That's why I kept replying to you. For R&M, I don't believe the larger screws would poke through the PF, but they might create some unsightly humps. If this weren't an issue, Spooky wouldn't have gone to the trouble of using different sized screws. When I first got the machine, I thought it was simply a mistake, but Luke/Scott lmk it was very intentional.

I hope the next game goes back to standard PF width...flipper brackets should really have the full length screws all around!

Ditto me exactly.

My flipper power felt okay before but yeah, with the spacers installed it's a whole new game. I've now got all 3 flippers set to "24" power and it shoots amazing. I also noticed that my ability to "micro-flip" and use other high-fidelity flipper techniques has improved. Overall, I'd say the feel of the flippers is more natural now and closer to what I'm used to.

I tried to be lazy and fit the protector via the small access under the left ramp, almost worked too, but couldn't get the right edge to lay flat enough so I pulled it back out for now.

Are you saying that installing some like the X-Spacers, with the same size screws all around (I believe that is what Aniraf provides) would be unadvised?

Also, toyotaboy do you think your flipper spacers would work on the switches? I don't know offhand if the distance between screws is the same.

It seriously takes less time than it will take you to remove / replace the lockbar and glass. Goes in quick.

Just upon visual inspection, how so? Looks like I would have to remove the subway in order to install from the bottom and screw in the 2 support screws that there are no holes for, then install the other 2 screws in the 2 holes that currently hold the subway on. Am I mistaken?

You have to pull a couple screws and then replace them. Subway doesn't really have to be removed at all really, just shifted a bit, unless you want to clean it I guess?

*double post*

I haven't looked at the X-Spacers, so I can't comment. Sorry.

This is the method I went with since shifting the subway was not very feasible on my game due to some tight wiring around it. In any case, it was pretty darn simple and may have taken about 10 minutes.

One issue I've noticed with the mantis hole protector is with a slow rolling ball, it will get hung up on the lip and requires some shaking to remove it...anyone else have this issue...wish I had marked it and ground it down prior...but doesn't happen too often

Agreed with the others, I removed my subway and cleaned it, put everything back with the mantis protector. 10 mins tops. No hang ups for me, works perfect every time.

no clue, I would have to see how much they'd need lowering. I could quickly create a bunch of STL files of spacers in various heights, but someone else needs to test them (I don't want to tinker more than I need to). I could print each 1mm increment in a different color.

I installed all 3 X-spacers with the screws that were provided and no issues whatsoever. I tightened the screws down tight too and nothing felt by fingertip on the playfield side of things. So if there is a "micro-bump", it is not one that can be seen or even felt. I wouldn't worry about it.

What thickness is your flipper spacer?

That sounds like a personal question !

I'm in the 100M+ club

My best first ball, best GC, and look at that nasty score on the final ball!

Almost half of my inner loop shots didn't register, so I can only imagine what the score could've been.

When I install the X-Spacers, I'm going to also lower the switches.

toyotaboy let me know if you want me to test out some spacers on the switches.

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You totally can do that. I decided I would just do 5/8th all the way around because I am never changing it back. I don’t see any particular logic for the mixed sizes.

Haha. I can take a look when I get home.

This is such an excellent call out that I didn’t even realize. R&M is the only game I’ve ever played where the ball can pinch between the rollover switch and wire guide in my inlane. I didn’t think about the playfield width at all. The magnetic switches are amazing, but I bet we just needed to drop the standard switches the whole time!

I measured the thickness of the playfield and I am 99% confident nobody is going to get a “micro hump” on plywood. If this were hardwood or something not engineered, I would not have advised 24 of the same screw.

I hand installed mine until the were tight. You don’t have to go wild on the torque when you have all 8 properly cutting into the wood. On my friends machine (second test machine I used) some of this 1/2 inch screws were hanging on by a few threads.

I used your screws on mine everywhere and had no issues at all. The PF wood seems to disintegrate rather easily out of the screw holes via removing the original screws so having larger replacements is a good idea.

I had to make this update to my prototype. I did post the update, and let mantis know about the issue I had, since it came after I had made up the drawing.

I took the house off, marked a line with a black texta on the ring where the playfield gutter meets it. Then removed, trimmed, and reinstalled.

I also used a block of sticky back high density foam, stuck it to the ceiling of the "garage cellar". This stopped the portal "skipovers" (right orbit then comes out of left garage lane), and also stopped Garage shot rejects, where the ball would bounce off the back and come back down the left garage lane.

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/208#post-6106421
*at the bottom of that post is also a link to the notch update post for the prototype drawing (the prototype drawing I created does not have a notch).

next project....

The sub enclosure is sorted out, assemble and install that I suppose ...

Honest question.

Did Erik quit?

Wouldn’t blame him if he did.

He quit posting on here because of the jackaninnies. But I’m sure he’s still crushing R&M code

Yeah three or four loudmouths ganged up on him and finally managed to piss him off. Sadly a typical forum occurrence.

Let's *hope* he is still working on R&M but...

he posted on the *next spooky pin*
thread today

Like a pinball noob I got my topper yanked while moving my machine and the C4/C5 2 pin connector popped out the p3-roc board in the back box and now I have an empty pass through connector and a red and black wire dangling.

Can someone please eyeball this connection and tell me what color wire goes on C4 and C5 so I can fix it back up?

This what you are looking for?

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The P3-ROC is the one smack dab in the middle. And it’s actually the J2 as per the below image. That c4 c5 are right above the 2 pin.

https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/p3-roc/

Edit: thank you for the help.

Let's try this again

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You sir are my hero. Thank u for being super fast.

Those of you planning to lower any of your rollover switches, plan on rebending the trigger wire. Those switches as supplied need to be depressed something like 2/3 of the way before they register, so if you simply lower them, they may no longer register at all!

Meanwhile, if you bend the wire like I have posted about before, you can get close to 100% reliable, no lowering necessary.

What bullshit revisionist history is this? You might want to go back and read the thread before running your mouth.

Additionally, you are welcome for the fixed code for the 'non issue' that us morons were reporting. Read the patch notes of before and after for what was done.

He posted today, just not in this thread.

He's been in this thread since then. He's voted posts. He just hasn't posted. He worked hard to get where we are. He most likely needs a break after 2+ years working on the same project. Then again, he could be hard at work on S5 modes. Who knows.

For all of you that have received your machines; about how long was your wait from initial order?

Hopefully only a small break epthegeek Your hard work is massively appreciated in my household. My 7 year old plays R&M all day every day haha. Sings the songs, quotes the call outs, explains the rules, I think he's obsessed

Flippers are perfect also btw!

Frankly I can't even remember if you were one of the bitchers that made this place feel like death for a few days and ran him off.

Not sure what issue you're referring to but a lot of us report stuff to him IN PM's... not pummel him in public.

Sorry you feel so guilty though. I never even mentioned your name or thought about you.

Just ran into an issue today with #435

Noticed that whenever I start a game and shoot the ball around a bit, the game mysteriously thinks that I qualified and locked a ball. Then (while the initial ball is still in play around the pf), the game kicks out another ball into live play. When 1 of the 2 drain, the game kicks into the bonus screen and kills the other ball in play.

Also, without having any of the balls physically locked in the ship locks, the scoop eventually lights to start multiball.

Seems like the game is losing track of the balls and might have an opto sensor / switch issue somewhere. Not sure if this could be a code bug as well? Any idea where I should begin looking first to resolve this matter?

Thank you!

Well it is clear you don't even know what occurred, so we'll just leave it at that. Water under the bridge.

Not a bug as no one else is experiencing that regularly. It does sound like a switch issue on your machine with the horseshoe and ramp optos triggering when they shouldn't. Obligatory "check all connections" advice, also go into switch test mode, hit the playfield firmly a few times to cause vibration and see if anything triggers.

I did the same thing.

A fast shot to the right orbit would bounce out of the garage. Foam on the opposite edge of the garage eliminates that problem.

The reed switches are brilliant - never ever fail.

Why are you guys using the x spacers instead of new bushings or cutting the busing down?

Just because it’s easier to install?

Happens to me all the time, no. I am thinking it is a trough switch issue.

I don't think so. I don't know this for a fact, but I was under the impression that the long pole in the tent on Rick and Morty code was licensor approval. I am under the impression they have a few more goodies ready for us, but are awaiting licensor approval. Licensors that were probably not expecting to have to approve new assets for years down the road.

Erik Rocks!

Well they did JUST start shipping the new bushings. I went ahead and ordered X's anyway to put in. I don't like messing with flippers any more than necessary. Since these have gotten good reviews, I'll put these on for now. Later if I need to do something that requires removing the the flippers, I'll switch to the new bushings.

Erik and Bowen are the best parts of this game. The layout is fun to shoot, but we could go back and forth all day about things we'd fix or prefer.

The code itself, and the implementation of the theme is superb. Even with a plethora of issues I've dealt with on my game, often rendering it barely playable, I still couldn't resist playing it just to get into the modes and laugh.

This game has personality and character, which I haven't seen much of since the 90s B/W era.

We're all hoping epthegeek knows how much we enjoy and appreciate his work, so we can hopefully get some more goodies added to an already awesome code.

Well said.