Quoted from Sidekick74:Thanks Walmart for my soon to be DIY Batmobile ($19) Topper. Now, how do I attach the helicopter ($8) inside the pin?
Tim
Look at the key post index. Lots of info on how to do this.
Neil
Quoted from Sidekick74:Thanks Walmart for my soon to be DIY Batmobile ($19) Topper. Now, how do I attach the helicopter ($8) inside the pin?
Tim
Look at the key post index. Lots of info on how to do this.
Neil
Quoted from Sidekick74:Thanks Walmart for my soon to be DIY Batmobile ($19) Topper. Now, how do I attach the helicopter ($8) inside the pin?
Tim
I used bendable craft wire purchased from home depot.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-50-ft-Aluminum-Hobby-Wire-50176/100192917
Just attached it to the helicopter and anywhere you want on the playfield. Mine sits in the back left corner and sort of bounces when I hit the catwoman ramp.
....and the first couple of questions:
1) Looked under the playfield to check the turntable assembly after reading a horror story on here about the wiring harness, and came across the harness stuffed in-between the turntable and bracket, frayed:
I've pulled the harness out of the way of the area, cut the frayed strands and use some 3m electrical tape to arrest any future fraying. Wires didn't look messed up inside, so maybe catastrophe was averted. If anyone could post a pic of how the harness should lay around the turntable & bracket area I would appreciate it.
2) The target ball on the crane isn't very shiny, is this normal:
Quoted from AUKraut:....and the first couple of questions:
1) Looked under the playfield to check the turntable assembly after reading a horror story on here about the wiring harness, and came across the harness stuffed in-between the turntable and bracket, frayed:I've pulled the harness out of the way of the area, cut the frayed strands and use some 3m electrical tape to arrest any future fraying. Wires didn't look messed up inside, so maybe catastrophe was averted. If anyone could post a pic of how the harness should lay around the turntable & bracket area I would appreciate it.
2) The target ball on the crane isn't very shiny, is this normal:
1) The turntable harness pretty much just rest in the position it’s currntly sat, to check its positioning and that its free of snags put your game in test either with the playfield up or on the service rails with coin door open so you can view the harness as it moves from switch to switch!
I’d also ask Stern for a replacement harness.
2) The ball on the crane doesn’t look amazing, not certain if you can change the crane ball I don’t see why it can’t be done if your handy enough, the simple option is take the crane apart and polish/shine/buff the shit out of it makes a world of difference!
3) Welcome to the club! Now update to the latest code if you haven’t already and enjoy!!
Quoted from TimO:Crap! Node 10 (turntable) just went down. Anybody got the troubleshooting steps for this handy?
Off the top of my head I can’t recall which board no.10 is but something that has worked for me the one time I had an issue was the universally recognised turn off and back on again.
If that doesn’t sort it try unplugging all connectors going in/out of the board, then give it a good old fashioned SNES/Mega Drive cartridge blow and plug connectors back in, boot up and try again.
Failing that get on the phone to Stern ASAP!
Quoted from J85M:Off the top of my head I can’t recall which board no.10 is but something that has worked for me the one time I had an issue was the universally recognised turn off and back on again.
If that doesn’t sort it try unplugging all connectors going in/out of the board, then give it a good old fashioned SNES/Mega Drive cartridge blow and plug connectors back in, boot up and try again.
Failing that get on the phone to Stern ASAP!
I tried all that except the phone call. I used the contact form on the Stern website. I’ll call on Monday unless someone here hands me a magic bullet.
Does this look right to anybody who’s had a good look at the board inside the turntable? Should that... bridge?...jumper? Whatever be standing up that high. It almost looks like that bent leg isn’t even connecting to the board. I can’t get at it without taking a whole bunch of stuff apart.
Quoted from Concretehardt:Hey that pretty trick...
My first thought was "I need one of those" when I saw it!
Quoted from TimO:Does this look right to anybody who’s had a good look at the board inside the turntable? Should that... bridge?...jumper? Whatever be standing up that high. It almost looks like that bent leg isn’t even connecting to the board. I can’t get at it without taking a whole bunch of stuff apart.
Is it bent, or broken? Can't tell from the picture. Bent, ok. Broken (leg not soldered to board), not ok.
Quoted from Concretehardt:Hey that pretty trick...
Quoted from PinMonk:My first thought was "I need one of those" when I saw it!
Thanks, wish I could take credit for it, but another Pinsider came up with it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-move-a-pinball-machine-alone/page/2#post-3845705
Further down in that thread you can see more detail pics of my setup that I made from his plans. A real back saver and makes setting up a pin by yourself a breeze.....
Quoted from PinMonk:Is it bent, or broken? Can't tell from the picture. Bent, ok. Broken (leg not soldered to board), not ok.
That’s the problem. I can’t tell without taking the turntable apart (a frightening prospect). If the turntable rotated just one more turn clockwise so the board was facing starboard, I could get at it or at least tell if it’s connected.
Quoted from TimO:That’s the problem. I can’t tell without taking the turntable apart (a frightening prospect). If the turntable rotated just one more turn clockwise so the board was facing starboard, I could get at it or at least tell if it’s connected.
If you can zoom in and get a non-blurry picture, it might be enough to tell. Do you have an iphone you're using for this? If so, aim at the transistor and zoom in, then hold your finger on the transistor on the screen for a little while and it will do an AE (aperature) lock and focus lock on the transistor instead of the auto focus which is locking on the chips in front of the transistor. It might also help if you put a flashlight behind it for contrast.
Quoted from PinMonk:If you can zoom in and get a non-blurry picture, it might be enough to tell. Do you have an iphone you're using for this? If so, aim at the transistor and zoom in, then hold your finger on the transistor on the screen for a little while and it will do an AE (aperature) lock and focus lock on the transistor instead of the auto focus which is locking on the chips in front of the transistor. It might also help if you put a flashlight behind it for contrast.
Thanks! I’ll try that next time I open it up. I was getting so stressed out, I had to button it up and take a break. Am I right in assuming this is just the sort of thing that would disable the Batphone and multiball release?
Quoted from TimO:Thanks! I’ll try that next time I open it up. I was getting so stressed out, I had to button it up and take a break. Am I right in assuming this is just the sort of thing that would disable the Batphone and multiball release?
A transistor with a leg not making contact can cause any number of weird behaviors, including that.
Back in June 17, I really wanted a MMr or an Aerosmith Premium when a pin that I had no interest in called BM66LE came available near me. I liked the topper on some pics I had seen so decided to take a look at it give it a play. I loved the look of the pin so I decided to take a chance on the code that everyone was mad about because Lyman coding it. I love it at first but I got tired of it pretty quickly with the old code after a while. Well my thoughts were right and it has turned out to be a great game and I really happy that it is in my collection.
I was now able to purchase the MMr (for a good price) that I have been wanting and it is pretty nice too:
Black Powder Coat Armour
Lasserific Topper
Upgrade Color Chip
Shaker Motor
3D Translite
Upgraded Backbox Speakers
Titan Flipper Rubbers
Tilt Graphics Side Panels
Tilt Graphics Magnetic Apron
Green Lit trolls
Two Headed Dragon with Blue eyes and red fire flashers
White LED Flasher added to light Dragon
Green LEDs under Trolls
Merlin Figure with lighted blue crystal ball
UV Lighting for castle destruction
Interactive Flashers on the long catapult plastic
I am happy I took the chance on the game and have an BMLE and bought that before the MMr. I am not sure I would be able to find a BMLE now. So finally have both games. And for the AS Premium well that one is off my list all together.
Quoted from TimO:Crap! Node 10 (turntable) just went down. Anybody got the troubleshooting steps for this handy?
Maybe try reloading the last s/w update. Just spitballing off the wall ideas here, but that might be the last act prior to calling Stern, given everything else already tried.
Quoted from taz:Maybe try reloading the last s/w update. Just spitballing off the wall ideas here, but that might be the last act prior to calling Stern, given everything else already tried.
I reloaded .90 successfully but no luck. It looks like it’s only effecting the turntable ball release and the Batphone which won’t respond to the ball making the game essentially unplayable. The turntable and Gillian vision all work fine which I’m thinking narrows down to the board and wonky transistor. Can anybody give me an idea of how complicated disassembling the turntable mech is?
Quoted from TimO:I reloaded .90 successfully but no luck. It looks like it’s only effecting the turntable ball release and the Batphone which won’t respond to the ball making the game essentially unplayable. The turntable and Gillian vision all work fine which I’m thinking narrows down to the board and wonky transistor. Can anybody give me an idea of how complicated disassembling the turntable mech is?
Just asking as I believe you only recently (last few months) received your game. Did you do the recall upgrade to the Nod boards with spacers and capacitors? Not that it will help you now but may have been part of the cause of your situation?
Quoted from Yelobird:Just asking as I believe you only recently (last few months) received your game. Did you do the recall upgrade to the Nod boards with spacers and capacitors? Not that it will help you now but may have been part of the cause of your situation?
I was unaware of that one. The only service bulletin I’ve seen since my machine left the factory (Feb 2018) is the one about shaker motors.
Quoted from TimO:I was unaware of that one. The only service bulletin I’ve seen since my machine left the factory (Feb 2018) is the one about shaker motors.
Just check this link from time to time to see if any new ones that apply to you have been added:
Quoted from J85M:Just did my playfield swap yesterday, anyone with a magnet like the one in my new playfield??
Yes, my magnet is exactly the same, solid everywhere, built Feb 27, 2018.
Quoted from dts:Yes, my magnet is exactly the same, solid everywhere, built Feb 27, 2018.
Do you feel it helps the magnet grab better?
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Do you feel it helps the magnet grab better?
Seems to grab the magnet well except for fast direct hits to the phone targets. I think it is similar to the few I’ve played outside of my own. I was looking at it again and it looks solid but from certain angles you can make out the outline of the core part of the magnet, where it stops.
8A45F9C7-101C-4C43-88D1-6395F81F9364 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from TimO:Does this look right to anybody who’s had a good look at the board inside the turntable? Should that... bridge?...jumper? Whatever be standing up that high. It almost looks like that bent leg isn’t even connecting to the board. I can’t get at it without taking a whole bunch of stuff apart.
I had Node 10 fail in the middle of a game a couple months ago. The same thing happened, all switches on the turntable became unresponsive. After troubleshooting I noticed that the D9 diode had become loose. It looks like you have the same problem.. Sadly, that board most likely going to need to be replaced and it's a real bitch to get at. After a struggle, I was able to get the board removed and put back in without a complete tear down of the turntable, but I'd get some guidance from Stern.
Also, if they do send you a new board, double check the dip switches to make sure they are in the correct configuration before you install it.
Here's a picture of my failed Node 10 board before I sent it back to Stern:
Could a couple of people upload videos of their turntable in test mode running the latest code please??
Not sure if my replacement playfield has some switches issues, the order in which the test seems a little out of sync, so if anyone could verify theirs or post a video that would be appreciated, thank guys!
Quoted from JefeJet:I had Node 10 fail in the middle of a game a couple months ago. The same thing happened, all switches on the turntable became unresponsive. After troubleshooting I noticed that the D9 diode had become loose. It looks like you have the same problem.. Sadly, that board most likely going to need to be replaced and it's a real bitch to get at. After a struggle, I was able to get the board removed and put back in without a complete tear down of the turntable, but I'd get some guidance from Stern.
Also, if they do send you a new board, double check the dip switches to make sure they are in the correct configuration before you install it.
Here's a picture of my failed Node 10 board before I sent it back to Stern:
Thanks for your post and pic! It’s reassuring to know someone else has successfully gone through this process. About how long did it take to get at the board and did you need anything other than screw and nut drivers to do it?
Looking for a Batman 66 LE Topper. I have a NIB Batman 66 Stern topper a value of 400.00 Plus I will give 1,000 CASH
That's a whopping total of 1,400 for the topper.
Please call if you are interested in my offer.
Thank You,
Jonathan Demare
Amusement Services of America
954-226-2107
Quoted from ASOA:Looking for a Batman 66 LE Topper. I have a NIB Batman 66 Stern topper a value of 400.00 Plus I will give 1,000 CASH
That's a whopping total of 1,400 for the topper.
Please call if you are interested in my offer.
Thank You,
Jonathan Demare
Amusement Services of America
954-226-2107
Basic Stern topper COSTS $400, but is nowhere near $400 of value. It's pretty crap, especially compared to the "real" topper you're seeking. It will be interesting to see if you get a bite on this.
Quoted from PinMonk:Basic Stern topper COSTS $400, but is nowhere near $400 of value. It's pretty crap, especially compared to the "real" topper you're seeking. It will be interesting to see if you get a bite on this.
OK 1,400 CASH. I will sell or repurpose the other nib topper.
Thank you for all of your help.
Quoted from ASOA:OK 1,400 CASH. I will sell or repurpose the other nib topper.
Thank you for all of your help.
Your the second person currently offering big money for an LE topper, unless one of you is trying to help the other out?
No I'm alone on this one. I guess there are two people asking for the LE Topper. I just saw his post. He did not say what he is willing to pay. I don't want to get into a bidding war with another pinsider. If he is willing to beat my price of 1400 cash or 1,000 cash plus a nib stern premium topper then he can have it. I have a hard time thinking the LE Topper is worth 1,400 but that is what I'm prepared to pay.
Thanks again.
Quoted from ASOA:OK 1,400 CASH. I will sell or repurpose the other nib topper.
Thank you for all of your help.
Just trying to help. I don't think an LE or SLE owner is going to part with arguably the best part of their machine for $1400. It would depreciate the machine more than that by not having it.
Now, alternate translites from one of the SLE owners, THAT I think you could swing for relative peanuts. But the topper acquisition is going to be a tough row to hoe. But if you succeed, by all means, post that you did!
Quoted from ASOA:Looking for a Batman 66 LE Topper.
You realize you are going to need the node control boards too, right?
You may have better luck finding an entire LE than getting someone to part with the topper.
Good luck with your search.
Quoted from ASOA:No I'm alone on this one. I guess there are two people asking for the LE Topper. I just saw his post. He did not say what he is willing to pay. I don't want to get into a bidding war with another pinsider. If he is willing to beat my price of 1400 cash or 1,000 cash plus a nib stern premium topper then he can have it. I have a hard time thinking the LE Topper is worth 1,400 but that is what I'm prepared to pay.
Thanks again.
I think at 1400 anyone trying to create a bidding war would have to be an a**hole, that’s a pretty damn good opening bid as it stands.
But as PinMonk says it could still take some sweet talking to loosen a topper from an LE/SLE owner. I say that as I am not a fan of toppers, I have never owned one or wanted to own one but BM66 changed that and the topper was one of the reasons I went LE instead of a Premium.
There are some pin owners that could care less about a topper. I happen to be on the other side of that spectrum. I need a topper on everyone of my games. If there is a person out there that would part with it. I'm over here. Just let me know.
Again I think spending that much on a topper is absolutely crazy However I think that kind of crazy got me into this hobby.
Quoted from ASOA:There are some pin owners that could care less about a topper. I happen to be on the other side of that spectrum. I need a topper on everyone of my games. If there is a person out there that would part with it. I'm over here. Just let me know.
Again I think spending that much on a topper is absolutely crazy However I think that kind of crazy got me into this hobby.
Honestly, your best bet is selling your Prem and just buying a HUO LE with the topper already on it. That will likely cost you a bit over $2k more, but it's a sure thing.
Quoted from PinMonk:Honestly, your best bet is selling your Prem and just buying a HUO LE with the topper already on it. That will likely cost you a bit over $2k more, but it's a sure thing.
I agree with this approach....
Quoted from ASOA:There are some pin owners that could care less about a topper. I happen to be on the other side of that spectrum. I need a topper on everyone of my games. If there is a person out there that would part with it. I'm over here. Just let me know.
Again I think spending that much on a topper is absolutely crazy However I think that kind of crazy got me into this hobby.
I totally understand. I was late to the BM66 party and wanted an LE because of the topper and it was uncertain at that time what the official Stern topper for the Premium would look like. I almost bought Vireland's SLE because of that damn topper, but was able to find a NIB LE for MSRP (thank you LevelUp Arcade in Oregon!). Anyway, sometime ago I did see someone selling the LE topper on eBay and I asked him whether he was including the node control boards and he said no. He sold it for close to what you are offering I believe, but without disclosing that it would not work (well, would not be integrated with game play anyway) without the associated boards. IMO, your offer isn't that crazy, but I agree with Vireland that it will be difficult to get the topper from an existing LE/SLE owner . . . it may be easier to get an entire LE.
I believe my topper post is the one you are referring to. I would be interested in the same price range. The node board that drives the topper would have to be included at that price. You guys may be right that no one will part with theirs. I do know that a couple of people on the boards have lucked out and gotten a topper from someone who didn’t have space for it in their game room or were just willing to sell it. Just added the SLE decals to my game today and want to finish it out with the trim, topper, and as many other parts as I can find.
800B67FD-FCCA-4DF1-A013-C6927F364548 (resized).jpeg
131556F6-53AB-4F8F-B1FA-B4A2281C5DB6 (resized).jpeg
B2F2079B-D9DC-4A5A-858E-1F3A066E0FC6 (resized).jpeg
2A6C0954-F97D-4E59-8CAF-65D7B84495F4 (resized).jpeg
A71904BB-97C4-430B-8331-ECABFEA23CD7 (resized).jpeg
7072A675-D3C5-413E-92E0-BEE907402940 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Texasff78:I believe my topper post is the one you are referring to. I would be interested in the same price range. The node board that drives the topper would have to be included at that price. You guys may be right that no one will part with theirs. I do know that a couple of people on the boards have lucked out and gotten a topper from someone who didn’t have space for it in their game room or were just willing to sell it. Just added the SLE decals to my game today and want to finish it out with the trim, topper, and as many other parts as I can find.
What's the point of having a fake SLE if you can't run SLE code (including the eventual SLE-specific topper code)? I believe that identity is coming from the system board that is flashed at the factory. It definitely "knows" it's supposed to be an SLE. Not sure how you can finish your project out with that hurdle.
Quoted from PinMonk:What's the point of having a fake SLE if you can't run SLE code (including the eventual SLE-specific topper code)? I believe that identity is coming from the system board that is flashed at the factory. It definitely "knows" it's supposed to be an SLE. Not sure how you can finish your project out with that hurdle.
I like the look of the game significantly more for starters. If the primary difference in the end is the SLE topper code I can definitely live with that for 5-8k less than the SLE price. And I wouldn’t eliminate the possibility of using the code either. Usually where there is a will there is a way.
Quoted from PinMonk:What's the point of having a fake SLE if you can't run SLE code (including the eventual SLE-specific topper code)?
What is this SLE specific topper code you speak of? Enquiring minds want to know.
Quoted from docquest:What is this SLE specific topper code you speak of? Enquiring minds want to know.
It doesn't exist yet, AFAIK. Assuming it's coming once they get the code to 1.0 for the game itself, probably on the 2 year anniversary, which is coming up in just 5 months.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-official-club-thread/page/198 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.