took delivery of my R&M today (one of the batch that came to Australia). However, i cant get it to boot. Lights turn on and stay white. However the cpu motherboard doesn't light up and the fan in the ATX powersupply doesn't spin. I tried powering the ATX PSU from the wall and that didn't help. Leads me to believe the motherboard is not telling PSU to turn on. It could be DOA but is there anything else i can try to get it going?
(can't find any lose connections - or fixed any i found).
Thanks!

(realised this should be in a tech support forum - have reposted - sorry - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rick-and-morty-boot-issue-out-of-the-box#post-5960550 )

Did you check that both power supplies were set to 220 and not 115v, apparently some of them were left at 115v at the factory.
image (resized).jpg

yeah all on 230v (one was wrong but i changed it, have triple checked)

Did you switch it on before you changed it? If so, something may have blown.

nope. Both on 230v before the power cable even got connected

Any update on code? Additional adventures/wizard mode or even mini wizard after reaching x amt of adventures?

Who sells the fan upgrade again? link if you have it...

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/03720-600w-spooky-multimorphic-plug-n-play-quiet-fan-kit

MUST HAVE !

I don't even notice my stock fan noise.

My original plastic cracked also yesterday night.
Good thing, i have 2 replacement plastics from pinballlife in stock.
But for that issue, we need def a better solution.

20201112_233219 (resized).jpg

You can’t hear the fan over the topper!

just kidding, well not really.

I guess the fan doesn’t bother me...

My sense from waiting for my game (also from the Halloween video they made), which I paid in full for Oct. 17th and hasn't left the factory yet, is that Spooky had a large number of mostly complete games sitting on the line. Hopefully the delay in shipping these is to get corrected legs for them.

Is it easy to replace? Do you have to remove the house and larger plastic below to replace?

...looks like the larger plastic i have to.
I'll change now and will report it soon.

Just got an email from Spooky last night - planning for #388.

Please let us know. The house looks difficult to remove.

It's Happening!

I have heard the breaking happens because the pushrod is too long. Spooky has a replacement shorter rod. Or you can trim your original rod.

It's not. Just 2 screws IIRC, one on either side of the house. The left ramp has to come off, which is also really easy.

Forgot to mention that Jerry Edition #231 arrived last Thursday (11/5), and honestly, I've been too busy playing to post. I guess that's really how it should be.

The 'Awww Geez':

- Pin suffered damage somehow in transit, like a lift ran through the corner of the box. The damage suffered was a portion of scratched off decal and underlying wood chunk damage to the left panel of the 'Morty' side of the backbox.

- On the topper, the portal plastic piece's flat screw tip would not clamp down to the flat portion of the rod that spins on the topper motor. It was like turning a stripped screw. I was able to make it work by having the screw down just enough to cause added friction to make it feel like a snug, tight fit. The portal hasn't fallen back off yet....fingers crossed.

- The game wouldn't fully boot out of the box. Received the "Hardware connection failed. Ensure boards have power and USB cable is secure." I spent a good almost hour trying to correct this. Checking cable connections, switching the SATA hard drive cable, inserting the SATA cable into different SATA slots on the motherboard. While doing those SATA cable swaps, I noticed that the middle board in the backbox didn't seem to light up like the boards to its left. Lightbulb moment, it must not be getting power. Searching the backbox for a loose connector, searching under the playfield, removing the black plastic conduit from the wire strand feeding the rest of the specific board (and having to stuff the cable strands back into it, ugh).....NOTHING. "Let me check this OTHER black plastic conduit feeding the OTHER boards." Boom bitches, loose power cable finally located, we're finally in business!

The "Let's Lick Tits":

- What can I say about my customer experience, other than that Joe at Pinballstar, and the team at Spooky, will make things right. They all know and realize we spend a shit ton of money on the machines, and they work to help make the purchase as satisfying as possible. Prior to delivery, I received an email from Joe saying to make sure to inspect the delivery closely, that there have been a small number of reports of various types of damage suffered during the shipping process. I did just that, even having a live text conversation after discovering the damage to JE 231, making the delivery guy post down in my driveway for a decent amount of time until we figured out a plan. Joe sprung into action, and working with Spooky, they/we agreed on an acceptable solution. Sure it would of been my preference for JE 231 to have arrived in pristine perfection, but shit happens. Even though I was super bummed with the initial situation, I didn't come at Joe in a dickish way, and through communications, we worked it out. I've learned a long time ago that passing the personality test can get you a lot further than ***burp*** being an asshole about it.

- So far, no cabinet decal damage. Could be overkill, but from the get go with installing my legs, I layered felt pads under light blue plastic Pinball Life leg protectors under the actual legs. The light blue protectors actually add a nice accent to the blues of the cabinet decals. I can see a decent amount of clearance between the legs and the decal to keep the dogs at bay. I've had my share of plumbus warnings, but I'm not one to really wrestle my machine into submission.

- After reading the complaints about the glass rattle, I figured I'd take care of it before it was really a thing. While initially setting up the machine, I adjusted the sub volume on the amp as recommended, and after the first night of playing (Who really wants to work on a pin instead of flipping it on the first night? Am I right?), I added 'Tesa Black Fuzzy Fleece Tape' to the edges of the glass. The glass rattle is pretty non-existent from what I'm hearing, with clean bass and sound.

- Spooky recommends 6.5 degrees, Scott previously mentioned 6.9 degrees. I set mine to 6.7 degrees, and it plays to my liking.

- This game can be fast and extremely fun. This game can be fast and layeth the smacketh down. All I know is I keep hitting Start, and the only time I can ever get any alone time with this pin is when my two sons are asleep. In just a week of playing, I'm the Mortiest Morty on my machine with over 10million, and have 6 combos made.

If you're still waiting for your R&M, and are on the fence on whether you should bail while you can, DON'T DO IT! Me and my kids are all pre-pin Rick and Morty fans from Season 01, and this game is so worth the wait. We've all heard that more is coming in the way of code, and I'm juiced for that, but even in state that the pin is in today, I can't see this pin exiting my Gold Mine 2.DRU garagecade.

This was my plan, but the general consensus seemed to be that there wouldn't be enough buyers to make it worth the upfront costs.

...unnessessary complicated

For that easy breaking plastic, you have to remove both ramps, the house and of course the large plastic.

My wish for the next update: please insert the option to deactivate the ship coil.
I don't need the rattle, if i have to work later to remove all elements to change the plastic again,
long as we don't have a durable solution.

@Spooky: I'm ok with it, because nothing can lower my love to this awesome game!

You must not be doing it right!?

You just aren't focusing hard enough on it yet still, that's all!!

With some extra practice you'll be able to pay more attention to it in the background, so that it can bother you the entire time you're playing the game!!

Don't feel left out though if you still aren't bothered, it isn't for everyone hey.

I think that's a good idea. I was wondering if there was an option to do that already actually, I just haven't checked yet.

You can't do that with code, it is the horseshoe up post, and is part of the rule set/playfield programming..

If you want to disable it you'd need to do it mechanically/physically by preventing some component from striking the ship, but letting the up post still operate.

Still needs to be pinpointed as to just why the vast majority of games are not breaking their ship pivot plates.

Not using PeT-G is the main part of the solution since its characteristics do not fit with the application which is repeated fatigue from flexing. PeT-G is just too prone to cracking, even if it is slightly better than acrylic.

As I've said, if (when) it happens to me I will simply be making a new one just the same but from appropriate polymer. Done sorted. Over.

Metals will introduce their own myriad of problems depending on what metal, no really Suitable metal options that are not more costly than what is actually needed, and aesthetically less pleasing to boot. A 2 buck piece of lexan should not be such a perplexing hurdle for anyone, it's readily available. Way simpler as well than delving into fraught metal alternatives, which most will still crack just the same anyway... unless you like rust, or flaky paint, or oils inside your machine??.

Did they pause shipping for the new legs?

Ah thanks for the info...I have never looked at it closely enough, didnt realize it worked liked that.

It takes time to work out the issue with the leg manufacturer, get replacements, and powder coat them. Spooky knows it's an issue, so I'm sure they are working hard on a solution to get everyone taken care of. Everyone affected by this will just have to be patient (me included).

I totally understand it takes a bit to get new shipments and do the powder coating process. I was watching shipped and delivered numbers to try and gauge the impact. That was the first time someone said they believed the shipping was paused for it (which makes sense).
They are a great company and have amazing customer service from what I see.

I too ended up with a scrape at the bottom of the stairs, haha. Darn angled staircases!

Appears not. This is my biggest concern with the game's longevity for me, very light on modes. But love the new match sequences.

you guys are way overthinking this leg thing. Just play it on the floor!

I'm sorry but that is a bad design. Not sure why they don't just make it an actual hinge, while not perfect, it would be way less likely to break from normal use.

Monday 16th scheduled to be dropped #319 will be setup soon!

I don't know how far away.....can't answer that.
But in Charlies interview on super awesome pinball show a few weeks ago, he talked about new modes already done, waiting on approval. He said he had done some voice acting of a very "spooky" character in a upcoming mode (I really hope it's scary Terry bitch!!). There has also been talk ages ago from Eric of a "Rick potion no.9" wizard mode.
I'm no insider, just what I heard on a podcast

I just picked up my machine on Wednesday and scary Terry is on it already.

Strange. There's no code updated posted that would enable that. Either they're putting a newer build on new machines than what we can download currently or someone accidently put the wrong code on your game.

Scary Terry is in the game, if you touch buttons with no game started it says stuff like....'hands off my buttons....bitch" in a Scary Terry style voice

This isn't what people are talking about. They're talking about a scary terry adventure.

Oh, I just have Scary Terry on the buttons.

Sorry.

I decided to trim my rod a little bit, so the ship-plastic cannot expand so much anymore.

That's how they all are in the Imamaculate dimension

Maybe the ship coil needs tweaked to be less powerful? I've got a lot of games on mine and have not had any problems yet, but I did buy a backup plastic just in case.

I'll take out of context quotes for $500 please.

...just eat more cheese.

Just unboxed my game, was pretty nervous with all the other issues with Aussie machines, but all is perfect! Now just need some time to play it!

Struth!

Anyone have issues with the left flipper not working, the first time it happened I just cycled power and it came back. Tried that again and no luck went into coil test and wouldn't fire. Flipper switch is fine. Tried spooky but its after hours. If anyone has ideas were to start I'd love to hear them. Need to run errands and will dig into it when I get home. Hoping for something simple.

The power connector is sloppy on the board in the head. There were other coils not working, but didn't notice till I got into the test menu.

Has anyone noticed the screws at the entrance of the ramps getting loose/not grabbing? It looks like the screws used may be too short.