(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

2 years ago


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There are 17,003 posts in this topic. You are on page 118 of 341.
#5851 1 year ago
Quoted from ripple:

Looks good but are you changing how it's mounted? I lessened the amount of travel when I replaced mine to try to keep it from breaking again.
[quoted image]

Nope, I just had it mounted backwards in the previous picture (corrected now). What do you mean by "Lessened the amount of travel"?

#5852 1 year ago
Quoted from xfassa:

"Lessened the amount of travel"

I think it was going up and down too far causing breakage over time. You can adjust it so the rod pushes the plate less.

#5853 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

-Scott's does some clever but subtle things with the music... When you play get Schwifty mode the audio acoustics change somewhat to make it more like a live performance.

This is why I am getting R&M while other companies all do great things with their games, I own TNA and the little touches are incredible Scott's pins have a little more attention than others.

#5854 1 year ago

We are excited to have joined the club! We picked up a machine on Sunday. Finally got it setup last night.

Now to get through this thread to see what we need to know and what mods are a must.

#5855 1 year ago
Quoted from ripple:

I installed the same model numbers in mine and the washed out colors from my view angle is much improved. Check all the cables. Hot gluing the cable to the monitor was a little tricky. There is a LED that comes on on the adjustment board. The menu button should bring something up on the display.[quoted image][quoted image]

Good to know I'm working with the right parts, I do get the green light on the controller adjustment board, but the menu button doesn't do anything when I press it the screen is dark. Although every now and then the screen will flash white, I can play games on the pin, just no screen. Still trying to diagnose where the weak link in the setup is.

Thanks for your help, ripple

#5856 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Good to know I'm working with the right parts, I do get the green light on the controller adjustment board, but the menu button doesn't do anything when I press it the screen is dark. Although every now and then the screen will flash white, I can play games on the pin, just no screen. Still trying to diagnose where the weak link in the setup is.
Thanks for your help, ripple

Remember, some times these components you buy... are not always good. You can receive DOA boards.

#5857 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Suggestion to add an ability to turn off the Shaker during the match screen. The game really shakes crazy. I've turned the match screen off bc of it.
Or maybe just lower the Shaker effect for the match screen?

I turned my shaker intensity down, I like it like that

#5858 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

I turned my shaker intensity down, I like it like that

yeah but then the rest of the game is turned down which I don't want.

#5859 1 year ago
Quoted from Nysbadmk8:

Remember, some times these components you buy... are not always good. You can receive DOA boards.

Thanks, good point... I'll try to narrow down where the error is happening, in the controller or screen or somewhere else. Any pointers I can look for to deduce?

Or is there some sort of gauge that the screen is relatively finicky/likely to be DOA but the controller board is sturdy, or vice versa?

#5860 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Thanks, good point... I'll try to narrow down where the error is happening, in the controller or screen or somewhere else. Any pointers I can look for to deduce?
Or is there some sort of gauge that the screen is relatively finicky/likely to be DOA but the controller board is sturdy, or vice versa?

Hmmm what’s going on here...

37778064-4658-4D6F-8610-93550A6A5C59 (resized).jpeg62A04B0B-62E3-47DD-975D-CB51F60AF9B5 (resized).jpeg
#5861 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Hmmm what’s going on here...

That is the key so you don't put in on the the wrong orientation.

#5862 1 year ago
Quoted from ripple:

That is the key so you don't put in on the the wrong orientation.

Yes, that’s what I originally thought... But then I noticed the black wire in the first photo is in the third spot, where the key is. Or maybe I’m misinterpreting something. Maybe the black wire should be one spot to the right and was accidentally put where the key is?

#5863 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

DOA but the controller board

I don't see why you couldn't use the controller board that came from the factory. They look identical. Maybe the only reason to get a new board was for the cable. Can't reuse the original cable because it's glued into place.

#5864 1 year ago

#183...... still here......hmm
Hello? Any news? Any new arrivals?

The shakes are coming back.

A shakey Message from the Freek Kingdom.

#5865 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Yes, that’s what I originally thought

OK, Mine has a whole different cable .

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#5866 1 year ago
Quoted from ripple:

OK, Mine has a whole different cable .
[quoted image]

Where did you buy yours from? Do you have a link. This is odd. Thanks!

#5867 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Where did you buy yours from?

The one you got does not match the picture on Amazon.

ebay.com link: HDMI DVI VGA Audio Controller Board For 15 6 B156HW01 LP156WF1 1920x1080 LCD

#5868 1 year ago
Quoted from ripple:

The one you got does not match the picture on Amazon.
ebay.com link » Hdmi Dvi Vga Audio Controller Board For 15 6 B156hw01 Lp156wf1 1920x1080 Lcd

Interesting. The controller board shares the m.nt68676.2 number but the main cable seems different. I may try the original controller board - it also says m.nt68676.2.

#5869 1 year ago

BOOM!!! Suckers!
My distributer just got the email from Spooky, #183 shipping next week!
Hopefully on Monday, maybe I'll get it by Friday????
Now the only question is whether I unbox my game first, or rarehero does his?

Exultant Message from the Freak Kingdom.

MV5BNDVjNjExN2I[email protected]@._V1_ (resized).jpg

#5870 1 year ago

Just put up this score (my best to date) . This game is rad!

B51B8500-EAEE-4AA1-BEC7-E687B33B53FE (resized).jpeg
#5871 1 year ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Just put up this score (my best to date) . This game is rad!
[quoted image]

Your the Morty-est Doug

#5872 1 year ago

What level % of filthy, is yours set at?
I was thinking 25% would make it funnier, so it sounds random.

#5873 1 year ago

I've been able to sort out my LCD upgrade, it turns out that the controller was sold with the incorrect wire (mine had about half wires in the connection that goes to the screen for some reason). I'd like to thank Kaneda, ripple, and jbigdoggf for their help walking me through the process and answering questions I had. It's great that the pinball community supports one another. The screen is installed, working and looks great!

I also have two key quality of life adjustments I discovered today and strongly recommend:

1. Spooky's inner orbit adjustment of removing the screws has fixed the shot so it's loopable and reliably hit - the curve works. Given this, I recommend lowering the ballguide at the screw closest to the player as far as possible. This will achieve 3 things:

a. It exposes the rubber post for right orbit shots that return to the inner orbit (reverse), the ball hits the rubber and lofts it right above the upper right flipper. When the post is hidden out of the trajectory of the ball, the ball returns just below the Meeseeks target (which is less fun).

b. With fewer screws, the ballguide may be at risk of shifting. This will prevent the centrifugal force from shifting the wall over time and scratching the playfield

c. It doesn't negatively affect the loopeability, if anything it makes the shot easier.

2. Adjust the amplifier to reduce glass vibration noise - The amplifier is on the right side of the pin about a foot an a half in. The knobs can be turned to change the settings (they should be on the side facing the wall). There are five knobs to turn (from closest to furthest), Sub Volume, X-Over (these first two are smaller), Treble, Bass, and Volume Control.

Some may zero in on turning down the base to reduce the vibration, but this isn't what I recommend. Sub Volume is what you want to focus on - this is the amount of subwoofer volume relative to the rest of the volume... But it might as well be called the "Glass rattle level". Turn it all the way counter clockwise, then slightly increase. If no rattle, increase a bit more, until you hit the sweet spot. Mine is just a nudge over all the way counter clockwise.

Hope this is helpful.
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#5874 1 year ago
Quoted from gonzo73:

What level % of filthy, is yours set at?
I was thinking 25% would make it funnier, so it sounds random.

100%, it’s always funny. I went down a couple notches and then put it back to 100 already

#5875 1 year ago
Quoted from gonzo73:

What level % of filthy, is yours set at?
I was thinking 25% would make it funnier, so it sounds random.

I set mine at 100% most of the time. I set it at 0% when my daughter can hear it. The quick change feature is really nice.

#5876 1 year ago

I do want to try 50% though because I think that setting would give the best mix of all the options.

#5877 1 year ago

I had a couple of questions about rules/gameplay if anyone is able to answer:

-Are there any points for megaseeds during gameplay (not bonus), specifically when there is a Meeseeks multiplier on the shot (and no other associated shot lit)?
-I notice I can stay in a dimension by relighting the portal again for the next dimension and then not aiming for the garage. Is this an intended/potential gameplay strategy to stay in desired dimensions?
-When the ball goes past the opto in front of the ship, I hear a slight hum like something engaging? Is this one of the playfield components or something?
-I've noticed white, green and yellow stamps (Note: I start with zero stamps). Green is when an adventure was played well, but what does yellow represent?

Two dimension ideas I'd like to share for TheNoTrashCougar and epthegeek to consider:

1. The dedicated single color theme dimensions look great (night vision, twilight zone, under water). Would there be potential to expand on this to create duotone lightshows (like a red and yellow hot dimension, or a purple, pink, and orange Planet Squanch, or green and yellow bird world, or white and blue crystal cold dimensions (Venzenulon 9).

2. A Blips and Chitz dimension with arcade style lighting and old school arcade game sounds.

Also, great detail on Total Rickall with how the how the animations of the parasites being killed correspond with the character shot on the playfield.

15
#5878 1 year ago

Well....i went back to the drawing board. I really didn't like the original or my reprint in translucent green. So. I tried to make a death crystal version. Any better?

20200919_110708 (resized).jpg

#5879 1 year ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Well....i went back to the drawing board. I really didn't like the original or my reprint in translucent green. So. I tried to make a death crystal version. Any better?
[quoted image]

Now you are on to something. Looks good!

#5880 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I had a couple of questions about rules/gameplay if anyone is able to answer:
-Are there any points for megaseeds during gameplay (not bonus), specifically when there is a Meeseeks multiplier on the shot (and no other associated shot lit)?

Megaseeds award exactly one point when collected. No more; no less.

-I notice I can stay in a dimension by relighting the portal again for the next dimension and then not aiming for the garage. Is this an intended/potential gameplay strategy to stay in desired dimensions?

Yes.

-When the ball goes past the opto in front of the ship, I hear a slight hum like something engaging? Is this one of the playfield components or something?

If there are any balls inside the ship, when you break the ‘gate’ opto, the target raise coils are pulsed on either side where there is a ball to prevent the target from going down to help prevent balls from escaping.

-I've noticed white, green and yellow stamps (Note: I start with zero stamps). Green is when an adventure was played well, but what does yellow represent?

Yellow represents the losing team in Fall Guys .... I mean, free stamp. (Mystery, or start of game)

Two dimension ideas I'd like to share for thenotrashcougar and epthegeek to consider:
1. The dedicated single color theme dimensions look great (night vision, twilight zone, under water). Would there be potential to expand on this to create duotone lightshows (like a red and yellow hot dimension, or a purple, pink, and orange Planet Squanch, or green and yellow bird world, or white and blue crystal cold dimensions (Venzenulon 9).

The underwater dimension is not mono-tone, only the GI is blue (and the music is AWESOME).

2. A Blips and Chitz dimension with arcade style lighting and old school arcade game sounds.

If Scott wants to make some non-infringing video game type noises, we could do this one.

Also, great detail on Total Rickall with how the how the animations of the parasites being killed correspond with the character shot on the playfield.

I have another tiny detail thing I keep meaning to add to TR and forgetting. I’ll have to get that in the next public release.

#5881 1 year ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Well....i went back to the drawing board. I really didn't like the original or my reprint in translucent green. So. I tried to make a death crystal version. Any better?
[quoted image]

I like it !

#5882 1 year ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Well....i went back to the drawing board. I really didn't like the original or my reprint in translucent green. So. I tried to make a death crystal version. Any better?
[quoted image]

Can you take another picture zoomed out so we can see how it looks while looking at the playfield too?

#5883 1 year ago

Those crystals look cool, but they don't have a reason to shake whenever the ship does...

#5884 1 year ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Those crystals look cool, but they don't have a reason to shake whenever the ship does...

Well....from the episode, the ship did crash into the rock structure that contained death crystals. The impact would have shaken the ground. So, it all makes sense to have crystals shaking with the ship. Sorry....best I can come up with. I still think it looks a heck of a lot better than the original ship mount.

#5885 1 year ago

Regarding portal, such nuance in this game... This feature adds a lot of control and strategy to the dimensions beyond the seeming random selection - Get to a new dimension, if it's a good dimension - then charge the portal quickly to lock in the dimension and stay... But if it's a bad one - charge to leave.

Yes regarding underwater dimension, I was mainly referring to the GI (and there is also a bit of blue pulsing in color brightness). Fingers crossed for Blips and Chitz, could even have some EM chimes in there.

#5886 1 year ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Well....from the episode, the ship did crash into the rock structure that contained death crystals. The impact would have shaken the ground. So, it all makes sense to have crystals shaking with the ship. Sorry....best I can come up with. I still think it looks a heck of a lot better than the original ship mount.

That rationalization works. But if you split the crystals from the ship mount, and mounted them in front of it on the other stationary mounting screws, I would definitely want one!

#5887 1 year ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

That rationalization works. But if you split the crystals from the ship mount, and mounted them in front of it on the other stationary mounting screws, I would definitely want one!

Good suggestion. I will give it a go.

10
#5888 1 year ago
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#5889 1 year ago

Kiss the Vat

#5890 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Can you take another picture zoomed out so we can see how it looks while looking at the playfield too?

Per your request.

20200919_205655 (resized).jpg

#5891 1 year ago

It looks good there without the house, but curious to see how it looks (and what it blocks) with the house installed. I think its a great plan and look, but really want to see it with the complete game. Good job!

#5892 1 year ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Well....i went back to the drawing board. I really didn't like the original or my reprint in translucent green. So. I tried to make a death crystal version. Any better?
[quoted image]

Looks great! ... an idea for even further improvment; the crystals can hide the spring mount, mount the crystals to the stationary outer section instead as someone else suggested. Even maybe make the spring mount just a smidge shorter, and then adjust for less violent ship movement?

#5893 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Looks great! ... an idea for even further improvment; the crystals can hide the spring mount, mount the crystals to the stationary outer section instead as someone else suggested. Even maybe make the spring mount just a smidge shorter, and then adjust for less violent ship movement?

Thanks to all for the feedback.

I redesigned the crystals to make them stationary. I also made the spring mount shorter. All pieces printing now. I will share pictures in the morning.
20200920_075214 (resized).jpg20200920_075412 (resized).jpg

20200920_075158 (resized).jpg
#5894 1 year ago

Once again, thanks to all for the feedback. I think the standalone statically mounted crystals was the way to go. It only requires the removal of one lock nut to mount. It will pretty much cover up the original spring mount. I will show some pics of it all back together shortly.

#5895 1 year ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Once again, thanks to all for the feedback. I think the standalone statically mounted crystals was the way to go. It only requires the removal of one lock nut to mount. It will pretty much cover up the original spring mount. I will show some pics of it all back together shortly.

Looks good, great idea!
Looking forward to seeing it with the house installed again. Get a picture with the crystals lit up too, please.

12
#5896 1 year ago

I set up my R&M yesterday!

Goofy things first:
-Portal on the topper doesn’t work - except for a moment, then it stopped again.

-The bass was WAAAAAAAY too high. Beyond just glass shaking, the audio sounded like a distorted fart. Dialed it down on the amplifier to almost zero, and it sounds good now, still shakes a bit.

-Some of my scoop number segments were out. Found disconnected cable, all good now.

-Pop Bumper froze after like 20 games...one of the nuts fell off. Found it, tightened it up, all good now.

-There was some kind of issue or bug where there was a ball locked, and the targets just kept flicking it...the game didn’t shoot another into play, Rick yelled at me, and even in ball search, the lock wouldn’t let the balls go. I’ve since updated the code, hasn’t happened since - so maybe just a bug.

The good:
-Playfield is like glass. Gorgeous.

-Cabinet decals are thick & glossy. Glad I didn’t get butter, these are perfect.

-I feel like the feedback from earlier games have led to a better tweaked build - sure the shots are hard, but when I was making them, I was getting satisfying combos on all the tough shots. The scoop also sucks in the ball really smoothly.

Anyway, really enjoying the game so far! Gonna go play some more.

#5897 1 year ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I set up my R&M yesterday!
Goofy things first:
-Portal on the topper doesn’t work - except for a moment, then it stopped again.
-The bass was WAAAAAAAY too high. Beyond just glass shaking, the audio sounded like a distorted fart. Dialed it down on the amplifier to almost zero, and it sounds good now, still shakes a bit.
-Some of my scoop number segments were out. Found disconnected cable, all good now.
-Pop Bumper froze after like 20 games...one of the nuts fell off. Found it, tightened it up, all good now.
-There was some kind of issue or bug where there was a ball locked, and the targets just kept flicking it...the game didn’t shoot another into play, Rick yelled at me, and even in ball search, the lock wouldn’t let the balls go. I’ve since updated the code, hasn’t happened since - so maybe just a bug.
The good:
-Playfield is like glass. Gorgeous.
-Cabinet decals are thick & glossy. Glad I didn’t get butter, these are perfect.
-I feel like the feedback from earlier games have led to a better tweaked build - sure the shots are hard, but when I was making them, I was getting satisfying combos on all the tough shots. The scoop also sucks in the ball really smoothly.
Anyway, really enjoying the game so far! Gonna go play some more.

Rarehero gettin shwifty!

Congrats man!

6D77F9CA-FC33-4328-B969-BAFD138B4ED2 (resized).jpeg
#5898 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Rarehero gettin shwifty!
Congrats man! [quoted image]

It’s in good company.

(For now - this is just a temporary setup...R&M is prob going in another room once we settle in more...although maybe I should keep the 3 animated games together...but ugh, I don’t want to move STTNG again)

50038995-DBF7-48F8-9956-1BC822CAD87D.jpeg
#5899 1 year ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

There was some kind of issue or bug where there was a ball locked, and the targets just kept flicking it...the game didn’t shoot another into play, Rick yelled at me, and even in ball search, the lock wouldn’t let the balls go. I’ve since updated the code, hasn’t happened since - so maybe just a bug.

If the lock was in the scoop, check the microswitch on it - mine was screwed in a bit too tight and loosening it fixed it.

#5900 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

If the lock was in the scoop, check the microswitch on it - mine was screwed in a bit too tight and loosening it fixed it.

The scoop seems fine so far. It was just one ball in the Danesi lock. The drop target would keep “flicking” it...but not releasing it.

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