(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

1 year ago


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#10101 10 months ago
Quoted from Manic:

I've spent a blistering hour or three on "tweaking". Changed the flipper rubbers and replaced the fan that sounded like a Concord landing in the living room.
I "could" fool around with some of the guides but it's playing damn good so I figure I'll wait.
.

I've probably spent ~5-6 hours including: adjusting both the garage shot and upper loop guide rails, full replacement of rubbers to titans, and fixing the bushing on my right flipper. I'm still fairly new to pinball, but it's all been similar to what I've done with other games. Seems like there is always something that bothers me enough to require a little tweaking.

24
#10102 10 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

How does JJP manage to?
Why does PBL keep selling only the other style?
I have 3 JJP machines and have owned 5 total and never had it break.
Locktite? Why?

I don't know. I bet they wonder how we manage to make such good playfields.

#10103 10 months ago
Quoted from JustEverett:

I've probably spent ~5-6 hours including: adjusting both the garage shot and upper loop guide rails, full replacement of rubbers to titans, and fixing the bushing on my right flipper. I'm still fairly new to pinball, but it's all been similar to what I've done with other games. Seems like there is always something that bothers me enough to require a little tweaking.

There are some different methods for the garage shot rail adjustments with some ending up scratching the playfield or being implemented by spooky later on. Have we had a post that says what to try and achieve over all for these? I seem to get some bricks on the garage shot opening i would love to solve but it seems like multiple approaches are covered.

#10104 10 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

I think he was having trouble loading the latest code on a very early build game that had very early code so thought he would try incremental updates to see if that might work.

The code update completely replaces the game code - incremental does nothing.

#10105 10 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

The code update completely replaces the game code - incremental does nothing.

I guessed as much but that’s what the original request was for. Maybe you can suggest why he can’t update the code?

Quoted from Magicchiz:

I too am looking for a older code. We picked up a very early game and the new code is not loading. even with trying twice.
Tried all sort of different usb drives.
Game just says update required.
Magicchiz

#10106 10 months ago

If its an old version of the code, then maybe this note on the spooky update page helps:

Update Notes

- If you are updating from 2020.03.17 or earlier you must run the update TWO TIMES.

#10107 10 months ago
Quoted from JohnDeere:

There are some different methods for the garage shot rail adjustments with some ending up scratching the playfield or being implemented by spooky later on. Have we had a post that says what to try and achieve over all for these? I seem to get some bricks on the garage shot opening i would love to solve but it seems like multiple approaches are covered.

I've taken that side apart twice trying to dial it in, but did most of the adjustment the first time. I think what helped mine the most was loosening the siderail and removing the screw closest to the siderail near the end of the curve. Removing that screw and tucking that tab under the siderail was the only way I was able make a really smooth curve. I also moved the screw for the entrance. I didn't really take any pics of my changes. It's still a really tough shot, but these changes helped it flow a lot better. Prior to those changes I was getting a lot of rattle outs and rejections.

#10108 10 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

I just don't understand why anyone would want to go backwards. There have been significant fixes in every public release thus far.

After spending two hours stuck at a blank screen with a flashing cursor in the top left corner due to repeated attempts to update from the 2020.10.12 build to the current code using multiple USB drives, the next logical troubleshooting step would have been to attempt to reinstall the previous version.

Luckily I remembered I had a fifth (seriously) USB drive to try that I had been using in my car to play music, and this drive finally succeeded at installing the latest code.

If there is any way to have these updates fail with an error message instead of appearing to succeed and leaving the game unplayable, it would be super helpful.

#10109 10 months ago
Quoted from Manic:

Some muscular minion at Spooky had cranked the connectors down so hard that getting them off the power supply was one of the tougher things I had to do lately.

It really would be nice if Spooky made a $1 running change to those connectors on the back so there's a short series of wire going to a molex connector that allows it to be plugged and unplugged easily without unscrewing from the actual terminal blocks on the power supply itself. It's the way Spike is set up and the correct way to do it.

#10110 10 months ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

I don't know. I bet they wonder how we manage to make such good playfields.

JJP still has Bader nightmares from their first go-round with them where early WoZ playfield art came off in chunks, so they're understandably not romantic about Bader despite your obvious success with them.

#10111 10 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I think I win the award for weirdest place to lose the ball! I lost a ball under the playfield during play. In a multiball I saw 2 balls collide, one go airborne, and fly down the left side between the apron and the side rail. I never would have found it if I wasn't watching closely.

I've had this happen once

#10112 10 months ago
Quoted from Manic:

Looks nice but I assume that dustbuster whine is the game's original power supply fan and not your mod right? Hearing that whine brought it all back again! Vic's fan kit is a MUST but getting the power supply out with the PF in the way killed my back with the contortions I had to make
Some muscular minion at Spooky had cranked the connectors down so hard that getting them off the power supply was one of the tougher things I had to do lately.
.

Heh, it's like a megaphone of how I was recording, the glass off, the game not making any noise and the fan already being replaced. Also, top portal motor wasn't running, like it would be. It's highly amplified in that video.

#10113 10 months ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

I don't know. I bet they wonder how we manage to make such good playfields.

Did you? Or did the company you hire do it?

#10114 10 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

It's a public build. No real harm in it. I just don't understand why anyone would want to go backwards. There have been significant fixes in every public release thus far.

I think it'd be common for someone to want to revert if prior releases worked and latest does not. Not saying it's likely the issue but if prior upgrades worked and the latest doesn't then it seems like a reason.

#10115 10 months ago

Latest code works fine. Eric wouldn’t release an update that doesn’t work. Op needed a different usb stick. There is a huge variability in these sticks. Some work right away and others are not detected for some reason. When you find one that works just keep using it.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

I think it'd be common for someone to want to revert if prior releases worked and latest does not. Not saying it's likely the issue but if prior upgrades worked and the latest doesn't then it seems like a reason.

#10116 10 months ago
Quoted from TireFryer426:

The second is with the horseshoe. Mine seems to have a little wobble on the left side that will result in a SDTM if I hit the right side hard.
Intended or no?

There is a setting for a ball save time on horseshoe - I set mine to 2 seconds.

#10117 10 months ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Latest code works fine. Eric wouldn’t release an update that doesn’t work. Op needed a different usb stick. There is a huge variability in these sticks. Some work right away and others are not detected for some reason. When you find one that works just keep using it.

Yeah, I'm not saying he would or that was the issue just that it isn't uncommon to do this with software and so old releases being available isn't odd.

#10118 10 months ago

Why’s everyone so snarky about this guy asking for old code? These guys are just trying to fix their bricked games and it seems like a logical step to try a different or older version of code since they had a really early release. Instead of all these overly sensitive defensive comments, how about trying to help these guys?

#10119 10 months ago

If you ask me the main problem is it shouldn't be rocket science and have to order a specific USB stick from a galaxy far away to update a game. Why do pinball manufacturers seem to have more of an issue with this than any other device that uses USB?

#10120 10 months ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Latest code works fine. Eric wouldn’t release an update that doesn’t work. Op needed a different usb stick. There is a huge variability in these sticks. Some work right away and others are not detected for some reason. When you find one that works just keep using it.

That last bit is sage advice. I (we?) have been dealing with this ever since Stern gave us the ability to flash code via USB and dealing with it is just part of the penalty we pay for these luxury toys.

I literally have a bag of different USB sticks marked with the type of machine they work on. You just never know what'll work, be it a tradeshow POS freebie or one you bought at BB for thirty bucks, there seems to be no rhyme nor reason.

I was going to post links to ones I know are reliable but sadly (at least on Amazon) they're NLA because the world has moved far beyond 8GB flash drives. Folks may do best to see what's available at their local supermarket as they tend to have older stock sometimes. If it helps, I'm having great success with Patriot and Transcend.

#10121 10 months ago

SanDisk Ultra USB 3.0 32GB worked for me first try, no reformatting necessary. 8 bucks at Walmart.

I didn't even bother trying older USB thumb drives I had laying around first. This one goes right on the R&M key ring!

#10122 10 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

If you ask me the main problem is it shouldn't be rocket science and have to order a specific USB stick from a galaxy far away to update a game. Why do pinball manufacturers seem to have more of an issue with this than any other device that uses USB?

Agreed, but that seems to be the world we live in. The problem would not be as potentially catastrophic if the machine could somehow test the integrity of an installation and determine that it would fail before erasing the old code, instead of pretending that the update succeeded and asking the user to power cycle only to find that the machine will no longer boot.

In any case, the ability to download code from the internet and update machines without having to burn (or pay someone to burn) rom chips is still a huge advancement.

Quoted from mrbillishere:

That last bit is sage advice. I (we?) have been dealing with this ever since Stern gave us the ability to flash code via USB and dealing with it is just part of the penalty we pay for these luxury toys.
I literally have a bag of different ones marked with the type of machine they work on. You just never know what'll work, be it a tradeshow POS freebie or one you bought at BB for thirty bucks, there seems to be no rhyme nor reason.
I was going to post links to ones I know are reliable but sadly (at least on Amazon) they're NLA because the world has moved far beyond 8GB flash drives. Folks may do best to see what's available at their local supermarket as they tend to have older stock sometimes. If it helps, I'm having great success with Patriot and Transcend.

Truly. I was even at one point last night repartitioning larger drives to a single < 8GB partition. Go figure, the one that ended up working for me was 128Gb and I didn't even have to remove the music files that were already stored on it, let alone reformat.

#10123 10 months ago

would like to be added to the list, please toyotaboy

#10124 10 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I was over at the pub so I whipped out the verniers for a bit of a survey of TNA while I was there.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Then back at the workshop I took the same pics for RaM.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
TNA playfield is about 1/16" thicker, but with less plies.
Both games are fitted with playfield protectors that are 0.70mm.
RaM flipper bushes have been trimmed by 1.5mm (about 1/16"). This made an extremely noticeable difference to how well the flippers worked.
Both games flip beautifully.
I identified (confirmed) a while ago that the left RaM flipper is not sitting quite square because the bat is not moulded exactly square to the shaft. It still works just fine though.
So, my bats are now 2.2mm or so closer to the play surface, than a box game with the original bushings that does not have a protector.
*BTW Anyone considering a "Playfield Protectors" protector, they don't fit without a whole bunch of trimming. I emailed them with basic details of the half dozen or more places where changes were obviously made (from early prototype I assume) and where fairly dramatic changes are needed. I offered to send detailed pics, but I have never heard back from them.

Thx for the info razorsedge - looks like TNA may be ok - though im not using a protector on TNA, so maybe it would benefit from 1-2mm trimming of the bushings. Havent reallly had flippier power issues on TNA, though do suffer from flipper drop on strong direct hits.

#10125 10 months ago

I am an idiot, and just shorted something out while adjusting my pop bumper switch. Now, my left flipper, left drop reset, drop, and garage flasher, and probably some other things stopped working. Can anyone tell me which fuse needs to be replaced? Also, did this game come with extra fuses?

#10126 10 months ago
Quoted from lapean111:

I am an idiot, and just shorted something out while adjusting my pop bumper switch. Now, my left flipper, left drop reset, drop, and garage flasher, and probably some other things stopped working. Can anyone tell me which fuse needs to be replaced? Also, did this game come with extra fuses?

Found the blown fuse, can anyone tell me the spec for the fuse?

EDIT:
Its a 250v T4AL (So 4amp slow blow). Found a pack of them on Amazon.

#10127 10 months ago
Quoted from lapean111:

Found the blown fuse, can anyone tell me the spec for the fuse?
EDIT:
Its a 250v T4AL (So 4amp slow blow). Found a pack of them on Amazon.

Ace hardware has them and there are a number in St. Paul. Some are open until 9pm. BUSS fuses in a yellow package.

#10128 10 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Ace hardware has them and there are a number in St. Paul. Some are open until 9pm. BUSS fuses in a yellow package.

Thanks man! Will run tomorrow, the time of night at which I should be driving has past due to today's celebrations.

-1
#10129 10 months ago

This is the whiniest owners thread I’ve ever been a part of.

#10130 10 months ago
Quoted from lapean111:

Thanks man! Will run tomorrow, the time of night at which I should be driving has past due to today's celebrations.

I just realized that this is R&M and it uses the shorter fuses. I don't think Ace carries the short 20mm ones.

#10131 10 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I just realized that this is R&M and it uses the shorter fuses. I don't think Ace carries the short 20mm ones.

That's ok, the Amazon ones come Friday. I can play other games until then. Thanks for the heads up on Ace for other games though!

#10132 10 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I just realized that this is R&M and it uses the shorter fuses. I don't think Ace carries the short 20mm ones.

Yeah, they are all 5 x 20mm, mostly 4amp slo-blo, same as my houdini.

#10133 10 months ago
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:

This is the whiniest owners thread I’ve ever been a part of.

I understand and take part in the conversation for things like shot adjustments but the amount of times it just devolves into petty whining and finger pointing about things is a bummer. I feel like spooky being so active and helpful in here makes some be even more abrasive for whatever reason, because they know its seen. Being in the TWD thread for years we had nothing but issues (STDM drains from the pops(!), bricked shots to riot, Well walker breaking, prison doors not registering hits, roll overs not working for skill shot, no lighting in bicycle girl, rail adjustments for shooter lane and barn shot, crossbow constantly breaking and bricking the game, etc etc) but at the end of the day we knew it was a good game and it was fun to fix and tinker to make it perfect, not an opportunity to constantly call out Stern for something. Pinball is hard, all the games play different and everyone will not have it set perfectly the same as they did play testing. Just a few degrees off will make a rail reject or a shot be off that may of tested fine. This is ok, thats why its fun to own these things so you can dial it in. God forbid my game came out of the box with no improvements I could make, whats the fun in that?

#10134 10 months ago
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:

This is the whiniest owners thread I’ve ever been a part of.

Thanks for your contribution.

#10135 10 months ago
Quoted from JohnDeere:

I understand and take part in the conversation for things like shot adjustments but the amount of times it just devolves into petty whining and finger pointing about things is a bummer. I feel like spooky being so active and helpful in here makes some be even more abrasive for whatever reason, because they know its seen. Being in the TWD thread for years we had nothing but issues (STDM drains from the pops(!), bricked shots to riot, Well walker breaking, prison doors not registering hits, roll overs not working for skill shot, no lighting in bicycle girl, rail adjustments for shooter lane and barn shot, crossbow constantly breaking and bricking the game, etc etc) but at the end of the day we knew it was a good game and it was fun to fix and tinker to make it perfect, not an opportunity to constantly call out Stern for something. Pinball is hard, all the games play different and everyone will not have it set perfectly the same as they did play testing. Just a few degrees off will make a rail reject or a shot be off that may of tested fine. This is ok, thats why its fun to own these things so you can dial it in. God forbid my game came out of the box with no improvements I could make, whats the fun in that?

I agree that it’s a shame people use this thread as a sounding board for their issues and complaints, especially when they direct them at spooky employees specifically.

However, I disagree because where else would owners vent their frustrations? And unlike other companies, Spooky actually has a presence here, taking feedback, and answering questions, which they’ve been applauded for on many occasions. As long as it’s constructive, I wouldn’t classify it as whining and is totally welcome.

#10136 10 months ago
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:

This is the whiniest owners thread I’ve ever been a part of.

I wouldn't call it whiny. But it's definitely very (maybe "over"-) active! It just speaks to the passion that the Spooky team, their customers, and R&M fans have for this game. I mean, I've been on Pinside for 6 years, own a dozen older games and have cycled more out of my collection, and I think I've posted more on this thread than any other club thread, or my own resto threads, *even though my R&M won't even be built until the very end of the run*!

At any rate, compare this thread to any other "newer game" club thread, or even the threads for popular legacy games, and it's pretty consistent: Excitement, newbies, oldies, rehashes, mod developments, troubleshooting, more troubleshooting, more developments, excitement, and the occasional limited trolling and off-topic diversions. Even posts that seem "whiny" aren't unusual given the natural ebb and flow of things.

The biggest difference here is that the Spooky team actually participates, acknowledges a fair portion of feedback, and can probably tell the legitimate gripes and constructive criticisms from folks that either don't know better yet or just like to make noise. And prehaps expectations are higher given the team's ability, the game's promise, and "pinball at large" in 2021. But thanks to this thread, some design issues have been acknowledged and addressed. Beyond that, things will always break, and there are infinite tweaks al dente, no matter which game or who made it or when. The community here is helping everyone get the best experience out of R&M, and for that I'm grateful... and hope to contribute in return.

Pinball is not for the weak: these machines are like nothing else you can buy or own. Some folks aren't ready for that, understandably, but anyone truly whiny won't last long here or any other thread.

Ugh, I talk too much... <-- There: I just whined, and gave everyone else a legit gripe too.

#10137 10 months ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

I agree that it’s a shame people use this thread as a sounding board for their issues and complaints, especially when they direct them at spooky employees specifically.
However, I disagree because where else would owners vent their frustrations? And unlike other companies, Spooky actually has a presence here, taking feedback, and answering questions, which they’ve been applauded for on many occasions. As long as it’s constructive, I wouldn’t classify it as whining and is totally welcome.

I tried to use the rail adjustment to differentiate between 'constructive' and whining but to clarify I 100% agree with you on posts that gave us things like rail adjustments, leg warping, code bugs, etc that have given spooky a ton of good feedback that they have taken and ran with. 99% of the posts on here are like that, but sometimes it turns into just straight up attacks or off handed remarks about X thing that should never of passed QC or how i paid all this money and I should never have to change things blah blah. That's just toxic and makes it so we wont have Spooky be in here as often, its also why if you notice most companies don't bother.

10
#10138 10 months ago
Quoted from JohnDeere:

I tried to use the rail adjustment to differentiate between 'constructive' and whining but to clarify I 100% agree with you on posts that gave us things like rail adjustments, leg warping, code bugs, etc that have given spooky a ton of good feedback that they have taken and ran with. 99% of the posts on here are like that, but sometimes it turns into just straight up attacks or off handed remarks about X thing that should never of passed QC or how i paid all this money and I should never have to change things blah blah. That's just toxic and makes it so we wont have Spooky be in here as often, its also why if you notice most companies don't bother.

I've made 164 posts on this topic and I don't see toxicity or attacks toward Spooky. Just the opposite...I see an excited group of owners that just want the game to play to it's full potential. Spooky is here because they care about their product and customers...worrying about scaring them away? Doubt it. I've been on Pinside for quite awhile and Stern was never engaged on Pinside...they weren't scared away, they just don't care. This is one of the reasons I decided to buy my first Spooky game...if they treated their customers like Stern, I definitely wouldn't be supporting them. Feels good to support a small company that still cares.

#10139 10 months ago

I got my game last night and could use some help with flipper coil settings.

Hitting the left ramp is a bit of a challenge. I can hit it on the fly, but from a cradle I don't have enough juice with factory settings.

Generally speaking, what coil settings are you all using? (Obviously the pitch of the game has a big impact on this) I'm just tying to get an idea of what most people are doing.

I'm sure this has been discussed, but I haven't read the whole thread.

#10140 10 months ago
Quoted from Rockytop:

I got my game last night and could use some help with flipper coil settings.
Hitting the left ramp is a bit of a challenge. I can hit it on the fly, but from a cradle I don't have enough juice with factory settings.
Generally speaking, what coil settings are you all using? (Obviously the pitch of the game has a big impact on this) I'm just tying to get an idea of what most people are doing.
I'm sure this has been discussed, but I haven't read the whole thread.

Lowering the flippers down to the playfield alignment holes will help more than trying to change the power in the software. It doesn't seem to do much.

With the rubbers on, put round toothpicks in the holes and rest the floppier bats against the toothpicks and retighten.

The new (lower) flipper bushings coming from Spooky will also certainly help.

#10141 10 months ago
Quoted from Lounge:

There is a setting for a ball save time on horseshoe - I set mine to 2 seconds.

I was having some problems with this, probably a majority of times the ball would run up the apron and trickle back down so slowly that the save was expired well before the ball actually made it to the outhole. It was so bad and common that I got feedback from players. It actually kinda made the mercy ball saves a bit redundant.

Other than increasing the maximum allowable setting via a code alteration, I worked out a physical mod that solved the problem...

20210121_101134 (resized).jpg

The foam wedges stop the ball rolling up the apron and taking eons to change direction to roll back down. Now they pretty much always get held up and head straight to the outhole. Trade off is that now a death save is almost impossible.

#10142 10 months ago
Quoted from Rockytop:

I got my game last night and could use some help with flipper coil settings.
Hitting the left ramp is a bit of a challenge. I can hit it on the fly, but from a cradle I don't have enough juice with factory settings.
Generally speaking, what coil settings are you all using? (Obviously the pitch of the game has a big impact on this) I'm just tying to get an idea of what most people are doing.
I'm sure this has been discussed, but I haven't read the whole thread.

Might be worth checking this (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/180#post-6015874), which effected my right flipper. I also lowered the bushings. Now my flippers are set to the default solenoid power. Left ramp much more achievable now. You should also make sure your flippers aren't binding (they need a slight gap to function at full power).

15
#10143 10 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I thought this might be the case, I suspect this is a common occurrence, it won’t likely be visible to most unless you look close and run your hand to feel the clear peeling away.
At least it’s in a location in the back and easily corrected with a cliffy. Have others seen this? To be clear, this isn’t a manufacturing defect or anything, just looking for added preventative protection to the playfield in a vulnerable spot.

Quoted from razorsedge:

I noticed it as I seen a "curl" of clear that lifted from the bevel where the bashing happens at the left side of the hole. The curl still being attached at one end, prior to it now having broken off. I noticed it through the garage floor with the game completely together, only the glass was off.
I am currently engineering myself a mantis style protector to fit inside the hole ... also considering how to stop the right orbit portal shot leaping straight across that big hole and coming back down the garage lane so often.

So I removed the subway yesterday, what I found in the subway was half dozen or so decent sized slivers of clear that seem to have flaked off from the bevel of the portal hole, from where the ball bashes hard at it.

20210121_102628 (resized).jpg

So I came up with a "mantis" style hole protector to help things.

20210121_175344 (resized).jpg

20210121_212012 (resized).jpg

20210121_213355 (resized).jpg

20210121_213911 (resized).jpg

It's just some 2-1/2" milk tube, with 1mm SS sheet fabricated so that there are four mounting holes. 2 surplus screws that used to be in ball guides along with 2 that already held the subway, keeping it firmly in place.

#10144 10 months ago

To everyone having issues with the update USB....

The issue is not with the USB stick (unless it is inoperable) it is with the way it is formatted. They need to be formatted to FAT32 and that is no easy task if you do not understand disk formatting. FAT32 was never meant for large amounts of storage and is a very old format. The easiest solution is to use a program called guiformat on a windows computer. If you have an apple it's going to be easier to find someone with a windows you can use. Although this is very simple to some of us make sure you read the instructions a few times to understand the process before attempting.

---
Feel like I need to say this... IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND THIS DO NOT TRY IT, you could end up erasing your computer or external drives. Again I am saying attempt this at your own risk.
---

1 - Find a USB drive with at least 8gb, the updates are getting bigger and you will probably need at least that down the road (You can also use a microsd card with a usb adapter, technically the same thing to a computer)

2 - Copy and paste the Download Link to your web browser >> (http://krikzz.com/pub/support/everdrive-gba/tools/guiformat-x64.Exe)<<

3 - Do not plug in the USB yet. If you did just eject it for now.

4 - Start up guiformat and write down the list of active drives you see in the drop down. C: E: etc... These are the important ones you DO NOT want to erase (When you plug in the USB a new drive will be recognized and added to the list and that will be the one you select)

5 - Close the program guiformat (It will need reopened to recognize the USB device once you plug it in)

6 - Plug in the device you want to format (Windows needs a few moments to recognize the drive) (Remember what you plugged in will be ERASED)

7 - Start up guiformat again and select the USB device (THIS IS THE DANGEROUS STEP) You should now see and know without a doubt the new drive in the drop down menu is the USB you just plugged in, If you have any doubt see step 3.

8 - Leave the block size at its default, no reason to change it. Go ahead and start the format. There will be some text zipping by that shouldnt take long, you are looking for the line the says DONE.

9 - Drive should now be formatted to FAT32, go ahead and copy the update to it and continue with the manufacturer/programmer instructions. Make sure you are using the BLUE USB port in the machine.

10 - Keep the usb in or near the machine for reuse so you never have to do this again

#10145 10 months ago
Quoted from macethetemplar:

To everyone having issues with the update USB....
The issue is not with the USB stick (unless it is inoperable) it is with the way it is formatted. They need to be formatted to FAT32 and that is no easy task if you do not understand disk formatting. FAT32 was never meant for large amounts of storage and is a very old format. The easiest solution is to use a program called guiformat on a windows computer. If you have an apple it's going to be easier to find someone with a windows you can use. Although this is very simple to some of us make sure you read the instructions a few times to understand the process before attempting.
---
Feel like I need to say this... IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND THIS DO NOT TRY IT, you could end up erasing your computer or external drives. Again I am saying attempt this at your own risk.
---
1 - Find a USB drive with at least 8gb, the updates are getting bigger and you will probably need at least that down the road (You can also use a microsd card with a usb adapter, technically the same thing to a computer)
2 - Copy and paste the Download Link to your web browser >> (http://krikzz.com/pub/support/everdrive-gba/tools/guiformat-x64.Exe)<<
3 - Do not plug in the USB yet. If you did just eject it for now.
4 - Start up guiformat and write down the list of active drives you see in the drop down. C: E: etc... These are the important ones you DO NOT want to erase (When you plug in the USB a new drive will be recognized and added to the list and that will be the one you select)
5 - Close the program guiformat (It will need reopened to recognize the USB device once you plug it in)
6 - Plug in the device you want to format (Windows needs a few moments to recognize the drive) (Remember what you plugged in will be ERASED)
7 - Start up guiformat again and select the USB device (THIS IS THE DANGEROUS STEP) You should now see and know without a doubt the new drive in the drop down menu is the USB you just plugged in, If you have any doubt see step 3.
8 - Leave the block size at its default, no reason to change it. Go ahead and start the format. There will be some text zipping by that shouldnt take long, you are looking for the line the says DONE.
9 - Drive should now be formatted to FAT32, go ahead and copy the update to it and continue with the manufacturer/programmer instructions. Make sure you are using the BLUE USB port in the machine.
10 - Keep the usb in or near the machine for reuse so you never have to do this again

While this is very helpful to those that do not understand FAT32 formatting, it needs to be said that some of the problems CAN be the USB drive as stated before. I have used several FAT32 formatted drives that my ACNC will not recognize or has problems installing from. I found a USB that works with that pin every time and that is now the one that I use for updates on that machine. I had a similar issue with WOZ.

Having the drive formatted properly is an important step, but just because it is FAT32 does not guarantee that it will work. You just have to find the USB that your pin will like. Hopefully you get lucky on your first try.

#10146 10 months ago
Quoted from macethetemplar:

To everyone having issues with the update USB....
The issue is not with the USB stick (unless it is inoperable) it is with the way it is formatted. They need to be formatted to FAT32 and that is no easy task if you do not understand disk formatting. FAT32 was never meant for large amounts of storage and is a very old format. The easiest solution is to use a program called guiformat on a windows computer. If you have an apple it's going to be easier to find someone with a windows you can use. Although this is very simple to some of us make sure you read the instructions a few times to understand the process before attempting.
---
Feel like I need to say this... IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND THIS DO NOT TRY IT, you could end up erasing your computer or external drives. Again I am saying attempt this at your own risk.
---
1 - Find a USB drive with at least 8gb, the updates are getting bigger and you will probably need at least that down the road (You can also use a microsd card with a usb adapter, technically the same thing to a computer)
2 - Copy and paste the Download Link to your web browser >> (http://krikzz.com/pub/support/everdrive-gba/tools/guiformat-x64.Exe)<<
3 - Do not plug in the USB yet. If you did just eject it for now.
4 - Start up guiformat and write down the list of active drives you see in the drop down. C: E: etc... These are the important ones you DO NOT want to erase (When you plug in the USB a new drive will be recognized and added to the list and that will be the one you select)
5 - Close the program guiformat (It will need reopened to recognize the USB device once you plug it in)
6 - Plug in the device you want to format (Windows needs a few moments to recognize the drive) (Remember what you plugged in will be ERASED)
7 - Start up guiformat again and select the USB device (THIS IS THE DANGEROUS STEP) You should now see and know without a doubt the new drive in the drop down menu is the USB you just plugged in, If you have any doubt see step 3.
8 - Leave the block size at its default, no reason to change it. Go ahead and start the format. There will be some text zipping by that shouldnt take long, you are looking for the line the says DONE.
9 - Drive should now be formatted to FAT32, go ahead and copy the update to it and continue with the manufacturer/programmer instructions. Make sure you are using the BLUE USB port in the machine.
10 - Keep the usb in or near the machine for reuse so you never have to do this again

Someone "Key Post" this! Is that just a moderator thing? if so...please. this will help others

#10147 10 months ago
Quoted from macethetemplar:

To everyone having issues with the update USB....
The issue is not with the USB stick (unless it is inoperable) it is with the way it is formatted. They need to be formatted to FAT32 and that is no easy task if you do not understand disk formatting. FAT32 was never meant for large amounts of storage and is a very old format. The easiest solution is to use a program called guiformat on a windows computer. If you have an apple it's going to be easier to find someone with a windows you can use. Although this is very simple to some of us make sure you read the instructions a few times to understand the process before attempting.
---
Feel like I need to say this... IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND THIS DO NOT TRY IT, you could end up erasing your computer or external drives. Again I am saying attempt this at your own risk.
---
1 - Find a USB drive with at least 8gb, the updates are getting bigger and you will probably need at least that down the road (You can also use a microsd card with a usb adapter, technically the same thing to a computer)
2 - Copy and paste the Download Link to your web browser >> (http://krikzz.com/pub/support/everdrive-gba/tools/guiformat-x64.Exe)<<
3 - Do not plug in the USB yet. If you did just eject it for now.
4 - Start up guiformat and write down the list of active drives you see in the drop down. C: E: etc... These are the important ones you DO NOT want to erase (When you plug in the USB a new drive will be recognized and added to the list and that will be the one you select)
5 - Close the program guiformat (It will need reopened to recognize the USB device once you plug it in)
6 - Plug in the device you want to format (Windows needs a few moments to recognize the drive) (Remember what you plugged in will be ERASED)
7 - Start up guiformat again and select the USB device (THIS IS THE DANGEROUS STEP) You should now see and know without a doubt the new drive in the drop down menu is the USB you just plugged in, If you have any doubt see step 3.
8 - Leave the block size at its default, no reason to change it. Go ahead and start the format. There will be some text zipping by that shouldnt take long, you are looking for the line the says DONE.
9 - Drive should now be formatted to FAT32, go ahead and copy the update to it and continue with the manufacturer/programmer instructions. Make sure you are using the BLUE USB port in the machine.
10 - Keep the usb in or near the machine for reuse so you never have to do this again

I used this exact method a few days ago to update my machine, it worked perfectly and I highly recommend people follow these instructions!

#10148 10 months ago

Thanks for the help. I'll check all that out and make the tweaks.

#10149 10 months ago
Quoted from macethetemplar:

To everyone having issues with the update USB....
The issue is not with the USB stick (unless it is inoperable) it is with the way it is formatted. They need to be formatted to FAT32 and that is no easy task if you do not understand disk formatting. FAT32 was never meant for large amounts of storage and is a very old format. The easiest solution is to use a program called guiformat on a windows computer. If you have an apple it's going to be easier to find someone with a windows you can use. Although this is very simple to some of us make sure you read the instructions a few times to understand the process before attempting.
---
Feel like I need to say this... IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND THIS DO NOT TRY IT, you could end up erasing your computer or external drives. Again I am saying attempt this at your own risk.
---
1 - Find a USB drive with at least 8gb, the updates are getting bigger and you will probably need at least that down the road (You can also use a microsd card with a usb adapter, technically the same thing to a computer)
2 - Copy and paste the Download Link to your web browser >> (http://krikzz.com/pub/support/everdrive-gba/tools/guiformat-x64.Exe)<<
3 - Do not plug in the USB yet. If you did just eject it for now.
4 - Start up guiformat and write down the list of active drives you see in the drop down. C: E: etc... These are the important ones you DO NOT want to erase (When you plug in the USB a new drive will be recognized and added to the list and that will be the one you select)
5 - Close the program guiformat (It will need reopened to recognize the USB device once you plug it in)
6 - Plug in the device you want to format (Windows needs a few moments to recognize the drive) (Remember what you plugged in will be ERASED)
7 - Start up guiformat again and select the USB device (THIS IS THE DANGEROUS STEP) You should now see and know without a doubt the new drive in the drop down menu is the USB you just plugged in, If you have any doubt see step 3.
8 - Leave the block size at its default, no reason to change it. Go ahead and start the format. There will be some text zipping by that shouldnt take long, you are looking for the line the says DONE.
9 - Drive should now be formatted to FAT32, go ahead and copy the update to it and continue with the manufacturer/programmer instructions. Make sure you are using the BLUE USB port in the machine.
10 - Keep the usb in or near the machine for reuse so you never have to do this again

Its actually super easy on an Apple computer as well, just need to use the program Disk Utility(it comes pre installed on Mac's) , took me only a few minutes to reformat for FAT32 and havent had an issue since.

#10150 10 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

So I removed the subway yesterday, what I found in the subway was half dozen or so decent sized slivers of clear that seem to have flaked off from the bevel of the portal hole, from where the ball bashes hard at it.
[quoted image]
So I came up with a "mantis" style hole protector to help things.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
It's just some 2-1/2" milk tube, with 1mm SS sheet fabricated so that there are four mounting holes. 2 surplus screws that used to be in ball guides along with 2 that already held the subway, keeping it firmly in place.

Very well done!. Does it affect ball entry at all? sometimes the ball can be really moving when it hits that hole, just wondering if the ball bounces off more than it did with just the wood.

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