(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You can run, but you can't hide, bitch.


By TheNoTrashCougar

1 year ago



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#3801 7 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Are you sure your upper flipper issue isn't just one of the dimensions? There's one where the upper flipper is activated by the left flipper button.

Positive. I started a ball in the shooter lane and it was not flipping. I don’t think the dimensions are active after a drain.

#3802 7 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

You've gone well beyond what I was actually posting about, which was Kanedas troll image.
Besides that, you are blowing it out of all reasonable proportion. Where do you want to stop for such minor improvments? ... you can keep going in tiny incriments... then .... $500 screen? . Not everyone buying a pinball is Loaded you know.
I look at the playfield for pinball anyways! Lol

I think this is best viewed as an optional enhancement as opposed to an issue. An enhancement like getting PDI glass... yes it’s not necessary but adds to the overall visual aesthetic.

#3803 7 months ago

#101 is shipped and arrives tomorrow. Can't wait!

#3804 7 months ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

We noticed this yesterday on our game. I let the ball dead bounce from scoop.
My son holds the flipper up to try and catch it. He was complaining the flipper was dropping. I took the glass off and checked the EOS switches which seemed fine. I then went held in the flipper button and gave the flipper a push with my other hand and it dropped back to rest. So I agree the hold power seems weak.
I also had a weird problem where the upper flipper randomly does not respond. Only happened maybe 3 times. I was going to check out flipper button today and see if it needs adjusting.

Part of the problem is (apparently) that my whitewood doesn't hit the flipper on a scoop eject - it hits the in-lane wall, so I don't have the same situation you guys do to compare it to. Obviously the short term fix would be to turn down your scoop eject power so it's not such a hard hit to the flipper.

I was originally controlling the flippers in the same way TNA did, but TNA uses different coils (which I had on my whitewood). When I got the right coils, I adjusted how the flippers were controlled and based on testing on my machine, the hold strength increased a decent amount, and the heat buildup was somewhat reduced.

I experimented with some other changes in the more recent beta builds (after 06.05) but ended up reverting those after feedback from testers said they weren't better.

If everything is working the way it's intended the game should increase the power to the flipper a bit when the EOS opens if the flipper button is still closed, for a short period of time, to get the flipper back into position. I will do some more experimenting on my end, and possibly make things more user adjustable.

One thing to check is make sure your EOS switches aren't opening too late in the down-stroke; I'm not sure how they're adjusted from the shop. They don't need to be super hair-trigger close to the end of the movement, but if they're not opening until the flipper is pretty far down the game probably isn't reacting fast enough. It may be that if the flipper is too far down by the time it tries to recover the power increase isn't enough (which would be where the user adjustable bit might help).

#3805 7 months ago

I'm hoping these little quirks get fixed in the factory,PLEASE!!!

#3806 7 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Part of the problem is (apparently) that my whitewood doesn't hit the flipper on a scoop eject - it hits the in-lane wall, so I don't have the same situation you guys do to compare it to. Obviously the short term fix would be to turn down your scoop eject power so it's not such a hard hit to the flipper.
I was originally controlling the flippers in the same way TNA did, but TNA uses different coils (which I had on my whitewood). When I got the right coils, I adjusted how the flippers were controlled and based on testing on my machine, the hold strength increased a decent amount, and the heat buildup was somewhat reduced.
I experimented with some other changes in the more recent beta builds (after 06.05) but ended up reverting those after feedback from testers said they weren't better.
If everything is working the way it's intended the game should increase the power to the flipper a bit when the EOS opens if the flipper button is still closed, for a short period of time, to get the flipper back into position. I will do some more experimenting on my end, and possibly make things more user adjustable.
One thing to check is make sure your EOS switches aren't opening too late in the down-stroke; I'm not sure how they're adjusted from the shop. They don't need to be super hair-trigger close to the end of the movement, but if they're not opening until the flipper is pretty far down the game probably isn't reacting fast enough. It may be that if the flipper is too far down by the time it tries to recover the power increase isn't enough (which would be where the user adjustable bit might help).

Thanks for that detailed reply, I'll check my EOS... But... That will only improve the flippers reaction when it's been knocked down, shouldn't they resist a knockdown in the first place?

-3
#3807 7 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

Yeah I disagree b/c that shot wasn’t getting changed at the factory until Kaneda really pushed it. Scott ended up calling him immediately to help. Decals weren’t moving either.
That’s fine though - agree to disagree but Kaneda has definitely helped here.

Lol. What a load of crap. Is K-man paying you to say these things or are you trying your hardest to play pinball insider?

#3808 7 months ago

Can someone post a quick pic of the inside of their pin at the right flipper button... my buddies right flippers are acting up and i want to see if an adjustment needs to be made to it under the playfield.

Thx in advance!

#3809 7 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Thanks for that detailed reply, I'll check my EOS... But... That will only improve the flippers reaction when it's been knocked down, shouldn't they resist a knockdown in the first place?

With single wound flippers, there’s only so much you can do on the hold end when you’re battling against heat buildup. A hard direct shot out of a high power scoop is going to be hard to win against, but the EOS opening should help it recover. When testing against my Ironman, I “sag and recover” from about the same strength hit on both machines; but I’m apparently not getting the same circumstances some people are with the scoop hitting the flipper directly.

#3810 7 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

With single wound flippers, there’s only so much you can do on the hold end when you’re battling against heat buildup. A hard direct shot out of a high power scoop is going to be hard to win against, but the EOS opening should help it recover. When testing against my Ironman, I “sag and recover” from about the same strength hit on both machines; but I’m apparently not getting the same circumstances some people are with the scoop hitting the flipper directly.

I would often see this on the dragon shot to the right flipper on Game of Thrones too.

#3811 7 months ago

Heres my buddies right flipper setup... do u guys see what adjustment i need to make to make the flippers not so intermittent?

0F6D60CC-DEF9-476F-A3B8-111948CBD8C1 (resized).jpeg
#3812 7 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

With single wound flippers, there’s only so much you can do on the hold end when you’re battling against heat buildup. A hard direct shot out of a high power scoop is going to be hard to win against, but the EOS opening should help it recover. When testing against my Ironman, I “sag and recover” from about the same strength hit on both machines; but I’m apparently not getting the same circumstances some people are with the scoop hitting the flipper directly.

Single wound flippers? Do you mean that there’s no secondary low power coil winding on the R&M flipper coils?

#3813 7 months ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Its a faff to do that and then go back to the playing angle so sharing the values can help folks try stuff that works for others.
My recollection of this is not great but I thought there was a value on each setting? On the TNA thread fytr was having trouble with the view angle because he was tall and used these settings which helped:
Monitor settings are now at 25 brightness and 100 contrast, with the Gamma=On.

When I had a TNA I set mine to the below based on this post in the TNA thread - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/57#post-4438398

Contrast 90
Brightness 35
Gamma on

#3814 7 months ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Single wound flippers? Do you mean that there’s no secondary low power coil winding on the R&M flipper coils?

Pretty much am new games, I think??

#3815 7 months ago
Quoted from dnapac:

On the back of the display are these buttons. You can access a settings menu and adjust the brightness, contrast, etc. unfortunately, ACNC didn’t have these and thus, the display, unless tilted, is a little washed out.
[quoted image]

Setting numbers?

#3816 7 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Pretty much am new games, I think??

Am new games?

#3817 7 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Pretty much am new games, I think??

Assuming am = all?
Why? Cost saving? Technical advantage?

#3818 7 months ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

The cheese balls are a kingpin thing! He actually ordered them for all of his customers! If you are a kingpin customer and you did not receive them that means we uh... forgot

Well, as a Kingpin customer, I’m hoping the cheese balls don’t go stale by Nov/Dec (#316?). Ok, nevermind... I’ve seen the ingredients... these things will outlast all of us.

Quoted from FatPanda:

So it appears that we've got some wiseguys at Spooky....
You guys are f*cking awesome! Completely made our day! We couldn't stop laughing! Love you Spooky!

The guys and gals at spooky are definitely awesome!!

#3819 7 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Mine aren't as bad as you describe but my right flipper gets knocked down by the scoop eject every time. I received my machine on Monday, updated to latest code available then, hold strength to hard but still knocked down. Charlie said don't worry about it, it's being worked on. I'm not quite sure why it should be in an issue in the first place though, it's far from their first machine, or machines built with PROC. Makes catching the ball with a drop catch impossible, something I did all the time on TNA.

Mine does the same, good to know it's not isolated issue..

#3820 7 months ago
Quoted from frankmac:

Setting numbers?

I’ll look at my settings, but it’s really dependent on the room lighting and personal preferences. Take the back glass off and put the speaker panel back up. TheN reach behind the display and adjust to your preference. That’s what I did.

#3821 7 months ago
Quoted from dnapac:

I’ll look at my settings, but it’s really dependent on the room lighting and personal preferences. Take the back glass off and put the speaker panel back up. TheN reach behind the display and adjust to your preference. That’s what I did.

I will give it a go . I also will write down the stock settings to refer back to you if needed.

#3822 7 months ago
Quoted from adamross:

Mine does the same, good to know it's not isolated issue..

Weird issue.

I just took glass of a Stern game and held flipper up.

Then threw ball as hard as I could at the flipper.

It just doesn't budge.

There must be an obvious solution somewhere as flippers have been around a long time!

10
#3823 7 months ago

Messing around with the lcd I have found these adjustments work for my blind eyes.

brightness to 40
contrast to 75
Gamma at user.

It looks Much better than when it was shipped

A9FFA236-0B1E-4004-8C6F-106AF5DEBDB8 (resized).jpeg
-2
#3824 7 months ago

Changing your display may void your warranty. I would ask Spooky first before I did that. I’m also curious to the percentage increase in quality. Are we gaining 10, 40, 80 percent increase in display quality? Seems like a big risk, a lot of work, and expensive if only a small increase in image quality.

#3825 7 months ago

I've played a TNA for weeks on end and agreed the screen needed to be upgraded. The owner bought a new one and switched it out, and the difference was amazing. It was like a whole new game.

I purchased ACNC in February. It's flawless. The screen is great. No adjustments needed. Because of this I figured Spooky had upgraded.

R&M comes out and everything was fine for 5 months. And now people are talking about upgrading it? I don't really understand what prompted all this...

#3826 7 months ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Changing your display may void your warranty. I would ask Spooky first before I did that. I’m also curious to the percentage increase in quality. Are we gaining 10, 40, 80 percent increase in display quality? Seems like a big risk, a lot of work, and expensive if only a small increase in image quality.

It looks significantly better on TNA but like a lot of things value is subjective and you have to see it in person. You aren't going to upgrade your LCD so don't worry.

Also, the warranty in print means you can't add a single spotlight and even then if you have a serious problem like playfield issues of the past they don't give you a new populated playfield because they don't have the money.

Every time I have had to call Spooky for warranty they have been amazing and do whatever they can to help but the truth with pinball company warranties is no matter who the company is, they won't help you if it costs more than X.

#3827 7 months ago
Quoted from Waxx:

It looks significantly better on TNA but like a lot of things value is subjective and you have to see it in person. You aren't going to upgrade your LCD so don't worry.
Also, the warranty in print means you can't add a single spotlight and even then if you have a serious problem like playfield issues of the past they don't give you a new populated playfield because they don't have the money.
Every time I have had to call Spooky for warranty they have been amazing and do whatever they can to help but the truth with pinball company warranties is no matter who the company is, they won't help you if it costs more than X.

Agree with this mostly. But as someone who fried almost every board and cpu on my ACNC...it was under warranty and Spooky stood behind it. I’m sure that wasn’t the cheapest for them. Small things aren’t a big deal to cover, but when it’s big you want to play by the rules as much as you can. Im not sure what’s involved with changing a display, but I do know the pain of being one pin off when hooking up electrical things. Not knocking those who want a different display, just throwing out some cautions to think about.

10
#3828 7 months ago

This is the ideal EoS position for R&M....

With the current software and the EoS adjusted like this, flipper recovery is about as good as it gets.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#3829 7 months ago

Thanks borygard & epthegeek , I just adjusted the flipper EOS's on my machine and couldn't believe the difference it made, the machine must be really fast at re-applying the power once the EOS is opened because any knockdown is barely perceptible now.

#3830 7 months ago
Quoted from Borygard:

This is the ideal EoS position for R&M....

With the current software and the EoS adjusted like this, flipper recovery is about as good as it gets.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

That is also the exact way the EOS on Houdini should be set up.
Similar complaints, similar knock downs.

PROC, single wound flipper coils etc.

With no hold coil to help, the fippers will be easily knocked down.

The only solution is to try to make for a very fast recovery via the EOS and software or to slow the game way down to control the ball inertia.

Still it wont be as rock solid or aggressive as 70v dual wound coils as in Williams games.

Maybe just put bigger, stronger coils in?

15
#3831 7 months ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Kaneda is a douche. Suddenly he's part of the Design Team at Spooky or some shit.

well, it does appear that:

better screens are available, quieter power supply fans are available, longer lasting rubbers are available, adjustments to the scoop can reduce rejects, adjustments to the garage and inner loop shots can smooth them out, conscientiously positioning the upper flipper can reduce bounce on the feed, and the flipper hold strength and coil overheating may need attention.

at one time or another, buyers have expressed an interest in these various upgrades/improvements being made in house in order to avoid having to deal with them later on their own.

kaneda is a consumer advocate. he points out areas which can be improved upon, hoping to facilitate change which may result in customers receiving a more enjoyable, better looking, trouble-free game. regrettably, even if kaneda were instrumental in getting ACNC a software facelift, there are people who would still complain about him.

laboratory27 (resized).jpg
-4
#3832 7 months ago
Quoted from greenhornet:

kaneda is a consumer advocate. he points out areas which can be improved upon, hoping to facilitate change which may result in customers receiving a more enjoyable, better looking, trouble-free game.

That's a little long to print on a card. Here, let me take a stab at it.

Kaneda - Self Aggrandizing Podcast Host

#3833 7 months ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Changing your display may void your warranty. I would ask Spooky first before I did that. I’m also curious to the percentage increase in quality. Are we gaining 10, 40, 80 percent increase in display quality? Seems like a big risk, a lot of work, and expensive if only a small increase in image quality.

We’ve been changing displays for years with ColorDMDs & other various replacements. It’s not a lot of risk or a lot of work.

If you’re happy with your display, leave it.

#3834 7 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Thanks borygard & epthegeek , I just adjusted the flipper EOS's on my machine and couldn't believe the difference it made, the machine must be really fast at re-applying the power once the EOS is opened because any knockdown is barely perceptible now.

Thanks for the feedback. Will give this another look tomorrow though your result sounds promising. Thanks

#3835 7 months ago

So i would assume all build numbers were push back due to the Lock Down aka Quarantine or to be correct the "Shelter in place" Like My House is going to start moving around. My shelter is always in place. Anyway I digress. So whats the latest on current build per Month? I do remember they would of been around 450 built by the end of 2020. Anyone know the new number?

#3836 7 months ago

At about 128 currently...they’re moving at a good pace.

Quoted from 6S3NC3:

So i would assume all build numbers were push back due to the Lock Down aka Quarantine or to be correct the "Shelter in place" Like My House is going to start moving around. My shelter is always in place. Anyway I digress. So whats the latest on current build per Month? I do remember they would of been around 450 built by the end of 2020. Anyone know the new number?

#3837 7 months ago
Quoted from MEuRaH:

I've played a TNA for weeks on end and agreed the screen needed to be upgraded. The owner bought a new one and switched it out, and the difference was amazing. It was like a whole new game.
I purchased ACNC in February. It's flawless. The screen is great. No adjustments needed. Because of this I figured Spooky had upgraded.
R&M comes out and everything was fine for 5 months. And now people are talking about upgrading it? I don't really understand what prompted all this...

It's a vocal handfull of owners choosing to go next level of display quality... ala JJP. Higher end displays, well ... look Better!

For most owners, adjusting the OEM stock display settings to preferece (brightness down some, contrast up some, gamma On), makes everything honky dory.

Fyi The stock display settings are 50, where min is 0 and max is 100.

On my Standard TNA Display I have:
B:25
C:90
G:On
That gives me a dramatic improvment compared to the standard display settings. It looks good to me.

It sounds like my TNA display might still be inferior to the displays going into R&M. ??

#3838 7 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

We’ve been changing displays for years with ColorDMDs & other various replacements. It’s not a lot of risk or a lot of work.
If you’re happy with your display, leave it.

And these were Stern or older...data East, Bally, etc. no warranty.

#3839 7 months ago
Quoted from Borygard:

This is the ideal EoS position for R&M....

With the current software and the EoS adjusted like this, flipper recovery is about as good as it gets.

Yep, this is the good stuff, thanks. After adjusting my EOS blades, the knockdown is much better. Still there a little, but I'll just bend the blades more next time I'm under. Thanks also kevlar for the help.

#3840 7 months ago
Quoted from VALIS666:

Yep, this is the good stuff, thanks. After adjusting my EOS blades, the knockdown is much better. Still there a little, but I'll just bend the blades more next time I'm under. Thanks also kevlar for the help.

A little dip and recover is probably unavoidable with very hard shots — but the fact that it does recover is the point. If you adjust them to be too ‘hair trigger’ at the very end of he stroke you may have trouble with them flutter-registering.

11
#3841 7 months ago

I've owned my R&M just over a week and besides bending the scoop down a little have held off on making any playfield adjustments. I've been really happy with how the game played out of the box but did get a few more scoop rejects than I would have liked. It wasn't bad but this morning I thought I'd add washers to see if it would help. I added 2 thin washers to the front of the scoop and one to each side thinking with the thought that it would angle the scoop a slight bit down. I also added mylar to the edge and the area in front of the scoop for extra protection.

After doing this and playing a few games the verdict is that this really helped a lot! I took a couple short videos so you can see for yourself. Be warned that there is always the risk of playfield damage by lowering the scoop slightly but for me I figured I can monitor the area for damage and reverse if needed. I'm never selling this game anyway so I may as well have it play as good as possible! Neither are my best games but they show off the gameplay fairly well.


This video has some nice loop shots and multiball.


This one has Meeseeks MB

#3842 7 months ago

Added a couple short LED strips to the topper. The camera makes the LEDs wash out the artwork, but it doesn't in real life. Now you can see it even when the portal isnt active and in a dark room.

20200621_115723 (resized).jpg
#3843 7 months ago

My best game since adding washers to my game this morning. Unfortunately it was marred by a ball search around the 5:30 mark. Really happy with how its playing now!

#3844 7 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Added a couple short LED strips to the topper. The camera makes the LEDs wash out the artwork, but it doesn't in real life. Now you can see it even when the portal isnt active and in a dark room.
[quoted image]

Looks great, hard to tell from the photo but is the Led strip in front of or behind the front plastic of the topper?

#3845 7 months ago

$1.00 to a donut, behind.

#3846 7 months ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I've owned my R&M just over a week and besides bending the scoop down a little have held off on making any playfield adjustments. I've been really happy with how the game played out of the box but did get a few more scoop rejects than I would have liked. It wasn't bad but this morning I thought I'd add washers to see if it would help. I added 2 thin washers to the front of the scoop and one to each side thinking with the thought that it would angle the scoop a slight bit down. I also added mylar to the edge and the area in front of the scoop for extra protection.
After doing this and playing a few games the verdict is that this really helped a lot! I took a couple short videos so you can see for yourself. Be warned that there is always the risk of playfield damage by lowering the scoop slightly but for me I figured I can monitor the area for damage and reverse if needed. I'm never selling this game anyway so I may as well have it play as good as possible! Neither are my best games but they show off the gameplay fairly well.

This video has some nice loop shots and multiball.

This one has Meeseeks MB

on the first video at the 1 minute mark you got a slam save, the ball times also went to 8 seconds? is that what it's supposed to do, I thought it was just an immediate save?

#3847 7 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Looks great, hard to tell from the photo but is the Led strip in front of or behind the front plastic of the topper?

It's behind.

#3848 7 months ago

Ive got a mod request. Has anyone found a good solution to make the right ramp flow better at the exit? Currently balls hit the exit bumper and rebound 3-4" back up the ramp which adds time and also introduces ball spin. Ive had a handful of instances where the ball will exit the ramp with enough backspin to crawl up over the right outline which results in a cheap drain. Ive found a cheap and not elegant solution which is to place a couple pieces of beer seal on the sides of the ramp (see picture). This makes it flow better and solves all the issues but doesn't look very elegant. Maybe replacing the current exit pad with a piece of drop dead foam or some other type of stop mechanism would be better?

20200621_174134 (resized).jpg
#3849 7 months ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Ive got a mod request. Has anyone found a good solution to make the right ramp flow better at the exit? Currently balls hit the exit bumper and rebound 3-4" back up the ramp which adds time and also introduces ball spin. Ive had a handful of instances where the ball will exit the ramp with enough backspin to crawl up over the right outline which results in a cheap drain. Ive found a cheap and not elegant solution which is to place a couple pieces of beer seal on the sides of the ramp (see picture). This makes it flow better and solves all the issues but doesn't look very elegant. Maybe replacing the current exit pad with a piece of drop dead foam or some other type of stop mechanism would be better?[quoted image]

Mine seems fine. How steep is your game. I have my levers up in the back high

#3850 7 months ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

Mine seems fine. How steep is your game. I have my levers up in the back high

Yeah its probably a combination of pitch and being freshly waxed. I'm running it pretty steep. Leg levelers still have about 1/2" at the top.

Even with my ramp mod, it isn't enough to prevent it from happening. Check out around minute 1 in this video. Still managed to put up 26.8 million, but its frustrating! I do like how the ramp feeds better with the end modded though.


20200621_201229 (resized).jpg20200621_201256 (resized).jpg

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