How long was your test that caused the flipper to stop working? Seems like a big problem for R&M's in the wild (when they return to life post COVID).

Wonder if there are software/hardware tweaks that could help, since I've never heard of Stern/JJP/BW failing from heat exhaustion...

That was sent to me, so I only know the temp was over 180F and the flipper stopped working temporarily.

I don't think it would be a problem (non working flipper) in the wild since the machine would have to be played non-stop for something like 90 minutes or more with no breaks, and that's not usually the way location pins go unless it's a hardcore pin player hangout.

Dunno, but it seems like there should be some way to help in software. I don't know if the P-Roc gives some kind of flipper pulse granularity, though. In all the (limited - a bit over 10 models) testing so far R&M by far has the highest 60 and 90 minute temps and is the only one where a flipper temporarily stopped working when it passed 180F (I'm trying to find the email, but I believe it was over 187F if I remember right).

Someone gave an in depth explanation why it seemed to be especially bad on R&M earlier in the thread.

Good point, but I had my LOTR in a high traffic free play arcade (where you pay an hourly rate) and it was getting over 1000 plays per week IIRC.

I would not put R&M in that environment without cooling for the flippers, for sure. But I would think that's a pretty extreme case.

I also don't have a R&M so I can't test to see if hold pulses continue to raise coil temps when you trap, which is part of the heat puzzle, too. On Spike2 I was surprised to find that hold doesn't increase temps of the coil. I left it on hold for a half hour and only got one degree hotter. That's a complete (and welcome) departure from SAM/Whitestar.

Yo fellow Mortys! (Morties?)

Flippers sticking up occasionally- requiring a double tap.
Thought maybe was the bushing but shaved it down and checked play carefully and no resolution.
Thought maybe an issue with the flipper switches but can't seem to see any issue or get them stuck watching button taps with pf up.

Happens left and right lower about equally.

Anyone else? Did I miss a fix earlier in the thread?

Thx
Mike

NOT saying this is your fix but I had an issue with my Left flipper and for me it turned out the coil stop became magnetized. Once fixed never had an issue since.

Whoa. Come from factory like that? I think mine did it from day one. Will have to check. How did you even figure that out?

I pulled the stop and a paper clip stuck to it. No major honestly don’t remember what I did to demagnetize I think I Googled it. Also check the coil sleeve could just be pinched.

Good call. With how many stern coil stops i have replaced i should have looked there first. Doh.

Have a link? I don't see a spooky fan section... search doesn't bring up any 3 or 4 options, neither does the R&M section.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/04552-tibetan-breeze-spooky-pin-2-3-4-flipper-cooling-kits

I have the same issue with both of my lower flippers. I haven't had a chance to look into it yet though.

Game #404 arrived across the border in the great white yesterday! very happy to finally play this pin. this is my first NIB pin and 3rd overall, so I'm still a bit new to troubleshooting. The only issue I've noticed so far is the upper flipper has stopped flipping occasionally, then randomly started working again. I checked the solder and all seems well connected there. and the 2 stage flipper button seems fine as well. so I'm at a loss as to what it could be. its happened 3 times now, and for no longer then about 5min each time.
aside from that flipper issue I'm having a blast with it!

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Check Right flipper button and refer to the posts on this topic in this thread.

If the EOS switch is engaging at the very end of the flipper stroke the flipper may stick in the up position (this is a software thing). Try adjusting the leaf switch so it engages a bit sooner.

checked that out, its possible that's the problem, I did a similar fix as recommended; however I didn't need to use the head of the zipties since my gap wasn't as large as his. but so far so good.
I also added some zip tie along the glass channel to reduce the sub vibration, that thing really pumps when it hits at the same time as the shaker motor.

Ok, need some help. I am going to email spooky if I can't get it figured out. That being said, my left flipper crapped out. Switch test good coil test bad. Wire from board to coil good, coil has same ohms as lower right coil. Fuses on board good. Thinking its the transistor? But not sure, entertaining family and was hoping for a solution I might be able to fix. If anyone has ideas I would appreciate any help.

If you've got a multimeter, check the transistor for that coil, for sure.

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29

If you don't know which transistor goes to the flipper coil in question, you can brute force it and try them all looking for the one that reads bad.

And if you don't have the transistor to replace it, you can "borrow" one from a flasher or something else temporarily you won't miss and move that from where it is to the flipper position.

That said, if something else (short, etc) is causing the transistor to blow, you'll blow up the new or borrowed one, too.

Thank you for the link will try to dig into it tomorrow (technically today). Not sure about soldering on the board, got an email in to spooky also. If they will warranty it I would try my hand at it to get it going for new years party. I Might even have a transistor from an electronics kit laying around?

I don't know what they're using, but you want to make sure whatever you replace it with (if it's indeed bad) is compatible. No need to multiply your problems.

Yes will definitely check for numbers or move one from a flasher as you suggested. Also the fan kit went in easy. Will have to see what the 3rd fan costs.

I decided to move my meeseeks target left...the right justified install on my game just looked "off". The new location looks more natural/centered and reduces the gap with the flipper considerably (which should prevent the ball from being trapped).

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Def looks better, don't know why that is not how it's installed in the first place?...

Looks great! How did you do that? Did you drill holes?

Thanks! Correct...but I didn't use a drill

First, I used some "Alien Tape" to reposition the target without drilling new holes (to see if I liked the new location). Once I was happy with the new placement, I was fortunate there was enough distance for new holes (that didn't overlap with the old holes). On my game, the target placement was "off" by a lot IMHO. If it were only "off" slightly, it would have been much tougher to drill new holes without filling the old ones (which is a PITA).

Seems like there have been enough reported cases of this part breaking that Spooky needs to address the issue. I believe there has even been reported cases of the the modified part available from PinballLife (https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0185-00) breaking. And loosening the retaining screws is not a proper solution.

I'm trying to remain positive, but things like that really bug me. Why are these still being shipped out like that? It wasn't a good design to begin with, relying on bending plastic. As soon as people started reporting them breaking so fast, something should have been changed. Sure it may be a 'cheap' fix overall, but that is kind of the point. It screams 'cheap'. Hell, make it out of rubber if nothing else, it may dry out, but that will take years. People don't want to replace a broken plastic every month. (also, don't really make it out of rubber - add an actual hinge or something).

I'm guessing that this issue never came up during testing, so Spooky assumed the engineering was fine. Most R&Ms have yet to have the part break (mine included), but I think by now there's enough evidence that the design or part needs to be changed. But if not, I've already ordered the backup from PinballLife, because with pinball, shit happens

Seems like the PITA isn't the replacement cost, but the time to install it. Mine hasn't busted yet. I imagine the mech that pokes it might contribute to games where the plastics are breaking (if it's not adjusted properly). So if someone replaces the plastic, they should make sure the mech isn't poking it too aggressively.

I agree, and that may be why Spooky never had an issue during dev and testing - their test rigs had the mech adjusted correctly.

Is there a way to turn off the mech that shakes the spaceship? I do not need it to shake, especially if it might break.

Very nice!

Mine has not broken yet and creeping up on about 600 plays .

So I have a very important question for you… After you made this repair/modification did it get rid of the clunky sound that the original one made? I really don’t like the clunky sound that thing makes every time it hits the ship.

I mean it’s not the worst thing but it would be cool if your modified part makes that sound go away!

Oops! duplicated my post

I think someone mentioned it is tied to the up post in the horseshoe so can't be disabled

Maybe, but I imagine you can adjust the mech down to the point where it does nothing (or just taps it lightly).

The rod that pushes it can be cut down so that it doesn’t push it as high. Or I would think the push rod could be removed and the ship wouldn’t move at all.

No dice, still makes that sound. Seems like a mech noise. It did find a double nut loose inside the ship making noise as it bounced around, so less clunky, now just rattley

Hi Mike,

I had this issue on my left flipper. Turned out to be a tiny bit of flash plastic on the housing the flipper button runs through. Xacto knife to trim the excess flash off the button housing and the flipper never gets stuck again.

Just enough flash for the flipper button to keep the leaf switch in contact.

Good luck.

Having an issue with some of the coils not firing. Neither the top or bottom flippers fire, the ball shoot coil, and the knocker. The left flipper does fire. Those are all i found so far, i'll start testing the rest.

Any ideas?

Sounds like you blew one of the fuses.

Check the fuses on the boards in the backbox on the left where all the transistors are.

OOF. I’ve had my game for less than a week and now the upper flipper isn’t working anymore. Also getting consistent launch ball rejects on the wire form.. that or it goes sailing out into the back of the game.

Looking at the switch test these are open for some reason although looking at the switches they don’t look closed.

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Thanks... I was look on the pinmonk site.

Looks like no international shipping.

Two targets up, 4 balls in the trough, one captive ball. Seems right.

Did you pull the fuses on the boards with the transistors and check them with a multimeter. Losing a section of coils/flashers is usually a blown fuse.

The international shipping is only on pinmonk.com, which only has the 2 flipper kit currently. I'll have the 3 flipper kit on there by this weekend.

You are just on top of things! Yeah blown fuse. Oh well. But I think I might know why the cooler was making noise. I’ll pm you. Thanks as always.

I know it's been discussed, but that type of plastic really isn't designed to flex. For the trouble of switching to a more elastic plastic, I have to suspect a piece of die-cut spring steel in the same shape, would work a lot better and last almost forever. To preserve cosmetics they could laminate it with a mylar sticker of the same art currently beneath the transparent part.

Speaking of mylar... has anyone tried laminating a broken part with some mylar strips, or even thick clear packing tape, to see if that would work any better? Thin strips of mylar might make a decent hinge where the range of motion is pretty limited. Certainly couldn't hurt to try this if the original breaks and you don't have a spare. You'd have to laminate both sides of the part across the break... with a small gap between them to allow the laminate "hinges" to flex without forcing the bottom one to stretch (the bottom would flex upward; the top would compress into the gap; both would be needed to keep the parts aligned and prevent the mech/ship from simply flopping over & getting stuck).