I was just called by my distributor in Austria, which I am buying RnM from.He wanted to confirm my addons, and he says that I wont be needing to pay the penalty tax since I live in Norway which is not part of EU, same as Switzerland. Apparently I have been moved some spots ahead due to other people in EU postponing their spot, probably hoping for this penalty tax shit being solved before they get their machine.

So exciting news, althought it will still probably not be before christmas/this year. Enough time for Spooky to fix all the minor issues

But since you live in Norway, don't you have your own tax for import that's also 25%? Or you pay lower import tax in Norway?

We do, but thats something we are used to. But when buying from eu, they deduct their own tax. So when buying pinball parts from germany, my price is 19 % less than eu citizens must pay, but then when going though customs in norway , 25 % is added..

Thanks, glad it was helpful. The t-nuts busted my balls, since it was really difficult to see/feel exactly where they were going to connect. As the 2" screw was descending into the t-nut, it would either connect or push it out. Really frustrating. I noticed on Stern cabinets, they use #4 wood screws to help prevent the t-nut from popping out. Unfortunately, I noticed that after I was already frustrated I also don't know if I like adding 4 #4 wood screws for that purpose.

So...if you look closely, 2 of the screws are secured with washers where the lock nuts are required. I put the lock nuts on the t-nuts just for uniformity (yes, I'm a little OCD...they do, however provide more mounting security.

It looks like i might have a location for my game in the spring!

Ive never routed a game but have repaired hundreds and restored dozens.

I ordered my game with the bill acceptor door.

Does it come pre-wired for a bill validator or do i have to order a cable?

Also what bill validator and stacker is recommended for Spooky games?

What coin mechs give the fewest problems right now?

There is a cable for the bill acceptor because I posted on here asking what it was for. Someone told me it's for the bill acceptor. Not sure on your other questions as I don't route.

Thanks! This is helpful.

When you order the DBA door, they add the harness. I believe it is for a 110V DBA. I wouldn’t get a stacker that is more than 300 as it may be tight under the playfield there.

BSE 373 on the line! Can't wait!

image_123927839 (resized).JPG

Good advice! Thanks.

What DBA to get?

Nice Knocker!

If you're going 110v, hard to go wrong with a MEI 2411 DBA. Just make sure it is the flashport version, which can be upgraded as new bills appear. You can get them on Ebay for $100-$125 used. I have some I'd sell for $100, too. I also have the 12v ones, but those are much newer and more expensive. I'd stick with the 110v ones. Oh, and make sure you're getting the harness that connects it to the pin. Lots of times that's sold separately and is about another $15.

Used Mars 2411 with the latest code. You need the harness. eBay $100-120

Edit: the monk beat me to it.

Got it, Thanks!

What coin mechs are fairly robust?

I always just use the stock ones that Stern supplies. No idea beyond that. Never had one fail (but I think that's because they were new and over half the traffic went to the bill acceptors).

Every time I click on this thread I'm hoping for a code update with new adventures...

The stock Haap ones are for sure not the best, but ok for you if you have a DBA. Most of your drop will be dollars. If you are only doing quarters I’d probably go a different route after a while as they can have jamming issues. But all can if enough sticky quarters go through.

I agree it will be mostly dollars.

How does this one look?

ebay.com link: mars mei ae 2411 u 5 bill acceptor UPDATED 2020 1 5 DOLLAR 110v with flashport

I’d buy the one that PinMonk is offering for $100

Plus I’d go U3. U5 is 500 capacity and those are large and sometimes have clearance issues. Have not tested on R&M.

A much better idea!

Oh, right. I agree. Never had luck with the 500 stackers. Always clearance problems. 300 bill cartridges are the way to go.

PM sent

I would just use the mechs that come with the game, see how they are, mine have been just fine.
I didn’t place the original order online, so no bill acceptor, and no harnessing to install one.

Perfect!

Love them knockers!!!

Especially, knock on Tilt!

My mate can be rough and careless on games sometimes, last night he seemed almost Offended at the knocker going off with his Tilt...

His expression and response ... Gold

Me ... rotf pmsL ... I loved it!! #BestIdeaEver

You'll love it, something different than most other games.

Help! Some strange behavior started with my machine tonight. Having a new issue where it seems that the sling shot is not always activating (not because of a dimension) and the right side returns lanes aren't registering. Also, when the ball drains, the game doesn't realize it right away. After a period of time it finally does, goes into ball end mode, and kicks out a ball into the shooter lane but the launch button doesn't always light up and activate. It then will kick a second ball into the shooter lane and then it becomes difficult to push the balls out of the shooter lane and up the ramp until after several tries. Anybody else experience this? Any ideas? I looked for loose connectors under the playfield but didn't see anything loose. Thanks in advance for suggestions.

Im comitted to routing my game in the spring.

I reading about some sporadic odd behaviors and taking notes.

Is this game robust enough to go on route?

Any advice from operators is much appreciated.

Since its P3-roc Im thinking of supplying a variac for stability.

I wouldn’t recommend you open the box and route it day 1 unless you are going to be at the location often anyways. I’d play at least 100-200 games before you route it and try to dial it in.

There will likely be at least a few minor items that need to be addressed right away.

Since I have until spring to put it on route, Ill tweak it and enjoy it to the max until then.

My biggest concern is the ship support plastic breaking. I imagine that I will just turn it off while on route.

Everything else seems robust, other than resets and software issues.

I imagine that by april a lot of this will be sorted out.

Mine isnt. Not sure any amount of tweaking can correct ALL the issues.

But im guessing it would still do really well on location provided it stays up and running. Most of my issues mean somthing to me at home trying to beat the game, but on location just being R&M might be enough.

Would need to be loud enought to hear everything though. Sound is a huge part of the game.

For all it's issues, I still freakin' love it.

Thanks!

Honest opinions are always appreciared.

Thank you so much to PinMonk for the DBA!

Cant wait for the coil coolers for WOZ and Hobbit! They are desperately needed.

Anyone?

Sound like a switch matrix issue to me. Put the game into switch test and activate the switches in question to confirm. Check for loose connectors under the playfield or in the backbox.

In my game, the coil mech that moves the UFO is really noisy with a loose sheet of metal under the coil that moves the ship. It makes a loud clunking sound because the metal sheet bit is loose. Is the metal sheet bit supposed to be loose?

What causes s drop target to fire repeatedly.... in my case the rick drop under the car..

If I hit near it it will fire while the target itself is already up. Sometimes it will fire over and over again I counted it fire 11 times in a row.

Anything to check to fix it would be great.

Is R&M problematic? Seems like alot of issues popping up. Normally it seems like Spooky is very helpful, have things changed?

I'm having a similar issue but on the left side. Traced it to a flakey "Ship Left Bottom Opto". In switch test mode it would seemingly activate randomly even when nothing is happening on the playfield. Spooky is shipping me a replacement opto and wiring. In the meantime, I've been able to still enjoy the game somewhat by swapping the plugs for the Ship Left Bottom Opto and the Left Ramp Opto on the opto board. Having the left ramp activate randomly is a lot less annoying than having the ball lock activate randomly...and I can get to and through adventures easier

Maybe disable it while looking for a solution?

I don't think you'll have Houdini-type power problems with Rick and Morty. Spooky uses a robust (overly robust, IMO) switching power supply AND an AUX power supply as well - kind of where AP ended up after all the problems with their earlier design.

Thats really good to hear!

I had a problem where a drop target would not drop, it was catching on the switch actuator that says the target is down and jamming so it couldn't drop, this would result in it firing multiple times trying to drop but not achieving it. I had to bend the end of the switch actuator slightly to fix it. Strangely my machine had probably >1000 plays before this suddenly started happening.

If this is the first game you’re going to route a Stern is the way to go.
I’ve pulled my R&M after day one due to software issues that are still not resolved.
While I’m certain spooky will fix this it’s already been a few months with low communication.

In short the software freezes if the game is on for long periods(few hours) or in multiplayer games which makes it unusable on my location at least.
The only fix when it freezes is a reboot but of course the player looses its game which is why I can’t route it yet.
I haven’t turned the game on in over a month since I’m so disappointed and I love the theme, love spooky and what they created but yeah...

This lockup problem is not Spooky-specific. JJP and Stern have also had this lockup issue if the machines are left on 24/7 like on location. In their cases they both implemented a "maintenance reboot" that happens once a day to keep the machines from locking up rather than fixing the memory leak I believe is likely the root of the problem. I *think* Stern started this around Iron Maiden's release, but not 100% positive.

The common thread to the three manufacturers dealing with this? Linux.

Has anyone installed a shooter lane protector in their Rick and Morty? Other than switching out the flipper rubbers for colored ones, this is the only day one mod I'd like to do. I don't see R&M specific ones on any site... not even Cliffy's. If no one has done so already, I'll probably email him and ask what a custom set would run. In the mean time I'll probably just slap a little bit of mylar there.

I understand these aren't really needed for home use, but I am committed to bringing mine to the next few pinball shows if and when they happen. Shooter lane wear is one of the few things that annoy me.

Boatloads of smart TV's use Linux and they don't lockup.

Unboxed #175 5 days ago. Game is incredibly brutal, but it's such a blast. Just nailed the left inner loop and left orbit/garage combo...so fast...amazing feel. Leveled mine @ 6.9 yesterday as recommended...was at 6.5. Shots feel pretty well dialed in from the factory. For now, not going to pursue many of the tweaks mentioned in this thread. Until I get better at the game, it's hard to be critical of the shot precision/flow!

Really basic question (don't want to lift the PF or remove the glass for the answer). Is the saucer simply on a spring, or is there a mech that pokes it to bobble/bounce? Thx.

Quality of my game has been great ! And so has support!