Quoted from Manimal:He probably had a cabinet issue. Stern's way of addressing the weak cabinet joints was to send out a new set of decals. I have a friend with an LE set.
But why did they send SLE decals for an LE then?
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Quoted from Manimal:He probably had a cabinet issue. Stern's way of addressing the weak cabinet joints was to send out a new set of decals. I have a friend with an LE set.
But why did they send SLE decals for an LE then?
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:Same here... but Vireland was the one who suggested me that option, and it is indeed amazing! Thanks again Vireland!
Hold on, let me graph the awesomeness to make it more understandable...
Quoted from Sutol:Any of you guys know what's going on here. Problems with the clear coat going on? This is the worst insert.
Probably artifacts from when the PF was sanded down pre-clear to level everything.
Quoted from cooked71:Do you still get to select minor villains at the scoop when TV lit?
Yes, but the other minor villains are now disabled so you can't choose them.
Quoted from J85M:Was/is Lyman a fan of the TWD? He has to be a big fan of Batman 66, what with all the little intricacies he is putting into the code and making modes play out around episodes is brilliant, hoping that the Ice Cone trap is in the LCD footage as that is such a cool scene it seems criminal not to use it, Egghead egg fight footage is priceless.
What does everyone think the remaining minor villains could be/do? Mr Freeze was always destined to "Freeze" timers etc, I like the frenzy idea behind Egghead as he was such an over the top eggcentric (couldn't help myself) character a frenzy/hurry up seems fitting. But what do you guys think would work for the remaining villians?
Is he changing villains for each season? I thought they were set already (Mad Hatter, King Tut, Bookworm, Mr. Freeze, Egghead, Shame).
Quoted from cooked71:Just noticed that King Tutt and Mad Hatter were duplicated in the TV selection screen. Has that always been? Havent paid much attention in the past because they didn't mean anything. And Season 3 has nothing on the screen.
Edit: Those are the 6 minor villains drawn on the PF, so I guess that's what the minor villain modes will be.
Even though they're not on the playfield, it would be nice to have minor villains like The Clock King (lengthens timers?), Minerva (raise jackpots), The Puzzler (figure out shot order puzzles to get bonuses?), Dr. Cassandra Spellcraft (lots of spellbinding possibilities), Zelda the Great (magician/escape artist - lots of possibilities).
Female minor villains are just not there in the game. I say bump the extra Tut and put Zelda in season 1, then bump the tut in season 2 and put in the clock king (because he's a progression from the mad hatter who he's related to), then bump the extra mad hatter in Season 3 and put in Minerva. That'd be 9 unique villains and more variety. Plus there'd be some chicks in there.
Quoted from thundergod76:Yes. The setting is called Turntable Lag. The lower the number the faster the turntable will move.
It'd be nice if it adjusted by 10 instead of by 1.
Quoted from jsa:Just to be sure: All of you on .83 have backbox GI lights working, correct?
Work fine here.
Quoted from legionsoup:Been away for the weekend. Just got home, and about to install the new code. How is it? Anything I should know about before diving in?
Just install and enjoy.
Quoted from docquest:The episode LE's and gadget LE's were randomly mixed. Plenty of both types in US and overseas.
For the SLE owners Adam West was recorded saying their first name followed by "..get the batphone". Not sure if that is working in current code but If you look at pinball browser you can hear all the names. So if your name is :
al, alex, andrew, bob, brandy, brent, buddy, carl, charlie, chris, dan, david, dennis, dino, ed, eugene, frank, george, harold, jaqueline, jerry, jim, jimmy, joe, john, julian, justin, ken, kevin, lee, lloyd, marcus, mark, martin, micheal, mike, neil, paul, peter, rich, richard, robert, ron, saul, scott, steven, thomas, tim, todd, tony, travis, or victor
you could theoretically use pinball browser to extract the clip of your name and re-assign it to replace the sound effect when when the bat-phone is lit so you could hear Batman call you by name! Unfortunately no one with name name got an SLE so I'm out of luck on that one.
Yay! Victor is in there! Not a common name north of Mexico!
Quoted from FourFlippers:Updated to the latest code (0.83) and started having reset issues. Before I begin troubleshooting, is anyone else having reset issues since the last update?
Thanks,
Ed K.
Did you check your voltage at the wall? If that's okay, you might have a borderline power supply. The node boards are sensitive to drops and your power supply might be dropping low momentarily, causing a reset. If you have a multimeter with clips you can put it on your power supply output and record that with your phone while you're playing, then if there's a reset see if the reading dropped low right around then.
Quoted from Yelobird:The new Bat-Analyzer says code is to drop Soon! Until then, the New "Bat-Puter" set is complete and shipping Now. We have created a set of computer housings to finish off the Batcave look and hide those pesky wires. Complete with Bat identification logos (Batman Loved his label-maker!) and finished with a woodgrain rear panel (per Docs suggestion!). A 3 minute topside install and as always completely reversible. Kit comes with a Set of Batcomputers both "Batcomputer" and "Crime Analyzer" to match the playfield and complete the look. PM for interest, shipping Monday. $24.25 (free US shipping) for the complete set with decals mounted and mounting adhesive applied. Thanks as always for everyones interest!! Back to the bat-cave to wait for code from Commissioner Gordon!
The Mod Couple
I'd put a
! WARNING !
FALLING BALLS
Sign (or some kind of "ATTENTION" sign) on the back of the one that ends up over the ball lock when rotated. It would match the more traditional warning signage at the top of the Atomic Pile that isn't label-maker grade like Batman's usual.
Something like so...
Quoted from Yelobird:Lol, my wife would Love putting that sticker on everyone! lol How about "Holly-Balls Batman!"
Well, the show is loaded with double entendres, so...
Falling Balls, Ball Crossing, Ball Storage, Heavy Balls, etc. I think Falling Balls works best with the context, and would dress up that area.
Got the trim installed for the Bat Computer and Crime Analyzer installed - they look much better. Put the falling balls warning sign on the back of the Crime Analyzer because the woodgrain back there makes no sense (while it makes perfect sense on the back of the Bat Computer one that faces the phone).
Warning sign over ball lock installed:
sticker-batman-installed (resized).jpg
Stock, before I took off the woodgrain and added the sticker sign:
crime analyzer back (resized).jpg
Quoted from thundergod76:I think the wood grain ties in nicely with the TV and the whole '60s vibe. But I like your custom twist on it. Actually kinda funny.
On the side with the bat computer where the woodgrain on the back is next to the phone (ostensibly in Bruce's "den") the woodgrain makes total sense and looks great. But on the other side with the ball lock it just seemed weird and out of place since you're potentially in the bat cave, so a more industrial look made more sense to me (I used the sign, but the plain gray back of the plastic piece probably wouldn't be bad, either).
Quoted from Batman60:Anyone have any issues with a node board. I turned my game on and I get the following message, when the pin comes on the lower right side of the pin does not light?
Check the connections, otherwise you have succumbed to the vibration problem or power spike issue that the two service bulletins are out to try to prevent with zip ties, spacers, and capacitors.
Bulletins #189 and #190, here:
http://www.sternpinball.com/service-bulletins
Quoted from thundergod76:If this is the case it would just be a broken solder joint correct. With the service bulletin now we know what to look for.
But they're TINY on most points of that board. I think most of the resistors and diodes are surface mount, too.
Quoted from Batman60:great, so now what, is the board under warranty?
Since it's a known problem, likely to be covered. I assume you didn't do the service bulletins on it?
Quoted from MK6PIN:Freakin LOVE the "Falling Balls" sign on that side!!!!..please share where I can get one.....excellent
I posted a low-res version a few pages back:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-official-club-thread/page/142#post-4104202
Do you have Mylar and 467MP adhesive? PM me and I'll send you the high res one and you can print your own and make a sticker out of it using the mylar on the front of the printed paper and the 467MP on the back to stick it.
Quoted from hawkmoon:just updated new code,and noticed,when you hit the bat phone,and the magnet catches the ball,it doese'nt release the ball!! Game goes to ball search and then it releases!! Any body else get this with the new code??Also noticed more power to the shaker at times!!
Sounds like your balls are magnetized. It shouldn't do that.
Quoted from marksf123:Wow - well your pictures sure do help. This is what my game looks like. I am missing the round disk and the piece that holds it in place. The piece is not on the bottom of the cabinet and does not exist in my game. Now what do I do?
Get out your scissors, cool whip lid and Reynolds wrap and get to work!
Quoted from Pinzap:Sounds like I may have my work cut out for me in finding an LE. I’m not ready to purchase yet, but if anyone has an LE that they’re thinking of getting rid of in 2017, please PM me.
Pretty sure that will only get harder now that the game is finally appearing from the clay.
Quoted from melumga:I really wanted an LE but was too slow so had to settle for a premium, though I was early enough to get an Adam West-signed card in mine. I believe he signed 500 cards for Stern. As there are 80 SLEs and 240 LEs, that means I got one of the 180 premiums that were signed by da man.
Only 50SLEs in the US is pretty rare, but those other 30SLEs scattered across the world is even more rare on a per country basis. I wish we knew where the 30 SLEs went that were shipped overseas.
Quoted from pascal-pinball:My friend in Belgium has one (still NIB)
That wasn't SO hard. We have over 30% of the 30 SLEs shipped out of the US accounted for already!
2 Canada
1 UK
1 Belgium (NIB still)
1 Austria (Year 1973 SLE)
1 Queensland
1 Perth
1 Sydney (maybe)
Quoted from Hasi:SLE 1973 is at my basement in Austria. <3
We have almost 25% of the overseas SLEs accounted for, thanks! If people keep chiming in with ones they have overseas, maybe we can fill in most of the list!
Quoted from MattS:On the ones overseas, do yours say Batman 30?
It would be interesting to know what proportion of the 30 overseas were the "stern 30" and the "batman 50".
Quoted from Concretehardt:BM66 question, I am buying a HUO BM66 and will most likely have to have the game shipped. My question is has any one seen any cases of cabinet splitting on this game? If I have the game shipped and it goes thru STI it would have to go legs on shipped, also does BM 66 have the updated “Williams style” cabinet corner brackets?
BM'66 was before "splitgate" got going so no B/W style braces inside.
Quoted from Concretehardt:What screws did you use for installing those brackets?
These wood screws:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M03T9SM
With Titebond 3 to set the threads:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YQ3KA
Quoted from thundergod76:I used #10 hex head screws with the Titebond 3 but Vireland's suggestion is better.
Took me a while to track down deep thread actual wood screws. Been happy with them. Upgraded three machines leg brackets using them.
Eyeball it first on the edge of the cab with the bracket and screw, and if it looks to close to coming out the other side, add a washer when you install.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:The 3/4" length looked a little too close to poking through the cab for my comfort so I used 5/8"L screws and they worked nicely. If 3/4" works then great, maybe I just chickened out
With the thickness of the bracket they didn't poke out for me, but if you're concerned, a washer will provide a cushion.
Quoted from MapleSyrup:I’m personally leaving Villain stacking OFF. Isn’t that exactly what happens once you reach Villain Escape?! All 4 modes Stack, and you’re battling them all at once. It seems strange to have them stack before that? That’s my reasoning anyway.
Now that there's actually stuff to DO in the game, Villain stacking isn't really needed.
Quoted from 82Trooper:any idea when the next code update is expected? That will generate some more excitement!!
Initially was supposed to be now, but I believe it got pushed off to early Jan.
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:really? did someone post that here?
http://www.sternpinball.com/community/stern-of-the-union-address-december-2017
Actual wording is "around the new year" which, to me, says January.
Quoted from pascal-pinball:Are there cliffy's for the scoops?
Yes. It's slightly different than the original BTDK.
Quoted from Batman60:I had to tighten the poles on my atomic pile the other day, they were loose. I snugged them pretty good when I installed them, I wonder if the table spinning and all the play there is causing them to loosen up?
Locktite.
Quoted from pascal-pinball:but there are no BM66 protectors on his site...
Email with what you want and he'll send you a paypal invoice.
Quoted from Yelobird:Here’s to hoping Lyman’s New Years resolution was to complete Batman 66 code to start the year fresh!!! Fingers crossed and still 4 days of vacation left!!!
Off question to the expert software extractor guru’s. Is the SLE code drop the same as the others or does (will) that contain triggers to excecute the personal name call out in time? So wish one of you software magicians could figure out a way to make that code executable on other machines ...
I don't think Stern is off all week. I had a warranty issue and chas replied yesterday, so they're definitely working at least part of the week.
Quoted from Yelobird:So with that said if someone buys a second hand SLE it will forever call out someone else’s name? Sounds like a date gone wrong lol.
The audio of the names is in the ROM, but hasn't been implemented yet so we don't know, but I'm pretty sure there will be an option to turn that on/off.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:Why? Never had airball there.
If you're waxed up good a strong shot to that ramp can make it fly off the wireform. Stern released a warranty plastic cover that works fine, too.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a BM66 premium next month. Is there anything i should get right away to tap the potential of this game. Been reading the group for a little bit great community
If it's used make sure it has the ramp kit and deflector installed. Post that, get the mini-spotlight mod for the upper right corner and the replacement Atomic Pile kit. Makes a HUGE difference visually.
Quoted from frolic:I agree. In the beginning when the game had hardly anything going on, there was some sense is trying to stack the villains as an extra challenge, but nowadays I wouldn't bother.
Exactly.
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:Thanks! What size screws are people using? I'd hate to go through the cab, yikes!
As for the balls, perhaps. I ordered some new ones so we'll see...I've heard others say that it catches theirs @ about 50%...Still seems like a glitch they need to work on...
The B/W leg plate is pretty thick, so using 3/4" worked fine for me and gives maximum grab.
Best actual wood screws I've found for this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M03T9SM
(check total depth on cabinet edge with leg plate against cabinet edge and hold screw up to it. If you're concerned about it poking through, use a washer with each screw)
Use Titebond 3 in each hole
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YQ3KA
Quoted from ronaldvg:After the update to 0.85, my backglass leds do not function anymore, not in service mode and not in normal. I checked the brightness percentages and the cabling. Cabling goes directly to the CPU board so cannot do much there. I did unplug and reconnect them. I also took all power of the machine for 10 minutes.
Premium, LE or SLE? Might be relevant...
Quoted from MK6PIN:The B/W ones Terry sells at Pinballife. I went w vireland approach using 3/4" course thread screws and tightbond glue....man make sure to tape your drillbit to proper depth if using this length...even w bracket, your almost all the way through....everything nice and snug now ( my cab was never split, but decided to play it safe)...
Since those are legit wood screws, you should only have to go in about halfway if you're pre-drilling. Better safe than sorry.
I really like having these brackets on, but it's lame that we have to add them after the fact, especially given the cost of even the Pros these days and the fact that Stern is cheaping out on even the cabinet wood now.
Quoted from melumga:Forgive the newbie question. Was playing today (after upgrading to .85 code and playing all last night) and the game shut down in the middle of play and now won’t turn back on. When turning on the power switch the LEDs on the CPU board come on for a brief moment and then fade out after a few seconds. Nothing on the LCD screen, no lights on the playfield, no noise at all.
I’ve tested the main power fuse and it’s ok. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks!
Grab a multimeter and check the power output from the power supply in the backbox with the power switch on.
Quoted from melumga:Ok, i’m guessing I need to test on this connector (pictured). Any idea on which sockets on the connector I need to hook the multimeter to? Like I said...newbie. Thanks.
Page 28 has the power supply outputs, but it looks like its for the pro so you'll probably have little guessing
Quoted from Concretehardt:Ok apparently I have no channel changing ability, my action button on the lock bar works for launching the ball and using gadgets but when I hold it down nothing happens no matter if I have just started a mode or have just plunged my first ball. What am I doing wrong, is there a setting in the menu to turn channel changing on? I am running .85 code
Either you don't have two modes running to change between or your action button is intermittent. Have you tested it in switch test to see if holding it keeps it solid in switch test mode?
Quoted from Yelobird:I see your game is missing the free Stern clear shield over the ramp. I strongly suggest you give it a try as it’s free and it also helps with that round pad you have in the back of the ramp to eliminate vibration. The kit includes a firm mount to beef it up. Oh and it’s free.
If he's missing that, he's probably also missing the stainless diverter that goes near the bottom of the plastic that covers the GADGET area...also a free fix.
Quoted from Concretehardt:So to get the free fixes from Stern can I just email Chas? What exactly should I ask for? Thanks in advance for any help.
You just want the left ramp kit and the stainless deflector for the bottom of the plastic that covers the gadget targets. The deflector is pictured installed at the bottom of Batgirl's feet in the picture I've attached.
While you're at it, ask for the kits for SB 189 and SB 190 if you haven't already to update your node boards so they don't die or create phantom switch hits.
stainless-diverter (resized).jpg
Quoted from thundergod76:You're definitely in the minority.
I am too, then. Don't like the smaller 3D printed phone. The rotisserie is already kind of a cluttered mess and adding a bust and mini phone makes it even more cluttered. The effect is not great.
Quoted from MK6PIN:Ok.....if I break down and buy a Batcopter, what was the consensus on the best version? Starting to like the look.....thanks, fellow Batfans!!!!....mark
The hallmark ornament is the best by far.
Quoted from MK6PIN:Is that the same as the eaglemoss, or even better?
It's the one in the post here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-official-club-thread/page/158#post-4163473
Has a mini batman and robin in the cockpit. Construction is much nicer, too.
Quoted from spandol:So, I got a premium and I have to say, with Lyman on the code and where it is, this game is going to rate up there with TWD and MET for me. The only thing that is bad is the left orbit. I searched and moved my Catwoman wire more underneath so it isn't in the way, but I never get a smooth shot. Sometimes it seems to hit the end of the ball guide, which is on the right of the ball, further up the loop. Do you guys get this? Is there anything else to try? Most of the other shots feel smooth but that one just doesn't. I hesitate moving the blue bumper because there seems to be enough room for the ball, but its just not smooth.
Thanks in advance.
Moving the blue bumper to the inside helped a LOT, IMO.
Quoted from MK6PIN:Looks great!!!..price is right too...thanks!!!!
Wow, I didn't realize they had clearanced them to $7.50! I think I paid like $20 and it was worth it at that price!
Quoted from TKDalumni:How and where did you install this
It's in the picture of that linked post. Just replaced the stock batcopter over the left ramp return with the much nicer hallmark batcopter.
Quoted from Yelobird:Too funny. That must be the “Shrimp on the barby Episode” model.
"Now THAT'S a knife" episode.
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:How'd you get the copter to stay there? Glue gun?
Are you talking about the SLE style batcopter mounting over the left ball return?
Here's a picture of the wire it's mounted with and how it connects to the bottom of the better Hallmark ornament batcopter (copied from the way Stern did their cheaper batcopter).
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:ah ok cool. where'd you find the metal wire?
This was on an SLE, so it came with it. I was just replacing the cheap Stern batcopter with the better-looking Hallmark one.
Wouldn't be hard to make a wire mount just like this, though. The wire gauge is like a wire hanger, so a wire hanger, tin snips, and some needle nose pliers and you could make one, then two zip ties to mount the helicopter to it.
Quoted from Concretehardt:So I will only need 1 of the capacitor do-dads and the one is a spare?
Two per pin since you need to do two node boards in each pin. I think he got a kit with one sent (which was useless since it needs two) and when he got the new kit it had two so he has a spare now.
Quoted from thundergod76:I dropped my KISS playfield also. The newer Sterns are notoriously easy to pull too far out and off the rails.
Yep, really makes me appreciate the 90's B/W playfield mechanisms. The best ones made so far.
Quoted from thundergod76:I thought BM66 Cliffys were the same as Batman TDK Cliffys. What other ones does he have for BM66?
The scoop is just SLIGHTLY different. If you use the BM66 ones, the edges will bow a bit.
Quoted from chet218:What kind of modes do you guys think will be added to the game to make it 1.00? I have been playing the game and love it, but was wondering if there will be another wizard mode added? Any goals/benefits to completing all 3 seasons or how you will beat 3 seasons, etc.
They need to make a bat-turn easter egg hidden version where Gomez pops up and says one thing, then when you hit the spinner, he turns around and says the opposite thing.
Quoted from Pfunk237:Two weeks
Two face, actually. Too bad he wasn't in the original series...
Quoted from Pfunk237:Actually I think Gomez is a very nice guy, and created some of the best video games of my childhood.
He might be a GREAT guy to have a drink with, I assume so. I've never heard he's a dick. However, his relationship with the truth/reality is just not very good. He's proven it over and over the last two years.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Got a post number?
If you look at the Topic Index (Key Post) list at the top of the topic list below the picture gallery, it will often have the post you're looking for with a direct link.
Quoted from hank527:Anyone know where I can get these?
Castro district in San Francisco, Greenwich Village in NY, or certain parts of Atlanta near Elton John's home. Be prepared to pay a heavy price, though.
Quoted from pascal-pinball:can anyone give me the part number of those capacitor kits?
thx
Part numbers and instructions are in the service bulletins.
Service Bulletin 189
http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/service-bulletins/service-bulletin-189-core-node-stabilization/2235/Stern-SB189.pdf
Service Bulletin 190
http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/service-bulletins/service-bulletin-190-core-node-capacitor-service/2236/Stern-SB190revB.pdf
Quoted from Georgeh:Anyone having issues with a week intermittent left flipper , if so how can it be fixed
KISS does this when the flipper EOS switch contact is adjusted wrong or intermittent.
Quoted from RebelGuitars:Anyone seen these small figures? All the 10 villains from the game are available. They're by Heroclix.
Why are they climbing their Atomic Pile when the ladder's right there?
Quoted from RebelGuitars:Just to bother you..
More mundane than I expected. I thought maybe Robin dropped acid the Joker spiked his candy with, was tripping in the batcave and Batman was trying to catch up to him to get him to safety. A lost episode playing out in your machine.
Quoted from Yelobird:Ok now I did it. Perfectly working game and now??? I did the .86 software update finally and all went smooth, confirmed update complete but now when I reboot the machine it says "node 24 not found"! You can hear the boards clicking on and off a few times and the game does finally light up but my guess is thats not a good sign??? Anyone have any advice on this. I sent an email to Chas already though I was praying this was a simply jiggle this wire kind of error. Yes I did both capacitor and zip tie update repairs. Any help or guidance would be Greatly appreciated!! Batman Down!
Looks like Node 24 is the TV. Is the TV on? Check the connection at the TV (CN2) and also at Node 10 (below the turntable) connector CN4. If that doesn't work, maybe delete the update and re-download and re-install a new one from a different USB drive in case the file you installed or USB drive you used was corrupted.
Quoted from docquest:Here's a pic of old vs new LCD. Maybe the addition of the nylon washers was enough of a change to bump the revision from A to B. I'm assuming current machines use the B rev.
The screened board revision didn't change, but they may have changed the programming on one of the chips, which wouldn't affect the screened number, but would change the board revision overall. Metallica magnet boards were like that.
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:Doesn’t the game cycle through main villains? How do you start penguin each time?
You pick the villain you want to play by making the shots to start that villain.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Pinstadiums are a must. Set with blue 100% white 68%. It gets brighter
You should be careful with blue light. It can damage retinas permanently with something that looks like macular degeneration.
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:ok, I set it to 200 (no 100 on mine) and it reads .065 which I assume is 6.5....
Time to get a decent multimeter. Frys has the less expensive fluke like these for less than $100 pretty often (usually $80ish):
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:Neither of my meters have a 100 OHM setting. They both have ranges from 200 to 2M. In fact, looking at a bunch online I dont see any with a 100 ohm setting...?
I leave mine in auto-ranging unless I need a high-resolution measurement.
Quoted from docquest:Just started my download it says 1 hour 52 minutes to go.
Must be a lot of people downloading now.
Nice to also see they are still sending out the Commissioner Gordon emails to let you know new code is available.
You should check your internet routing. It sounds like there's some issue. I just started one and it estimated 20 minutes and is 10% done already on a 100mbps line.
Quoted from MK6PIN:I'm not convinced that many changed hands, as there just weren't that many made (LE's, SLE's)....
I know of one weekend recently when 3 SLEs and an LE changed hands. That's 6% of the domestic SLEs changing hands in just a single weekend. They're moving around.
Quoted from BSavage:Anybody had the machine reboot on bookworm? I was 700M+ into the game and almost done and it was in this mode, machine froze and then rebooted. We need a better trap rather than REBOOT! Could you at least have it go to game save if the code freaks out instead of reboot? UGHHHHH! And I was going to compliment how much better the entire game play is now on .85.......
Possible this is the known issue with spike machine power supplies and not software. If the spike power supply voltage drops a little too low (usually in a multiball or some other high-load situation), it has been known to reboot spontaneously. Check your voltage output and crank the pot in the power supply to give yourself a smidge more cushion (you usually have 10% tolerance to work with) to prevent this.
Quoted from JimB:Not so sure that explains it. I played the same way for many games on the last two updates and zero reboots but now .87 has failed 3 times for me.
More stuff happening with the new software, so maybe slightly increased load at specific times. If your power supply is on the edge, it doesn't take much to trip the watchdog and that node watchdog circuit is (too) sensitive.
Quoted from Scotty_K:OK silly question...
I'm thinking of purchasing a NIB Premium. Having never bought NIB before, would I need to get it through my local distributor, like in the old days, or am I free to get it anywhere I like?
Get it wherever you want.
Quoted from Trekkie1978:I got to a mode tonight where there were fireworks or something similar on the screen.
What mode is that?
I think that's the one where they are fighting in the dark. It has been confusing from day one.
Quoted from legionsoup:So I downloaded the new code (0.87) and finally had time to update my machine today. Everything looked good. Downloaded fine. Opened file. Put it on a usb. Same as always.
But when I put the USB in the machine to update, once you hit the "Select" button once, and then a 2nd time to begin the update, it just hangs without starting the update.
I've never missed an update, and I have never had an issue with the update. Tried 2 different USB sticks with the same result (both of them have worked with Batman 66 in the past). Anyone else with the same issue? Any ideas?
Note: after a while, I turned the machine off, removed the usb, and turned it back on, and it plays the 0.86 code.
There's a note about this update not unpacking on Win7 machines properly with the built in windows zip extractor. Unpack with free 7-zip program instead and try again.
Quoted from Concretehardt:Or download on a Mac, I had the same issue and downloaded the code on my wife’s Mac and it worked fine.
Given that more people can download 7-zip than are likely to have both a PC and a Mac at their disposal, I went with the numbers.
Quoted from Batman60:So, what kind of wax should I use on my 66 premium playfield ? I saw some stuff called Millwax, but was told it has silicone and to avoid it.
This will last you a long time:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LOP5E4
Quoted from hawkmoon:Thanks,everybody!! This is a mystery!
So it registers fine in switch test?
Quoted from rs812:My BM66 Prem has a December 20, 2017 build date and has no corner brackets. My SW Prem, however, was built exactly 4000 serial numbers before the BM66 Prem, and has the corner brackets. Makes no sense to me why stern wouldn’t put the corner brackets in the BM66 Prem, also.
Batman '66 was a weird case where the Premium is essentially the Pro, the LE is a Premium, and the SuperLE is an LE. Maybe they decided to treat it like a Pro and not bracket it.
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:Yeah I kinda get how the premium 66 cost more than a conventional pro (kinda) but the le and sle was a money grab plain and simple. It worked. I’m sure they sold them all.
Interestingly enough my 66 premium feels flimsy compared to my kiss premium.
Because they had moved to crappier cabinet and playfield wood by BM'66. KISS Prem/LE (dunno about the pro) has denser cabinet and PF wood.
Quoted from 82Trooper:So while playing today, this came down the right side flipper lane.....any idea where it lives?
Lens off one of the LEDs, usually in the slingshot area. Check to see if they all have their caps.
Quoted from kidchrisso:I have a full set of SLE and LE decals....I'm thinking about slamming them on a couple premiums, thoughts?
Unless you have the correct factory toppers for each, it'd be a waste, IMO.
Quoted from Concretehardt:Thanks for the well wishes guys! You are all my Pinside family, long story short I had an episode 2 days ago and my left hand locked into a fist and my arm went numb I went to the hospital and had mri and Ct scan. It turns out that I have a have a tumor of some sort the size of a lemon on the top right side of my Brain... you can imagine my surprise, shock, terror when I saw the pictures. My wife is a battle hardened cancer survivor so I have good support. It sounds like I will be having brain surgery soon to remove the mass.. the doctors think it is operable. I am 49 years old and don’t want to be greedy but had hoped someday to dance with my daughter at her wedding (she is 16) and meet my grandkids someday.
I believe god has a plan for us all just trying to make sense of this right now.
Now you guys get back to talking about BM and I will power thru this, heck maybe Lyman will have us to 1.0 code by the time I thru my surgeries
Wow, sorry to hear this! Good luck with the surgery, and keep us posted!
Quoted from Robertstone0407:I can support habit trails powder coat cause it will last the life of the game. RAMPS take to much impact and the ball tends to wear in and leave trails and wear marks. It may take awhile but it will happen, anodizing ramps will wear too. You can combat this by waxing them regularly but my suggestion is if you anodize, get an epoxy coating. Heres a picture of super plum ive done for refernce
All the powdercoating I've ever done is extremely durable. I did the stainless ramps on The Shadow around 15 years ago and they're still going strong with only very light ball trails (probably less than if I had left it stainless).
Quoted from PinBalt:I am getting the brackets on Pinball life but what type of screws did you use to install?
Mine just started - it was fine months ago and reading this made me wonder
Here's the link to the screws. These are actual wood screws and not sheet metal screws. Check the depth against the top edge of the exposed cabinet first with the bracket and screw to make sure these won't poke through the other side (they shouldn't), but if you're concerned, add a washer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M03T9SM
Definitely use the Titebond III on the screws before inserting them to lock everything down:
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:With a B66 premium on it's way, do I have the risk of a splitting cabinet too? Or from what date is this problem fixed? (@rotordate: you know your build date by chance?).
Cheap insurance just to install the B/W brackets with wood screws and titebond III and call it good.
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:I'm not so sure about that. The splitting starts at the top at the top of the pin and like RotorDave said stops at the top of the corner block (above where the B/W brackets would go).
But the torque runs up the leg and through the leg bolts, not the other way around. The top is cracking because of the torque coming from the legs below. Bracketing them to arrest that will stop the splitting up the cab. None of the ones I've reinforced have had even a small crack, and we move them a lot.
Quoted from JimB:Wonder why they removed stacking? Reboots?
It's kind of unnecessary now that there's an actual, you know, game to play.
Quoted from Concretehardt:Holy bat scar fellas.. quick update on my condition they removed my brain tumor and I woke up still thinking about pinball so I’m still me. My head hurts like hell operation was a success now the wait for pathology reports on the tumor (scary). If bad news I’m ready for a fight! If you have any extra prayers please send them my way.
Those Tyvek Samurai suits they give you for surgery are weird, no? That was one of the strangest things I encountered when I had surgery.
Good luck, and take it easy!
Quoted from cooked71:Plus there is talk of a new MMr with larger AFMR style screen down the track.
I thought that was being discussed as an add-on to existing MMr machines?
Quoted from rlslick:Hey Guys, hoping someone can help me out. Just updated new code on my Premium. When powering on the screen shows that it can not locate node board number 8. Also noticed that half of my playfield lighting is not on. Anyone run into this issue and or know how to fix it?
Appreciate your help in advance.
Thank you,
Art
Did you do the service bulletin on this machine? You either have a loose cable, or the diode has come loose from vibration (which is what the service bulletin is made to fix).
Node board preventative service bulletin:
http://www.sternpinball.com/service-bulletins/service-bulletin-189-core-node-stabilization
Capacitor service bulletin:
http://www.sternpinball.com/service-bulletins/service-bulletin-190-core-node-capacitor-service
Quoted from rlslick:Thanks guys...tried some of the suggestions provided but not having any luck. Re-downloaded the code, re-installed the code, checked all wire connections, checked to see that the node boards had power (they do) and still nothing. I’ll send a note to Stern support in the morning and request for the two kits. My build was April 17, 2017 and by looking underneath the hood i don’t see that a capasitor was fitted before the problem went viral. Appreciate everyone’s help. Hope to get back up and running soon so I can enjoy the new code update. Thanks!
If the Node 8 board diode has come loose, the kit won't help you now. You'll probably have to swap out the node board.
Quoted from taz:I haven't made the change yet, but many others have discussed it in this thread. On the outside of both sides of the left ramp at the ramp entry there are blue pads. The change is to move the blue pad on the outside left of the ramp to the inside of the ramp creating a little bit more room for the left orbit. I plan to get around to that as soon as I do some preventive shoring up of my cabinet.
If you move the little zip tie a bit, rotating it to the inside, so there's less cable on the outside left edge of the ramp, that seems to help, too.
Quoted from Concretehardt:On a side note I am probably going to have to think about a different hairstyle.
Congrats on the great news, and yeah, the purple ink isn't working with that hair...
Quoted from docquest:The code somehow knows when its an SLE. Maybe the main CPU was programmed with the machine serial number at the factory?
Or maybe the SLE-specific node board is the indicator to the code.
Quoted from docquest:So who is gonna be the first one to give a mini code review on the TPF machines with the new code on them?
Better yet, who is going to reboot to get the code version?
Quoted from Sethman:I think they decided to glue on every single BM66 toy from every kit ever released.
All those crappy-looking toys and they didn't even install the "real" atomic pile.
Quoted from TimO:I apologize if this is a newb question but what does the Novelty setting in utilities do? I installed it expecting hijinx in the call outs but didn’t notice anything different.
Usually it's just another set of presets like Easy, Hard, Director's Cut, etc. Novelty usually cuts out extra balls and free games and maybe some other stuff. I never use it, so not 100% sure. I haven't loaded it in years.
Quoted from TimO:Ah! You’re right. That’s exactly what it’s doing. I guess that’s handy for turnover on location. Still don’t understand why it’s called “novelty”.
No free games and no extra balls used to be a novelty, maybe? Not anymore in the 21st century with $9,000 location pins for $1/play.
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:Any tips to make the game harder...?
I adjusted my tv target settings and lock settings from default extra easy to easy.
Outlanes are at their widest. Perhaps a smaller rubber ring at the posts?
default settings 3 ball + extra's... 4Billion+ game with twice Batusi and twice super villain
ps: at 50 (or 60+) combo's you see the batcycle
Playfield angle?
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:I’m checking online but haven’t found it yet... any place recommended to find the shirt please fellas?
Thank you
Sounds like maybe a Kohl's exclusive and sold out online?
Quoted from J85M:Funny how I have never liked toppers yet the BM66 topper was one of the reasons I went for the LE, love it, one of if not the best topper ever made for a pin.
It's second place to the awesome AfMr topper, but BM'66 may move up to first if they ever get around to integrating it better into the game. If they don't and leave it with the extremely basic functionality it has now, it's a huge waste of a node board.
Quoted from pinmike:Which Batman model is the one that has Catwoman on the side art on the cabinet?
Both Prem and LE since they made mistakes early on and put it on the wrong models. Dunno how many, though. Pics were posted.
Quoted from twenty84:Early pre-production pics had the prem with the cat woman on the side, but I've never actually seen a premium that was made this way. Has anyone seen an actual premium game like this?
Pretty sure there were some pics posted of Batgirl on the head when it shouldn't have been. Some got art blades that shouldn't have, too.
Quoted from rotordave:Had an interesting issue last night.
Turned on bm66 - no sound. Oh dear.
Rebooted - still no sound. Pulled line cord out, left for a minute - no sound.
Hmmmm. All plugs are present and correct. Amp or software maybe?
Decided to do a factory reset. Bye bye Danni’s 7b high score haha. Long shot, but no change.
Right - I’ll install new code, that may fix it.
Downloaded code. Went back to machine two hours later to update the code, switch machine on and sound is there, 100% working. No need for the update.
Weird.
rd
Interrupting background node board update or intermittent node board problem? When you left it alone it had time to do it?
Quoted from iloveplywood:Is the code in BM66 complete enough to hold up in a 2 pin line up? Trying to decide between BM66, DI, and AFMR. I love love the theme of BM66 and enjoyed the shots when I played it a bit on location. I just want to make sure it's not a particularly shallow pin code-wise (it doesn't seem to be). Anyway, this thread has been great for picking up info on the game. Thanks everyone!
If Addams is your other pin, I'd go with AfMr or BM'66. DI is just too Lawlory to have two of them side by side in a two pin house.
Quoted from KLR2014:Are there known problems with installing a shaker motor in this game ? I understood from a reseller that stern advised not too
Old news. When Spike first came out, third party shaker motors were causing a problem and Stern issued a SB warning not to use them. The Pinball life one works fine. Just make sure you order the one specifically for Spike games.
Quoted from Sutol:Finally got around to doing the lighting mod on yelobird Atomic pile.
I went with sterns flasher out of the old pile for the bottom and then used mk6pin idea and used the round flasher from hooked on pinball for the top.
In person it looks amazing and I'm really pleased I took the effort.
Thanks to yelobird,thundergod76 and mk6pin as I would never of been able to attempt it never mind do it without their help.Cheers guys.
Pic is with just sterns flasher in on the left and both installed on the right.
I bet it's a lot more eye-catching now! Lots brighter in the pic! The atomic pile mod is literally the best mod for BM'66. No idea why Stern didn't make something approximately like it from the beginning, but glad we have yelobird to fix their (big) mistake.
Quoted from BrewinBombers:Small Problem:
I installed the chrome candy lockdown bar emblem and it looks fantastic. But now, My gadget button doesn't activate the gadget switch. The added thickness seems to prevent the button from reaching the switch enough. I've tightened it down a bunch, but that plastic button worries me a bit. Did other folks have any challenges like this?
Yes, I've tested the switch and the switch itself works just fine.
You can screw something to the end of the button post to make it a tad longer.
Quoted from txstargazer3:Any hints/techniques for installing the side art blades on BM66? Those are some tight clearances! Not sure of the best way of doing this. It looks like it could be a disaster if they stick in the wrong place.
Wet method. DO NOT USE DRY METHOD. Wet method is very forgiving and you won't tear the blades.
You don't need to buy anything. Soapy water in a spray bottle is plenty. Then something to act as a squegee to get the excess water and bubbles out.
Here's a tutorial of the wet method (note that is NOT windex in that bottle!):
Quoted from Ben1981:Hey guys,
I‘m about to pull the trigger on a Batman premium, just need some more confirmation
I recently changed my whole collection, sold TOM, RFM, WCS94 and now have a TNA and an Iron Maiden Premium coming. Does Batman complement those two in your opinion? It is considered a rather long playing game, isn‘t it? Can‘t find a good video with the newest code, did the latest update change gameplay a lot?
I played on location for a few hours about half a year ago and always had a blast, like the theme also.
It‘s just straining my budget a bit... So please help me spend money more easily by telling me in a few words why a small collection profits from having Batman66
Thnx, looking forward to join the club
Iron Maiden is so different it goes with everything. Batman '66 has finally come to the point it should have been at release 18 months ago. Still kind of a clunky shooter, but at least it's fun and challenging to play now. DEFINITELY get the essential Atomic Pile mod as well as the two computer back mods that clean up the wiring on the back side of the bat computer (a "falling balls" warning sticker for the one above the ball lock is recommended, too. ) If you can pick up the Hallmark batcopter for cheap, do that, too. It's way better than the Stern one.
I'd say that combination of three pins you'll have is pretty great for a small home collection.
Quoted from spandol:I'm not a mod guy, but the Atomic Pile mod is one to get. It's not cheap, but I love it. Makes that area look like an Atomic Pile should.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1080-the-mod-couple/01402-batman-66-custom-atomic-pile-mod-kit-lighted
Yeah, the stock "atomic pile" is an embarrassment, especially considering the price Stern put on this machine in all flavors.
Quoted from drummerboy71:They work, it is anounced that the second ball is locked and the machine gives me a third..... But when this third draines...... the machine goes searching.....
I'd still check the all three switches in the left lock lane. If they're intermittent (arm not down enough to stay in constant contact) you can get the behavior you're describing.
Quoted from drummerboy71:When it drains, machine still thinks that the ball is somehow in play (so does not go in EOB bonus) and starts searching......
If you do the ball trough clear in the diagnostics are all switches reliably reporting the balls in the trough as they cycle through?
Quoted from frankmac:The magnet for the batphone lock on to my ball and does not release.
The pin goes into ball search and I have to nudge the machine almost to the point of tilt for it to release.
Any advice????
Did you replace the balls? Sounds like you have balls in it that are magnetized now.
Quoted from PinsOnly:Here's mine, looks like yours. Game was built on January 31 2018
No, yours still has a core in the middle surrounded by metal (2 parts). His is a complete single metal disc.
Quoted from Concretehardt:Hey that pretty trick...
My first thought was "I need one of those" when I saw it!
Quoted from TimO:Does this look right to anybody who’s had a good look at the board inside the turntable? Should that... bridge?...jumper? Whatever be standing up that high. It almost looks like that bent leg isn’t even connecting to the board. I can’t get at it without taking a whole bunch of stuff apart.
Is it bent, or broken? Can't tell from the picture. Bent, ok. Broken (leg not soldered to board), not ok.
Quoted from TimO:That’s the problem. I can’t tell without taking the turntable apart (a frightening prospect). If the turntable rotated just one more turn clockwise so the board was facing starboard, I could get at it or at least tell if it’s connected.
If you can zoom in and get a non-blurry picture, it might be enough to tell. Do you have an iphone you're using for this? If so, aim at the transistor and zoom in, then hold your finger on the transistor on the screen for a little while and it will do an AE (aperature) lock and focus lock on the transistor instead of the auto focus which is locking on the chips in front of the transistor. It might also help if you put a flashlight behind it for contrast.
Quoted from TimO:Thanks! I’ll try that next time I open it up. I was getting so stressed out, I had to button it up and take a break. Am I right in assuming this is just the sort of thing that would disable the Batphone and multiball release?
A transistor with a leg not making contact can cause any number of weird behaviors, including that.
Quoted from TimO:I was unaware of that one. The only service bulletin I’ve seen since my machine left the factory (Feb 2018) is the one about shaker motors.
Just check this link from time to time to see if any new ones that apply to you have been added:
Quoted from ASOA:Looking for a Batman 66 LE Topper. I have a NIB Batman 66 Stern topper a value of 400.00 Plus I will give 1,000 CASH
That's a whopping total of 1,400 for the topper.
Please call if you are interested in my offer.
Thank You,
Jonathan Demare
Amusement Services of America
954-226-2107
Basic Stern topper COSTS $400, but is nowhere near $400 of value. It's pretty crap, especially compared to the "real" topper you're seeking. It will be interesting to see if you get a bite on this.
Quoted from ASOA:OK 1,400 CASH. I will sell or repurpose the other nib topper.
Thank you for all of your help.
Just trying to help. I don't think an LE or SLE owner is going to part with arguably the best part of their machine for $1400. It would depreciate the machine more than that by not having it.
Now, alternate translites from one of the SLE owners, THAT I think you could swing for relative peanuts. But the topper acquisition is going to be a tough row to hoe. But if you succeed, by all means, post that you did!
Quoted from ASOA:There are some pin owners that could care less about a topper. I happen to be on the other side of that spectrum. I need a topper on everyone of my games. If there is a person out there that would part with it. I'm over here. Just let me know.
Again I think spending that much on a topper is absolutely crazy However I think that kind of crazy got me into this hobby.
Honestly, your best bet is selling your Prem and just buying a HUO LE with the topper already on it. That will likely cost you a bit over $2k more, but it's a sure thing.
Quoted from Texasff78:I believe my topper post is the one you are referring to. I would be interested in the same price range. The node board that drives the topper would have to be included at that price. You guys may be right that no one will part with theirs. I do know that a couple of people on the boards have lucked out and gotten a topper from someone who didn’t have space for it in their game room or were just willing to sell it. Just added the SLE decals to my game today and want to finish it out with the trim, topper, and as many other parts as I can find.
What's the point of having a fake SLE if you can't run SLE code (including the eventual SLE-specific topper code)? I believe that identity is coming from the system board that is flashed at the factory. It definitely "knows" it's supposed to be an SLE. Not sure how you can finish your project out with that hurdle.
Quoted from docquest:What is this SLE specific topper code you speak of? Enquiring minds want to know.
It doesn't exist yet, AFAIK. Assuming it's coming once they get the code to 1.0 for the game itself, probably on the 2 year anniversary, which is coming up in just 5 months.
Quoted from docquest:I'd think whatever they do for the SLE topper could work for the LE topper as well with optional bat-signal.
No idea until they actually release SLE-specific topper code like they're supposed to. They're only about 2 years behind schedule on the main game, so I'm not holding my breath for the topper code.
Quoted from Concretehardt:Good luck finding an LE under 10k! I looked for a while and ran wanted adds with no success for a while and that was last November when the code was showing promise but still had a ways to go. One of my buddy’s had a modded out LE and I was finally able to talk him out of it last December.
There's one in the archive for $9800 recently that wasn't sold. It's not the only one that's been available for under $10k recently.
Quoted from J85M:Didn’t your guy sell the SLE that you had an interest in dude? Sure I remember seeing you post the BM66 you where involved with was sold, if so what did your guy get for his SLE?
I'm not sure he'd want me sharing, but it was a trade+cash and he didn't lose money on the machine. If he'd kept it another year he probably could have squeezed out another couple grand as the game finally comes together and the rarity kicked in harder, but he's not unhappy with how it worked out.
Quoted from Trekkie1978:Been a month since the last update. Hopefully next one is any day.
Don't make me graph it for you...
Quoted from AdeptJR:So, just go buy some cheap corner brackets at Home Depot, and install on each corner inside the cabinet?
Not recommended. Do it right, once.
Quoted from Metaluna5:PM me. I'm not sure which one you are looking for. I did a few different Batman prints.
Facebook inferior to Pinside, confirmed.
Quoted from AdeptJR:Thanks, I am just going to get the OEM, hopefully I can sale the CoinTaker for at least 75% of what I paid
You'll be better off with OEM or Pinball Life. Coin Takers (including and especially the Red Tremors) suck IME.
Quoted from Midway-Man:I have a feeling the upcoming week will give us a new update... hopefully.
This is supposed to be about batman, not Iron Maiden...
Quoted from PBMAN:Here is a pic of the new ramp installed and the one I am selling. Didn't take a pic of the original ramp installed.
[quoted image][quoted image]
How is it that you changed THAT before the atrocious factory Atomic Pile? The replacement Atomic Pile is the single best cosmetic thing you can do to a Batman'66.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Pinball Refinery putting down some sweet powder![quoted image]
It's be nice if they had a pinstriper that could lay down an actual red pinstripe on the sides and lockdown unlike the crappy vinyl tape they used on the SLEs that came off pretty much as soon as you played it for any length of time from the heat of your hands.
Quoted from frolic:Here are my guesses:
80 SLEs
240 LEs
Those 2 numbers are known.
The rest are guesses.
Pinside shows 389 pinsiders own the game.
If I guessed Premiums, it is:
250 regular premiums
100 Catwoman (by the time it's done)
670 total.
There is no way it is over 1000 games. This will be a very collectible game in the future.
Pretty sure you're low on Premiums. And isn't the "100" limit on Catwoman only the ones that have a signed card? They're making more than 100. It's been on the line for a while.
Quoted from JMCFAN:So new owner....what the must haves for this game? Cliifys, protectors....etc
Cliffies for sure.
Atomic Pile upgrade from Mod Couple FOR SURE. The Stern one is pathetic and looks nothing like the one from the show.
https://themodcouplepinball.com/collections/stern-batman-66-custom-mods-collection/products/batman-66-custom-atomic-pile-mod-kit-lighted
Trim to finish off the bat computer look and cover the exposed wiring is not a bad upgrade:
https://themodcouplepinball.com/collections/stern-batman-66-custom-mods-collection/products/batman-66-bat-computers-upgrade-kit
Batsignal in the upper right PF from doc is a good upgrade.
https://themodcouplepinball.com/collections/stern-batman-66-custom-mods-collection/products/docquest-mini-bat-signal-interactive-game-playfield-mounted-batman-66
Hallmark batcopter for the left PF above GADGET targets is very nicely detailed and pretty inexpensive. Made the SLE one look like a joke.
https://www.amazon.com/Hallmark-Keepsake-Batcopter-Christmas-Ornament/dp/B01MTEK8BN
I didn't really like the plain backside of the crime analyzer upgrades (woodgrain didn't fit), and the back of the sign is right over the ball lock, so I made a "falling balls" warning sign for that area.
crime analyzer back (resized).jpg
sticker-batman-installed (resized).jpg
left-pf (resized).jpgbatcopter (resized).jpg
Here's the falling balls sign. Click to get the full res version to save to your computer, then you can print this, cover it with mylar cut and stick. Looks great installed.
Quoted from andrewket:What did you use to mount the batcopter?
I just re-used the SLE crapcopter mount. However, it's just a coathanger-gauge wire zip-tied to the botton of the copter on the stock SLE helicopter. You can just cut up a coat hanger and bend one. It's not really that complicated.
These pics are the hallmark batcopter using the exact same method to attach it to the mount wire as the SLE came with. You can't really see the zipties once it's installed, but if you did white ziptie under and red for the back one, it would make it even better (Stern used black on the SLE, but that copter had gray landing gear).
batcopter-side (resized).jpgbatcopter-bottom (resized).jpg
Quoted from Scotty_K:In Vireland's post with the photos above, in regard to the third picture from the top (the one with the shot of the playfield at an angle), I noticed that there are small little dimples on the surface. I have the same marks on my playfield as well (I've owned my BM66 since this past April). As this was my first NIB machine, I was wondering if this is normal wear and tear for a new machine like this? I'm thinking the playfield surface must be kind of soft to be leaving dimple marks like this.
Just wondering...
On a side note, I got my first Batusi yesterday; man, that was wild!
Batman'66 (at least the first run) had moderately crappy playfield wood. Stern playfields post-2008 vary from somewhat soft to decently hard these days, and it's pot luck what any specific run gets. Batman'66 was one of the worst ones for playfield hardness, which led to some pretty crater-y playfields pretty fast. It's not "normal" in a historical sense, but it's a "new normal" just like lots of other cost-cutting measures at Stern post 2008.
Quoted from flipper73:Hello everybody. Is there a chance tu buy the topper of the LE game?
Unlikely, AFAIK.
Quoted from DeathHimself:Thanks for the photos of the copter wire mount Vireland, made installing one a breeze. Wasn’t sure if I wanted to put batgirl or copter there but I like the copter. Even made it hover over the ball trail and the rotor moves too with shaker motor and lots of action [quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great. That's the best place for it. It makes sense and doesn't clutter up the sight lines of the machine. Those hallmark ornaments are a bargain if you have a Batman'66. They'd cost 5-8x as much if they were a mod made from scratch.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Added the Batcopter last night. Just eyeballed the bracket thing from pics you guys have posted. Used 16 gage wire.[quoted image][quoted image]
Why didn't you used the hallmark batcopter? It's much better looking and more detailed...
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Wanted to go with the proper one for the SLE. I got the Batcycle and Bat Boat also.
The only reason the SLE went with that is because it was cheap. Trust me, we had an SLE and I promptly replaced the batcopter with the hallmark one and the laughable atomic pile with the mod couple mod. Huge, immediate improvement. The SLE build is nothing to aspire to - it's cheap on cheap on cheap.
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:[quoted image]
So if there's a Premium "A" is there a Premium "B" coming?
Quoted from TronGuy:I just received my Titan rubbers . Again, I am inexperienced in play field maintenance.
I think I can figure out where all of the bug pieces go. I am showing pictures of a dozen or so rubber “post covers”? And a couple thinner looking green post covers and one with a round cap.
The first picture I have a rubber post sitting next to where I think it may go? Am I correct?
If so I figure I can work my way around until I figure it all out.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Those are post covers for the stainless steel posts in the game, not for the sling posts (AFAIK unless this is some new Titan thing). Look at each end of the GADGET targets and the TV targets across from GADGET. Those black post rubber sleeves are likely what those are intended for.
Quoted from crwjumper:The clear posts go where there are currently black covers, like the ones at the entrances to the ramps. The one with the cap replaces the rubber on the shooter rod tip.
Batman'66 has no posts at the ramps. It uses the blue square bumpers.
Quoted from TronGuy:Pic of one I replaced with one about to be replaced. The titan one are slightly fatter and shorter, but this appears to be the spot(s) you guys were referring to.[quoted image]
Bottom one I think you're good on, but the top one may interfere with the crane if it's the fatter titan. I'd use a slim one there.
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:Is anyone else getting a crazy amount of dimples in front of the crane ball? There is a big line of them right in front of the ball at each umbrella. I'm getting a little worried that I might start losing chunks of the playfield at some point. None of my other games have this many dimples.
Batman'66 has notoriously soft playfields for most (all?) of the runs. The first ones, especially, were terrible. Some of the biggest craters in modern Sterns. You're not alone.
Quoted from e4wesley:My Batman 66 appears to be having a technical issue. Can someone explain to me the issue and how to go about getting it fixed?
Mis-adjusted switch triggering from vibration.
Glass off, go to system menu, enter switch test mode, bang the playfield firmly with your open palm in various places and watch the screen to see which switch is triggered by the vibration. Adjust that switch to be less sensitive.
This just-released trailer mashing up The Batman with Batman '66 characters using a combination of cleverly edited clips, CG and deepfakes is brilliant. WELL worth the watch.
Quoted from thekaiser82:That was awesome. Thanks for sharing.
Here's a making-of the mashup trailer (lots of sponsor plugs, though):
Quoted from bicyclenut:I saw this ad and thought it would make a killer topper
[quoted image]
Too bad it's not spread out horizontally a bit more, but with some well-placed LED accent lights it would look very nice as a topper.
Just saw an article today where Scott Hamilton (the skater) recently downsized his house and sold "95% of his stuff" in the move. But he didn't sell his pinball machines. In the collector's call show from 2020, he had Munsters, Dialed In, Batman'66, and Pinball 2k Star Wars.
https://people.com/scott-hamilton-annual-ice-show-exclusive-8401485
The addiction is real.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:If I have 1.10 installed on my machine, but I have a copy of 1.09 on a USB stick, can I revert back to 1.09 without messing with the SD card and Etcher? Thanks!
You should be able to, as long as it's a USB stick that the machine recognizes. Power on with it plugged in and the coin door open and it should go to the upgrade screen where you select the rom to burn from the USB drive.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:So, regarding the process of reverting back to 1.09 code. Is there any reason I can't use the SD card that's in the game? Format it, and load 1.09 on it? I'm not concerned about saving high scores as the game is fairly new to me anyway. Thanks !
You can re-use the SD card in the game.
Quoted from dtrimberger:Anybody have PinMonk fans on their flippers? I can backhand the L ramp for my first couple games but it definitely fades. That ramp is definitely my nemesis and limits my progress in most modes. Any tips y'all have for that ramp I'll take as well.
Thanks
Batman '66 definitely has fade on both flippers, but the left flipper has more, so that makes sense. At the time I tested Batman'66 I was only doing a 60 minute test (I changed to 2 hour tests not long after), but even in 60 minutes the left was at 155F and the right was at 145F, which means both flippers were in the fade zone. Either of the Tibetan Breeze kits (standard or ZEN) will keep the temps at 110F or less so the performance stays consistent no matter how long you play.
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