You know he directly/indirectly works for Spooky right?

So you are saying there is not a manual?

I'm not following what you're getting at, but if you'd like to continue this conversation in PM, I'd be happy to!

Call AJ mine just broke last week after 1.5 years of heavy play. They will send you a new plastic peace that broke off. It's easy to replace just back out the screws and take what's left of the broken plastic extension and replace with new plastic extender. He sent me a couple extra because this is a known issue.
Regards,
Al

It's possible that Spooky is still planning additional Adventures, and is just waiting until they are all in the game before preparing the manual (this way they don't have to keep updating the manual every time a new adventure comes out).

There’s been a history of beating dead horses in this thread looking back. And because of it, has this game not substantially improved? I’d say if it wasn’t for the dead horses, us owners would not be playing our R&Ms with much satisfaction today.

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My perspective - the Multimorphic hardware is sufficiently documented. My paranoia surrounds an SSD that craps the bed for starters. I've yet to read how/where to restore to a fresh SSD. I've seen mention to just put in a fresh drive, and use the same image used for updating, but zero confirmation that this does indeed work - just "go talk to Spooky". Should I be pulling and imaging my existing drive? Does Spooky just hand out/sell replacement SSD's, or is there a "special restoration image" available that they hand out as needed? Shouldn't something like that be downloadable as needed if it's different from the normal update images? If the existing image works, that's awesome - but I've yet to see that confirmed.

I've also seen no details on requirements for a replacement PC motherboard, should the original fail. Is the software dependent upon a specific chipset in order to run? Will any old generic PC motherboard of the right form factor "just work"? Games fail at some point, and as noted, relying solely upon email support without having some common source of knowledge is (in my eyes) a real concern. I fix my own stuff, and would like to be prepared if I need to do this for my R&M at some point years down the road - well after any "official" support is long dead and unavailable.

The manual posted is better than nothing, and does have useful information - but contains nothing at all regarding the PC part of the system. If there is a resource out there with the above, I'm happy to be educated!

My understanding is that the answer to that is a big "NO" on putting a fresh drive in and then thinking you can flash the image with a USB and the image, unfortunately. What sounds like can work is taking a complete image of the current drive with something like dd from your current working drive in the game. I think Spooky mentioned looking into offering some sort of customer-facing restore utility but I am not sure that will come to fruition for Rick & Morty.

Agree with you 1000%. That PC goes down and it leaves a ton of question marks!

You all may be on to something, the left opto tonight stopped registering completely, why would the left horseshoe opto cause false drain, and wacky game play? Looks like i will order all new opto’s!! I seriously appreciate the help!!! If this Tech can’t fix it next week, then i will ship it to Someone that can guarantee it will be fixed, Please advise who that would be? Or I will take it to a Expo show, try to have it fixed. FYI, Game was NIB Blood Sucker #-390, It hadn’t been damaged, sat in a pinball collectors living room for 13- months. I know what a New Pinball Machine is supposed to look like. Yes it has the right amount of balls It did play fine for the first 25 games, then it reset automatically, lost speech, blew a fuse from trapping up and using anti gravity , etc,etc, Flippers faded quickly (cooling fan fixed that issue) false drain/whacky game play!!!

It registers as having a ball locked and that ghost ball messes with the count in the code, but not the trough. Weird shit ensues.
Check and see if any of the solder joints on the pads are cracked. An intermitent connection can make it do allsorts of goofy shit.

Speaking of beating dead horses:

1) there will be no more adventures.
2) the rules or changing rules have nothing to do with a manual
3) read the thread

You don’t get dry humor, do you?

No.

I wanted to let Everyone know who has kindly help me thru my False Drain Issue, I finally bitched/complained/ ruined sexy time, she finally tried to help me last night, My Wife is Super smart with alot of things, she noticed everytime the ball was in the right horseshoe lock, it would false drain, wow i just never noticed it !! I have always had issues with the left drop target not working from day one. Stupid Me!!! This explains why it never false drained. during Multi-Ball, And I must auck at pinball and never locked a ball on my 1st ball. Thank You All for being patient with my ranting!! I can’t thank everyone enough!!! Just an EPIC pinball Machine!!! There really are good people in this world!!!! Thanks again!!!!!!

Apologies if this has been covered on the thread before, but I didn’t find anything when I searched. I switched R&M on recently and got the following message on the screen:

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After power cycling the game, the screen now stays black. The fan comes on, and the playfield lights all white, but nothing else happens.

Not really sure where to start with this one - has it happened to anyone else? It was playing fine just a couple of days before and wasn’t moved / touched in the meantime.

I think that happened to me and it turned out to be the small battery needed replacement...watch battery that is...

It's a CR2032 lithium battery. I happen to be replacing most of my batteries this week so I'm tuned in on this right now. Lithium button batteries may be able to last 7 to 10 years according to the battery shipper. I recommend taking a quick voltage read to determine what it's capable now. As an engineer (and OCD) I've opted to record the voltages of both the outgoing and new batteries to get a bench mark on how long they last in my individual games. Figure that I'll check each battery thereafter when I get a pinside reminder at the 1 year mark. Yes, I have too much time to play with this...

Thanks, appreciate the pointers. Just ordered some, will test when they arrive on Friday.

Someone keypost this if it isn't already.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/374#post-7128909

It was four days ago

Received the fang club cup today. Nice not sure what I’m going to do with it thought.

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You need to make me a perfectly level floor.

Fill it with beer, injest

Whoever told me to look at the left drop down target opto to the right , the one that the back of it gets beat on by the ball from the top flipper, this was the Culprit, wires were completely off the back of the opto!!! I can’t thank everyone enough!!! I will definitely find the person that told me 2-months ago to check that, I really appreciate the help everyone!!!!

Glad you were able to get it sorted! Now you can enjoy the game without worrying about the glitch. Nice when it's a relatively simple fix.

Thanks, appreciate it!

I am a bit confused,so everybody that owns a Rick and morty with have to do this?
Can you replace the battery before it goes bad? Can this be avoided?

It wasn't me! But FYI on my machine it was the left drop target switch that went flaky and caused some issues (not ball search though) and the opto was OK. So keep an eye on this area everyone!

PC's typically have a backup battery that will eventually need to be replaced. Much depends upon how often the computer is powered up - the less it's on, the more quickly the battery will drain. Two to five years is probably expected, though they can last much longer. Since R&M is using standard PC hardware, it has a CMOS battery, and since they are only powered on intermittently for home use, the battery is going to drain more quickly.

You could certainly replace the battery before it goes bad, but in order to not lose settings, you'd have to do it while the game is on. If you're nervous about replacing one of these as it is, probably not something you should attempt while the game is powered in your case... It's just a typical CR2032 coin cell battery; they are cheap and relatively easy to replace - the work in this case is having a keyboard connected so you can reset the various settings lost (ie date/time, where to boot from) when the battery fails to allow the game to boot normally again.

Glad it solved your issue, button-pusher.

When working %100, knowing Spooky will never make this game again - I wouldn’t let it go for anything under $100,000. Game is Epic!!!

The new Challenge feature has really put it over the top, imo.

It is something special.

Sure this pinball machine will become a legend just like Big Bang bar! but Rick & Morty is much more fun than BBB.

Where is the best place to buy speaker lights and the portal acrylics? Thanks!

Not sure on the lights … I thought they were a factory option? But I’m sure there’s an aftermarket option.

I got the portal acrylics from here. https://www.brassdoorworkshop.com/product/rick-and-morty-pinball-speaker-kit/4 The page appears to unfortunately not be accepting orders right now.

Also have the frosted spacers in Rick and Morty from the LED OCD folks. http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34

Way to go wife! Glad you got your game up and running and can enjoy this beast

Has anyone changed there coin cell battery on there r and m where the battery is wrapped and taped to the unit.
I would like to know if I can remove the battery and replace while the game is running and not mess up anything,I asked spooky a few days ago and I did not get a response.
Thanks

Hi, can you photograph the battery you are referring to?

I swapped my CR2032 battery out yesterday (with game running) and had no issues. But mine was mounted in a regular battery holder with no tape.

I think he is referring to the older board. I’d like to know where to get that battery too.

I have not removed the coin yet but I would think it just has two contacts on ether side of the battery and held tight with pressure from the shrink.my acnc has the same setup and is older.

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My board (#321) for comparison.

IMG_2945 (resized).jpg

I was not aware that earlier units had a completely different type of board. Besides these two, are there any other varieties? NewEgg appears to have a very similar (but potentially later version) of this board, but would need to know the CPU speed in order to verify a better match... Time to hook up a keyboard and go digging I guess.

Otherwise, mine has an SSD; what do these earlier ones use - a USB drive? This kinda stuff is begging to be documented...

Question for you guys! Is there any secondary market to buy the special 'portal cutout' side rails? I just got a standard and would love to add on the gorgeous purple powder coated rails. Thanks!

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he apologized for saying "My Man"? I don't get it. lots of people say it. Why can't he?

JD is very ‘woke’ - I’m sure it has something to do with the assumed improper use of the pronoun ‘man’ or ‘cultural appropriation’ or some other dumb shit that someone chose to be offended by.

Welcome to 2022.

I remember this all too well. The new position is that licensing changed and this is no longer possible. I’m fine with that as long as licensing didn’t change b/c the game was such a smash hit that we knew money was left on the table so the solution here is to make R+M 2 with new episodes. THAT would piss me off.