(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You can run, but you can't hide, bitch.


By TheNoTrashCougar

1 year ago



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There are 11546 posts in this topic. You are on page 36 of 231.
#1751 11 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

This was before.

Even better. Please share results of how you go once adjusting.

13
#1752 11 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Here's a short video of my 4 yr old getting an Add-a-ball, then a super jackpot shortly after

Dude, your 4 year old kid is playing better than guys in half the other R&M videos we’ve seen recently!

Nice one!

rd

#1753 11 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Even better. Please share results of how you go once adjusting.

I adjusted it a bit after talking to whysnow I'm not sure if i made it better or worse tbh. I didn't play many games on it after adjusting though so I'll see what happens. I tried to close up the metal guide, but that didn't work as well, so I opened it back up again. I also removed the next screw going up the rail and tried to increase that curve a bit more. I might have kinked it too much. Prior to adjusting, if I could get a clean shot, it would loop around very quickly. I could get 2 loops, then a 3rd whatever shot, because at that point it was going too fast.

I could probably hit it 1/3 of the time, but again, I'm attributing that to my playing skill.

Conversely, on my XMLE, I can hit the Storm shot probably 3/4 of the time, the Rogue shot is probably most similar and I can hit that maybe 2/3 of the time.

#1754 11 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I adjusted it a bit after talking to whysnow I'm not sure if i made it better or worse tbh. I didn't play many games on it after adjusting though so I'll see what happens. I tried to close up the metal guide, but that didn't work as well, so I opened it back up again. I also removed the next screw going up the rail and tried to increase that curve a bit more. I might have kinked it too much. Prior to adjusting, if I could get a clean shot, it would loop around very quickly. I could get 2 loops, then a 3rd whatever shot, because at that point it was going too fast.
I could probably hit it 1/3 of the time, but again, I'm attributing that to my playing skill.
Conversely, on my XMLE, I can hit the Storm shot probably 3/4 of the time, the Rogue shot is probably most similar and I can hit that maybe 2/3 of the time.

bust out the slow-mo on the camera and see what impact your adjustments are making. That is the best way for me to better understand what my tweaks are doing.

#1755 11 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

bust out the slow-mo on the camera and see what impact your adjustments are making. That is the best way for me to better understand what my tweaks are doing.

That was my next step if I feel motivated enough

#1756 11 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I also removed the next screw going up the rail and tried to increase that curve a bit more. I might have kinked it too much.

Not advisable to bend the rails; they'll never be the same shape again. The 'quick fix' is to pull out screw #2 and screw #3 after the first front screw. Gives the rail a bit more give so the ball doesn't bounce off as much.

#1757 11 months ago

does somebody have the ring sizes? i thought posted them but cant seem to find it.

#1758 11 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Not advisable to bend the rails; they'll never be the same shape again. The 'quick fix' is to pull out screw #2 and screw #3 after the first front screw. Gives the rail a bit more give so the ball doesn't bounce off as much.

I wasn't "bending" them per se, I was trying to introduce more curve to them, and as a result, might have introduced a little kink. I will remove screw #3 as the next step.

#1759 11 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Not advisable to bend the rails; they'll never be the same shape again. The 'quick fix' is to pull out screw #2 and screw #3 after the first front screw. Gives the rail a bit more give so the ball doesn't bounce off as much.

Will there be a more long term solution for playfields yet to be built such as adjusting the orientation and placement of how the metal bits (tabs and screws) are put into the playfield?

It would be great if Spooky explored this possibility. What do others think?

#1760 11 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Will there be a more long term solution for playfields yet to be built such as adjusting the orientation and placement of how the metal bits (tabs and screws) are put into the playfield?
It would be great if Spooky explored this possibility. What do others think?

I’m pretty sure they already said the new builds would already have this addressed.

I think it was on a post or i heard it on a podcast?

Spooky Luke or Scott i think

#1761 11 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Not advisable to bend the rails; they'll never be the same shape again. The 'quick fix' is to pull out screw #2 and screw #3 after the first front screw. Gives the rail a bit more give so the ball doesn't bounce off as much.

Sorry if it is already been shown somewhere. Can someone show a pic of screw #2 and screw #3 that should be removed for a smoother shot?
Thanks in advance.

#1762 11 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Will there be a more long term solution for playfields yet to be built such as adjusting the orientation and placement of how the metal bits (tabs and screws) are put into the playfield?

Seems like with the break in production right now it might be a good time to take a look at factory solutions.

#1763 11 months ago
Quoted from ghostbc:

Sorry if it is already been shown somewhere. Can someone show a pic of screw #2 and screw #3 that should be removed for a smoother shot?
Thanks in advance.

The tabs missing screws are what people are calling screw #2 and screw #3.

Screw #1 is the one at the end of the rail that has a slot in it that allows you to adjust how big the opening is for that shot.

I opened mine up (pull rail down, towards player) and it shots pretty smooth. Some suggest closing the opening more (move rail up, away from player) to increase curve of the rail.

If you closed it all the way then the rail edge is exposed and ball can hit the sharp edge head on which might chew up the ball over time. If you open it up by moving it down, the edge of the rail is protected by the nearby rubber post.

If you look at the way I have the rail set now it follows the curve of the playfield art much more closely than it did before adjustment.

I wonder if the playfield art was draw such that the rail was intended to follow its curve?

20200322_110159 (resized).jpg
#1764 11 months ago
Quoted from docquest:

The tabs missing screws are what people are calling screw #2 and screw #3.
Screw #1 is the one at the end of the rail that has a slot in it that allows you to adjust how big the opening is for that shot.
I opened mine up (pull rail down, towards player) and it shots pretty smooth. Some suggest closing the opening more (move rail up, away from player) to increase curve of the rail.
If you closed it all the way then the rail edge is exposed and ball can hit the sharp edge head on which might chew up the ball over time. If you open it up by moving it down, the edge of the rail is protected by the nearby rubber post.
If you look at the way I have the rail set now it follows the curve of the playfield art much more closely than it did before adjustment.
I wonder if the playfield art was draw such that the rail was intended to follow its curve?[quoted image]

Thanks for the very clear description. Are you just leaving the guide rail as is? ... with the screw #s 2 and 3 removed? Thanks

#1765 11 months ago

This is more of the (slightly over accentuated) bend I would move to.

The basic idea is a desire to provide more curve in the area of the rail where a ball will hit with a 'sloppy shot'
This basically helps you translate that horizontal movement into vertical movement to carry the momentum of the ball around the inner loop.
again, over done in that red line, but you get the idea I think.

I personally would make the front of the rail line up with that side of the post on entrance. The ball guide is intended to... well... guide the ball
Morty Rail bend 1 (resized).jpg

#1766 11 months ago
Quoted from gac:

Thanks for the very clear description. Are you just leaving the guide rail as is? ... with the screw #s 2 and 3 removed? Thanks

So far yes.

It seems pretty solid even though 2 screws are out. Some argue that the lack of those screws allow the rail to have some "give" to it. Not sure if that makes much if a difference or not.

If I put the screws back in it would require new holes since the adjusted position moves it far enough that the old screw holes cant be used.

#1767 11 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

This is more of the (slightly over accentuated) bend I would move to.
The basic idea is a desire to provide more curve in the area of the rail where a ball will hit with a 'sloppy shot'
This basically helps you translate that horizontal movement into vertical movement to carry the momentum of the ball around the inner loop.[quoted image]

Wouldn't moving the rail that much require some rail bending which Eric said to not do ?

Quoted from epthegeek:

Not advisable to bend the rails; they'll never be the same shape again.

#1768 11 months ago

Probably a stupid question or it has been addressed before (or both) but did the machine come with the target decals on it or do you have to order them as an add-on? I noticed they are in the add-on list but wasn't sure if they are truly extras or not. Thanks.

#1769 11 months ago

following up.

The green lines show the initial sweet spot width on my route game.
The blue lines show the sweet spot width post adjustment.

Again, this is all just stylized... but hopefully helps anyone making and adjustment think about the geometry, physics, and maintained inertia of the ball dynamics. Small tweaks can make a big difference. This goes for every pinball machine!

Morty Rail bend 1 (resized).jpg
#1770 11 months ago

Aren’t there tabs that stick vertically into the playfield too, under the rail guide? I haven’t looked up close, but thought I saw them from the images. whysnow can you please confirm?

Or is this something from a prototype?

Rick-and-Morty_tabs_small (resized).jpg
#1771 11 months ago
Quoted from docquest:

Wouldn't moving the rail that much require some rail bending which Eric said to not do ?

bending = bad. you dont want to kink your rail

changing the curvature = good (assuming this is the sort of tweak you like to make)

I also dont prescribe to everything Eric says

#1772 11 months ago
Quoted from docquest:

So far yes.
It seems pretty solid even though 2 screws are out. Some argue that the lack of those screws allow the rail to have some "give" to it. Not sure if that makes much if a difference or not.
If I put the screws back in it would require new holes since the adjusted position moves it far enough that the old screw holes cant be used.

I'd be concerned with the rail unsecured at two points. Over time the ball impact will cause screw #1 (at the post) to loosen in the wood. If this is a better geometry, then Spooky should really make the change on future units, or maybe change the rail tab on screw #2 and #3 to be adjustable like on #1?

#1773 11 months ago

If it (the hole from the rail) gets to a new location that doesn’t interfere with old hole in wood, drill a small pilot hole in PF, and put a screw in, whoop Dee doo

#1774 11 months ago

Just want to take a moment and say good luck to Spooky and everyone else during these trying times.

#1775 11 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

following up.
The green lines show the initial sweet spot width on my route game.
The blue lines show the sweet spot width post adjustment.
Again, this is all just stylized... but hopefully helps anyone making and adjustment think about the geometry, physics, and maintained inertia of the ball dynamics. Small tweaks can make a big difference. This goes for every pinball machine![quoted image]

Is yours moved far enough away from the post that that the edge of the metal rail can be hit by the ball? If so, is that something you'd be concerned about?

I known balls are easily replaced but I'd be worried about the balls getting nicked over time and scratching up the playfield before you replaced them. Or is the ball tougher than the rail so it won't get dinged up?

#1776 11 months ago
Quoted from docquest:

Is yours moved far enough away from the post that that the edge of the metal rail can be hit by the ball?

no

ball will hit post, not the end of guide rail

#1777 11 months ago
Quoted from northerndude:

If it (the hole from the rail) gets to a new location that doesn’t interfere with old hole in wood, drill a small pilot hole in PF, and put a screw in, whoop Dee doo

Yeah that's what I did on the rail just above the third flipper. Since it's totally buried under the plastics theres no risk and easily reversible.

I wanted to play the game a while with the inner loop rail in this position to make sure I liked it before putting screws back in a new position.

#1778 11 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

no
ball will hit post, not the end of guide rail

If i moved mine all the way up using the full adjustment of the existing slot it could hit the rail edge. That's why I backed it down a bit.

21
#1779 11 months ago

I joined the club late last night! Haven’t even played it yet! Can’t wait to get home from work today!

6ADBF814-33DB-4D99-8160-83B93BD66BAE (resized).jpeg
#1780 11 months ago
Quoted from N80G80:

I joined the club late last night! Haven’t even played it yet! Can’t wait to get home from work today![quoted image]

Congrats! What number are you out of curiosity?

#1781 11 months ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Congrats! What number are you out of curiosity?

It’s a two week old out of the box game. Second hand lol, but it’s #55

#1782 11 months ago
Quoted from N80G80:

It’s a two week old out of the box game. Second hand lol, but it’s #55

ohhh...so you're the one

Enjoy!!

-5
#1783 11 months ago

(Edited)

#1784 11 months ago
Quoted from estrader:

For 8 or 9 grand I shouldn’t have to drill holes or or bend rails. Funny how 2 people on here are doing the opposite of one another. One is bending toward the payer and the other away.
The factory is closed yet no guidance from spooky. They should at least put something on their website to explain what people need to do so their 8 grand toy functions properly.

Why is everything you ever post always have a snide, underlying tone to it? Can't you ever ask a question or look for an answer without putting in some sort of BS suggesting how you shouldn't have to be bothered to ask it? Your crap about it being a 8 or 9 grand and what you should or shouldn't have to do really does not need to be in there to get what you are looking for. I guess it is just how you are... Always need to add your crappy inflection into everything. It's no wonder that you have almost as many downvotes as you have upvotes.. Hell of a percentage you have earned yourself there. I know you could probably care less about that factor, but maybe just having a different outlook or approach to things might work wonders in regards to how people respond to you.

#1785 11 months ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

Why is everything you ever post always have a snide, underlying tone to it? Can't you ever ask a question or look for an answer without putting in some sort of BS suggesting how you shouldn't have to be bothered to ask it? Your crap about it being a 8 or 9 grand and what you should or shouldn't have to do really does not need to be in there to get what you are looking for. I guess it is just how you are... Always need to add your crappy inflection into everything. It's no wonder that you have almost as many downvotes as you have upvotes.. Hell of a percentage you have earned yourself there. I know you could probably are less about that factor, but maybe just having a different outlook or approach to things might work wonders in regards to how people respond to you.

I didn’t think his comment was snide.

#1786 11 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I didn’t think his comment was snide.

It's not directly, but the underlying tone is. Especially when it has been ongoing for quite some time. By itself it's not much (there has been way worse), but when looking at his overall work, it's hard not to read it. That exact same thing could have been asked or stated without the extra added commentary.

That could have simply said:

"Funny how 2 people on here are doing the opposite of one another. One is bending toward the payer and the other away. Can someone from Spooky put something on their website to explain what people need to do?"

That was all that was needed. Same thing accomplished. All of the rest that was added was just passive aggressive....

#1787 11 months ago
Quoted from estrader:

For 8 or 9 grand I shouldn’t have to drill holes or or bend rails. Funny how 2 people on here are doing the opposite of one another. One is bending toward the payer and the other away.
The factory is closed yet no guidance from spooky. They should at least put something on their website to explain what people need to do so their 8 grand toy functions properly.

You are insufferable

#1788 11 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I didn’t think his comment was snide.

I totally did

#1789 11 months ago
Quoted from N80G80:

It’s a two week old out of the box game. Second hand lol, but it’s #55

Thanks. I was trying to figure out what the highest number shipped is. Maybe 62?

#1790 11 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I didn’t think his comment was snide.

All he does is Bitch.

#1791 11 months ago
Quoted from docquest:

If i moved mine all the way up using the full adjustment of the existing slot it could hit the rail edge. That's why I backed it down a bit.

I did not take the screws out yet(not near my game) but I did do what Hilton suggested by pushing it all the way up and it would have hit the metal and not the post so I put a regular (thicker) post rubber on so it does not make contact with metal. Im guessing im taking a little of the width away from the shot.
Thanks for all your good ideas guys. My game plays great! Just want it to be as good as it can be when we reopen our arcade. It really is a great game.

#1792 11 months ago
Quoted from ghostbc:

I did do what Hilton suggested by pushing it all the way up and it would have hit the metal and not the post so I put a regular (thicker) post rubber on so it does not make contact with metal.

That's a great idea! I'll look through my spare parts bin and see if I have any if thicker post sleeves to try.

-6
#1793 11 months ago

(Edited)

-6
#1794 11 months ago

(Edited)

-5
#1795 11 months ago

(Edited)

36
#1796 11 months ago

Hey Guys,
Yeah, so this rail adjustment thing is my fault. I put too many tabs on that guide rail which made it very stiff and actually bounced the ball off sometimes. Removing those 2 screws allows the rail to have a bit of flex to it and not bounce the ball off of it and cause it to rattle. I guess it could be worse. Spooky is making the adjustments, but all it really comes down to is removing those 2 screws. You do not need to drill holes or anything crazy. If yours is playing fine, then just leave it as it. Hope that clarifies a bit. I am still learning every single day on the best practices of pinball design.

Thank you,
--Scott

#1797 11 months ago

(Edited)

#1798 11 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hey Guys,
Yeah, so this rail adjustment thing is my fault. I put too many tabs on that guide rail which made it very stiff and actually bounced the ball off sometimes. Removing those 2 screws allows the rail to have a bit of flex to it and not bounce the ball off of it and cause it to rattle. I guess it could be worse. Spooky is making the adjustments, but all it really comes down to is removing those 2 screws. You do not need to drill holes or anything crazy. If yours is playing fine, then just leave it as it. Hope that clarifies a bit. I am still learning every single day on the best practices of pinball design.
Thank you,
--Scott

Very Lionman

#1799 11 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hey Guys,
Yeah, so this rail adjustment thing is my fault. I put too many tabs on that guide rail which made it very stiff and actually bounced the ball off sometimes. Removing those 2 screws allows the rail to have a bit of flex to it and not bounce the ball off of it and cause it to rattle. I guess it could be worse. Spooky is making the adjustments, but all it really comes down to is removing those 2 screws. You do not need to drill holes or anything crazy. If yours is playing fine, then just leave it as it. Hope that clarifies a bit. I am still learning every single day on the best practices of pinball design.
Thank you,
--Scott

Engineer - over engineerin’

#1800 11 months ago
Quoted from estrader:

If you’re alright letting a company charge you that much for a game and having to make fixes more power to you. I’m not in that boat. I’m here for the consumers and I’m not going to be a cheerleader for a company. If you want to do that fine continue downvoting. If you don’t like what I post block me or don’t read it. I’m fine either way.

I understand your complaints, but you are leaving out a HUGE difference. Stern has been doing this for decades and is quite a bit bigger and expectations are higher for a company that has been around so long and continues to raise their prices and put less into their games. Spooky is newer at this. No need to be a dick about it, they are way more interactive than Stern.

Do you own and/or have one on order?

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