(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You can run, but you can't hide, bitch.


By TheNoTrashCougar

1 year ago



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#7501 72 days ago

#373 checking in. Just got the email from Spooky asking what accessories I want in my build. ITS HAPPENING!

#7502 72 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

Is that an LE GnR? Where is the LE plate? Interesting never seen an LE without it

Pretty sure the LE plate comes in an envelope with your game. He probably hasn't stuck it to his game yet

#7503 72 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

Is that an LE GnR? Where is the LE plate? Interesting never seen an LE without it

I have the plate.

Just been busy
Thanks for reminding me though.

You jinxed it!

I tried putting the numbered plate on and found that they installed screws into the wrong spot!
sent JJP an email about it. Dang it! Another GNR issue...

#7504 72 days ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

I have the plate.
Just been busy
Thanks for reminding me though.
You jinxed it!
I tried putting the numbered plate on and found that they installed screws into the wrong spot!
sent JJP an email about it. Dang it! Another GNR issue...

So they supply the plate and screws in a sep envelope and owner screws it in? Never bought a new JJP before. Thought they come like that.

#7505 72 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

So they supply the plate and screws in a sep envelope and owner screws it in? Never bought a new JJP before. Thought they come like that.

yes, but I'm not sure why?

Maybe it has something to do with their numbering system?

#7506 72 days ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Ok... got my RM in the house, down into the basement and “mostly” setup in the pinball room.
Although I got it down my nightmare stairs... it was not without putting a big’ol scratch on my new drywall. So any future pins going up or down I’m going to have to remove the head from now on. Damn it.
I didn’t level it at all because I was too excited just to get it setup so I could play it. Its close because I had a good idea where the legs needed to be because but definitely needs some adjustment.
1st off.... it’s so damn pretty to look at! Hands down the nicest looking pin in my lineup!
Next, it all works ok, as far as I can tell. Even the damn coin lock works!
So no issues. Yay!!!!
I’ve played it about a dozen times. Fuc#in love it!!!! Shots are all working pretty good except for the garage shot from the right upper flipper... I was not able to hit that, not even once yet. I got it plenty from the left flipper and the steep ramp works very good, so far. And, I’m pretty sure I have it set up with too much of an incline. So after I post this and “sometime” tonight I will make all the necessary adjustments to make it play better... maybe. But NO complaints here on “out of the box” operation. Awesome job Spooky!
Lastly, my minor complaints...
The topper is very loud!
The rattle is ridiculous!
And the gameplay is addictive!
Here are some pics from all this crap I’m posting about;
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

*** This is an update to my earlier post;

I played another 25 (or so) more games tonight games but I still have not leveled it or checked the pitch.

*Garage shot from upper right flipper;
The pinball master of the house (my wife) came down and showed me that the garage shot works fine. She made it more than a few times in a just 2/3 games. After that I played again a few times and did the same... so it works just fine with no adjustments. Even my 12 year old son was making the shot too.

*The steep ramp shot worked fine most every time that me, my wife or my 12 year old son hit it. There were a few that didn't make it up but that was because the shots were not clean.

*The loud rattle sound from the bass;
I removed the amplifier (I think thats what it is) because you can't see the controls the way they install them. I adjusted the subwoofer level almost all the way down and I made some minor adjustments to the other controls (bass, treble frequency and sound level) just to make the sound the way I like. Theres no more rattle from the bass in the audio now and the music and game sound is still nice and bass'y (for lack of a better word). The shaker motor does still make the machine rattle a bit but nothing crazy. My GNR does the same when the shaker kicks in. But its tolerable and not annoying like the rattle was from the sub woofer.

*The loud topper; it's still loud and annoying and I'm not sure what I can do for that. I did turn the topper function off while the machine is idle because it was coming on for attraction mode and that was really very annoying.I'm almost tempted to turn the motor off and I would be happy with just the lights maybe. if anyone has a suggestion, LMK please.

Leg issues;
I have one leg only (I think/hope) that I could tell, was too close and pushing into the cabinet and decal. So I removed the 2 front legs and installed some old ones and emailed Spooky a picture of the minor damage from the leg. The rear ones look or seem to look ok but I did not remove them. Maybe tomorrow.

***I had the game on for a good 8 hours and I never had any freeze ups or lock ups either so that’s good. Not sure what code I’m on yet because I haven’t checked.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with the gameplay out of the box. Considering, I made no adjustments at all. I did check for loose connections and other stuff before I started it up but everything checked out good. No problems what so ever. So I think Spooky is doing a great job tweaking and improving as they continue to build these machines and work through issues that come up. That or I'm just F'n lucky!

Again GREAT job Spooky Team!!!

Scott Danesi... this game is a blast and its amazing!
Eric and Bowen... the code and all the stuff in this game is also amazing!

#7507 72 days ago

I really don’t mean to be a Negative Nancy, but aside from the cabinet damage during transit (which I’m sure Spooky will make right), I’m also having issues with phantom ball locks and reboots. Here’s a video (shot over 3 consecutive games) that captures the weirdness.

I’ve checked and reseated all of the optos. The switch test shows the correct switches firing as the ball activates them. The dropdown target tests pass with no errors.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Oh and I'm on the latest code - 2020.10.12.

#7508 72 days ago
Quoted from melumga:

I really don’t mean to be a Negative Nancy, but aside from the cabinet damage during transit (which I’m sure Spooky will make right), I’m also having issues with phantom ball locks and reboots. Here’s a video (shot over 3 consecutive games) that captures the weirdness.
I’ve checked and reseated all of the optos. The switch test shows the correct switches firing as the ball activates them. The dropdown target tests pass with no errors.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Mr Meeseeks was def right ... "It's gettin' wierd!" Lol

Send log data to Eric perhaps hey?

There could be some mixed up switch connectors, or something, too?

Also, is the ball save countdown timer intended to come to a halt part way through its countdown, for seconds at a time? . It resumes from the time it stopped at, unlike some display freeze/recovery.

#7509 72 days ago

Finally got up and running, had a few issues that I got figured out. Need to adjust the upper flipper feed, other than that my son and I were having a blast. Well done to everyone involved in this. Going to check for updated code sometime later today. Had a couple of shutdowns, not a big deal. Playing for fun, cranked the balls up to nine to get some practice and work on shots. I definitely need more practice, it was hard to call it a night.

#7510 72 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Mr Meeseeks was def right ... "It's gettin' wierd!" Lol
Send log data to Eric perhaps hey?
There could be some mixed up switch connectors, or something, too?
Also, is the ball save countdown timer intended to come to a halt part way through its countdown, for seconds at a time?

Yeah, I was also thinking that some wiring got mixed up. All the labels on the wires into the 2 opto boards (which have stickers naming them "Rick opto board" and "Morty opto board" ) match their port numbers. And the switch test shows the correct switches activating in the horseshoe and around the PF.

Not really sure how to get the log data. Something about sticking a USB key in, downloading the log onto the key then emailing to Eric ? I'll figure it out.

Never noticed the ball save countdown pause like that. I know that the cable for the countdown display keeps coming loose, which manifests as missing digits (pixels?) in the numbers, but that's a different issue.

#7511 72 days ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

4) Oh and the LCD screen is not as black as I was expecting. Any way to fix that, increasing the blackness tint or something?
Thanks in advance!

Start here: 85 Contrast, 25 Brightness, and Gamma On. This will be a huge improvement.

#7512 72 days ago
Quoted from melumga:

I know that the cable for the countdown display keeps coming loose, which manifests as missing digits (pixels?) in the numbers, but that's a different issue.

There are two cables for each timer display below the playfield. Check to make sure old hot glue isn’t still on there, preventing a good connection. Remove the hot glue and reattach. Add a dab of new hot glue if needed if they fall out. I think the use too much hot glue sometimes and it seeps under the connector and pushes it up a bit.

#7513 72 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

There are two cables for each timer display below the playfield. Check to make sure old hot glue isn’t still on there, preventing a good connection. Remove the hot glue and reattach. Add a dab of new hot glue if needed if they fall out. I think the use too much hot glue sometimes and it seeps under the connector and pushes it up a bit.

Thanks. Yes there is a lot of hot glue there, although I can't tell if it's the glue that's preventing a good connection since I've used electrical tape to cover it and hold it in place for now. Seems to be doing the trick.

#7514 72 days ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

*The loud topper; it's still loud and annoying and I'm not sure what I can do for that. I did turn the topper function off while the machine is idle because it was coming on for attraction mode and that was really very annoying.I'm almost tempted to turn the motor off and I would be happy with just the lights maybe. if anyone has a suggestion, LMK please.

Well the problem is the motor is noisy and totally exposed. I would imagine you could come up with some kind of a cover for it that would dampen the sound a lot, but not completely. Maybe craft a small box our of styrofoam or something that is open on a couple sides to slide over it?

I haven't got my game yet but sounds like a fun project to look at.

#7515 72 days ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Well the problem is the motor is noisy and totally exposed. I would imagine you could come up with some kind of a cover for it that would dampen the sound a lot, but not completely. Maybe craft a small box our of styrofoam or something that is open on a couple sides to slide over it?
I haven't got my game yet but sounds like a fun project to look at.

Yeah that’s exactly what I was thinking but just figured I would take the “lazy” way first and see if someone else did something already.

Thanks!

I’ll get around to it sooner or later. If I figure something out I’ll post it.

#7516 72 days ago
Quoted from melumga:

I really don’t mean to be a Negative Nancy, but aside from the cabinet damage during transit (which I’m sure Spooky will make right), I’m also having issues with phantom ball locks and reboots. Here’s a video (shot over 3 consecutive games) that captures the weirdness.
I’ve checked and reseated all of the optos. The switch test shows the correct switches firing as the ball activates them. The dropdown target tests pass with no errors.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Oh and I'm on the latest code - 2020.10.12.

I notice a repeated anomaly in your video there.

Twice (maybe more) in the video at 27 sec and 55 sec, you bash the Right flipper and at the same time the ball save Pauses and the game goes into sequence to launch a ball and adds the second ball.

Perhaps something shooter lane or trough related could do some of this, too?

Is this something to do with that "flipper switch hits the shooter plunger" thing, or some such??

#7517 72 days ago

Got my mods from the Mod Couple installed. They look really great!

The coaster clips are very tight and I had a hard time getting it on the the plastic ramp. I had to squeeze the ramp pretty good to get it installed. I tried several times to move it around to different places. In the end I had to flip it around (my preference anyway) to get it on and the end of it on one side is not actually clipped on because I didn’t want to squeeze my ramp anymore in fear of breaking. Not sure if this is a ramp issue (consistency of width)or the mod is too tight?

Either way not complaining because I love the way this mod coupled with the Anatomy Park sign/mod transforms the boring ramp into something more fun and brings the game alive a little more. Great mods Yelobird (Mod Couple)!!! Thanks!

8AECFABB-93A1-4F5E-AEE5-DAC76FC3D9F1 (resized).jpegEDF02141-AB50-4CB8-9685-5309F9807130 (resized).jpeg
#7518 72 days ago

I am hoping when #544 arrives, I don't have the same issue with the Whirly Dirly mod. I do not want to see the "Funko face" on Rick and would prefer to have mine installed the other way. Love the mod, hate the stupid Funko eyes.

#7519 72 days ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

I am hoping when #544 arrives, I don't have the same issue with the Whirly Dirly mod. I do not want to see the "Funko face" on Rick and would prefer to have mine installed the other way. Love the mod, hate the stupid Funko eyes.

Nah it should be fine. I’m sure I could’ve installed it the other way. Like I said I actually prefer seeing Rick’s face.

Sounds like you dislike Funko pops with a passion. Doesn’t bother me but I get it.

#7520 71 days ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Nah it should be fine. I’m sure I could’ve installed it the other way. Like I said I actually prefer seeing Rick’s face.
Sounds like you dislike Funko pops with a passion. Doesn’t bother me but I get it.

Looks great I can only Imagine how many hours your going to put on that game this weekend lol. Yeah, when flipped the Coaster is typically installed much lower on the ramp which is far more flexible then the formed top area. Looks great enjoy that Awesome game!

#7521 71 days ago

All three decals on #159 impacted by the leg issue. I put on double metal leg protectors and the legs still dig in quite a bit on all four corners. I think there is no saving these bad legs.

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#7522 71 days ago
Quoted from Izzy24:

All three decals on #159 impacted by the leg issue. I put on double metal leg protectors and the legs still dig in quite a bit on all four corners. I think there is no saving these bad legs.

Same as mine. I doubled up on the PBL protectors and it seems to offset the legs the right distance. Spooky had offered some fixes on this initially, but it's been radio silence for a couple weeks for me so maybe they're deciding what to do.

#7523 71 days ago

The legs are bowed inward ever so slightly, no amount of metal spacers at the corner of the cabinet will make the legs not point in at the edges. It’s just not possible the legs are defective. I put big plastic spacers on but the legs are digging in to the spacers it’s just a fact a square cabinet will not work with inward bowed legs. I have not checked under my plastic spacers but they are pressing at the edges hopefully not enough to damage the decal. 51B39079-08D0-4661-B2E0-FEB1516C8303 (resized).jpeg

#7524 71 days ago
Quoted from rai:

The legs are bowed inward ever so slightly, no amount of metal spacers at the corner of the cabinet will make the legs not point in at the edges. It’s just not possible the legs are defective. I put big plastic spacers on but the legs are digging in to the spacers it’s just a fact a square cabinet will not work with inward bowed legs. I have not checked under my plastic spacers but they are pressing at the edges hopefully not enough to damage the decal. [quoted image]

Doubling up on the metal spacers will not make the legs stop pointing inward, but they will keep them far enough away from the cabinet that they will not touch. Putting the larger plastic spacers on will only cause the plastic to dig into the cabinet instead of the leg. Double up the thinner metal ones or get the thick ones that Mantis makes and you should be good. Personally, if the issue is not resolved by the time mine is ordered, I will be putting the Mantis protector over the stock Spooky one. That will keep the leg away from the cabinet for sure.

https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-leg-protector-hidden/

#7525 71 days ago
Quoted from rai:

The legs are bowed inward ever so slightly, no amount of metal spacers at the corner of the cabinet will make the legs not point in at the edges. It’s just not possible the legs are defective. I put big plastic spacers on but the legs are digging in to the spacers it’s just a fact a square cabinet will not work with inward bowed legs. I have not checked under my plastic spacers but they are pressing at the edges hopefully not enough to damage the decal. [quoted image]

Be careful... the plastic spacers will damage the decals as well.

#7526 71 days ago
Quoted from gac:

Be careful... the plastic spacers will damage the decals as well.

Agreed plastic spacers are a waste of time. Felt is the only option in my experience.

#7527 71 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Agreed plastic spacers are a waste of time. Felt is the only option in my experience.

Tried felt. Not really enough to help in this situation unfortunately.

#7528 71 days ago

For those equipped to do so, can the legs be laid flat on a surface (edges flat on a workbench) and then pressed from the "top" (corner) to gently increase the spread angle? Might be the way to salvage them, but I'm not sure how well the powder coat would sustain that kind of flex stress.

#7529 71 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

For those equpiied to do so, can the legs be laid flat on a surface (edges flat on a workbench) and then pressed from the "top" (corner) to gently increase the spread angle? Might be the way to salvage them, but I'm not sure how well the powder coat would sustain that kind of flex stress.

That’s completely ridiculous. Owners with defective legs should get replacements. Period.

#7530 71 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

That’s completely ridiculous. Owners with defective legs should get replacements. Period.

Of course they should. But "meanwhile....", rather than stacking protectors and other goofy things... Could be an interim workaround

#7531 71 days ago

The legs come in the box with the game. Now that we know some legs were formed or bent with less than a 90-degree angle, all people receiving their games should check the inside angle of all four legs (at the area around the bolt holes) and if it is less than 90-degrees either use multiple stacked leg protectors (making sure this prevents the legs from touching the cabinet) or else temporarily use a set of Bally/Williams legs (if you have an extra set).

#7532 71 days ago

This would make a great beverage to serve at any get togethers people may have to welcome their new games. You know. If not for COVID.
Pickle Rick Miracle Seltzer: https://miracleseltzer.com/pages/pickle-rick

Someone mentioned it a ways back, but the link was broken.

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#7533 71 days ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

Doubling up on the metal spacers will not make the legs stop pointing inward, but they will keep them far enough away from the cabinet that they will not touch. Putting the larger plastic spacers on will only cause the plastic to dig into the cabinet instead of the leg. Double up the thinner metal ones or get the thick ones that Mantis makes and you should be good. Personally, if the issue is not resolved by the time mine is ordered, I will be putting the Mantis protector over the stock Spooky one. That will keep the leg away from the cabinet for sure.
https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-leg-protector-hidden/

Spooky sent me an additional set of metal guards and I installed over the existing ones. It didn’t make any difference. The thicker guards you mention from Mantis pinball are only slightly ticker than 2 of the spooky ones stacked. I bought the Mantis and I’m holding off on installing them because you have to drill holes in the cabinet to install them. I feel like why should I have to pay the $40 plus drill holes in a cabinet because I got defective legs?

#7534 71 days ago
Quoted from Izzy24:

Spooky sent me an additional set of metal guards and I installed over the existing ones. It didn’t make any difference. The thicker guards you mention from Mantis pinball are only slightly ticker than 2 of the spooky ones stacked. I bought the Mantis and I’m holding off on installing them because you have to drill holes in the cabinet to install them. I feel like why should I have to pay the $40 plus drill holes in a cabinet because I got defective legs?

Just put thick nylon washers on the leg bolts between the inside of the leg and the metal standoffs. Was plenty to keep the legs off the cab when I had this same issue on Dialed In. It's irritating, but not the end of the world. I survived it on Dialed In, you can too.

#7535 71 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Just put thick nylon washers on the leg bolts between the inside of the leg and the metal standoffs. Was plenty to keep the legs off the cab when I had this same issue on Dialed In. It's irritating, but not the end of the world. I survived it on Dialed In, you can too.

I’ll give it a try, thanks. I do wanna get some Tibetan breeze flowing over those coils when available for this one.

#7536 71 days ago
Quoted from Izzy24:

I’ll give it a try, thanks. I do wanna get some Tibetan breeze flowing over those coils when available for this one.

Haha. Shouldn't be long now. Just got the first set of illustrations for the instructions back.

#7537 71 days ago

Ugh. So much for the "improved" clear ship bracket. Didn't just crack, snapped off completely. Guess I'll put the original one back on... pain in the neck to access though.

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#7538 71 days ago
Quoted from gac:

Ugh. So much for the "improved" clear ship bracket. Didn't just crack, snapped off completely. Guess I'll put the original one back on... pain in the neck to access though.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Someone is going to have to make a steel flapper to fix this properly I think.

#7539 71 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Someone is going to have to make a steel flapper to fix this properly I think.

The material really isn't designed for a use like this. It's no surprise this is how it ends.

#7540 71 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

The material really isn't designed for a use like this. It's no surprise this is how it ends.

It should be a simple matter to cut a little spring steel.
You could even paint it white if you want, or make it stainless color.

It will look fine.

#7541 71 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It should be a simple matter to cut a little spring steel.
You could even paint it white if you want, or make it stainless color.
It will look fine.

You could make two PETG pieces with a springloaded hinge that would absorb all the abuse instead of flexing a single piece as it is now that will always eventually break. That would solve the problem long-term and retain the transparency.

#7542 71 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

You could make two PETG pieces with a springloaded hinge that would absorb all the abuse instead of flexing a single piece as it is now that will always eventually break. That would solve the problem long-term and retain the transparency.

I dont even think transparency is an issue.

Durability is.

People put so many mods and dolls and toys on games these days you can barely see the playfield lol.

#7543 71 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I dont even think transparency is an issue.
Durability is.
People put so many mods and dolls and toys on games these days you can barely see the playfield lol.

The point I was trying to make is the transparency that was wanted in the original design can be preserved while at the same time making the part actually durable by separating it into two pieces with a springloaded hinge. If people don't care about trying to keep it looking OEM, then that doesn't matter.

#7544 71 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

The point I was trying to make is the transparency that was wanted in the original design can be preserved while at the same time making the part actually durable by separating it into two pieces with a springloaded hinge. If people don't care about trying to keep it looking OEM, then that doesn't matter.

Two things, first the most straightforward simple way to solve is to just cut a piece from Lexan or other material that is actually appropriate for the application, secondly this doesn't happen to most other games does it. There is some other condition that causes these to break on a small proportion of machines. It has been stated before that the post coil adjustment can be too high which causes excessive or more violent deflection of the ship. So it probably just requires that the up post coil be adjusted so that it does not push the ship up so far.

Just highlighting stuff that has been covered and bounced around earlier in the thread.

#7545 71 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

...material that is actually appropriate for the application, secondly this doesn't happen to most other games does it.

Do any other pins have a post that repeatedly bends a piece of plastic over and over? I can't think of any...

#7546 71 days ago

Can we just use the Tie Fighter On A Spring mech?

#7547 71 days ago

For those who wish to keep track - #386 options sheet received today.

#7548 71 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Two things, first the most straightforward simple way to solve is to just cut a piece from Lexan or other material that is actually appropriate for the application, secondly this doesn't happen to most other games does it. There is some other condition that causes these to break on a small proportion of machines. It has been stated before that the post coil adjustment can be too high which causes excessive or more violent deflection of the ship. So it probably just requires that the up post coil be adjusted so that it does not push the ship up so far.
Just highlighting stuff that has been covered and bounced around earlier in the thread.

I've been saying all along that this part needs re-designing. Mine snapped, spooky sent me a few replacements and a shorter rod and I'm grateful for that but now the ship hardly moves. I'm pretty sure it'll last forever but it has completely nerfed the mech. Needs a re-design.

#7549 71 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Can we just use the Tie Fighter On A Spring mech?

Prolly not Lol

They break too apparently don't they? . Also Lil Deadpools drop off the perch as well, mate here his broke off in his LE not long after he got it.

#7550 71 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Do any other pins have a post that repeatedly bends a piece of plastic over and over? I can't think of any...

Not the same way, but my Frankenstein launches balls full toss onto playfield plastics by design! Pmsl

Watch in awe as balls bounce off of the sheet plastic in there. Yeah they deflect/flex. Yeah they break Lol

I replaced most of the plastic guards with faceshield plastic (Lexan) . They bounce better now, and do not break.

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