I hope we get some new and different Morty’s to play as i.e. Eric Stoltz “Mask” Morty.

As far as adventures, I’m really hoping for the Vindicators, Heistcon and Vat of Acid.
For some reason I really want to hear “look at the bones on that rat” as a callout.

I’m sure whatever dimensions Ep cooks up will be dope.

I get that "messing with flippers" is a PITA, but I think the effort is worth the reward in this case (it's the flippers, after all). Spooky did the right thing and produced proper fitting flipper bushings because it's the right solution. IMHO, the flipper brackets should be mounted directly to the PF...inserting spacers is a cool quick hack, but sticking with it for an extended period when you have proper bushings in hand doesn't make sense to me. My $.02.

Amen. Frankly, I think it has more personality/character than any game I've owned.

You guys are insane.

PF layout on this game is amazing.

No Flow? My Flow Mobius is sitting at 10 shots...that's quite the combo, there.

Sorry. Unless you just plain suck at pinball, I can't see how you could find this game anything but refreshing.

Code is great. With Adventure Card set at 0 (not at factory pre), you have an extremely challenging task to make it to Love Potion #9.

Still playing my machine as it was sent from the factory and have no problems hitting any of the shots (when I actually hit them).

I think you responded to the wrong thread. No one here was disputing that...that was a discussion in the next spooky thread.

Damn.
You are right! Crossed up my response.

Sorry about that.

I will say that after adding the spacers to drop the flippers, my game has suffered...mostly because of the muscle memory I built with the original set up. It is interesting. Feels like the upper flipper is giving me the hardest trouble, probably because timing is so crucial. But I am going to keep playing because I do like how the lower flippers feel now. Can still backhand the right ramp. If I couldn't do that, I would have switched back!

No matter what, when you realign flippers, you’ll probably never got them all exactly where they were. I need to revisit my upper but I’m afraid the pawl isn’t up to another tightening. I need to see if I still have an extra before I give it a whirl.

Heistcon would be an amazing mode. Hit a shot to collect one of the crew, then hit the scoop to trigger a "You son of a bitch, I'm in" cut scene. Rinse and repeat, then have to hit some crazy combo as the "twist ending." Yes, please.

I went with the X spacers due to easier install + not wanting to need special "Spooky" flipper bushings forever more for this game. I'd rather have the spacers installed and use regular widely available bushings.

But really, either way solves the problem. Highly recommended.

For the record, it sounds like Spooky bushings will be around for awhile as I believe they stated they would be used in the new game as well.

I know you qualified this statement with IMHO and My $0.02 and I definitely appreciate your opinion, but I am curious as what others think about it. I am planning on installing the spacers this weekend, but if there really is some kind of advantage to using the shorter bushings/direct mount to playfield over the spacers, I might change my mind.

Seems like the same end result with the spacers being an easier install. Plus, I already bought the spacers, so there is that.

Bought the spacers, have the updated bushings. Personally, the spacers were an easier install and I hate taking out the flipper bat/pawl/bushings -- as mentioned above, it's practically impossible to get it back even the first time through, and the pawls tend to have a limited life of on again/off again. I am very happy with the spacers as I'm getting the desired result with minimal effort.

When it comes time to rebuild the flipper mechs on the game, I'll take the bushings out and replace them with the shorter ones. I personally don't feel the need to do a rebuild-level of effort right now. I fully appreciate the bushings being the correct height is the "correct" fix and feels better, but I'm getting what I need now and I have what I need later.

Your mileage -- clearly, based on the variety of opinions already shared -- will vary. But I'm happy with my spacers.

Ditto this... Exactly.

The spacers do the exact same thing without doing a flipper rebuild. The flippers will need to be rebuilt down the road when they wear out, and put the proper bushings in at that time. But in the meantime, just use what is already there with the spacers. Otherwise, you are replacing perfectly good parts which is a waste of time and money.

A significant advantage to replacing the bushings might not be obvious now, but in a few years.

Replacing the bushings will avoid disaster when it's time for more comprehensive work that requires more than just the fipper mechs to come off... and you (or a subsequent owner) don't remember or notice the "shimmed" flipper mechs used longer screws, and thus mix one up with a standard one en route to poking a nice ruinous topside hole through that otherwise beautiful PF.

Replacing the bushing will avail the consistent use of OEM disaster-proof "short" screws throughout, and prevent this nightmare. For that alone I intend to replace the bushing as soon as it makes "sense" to do so. The mild PITA now could spare a crushing heartache later.

Failing that, at the VERY LEAST you should paint the heads of longer shim-screws to make their difference readily obvious!

Can anyone tell me how to achieve the extra ball, just realized I've been playing the game for a few weeks and I still haven't done it.

Thanks

Enter 3 different dimensions, and it will light up on the left inner orbit. I think you can also get one from the scoop.

I haven't looked, but I imagine you can change that dimension # in the settings.

Thanks everyone!

My plan is to install the spacers with a dab of paint on the new screw heads and then put the original screws in a bag in the coinbox with a note to my future self/next owner that says "Use With Shorter Flipper Bushings".

Just to be clear...I already had ~800 games played and my coil stops and plungers had some wear, so I decided to rebuild the flippers coincident with getting the new bushings. It took me the better part of an afternoon to do all 3 flippers (the right bottom flipper is really awkward to fiddle with).

If the spacers truly produced the same result, Spooky and their parts supplier would have sent us spacers (rather than do the costly retooling on the flipper bushings). Again, the spacer is a cool/clever hack. Different strokes. Rebuilding flippers isn't that difficult and I'm not into the potential of unintended consequences of installing adhoc flipper solutions.

I adjusted my garage shot following the various directions listed here, but I'm still getting a ton of rattling. Do I want to add more curve or less on the lower rail?

And what's the best method to adjust the switches to get more consistent switch hits?

I was thinking the other part of that episode with the reset button. Start the mode, rack up points, but if you hit the Morty target, your score resets

It's tight as really the rail is a bit too short. You should be following the art pretty close, and the bottom end of the rail end up just slightly above the post. That spot will not line up exactly. To get it truly where it needs to be you have to loosen your wood rail on the left and slide one of the tabs under it IIRC. It will be very tight up against a bulb. Some people left screws out in the middle, but I put in new holes so it isn't wobbling.

I cannot vouch for the life of the spacers any more than I can vouch for the life of a bushing. With my purely anecdotal evidence I will say that I have seen cracked bushings, but to date I have never seen a cracked spacer (granted I don’t know of a game with a spaced flipper mech ). With the data we have, I think it is slightly premature to think that spacers are a temp fix.

As for resale machines, I could say that if I went to replace bushings on a machine then realized my existing stock of bushings do not work, I would be pretty pissed.

I designed and used the spacers because I cannot bear to see a small company customize an irrelevant part of a machine like this. Even if the design, casting, testing, etc. cost them less than $1000 (which I doubt) it is a waste.

I installed the spacers because rebuilding flippers is a pain. Yes, it is technically “easy” and I have done it at least 100 times, but it is annoying to me. I tried to think of ultra convenience with my design. I even printed them in high contrast colors so you could easily see them through the existing mech holes.

As for the cost, I am the first to tell you that I am charging too much. As I said early on, I priced these based on my time and materials. I am confident someone could make them for way less but screws, envelopes, shipping and time add up. I shared the design so that anyone who has or knows anyone with a 3D printer could create them.

For the record, I messaged Spooky KT on these forums and offered my solution to them for free. I did not get a message back, so I went ahead and kept selling them.

I am sure nobody was looking for the opinion from the guy who is selling the damn things, but there it is .

AS an experienced fitter and machinist, I would suggest that using the spacers is not ideal as a long term solution.

The problem I see is that these will allow for movement that will not occur to the same degree when the metal plate is clamped directly to the wood. They will act like a slipper between the wood and the base plate (more 'mobility'), and this means that screws will work their way loose more readily than with direct attachment.

It is already effort enough keeping flipper mech screws tight over time, on any pinball really, and spacing the flipper mech further away will inevitably compound this problem.

The kosher way is to have the mech clamped directly to the playfield. Metal washers would be more stable than plastic, as well, but this can increase risk of breaching the playfield surface with the wrong length screws by accident/misshap.

I cut my lower 2 bushes down with the mechs still in the game (using some ad-hok tooling), Spooky has sent me out a set of the updated bushes and I will replace all 3 when they arrive.

That's my 2c on the subject. It is an informed/reasoned opinion, I have not tested the hypothesis.

Also not meaning to detract from Aniraf substantial effort. Good work, and well done providing a very good quick fix for so many RaM owners!

None of my posts questioned your cost, price, motivation, or resale impact, so I'm confused why your long-winded response is directed at me.

Random note: I've owned 60-70 machines over 20 years and have never had a cracked bushing.

Minor/obvious point: Rebuilding flippers is a normal part of maintaining a pinball machine.

Not less than a year in on a non routed game. I can say I've only ever had to rebuilt 2 flippers in my life, and honestly the flipper mech as a whole is due for a redesign.

Ok, speaking of flippers, I could use some advice.

I replaced all 3 bushings with the new shorter one''s I just got from Spooky and now I cannot make the left ramp. The lower right flipper only has enough power to make it 2/3 of the way up. I've checked it twice and fiddled with it and don't see anything obviously wrong. I can still backhand the right ramp and it seems zippy enough for every shot other than the left ramp.

I'm no pro at dicking with flippers, but the other two flippers seem to be working fine and I can make all shots with no problem.

I've tried messing with the flipper power settings from 25 up to 40 and I'm not seeing any difference.

Game is still level and I'm at 6.9 degrees. It was always a tough shot, but never had any problems with the left ramp on the old bushings.

This is seriously the best game I've ever owned, just need it working 100% again.

Any advice?

Adjust the gap between the flipper bat and the bushing.

As in I need more of a gap?

Thanks

Sticking a credit card between the flipper and the bushing above the playfield worked for me. You will have to loosen the mech before doing this a little and then tighten with the credit card still in place.

Also make sure you are running the latest update so changing your flipper settings will actually be recognized without a power cycle (but you probably know this).

Thanks everyone! I'll double check the gap.

And yeah I'm running the latest code.

I've never had a cracked original B/W bushing. I've had plenty of new ones crack to the point where I will absolutely not replace a bushing as part of a flipper rebuild on older games.

Oh no, sorry! Not at you. I was just dumping my thoughts and i quoted that one thing you said on the strength.

Everyone is being totally cool in this forum. I don’t feel threatened or anything. Sorry it is hard to write stuff without it taking on emotional tones.

I struggle to believe that the spacer would shift or break, but full disclosure I didn’t believe 1/8th of an inch on the flippers would change the game.

In my (not so many as others here, I know) years working on pins, I'm consistently amazed at how just 1mm can make or break a mech, shot, or overall package. I refuse to believe pf designers analyze their full comprehensive shot geometry with a micrometer, but it's clear no space is ever fully taken for granted. Considering how sensitive flippers are to that "credit card thick gap" between the bat and the shaft, or how finicky their precise alignment relative to lane guides and intended shots can be, 1/8" may as well be a mile. It very well is depending on the application. And I'm still shocked these games were made with that huge error/discrepancy apparently unaccounted for at first.

For another demonstration, see games that use bell-shaped rubber post sleeves, and the massive change in rebounds from flipping them upside-down (or changing to cylindrical post sleeves). Or getting airballs from an extra 1/16" deflection of a standup switch with a misadjusted keeper bracket. Etc...

This has also boggled my mind. The lead programmer was testing on a non prod game which we already know...
Are the people who made this game so good at pinball that it doesn't matter how bad the shots are working, they seem fine to them? No rattling? etc? No one noticed the flipper difference?
Or is what they are testing on just that drastically different from what was being made on the line?

All sorts of questions like this. It's not a knock on Spooky specifically, I really don't have enough personal experience with NiB from other companies. I could see where it somehow got missed regarding the difference in height, or maybe someone said it won't matter....but you would think after making the first one, and testing it...someone would have said something feels off rather than just chalk everything up to 'oh it's a hard game'.
'
It would be interesting to just have this discussion, without anyone getting offended as a lessons learned thing. At least to me.

I used the X spacers. I realize the new bushings are the correct part to use. Game playing fantastic with the lowered flippers.

Thanks to snaroff for bringing up the flipper height. I had no idea.

Thanks to Aniraf for making an easy to install alternative that might turn out to be more than just a temporary fix.

To everyone who installed the x spacers, PLEASE leave yourself (or the potential future owner of your game) a warning note about the longer screws you used with the spacers. Do it now. Someone is going to switch to shorter bushings with longer screws and go through the pf. Don't be that someone.

Nevermind, i figured it out

20210701_201042 (resized).jpg

This is what really (initially) chapped me about the game and the responses I got from the thread here. I’ve been around pinball long enough to know when a game shoots well and when it doesn’t. I also know good design vs poor design (looking at you diverter and ball launch wire form).

And when I got my game it was a clunk-fest of rattlers and rejects. After further inspection it became difficult to distinguish between manufacturing defects (twisted ball guides, ungracious ball guide radii, poorly aligned ramp, switches being missed, etc.) and intentionally ‘difficult’ shots. I questioned this early on and was flamed pretty good for it.

So I tore my PF apart and just began posting my modifications. I can now say the game shoots amazingly well and is what I was expecting out of the box.

I appreciate Spooky for being receptive to the constructive criticism and making changes to their manufacturing techniques. Mistakes should be painful, and I think they learned a lot of good lessons with R&M. I’m really looking forward to seeing how Halloween and ??? turned out with the new processes in place.

This is probably a smart idea. I would be heart broken if someone removed the spacers and then screwed through the playfield. Maybe that is why Spooky went with bushings? I don’t think the 5/8th screws will break the surface, but they could dimple it.

I had exactly one on a Firepower I bought. The game was pretty beat before I restored it, but the whole top of the bushing was cracked and tore off when I removed the flipper.

Another note, like I said…everyone is great in this thread. However you do it, lower those flippers! I’ll work on something for the switches when I get home per WizardsCastle request. Important hind sight, my outline wires can actually stop a ball. It is rare, so I didn’t really think about it. They might be nice to lower or bend the wire.

Ditto here.

The biggest WTF? moment I had was the implimentation of the diverter, with screw heads blatantly sticking out for the ball to hit and rattle. That diverter has been the most epic fail of RaM design or manufacture imho.

What the fix for this?

I used a Dremel on mine and took more of the lock nut off. My friends game is perfect and makes no contact with the back board. Someone else on here made a welded diverted that looked excellent, but it was a one off and not for sale.

Anyone willing to make these if enough of agree to purchase and make it worth your time?

Also, any before/after pics?

That would be mine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/269#post-6272701

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/269#post-6275136

Ya, so yesterday I installed the new bushing into my ram and wow. I’m pretty skeptical of information on pinside especially when it’s “x fixes y” but let me also just add to what others have said and say this is a must ( and a correct) fix for ram. For anyone out there doubting the flipper bushings, don’t. The functionality is night and day post correction and I highly recommend it. The game now shoots less like a maladjusted wide body and more like my Iron Maiden ( my only real complaint with the game was how it shoots, and I wondered why spooky got away from what ever they had with TNA, this fix makes ram shoot like TNA imho).

This has been treated a number of ways, as Lounge and Aniraf have shared what they did.

I think Lounge might have tried my solution, but went a bit too far with the bending, and maybe not sharp enough bend (I was using a tool to get a defined 'kink').

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/164#post-5984607

This is the post with my solution. I kinked at the diverter shaft (using a shifter to hold the diverter flap itself straight, and give a sharp kink), 30 degrees not more not less. This has the effect of 'concealing' the screw heads so that the ball can not hit the lower one.

I also put a slight curve in the diverter over its length, and a tail on the end to help transition when diverter is activated to spinner.

Go too far with bending and there will not be enough length of the flap for it to still reach the ball guide that it rests on when it is activated. What you see in the pictures left about 1/16" overlap where the diverter tip comes to meet the spinner ball guide. This was enough I thought, and the diverter has never jumped to the inside, or past the spinner guide.

I tried this before I went removing any of the diverter assembly, it was successful for me making this tweak with the diverter fully installed. After the tweak I needed to adjust the crank position below the playfield to make up for the 30 degrees of bend.

I wasn't sure this would work, I had a backup plan if it didn't which was something along the lines of replacing the screws with counter-sunk, as they probably should have been for the design anyway. Turns out my punt paid off and I did not need to do this in the end.

Hope this helps, but I wouldn't recommend unless it is clear to see how I achieved my result.

Also games seem to vary a bit, so may not work the same for everyone.

I also had to straighten up the wonky ball guide at outer right orbit that leads up to the diverter pivot.

I did not have the problem that some games had where where the screw ends or nuts would bind or scrape on the backboard.

Just watched Bowen tutorial again as it's so good.

Just wondering did the slut dragons ever make it into the game?

No - not yet anyway. Fingers crossed.