Quoted from rockrand:I asked before but is the shaker worth buying for my premium
Hard to say until the code matures. It doesn't do much so far.
Quoted from rockrand:I asked before but is the shaker worth buying for my premium
Hard to say until the code matures. It doesn't do much so far.
Quoted from Trekkie1978:I was looking for a local store.
I ended up putting my order through them anyway.
I need to take some pics of what I did that worked very well. I haven't had a single fly-off since I adjusted things. I added the rubber spacer under the right ramp mount like some have shown here, but I was still getting fly-offs. I set up a go-Pro and took some film of the ball travelling on the wire form. Of course, the ball would not cooperate and fly-off when I was filming, but I did notice the wireform was bouncing just a bit as the ball went over it. If you look, there is really very little support to the left side of the wireform where it hits the ramp, and very little support for the ramp itself as well. I was working off the assumption that maybe this bounce, coupled with the inertia of the ball, was causing it to go up and over the rail.
The fix: I had several of the blue rubber squares you can buy from Marco that are self-sticking and go at the end of a ramp before the ball drop....just a one-inch rubber square made of pretty hard rubber. I used the adhesive back and stuck it to the top of the ball gate mount in the top lane (fits very nice) and it is just thick enough to push the wire form up just a bit, and give it some good support. With that support, the ramp is pretty rock-steady, and so far there are no ball jumps since. I still think there is a lot of inertia going on because the ball will skin the plastic cover that covers the switch on that wireform, but at least the balls are staying on. Anyone else do something similar? I would suggest getting one of the black rubber squares if you try it, but the blue doesn't look bad, given the colors of the game. I can post some pics tonight when I get home if anyone is interested.
Quoted from Manimal:I need to take some pics of what I did that worked very well. I haven't had a single fly-off since I adjusted things. I added the rubber spacer under the right ramp mount like some have shown here, but I was still getting fly-offs. I set up a go-Pro and took some film of the ball travelling on the wire form. Of course, the ball would not cooperate and fly-off when I was filming, but I did notice the wireform was bouncing just a bit as the ball went over it. If you look, there is really very little support to the left side of the wireform where it hits the ramp, and very little support for the ramp itself as well. I was working off the assumption that maybe this bounce, coupled with the inertia of the ball, was causing it to go up and over the rail.
The fix: I had several of the blue rubber squares you can buy from Marco that are self-sticking and go at the end of a ramp before the ball drop....just a one-inch rubber square made of pretty hard rubber. I used the adhesive back and stuck it to the top of the ball gate mount in the top lane (fits very nice) and it is just thick enough to push the wire form up just a bit, and give it some good support. With that support, the ramp is pretty rock-steady, and so far there are no ball jumps since. I still think there is a lot of inertia going on because the ball will skin the plastic cover that covers the switch on that wireform, but at least the balls are staying on. Anyone else do something similar? I would suggest getting one of the black rubber squares if you try it, but the blue doesn't look bad, given the colors of the game. I can post some pics tonight when I get home if anyone is interested.
Thanks for the update. I would be interest in seeing the pics.
That's mighty annoying seeing a machine in OZ but still no clue on arrival of machines here in the U.K.
Quoted from Manimal:I need to take some pics of what I did that worked very well. I haven't had a single fly-off since I adjusted things. I added the rubber spacer under the right ramp mount like some have shown here, but I was still getting fly-offs. I set up a go-Pro and took some film of the ball travelling on the wire form. Of course, the ball would not cooperate and fly-off when I was filming, but I did notice the wireform was bouncing just a bit as the ball went over it. If you look, there is really very little support to the left side of the wireform where it hits the ramp, and very little support for the ramp itself as well. I was working off the assumption that maybe this bounce, coupled with the inertia of the ball, was causing it to go up and over the rail.
The fix: I had several of the blue rubber squares you can buy from Marco that are self-sticking and go at the end of a ramp before the ball drop....just a one-inch rubber square made of pretty hard rubber. I used the adhesive back and stuck it to the top of the ball gate mount in the top lane (fits very nice) and it is just thick enough to push the wire form up just a bit, and give it some good support. With that support, the ramp is pretty rock-steady, and so far there are no ball jumps since. I still think there is a lot of inertia going on because the ball will skin the plastic cover that covers the switch on that wireform, but at least the balls are staying on. Anyone else do something similar? I would suggest getting one of the black rubber squares if you try it, but the blue doesn't look bad, given the colors of the game. I can post some pics tonight when I get home if anyone is interested.
Ya I did something similar. Stacked 3 small, silicone pads on top of each other.
It eliminated any vibration and helps with airballs.
Quoted from PiperPinball:Ya I did something similar. Stacked 3 small, silicone pads on top of each other.
It eliminated any vibration and helps with airballs.
Yep, same thing...I just used a square bumper pad. I really do think the majority of the flyoff problem is the bounce on that ramp. When the ball get to the top of the ramp, the wireform sags, but then recovers as the ball gets to the middle of the loop and actually bounces up as the ball starts down the other side. That little bounce is enough to send the ball over the edge in many cases.
Quoted from PiperPinball:Everyone should check their magnet to sure its level. Mine dropped down a bit. We adjusted it about a degree clockwise. Now its nice and level with the playfield.
Ok is the monster bash pic on purpose? You've mindf%}%'d me. Kudos that doesn't usually happen, esp on pinside.
Quoted from PiperPinball:Everyone should check their magnet to sure its level. Mine dropped down a bit. We adjusted it about a degree clockwise. Now its nice and level with the playfield.
So are you saying the magnet dropped down in the core, or the whole assembly?
Quoted from ATLpb:Ok is the monster bash pic on purpose? You've mindf%}%'d me. Kudos that doesn't usually happen, esp on pinside.
opps....was on my phone posting it and clicked it on by mistake. Was modding MB last night. Older picture actually, Wolfman has an LED drum set now.
Quoted from Manimal:So are you saying the magnet dropped down in the core, or the whole assembly?
The whole assembly. Adjusted it a little higher.
I think if left unchecked it could cause some serious damage to the pf wood around the magnet.
Quoted from PiperPinball:Everyone should check their magnet to sure its level. Mine dropped down a bit. We adjusted it about a degree clockwise. Now its nice and level with the playfield.
I love the glow from the drac trac. Well done.
Quoted from PiperPinball:The whole assembly. Adjusted it a little higher.
I think if left unchecked it could cause some serious damage to the pf wood around the magnet.
This pic was on a different forum.
Made me think the magnet was too low on the playfield causing this pf damage.
Quoted from Pimp77:I love the glow from the drac trac. Well done.
Thank you!
Here is Wolfmans drum set. There is a flashing Red LED inside it. Spot light to follow.
Hello,All,as you may know by now,my B66LE #53 was delivered last week,completely broken!! Stern is replacing the entire turntable assy.The metal shaft that is welded to a metal plate that turns the assy,was broken at the welds!I don't think you can grasp the disappointment. and anger I feel on this!! They are also taking there own sweet time sending it back!! I just called for a update and was told that are waiting for some ass reason,with apology they said they would send part tomorrow!! BEWARE !! We shouldn't be having ANY issues with this pin ,and look at all the posts about issues! And the aftermarket is starting to dump this title!!
Quoted from hawkmoon:Hello,All,as you may know by now,my B66LE #53 was delivered last week,completely broken!! Stern is replacing the entire turntable assy.The metal shaft that is welded to a metal plate that turns the assy,was broken at the welds!I don't think you can grasp the disappointment. and anger I feel on this!! They are also taking there own sweet time sending it back!! I just called for a update and was told that are waiting for some ass reason,with apology they said they would send part tomorrow!! BEWARE !! We shouldn't be having ANY issues with this pin ,and look at all the posts about issues! And the aftermarket is starting to dump this title!!
I feel your pain. They're not perfect nor speedy but they will get it right. Probably better to use more patience and less public forum thrashing but you're entitled to it either way. I look forward to you being able to play your game and share it with others. On the bright side, the code isn't nearly done. Regarding aftermarket value- Stop me if you've heard this one before: Game gets released, devalues, code gets better, game value grows. Hang in there.
Quoted from hawkmoon:Hello,All,as you may know by now,my B66LE #53 was delivered last week,completely broken!! Stern is replacing the entire turntable assy.The metal shaft that is welded to a metal plate that turns the assy,was broken at the welds!I don't think you can grasp the disappointment. and anger I feel on this!! They are also taking there own sweet time sending it back!! I just called for a update and was told that are waiting for some ass reason,with apology they said they would send part tomorrow!! BEWARE !! We shouldn't be having ANY issues with this pin ,and look at all the posts about issues! And the aftermarket is starting to dump this title!!
Sorry to hear about your troubles with the pin. Had a similar issue with my LE...the whole flasher assembly broke off from the spinner and ended up on the ramp towards the backside of the Playfield. Damaged the batmobile but luckily no other issues. To say the least my pin is down and will hopefully be back up and running when parts arrive and and a new code update is available.
The crappy part of all this is not that the part broke...shit happens while in shipment. But that I contacted customer support on Sterns website twice and I have not heard back from anyone. I contacted my distributor and he was able to confirm that a new part was going to be shipped. What's the point of having a contact us page if the company doesn't plan to use it?? Really is frustrating that the customer support has fallen through the cracks in recent years. Just another reason not to buy early or to buy from again in the future, a major turnoff.
Quoted from PiperPinball:Thank you!
Here is Wolfmans drum set. There is a flashing Red LED inside it. Spot light to follow.
Wow.... can u make me some those mods....
Quoted from hawkmoon:Hello,All,as you may know by now,my B66LE #53 was delivered last week,completely broken!!
Not to worry. At this point it still a better game to just look at than to play anyway.
The rubber pad I was referring to. It is just thick enough to prop up the wireform and add some needed support. Easily removable, but since it's install, I have not lost any balls over the rail....keeping fingers crossed. Sorry about the quality of the pic...dark room and I didn't want to remove the glass.lol
Has PinballLife stopped selling the super shiny pinballs? Was about to place an order so I have some in time for my LE but cant find them anywhere
Quoted from Drew13:Added the blades today. Looks niiice
Those look different where did you get those from? Look great, I have never really bothered with toppers or art blades but with BM66 they are both great!
Quoted from J85M:Those look different where did you get those from? Look great, I have never really bothered with toppers or art blades but with BM66 they are both great!
Tiltgraphics.com
Quoted from J85M:Has PinballLife stopped selling the super shiny pinballs? Was about to place an order so I have some in time for my LE but cant find them anywhere
No they are out until Feb. Some kind of quality control issue
Quoted from J85M:Has PinballLife stopped selling the super shiny pinballs? Was about to place an order so I have some in time for my LE but cant find them anywhere
I have been using these - super shiny. They have carbon steel and chrome steel balls in varying quantities
ebay.com link: Ten 1 1 16 Inch Mirror Finish Carbon Steel Replacement Pinball Machine Balls
Thanks a lot for the tips Piper. Do you loosen the nut and turn the screw to raise and lower the magnet? Then tighten nut to secure it? Also I noticed the 2 black dots on the nut and on the bottom. Were those from the factory for alignment purposes or did you put them there? Thanks again!
Quoted from thundergod76:Thanks a lot for the tips Piper. Do you loosen the nut and turn the screw to raise and lower the magnet? Then tighten nut to secure it? Also I noticed the 2 black dots on the nut and on the bottom. Were those from the factory for alignment purposes or did you put them there? Thanks again!
Yes and yes. Turn clockwise with a screwdriver to raise the mag. Then tighten the nut. Takes a few times to get to the correct level.
Good observation! Yes we marked it with a sharpie on the original positions. It will be different for everyone. Best to check with your finger or a flat edge (old biz card, etc) to see if there is any lip between the mag and the pf.
Next step is to add a mylar ring over the magnet, cling vinyl or pf protector.
We are going to try the new PET-G pf when it arrives from Germany in a few weeks. Im not a fan of the old pf protectors maybe this new material is better?
Quoted from MT45:Ice is correct, the only downside is you just don't know as I will never expose the PF to the ball.
At this point I have ZERO dimples after over 100 plays (not counting 4 very small marks on the magnet that were put there by Stern during factory testing)
OK ... update time. I'm working with the folks from Germany doing some test fitting of the new PF protector for BM66 (you're going to love it. Nice fit, total coverage and not too hard to install).
In the process of test fitting theirs ... I had to remove mine. While off, I checked the playfield carefully.
I DID find some dimples. Not deep ones like on my unprotected GBLE and not as numerous, but they are there.
Thought I'd update the record to show that although the protector provides excellent protection, it's not 100%.
As Vid always says wood vs steel ball, ball wins.
I would still (and will keep mine on) reccomend a protector if you're so inclined. They are cheap and look good and "do no harm" while providing the best level of protection you can get short of not playing your machine
To even see the dimples I had to light the PF just right. I tried to take a pic that made them most visible. You can not see them during play.
Quoted from MT45:OK ... update time. I'm working with the folks from Germany doing some test fitting of the new PF protector for BM66 (you're going to love it. Nice fit, total coverage and not too hard to install).
1) Does it have the wings for the turntable?
2) what do you have to take off the playfield to install it?
3) are you going to recommend any modifications?
Quoted from jfh:1) Does it have the wings for the turntable?
2) what do you have to take off the playfield to install it?
3) are you going to recommend any modifications?
4) Is the magnet also covered or is there hole for it?
Thanks for the update MT! I'm curious as well what needs to be taken off the playfield for installation. Partial depopulation of the playfield is always a little intimidating on a new machine.
Quoted from jfh:1) Does it have the wings for the turntable?
2) what do you have to take off the playfield to install it?
3) are you going to recommend any modifications?
It's well done and works great as I've tested it for about a dozen games so far
Wings for turntable have been added and they were perfect size, worked extremely well.
Magnet is completely covered (just like my homemade one) and works well.
Install is about 2 hours max if you don't have to stop and document, shoot photos etc.
Getting the protector around the crane mech is the biggest challenge because I chose not to remove it
I just slipped the protector "around" the crane and wiggled/wrestled it into place
If you know how to remove the crane, it would dramatically speed things up - I did not
As you slip the protector around the crane, you must place something under the ball or you will scratch the protector
These instructions are close but may not be perfect
Stripping the PF:
· Remove left ramp
· Cut zip ties on left ramp switch
· Remove switch from left ramp
· Remove right ramp
· Remove batcycle
· Remove pop bumper cover under batcycle
· Remove one way ball gate right orbit
· Remove unhook switch on right orbit, twist out of way
· Remove flippers
Installation
· Move penguin crane using crane diagnostic
· Slide protector over crane
· Slide thick sheets of paper UNDER crane ball or protector WILL GET SCRATCHED
· Work the protector at left orbit first and get placed into upper orbit
· Work spinner area next (challenging)
· Work pop bumpers and upper lanes last
20170125_191019 (resized).jpg
20170126_223250 (resized).jpg
Added over 7 years ago: Adding a small edit to this post. When I typed "remove ramp" I actually meant remove wire habitrail. The physical left and right ramps can stay in place. No need to remove them (they are bolted under the play field)
Added over 7 years ago: Note that you will want to get the leading edge of the protector UNDER the ramp flaps. This will make sure to keep the ball path smooth and as original to game design as possible. You may get ball hop if you place the protector material on TOP of your ramp flaps. To get them under the flaps, it MAY be necessary to loosen (not remove) the ramp assembly by the nuts under the play field. Right ramp has 2 easily accessible nuts.
Did a stream tonight. Fun! Spent about an hour and a half streaming BM66. FUN game. Had some holes in the code for sure. But fun.
http://www.twitch.tv/boomgo_pinball/v/117576659?sr=a
I'll archive it to my YouTube channel if you're reading this in the future;
Quoted from wyopin:Any fixes for the ball that gets stuck behind the bat mobile turntable?
Thinking im going to put a small piece of mylar at the top, just behind the turntable disc. That should raise it enough just enough to stop it catching. Happened once to me and it needed a small nudge to dislodge. But I need to steepen my game which may fix it anyway.
Just a couple of things I noticed on this game:
- Apron is thick metal (yay)
- New side rails being use - also metal. Looks like they may be the new standard. These are a really solid U shape rail and a big improvement over the old wooden rails. They are pre-drilled for the PF screws.
- Cabinet bottom is now painted black - also an improvement
- Spike board cage is also on Australian games
Quoted from bigd1979:Wow.... can u make me some those mods....
Maybe......however i have about 20 Catwomen requests.
Quoted from PiperPinball:Maybe......however i have about 20 Catwomen requests.
Well when your done pm me about some of the mb mods please
Quoted from bigd1979:Well when your done pm me about some of the mb mods please
Ha! That's my photo
Quoted from PiperPinball:This pic was on a different forum.
Made me think the magnet was too low on the playfield causing this pf damage.
Quoted from o-din:Not to worry. At this point it still a better game to just look at than to play anyway.
I have a few question about gameplay
1,I thought I herd Gomez say the the batmobile spinner had some good ball bearings thus has better spinning than the cube on avengers but when I see bm66 gameplay the car never spins as fast as avengers mabey that is a good thing with the batmobile flying off on some games
2,I always liked the way Tdk pinball would shoot the ball back around the left orbit when you completed gadget,is that still true on bm66
Thanks
Quoted from rockrand:I have a few question about gameplay
1,I thought I herd Gomez say the the batmobile spinner had some good ball bearings thus has better spinning than the cube on avengers but when I see bm66 gameplay the car never spins as fast as avengers mabey that is a good thing with the batmobile flying off on some games
2,I always liked the way Tdk pinball would shoot the ball back around the left orbit when you completed gadget,is that still true on bm66
Thanks
Regardless of bearing comparisons to TAV spinner, the batmobile spinner definitely seems to spin less from everything I've seen on my game and others.
Not sure what you mean about gadget on bdk. Will let another tackle that one.
Quoted from rockrand:1,I thought I herd Gomez say the the batmobile spinner had some good ball bearings thus has better spinning than the cube on avengers but when I see bm66 gameplay the car never spins as fast as avengers mabey that is a good thing with the batmobile flying off on some games
I know he said the spinner is now self centering compared to avengers. Don't think he said it was faster, but could be wrong.
Premium arrived today and now I'm an official member. As others have noted, CAT right ramp needed some screwing action and the Batmobile needed the same. Flippers needed a minor tweak to make them even. Outside of that, it's perfect.
Code .65
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