(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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There are 20,272 posts in this topic. You are on page 37 of 406.
#1801 4 years ago
Quoted from estrader:

If you’re alright letting a company charge you that much for a game and having to make fixes more power to you.

game is fine out of the box.

These are owners talking about adjustments and small tweaks. As plenty of others have said and you seem to continually ignore, they game plays great already.

#1802 4 years ago

My left flipper has started to cause a buzz from the speakers when activated and held. There’s approximately 400 plays. I know several things could cause this. Any specific ideas on how to fix this on a Spooky game. It’s not with every hold. Sometimes louder, sometimes softer.

23
#1803 4 years ago

My little guy is at it again!

I was in the middle if a TWD game and heard Rick calling, "Get into the garage Morty!" I told him to shoot the purple arrow at the right orbit and boom. Grabbed my phone immediately! You can hear TWD shooter lane grove in the background.

Plus, he dethroned me as Chief Ball Fondler?! I'm done.
20200324_182111 (resized).jpg20200324_182111 (resized).jpg

#1804 4 years ago

About time his antics got called out. The constant complaining gets old. For someone that doesn’t even have the game, you would think he has unfettered access. All opinions, and not a shred of decency to admit he’s never played it.

#1805 4 years ago

(Edited)

#1806 4 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:game is fine out of the box.
These are owners talking about adjustments and small tweaks. As plenty of others have said and you seem to continually ignore, they game plays great already.

I agree, the game is a blast to play right out of the box. I've seen much worse issues with other games I've bought. I've had 4 NIB games and all of them benefited from some adjustments (often much more involved that what we are talking about in this case).

Kudos to team spooky for acknowledging some of the customer feedback issues and working with us to make an already awesome game even better.

#1808 4 years ago
#1809 4 years ago

This hear post is unedided. I hoap theirs no misteaks!

#1810 4 years ago

The world wouldn't be the same without Jerrys ... lol

#1811 4 years ago

The inner orbit shot often needs to be adjusted for R&M for these early builds.

Not great, but shit happens. Plenty of new Sterns need adjustments.

Plenty of our old B/W pins were routed and adjusted by techs decades ago -- that is why they shoot so well.

People gotta get over it.

12
#1812 4 years ago

I would say that people need to keep in mind that the first 40 were likely built before any were delivered.
The next 20 (they sound like they are batch building 20 at a time?) were built as feedback was just starting to roll in form the first 40.

Once lockdown stops and production starts back up, then they are likely starting on batch 3.

Spooky listens, adjusts and makes improvements. It is huge to have them actively in the conversation!

#1813 4 years ago

In addition to removing the 2 screws, one annotated pic shows the railing being pushed out/away. Given the front edge needs to stay near where it is, doesn’t that indicate the railing need to be a bit longer also? If it were longer then Spooky would have the ability to push it away from player and maintain the entry point from the factory.

#1814 4 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I would say that people need to keep in mind that the first 40 were likely built before any were delivered.
The next 20 (they sound like they are batch building 20 at a time?) were built as feedback was just starting to roll in form the first 40.
Once lockdown stops and production starts back up, then they are likely starting on batch 3.
Spooky listens, adjusts and makes improvements. It is huge to have them actively in the conversation!

Agree, it sounds like improvements will be made at the factory. But I'm curious if the adjustments will be to:

A. Optimize the screw setting and end of guide rail location for the bottom screw, and just not add the other two screws during manufacturing.

B. Relocate holes where the screws are placed to give the guide rail more curve naturally?

I'm hoping for B, if feasible. My concern is that with A, with many frequent shots on the inner orbit and less reinforcement, we may find the first screw hole becoming worn and loosening over time. It would be nice to see a more permanent, optimized solution.

Here's some shot data from my post earlier this year: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rick-amp-morty-pinball-from-spooky/page/208#post-5463422

#1815 4 years ago

removing screws will have zero impact on long term or loosening. That whole rail can easily be held with 2 total screws and zero concern. It is overbuilt with the 4 (or is it 5) total tabs.

pretty sure the guide is just fine.

any factory adjustment is just as simple as being aware of the placement/curve as set at the factory.
I think people are really making a mountain out of a molehill. Shot was fine even on game #2 to leave the factory. I like to adjust and fine tune games. All games are different and a different playerbase. The factory could do nothing and it would be fine as it is. This is supposed to be more difficult compared to other shots.

That said, they always listen and tweak overtime as they like to make even subtle improvements. I am sure the next batch will be even better. It is what they do and why so many are willing to try and provide the constructive feedback

#1816 4 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

removing screws will have zero impact on long term or loosening. That whole rail can easily be held with 2 total screws and zero concern. It is overbuilt with the 4 (or is it 5) total tabs.
pretty sure the guide is just fine.
any factory adjustment is just as simple as being aware of the placement/curve as set at the factory.
I think people are really making a mountain out of a molehill. Shot was fine even on game #2 to leave the factory. I like to adjust and fine tune games. All games are different and a different playerbase. The factory could do nothing and it would be fine as it is. This is supposed to be more difficult compared to other shots.
That said, they always listen and tweak overtime as they like to make even subtle improvements. I am sure the next batch will be even better. It is what they do and why so many are willing to try and provide the constructive feedback

But is there any downside to readjusting the screw holes and modify the curve, even if it's just one of the screws?

#1817 4 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

But is there any downside to readjusting the screw holes and modify the curve, even if it's just one of the screws?

no idea

I trust in Spooky to use their judgement on any feedback/suggestions of tweaks.

#1818 4 years ago

The rail is pretty sturdy. It takes more effort than you would think to curve the rail. I've only removed screw #2, and I'm not going to do any more because I can still rip two loops. The ball coming around the second time is so fast that it's really difficult to react and make anything of it. It's like JP2's inner orbit, just comes around so fast.

#1819 4 years ago

To add, the game already did shoot well from the box. I didn't make many adjustments at all, the most notable being the inner loop. It is a difficult shot and this game has a steep learning curve to get a good feel for where they are. I upped my flipper power just a tick, and it took me about 20-30 games to get a solid feel for where all of the shots were. Now it's messing up the feel for my Stern games lol. That's how different it is.

It will frustrate people. It frustrated me in the beginning and I honestly felt like I made a mistake buying it, but now, I'm loving it! And code is still immature. It's only going to get better.

#1820 4 years ago

Some notable dimensions that I've seen

Dead pop bumper - You don't realize how your reaction, or lack thereof, reaction to a pop bumper until you expect it, and it limps right off of the pop and drains you on the left side flipper

Any flipper button flips all flippers - Yep, this killed me too while trying to do a slap save and I didn't realize I was in this dimension. Slapped the right side and just got enough of the ball to tip it over to the left side....but it hits the bottom of the flipper instead and drains...

Just two that I remember right now. I'll try to add more as I see them.

One request for Eric is to give just a few seconds of time to look up at the screen when entering a new dimension. Often times, the game is so frenetic that you don't know what dimension you're in. Call outs would be primo, then you wouldn't have to look at the screen at all.

#1821 4 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I think people are really making a mountain out of a molehill. Shot was fine even on game #2 to leave the factory. I like to adjust and fine tune games. All games are different and a different playerbase. The factory could do nothing and it would be fine as it is. This is supposed to be more difficult compared to other shots.

I still think it's worth asking questions and exploring - I definitely don't mean any offense. Essentially this game is so much fun, and is a better player than many other pins out there in so many ways (the art, the code, the layout that lets you chain shots together, the audio, the light show). I'd just hate for one small detail to get in the way of getting to that 100% potential.

I only played on the Jackbar pin before adjustments, and was getting many rejects from the orbit shot.

#1822 4 years ago

What's interesting is I had a similar problem with the orbit on POTC where the geometry caused the ball to ricochet between the two rails, and the solution there was to add an extra support to reduce the flex. Just goes to show that no two pins are the same!

#1824 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

look at the screen at all.

Great idea. This is why I prefer to own solid states. I refuse to look up while playing Pinball. Ever.

That's also why I love that Scott put two tiny displays in the PF. That is where the eyes should be.

mof

#1826 4 years ago
Quoted from Wheel_Jack:

I guess this is way Rick and Morty episodes take so long to get released.

pasted_image (resized).jpegpasted_image (resized).jpeg
#1827 4 years ago

Spooky, you need to get on this!!!

#1828 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Some notable dimensions that I've seen
Dead pop bumper - You don't realize how your reaction, or lack thereof, reaction to a pop bumper until you expect it, and it limps right off of the pop and drains you on the left side flipper

This was my nemesis! "Dead Ball Walking"

#1829 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Some notable dimensions that I've seen
Dead pop bumper - You don't realize how your reaction, or lack thereof, reaction to a pop bumper until you expect it, and it limps right off of the pop and drains you on the left side flipper
Any flipper button flips all flippers - Yep, this killed me too while trying to do a slap save and I didn't realize I was in this dimension. Slapped the right side and just got enough of the ball to tip it over to the left side....but it hits the bottom of the flipper instead and drains...
Just two that I remember right now. I'll try to add more as I see them.
One request for Eric is to give just a few seconds of time to look up at the screen when entering a new dimension. Often times, the game is so frenetic that you don't know what dimension you're in. Call outs would be primo, then you wouldn't have to look at the screen at all.

I had the one where you need to use the right flipper button to trigger the upper left flipper.

Love the TNA one, the callout says something like "welcome to the future" and starts playing the TNA music. The variety of the dimension differences is very cool.

#1830 4 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

I had the one where you need to use the right flipper button to trigger the upper left flipper.
Love the TNA one, the callout says something like "welcome to the future" and starts playing the TNA music. The variety of the dimension differences is very cool.

I had gotten the TNA dimension but then drained immediately so didn't get to see it. I'm going to have to focus on dimensions more. I see the Willhelm scream dimension a lot too.

And I think you mean the left flipper button to trigger the upper right flipper I've also seen that one!

#1831 4 years ago

I got my new Rick and Morty “official” pinball glass dust cover today!

Now I just need my machine...

1FBE51B9-21A3-4FC9-932E-976CAC24774D (resized).jpeg1FBE51B9-21A3-4FC9-932E-976CAC24774D (resized).jpeg
#1832 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

I got my new Rick and Morty “official” pinball glass dust cover today!
Now I just need my machine... [quoted image]

Is that a beach towel?

#1833 4 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Is that a beach towel?

Don't think it is a beach towel, He said "new Rick and Morty “official” pinball glass dust cover". Must be that because I read it on the internet.

26
#1834 4 years ago

Here's some info I'd like to share to others who dont mind doing adjustments/tweaks to their games.

I wanted to see what I could do to make the garage shot from the upper right flipper easier. The shot was makeable before but since I'm just an average skillz player I wanted to make it even more makable.

Based on what was learned from adding more curvature to the rail position with the inner loop spinner shot, I wanted to see if something similar could be done with the garage shot.

You need to remove the plastics above the portal return trough to get access to that area. If you look at the intial position of the rail you can remove the second and third screw on the rail to adjust its position (very similar to the inner loop shot). However, the tab on the third screw is very close to a wooden rail which prevents you from moving it much at all.

garage orig (resized).jpggarage orig (resized).jpg

Loosen the black screws under the playfield which secure the wooden rail to the playfield. This allows you to raise the wood rail a little bit.

garage under playfield wood rail screws (resized).jpggarage under playfield wood rail screws (resized).jpg

Then you can slide the edge of the metal rail tab under the wood rail to increase the curvature. Tightening the wood rail screws will then clamp and secure the rail tab under the wood rail.

You can see the curvature of that rail is now improved.

garage tab under rail (resized).jpggarage tab under rail (resized).jpg

If you use the original screw hole for the first tab on the rail, it will restrict how much of a curve you can create. I made a new screw hole for the first tab which allowed me to increase the amount of curvature.

The shot is still hard but now my sloppy half assed shots sometimes make it to the garage.

#1835 4 years ago

great picture tutorial!

thanks for sharing!

#1836 4 years ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

Don't think it is a beach towel, He said "new Rick and Morty “official” pinball glass dust cover". Must be that because I read it on the internet.

rmarmol1, Where could I purchase an "official" Rick and Morty pinball dust cover?

#1837 4 years ago

Nice, docQ

That bulb that is just about touching the back of the guide there...

I'd replace that one with one of the Comet Quick Link style bulbs.
It'd add a spot to connet additional lights (if you want it in the future) and keep it from making contact when the rail flexes.

I would be worried about stressing that lamp, socket and connection in that current position.

#1838 4 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Nice, docQ
That bulb that is just about touching the back of the guide there...
I'd replace that one with one of the Comet Quick Link style bulbs.
It'd add a spot to connet additional lights (if you want it in the future) and keep it from making contact when the rail flexes.
I would be worried about stressing that lamp, socket and connection in that current position.

I thought these were just lenses and the actual LED is a on board below?

#1839 4 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Nice, docQ
That bulb that is just about touching the back of the guide there...
I'd replace that one with one of the Comet Quick Link style bulbs.
It'd add a spot to connet additional lights (if you want it in the future) and keep it from making contact when the rail flexes.
I would be worried about stressing that lamp, socket and connection in that current position.

Yes it's very close. That's a great idea to use the comet quick link leds. Heres a pic in case people aren't sure what that is.

rps20200325_180024 (resized).jpgrps20200325_180024 (resized).jpg
#1840 4 years ago

I wouldn't do that personally. Its an RGB bulb, so it I don't think the comet bulb would work anyway.

Quoted from guitarded:

Nice, docQ
That bulb that is just about touching the back of the guide there...
I'd replace that one with one of the Comet Quick Link style bulbs.
It'd add a spot to connet additional lights (if you want it in the future) and keep it from making contact when the rail flexes.
I would be worried about stressing that lamp, socket and connection in that current position.

#1841 4 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Yes it's very close. That's a great idea to use the comet quick link leds. Heres a pic in case people aren't sure what that is.[quoted image]

I thought they were called matrix?

#1842 4 years ago

I think they use these RGB leds scott designed for pinball life
https://www.pinballlife.com/p3-roc-single-rgb-gi-pcb-assembly.html

#1843 4 years ago
Quoted from titanpenguin:

I thought these were just lenses and the actual LED is a on board below?

The lenses are connected to the bulb body...and on and on ... (like that bone song) until you get to the wiring and bracket/mount.

I would just be worried that as a ball travels along the rail and flexes it that the lens would transmit some of that force down the line.

A QL type Bulb would eliminate that concern.

Was not thinking about the RGB though.

#1844 4 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

I thought they were called matrix?

Potato / Yam

#1845 4 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

rmarmol1, Where could I purchase an "official" Rick and Morty pinball dust cover?

I got it on amazon.

I'll look for it and post it soon

#1846 4 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

rmarmol1, Where could I purchase an "official" Rick and Morty pinball dust cover?

Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

I got it on amazon.
I'll look for it and post it soon

here you go;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WT96XVK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_2e-EEb76QJ059

They have other designs.
Also just an FYI... it ships from China so it took a few weeks to get here.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/615e25wnNbL._AC_SL1200_.jpg

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#1847 4 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

I think they use these RGB leds scott designed for pinball life
https://www.pinballlife.com/p3-roc-single-rgb-gi-pcb-assembly.html

Exactly. Thanks!

#1848 4 years ago

Also ordered this one for my Transformers Autobot LE.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61byiZcNS-L._AC_SL1200_.jpg

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#1849 4 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

I think they use these RGB leds scott designed for pinball life
https://www.pinballlife.com/p3-roc-single-rgb-gi-pcb-assembly.html

You're right. I totally forgot that there are RGB and are board mounted and not in a traditional socket like a typical GI bulb.

Although the adjusted rail position is very close it's still not touching the plastic LED cover. I think it will be fine.

#1850 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

I got my new Rick and Morty “official” pinball glass dust cover today!
Now I just need my machine... [quoted image]

Where did you get this ?

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