Batman 66 - Official Club Thread


By TigerLaw

1 year ago


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#6501 8 days ago
Quoted from cadmium:

I was flooded from Hurricane Harvey with 2 feet of water. We were out of town, but my kids were in the habit of keeping bean bag chairs under our BM66 for storage. This luckily created a floating barge/seal that lifted and protected the game just enough to keep the water off the cabinet. Thank heavens for little things.
Unfortunately all my BM66 paperwork was flooded including the replacement stickers for game targets. I've emailed stern a few times but received no reply. Does anyone know where I can get replacement stickers?
Also, the rubber gasket behind the Commissioner Gordon shot has totally disintegrated. Does anyone know what replacement part that is and how to remove the Commissioner Gordon shot target to replace it?

That sucks dealing with the flood. I hope you are recovering from that mess. Have you called your distributor for the replacement stickers?

10
#6502 8 days ago
Quoted from jfh:

That really sucks.
Stern should send us all the cabinet reinforcement hardware they put on Star Wars. And start using better cabinets again.
(What was the build date of your game?)

Cointaker and Stern stepped up, a replacement game is being sent...

#6503 8 days ago
Quoted from cadmium:

Does anyone know where I can get replacement stickers?

Ask your dealer to order part number 802-5000-12.

#6504 8 days ago
Quoted from jfh:

Ask your dealer to order part number 802-5000-12.

Do you have a part # for the batman sticker on the lockdown bar? Might be in the manual, but away from my desk. Heading to metal fab shop next week....

#6505 8 days ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

I've been playing this game....really playing it......there is something here, for sure.....incredibly fun!!!!

Are you still playing with the villains stacked? I have, ever since you suggested it months ago and I can't go back now!

#6506 8 days ago
Quoted from Bamatami:

Are you still playing with the villains stacked? I have, ever since you suggested it months ago and I can't go back now!

Oh yeah....for me, lots of fun!!!! the new code rocks!!!

#6507 8 days ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Do you have a part # for the batman sticker on the lockdown bar? Might be in the manual, but away from my desk. Heading to metal fab shop next week....

Mark, I just went through entire manual and can find every decal except the one on the lockdown bar. Here's the PDF of the manual: http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/games/batman-66/le/Batman_LE_Pre_web.pdf .

#6508 8 days ago
Quoted from Bamatami:

Are you still playing with the villains stacked? I have, ever since you suggested it months ago and I can't go back now!

Same here... but Vireland was the one who suggested me that option, and it is indeed amazing! Thanks again Vireland!

#6509 8 days ago

How do I turn on the stacking option? What is the difference from regular gameplay?

#6510 8 days ago
Quoted from marksf123:

How do I turn on the stacking option? What is the difference from regular gameplay?

Go to Adjustments in the Service Menu, and to Game/Feature Adjustments. It's #42 and asks "Stack Major Villains" and just change it to "yes". It lets you battle all the major villains at once. I haven't played the default setting really enough to know the difference, but I'm assuming you don't have to beat a villain before moving on to another? I think once you try it, you won't go back to game default!

#6511 8 days ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Do you have a part # for the batman sticker on the lockdown bar?

No, sorry.

#6512 8 days ago
Quoted from Bamatami:

Go to Adjustments in the Service Menu, and to Game/Feature Adjustments. It's #42 and asks "Stack Major Villains" and just change it to "yes". It lets you battle all the major villains at once. I haven't played the default setting really enough to know the difference, but I'm assuming you don't have to beat a villain before moving on to another? I think once you try it, you won't go back to game default!

How does it work with cliffhangers now?

#6513 8 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

How does it work with cliffhangers now?

What do you want a Spoiler? lol Go play it and find out!! lol just teasing.

#6514 8 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

How does it work with cliffhangers now?

I turned stacking off because of this.

#6515 8 days ago
Quoted from pauloz:

I turned stacking off because of this.

Quoted from Rolls-Royce:

Same here... but Vireland was the one who suggested me that option, and it is indeed amazing! Thanks again Vireland!

no credit for me please...I think I just said "me too" or something of that nature...I screw w the settings all the time....

#6516 8 days ago
Quoted from Bamatami:

Mark, I just went through entire manual and can find every decal except the one on the lockdown bar. Here's the PDF of the manual: http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/games/batman-66/le/Batman_LE_Pre_web.pdf .

I think it’s the one the item we still need to come up with an aftermarket replacement for. I’ve never liked the sticker. I had some custom pinstriping done and also did a painted bat logo which looks better than the sticker. But, I would still like to see a laser cut version. If I was still building mods it’s one thing I would do. But I don’t have any time for it right now

#6517 8 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

How does it work with cliffhangers now?

Still works fine w cliffhangers, btw.....

#6518 8 days ago
Quoted from Zdoor:

I think it’s the one the item we still need to come up with an aftermarket replacement for. I’ve never liked the sticker. I had some custom pinstriping done and also did a painted bat logo which looks better than the sticker. But, I would still like to see a laser cut version. If I was still building months it’s one thing I would do. But I don’t have any time for it right now

I'm having one made, metal, chrome plated, with a raised bat logo, which will have a red pinstripe....reason I was asking for the sticker was I wanted to insure the size was perfect ( this will go right over existing logo). Chrome and design perfect (for me) as the armor is black w heavy silver sparkle, coin housings chromed.

This will unfortunately be a one off ( at the moment), as I'm not sure he'd be willing to do more. I'll post some pics when it's done. Trying to incorporate BM66LE in it somehow......
.

#6519 8 days ago

Man this is becoming TWD all over again for me.

In a different way though.

TWD was hard as F, the layout is brutal and Lyman crushed it into one of the best pins of all time.

BM66 is a relatively easy/smooth shooting pin and seriously, the latest code update is GREAT! Especially at .81 and what's to come.

Been pushing that start button over and over again, just like TWD.

#6520 8 days ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Man this is becoming TWD all over again for me.
In a different way though.
TWD was hard as F, the layout is brutal and Lyman crushed it into one of the best pins of all time.
BM66 is a relatively easy/smooth shooting pin and seriously, the latest code update is GREAT! Especially at .81 and what's to come.
Been pushing that start button over and over again, just like TWD.

Agreed....couldn't wait to get home tonight and fire it up!!!!!

#6521 8 days ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Still works fine w cliffhangers, btw.....

Good, I thought I was missing out on something? Am I?!

And, regarding the decal on the lockdown bar, didn't The Mod Couple aka Yelobird say he was thinking of coming up with a mod for this? I might be wrong but I remember a post recently about it.

#6522 8 days ago
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:

Same here... but Vireland was the one who suggested me that option, and it is indeed amazing! Thanks again Vireland!

Hold on, let me graph the awesomeness to make it more understandable...

#6523 8 days ago
Quoted from Bamatami:

Good, I thought I was missing out on something? Am I?!
And, regarding the decal on the lockdown bar, didn't The Mod Couple aka Yelobird say he was thinking of coming up with a mod for this? I might be wrong but I remember a post recently about it.

Yes, in the works soon I promise!

The Mod Couple

#6524 7 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Hold on, let me graph the awesomeness to make it more understandable...

Hahahahaha..... thanks Vireland!

#6525 7 days ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Still works fine w cliffhangers, btw.....

That must be intense if you can be at various levels of cliffhangers for all the villains. I may have to try it again.

#6526 7 days ago
Quoted from jfh:

That must be intense if you can be at various levels of cliffhangers for all the villains. I may have to try it again.

It truly is quite fun...alot to keep up with...Im hoping to get through all of them and see what happens...I just dont play good enough...yet

#6527 7 days ago

Installed the Mod Couples Atomic Pile and Spinner kit s today. What a great improvement. Just got the Speaker Lighting kit to go but it looks a bit more difficult and looks like it might take a lot more time so I might wait until next week when I can get someone over to help with it. Cant wait, its going to look great.

#6528 7 days ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

It truly is quite fun...alot to keep up with...Im hoping to get through all of them and see what happens...I just dont play good enough...yet

As crappy as I play I may never see the cool factor but dam if you all didn't convince me to try! How do I set it to 8 ball play again??? lol

#6529 7 days ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Yes!

Were you able to measure the voltage at that connector during attract mode when projector should be on and then again during gameplay when projector is off.

Can you (or anyone with a premium) confirm if there are mounting studs in the upper back of the back box? My LE had them for the node boards so I assume the premiums have them as well even though there are no node boards there. Also assuming there is an existing hole in the top of the back box for topper cables?

#6530 7 days ago
Quoted from docquest:

Were you able to measure the voltage at that connector during attract mode when projector should be on and then again during gameplay when projector is off.
Can you (or anyone with a premium) confirm if there are mounting studs in the upper back of the back box? My LE had them for the node boards so I assume the premiums have them as well even though there are no node boards there. Also assuming there is an existing hole in the top of the back box for topper cables?

Someone with a Premium Please step up and Help this man so I can get his Awesome projector Mod already!!! lol Worst case you could always use the vent screens in the back of the backbox as a wire route? Just start your product line for us LE owners and I am Certain the Premium owners will step up with details soon after they see your work....

#6531 7 days ago

Installed @yelobird's Atomic Pile, Speaker Mod and a couple of @modfather's Pin Cups. Also put in a Flipper Fidelity speaker upgrade. I did the Stern replacement batmobile/disc and left ramp diverter and ramp ball deflector.

As usual, @yelobird and @modfather's stuff look amazing. (Photo's below.)

For years, I've done my own speaker upgrades, and I'm a bit picky. I typically follow this process:

http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html

A couple comments on the 10" "Speaker Light Option" Flipper Fidelity kit. While the Flipper Fidelity set sounds excellent, a couple things bother me. First, the 5/8" standoffs are way too long, and the backbox speakers, which only rest on two screws, are precarious at best (particularly when you consider the additional speaker panel depth created with the speaker light mod). They use these standoffs because the coaxial part of the speakers project significantly beyond the surface, and thus need clearance to not press into the speaker grill. That being said, they don't need THAT much clearance. Also, the new height interferes with the cable that the speaker panel hangs from. If it gets caught somehow on the speaker, it will bend the speaker mount points when opened. Given the precariousness of the mount, I'll probably move to a two-way coaxial (such as produced by Kicker) that I've used in other machines where the coaxial depth doesn't proceed beyond the speaker surface.

Secondly, shame on me for getting the 10" cabinet speaker. I think I literally had a brain lapse when I ordered that. 10" is completely ridiculous. It's fine for LFE in a home theater, or perhaps shaking your car, but for your pinball machine (particularly one with a shaker motor) anything beyond 8" is silly. If you want a sub, I'd probably get an external sub (maybe with the Pinnovators mod) and go that route. I typically cut a larger hole on WPC machines to accommodate the 8" throw and create a new mounting plate. This machine already has an 8" hole. In this case, you get a mounting plate adapter so you can mount a 10" throw over the 8" hole. A woofer throws air, so if you obstruct the surface too much, you're kind of losing the point. Still, the mounting plate makes connecting this enormous speaker easy, but again, it's partly obscured. The instructions with the Flipper Fidelity kit talk about adjusting the backbox volume, which I assume is the "Speaker Volume," and bass volume, which I assume is also known as "Bass." It reads like there should be a potentiometer like I install with the WPC speaker upgrade work...but there isn't anything like that.

This all being said, once I installed the complementary rattle tape on the playfield glass and turned down the bass a bit (I also had to turn down the treble significantly and balance out the volume, though I suspect some of this will be resolved with more music/call out level normalization in future releases), it's like my machine is explosive. I'm not going to lie, it's hysterically fun, in deep bass moments it's almost like it's the shaker motor going off.

Just some thoughts on this process.

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#6532 7 days ago
Quoted from jsa:

Installed yelobird's Atomic Pile, Speaker Mod and a couple of modfather's Pin Cups. Also put in a Flipper Fidelity speaker upgrade. I did the Stern replacement batmobile/disc and left ramp diverter and ramp ball deflector.
As usual, yelobird and modfather's stuff look amazing. (Photo's below.)
For years, I've done my own speaker upgrades, and I'm a bit picky. I typically follow this process:
http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html
A couple comments on the 10" "Speaker Light Option" Flipper Fidelity kit. While the Flipper Fidelity set sounds excellent, a couple things bother me. First, the 5/8" standoffs are way too long, and the backbox speakers, which only rest on two screws, are precarious at best (particularly when you consider the additional speaker panel depth created with the speaker light mod). They use these standoffs because the coaxial part of the speakers project significantly beyond the surface, and thus need clearance to not press into the speaker grill. That being said, they don't need THAT much clearance. Also, the new height interferes with the cable that the speaker panel hangs from. If it gets caught somehow on the speaker, it will bend the speaker mount points when opened. Given the precariousness of the mount, I'll probably move to a two-way coaxial (such as produced by Kicker) that I've used in other machines where the coaxial depth doesn't proceed beyond the speaker surface.
Secondly, shame on me for getting the 10" cabinet speaker. I think I literally had a brain lapse when I ordered that. 10" is completely ridiculous. It's fine for LFE in a home theater, or perhaps shaking your car, but for your pinball machine (particularly one with a shaker motor) anything beyond 8" is silly. If you want a sub, I'd probably get an external sub (maybe with the Pinnovators mod) and go that route. I typically cut a larger hole on WPC machines to accommodate the 8" throw and create a new mounting plate. This machine already has an 8" hole. In this case, you get a mounting plate adapter so you can mount a 10" throw over the 8" hole. A woofer throws air, so if you obstruct the surface too much, you're kind of losing the point. Still, the mounting plate makes connecting this enormous speaker easy, but again, it's partly obscured. The instructions with the Flipper Fidelity kit talk about adjusting the backbox volume, which I assume is the "Speaker Volume," and bass volume, which I assume is also known as "Bass." It reads like there should be a potentiometer like I install with the WPC speaker upgrade work...but there isn't anything like that.
This all being said, once I installed the complementary rattle tape on the playfield glass and turned down the bass a bit (I also had to turn down the treble significantly and balance out the volume, though I suspect some of this will be resolved with more music/call out level normalization in future releases), it's like my machine is explosive. I'm not going to lie, it's hysterically fun, in deep bass moments it's almost like it's the shaker motor going off.
Just some thoughts on this process.

SO agree on the 8" over 10". Truth be told I don't think I have ever had the volume over 12? Mama like to play but not with ear plugs. Rules....lol Thank you SO much for the bit about the roll strip of?? My kit had no instructions and while simple to install for the life of me (dingus) I couldn't figure out what the roll of tape was for! Guess I'll be doing that this weekend now since its sitting in the coin box. Still love the Flipper Fidelity kit though the only issue I had were the Aluminum hex studs they provided. Just one extra turn and they break. Guess thats why they give you spares.... Thanks for the kind words and write up. Looks Awesome!!!

#6533 7 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

SO agree on the 8" over 10". Truth be told I don't think I have ever had the volume over 12? Mama like to play but not with ear plugs. Rules....lol Thank you SO much for the bit about the roll strip of?? My kit had no instructions and while simple to install for the life of me (dingus) I couldn't figure out what the roll of tape was for! Guess I'll be doing that this weekend now since its sitting in the coin box. Still love the Flipper Fidelity kit though the only issue I had were the Aluminum hex studs they provided. Just one extra turn and they break. Guess thats why they give you spares.... Thanks for the kind words and write up. Looks Awesome!!!

Yeah, I've used both Pinball Pro and Flipper Fidelity rattle tape. Both are transparent. PP's tape is a bit thinner. I was honestly surprised when they worked so well! It makes a HUGE difference with these larger cabinet speakers, because even a slight rattle creates a huge distortion effect. The way you apply it is you start at the bottom of the left side of the glass and work your way up the surface to the top, fold/wrap around the top, and work your way all the way down the bottom. Make sure to smooth out air bubbles as you go. When you get to the bottom of the back side, cut it, and repeat on the right side of the glass. It makes the glass slightly harder to slip into the machine but it does slip in.

Those hex bolts are also a problem because THEY ARE TOO LONG. I'd rather use NO standoffs, so I'll swap my FF speakers with other ones. FF's speakers sound really quite good, so I'm not complaining about the sound, just the solidity of the mounting.

Also, @yelobird, you might want to manufacture some kind of bracket instead of the "pinching" method for those monitor screws. One of my screws seemed to be loose compared to the other three. Also, since we remove the speaker back plates, there is a left to right "wiggle room" for the plate. The monitor needs to be perfectly centered or you will see an outline of the monitor. Make sure your customers know to center that monitor before tightening the screws. Finally, if they have a real hard time getting those screws to pinch, one trick is losening the two nuts holding the plate down closest to the monitor. This lets you lift that plate on the monitor side, so you can slip screws through, then tighten it again. Again, might be easier to design some kind of bracket.

#6534 7 days ago
Quoted from docquest:

Were you able to measure the voltage at that connector during attract mode when projector should be on and then again during gameplay when projector is off.
Can you (or anyone with a premium) confirm if there are mounting studs in the upper back of the back box? My LE had them for the node boards so I assume the premiums have them as well even though there are no node boards there. Also assuming there is an existing hole in the top of the back box for topper cables?

Accidentally left my meter at work. Will confirm tonight. Will also double check on the mounting studs for the node boards. I don't remember ever seeing any inside the back box. All of my node boards mounted to the base of the PRE topper. The PRE topper and beacon although two separate units need to be combined into one unit to fit on top of the back box. And yes there is an access hole for wires on top of the back box.

#6535 7 days ago

question for the guys who have updated their speakers..... so it seems like an 8 inch sub is probably the way to go (excluding going the external sub route).
But how about thoughts on Flipper Fidelity's typical high output sub vs his coax sub? Anyone have experience with those at all?

I have his other typical HO sub / kits in my WPC pins but this is the 1st time I'm getting some for Spike.
Thanks.

#6536 7 days ago

Has anyone had air balls off the right ramp?
I'm getting a good quantity every game. If it's not centre it's hitting the ramp and jumping the guard.... Exit stage right.
I've had them hitting the playfield glass, jumping across and landing on the side rail. Got one that jumped across and landed in the wireform. Today it jumped and got stuck on the plastic behind the crane.
It's set at 6.9 degrees but was wondering if anyone else has had the same problem.
Left ramp is perfect, no issues at all.

IMG_20171115_135952 (resized).jpg

#6537 7 days ago

Do you have a playfield protector on? If so the ramp flap must be on top of the protector. Or the protector must be trimmed around flap.

#6538 7 days ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Do you have a playfield protector on? If so the ramp flap must be on top of the protector. Or the protector must be trimmed around flap.

Well spotted. It seems the ramp entrance cut out on the protector was too large a gap to the ramp flap. It created a groove and I could actually balance a ball up there. Seems that was the launchpad for all my attempted offline ramp shots. The way I was heading I would of had the playfield plastics smashed in a week. I've adjusted it and will give it a good playtest tomorrow. Thanks for the tip

#6539 7 days ago
Quoted from Sutol:

Has anyone had air balls off the right ramp?
I'm getting a good quantity every game. If it's not centre it's hitting the ramp and jumping the guard.... Exit stage right.
I've had them hitting the playfield glass, jumping across and landing on the side rail. Got one that jumped across and landed in the wireform. Today it jumped and got stuck on the plastic behind the crane.
It's set at 6.9 degrees but was wondering if anyone else has had the same problem.
Left ramp is perfect, no issues at all.

No problems w right ramp....left one is far from perfect, but effective " bandaid" w extwnded plastic flap to prevent air balls....a day closer to Matt making the replacement...

#6540 7 days ago

Does BM66 / Spike 2 games have distinct channels for the backbox speakers vs. the cabinet?

#6541 7 days ago

Doc...the CN3 connection reads 0 volts when off and 5 volts when lit. Checked inside the back box and there are NO studs to mount node boards for the Premium.

#6542 6 days ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Doc...the CN3 connection reads 0 volts when off and 5 volts when lit. Checked inside the back box and there are NO studs to mount node boards for the Premium.

Thanks thats what the voltage i was expecting.

No studs, i'll have to take another look at my LE backbox. I would think the backboxes would be the same between prem and LE but maybe not.

#6543 6 days ago

I just viewed batman sle artwork in person it's unbelievable a picture doesn't do it justice . Had a metal reflective look and a 3 d feel stern should make more machines with these decals.
Can these be purchased or made
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#6544 6 days ago
Quoted from Georgeh:

I just viewed batman sle artwork in person it's unbelievable a picture doesn't do it justice . Had a metal reflective look and a 3 d feel stern should make more machines with these decals.
Can these be purchased or made

Truly a masterpiece!

For all of you (80)owners of this SLE I must say that you have the most exclusive Pinball on history...(I’m just a fan of Batman 1966, who grew up in my grandmothers home watching re-runs of Season 1 and that was it back home). Now I’m privileged, honoured, proud and happy to have my own L.E. #100 in my place (My Brother bought L.E. #9), but you fellas have something seriously very very nice in your hands and If I’m extremely happy with mine, I honestly can’t imagine how you can feel with yours.

Regards

#6545 6 days ago

Just a Teaser post since everyone is so quiet playing the snot out of their Awesome Batman with Code (ish). The upgraded lockdown bar Bat utilities button Mod will be released this weekend! Final fine tuning of prototypes and color adjustments are now to our liking and almost ready to present. Again not a mod for everyone but if you aren't a fan (like us) of the last minute Stern sticker bat solution you may like our creation. Stay tuned, Same Bat Channel......

#6546 5 days ago

Thanks Yelobird!

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#6547 5 days ago

To heck with waiting for the weekend! Early is better than on schedule! The Batman 66 "KaBoom Bar Badge" is Done! After receiving our Awesome LE the one Stand out what the &^% for us was the boring lockdown bar sticker with elevated button. Just seemed out of place and a last minute detail addition. Sooo, in Mod Couple fashion we decided to create our Own theme correct variation! The KaBoom Badge is Completely plug and play as always. Goes Over your existing Stern sticker to keep your games purity (or SLE value) and fits like a Glove with the Exact same button and bar socket profile as the original black spacer. 5 minute setup tops. 3D profiled with random raised lettering each hand painted to Batman styling. Badge is also angle shaped to match the lockdown bar profile on all sides! For the final small touch, a clear print "KaBoom" decal is included to accent your existing mechanical button for a uniform authentic look! The plastic used was Translucent though the badge only slightly glows in a darker room. Really turned out nice and we hope others will like it as well. The are available now for sale and begin shipping Monday AM! Price is $29.25 Free US shipping. PM for availability and purchase. Thanks as Always for everyones support and interest in our products. We Appreciate you All!

The Mod Couple!!

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#6548 5 days ago

I have all the other Mod Couple mods, but going to pass on this one.

I'd prefer to see a metallic upgrade.

#6549 5 days ago
Quoted from jfh:

I have all the other Mod Couple mods, but going to pass on this one.
I'd prefer to see a metallic upgrade.

I considered metal as thats what I normally make but the cartoonish theme of Batman 66 just didn't look right with a metal flat badge. Looked to much like a patch for me. I do appreciate your feedback and Very much appreciate all the support you have shown us! For the record it really does look awesome on the game though taking photos is difficult to show correctly.

#6550 5 days ago

Batman isn't cartoonish, it's campy. There is a big difference.

I also happen to think this particular mod detracts from your speaker mod. But I can't wait to see what else you come up with - maybe a desk decal and study backdrop to separate the Batphone and bust on the desk (Doc's set up) and your Atomic Pile?

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