INSTRUCTIONS FOR UPGRADING TO MAGNETIC REED SWITCHES
A few people reached out to me regarding some tips for replacing the upper right loop switches to Magnetic reed switches supplied by Pinsider Sonic . Great product BTW, and well worth the effort of replacing these switches - I did all sorts of adjustments to the original switches, but until I changed to these mag switches I had no idea how many shots were being missed in regular gameplay. So here goes.
If you're replacing both switches, might be a good idea to completely replace and test one switch at a time for ease of trouble shooting and less chance of messing up wires.
1) If you're only replacing the very top RHS loop switch it's obviously quite simple to work out which switch goes where, and how it's aligned, but if you're replacing the 2 switches, Sonic supplies 2 different switches with different alignments. They're nicely labeled with no.27 and no.28. Switch no. 27 goes on the inner orbit and no.28 goes on the top RHS orbit to the garage - this is the one you'll be replacing if just doing one switch. With the playfeild in the fully raised position, the placement mimics the original switches as per the finished photo below (the very bottom RHS of the raised PF). Im pointing to the one you'll be replacing if you're doing just the one switch):IMG_1301 (resized).jpg
Sonic has aligned the switches magnets so the little magnets on the PF both face the top of of the PF (if you're looking at the PF with it down in normal position) as per the finished photo below:
2) While the old switch(es) are still in place - best to unsolder them now as its much easier than if they're hanging loose. If you're doing the 2 switches at once, KEEP NOTE OF WHICH COLOUR ACTIVE WIRE GOES TO WHICH SWITCH. Should be the same on all RNM's - switch no.27 (inner loop) is a RED wire and switch no.28 is a WHITE wire. The BLACK wire is the common. Unsolder both wires (to both switches if doing 2).
3) Once you've unsoldered the wires, remove the switches from the PF. When you receive the new magnetic switches, they are not pre-drilled for screws - there will only be a black flat flap with no holes in it. So you need to drill the 2 holes. To align the holes to the correct position I found it easiest to use the existing switch bracket from the old switch. The original RNM switch setup has a cool little bracket which holds the old switch to the PF. Luckily the bracket is completely removable from the switch itself. Just pull the little plastic lugs back and pop the old switch out so now you have 2 pieces - the bracket and the switch:IMG_1195 (resized).jpg IMG_1196 (resized).jpgIMG_1197 (resized).jpg
4) Take the bracket and use it as a template to mark the location you need to drill the 2 holes on the new mag switch. Line it up as below. If you visualise the way the original switch sat in the bracket on the PF, you can see where it is to line up. You can check an original switch still installed to see where it goes. Basically the new mag switch just mimics the position old switch. The horizontal lug will line up with the very edge of magnetic part that sits in the switch slot on the pf and the inner wall of the bracket will line up with the long edge of the magnetic part that sits in the slot :IMG_1198 (resized).jpg
InkedIMG_1294_LI line (resized).jpg
Use a led pencil to mark the holes:IMG_1199 (resized).jpg
5) Drill the holes out carefully using the edge of a workbench:IMG_1200 (resized).jpg
The plastic will have melted a bit and it helps to lightly sand/file off the plastic around the holes so that the switch will sit flush against the PF.
Slot the switch into it's slot on the PF and check the alignment of the holes. If it doesnt quite line up you can carefully enlarge the holes using the drill (out of the PF).
6) Install and re-screw the new switch into the PF.
7) Time to re-attached the old switch wires to the new switch.
Firstly, it actually doesnt matter on these mag switches which wire goes where. All that matters is that either of the green or white mag switch wires is connected to the correct coloured active switch wire for the switch you are replacing. Refer to the first point for colours. So if only changing switch no.28 for the outer garage loop, the active wire is white. You can attach either the green or the white wire from the mag switch to the original white wire and the other color mag switch wire to the black common.
Just because, I chose the green mag switch wire to go to the active wire and the white mag switch wire to the common (black) wire.
So for switch no.28 the green mag switch wire goes to white active PF switch wire and white mag wire goes to black common PF wire.
For switch no.27, green mag switch wire goes to red active PF switch wire and white mag wire goes to black common PF wire.
8.) Solder the wires. If you dont already have one, the best tool to help solder wires on pinball machines is a locking surgical clamp - everyone should have one. It's essential in providing a 3rd hand we need, and stops you burning your fingers: IMG_1302 (resized).jpg
Available here from Marcos:
Use the clamp to secure the 2 wires and twist the ends together if possible. Heat up the wires with your soldering iron until the solder takes:
For switch no.27 inner loop, you'll be soldering to the black common in the "middle" of the wire since it is not ended on switch 27 (unlike switch 28 which is the last of the switches in this group and therefore the black common ends on this switch):IMG_1192 (resized).jpg
9) Cap your wires using heat shrink tubing (or electrical tape if you havent got shrink stuff). I use a gas soldering iron for pinball work since its fast and portable - the hole in the neck of the iron lets out alot of heat and is perfect for shrinking the wrap.IMG_1213 (resized).jpg
10) Test your switches by going into switch test and running a ball over each replaced switch. Check that the correct switch registers on the screen. Since the switch sits under the ramp, I used an extension magnet to run the ball over the switches, but you could just roll the ball down.