how you did it, thanks.

The amplifier in R&M has an auxiliary output, so connect your sub direct to that and you're good to go!

IMG_8520 (resized).jpg
#15941 4 months ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

DIY Coilcooler
[quoted image][quoted image]

I recognize those instructions!

Matt

#15942 4 months ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

The amplifier in R&M has an auxiliary output, so connect your sub direct to that and you're good to go!
[quoted image]

Just a quick clarification. That is an Aux input for the amp and will not work for a subwoofer. To properly put a sub on this game, just get an RCA splitter and tap off the incoming signal to the amp.
--Scott

#15943 4 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Just a quick clarification. That is an Aux input for the amp and will not work for a subwoofer. To properly put a sub on this game, just get an RCA splitter and tap off the incoming signal to the amp.
--Scott

This one then? A simple Y splitter? I've had mine hooked up to the speaker output all this time...

20210901_090506 (resized).jpg
#15944 4 months ago

Hey Scott, strange because I'm getting a full-range signal from this and been using my 18" sub with it for months now.
(Edit to add: I see the specs of the amp say it's a 3.5mm aux input, but trust me, give it a try. It outputs for some weird reason. Maybe it's crosstalk?)

#15945 4 months ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

Hey Scott, strange because I'm getting a full-range signal from this and been using my 18" sub with it for months now.
(Edit to add: I see the specs of the amp say it's a 3.5mm aux input, but trust me, give it a try. It outputs for some weird reason. Maybe it's crosstalk?)

Holy crap, that would be crazy. We used this as an input on TNA, I bet you are totally right though and it is cross talking between the RCA and the Aux. haha! Thanks for the added info!
--Scott

#15946 4 months ago

My pleasure Scott - it's an honor to have you reply! R&M is an absolute triumph of a game, and played TNA for the first time last year and been on the hunt for one ever since. Big fan of your music and hoping to add a TNA (or TNA 2.0) to the lineup soon. UM on pre-order as well

#15947 4 months ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

My pleasure Scott - it's an honor to have you reply! R&M is an absolute triumph of a game, and played TNA for the first time last year and been on the hunt for one ever since. Big fan of your music and hoping to add a TNA (or TNA 2.0) to the lineup soon. UM on pre-order as well

Thanks I did end up going with the alligator clip method which is working pretty good. Yep R&M is a total hit it out of the ball park game in all areas, we love it. I have not played a TNA as of yet, but I did try a UM as we have a HWN CE on order which looks to be great as well.

#15948 4 months ago

Here is thread about the information for the diy plug and play coil cooling kits: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/coil-cooler#post-6472859

#15949 4 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Just a quick clarification. That is an Aux input for the amp and will not work for a subwoofer. To properly put a sub on this game, just get an RCA splitter and tap off the incoming signal to the amp.
--Scott

Anyone point to a good one to buy on amazon or something similar. I always buy the wrong stuff when it comes to cables and electronics.

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