(Topic ID: 167576)

Batman 66 - Official Club Thread


By TigerLaw

3 years ago



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#8751 1 year ago
Quoted from Sutol:

I took the original prior to getting it done to a few places and was told it isn't powder coated.You could scratch the paint off with a key.One Paint company even thought it may have been anodised as it was that thin the covering.
I was contemplating getting the other ramp done so it would match up but the powder coat just doesn't have 'The Look' I want.
Going to do some more digging about to see if I can get the same look as stern.
Small video when I picked it up
» YouTube video

Ramp looks awesome Ty get that powder off and send it down to me, I will get it anodised which seems to be what Stern did on them from the factory.

#8752 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

Ramp looks awesome Ty get that powder off and send it down to me, I will get it anodised which seems to be what Stern did on them from the factory.

What's the difference between anodized and powder coated?

#8753 1 year ago
Quoted from jfh:

What's the difference between anodized and powder coated?

Amodizing is a Micron thickness layer coating that is bullet hard. Powder coating while cosmetically beautiful is not often used for high wear or tight tolerance applications. Only example that comes to mind is most lower playfield parts are zinc and clear. You would need a micrometer to measure anodized coatings vs a powder coat which most often can easily be measured and a bit softer.

#8754 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Amodizing is a Micron thickness layer coating that is bullet hard. Powder coating while cosmetically beautiful is not often used for high wear or tight tolerance applications. Only example that comes to mind is most lower playfield parts are zinc and clear. You would need a micrometer to measure anodized coatings vs a powder coat which most often can easily be measured and a bit softer.

This^^^^ they've been using quality powdercoat on habitrails that both are gorgeous, and plenty durable for application.

I've seen debates in the past about powdering ramps (as the ball won't travel the exact way up everytime). I recall several heavy hitters in the industry chimed in...a great read..in here somewhere, but the powder was still plenty strong.

A properly designed ramp with professional powdercoat applied will fly.....Matt's will amaze.....

#8755 1 year ago

I want to make my right ramp a Batgirl purple. The colors I like are all used in powder coating. Should I worry about powder coating?

Was thinking of Prismatic Powder's Super Plum

IMG_4198 (resized).PNG

#8756 1 year ago
Quoted from jfh:

I want to make my right ramp a Batgirl purple. The colors I like are all used in powder coating. Should I worry about powder coating?
Was thinking of Prismatic Powder's Super Plum

Zero worries, and beautiful color!!! Thinking the same for mine, but want to see the illusion red on the new ramp first.

Think WOZ and many, many other games that have powdercoated habitrails. The finish is super strong.. baked on...

#8757 1 year ago

Guys.

Check out pin data in the market place.

It makes updates to the game. Easy and with a factory look

The guy selling these is just getting into mods and the quality and craftsman’s ship are excellent

Help a fellow pinside out if you can.

Thanks

#8758 1 year ago
Quoted from Mayboyz:

Guys.
Check out pin data in the market place.
It makes updates to the game. Easy and with a factory look
The guy selling these is just getting into mods and the quality and craftsman’s ship are excellent
Help a fellow pinside out if you can.
Thanks

I presume you mean "PinDate"?

I already use the Tournament button space for an external volume control so this isn't for me, but I'm curious about the "Patent Pending" claim - it's a USB extension cable. I ran a 10' one from the backbox to just inside the coin door which works fine. And I don't have to worry about some joker putting a USB stick in an exposed connection and disabling the game.

I like the idea of making it easier to update code, especially for games on location. But if I get another Spike game, I'm just going to go with the $5 USB extension cable option. It's been very useful on Batman lately.

#8759 1 year ago
Quoted from jfh:

I want to make my right ramp a Batgirl purple. The colors I like are all used in powder coating. Should I worry about powder coating?
Was thinking of Prismatic Powder's Super Plum

I can support habit trails powder coat cause it will last the life of the game. RAMPS take to much impact and the ball tends to wear in and leave trails and wear marks. It may take awhile but it will happen, anodizing ramps will wear too. You can combat this by waxing them regularly but my suggestion is if you anodize, get an epoxy coating. Heres a picture of super plum ive done for refernce

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#8760 1 year ago
Quoted from jfh:

I'm just going to go with the $5 USB extension cable option. It's been very useful on Batman lately.

Ive been using Hergs LED/OCD mod on several of my games for years ( highly recommend, btw, if you really want to fine tune your inserts). The USB extension cable w open end living in the coin door is the absolute best option.

#8761 1 year ago

Are those who are considering powdercoating their BM66 wire forms leaning towards a metallic finish?

#8762 1 year ago

Best option ?

This mod is for people who want to finish there machine with the a classy factory finished look.

This removes the plug from your machine totally

There is a cover that covers the port when not in use.

It was designed to make things easier for the end user. There is more then just a cable here and I hope you reconsider this mod for your machines.

I have done a lot of testing of this product for the seller and I can say buy with confidence .

It’s a well built American product.

#8763 1 year ago

Nice job on the powered coating.

Looks great

#8764 1 year ago
Quoted from Mayboyz:

This mod is for people who want to finish there machine with the a classy factory finished look.
This removes the plug from your machine totally
There is a cover that covers the port when not in use.
It was designed to make things easier for the end user. There is more then just a cable here and I hope you reconsider this mod for your machines.
I have done a lot of testing of this product for the seller and I can say buy with confidence .
It’s a well built American product.

Maybe I'm missing something obvious. This seems to be a USB extension cable that plugs into the CPU with the other end routed to a molded insert that fits where the tournament button is. Is something else involved? If there "is more than just a cable" involved, I'd be interested in learning more (though I wouldn't remove my external volume switch for this on Batman).

It looks nice, but what's the practical benefit over a cable routed neatly inside the door, especially since you have to open the door to select/run the update anyway? And, if you had a game outside a home environment, why would you risk someone putting a USB stick in an exposed port that would essentially disable the game on a power cycle (most location staff wouldn't have a clue what to to recover from the message on the screen).

It would be nice if the manufacturers would route a cable to the coin door with some nice molded assembly to anchor it to the door since current USB placement makes it far more trouble than it should be to update code.

#8765 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Ive been using Hergs LED/OCD mod on several of my games for years.

Yes, LED/OCD boards are terrific and highly recommended for retrofitting System 11 (and other) games with LEDs.

#8766 1 year ago

This mod is for the home/collector market

Stern now sells a volume control switch that mounts on the coin door.

#8767 1 year ago

Pinovators makes the best external volume control,I think!!

#8768 1 year ago
Quoted from Mayboyz:

Stern now sells a volume control switch that mounts on the coin door.

For about 3-4x what the volume control switch mounted in the tournament switch hole costs. And with the ugly logo disturbing the look of the coin door. No thanks.

#8769 1 year ago
Quoted from jfh:

I presume you mean "PinDate"?
I already use the Tournament button space for an external volume control so this isn't for me, but I'm curious about the "Patent Pending" claim - it's a USB extension cable. I ran a 10' one from the backbox to just inside the coin door which works fine. And I don't have to worry about some joker putting a USB stick in an exposed connection and disabling the game.
I like the idea of making it easier to update code, especially for games on location. But if I get another Spike game, I'm just going to go with the $5 USB extension cable option. It's been very useful on Batman lately.

Where can you purchase the external volume control that goes in the Tournament button space?

#8770 1 year ago

** removed **
Correct info below.

#8771 1 year ago
Quoted from eharan:

Where can you purchase the external volume control that goes in the Tournament button space?

Found it. I'm almost positive it's PinVol. Don't remember if I bought mine at Pinball Life, but here's the version for Batman:

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4735

#8772 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Pinovators makes the best external volume control,I think!!

If you want headphone support, absolutely!

#8773 1 year ago
Quoted from jfh:

Found it. I'm almost positive it's PinVol. Don't remember if I bought mine at Pinball Life, but here's the version for Batman:
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4735

Thanks love it and as it happens I’m going to visit Terry today! Love those Bat-Gadgets!

#8774 1 year ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

The top braces I used are these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Heavy-Duty-Corner-Brace-2-Pack-15442/202034088. If you look closely at the pic above you can see where I spot welded the seam for strength. I painted them black so they wouldn't be visible.

So now we need a blow torch when buying NIB!

#8775 1 year ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

So now we need a blow torch when buying NIB!

Kinda sad I know.

#8776 1 year ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

I can support habit trails powder coat cause it will last the life of the game. RAMPS take to much impact and the ball tends to wear in and leave trails and wear marks. It may take awhile but it will happen, anodizing ramps will wear too. You can combat this by waxing them regularly but my suggestion is if you anodize, get an epoxy coating. Heres a picture of super plum ive done for refernce

All the powdercoating I've ever done is extremely durable. I did the stainless ramps on The Shadow around 15 years ago and they're still going strong with only very light ball trails (probably less than if I had left it stainless).

#8777 1 year ago

Powder coating, powder coating, powder coating! . Anyone playing their games since .87 update? How about some dialogue about the minor villain strategies, major villain options besides Penguin, mode stacking, etc. Someone please share some game play tales, even tall tales.

#8778 1 year ago
Quoted from taz:

Powder coating, powder coating, powder coating! . Anyone playing their games since .87 update? How about some dialogue about the minor villain strategies, major villain options besides Penguin, mode stacking, etc. Someone please share some game play tales, even tall tales.

When playing for points, I'll always try to get a shot multiplier on the right ramp and then playfield multiplier before really making progress on Catwoman. Then, PF x again before shooting the victory lap shots on Catwoman stage 1. Then you need a 3x on the turntable before starting level 2 (same for Joker) since hitting it to try and qualify a PF x will advance progress. If you can get a PF and combos rolling in stage 1 it's pretty good value.

Bat Turn is a priority with PF x on Riddler since you get lots of times to hit shots that double up for you. Extra if you can get a shot x on there.

Oh, and shot X on the scoop before SJP collect on the last round.

#8779 1 year ago

I think Batman hates me now after bringing WOZrr into the house as his new roommate? Tried playing several games but he would have no part of it, SDTM for you and your new girl friend! lol May be a long time till I see a Batusi in my future.....

#8780 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I think Batman hates me now after bringing WOZrr into the house as his new roommate? Tried playing several games but he would have no part of it, SDTM for you and your new girl friend! lol May be a long time till I see a Batusi in my future.....

Shame. Shame. Shame.

#8781 1 year ago

New code should drop today right?

#8782 1 year ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

New code should drop today right?

Well, all that was said in Stern of the Union was "this month", so I guess we have a 1 in 8 chance of it being today.

#8783 1 year ago
Quoted from jfh:

Well, all that was said in Stern of the Union was "this month", so I guess we have a 1 in 8 chance of it being today.

Seems like they like Wednesdays

#8784 1 year ago

I'm now combo champ, champ of all the major villains and a couple minor villains. Time for Stern to wipe out those achievements.

#8785 1 year ago

Nah nah nah nah Batman!

And Robin.

rd

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#8786 1 year ago

More lolz. Literally, I lol’d. What else you gonna do ...

I moved the Bm66 gently to put the characters by it. CRACCCCCCKKKKK goes the other front corner! You gotta laugh.

I moved it reaaaally gently too. The cabinet probably twisted slightly and snap she goes. Pretty crazy.

The first photo shows the first corner I repaired. Came up pretty sweet.

rd

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#8787 1 year ago

that sucks.

#8788 1 year ago
Quoted from rotordave:

More lolz. Literally, I lol’d. What else you gonna do ...
I moved the Bm66 gently to put the characters by it. CRACCCCCCKKKKK goes the other front corner! You gotta laugh.
I moved it reaaaally gently too. The cabinet probably twisted slightly and snap she goes. Pretty crazy.
The first photo shows the first corner I repaired. Came up pretty sweet.
rd

Mine cracked same spot

#8789 1 year ago
Quoted from rotordave:

More lolz. Literally, I lol’d. What else you gonna do ...
I moved the Bm66 gently to put the characters by it. CRACCCCCCKKKKK goes the other front corner! You gotta laugh.
I moved it reaaaally gently too. The cabinet probably twisted slightly and snap she goes. Pretty crazy.
The first photo shows the first corner I repaired. Came up pretty sweet.
rd

Dude that sucks! Are you tightening the leg bolts with a 3 foot pipe? Just kidding. That is just a bummer especially where you are. Even if Stern would help you are so far away it would take forever. Guess I should bump my machine more lightly now...

#8790 1 year ago

have you got the metal inside strengtheners?

#8791 1 year ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Mine cracked same spot

Wow!! Just when I thought we were done with splitting cabinets.

#8792 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

have you got the metal inside strengtheners?

Nope! Neither have any of the other 125 pins.

But this one will soon have some 2.5” screws through it, with a heap of glue, that’ll make it nice and manly.

rd

#8793 1 year ago
Quoted from rotordave:

More lolz. Literally, I lol’d. What else you gonna do ...
I moved the Bm66 gently to put the characters by it. CRACCCCCCKKKKK goes the other front corner! You gotta laugh.
I moved it reaaaally gently too. The cabinet probably twisted slightly and snap she goes. Pretty crazy.
The first photo shows the first corner I repaired. Came up pretty sweet.
rd

Way sorry to see that!!! your repair looked solid on the other side, btw.......I put the steel in awhile back....all 4 corners. No splits, but one less thing to worry about now.......

#8794 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Way sorry to see that!!! your repair looked solid on the other side, btw.......I put the steel in awhile back....all 4 corners. No splits, but one less thing to worry about now.......

I just took the approach, I’ll fix it if it happens. To be honest I never thought it’d happen lol! But it did.

So if you’re not confident in woodwork, I’d advise spending $5 on some brackets like we discussed in the last week or two, and getting the corners braced up.

What do they say? Prevention is worth two ounces of cure? Something like that.

rd

#8795 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Way sorry to see that!!! your repair looked solid on the other side, btw.......I put the steel in awhile back....all 4 corners. No splits, but one less thing to worry about now.......

I am getting the brackets on Pinball life but what type of screws did you use to install?

Mine just started - it was fine months ago and reading this made me wonder

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#8796 1 year ago
Quoted from PinBalt:

I am getting the brackets on Pinball life but what type of screws did you use to install?
Mine just started - it was fine months ago and reading this made me wonder

I took @ vireland's advise....just mark your bit so you dont go too deep...very, very solid

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#8797 1 year ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Nope! Neither have any of the other 125 pins.
But this one will soon have some 2.5” screws through it, with a heap of glue, that’ll make it nice and manly.
rd

What do you expect when you let Rugby players shove your pins around RD!

#8798 1 year ago
Quoted from PinBalt:

I am getting the brackets on Pinball life but what type of screws did you use to install?
Mine just started - it was fine months ago and reading this made me wonder

Here's the link to the screws. These are actual wood screws and not sheet metal screws. Check the depth against the top edge of the exposed cabinet first with the bracket and screw to make sure these won't poke through the other side (they shouldn't), but if you're concerned, add a washer:

amazon.com link »

Definitely use the Titebond III on the screws before inserting them to lock everything down:

amazon.com link »

11
#8799 1 year ago

This time I documented the repair, hope it helps someone out.

1/ get machine up in the air. Remove leg and plastic leg protector (2 screws) Now is a good time to put the PF up in the air (as I didn’t do in these photos ...)

E4E378D5-02F8-4D0A-84F2-F218A052CA5C (resized).jpeg

2/ pour heaps of PVA (that’s poly vinyl acetate, thanks high school woodwork..) down the crack. Give it time to run down the joint, pour in even more. It’ll run out the side. No stress, wipe it off. Won’t damage anything, PVA is water soluble. Don’t use PVA on outside furniture.

E7D891C5-0702-46B0-8EEC-9E2886CC03E2 (resized).jpeg

3/ put a sash clamp across the machine. This pulls the sides back in. Mine was out 1-2mm. Always use cloths to protect the sides of the cabinet.

BD314446-89B5-4F35-A90E-A1340E7E7DB7 (resized).jpeg

4/ these are cabinet makers countersinking screws. About 50mm (2”) long. Note the thread doesn’t go all the way to the end ... this is to pull the joint closer together. I always use square drive screws. Phillips head screws suck. Note the drill bit - see how it is around the same size as the lower screw shank (not the thread) This is a 2mm drill. You want to drill a pilot hole so the timber doesn’t split - but the screw still needs meat to screw into.

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5/ drill the hole and screw in the screw. Note how the screw countersinks into the timber. I touch up the screw head with a paint marker to match the black background.

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6/ screw the leg protector back on. Screw disappears! Magic!

B75EF3C6-3231-4223-83BA-A1A2BDCE5C9B (resized).jpeg

7/ now we need to pull the top (of the front) back in. Usually I would use a long sash clamp that would run front to back of the pin. But I loaned them out and can’t remeber who has them. Haha! So I have to improvise with this smaller clamp, pulling against the sash clamp. Not ideal .. but you have to do with what you have.

0EC007BA-E353-4DE7-8CAC-FA87D4FD8475 (resized).jpeg

8/ you can see it’s all pulled in sweetly. I’ll leave it clamped for a day to dry, then run the paint marker down the join to make it look 100%.

D595B1AD-C534-433B-BFD9-B05FA93B08D1 (resized).jpeg

Now, to make the joint really strong, another screw up the top would be ideal. But it will be visible when the lock bar is removed (but totally covered up when the lock bar is on) Or, you can slap an angle bracket on the inside, but a screw would be better. I’ll have a look and make a decision when the clamps come off.

Hope that helps someone.

rd

#8800 1 year ago
Quoted from rotordave:

This time I documented the repair, hope it helps someone out.
1/ get machine up in the air. Remove leg and plastic leg protector (2 screws) Now is a good time to put the PF up in the air (as I didn’t do in these photos ...)

2/ pour heaps of PVA (that’s poly vinyl acetate, thanks high school woodwork..) down the crack. Give it time to run down the joint, pour in even more. It’ll run out the side. No stress, wipe it off. Won’t damage anything, PVA is water soluble. Don’t use PVA on outside furniture.

3/ put a sash clamp across the machine. This pulls the sides back in. Mine was out 1-2mm. Always use cloths to protect the sides of the cabinet.

4/ these are cabinet makers countersinking screws. About 50mm (2”) long. Note the thread doesn’t go all the way to the end ... this is to pull the joint closer together. I always use square drive screws. Phillips head screws suck. Note the drill bit - see how it is around the same size as the lower screw shank (not the thread) This is a 2mm drill. You want to drill a pilot hole so the timber doesn’t split - but the screw still needs meat to screw into.

5/ drill the hole and screw in the screw. Note how the screw countersinks into the timber. I touch up the screw head with a paint marker to match the black background.

6/ screw the leg protector back on. Screw disappears! Magic!

7/ now we need to pull the top (of the front) back in. Usually I would use a long sash clamp that would run front to back of the pin. But I loaned them out and can’t remeber who has them. Haha! So I have to improvise with this smaller clamp, pulling against the sash clamp. Not ideal .. but you have to do with what you have.

8/ you can see it’s all pulled in sweetly. I’ll leave it clamped for a day to dry, then run the paint marker down the join to make it look 100%.

Now, to make the joint really strong, another screw up the top would be ideal. But it will be visible when the lock bar is removed (but totally covered up when the lock bar is on) Or, you can slap an angle bracket on the inside, but a screw would be better. I’ll have a look and make a decision when the clamps come off.
Hope that helps someone.
rd

Nice write up. While I Hope I don't have to use it, it's great that you shared the solution. Hope you never need to do it again.

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