(Topic ID: 167576)

Batman 66 - Official Club Thread


By TigerLaw

3 years ago



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#13151 4 months ago
Quoted from Chambahz:

Currently suffering from “my new game is the best game ever” syndrome.

I've been "suffering" a month now. No complaints

30
#13152 4 months ago

Right! My crane had got less sensitive, and had pretty much stopped registering up the top left side. So I decided to get to the bottom of it, and give you guys the tip on how to do it ... as most of the BM66 I play, the crane doesn’t work as it should.

Firstly - it is a very simple mechanism.

The way it works -
- one switch wire attaches to the spring via the 1/4 bolt at the top of the spring.
- one wire attaches to the housing that surrounds the spring. The one that is held on with 4x Allen bolts

21CA6DF1-572B-4C49-9FD4-FA8B0604E44F (resized).jpeg

Here is the underside of the crane - you can see the wire and the bolt that holds the spring in.

18958C6E-BF66-4910-A815-AF4353F65570 (resized).jpeg

The way it works is simple.

You hit the ball.
Ball moves spring
Spring touches surrounding bracket
Circuit is completed
Crane hit registers

Simple huh?

Basically the same as how the tilt bob works in every pin. Tilt bob touches the surrounding ring, makes a circuit, tilt is registered.

FIRSTLY!! Before you start working on your crane, move it to the centre. DONT MOVE IT BY HAND. Go into the service menu. Then DIAG - GAME - PEN. This brings up this menu - use the red buttons to move the crane to the centre. Test all the positions while you’re there.

BE7B3904-D3D1-4576-9A8E-CB773C78E496 (resized).jpeg

Try not to move the crane around while working on it! To do these fixes, you only need to remove the 4x Allen bolts and remove the housing. I suggest putting a rag under the crane lest you drop something on your PF.

So, back to the repair. I see a few potential issues that can cause “no hits”

1/ loose switch wires
My bottom one was tight, but top one was a little loose. Crane vibration could very well cause the bolts to loosen over time.
SOLUTION - tighten bolts up tight!

2/ Bad connection.
Metal tarnished on the switch wire tabs, not making good electrical contact.
SOLUTION - remove bolts, get some sandpaper and brighten up the metal on both the wire tab, and the housing itself. Then tighten the bolts up tightly.

40218EDD-2D8E-40D6-BCA0-854F8757DB66 (resized).jpeg

3/ tarnished spring - poor electrical contact
You can see in the photo below, my spring is a little second hand looking. I ran some fine sandpaper around it and brightened it back up. You want good metal-metal contact for this switch to work properly.

245F6B6B-7E6C-4F9D-B34B-E9650DFF6E4D (resized).jpeg

I did all 3 things, and my crane is back to “better than new!”

So simple.

Hopefully that helps some of you guys to make your crane nice and snappy again.

rd

Added 135 days ago:

** SEE FURTHER POST BELOW **

#13153 4 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Right! My crane had got less sensitive, and had pretty much stopped registering up the top left side, so I decided to get to the bottom of it, and give you guys the tip on how to do it, as most of the BM66 I play it doesn’t work as it should.
Firstly - it is a very simple mechanism.
The way it works -
- one switch wire attaches to the spring via the 1/4 nut on the top of the spring.
- one wire attaches to the housing that surrounds the spring. The one that is held on with 4x Allen bolts
[quoted image]
Here is the underside of the crane - you can see the wire and the bolt that holds the spring in.
[quoted image]
The way it works is simple.
You hit the ball.
Ball moves spring
Spring touches surrounding bracket
Circuit is completed
Crane hit registers
Simple huh?
FIRSTLY!! Before you start working on your crane, move it to the centre. DONT MOVE IT BY HAND. Go into the service menu. Then DIAG - GAME - PEN. This brings up this menu - use the red buttons to move the crane to the centre. Test all the positions while you’re there.
[quoted image]
Try not to move the crane around while working on it! To do these fixes, you only need to remove the 4x Allen bolts and remove the housing. I suggest putting a rag under the crane lest you drop something on your PF.
So, back to the repair. I see a few potential issues that can cause “no hits”
1/ loose switch wires
My bottom one was tight, but top one was a little loose. Crane vibration could very well cause the bolts to loosen over time.
SOLUTION - tighten bolts up tight!
2/ Bad connection.
Metal tarnished on the switch wire tabs, not making good electrical contact.
SOLUTION - remove bolts, get some sandpaper and brighten up the metal on both the wire tab, and the housing itself. Then tighten the bolts up tightly.
[quoted image]
3/ tarnished spring - poor electrical contact
You can see my spring is a little second hand looking. I ran some fine sandpaper around it and brightened it back up. You want good metal-metal contact for this switch to work properly.
[quoted image]
I did all 3 things, and my crane is back to “better than new!”
Hopefully that helps some of you guys to make your crane nice and snappy again.
rd

Very helpful thanks for taking the time to share this support tip!!

#13154 4 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Right! My crane had got less sensitive, and had pretty much stopped registering up the top left side. So I decided to get to the bottom of it, and give you guys the tip on how to do it ...

I've bookmarked this; thanks so much for taking the time to research and post this procedure!

#13155 4 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Right! My crane had got less sensitive, and had pretty much stopped registering up the top left side. So I decided to get to the bottom of it, and give you guys the tip on how to do it ... as most of the BM66 I play, the crane doesn’t work as it should.
Firstly - it is a very simple mechanism.
The way it works -
- one switch wire attaches to the spring via the 1/4 bolt at the top of the spring.
- one wire attaches to the housing that surrounds the spring. The one that is held on with 4x Allen bolts
[quoted image]
Here is the underside of the crane - you can see the wire and the bolt that holds the spring in.
[quoted image]
The way it works is simple.
You hit the ball.
Ball moves spring
Spring touches surrounding bracket
Circuit is completed
Crane hit registers
Simple huh?
FIRSTLY!! Before you start working on your crane, move it to the centre. DONT MOVE IT BY HAND. Go into the service menu. Then DIAG - GAME - PEN. This brings up this menu - use the red buttons to move the crane to the centre. Test all the positions while you’re there.
[quoted image]
Try not to move the crane around while working on it! To do these fixes, you only need to remove the 4x Allen bolts and remove the housing. I suggest putting a rag under the crane lest you drop something on your PF.
So, back to the repair. I see a few potential issues that can cause “no hits”
1/ loose switch wires
My bottom one was tight, but top one was a little loose. Crane vibration could very well cause the bolts to loosen over time.
SOLUTION - tighten bolts up tight!
2/ Bad connection.
Metal tarnished on the switch wire tabs, not making good electrical contact.
SOLUTION - remove bolts, get some sandpaper and brighten up the metal on both the wire tab, and the housing itself. Then tighten the bolts up tightly.
[quoted image]
3/ tarnished spring - poor electrical contact
You can see in the photo below, my spring is a little second hand looking. I ran some fine sandpaper around it and brightened it back up. You want good metal-metal contact for this switch to work properly.
[quoted image]
I did all 3 things, and my crane is back to “better than new!”
So simple.
Hopefully that helps some of you guys to make your crane nice and snappy again.
rd

Rotordave to the rescue! Awesome post, Stern should use it as the basis for a service bulletin.

#13156 4 months ago

Well, I'm happy to report that I'm back up and running again, thanks to Chas and my distributor. I received my replacement Node 10 board yesterday; it took me about 1 1/2 hours to complete (which I didn't think was too bad for a novice, but I have no desire whatsoever to have to ever go through that procedure again!).

Just a tip in case you ever need to do the same thing; make absolutely certain the set the dip switch into the correct position. I remembered to do this at the last minute, as it surely would have sucked if I hadn't.

#13157 4 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Right! My crane had got less sensitive, and had pretty much stopped registering up the top left side. So I decided to get to the bottom of it, and give you guys the tip on how to do it ... as most of the BM66 I play, the crane doesn’t work as it should.
Firstly - it is a very simple mechanism.
The way it works -
- one switch wire attaches to the spring via the 1/4 bolt at the top of the spring.
- one wire attaches to the housing that surrounds the spring. The one that is held on with 4x Allen bolts
[quoted image]
Here is the underside of the crane - you can see the wire and the bolt that holds the spring in.
[quoted image]
The way it works is simple.
You hit the ball.
Ball moves spring
Spring touches surrounding bracket
Circuit is completed
Crane hit registers
Simple huh?
Basically the same as how the tilt bob works in every pin. Tilt bob touches the surrounding ring, makes a circuit, tilt is registered.
FIRSTLY!! Before you start working on your crane, move it to the centre. DONT MOVE IT BY HAND. Go into the service menu. Then DIAG - GAME - PEN. This brings up this menu - use the red buttons to move the crane to the centre. Test all the positions while you’re there.
[quoted image]
Try not to move the crane around while working on it! To do these fixes, you only need to remove the 4x Allen bolts and remove the housing. I suggest putting a rag under the crane lest you drop something on your PF.
So, back to the repair. I see a few potential issues that can cause “no hits”
1/ loose switch wires
My bottom one was tight, but top one was a little loose. Crane vibration could very well cause the bolts to loosen over time.
SOLUTION - tighten bolts up tight!
2/ Bad connection.
Metal tarnished on the switch wire tabs, not making good electrical contact.
SOLUTION - remove bolts, get some sandpaper and brighten up the metal on both the wire tab, and the housing itself. Then tighten the bolts up tightly.
[quoted image]
3/ tarnished spring - poor electrical contact
You can see in the photo below, my spring is a little second hand looking. I ran some fine sandpaper around it and brightened it back up. You want good metal-metal contact for this switch to work properly.
[quoted image]
I did all 3 things, and my crane is back to “better than new!”
So simple.
Hopefully that helps some of you guys to make your crane nice and snappy again.
rd

This is a sweet breakdown dave...but how about if the crane is TOO sensitive?

Doesn't look like there's a way to move the alignment of the spring or bracket?

#13158 4 months ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

This is a sweet breakdown dave...but how about if the crane is TOO sensitive?

Make everything dirty?

#13159 4 months ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

Make everything dirty?

LOL yeah I'll go drag it around on 26th street.

#13160 4 months ago

Excellent post,rotordave!!

#13161 4 months ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

This is a sweet breakdown dave...but how about if the crane is TOO sensitive?
Doesn't look like there's a way to move the alignment of the spring or bracket?

Hi ya Levi! I think the only way it could be too sensitive would be if the spring was buggered (broken or weak) or the bolt up the top wasn’t holding it tightly. Yeah - that’s the only thing it could really be, that bolt would have to be loose and the spring could flop around and touch the sides of the bracket.

rd

#13162 4 months ago

If there's one thing that I find is nearly always a letdown with Stern games, it's the manual and/or auto plunger mechs.
My luck with NIB games and getting these things to work properly is not so good.
I noticed both of these were less than adequate with the game I picked up last weekend (second hand though, not NIB this time).
A friend of mine (at least he used to be before he put up the GC this evening) had some various shooter rod springs that made all the difference on the manual plunger. We ended up using one that's like the second strongest? -and it's awesome. The ball finally rockets around the orbits when you perform the super skill shot (holding down the left button). Previously it struggled to make it all the way around the orbits to the left flipper.
The auto plunger was simple to fix (it was also weak. Seemed to bounce around alot in the lane and lose steam.) -we just adjusted the power setting in the game option. (Option 270 if I'm not mistaken)

Anyway, some pretty basic stuff for most of you guys I'm sure, but hope it's helpful for anyone who's also frustrated with the stock shooter rod springs (green?) that are included wth the game.

#13163 4 months ago

Both my auto and manual plunger suck right out of the box. Auto plunger is eradic and the manual feels rough and weak. So, you increased the auto setting and changed the spring? What spring do I buy and where?

#13164 4 months ago
Quoted from Chambahz:

If there's one thing that I find is nearly always a letdown with Stern games, it's the manual and/or auto plunger mechs.
My luck with NIB games and getting these things to work properly is not so good.
I noticed both of these were less than adequate with the game I picked up last weekend (second hand though, not NIB this time).
A friend of mine (at least he used to be before he put up the GC this evening) had some various shooter rod springs that made all the difference on the manual plunger. We ended up using one that's like the second strongest? -and it's awesome. The ball finally rockets around the orbits when you perform the super skill shot (holding down the left button). Previously it struggled to make it all the way around the orbits to the left flipper.
The auto plunger was simple to fix (it was also weak. Seemed to bounce around alot in the lane and lose steam.) -we just adjusted the power setting in the game option. (Option 270 if I'm not mistaken)
Anyway, some pretty basic stuff for most of you guys I'm sure, but hope it's helpful for anyone who's also frustrated with the stock shooter rod springs (green?) that are included wth the game.

Quoted from Budman:

Both my auto and manual plunger suck right out of the box. Auto plunger is eradic and the manual feels rough and weak. So, you increased the auto setting and changed the spring? What spring do I buy and where?

I've had my NIB BM66 for about 2 1/2 weeks now, and I can honestly say that the plungers on mine are not a problem; manual is good and strong, and auto gets the job done as well. Do you have early production games perhaps? Maybe this was something that was addressed during later runs?

#13165 4 months ago

Mine was just built...April 2019

#13166 4 months ago

Yeah, mine was built in Dec 2017
Default spring was green. We tried replacing it with a blue one, but the upgraded further to a red one which I think may too too much, but seems to play the best. (Didn’t have one level down... orange?)

And for the autoplunger, it’s game-specific settings. Number 269 and 270 I believe.
269 will reduce the trough eject power, saving you wear in the shooter lane.
270 will allow you to increase the auto plunger.

#13167 4 months ago

I have read a little about the crane stop locations "going out " of alignment.

Mines good on the way out yet on the way back it sits about half inch too far to the right at all stops, which of course occasionally traps the ball on furthest right stop.
Not a huge deal, but if easy fixable I would like to sort it as , like a lot of us here I am just a little OCD

I read about adding tape to opto flag, does anyone have an image of this type of fix. Or is there a better fix I have missed. It's not a sticky topic and I have read a fair amount of this thread
before posting this.

Help appreciated

#13168 4 months ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Go to the service menu and set the Penguin Lag Adjustment setting to zero and power cycle the machine.

This worked for me.

#13169 4 months ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

This worked for me.

Thanks.
That helped a little, still not perfect but moved the stop points enough so far right let's the ball through now

#13170 4 months ago
Quoted from Wotto:

I have read a little about the crane stop locations "going out " of alignment.
Mines good on the way out yet on the way back it sits about half inch too far to the right at all stops, which of course occasionally traps the ball on furthest right stop.
Not a huge deal, but if easy fixable I would like to sort it as , like a lot of us here I am just a little OCD
I read about adding tape to opto flag, does anyone have an image of this type of fix. Or is there a better fix I have missed. It's not a sticky topic and I have read a fair amount of this thread
before posting this.
Help appreciated

No tape is needed and this is a super easy fix. Just go into your adjustment settings for the penguin crane and set all the numbers to zero and it will put your crane exactly over each light. Also, the ball will not get trapped on the furtherest right side ever. I’m not sure why Lyman hasn’t set them all to zero??? Causes people to try taping optos and all kinds of unnecessary fiddling. The settings menu adjustments are all that’s needed. After that it will work perfectly as intended every time.

(I see someone added this as well above after I posted too.)

#13171 4 months ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

No tape is needed and this is a super easy fix. Just go into your adjustment settings for the penguin crane and set all the numbers to zero and it will put your crane exactly over each light. Also, the ball will not get trapped on the furtherest right side ever. I’m not sure why Lyman hasn’t set them all to zero??? Causes people to try taping optos and all kinds of unnecessary fiddling. The settings menu adjustments are all that’s needed. After that it will work perfectly as intended every time.
(I see someone added this as well above after I posted too.)

I moved the delay to 0 and it's still a bit off. Any other suggestions aside from tape?

#13172 4 months ago

Lag set to zero.
How it sits on the way out.....

20190503_222927.jpg
#13173 4 months ago

Same location on the way back...again its not a huge deal, would be nice to have it right thats all

20190503_222938.jpg

#13174 4 months ago

I had similar issue - I did two things.

1) set lag to 0
2) fiddled with the adjustment tab that triggers the opts.

Between those two, I got the crane to stop a little off center for both the clockwise and anti-clockwise rotations. Without physically modifying the adjustment tab, that was the best I was going to get. I accepted that a little tiny bit off center for both directions was better than dead on in one direction and noticeably off in the other.

#13175 4 months ago
Quoted from Wotto:

Same location on the way back...again its not a huge deal, would be nice to have it right thats all
[quoted image]

Unfortunately that’s the best one can do with the settings.

Fiddling with the adjustment tab that triggers optos can possibly get it closer to center coming back. As long as the ball clears on the far right and doesn’t cause the ball clear sequence to happen, all good.

#13176 4 months ago
Quoted from iohonnes:

I had similar issue - I did two things.
1) set lag to 0
2) fiddled with the adjustment tab that triggers the opts.
Between those two, I got the crane to stop a little off center for both the clockwise and anti-clockwise rotations. Without physically modifying the adjustment tab, that was the best I was going to get. I accepted that a little tiny bit off center for both directions was better than dead on in one direction and noticeably off in the other.

Mine is just like wotto, dead center on the way out and significantly off on the way back. What kind of "fiddling" did you do to get your results?

#13177 4 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Mine is just like wotto, dead center on the way out and significantly off on the way back. What kind of "fiddling" did you do to get your results?

The crane positions are controlled by a tab that is on the underside of the assembly. It rides through the optos; when the optos trigger, the CPU stops the motor. That tab is adjustable side to side; if you loosen the screw, you can move the tab to make fine adjustments.

#13178 4 months ago

** more crane fix tips! **

I wanted to add this to the “key post” above but couldn’t edit it after a day.

Here is another tip in the crane fixing post.

4/ your crane is loose!
Hold your crane at the end. Very gently move it slightly from side to side. There should be no “slop” .. it does move a little, but it should be pretty tight.

This was my main problem, and why the crane wasn’t registering at the left most position, as shown in this picture.

1776BE69-C169-4180-A6D2-2B2F29C706A2 (resized).jpeg

When you shot the ball and it hit the crane ball, the crane moved and absorbed the shock of the shot, so there was no way that the spring would move enough to touch the ring and register the shot.

This was only evident in the left-most position, as when the crane is in the other positions, you are hitting the ball more “head on” and the shock is transferred UP the crane, not across it, if you get my drift.

So, here’s how to fix it. Again - simple.

On the bottom of the mechanism, there is a 1/4” bolt. Mine had worked slightly loose. With one hand, hold the crane tightly so it doesn’t move (above the PF) and with the other hand tighten the bolt up nice and tight - and problem solved. Simple as that. Amazingly, there is no spring washer on this bolt to keep it tight. I will add one next time the playfield is raised.

20264A85-44B3-436A-A036-78173FAE0746 (resized).jpeg

Looking at the diagram of the crane in the manual, there is a set screw at the top of the crane shaft holding the crane on. I imagine this could also come loose, so that would be the second thing to check if your bottom bolt is tight. Mine was fine - all the slop was from the bottom of the mechanism.

Again, hope that helps someone!

rd

#13179 4 months ago

My premium shipped today. So excited to join the club!

#13180 4 months ago

Where is the flipper coil settings located at. I didn't see it in the adjustment menu.

#13181 4 months ago

So I did adjust the opto flag ever so slightly ,it is just now slightly to the right if you can tell in the image. With lag set at zero I now get the results in the other image. And that'll do fine . Thanks for tips

20190504_141246.jpg20190504_142937.jpg

#13182 4 months ago
Quoted from Wotto:

So I did adjust the opto flag ever so slightly ,it is just now slightly to the right if you can tell in the image. With lag set at zero I now get the results in the other image. And that'll do fine . Thanks for tips
[quoted image][quoted image]

Wow, that’s the best I’ve seen. Almost right on the money! Can you mark exactly what you adjusted on the photo or point your finger on the exact adjustment?

#13183 4 months ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

Wow, that’s the best I’ve seen. Almost right on the money! Can you mark exactly what you adjusted on the photo or point your finger on the exact adjustment?

Be easiest for people to look at where screw is tightened rather then look at the opto area itself

20190505_010830.jpg
#13184 4 months ago

About to install Cliffs on Penguin and Bat signal.

Any suggestions on installation. Does ramp have to come off for Penguin? Do I just remove the one post.

How about Bat signal, do I have to remove the plastic above it? How about the small metal square? Do I have to make holes with the 3 screws?

#13185 4 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

About to install Cliffs on Penguin and Bat signal.
Any suggestions on installation. Does ramp have to come off for Penguin? Do I just remove the one post.
How about Bat signal, do I have to remove the plastic above it? How about the small metal square? Do I have to make holes with the 3 screws?

Install is the same as BTDK for the scoop.Put the cliffy in from underneath the scoop. Some instructions below.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/btdk.htm

Also here too

http://www.passionforpinball.com/Batman-66-protectors.htm

#13186 4 months ago
Quoted from Sutol:

Install is the same as BTDK for the scoop.Put the cliffy in from underneath the scoop. Some instructions below.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/btdk.htm
Also here too
http://www.passionforpinball.com/Batman-66-protectors.htm

Looks like for Penguin hole, you remove the ramp and look loosen the ball guide, then install cliffy on the topside of pf, and reassemble everything?

For the Batsignal, it's a little unclear.

Looks like VUK has to be removed to put that square protector in, and from the tap in screws, I'm assuming I'm screwing new holes?

Also, what about the protector you see from the top of the of, how does that go in?

Cliffys instructions are terrible.

#13187 4 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Looks like for Penguin hole, you remove the ramp and look loosen the ball guide, then install cliffy on the topside of pf, and reassemble everything?
For the Batsignal, it's a little unclear.
Looks like VUK has to be removed to put that square protector in, and from the tap in screws, I'm assuming I'm screwing new holes?
Also, what about the protector you see from the top of the of, how does that go in?
Cliffys instructions are terrible.

Quoted from thundergod76:

I followed these instructions posted on Cliffy's site. I don't remember having any major issues.
1. Push the crane to the left side of the playfield.
2. Remove the right wireform and raise playfield.
3. Remove the vuk and trough assembly from the bottom.
4. Remove the single post located at the right front corner of the hole.
5. Remove the locking nut on the ball guide post to the right of the hole.
6. Loosen the 2 remaining locking nuts on the ball guide assembly to allow some vertical play. No need to remove!
7. Lower the playfield and lift the ball guide up and slide the protector into place making sure the notch fits around the right side ball guide post.
8. Re-assemble in reverse order.
9. Play!

#13188 4 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Looks like for Penguin hole, you remove the ramp and look loosen the ball guide, then install cliffy on the topside of pf, and reassemble everything?
For the Batsignal, it's a little unclear.
Looks like VUK has to be removed to put that square protector in, and from the tap in screws, I'm assuming I'm screwing new holes?
Also, what about the protector you see from the top of the of, how does that go in?
Cliffys instructions are terrible.

Totally agree. I need better pictures and a lot more detail in the instructions and a video! Heck, I would pay someone $100 to put them in for me. I recently installed the Atomic Pile from the Mod Couple and had some troubles due to my fat fingers and less than adequate pics from the instructions.

#13189 4 months ago

Got that...

But what about the Batsignal protectors (2 pieces)?

#13190 4 months ago

Here is Cliffy's webpage for the BM66 protectors installation & pics:

http://www.passionforpinball.com/Batman-66-protectors.htm

For the Penguin scoop refer back to the BMDK instructions

#13191 4 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

About to install Cliffs on Penguin and Bat signal.
Any suggestions on installation. Does ramp have to come off for Penguin? Do I just remove the one post.
How about Bat signal, do I have to remove the plastic above it? How about the small metal square? Do I have to make holes with the 3 screws?

Wizards Castle, 12:30 into my video I talk about the Cliffy installation and what needs to be removed on how to install.

#13192 4 months ago

Thanks man, this will no doubt help!

#13193 4 months ago
Quoted from wiggy07:

Wizards Castle, 12:30 into my video I talk about the Cliffy installation and what needs to be removed on how to install.

Funny, I just watched it 5 minutes ago.

Thank you so much for taking the time to put these videos together. It's a very help resource, and I've actually used a few of your videos in the past to learn some tricks.

Keep up the great work!

#13194 4 months ago

Wow that sold fast! I hope the seller isn’t filled with regret when he watches the new owner load it up.

A0923FBB-F9F2-4060-AFEE-40D0881408AD (resized).jpeg
#13195 4 months ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Wow that sold fast! I hope the seller isn’t filled with regret when he watches the new owner load it up.
[quoted image]

Seriously.....those toppers on the LE and SLE.....

FC893B6D-C8CB-460E-AE99-9A731E09B7EB (resized).png
#13196 4 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Funny, I just watched it 5 minutes ago.
Thank you so much for taking the time to put these videos together. It's a very help resource, and I've actually used a few of your videos in the past to learn some tricks.
Keep up the great work!

Thanks Wizards Castle, much appreciated of the positive comments about the videos.

#13197 4 months ago

Not that these photos will help you install your Cliffys, but might give you an idea of what is required.

For the Penguin, remove the wireform, remove the post and VUK underneath, and loosen the nuts on the metal ball guide that are going to be in your way.

For Batsignal, just remove two bolts that hold plastic, then two screws for the metal thingy, and one screw holding down the ball guide.

Not the easiest Cliffys I've installed, but not too terrible if you follow Supernova's video, and then just take your time to see how everything fits.

IMG_20190505_222055 (resized).jpgIMG_20190505_230118 (resized).jpg
#13198 4 months ago

Hmmmm... Now that I look at it, should my Batsignal protector have been slid in more to cover the edges?

#13199 4 months ago

Hey all.

Question re this added phone mod.
Mine is wired so that it is always on, which is OK.

However, instead of being on all the time am I able to safely join/splice this into the wiring of the main phone on the turntable so it behaves the same as that phone?

Just concerned re node boards, loads etc etc.

Advice appreciated as always.

20190503_221625.jpg
#13200 4 months ago

And is anyone working on moulded style mods to replace those cats yet?

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