Quoted from DNO:Fuse on the p-roc board, when mine does that occasionally.
only blown about 3 times on location, thousands of plays, one of the top earners!
Yep - fuse - thanks everyone.
(Topic ID: 257850)
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Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
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Quoted from SR230CC:#725 Shipped Today
Desperately hoping mine shipped as well. We'll see.
Quoted from Zablon:There's a new test version out today, but the notes appear the same as 5/11 IIRC, so not sure what changed.
IIRC 5/11 had a known bugs note that's gone now.
My guess is it's 5/11 without those bugs.
San Clemente, CA
Anyone who is having portal eject consistency issues, I was able to fix mine (errant ejects would sometimes ricochet into the outlane).
What I did was after inspecting the VUK to ensure everything was in place, I put the table back down and reached through the coin door and pulled the VUK towards the the front (towards the player) until it bent ever so slightly in that direction. Immediately, after a few light adjustments and trials, it started coming out clean and SUPER fast. What I believe is happening now is the ball is catching the back of the VUK and riding it up and out...doing that makes it not strike the metal tab in the front and as a result it shoots out like liquid going through a straw...as it should. Two weeks since I made the adjustment, and I now get super fast perfect ejects 99+% of the time.
Calfdemon was also having similar VUK eject problems that were fixed by making this slight adjustment.
Quoted from orlandu81:Anyone who is having portal eject consistency issues, I was able to fix mine (errant ejects would sometimes ricochet into the outlane).
What I did was after inspecting the VUK to ensure everything was in place, I put the table back down and reached through the coin door and pulled the VUK towards the the front (towards the player) until it bent ever so slightly in that direction. Immediately, after a few light adjustments and trials, it started coming out clean and SUPER fast. What I believe is happening now is the ball is catching the back of the VUK and riding it up and out...doing that makes it not strike the metal tab in the front and as a result it shoots out like liquid going through a straw...as it should. Two weeks since I made the adjustment, and I now get super fast perfect ejects 99+% of the time.
Calfdemon was also having similar VUK eject problems that were fixed by making this slight adjustment.
Amen to this. The adjustment is golden if you do not have a consistent portal eject. Before I made the adjustment recommended by @orlandu81, many of my ejects would bounce around and some would go down the left drain, while others would bounce out to the center of the play field.
Someone needs to sticky the post because it makes a world of difference to an irregular eject. Now my eject has been 100% down the lane to the left flipper as it should be. And blazing fast as well.
Quoted from Calfdemon:Someone needs to sticky the post
Done. It's under TECH: PLAYFIELD. If you sort by name on the index, it puts all the tech stuff together.
Auckland
Post sleeves: What is everyone using for replacements ? After 850 games the sleeves beside the scoop are shredded (I know, I should be hitting the scoop or the ship loop and not the posts and I wouldn't have a problem).
I think these are the choices from Pinball Life:
Product ID: PBL-700-0026-00-XX
PerfectPlay 1-1/16" Thin (Stern Compatible) Rubber Post Sleeve
and
Product ID: 23-6556-xx
1-1/16" Super-Bands Translucent Post Sleeves
Will the Super Bands last longer in real life?
Quoted from jaybeedee:Post sleeves: What is everyone using for replacements ? After 850 games the sleeves beside the scoop are shredded (I know, I should be hitting the scoop or the ship loop and not the posts and I wouldn't have a problem).
I think these are the choices from Pinball Life:
Product ID: PBL-700-0026-00-XX
PerfectPlay 1-1/16" Thin (Stern Compatible) Rubber Post Sleeve
and
Product ID: 23-6556-xx
1-1/16" Super-Bands Translucent Post Sleeves
Will the Super Bands last longer in real life?
The SuperBands are extremely durable. Some don't like the way they behave differently. Behaviour isn't that dramaticaly different though, most don't even notice. What is very different that I like is not replacing post rubbers all the time.
Quoted from jaybeedee:Post sleeves: What is everyone using for replacements ?
I have a bunch of Cliffy sleeves in Pukekohe.
I’d have to check in the weekend what colours I have left ...
rd
Quoted from orlandu81:Mine looks like yours. I assume yours got stuck? The rod on mine has gotten stuck in the up position a couple of times, thought it was strange how loose it felt when I lifted the table to discover the issue. Curious if others have made any adjustments to prevent this.
Quoted from Zablon:No that's right, the rod should be loose, and it pushed up by the metal bar below it that is attached to the coil. Looks like maybe yours is set too high or too short as it should be touching that bar.
On mine it looks like the end broke off . It is not flat or long enough to reach the metal plate from what i can tell . I didn't find anything in the cabinet ; although it might be there somewhere. Hard to get a pic of what i think is the broken end where its supposed to be touching the metal.
thanks.
Just a heads up, the super band and cliffy post sleeves are thicker than the pinballlife thin “stern compatible” sleeves. So if you decide to use super bands or cliffies, you are going to close up your shots ever so slightly. Also, the cliffy posts are much harder material than the super bands. Pics for size reference.
From left to right: pinballlife thins, super band, cliffy.
5931B0BD-33B5-492E-9BCA-91321A85FB37 (resized).jpegC6D82094-C612-4935-A454-E6E13CC4DD05 (resized).jpeg
Toronto, ON
Quoted from Beamer2007:The Eagle has landed... BS 252! Now to get it inside somehow....[quoted image]
Take your doors off like I did
FJIMG_20210518_133121 (resized).jpg
This might be a license to watch out for in a couple of years. Still holding out hope for a Solar Opposites pin as well. Season 2 was excellent!
https://comicbook.com/anime/news/rick-morty-spinoff-the-vindicators-adult-swim/
Quoted from MikeS:This might be a license to watch out for in a couple of years. Still holding out hope for a Solar Opposites pin as well. Season 2 was excellent!
https://comicbook.com/anime/news/rick-morty-spinoff-the-vindicators-adult-swim/
“The Wall” in the show could be turned into a pin all on its own!
Quoted from DruTheFu:“The Wall” in the show could be turned into a pin all on its own!
Lower Level could be Solar Opposites and then make a vertical pin to fight your way up The Wall like BANZAI RUN....
I fixed my diverter yesterday. I didn't realize what the problem was before I took it apart. I'm going to try to explain here in case it helps other owners. I know that someone (sorry I forget the name) is working on a new diverter that is welded. That would completely fix the issue.
How is it supposed to work: In an "off" state the diverter should be open to the portal/garage. When the ball rolls over the right orbit switch the diverter should rapidly turn "on" effectively closing the lane to the garage and forcing the ball down the inner loop. Only when the green flashing "portal ready!" arrow is lit should you expect the diverter to remain open or "off" allowing entrance to the portal/garage.
What causes the issue: Spooky designed the diverter such that it is held onto the shaft using nylock nuts. These nuts rub against the decal applied to the backboard which in my case produced too much friction for the diverter to naturally open ("off" state).
The Fix: In my case, I just finished the work that Spooky started. As you can see in the picture, Spooky knows this is an issue because they already ground down the nuts and bolts. I pulled out my Dremel and did more of the same. I also had to take a tiny bit off of the C ring that they have on the shaft.
I'm not sure how stable the solution is as you end up removing more of the nylon and metal needed to hold the bolts in place. It seems sufficient, but only time will tell. The best solution would be to weld the two pieces together such that there is no extended metal surface to catch on the backboard.
IMG_0373 (resized).jpegQuoted from Aniraf:I fixed my diverter yesterday. I didn't realize what the problem was before I took it apart. I'm going to try to explain here in case it helps other owners. I know that someone (sorry I forget the name) is working on a new diverter that is welded. That would completely fix the issue.
How is it supposed to work: In an "off" state the diverter should be open to the portal/garage. When the ball rolls over the right orbit switch the diverter should rapidly turn "on" effectively closing the lane to the garage and forcing the ball down the inner loop. Only when the green flashing "portal ready!" arrow is lit should you expect the diverter to remain open or "off" allowing entrance to the portal/garage.
What causes the issue: Spooky designed the diverter such that it is held onto the shaft using nylock nuts. These nuts rub against the decal applied to the backboard which in my case produced too much friction for the diverter to naturally open ("off" state).
The Fix: In my case, I just finished the work that Spooky started. As you can see in the picture, Spooky knows this is an issue because they already ground down the nuts and bolts. I pulled out my Dremel and did more of the same. I also had to take a tiny bit off of the C ring that they have on the shaft.
I'm not sure how stable the solution is as you end up removing more of the nylon and metal needed to hold the bolts in place. It seems sufficient, but only time will tell. The best solution would be to weld the two pieces together such that there is no extended metal surface to catch on the backboard.
[quoted image]
Someone should reach out to mantis and see if he'd be up to fabricate this...seems up his alley
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:Just got my shipping notification for my standard IT'S HAPPENING!!!!!
What number?
Quoted from Aniraf:I fixed my diverter yesterday. I didn't realize what the problem was before I took it apart. I'm going to try to explain here in case it helps other owners. I know that someone (sorry I forget the name) is working on a new diverter that is welded. That would completely fix the issue.
How is it supposed to work: In an "off" state the diverter should be open to the portal/garage. When the ball rolls over the right orbit switch the diverter should rapidly turn "on" effectively closing the lane to the garage and forcing the ball down the inner loop. Only when the green flashing "portal ready!" arrow is lit should you expect the diverter to remain open or "off" allowing entrance to the portal/garage.
What causes the issue: Spooky designed the diverter such that it is held onto the shaft using nylock nuts. These nuts rub against the decal applied to the backboard which in my case produced too much friction for the diverter to naturally open ("off" state).
The Fix: In my case, I just finished the work that Spooky started. As you can see in the picture, Spooky knows this is an issue because they already ground down the nuts and bolts. I pulled out my Dremel and did more of the same. I also had to take a tiny bit off of the C ring that they have on the shaft.
I'm not sure how stable the solution is as you end up removing more of the nylon and metal needed to hold the bolts in place. It seems sufficient, but only time will tell. The best solution would be to weld the two pieces together such that there is no extended metal surface to catch on the backboard.
[quoted image]
My game was delivered last week so I have not experienced this issue (yet..?) but if the diverter nuts are rubbing the backboard wouldn't it be easier to just modify/notch the backboard to give the diverter the clearance it needs?
Quoted from MrCleanHead:My game was delivered last week so I have not experienced this issue (yet..?) but if the diverter nuts are rubbing the backboard wouldn't it be easier to just modify/notch the backboard to give the diverter the clearance it needs?
I'm not sure if I would consider it easier considering then you would have to clean up the wood shavings inside of the machine...but I fully agree that it would work just fine. I guess it simply depends on if you like grinding metal or wood 
.
Quoted from MrCleanHead:My game was delivered last week so I have not experienced this issue (yet..?) but if the diverter nuts are rubbing the backboard wouldn't it be easier to just modify/notch the backboard to give the diverter the clearance it needs?
Ahh, I should say mine is #516. It is entirely possible this is a thing of the past.
Quoted from Aniraf:I fixed my diverter yesterday. I didn't realize what the problem was before I took it apart. I'm going to try to explain here in case it helps other owners. I know that someone (sorry I forget the name) is working on a new diverter that is welded. That would completely fix the issue.
How is it supposed to work: In an "off" state the diverter should be open to the portal/garage. When the ball rolls over the right orbit switch the diverter should rapidly turn "on" effectively closing the lane to the garage and forcing the ball down the inner loop. Only when the green flashing "portal ready!" arrow is lit should you expect the diverter to remain open or "off" allowing entrance to the portal/garage.
What causes the issue: Spooky designed the diverter such that it is held onto the shaft using nylock nuts. These nuts rub against the decal applied to the backboard which in my case produced too much friction for the diverter to naturally open ("off" state).
The Fix: In my case, I just finished the work that Spooky started. As you can see in the picture, Spooky knows this is an issue because they already ground down the nuts and bolts. I pulled out my Dremel and did more of the same. I also had to take a tiny bit off of the C ring that they have on the shaft.
I'm not sure how stable the solution is as you end up removing more of the nylon and metal needed to hold the bolts in place. It seems sufficient, but only time will tell. The best solution would be to weld the two pieces together such that there is no extended metal surface to catch on the backboard.
[quoted image]
Curious, how did you note you had an issue? Could you hear the loud 'click' but it was still going to the portal? I'm still having an issue where even with MR's on that switch it doesn't 100% of the time activate (no click) when the portal is off.
Quoted from Aniraf:Ahh, I should say mine is #516. It is entirely possible this is a thing of the past.
I have been making notes over the months on what issues may come up and spooky seems to had addressed most of them out of the box, mine was #707 BSE. Plays great, my fist game was 22mil...having a hard time getting 5mil now
I only had to do some minor stuff (adjusting the Bass, shooter lane wire form, adjust EOS)
I have been working with Cliffy to get shooter lane protectors and should have the prototypes by the weekend. Hopefully we will be good and I will keep the forum updated in case anyone is interested.
Quoted from Zablon:Curious, how did you note you had an issue? Could you hear the loud 'click' but it was still going to the portal? I'm still having an issue where even with MR's on that switch it doesn't 100% of the time activate (no click) when the portal is off.
In my case it would stick in the "closed" state. The coil would fire, which closed the diverter for the inner loop but it would never open again since the nuts were getting stuck on the artwork. Every once in a while the vibration would open it up but I knew something was wrong since that green arrow would flash yet I couldn't reach the portal.
Quoted from MrCleanHead:I have been making notes over the months on what issues may come up and spooky seems to had addressed most of them out of the box, mine was #707 BSE. Plays great, my fist game was 22mil...having a hard time getting 5mil now
I only had to do some minor stuff (adjusting the Bass, shooter lane wire form, adjust EOS)
Yeah I am #698 and have had very little issues. The left flipper set screw wasn't tight enough so I fixed that pretty easily and also adjusted the shooter lane power +1 and so far that's it. I think I may have one switch registering when the shaker rumbles but it's not consistent and doesn't bother me enough to try and figure it out yet
Also had the same thing - first game outta the box with no adjustments was 40M. I thought - oh maybe the new code (I only previously had played it before the pandemic) scores higher. Then subsequent games with way lower scores but finally had another good game - still learning the rules which is hard when playing solo but bringing it out for Sidewalk Pinball again soon so can play with others!
Quoted from Aniraf:I know that someone (sorry I forget the name) is working on a new diverter that is welded. That would completely fix the issue.
[quoted image]
Me....
and it works great.
I was playing tonight and may have found a bug with starting the Pickle Rick adventure. I had the portal shots lit purple to start Pickle Rick. I had collected two Meeseeks and the had a Meeseeks lit on the right orbit portal shot. I made the shot, expecting to have Pickle Rick and Meeseeks Multiball concurrently, but only Meeseeks Multiball started. After I drained one of the balls, Meeseeks mullitball ended and Pickle Rick shots re-lit. I'm not sure if that is a bug or not, but I figured since both were lit, making the shot would start both Pickle Rick and Meeseeks multiball.
Just when you start to get frustrated as shit with the beatdowns this game gives, the glorious combo of Meeseeks Mania and fart dimension starts and all that frustration melts away and I giggle non-stop like a 6 yr old. It was ball three and when the last ball was draining I still gave the game a “fuck you” nudge walking away with a smirk and the game responded with the loudest fart ever. I absolutely lost my shit. That’s why it’s the GOAT.
Quoted from Jakers:Just a heads up, the super band and cliffy post sleeves are thicker than the pinballlife thin “stern compatible” sleeves. So if you decide to use super bands or cliffies, you are going to close up your shots ever so slightly. Also, the cliffy posts are much harder material than the super bands. Pics for size reference.
From left to right: pinballlife thins, super band, cliffy.
[quoted image][quoted image]
That looks like the fat superband one ?. There is a slim one as well but not all suppliers seem to stock it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/73#post-5701879
Or perhaps looks can be decieving and the pic shows the slimmer one already. All I know is that I didn't like the fat superband posts vs the slimmer version. Most places have the fat version but not all suppliers have the skinny one.
Quoted from Eric_S:I was playing tonight and may have found a bug with starting the Pickle Rick adventure. I had the portal shots lit purple to start Pickle Rick. I had collected two Meeseeks and the had a Meeseeks lit on the right orbit portal shot. I made the shot, expecting to have Pickle Rick and Meeseeks Multiball concurrently, but only Meeseeks Multiball started. After I drained one of the balls, Meeseeks mullitball ended and Pickle Rick shots re-lit. I'm not sure if that is a bug or not, but I figured since both were lit, making the shot would start both Pickle Rick and Meeseeks multiball.
I had enquired about that before. The orbit shot is Meeseeks, the garage shot is Pickle Rick. Technically the Meeseeks activates before the Pickle Rick shot is hit.
Quoted from jonesjb:I had enquired about that before. The orbit shot is Meeseeks, the garage shot is Pickle Rick. Technically the Meeseeks activates before the Pickle Rick shot is hit.
That make sense. I have to imagine that it is a relatively uncommon situation to come up in the game.
Quoted from Lounge:Me....
and it works great.
[quoted image]
Looks great! Are you selling these? If so I will take one.
I have seen some posts in past of those rollover switch sensors used, where do you purchase those? have too many instances of my ball hitting/rejecting or getting stuck on rollover switches in some of the orbits.
Quoted from bemmett:I have seen some posts in past of those rollover switch sensors used, where do you purchase those? have too many instances of my ball hitting/rejecting or getting stuck on rollover switches in some of the orbits.
Sonic sells the magnetic switches.
Quoted from Palmer:Looks great! Are you selling these? If so I will take one.
Sorry, wasn’t planning on selling them. Any metal shop should be able to crank them out though. Maybe Mantis will make some.
Quoted from MrCleanHead:My game was delivered last week so I have not experienced this issue (yet..?) but if the diverter nuts are rubbing the backboard wouldn't it be easier to just modify/notch the backboard to give the diverter the clearance it needs?
I did exactly that
284DDE54-F91D-49E2-B1EE-D7A2718E181E (resized).jpeg8ECE991A-08C4-4B6E-AA85-5A2755651B94 (resized).jpegQuoted from HurryUpPinball:I did exactly that
[quoted image][quoted image]
I was curious on the rubbing issue so I looked into this on my game (#707) this morning and the diverter moves freely when manual moving it from the coil. I then looked between the backboard and the house (without taking anything apart) and it looks like I have at least a 1/16" space to the backboard. Hard to see but it looks like Spooky fixed this in the later builds.
I also updated the code to 5.18, no change for me in game play (flippers) and I'm absolutely loving the Moonmen adventure! The light show is the best I have seen in any game. Shout out to the Spooky team for making a great game and I hope the continue to add more adventures!
Quoted from MrCleanHead:I was curious on the rubbing issue so I looked into this on my game (#707) this morning and the diverter moves freely when manual moving it from the coil. I then looked between the backboard and the house (without taking anything apart) and it looks like I have at least a 1/16" space to the backboard. Hard to see but it looks like Spooky fixed this in the later builds.
Mine is #175 and my diverter was trapped behind the ball guide when it was built (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/164#post-5984455).
After adjusting the diverter, it closed freely and cleared the backboard just fine. So, it's unclear what the "correct" fix is, however modifying the diverter to remove the screws doesn't seem necessary if so many other machines seem to work.
Quoted from MrCleanHead:I also updated the code to 5.18
Well, well...a 5.18 code update! Sweetness
Quoted from LouMatt:Well, well...a 5.18 code update! Sweetness
Where would one acquire this new 5.18 code?
Quoted from Westbury:Where would one acquire this new 5.18 code?
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