(Topic ID: 167576)

Batman 66 - Official Club Thread


By TigerLaw

2 years ago



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#7151 10 months ago
Quoted from jfh:

Operating doors were totally impractical (even if I had thought of them before framing), butI have the authentic "whoosh" effect as you walk in or out of the room. . It surprises most people and delights most Trek fans (even though I am mixing Enterprises).
I took the guts out of a battery powered TOS toy that has a remarkably effective motion detector and built a cover for it that also has two props (bottom of photo). I had tried using a motion detector hooked up to my home automation system, but could never get the sound to play fast enough or seem like it was coming from the door.
And when the room is in "display mode" Starship background sounds play softly so you feel/sense the hum of the ship when you walk in. Hitting the Holodeck button or asking the Computer (a silenced Alexa with the activation keyword set to "Computer") to turn on the arcade on powers on all the machines and stops the background ship noise. I can't get Alexa to understand "Holodeck" so I have to use "Arcade" or the name of an individual machine.

I'm still wowed by the slot table with the integrated pinball legs I spied in the other room. Such attention to detail is really cool. wow.

#7152 10 months ago

Yelobird,

I think your Batman has been hanging around the atomic pile too long. He looks like he's starting to melt. He can't even stand up he's so weak from radiation poisoning.
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If you want a more vigorous Batman head over to your local Walmart or Target and look for the DC diecast metal nanofigs. The have a Batman thats stands tall and proud. Best part is that he's only $0.97.
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He's mounted on a base thats a little too big to fit on the pile so use a dremel to chop off the base. Then put a glue dot under each foot and a few on his back and he's ready to stand up against the upper dome light and watch guard over the batcave.
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That pose kinda reminds me of this publicity shot they did for the show.
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#7153 10 months ago
Quoted from docquest:

Yelobird,
I think your Batman has been hanging around the atomic pile too long. He looks like he's starting to melt. He can't even stand up he's so weak from radiation poisoning.

If you want a more vigorous Batman head over to your local Walmart or Target and look for the DC diecast metal nanofigs. The have a Batman thats stands tall and proud. Best part is that he's only $0.97.

He's mounted on a base thats a little too big to fit on the pile so use a dremel to chop off the base. Then put a glue dot under each foot and a few on his back and he's ready to stand up against the upper dome light and watch guard over the batcave.

That pose kinda reminds me of this publicity shot they did for the show.

That's COOL!

#7154 10 months ago
Quoted from docquest:

Yelobird,
I think your Batman has been hanging around the atomic pile too long. He looks like he's starting to melt. He can't even stand up he's so weak from radiation poisoning.

If you want a more vigorous Batman head over to your local Walmart or Target and look for the DC diecast metal nanofigs. The have a Batman thats stands tall and proud. Best part is that he's only $0.97.

He's mounted on a base thats a little too big to fit on the pile so use a dremel to chop off the base. Then put a glue dot under each foot and a few on his back and he's ready to stand up against the upper dome light and watch guard over the batcave.

That pose kinda reminds me of this publicity shot they did for the show.

Looks cool need to take a look. I actually just set him there temporarily. Just haven't found time to heat up his rear end.... That is a Corgi car batman that someone on Ebay hand paints each one for 3$. He is designed to be in the seated position for the car but I planned to simply lay him on the hot bed of my printer till he softens and straighten his legs. He actually is a perfect scale height for the Atomic Pile with the railing just below his waist. He's on my todo list. Have been to busy lately to heat up his rear end and make him stand proudly! lol

(If you read this without knowing I could see this paragraph taken WAY out of context. lol)

#7155 10 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Looks cool need to take a look. I actually just set him there temporarily. Just haven't found time to heat up his rear end.... That is a Corgi car batman that someone on Ebay hand paints each one for 3$. He is designed to be in the seated position for the car but I planned to simply lay him on the hot bed of my printer till he softens and straighten his legs. He actually is a perfect scale height for the Atomic Pile with the railing just below his waist. He's on my todo list. Have been to busy lately to heat up his rear end and make him stand proudly! lol

The metal nanofig scale is a little too big. He wont fit on the lower level but if you stick him on the top level you dont notice it too much. He's pretty detailed for 97 cents.

#7156 10 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I'm still wowed by the slot table with the integrated pinball legs I spied in the other room. Such attention to detail is really cool. wow.

The first slot cabinet we tried didn't work because there is a slight dip/slope in the floor where the slot machine is.

"It's too bad it doesn't have pinball levelers on it" I said.
"Why don't we build a cabinet and put pinball legs in it?" said my wife.
And now we have a place to store bar dishes too.

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#7157 10 months ago

Question for owners who have upgraded their cabinet speaker.

I bought a flipper fidelity 8” coax speaker for the cab. Opted to try this over their typical subs. But there is no way possible this thing will mount in the cab.

THe stock stern cab speaker has basically no foam padding on the front that mounts against the cab floor. The upgraded speaker has a lot of padding. The threaded studs aren’t nearly long enough to mount this. I’m going to contact Michael tomorrow but wondering if anyone else experienced this with their sub upgrade as well.

#7158 10 months ago
Quoted from Sethman:

Question for owners who have upgraded their cabinet speaker.
I bought a flipper fidelity 8” coax speaker for the cab. Opted to try this over their typical subs. But there is no way possible this thing will mount in the cab.
THe stock stern cab speaker has basically no foam padding on the front that mounts against the cab floor. The upgraded speaker has a lot of padding. The threaded studs aren’t nearly long enough to mount this. I’m going to contact Michael tomorrow but wondering if anyone else experienced this with their sub upgrade as well.

I don't remember having to do anything special to mount the sub or having to use different screws.

#7159 10 months ago
Quoted from Sethman:

Question for owners who have upgraded their cabinet speaker.
I bought a flipper fidelity 8” coax speaker for the cab. Opted to try this over their typical subs. But there is no way possible this thing will mount in the cab.
THe stock stern cab speaker has basically no foam padding on the front that mounts against the cab floor. The upgraded speaker has a lot of padding. The threaded studs aren’t nearly long enough to mount this. I’m going to contact Michael tomorrow but wondering if anyone else experienced this with their sub upgrade as well.

Sethman. Are you sure you got the correct kit? All of the FF speaker kits I installed came with a plug and play wood adaptor. The provided wood ring fits perfectly over the existing screws with counter bored holes. Simply install and the new larger speaker fits perfectly to that plate. I would call them.

#7160 10 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Sethman. Are you sure you got the correct kit? All of the FF speaker kits I installed came with a plug and play wood adaptor. The provided wood ring fits perfectly over the existing screws with counter bored holes. Simply install and the new larger speaker fits perfectly to that plate. I would call them.

That’s how all of his high output kits work yes. They come with an adapter and a sub to go into the cabinet. The coax kit is different. It’s not a sub for the cab, but an 8” coax speaker. No wood adapter which I believe is where I’m running into the issue. I’ll give him a ring today. Thanks.

#7161 10 months ago
Quoted from Sethman:

That’s how all of his high output kits work yes. They come with an adapter and a sub to go into the cabinet. The coax kit is different. It’s not a sub for the cab, but an 8” coax speaker. No wood adapter which I believe is where I’m running into the issue. I’ll give him a ring today. Thanks.

It will mount. Push on the sub lightly to get the screws threaded. Once you start tightening the foam will compress down. Stern shortened the stud length for some reason. Mike said his future subs will have a slightly thinner foam on them to aid in installation.

#7162 10 months ago

Since the BM66 speakers have bring brought up again, am I the only one who is dissatisfied with the sound on BM66?? I know in the recent code Lyman tweaked the attract mode callouts. Before the newly recorded callouts were very obvious compared to the callouts taken from the show. Lyman has since adjusted the newer callouts to match the fidelity of the older callouts. But the overall sound of the machine is disappointing. Even with upgraded speakers the general sound leaves a lot to be desired. My KISS sounds like a THX home theatre. While my BM66 sounds like an AM radio signal. Both have the same FF setup for their respective platforms. I just can't get nice bass out of this machine. It seemed to have gotten worse with the last update. I'm really hoping this is a coding thing that will eventually be fixed.

#7163 10 months ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

It will mount. Push on the sub lightly to get the screws threaded. Once you start tightening the foam will compress down. Stern shortened the stud length for some reason. Mike said his future subs will have a slightly thinner foam on them to aid in installation.

Are you using his coax speaker in the cab or the usual dedicated sub? The other issue is the coax has a larger surround in general. His dedicated sub is a slightly smaller overall diameter I believe, will confirm when I call him later. So its hitting the wood cross member support pretty badly and that's also not helping it.

#7164 10 months ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

my BM66 sounds like an AM radio signal.

AM radio was big in the 60's. All part of the theme immersion experience.

I really can't say (probably because I can't tell), but I do know that putting in the Flipper Fidelity kit made a huge difference. The audio leveling got much better from .81 to .83 but there is still a lot to do including balancing the levels between the show audio and custom clips. And some audio over music still needs to be corrected. Last night I noticed that you could barely hear Bruce Wayne answering the Batphone during Catwoman mode.

#7165 10 months ago

Talked to Michael @ FF. Yea Stern shortened the speaker nails (mounting studs) on these most recent Spike games (think GB moving forward). That plus this coax cab speaker (a different speaker from his normal woofer) having a thicker gasket is my issue. Going to try softening the surround gasket tonight with a hair dryer to where I can get more compression on it and will report back

#7166 10 months ago
Quoted from jfh:

AM radio was big in the 60's. All part of the theme immersion experience.
I really can't say (probably because I can't tell), but I do know that putting in the Flipper Fidelity kit made a huge difference. The audio leveling got much better from .81 to .83 but there is still a lot to do including balancing the levels between the show audio and custom clips. And some audio over music still needs to be corrected. Last night I noticed that you could barely hear Bruce Wayne answering the Batphone during Catwoman mode.

Yes the FF made a Huge improvement in my KISS. BM66 was minimal improvement at best. I even got the correct back box speakers with the spacer ring. I tried adjusting the speech and music attenuation in the menu but I don't think they're in the code yet. No matter what the setting there is no difference.

#7167 10 months ago

I;m having a issue with multyball!!During this mode,I'll get 2 balls stuck in the Com.Gorden target,and ball search does no good as 1 ball is kinda stuck on the other one in the target! I have to slide the glass out enough to push 1 ball off the other!! Any one else get this??? And my FF speakers really don't make a huge difference either!!

#7168 10 months ago

I’ve been told by Stern that the cabinet speaker has a dedicated channel, like WPC 95 machines. If that’s true, I’m not sure we should be using a crossover with the FF kit. No question we’ve lost some mid-range and lows. Could be be mix, could also be an aggressive crossover. I sent Mike at FF a question on how to adjust it about a month ago but never got a response.

My next move is to bypass the crossover and see if it helps.

#7169 10 months ago
Quoted from jsa:

I’ve been told by Stern that the cabinet speaker has a dedicated channel, like WPC 95 machines. If that’s true, I’m not sure we should be using a crossover with the FF kit. No question we’ve lost some mid-range and lows. Could be be mix, could also be an aggressive crossover. I sent Mike at FF a question on how to adjust it about a month ago but never got a response.
My next move is to bypass the crossover and see if it helps.

Forgive my ignorance- does this mean you think the sound of the FF kit can be improved by changing the wiring to the sub?

#7170 10 months ago

I know for my KISS the FF directions specifically said to remove the factory crossover. Are you referring to bypassing the crossover from the FF sub?

#7171 10 months ago
Quoted from jfh:

Forgive my ignorance- does this mean you think the sound of the FF kit can be improved by changing the wiring to the sub?

Interested as well if anyone knows. I am Not a speaker guy but better would be great to know

#7172 10 months ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Since the BM66 speakers have bring brought up again, am I the only one who is dissatisfied with the sound on BM66?

You may already know this, but I know a lot of people don’t ...

There are bass and treble controls in Spike games - go to the Utilities menu and go to VOL. Bass and treble are there.

rd

#7173 10 months ago

Update from Stern today on code:

"Batman ’66 – The dedicated programming team is still working on another release around the New Year. This will include additional minor villain modes into the mix."

They specifically mentioned an upcoming 1.0 release for Star Wars, but not for Batman. Hopefully that means that the next Batman release isn't the last one before Lyman officially moves to Elvira.

#7174 10 months ago
Quoted from jfh:

Update from Stern today on code:
"Batman ’66 – The dedicated programming team is still working on another release around the New Year. This will include additional minor villain modes into the mix."
They specifically mentioned an upcoming 1.0 release for Star Wars, but not for Batman. Hopefully that means that the next Batman release isn't the last one before Lyman officially moves to Elvira.

It was posted/announced GOTG will be at 0.90 by the end of next week, if I was a betting man I would say we have at least 3 maybe 4 more official updates and after TWD latest drop we could see more after that.

#7175 10 months ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

I;m having a issue with multyball!!During this mode,I'll get 2 balls stuck in the Com.Gorden target,and ball search does no good as 1 ball is kinda stuck on the other one in the target! I have to slide the glass out enough to push 1 ball off the other!! Any one else get this??? And my FF speakers really don't make a huge difference either!!

Wait...do you mean your getting multiple balls stuck in the Penguin vuk?

#7176 10 months ago
Quoted from jfh:

Forgive my ignorance- does this mean you think the sound of the FF kit can be improved by changing the wiring to the sub?

Maybe, yes...Let me explain this a bit differently.

Normally, when you want to have a speaker dedicated to bass (aka sub, though let me get back to that in a second), you take the stereo signal (preferably mono, but stereo works), pass it through a crossover to eliminate all the dynamic range over a certain mHz, and send it to a large woofer.

Self-contained sub-woofers often contain built in crossovers, because some percentage of the time you will have a traditional stereo source without a sub channel, and the woofer isn't designed for high end, so the crossover is needed to only send low end signals to that speaker.

If you have a source that has a "low frequency effects" channel, or LFE, such as a Dolby Digital decoder receiver, you'll have a dedicated sub/LFE output designed to go into a subwoofer. That signal is designed for low frequencies, so it typically doesn't need a crossover.

So how does this all relate to pinball?

If you have a 80's era game like Bride of Pinbot, the sound card outputs the same signal out all the outputs. They tried to save money by putting a capacitor on the right speaker (high pass filter) and putting a cheap tweeter there, then sending the full signal to the left speaker with a more mid-range capability. They then sent the same signal to the cabinet speaker, without a crossover, and got some more midrange that way. To improve the fidelity further, you can put better mid-range speakers on your back panel, send the same full sound to both, then put a dedicated lower-range woofer in the cabinet with a crossover. (Note that with BoP 2.0, there is no need for a crossover, because there is a dedicated low frequency cabinet channel coming out the amp.)

If you have a 90's era game like Theatre of Magic or TOTAN (WPC DCS), you still have a single signal to both right and left speakers (same problem, cheap right speaker to save money is easy to replace and make more balanced), however, the cabinet speaker is already designed for lower frequency. In other words, similar to a LFE channel on a Dolby Digital setup, you don't need a crossover, there is a dedicated bass channel. Since you aren't using the cabinet speaker for any other purpose, a crossover is unnecessary in that situation. (Stupidly, Williams/Bally used 6" cheap throws for the cabinet speakers, so they sound like garbage, but if you replace with a decent 6" or even better 8", like FF, they sound great.)

Flipper Fidelity kits almost always have a crossover on the cabinet woofers. This is because most speaker upgrades are either pre-DCS pinball machines, OR they are modern Sterns which mostly do not have a dedicated low frequency channel. You need to take out the high end before sending the identical signal to the cabinet speaker.

HOWEVER...

In Spike 2 machines, what I've just been told by Stern is that they are handled similarly to WPC DCS, in that there is a dedicated cabinet channel, probably lower frequency sent to the cabinet speaker. I say probably because while I know it's got it's own channel, I don't know if they mixed it that way. Therefore, in theory, you shouldn't need a crossover...In fact, it may be mixed so that the cabinet speaker handles more of the lower/mid range. If we strip the mid range from that speaker, we may be losing part of the mix.

The only way for me to find out is to bypass the crossover and compare and contrast.

Does this make sense?

#7177 10 months ago

I’d the only way to plug an external sub to these pins with a pinnovators mod?

#7178 10 months ago
Quoted from jsa:

Maybe, yes...Let me explain this a bit differently.
Normally, when you want to have a speaker dedicated to bass (aka sub, though let me get back to that in a second), you take the stereo signal (preferably mono, but stereo works), pass it through a crossover to eliminate all the dynamic range over a certain mHz, and send it to a large woofer.
Self-contained sub-woofers often contain built in crossovers, because some percentage of the time you will have a traditional stereo source without a sub channel, and the woofer isn't designed for high end, so the crossover is needed to only send low end signals to that speaker.
If you have a source that has a "low frequency effects" channel, or LFE, such as a Dolby Digital decoder receiver, you'll have a dedicated sub/LFE output designed to go into a subwoofer. That signal is designed for low frequencies, so it typically doesn't need a crossover.
So how does this all relate to pinball?
If you have a 80's era game like Bride of Pinbot, the sound card outputs the same signal out all the outputs. They tried to save money by putting a capacitor on the right speaker (high pass filter) and putting a cheap tweeter there, then sending the full signal to the left speaker with a more mid-range capability. They then sent the same signal to the cabinet speaker, without a crossover, and got some more midrange that way. To improve the fidelity further, you can put better mid-range speakers on your back panel, send the same full sound to both, then put a dedicated lower-range woofer in the cabinet with a crossover. (Note that with BoP 2.0, there is no need for a crossover, because there is a dedicated low frequency cabinet channel coming out the amp.)
If you have a 90's era game like Theatre of Magic or TOTAN (WPC DCS), you still have a single signal to both right and left speakers (same problem, cheap right speaker to save money is easy to replace and make more balanced), however, the cabinet speaker is already designed for lower frequency. In other words, similar to a LFE channel on a Dolby Digital setup, you don't need a crossover, there is a dedicated bass channel. Since you aren't using the cabinet speaker for any other purpose, a crossover is unnecessary in that situation. (Stupidly, Williams/Bally used 6" cheap throws for the cabinet speakers, so they sound like garbage, but if you replace with a decent 6" or even better 8", like FF, they sound great.)
Flipper Fidelity kits almost always have a crossover on the cabinet woofers. This is because most speaker upgrades are either pre-DCS pinball machines, OR they are modern Sterns which mostly do not have a dedicated low frequency channel. You need to take out the high end before sending the identical signal to the cabinet speaker.
HOWEVER...
In Spike 2 machines, what I've just been told by Stern is that they are handled similarly to WPC DCS, in that there is a dedicated cabinet channel, probably lower frequency sent to the cabinet speaker. I say probably because while I know it's got it's own channel, I don't know if they mixed it that way. Therefore, in theory, you shouldn't need a crossover...In fact, it may be mixed so that the cabinet speaker handles more of the lower/mid range. If we strip the mid range from that speaker, we may be losing part of the mix.
The only way for me to find out is to bypass the crossover and compare and contrast.
Does this make sense?

Ummm, not exactly. Rotordave has it correct....Spike has a bass and treble control, most likely a fixed frequency shelving filter (means they picked 2 specific areas to boost or cut). Without getting too deep, the answer to jfh's question is a pretty safe "no". Mono, stereo, multichannel, dolby, dbx, etc. are simply imaging methods, with related circuitry to maximize the desired effect. These can get quite complex (such as dolby digital used in cinema applications, to quite simple (hi pass filter caps for treble, lo pass filter caps for Bass). Most of the kits I've seen for pinball simply deploy higher quality drivers (speakers) with a low pass network for the cabinet speaker, enhancing the bottom end (sometimes adding a passive, 2-way crossover to send things properly).

The output audio on the vast majority of pinball machines benefit from this approach. A complete exercise in futility to over engineer something that simply isn't there. Powered subs are extremely popular for a reason, great bottom end requires basic circuitry, correct driver size, AND the horsepower to drive it for a very reasonable price. Huge win/ win. Most end up turning them down, as they are simply too efficient in their given task (grief from people in other rooms).

I'm an A/V guy by trade ( a very long time)....toyed with the idea of actually using dsp and multichannel amplification to "create" better audio. After adding the $$$ up, and realizing the limitations of the content, came to my senses.

Use the FF or similiar quality systems, and adjust the built in eq. If you're looking for more warmth and bottom end, add the powered sub. Otherwise, respectfully, a waste of time.

#7179 10 months ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Ummm, not exactly. Rotordave has it correct....Spike has a bass and treble control, most likely a fixed frequency shelving filter (means they picked 2 specific areas to boost or cut).

Yes, I agree Spike has a bass and treble control. What I'm saying is that Spike 2 also has a discrete cabinet channel. I don't know if this is mixed differently or is identical to the backbox speakers. At least this is what Chas told me. If you know, please share.

Quoted from MK6PIN:

Without getting too deep, the answer to jfh's question is a pretty safe "no". Mono, stereo, multichannel, dolby, dbx, etc. are simply imaging methods, with related circuitry to maximize the desired effect. These can get quite complex (such as dolby digital used in cinema applications, to quite simple (hi pass filter caps for treble, lo pass filter caps for Bass).

I also have worked in the A/V world as well. I agree with this description, but along with imaging, there are also sources that have discrete channels (both within encoding standards from Dolby and others, like DTS).

Quoted from MK6PIN:

Most of the kits I've seen for pinball simply deploy higher quality drivers (speakers) with a low pass network for the cabinet speaker, enhancing the bottom end (sometimes adding a passive, 2-way crossover to send things properly). The output audio on the vast majority of pinball machines benefit from this approach.

Agreed 100%. If the default driver quality starts so low (particularly older generation machines), you don't have a lot to lose by just upgrading the drivers. There does come a point where you hit diminishing returns, though. I had Dave Zabriskie (sound designer for ToM and TOTAN) hearing my improved sound on those machines and he was surprised we got it to sound so good.

Quoted from MK6PIN:

A complete exercise in futility to over engineer something that simply isn't there. Powered subs are extremely popular for a reason, great bottom end requires basic circuitry, correct driver size, AND the horsepower to drive it for a very reasonable price. Huge win/ win. Most end up turning them down, as they are simply too efficient in their given task (grief from people in other rooms).

In general, I'm a fan of trying to reproduce intent. I don't believe the audio source has a range low enough to really benefit from too much in the powered sub universe but I'm willing to be convinced. I do like a good shake just like the next guy, but I'm a firm believer in garbage in garbage out.

Quoted from MK6PIN:

I'm an A/V guy by trade ( a very long time)....toyed with the idea of actually using dsp and multichannel amplification to "create" better audio. After adding the $$$ up, and realizing the limitations of the content, came to my senses. Use the FF or similiar quality systems, and adjust the built in eq. If you're looking for more warmth and bottom end, add the powered sub. Otherwise, respectfully, a waste of time.

The value proposition of Pinsound, in theory, was to add higher fidelity sources to the experience. I've never tried it on my WPCs but I might some day. Didn't I see plans for a subwoofer output built into the Spike 2 MPUs? It strikes me as conceivable that Stern is planning to increase the fidelity and potentially the number of discrete channels (i.e. mono to Stereo, Stereo to Stereo + LFE).

#7180 10 months ago

You're knowledge base is sound. Remember , encoding is simply for imaging effects (dolby digital theatres are still the standard, and "move" the sound quite well around the room. I've had the unfortunate pleasure of installing/ tuning 4 of them).

You are spot on in your assessment that these are "reinforcement" systems, not content altering. Physics simply won't let that happen. Fiddling can create minimal improvements, but using butterworth 24 curves and full blown, time alignment parametric eq's etc. w dsp is simply not going to help. If they ever encode the actual audio (David is doing great work on WOZ through Alien) then us audio geeks can open up our spectrum analyzers and have fun, although too much like work for me..I'll stick w blinky lights and engineering better gameplay on mine...

Until the content possesses the proper attributes, simple driver updates are by far the best money spent.

I still do this full time, however, moved into the medical field, dealing with voice lift, highly focused pattern control of mics, speakers, telepresence, noise masking, etc. Quite challenging, and pays the bills.

Did plenty of hang and bang Arenas, PAT's back in the day when there was money in it. Those days are long gone.

#7181 10 months ago

Sound seems to be the hot topic atm.
So to update my status from last night.
I took a file and cleared out all the extra surround material in the holes where the 8 inch coax speaker was going to be mounted. Heated the foam surround for a minute with a hair dryer and really pushed down on each mounting corner. One by one I was able to get a nut to grab thread and success.

I’m enjoying these 8 inch coax speakers Michael was experimenting with. As far as I can tell the sound coming out of the cab speaker is identical to the audio out of the back box ones. Getting a fuller, slightly amped up sound now with new speakers. It’s not THX /DTS quality and some of the mixes blew my eardrums out :p but I’m pretty happy with the slight bump.

#7182 10 months ago
Quoted from Sethman:

As far as I can tell the sound coming out of the cab speaker is identical to the audio out of the back box ones.

Yeah, that is what I was afraid of. On the brighter side, a crossover doesn't hurt at all in this case, because you're getting the full range on the back box speakers (assuming they are decent drivers).

I may bypass the crossover for the cabinet just to see...it just requires a little work because the crossover obscures the soldered speaker leads (and exposed leads)...but easy enough with a screwdriver.

#7183 10 months ago
Quoted from Sethman:

Sound seems to be the hot topic atm.
So to update my status from last night.
I took a file and cleared out all the extra surround material in the holes where the 8 inch coax speaker was going to be mounted. Heated the 4foam surround for a minute with a hair dryer and really pushed down on each mounting corner. One by one I was able to get a nut to grab thread and success.
I’m enjoying these 8 inch coax speakers Michael was experimenting with. As far as I can tell the sound coming out of the cab speaker is identical to the audio out of the back box ones. Getting a fuller, slightly amped up sound now with new speakers. It’s not THX /DTS quality and some of the mixes blew my eardrums out :p but I’m pretty happy with the slight bump.

I think you are getting improved sound due to the proper seating of the driver to the cab...so important.....great get. That, and softening the surround to insure maximum excursion was a great idea.

The crossover ( or lowpass filter , whatever they are using) will definitely be of benefit.
The more of the unwanted signal down there that can be removed, the better. All high end, and vast majority of mid to low mid frequency should be coming from the backbox ( everything above 600hz or so). Lower freqs are much more omnidirectional due to wavelength, so they can work pointing straight down just fine. Anything higher just never gets reproduced accurately.

Physics.....

#7184 10 months ago

Boring stuff.....apologies ( hence my need for pinball)...back to the bat channel!!!!

#7185 10 months ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Boring stuff.....apologies ( hence my need for pinball)...back to the bat channel!!!!

Not at all. Interesting stuff!

#7186 10 months ago

Got my bat signal hooked up last night. Thanks Doc.

04485C86-DC56-4A5D-868C-4CCCF99A9F4E (resized).jpeg

FB6A9D6C-52BE-4130-9FAE-AD4B94DE1CA1 (resized).jpeg

#7187 10 months ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Got my bat signal hooked up last night. Thanks Doc.

Looks great tatmam9999!

Your Batman66 looked naked on top compared to the other cool toppers you have on your other pins. The projected signal is a nice "virtual" topper.

#7188 10 months ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Yes the FF made a Huge improvement in my KISS. BM66 was minimal improvement at best. I even got the correct back box speakers with the spacer ring. I tried adjusting the speech and music attenuation in the menu but I don't think they're in the code yet. No matter what the setting there is no difference.

Can someone please explain exactly what speech and music attenuation are?

#7189 10 months ago
Quoted from Mojosan:

Can someone please explain exactly what speech and music attenuation are?

You can individually raise or lower the volume of the callouts and/or the gameplay music separately from the master volume.

#7190 10 months ago

New 0.84 code is out!

V0.84.0 - Dec. 6, 2017 ====================== - The GADGET BUTTON was not being applied to the mode in the main TV. This has been corrected. - The last shot to the turntable (batmobile spinner) to light BAT TURN wasn't updating the BAT TURN value in the display effect. This has been corrected. - The last shot to the turntable (batmobile spinner) to light BAT TURN wasn't boosting the BAT TURN value. This has been corrected. - Added HSTD for Egghead and Mr. Freeze. - Added shaker motor effects. - Fixed an issue where the hurry-up (cliffhanger) scores for the major villain modes were not being displayed correctly. - Fixed a bug that was prohibiting MORE TIME from being awarded again on the same ball. - MORE TIME is no longer awarded from MYSTERY if timers are frozen. - Fixed a reset problem that occurred when a small TV would be removed from the display at the end of a mode/multiball. - Minor villain mode select (TV insert on the left orbit/loop) was not being (silently) lit during multiball when the TV targets were completed. This has been corrected. - The atomic pile playfield multiplier timer was counting down when the timers were frozen. This has been corrected. - Added CHANNEL CHANGING for the main TV when small TVs are displayed. Press and hold the GADGET BUTTON for ~1/4 second to change the video, music, and lights that are associated with the main TV. - EGGHEAD mode (EGG FIGHT) with jackpot shot lit via GADGET BUTTON now allows movement of the jackpot based on standup target hits. Left targets (GADGET, TURNTABLE) move the shot to the left. Right targets (POP BUMPER, GORDON, TVs) move the shot to the right.

#7191 10 months ago

New code!

This code contains a "new" channel changing feature that will excite game players!
(Not sure what that is, but it was in the email. Maybe it's the mini TV displays we saw in .83?)

Edit: Never mind. It's in the notes below.

.

V0.84.0 - Dec. 6, 2017
======================

- The GADGET BUTTON was not being applied to the mode in the main TV.
This has been corrected.
- The last shot to the turntable (batmobile spinner) to light BAT TURN
wasn't updating the BAT TURN value in the display effect. This has been
corrected.
- The last shot to the turntable (batmobile spinner) to light BAT TURN
wasn't boosting the BAT TURN value. This has been corrected.
- Added HSTD for Egghead and Mr. Freeze.
- Added shaker motor effects.
- Fixed an issue where the hurry-up (cliffhanger) scores for the major
villain modes were not being displayed correctly.
- Fixed a bug that was prohibiting MORE TIME from being awarded again on
the same ball.
- MORE TIME is no longer awarded from MYSTERY if timers are frozen.
- Fixed a reset problem that occurred when a small TV would be removed
from the display at the end of a mode/multiball.
- Minor villain mode select (TV insert on the left orbit/loop) was not
being (silently) lit during multiball when the TV targets were completed.
This has been corrected.
- The atomic pile playfield multiplier timer was counting down when the
timers were frozen. This has been corrected.
- Added CHANNEL CHANGING for the main TV when small TVs are displayed.
Press and hold the GADGET BUTTON for ~1/4 second to change the video,
music, and lights that are associated with the main TV.
- EGGHEAD mode (EGG FIGHT) with jackpot shot lit via GADGET BUTTON now
allows movement of the jackpot based on standup target hits. Left targets
(GADGET, TURNTABLE) move the shot to the left. Right targets (POP BUMPER,
GORDON, TVs) move the shot to the right.

#7192 10 months ago

Our high scores sure don’t stick around very long lately. Nice problem to have.

#7193 10 months ago

This was the first time I found out via the Comissioner Gordon email thing before reading about it on pinside. Good job Stern!

#7194 10 months ago
Quoted from docquest:

This was the first time I found out via the Comissioner Gordon email thing before reading about it on pinside. Good job Stern!

Yeah, except the email got to Massachusetts before Colorado

#7195 10 months ago
Quoted from jfh:

- Added CHANNEL CHANGING for the main TV when small TVs are displayed.
Press and hold the GADGET BUTTON for ~1/4 second to change the video,
music, and lights that are associated with the main TV.

This seems interesting.

#7196 10 months ago

CHANNEL CHANGING is huge. Never seen that in any game before! Gives a whole new meaning to stacking.

Means if you're stacking a few modes, which happens allot, you can decide which of the modes to play by holding the gadget button. Start Penguin, then freeze, then multiball, then go back to Freeze, complete to Freeze tie multipliers, then back to Penguin to build up a freakin huge score, all the time multiball still going.

#7197 10 months ago
Quoted from frolic:

This seems interesting.

Yeah, but how do you do this without using a gadget?

#7198 10 months ago
Quoted from jfh:

Yeah, but hoe do you do this without using a gadget?

Maybe long hold for changing vs short tap for gadget

#7199 10 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

CHANNEL CHANGING is huge. Never seen that in any game before! Gives a whole new meaning to stacking.
Means if you're stacking a few modes, which happens allot, you can decide which of the modes to play by holding the gadget button. Start Penguin, then freeze, then multiball, then go back to Freeze, complete to Freeze tie multipliers, then back to Penguin to build up a freakin huge score, all the time multiball still going.

But aren't you already playing modes when they are on the mini TVs?

#7200 10 months ago
Quoted from jfh:

But aren't you already playing modes when they are on the mini TVs?

Yeh, but you have no idea what's going on with that mode unless it's on the main screen (so the last one started). Channel Changing sais it not only changes the LCD so that it's now the main display, but it also changes the music and insert lights. Basically it's like switching between stacked modes as necessary.

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