Exactly. Generally, the heat sink creates more potential problems than it solves, and given that it's passive, I'm pretty sure that it wouldn't cool as well - which it's why it's very common in computers to have fans atop the heat sinks to dissipate the heat from them actively.

On my Spooky coil cooling kit design, the fan is suspended over the coil, draws a tiny 0.1a to run it, and is insulated from bleed back to the power supply by a rectifier diode as a protection from some unforeseen short/electrical problem at the fan/coil.

Well this is obviously fucked and I assume Spooky did not intend for the games to be shipped like this (I'm guessing we'll see some sort of response from them when it's morning there). What a bummer for you guys, hopefully the situation gets made right.

Funny - I’m sure my wife said that to me once.

rd

Also they should have marine insurance on the shipment which covers damage like this, we have a blanket policy covers all our imports from manufacturer to final customer

ask bruce musson Freight handled the shipment

I'm sure nobody would mind paying an extra bunch of dollars to have them shipped upright. One shot thing isn't it?. I couldn't believe how cheap the shipping cost was this time. I can obviously understand why now though. I guess restrictions wouldn't have helped oversight either...

Would Tip n Tell have possibly prevented this?

How could anyone seriously pack our games like that?

Wow! I'm not sure any pinball box is strong enough for that ( pinpod? )
The first batch of Dialed In's came to the UK with at least one machine on top like that and it was clearly dropped getting it in or out, the machine was found to be destroyed when it arrived at the unlucky owners house.

That’s horrible...

If you look closely in the picture, you can see the guy standing in the background that loaded that thing....

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I’d love to see a video of them removing those R&M games from the container. No way at least one isn’t dropped.

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Based on the pictures provided the resultant damage was 100% due to the way it was packed.

No dunnage interlayer combined with large pockets of space within the container not allowing for shifting of cargo whilst in transit.

This is kinda depressing. Wait over a week to find out how cronenberged my Rick is ...

There is no way there is going to be any more than 1 or 2 undamaged games from in there.

On my way to spooky Pinball to pick up Rick and Morty number 313!

Rick and Morty T-shirt...check!
Krispy Kreme doughnuts and coffee for the minions… Check!

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Fuck yeah!!

exciting times! Nothing like driving to pick up a brand new pinball machine.

Decided to play one quick game this morning before work. First adventure starts and it's Roy. I made it to 4 Rick shots before accidently hitting a non-rick shot to end the mode. So damn close to taking Roy off the grid!

How do you determine Rick shots?

They need to fire whoever loaded those.

I’ve got to FOUR and drained. So close!

Whoever loaded it was just a couple of grunts doing what they were told. It was some brain dead supervisor trying to maximize space that made that call.

By either just shooting every unlit shot, or by hitting the meeseeks target. If you hit the meeseeks target, it will light the Rick shot blue.

Just picked up Rick and Morty!

Thanks Spooky!

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Congratulations!

Any idea what #'s were on the line?

Ha! Yours and mine would get along well...!

Well I couldn’t go inside because of Covid. Total bummer.

But I did ask Morgan and she said what’s on the line are in the 330s.

I thought they would be further along than that.

I see that they are still putting the leg protectors over the decals. personally, I would take the time and cut the decal portion that sits underneath so that you don't go through the headaches (and heartbreaks) that many of us have experienced with the decals stretching and tearing.

Just played for about 30 minutes and then turned off the pin and tested how hot the coils felt. I could touch either one for about 10 seconds before it became uncomfortable. So yes, they get hot.

The damage on my decals from the legs is pretty bad... I should've listened to posts here but just thought a select few were blowing it out of proportion (also pretty sure luke chimed in and stated this issue was resolved).

I ended up printing spacers (elegoo mars pro 2 MSLA with abs-like resin) to go over the metal cabinet protectors, it works pretty well so far - should've put these on first, now the damage is done.

So for anyone reading this with access to a 3D printer, print these and put them on before putting the legs on:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1220901

No need to screw these down as they rest right on top of the existing metal protector.

I contacted luke about the legs as 2 of mine had the issue (#246) and they sent me out another set of protectors and said to use those as an extra layer till they are able to get some thicker ones sent to them. They are making note of people with issues and I sent pictures. My decal had not ripped yet just starting to bubble around the edges so I took the legs off and used a hair dryer and my thumb to smooth em out before slotting in the other spacer over the original one. Working great so far and they sent the extra protectors very fast.

Wow this pin is brutal on the tips of the flippers! These are Titans I put on from day one (about a month ago). I've switched back to the black bands from Spooky for now. I guess it makes sense given that the garage, left ramp, and right orbit all require shots at the very end of the flipper.

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Is there a flipper code on this to turn the profanity settings on or off? I understand it's in the menu and can be set on a timer. Just curious and looking forward to getting my R&M order sheet soon! 373 in the house!

There is a quick change option on the front page of the service menu. Hold the launch button to toggle profanity on/off. No need to dig down into the settings.

Titans have a really short lifespan in my experience. I won't buy them anymore, I got tired of rotating and replacing them all the time. Superbands are the way to go for me, hands down.

I don't get why spooky still has to use those really crappy post rubbers they are weak as piss. Super light weight.

I tried Superbands in this pin and really didn’t like them. Superbands put so much spin on the balls that it really affects the vectors of the shots.

My EatPM eats flipper rubbers.

I find it best to rotate and/or flip them when wiping down the machine, rather than wait for one spot to get too thoroughly trashed.

I notice bugger all difference really, but I definately prefer the way superbands play anyway, so it's superbands all ways to me. Maybe it's partly just what people are used to, IDK.

All I know is the silicone is junk, and nowhere near durable enough for me to bother putting on any of my pinballs ever again, it gets all trashed up and pinched to pieces in notime man. Tried it out too many times already in the past few years. Silicone for pinball rubbers just sucks nads I say.

Only place I still have them is on protected spike posts, for nudge bounce effect which isn't as prominent with the superbands.

I'd say I prefer super bands not because of the way they play, but because they are durable and consistent. Best value. Prefering the way they play is likely just a result of Superbands being what I mostly play pinball with. Love it!

I put traditional green rubbers on mine day one , you know, real rubber (kinda matches the color scheme), and they have been on for months now. They seem to work great.

I just received my R&M #284 in Montreal, Canada! Thanks Spooky. Seems okay so far, some small issues, that others have mentioned.

1) Fan is waaaaay too loud. I actually set the game up in my office, so I can hear that sh*t all day. That said, I've already purchased the "quiet fan" so hopefully once I make the switch, that resolves that. And unlike the Stern loud fans, this one doesn't take any breaks....

2) Any way to stop the TOPPER from going on every few mins, even when not playing? (i.e. in attract mode)

3) The only real "game issue" I've noticed so far is the "rattling metal sounds" I'm hearing during the game. It feeeels like it's coming from inside the speaker actually, not the glass per se-- although the glass is also rattling a little. Anyone have any ideas on how to help me with that? I've already lowered the overall music volume (and bass) but can still hear the "metal sounds" when the game is playing hard.

4) Oh and the LCD screen is not as black as I was expecting. Any way to fix that, increasing the blackness tint or something?

Thanks in advance!

1) Once you install the kit the game is almost silent, its a dramatic change
2) that is in the settings, you can turn off the topper, change intergalactic cable frequency, change the sounds of that if you want it on attract mode etc.
3) Go to the amp on the right side of the cabinet, its a little black box. It has knobs pointing towards the side of the cabinet, the one closest to you is the knob you are looking for. Turn that all the way down (towards the front of the game) then turn it a tad up. Keep upping it a tiny bit till you hear the rattle again, then back off. Adding anti rattle tape and some of the other suggestions can make it so you can turn it up even more
4) behind the lcd screen is buttons for the menu. Turn down the brightness a ton (thats why it looks washed out) and up the contrast. After i messed with the screen settings it is a TON more vibrant and you can see the blacks and contrast much better.

Yeah I would choose genuine rubber bands before silicone, especially for flippers and post sleeves. I prefer rubber than urethane, but with games on location using urethane means I never have had to replace them, just cleaning. Superbands have been by far most cost effective in my situation.

I was making some of the recommended tweaks to the game today, and hit my thumb when I was putting the glass back on, thought nothing of it until I looked down after a little bit of testing and realized I had a true blood suckers Edition

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Now that is a legit BSE!

281 has landed!

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Ok... got my RM in the house, down into the basement and “mostly” setup in the pinball room.

Although I got it down my nightmare stairs... it was not without putting a big’ol scratch on my new drywall. So any future pins going up or down I’m going to have to remove the head from now on. Damn it.

I didn’t level it at all because I was too excited just to get it setup so I could play it. Its close because I had a good idea where the legs needed to be because but definitely needs some adjustment.

1st off.... it’s so damn pretty to look at! Hands down the nicest looking pin in my lineup!

Next, it all works ok, as far as I can tell. Even the damn coin lock works!
So no issues. Yay!!!!

I’ve played it about a dozen times. Fuc#in love it!!!! Shots are all working pretty good except for the garage shot from the right upper flipper... I was not able to hit that, not even once yet. I got it plenty from the left flipper and the steep ramp works very good, so far. And, I’m pretty sure I have it set up with too much of an incline. So after I post this and “sometime” tonight I will make all the necessary adjustments to make it play better... maybe. But NO complaints here on “out of the box” operation. Awesome job Spooky!

Lastly, my minor complaints...

The topper is very loud!
The rattle is ridiculous!
And the gameplay is addictive!

Here are some pics from all this crap I’m posting about;

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Oh jeez. Those stairs are worse than the ones I have that go to the upstairs, where the designers of the house put the "game room", that have a 180 degree turn. But they're sort of wide, though not wide enough where it turns for a pin really. Used to have games up there when first getting into the Hobby. But the nightmare of bringing them down when they were sold was just too much. It was easier getting them up than down from what I remember.

All games are now downstairs (the room downstairs was always full of games just no "extras" upstairs anymore).

Nice lineup! What do you think of GNR?

Thanks!

It’s awesome too.

Lovin it!

I personally unloaded those games with 4 of my staff and a forklift. Not one game was dropped. There’s a number of reasons why the games are damaged, that’s not one of them.

Any news on the other Aussie R&Ms condition?

Is that an LE GnR? Where is the LE plate? Interesting never seen an LE without it