The first time my servo burned out I contacted jjp they replaced the assemblies.. however going forward and having five more servos burn out and two linkages bust I decided to just go with the third party options... Replaced all my servos with the ones Derek recommends from emax those have been holding strong ever since not one failure and the upgraded assembly cages from mezel mods... Sucks that you have to fork out an additional hundred plus dollars for all this stuff but once you fix it correctly it should last a lot longer than the original junk jjp is shipping

Very nice, love those Skulls on top man! Everything was perfectly done in that room

Anyone just adding a subwoofer to this game? Just curious what you guys are using .

thx

I have a klipsch 12" , just waiting for games arrival

Just set up the game, getting a Hardware Error ACC board communication failure. Pops up periodically, game seems to be running fine though. Anyone know what that is??

I am having this problem as well, but hadn't gotten around to figuring it out. 3 different physical plug headphones, zero joy.

I’m still waiting for my machine, but I’m planning on putting it in my band practice room. My PA system is setup in there so just I HAVE to connect it to that to experience it. I have two 15” subwoofers and two 15” PA speakers with over 2000 continuous watts of power total. Should be interesting. LOL

Could you please let us know how you do it? We plan on hooking ours into our stereo and big screen tv if possible.

I am hoping the process is just a few cables and connections.

Factory speakers sound like ass. I added External sub and tweaked some of the sound levels. Works great.

Oh right, I’m an idiot, here is all three

2B89B1D3-79AD-4509-8D15-B385B806B8D4 (resized).jpeg

B685AE56-9005-4BEC-869D-9FC26DF4078A (resized).jpeg

F3E08EE1-3819-42A0-A4D3-3D7EB2C3B52E (resized).jpeg

Boy, no kidding. I couldn't understand why people were so obsessed with improving the sound until I experienced how BAD it is with the stock hardware.

I've put pinwoofers in the games I know I'll keep long term. Any feedback on how they sound in gnr? Have not owned a jjp before so no idea how stock sounds.

Block off a day to read all the posts here on that
Or if you want the summary, yes, unless you are going to do something custom yourself, it's a must have mod along with the fans.... There are others but that's top 2

So I think I’ve narrowed down my issue to the guitar lock sensors. Can someone direct me to a post explaining how to remove the upper playfield so I can reset the connector??

Stock speakers sound thin and far away.
Pinwoofer sounds deep and rich.

Great choice

20211006_191456 (resized).jpg

Check the topic index for key posts at the top
It really isnt too difficult, remove left guitar wirerform ramp, remove left catwalk ramp, and then 4 screws on top of mini PF will release it.
Take extra care with wiring and be careful not to pinch wiring anywhere on reinstall.
While you have it out would be a great idea to beef up the lock post that gets hammered

20210912_131833 (resized).jpg20210912_135651 (resized).jpg20210912_142432 (resized).jpg

20210912_131839 (resized).jpg

Anyone with stock spotlights should immediately do JJP’s fix on the arm so they don’t break (unless they fixed the issue on recent builds). I quickly went through two sets of spotlights at the beginning, but no issues since the fix.

Search the thread for the Service Bulletin if you aren’t aware of this.

Edit; it’s a key post
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/278#post-6455419

I’m guessing the sensor board for the guitar lock has connectors? I’m thinking I have a loose connection. I’ve checked every other connector under the playfield and in the head. The issue is 100% with the sensors.

Sorry I didn't catch lock sensor pcb in this shot, only one I have of underneath mini PF.
So there is a little comms cable (blue) between sensor pcb and main mini pcb.
You could try reseat blue comms cable that is under main playfield connecting mini playfield.
If still no good you will need to remove mini pf.

20210912_115731 (resized).jpg

Congrats man! We are excited to ger our LE. Hopefully before Christmas in Australia. You have a Sept built game and the 2044th LE off the line. Thanks for sharibg the info

I find it very interesting that production has caught up to sales and you guys in the USA can just buy a game and have it delivered straight away.

Joined the club with LE# 1242. Production 21 june and it’s got all the updates/upgrades from the factory. Replaced all stock rubbers for transparant silicon rings and put red superbands on the flippers. Also installed black mirror blades and the clip frosted plastic protector set. Tomorrow I get Lior’s lockbar and shooterhouse/bullet.

I have these and yet to install them. Do you have to also do the JJP fix of cutting the corners on these or do you just install as is?

Where did you get the frosted protectors? Any pics? Thx,,

Edit: found on mezel site

Uh, no. They are still processing direct October 2020 orders. They may be into November 2020 now, but I haven't seen any proof of this.... It's close to year wait from sales to ship.
Distributors can seem faster if they bought early against future sales. That's what likely happened to hoteldrummer... His distributor got in stock that had been ordered probably last year and he strolled in and snagged one .. Good timing. Correct me if I'm wrong Hoteldrummer

Ha I'm 1240! Also June. Lots of playfield pooling despite some black washers etc so recommend hitting every post with the clear PETG washers. Have fun!

Am I the only one who has this issue semi constantly? It seems to only be connected to the proximity sensor switches in the guitar lock/keyboard insert. I’ve reseated every connector and checked for wires not seated properly in the same connectors.

This error message pops up randomly for only a second or less. Pops up multiple times each game.

45930FE8-ED74-42DA-8DB2-A9A9CB64CFBF (resized).jpeg

Just as is, no problems as they realigned the strut bracket and provided new linkages in the kit so the arms don't interfere with the cage

Ah ha….perfect.

Anyone made a solution for the balls going SDTM on the ball lock? Sucks when it ends a song on you during a failed power cord.

I think someone had this issue earlier in the thread and they just bent the ball guides a little to direct the balls away from the space between the flippers.

That sucks, this playfield is perfect (so far) and because I relaced the rubbers and added extra plastics under all stock plastics I have seens every part of the playfield, also under de mininplayfield.

Just received the lior mods, looks really good.

25305311-B947-4A44-A56D-211B4C7E0F4E (resized).jpeg

28E5F08A-D4A2-4501-8ECF-1F55081833FC (resized).jpeg

3F70DFD0-6785-4748-B117-DBB8CA0FF965 (resized).jpeg

550D8934-E370-497D-BEC9-5DD5832E454A (resized).jpeg

97D0A67C-A860-43F7-BD6C-98A76CF47472 (resized).jpeg

A458F8B1-44E0-4B3F-98FE-BA7D5557CB68 (resized).jpeg

CA78F175-10C7-43B1-9683-A40614BF4338 (resized).jpeg

D5B85FC1-979E-4843-9D28-5AB4605758C2 (resized).jpeg

Only after I changed to the BETA trial did I begin to receive the same message. It would not go away until I removed the BETA version. Turns out that the BETA and subsequent V1.22 code began to use the cable. After working with Ken at JJP support we proved in that the problem was a bad cable that needs to be replaced under warranty. I am still waiting for the replacement but Ken did give me a work around using the update cable in the game that 'temporarily cured the problem' until I receive the replacement cable. In the meantime I am able to run the current game code without getting the error message. Perhaps your problem might also be the same as mine. I suggest you contact Ken via JJP's support form to get help.

Which cable was the problem?

Just got my LE, build date 9/21. What a beautiful game! I tell ya, love the quality (playfield issues aside) but I think I am done with wood cab floor. This thing weighs a TON and not getting younger.

In any case, one minor issue, missing a screw on the lock down bar switch but notice when I close the lock down bar it rubs against the wiring. Can someone confirm this is aligned correctly? Seems even when I can find a screw the wires could get frayed. Thanks.

16337947325041372519758457514780 (resized).jpg

20211009_110927 (resized).jpg

Here are some probably unhelpful pics, but I have to run and do chores right now...

20211009_092820 (resized).jpg

20211009_092824 (resized).jpg

20211009_092829 (resized).jpg

Here are a better set of 3; I bent one of my wires out of the way pretty easily. Good catch!

20211009_093747 (resized).jpg

20211009_093757 (resized).jpg

20211009_093801 (resized).jpg

There is a cable with a 'mini USB' connector that runs from the control board which located on the left front side of the inside cabinet to a board in the back box. Ken had me bypass that cable by disconnecting it and running a jumper cable from that control board to the Update cable located near the coin box (same one that you would use for a wifi dongle). To do this you would need, of course, a cable that has a mini connector at one end and a standard USB connector at the other end. Before you do this, you night try reseating the cable at the control board first. If reseating the cable at both ends (at the control board and at its' terminus inside the back box at board location labelled JUSO (located at the top right hand side of the main pcb) does not resolve your problem, you can prove out if it is the cable by using the technique I described or, just call Ken.

The manual mentions that this game has a mechanism that will hold the balls in the trough even when the playfield is lifted (to position 4). My question is, how much do you guys trust this mechanism? Do you guys remove the balls prior to fully lifting your playfield? Or does everybody fully trust that mechanism and that no balls will come falling out smashing into something breakable?

Works pretty reliably. Just a metal flap that swings forward and blocks the exit as the playfield is rotated up.

Thanks for the photos! I did the same, just bent them more than they had been. Found the missing screw hanging on for dear life in the back cabinet opening so all set!

soooo.... complete newb question here, but I want to be 100% sure.

All the lights are on boards.... and the boards get power from the Black and Red wires coming into them right?

I'm goin to t-tap and add a light strip and want to be certain.

thanks.

I'd grab your power from the ATX power supply in the backbox (5v and 12v are available) and leave the boards alone. Yes, it's a longer run, but less chance for problems.

I had the same message, check all the usd cables in the backbox pc, make sure they are all fully seated ( PUSHED IN ) I think there are 5 or 6 to check

Im not seeing where these parts might go…

F79374E4-4671-4C2D-BCD4-1B716EBC7659 (resized).jpeg

Since I play terrible I add mods!

Thanks,
Zdoor
@themodcouple
@Rocketcitypinball
its_really
jayman4911
@Trumpanchemods

The drop flap works,
But if it doesn't, the ball will smash into mini LCD. I always wedge a piece of HD foam into eject hole before lifting.

The light is going in the shooter rod area. I don't have a long enough extension. I suppose I could make one.

But where is the ATX and what is it and what does it look like? And how do I connect to it?

A microfiber cloth works in almost all modern machines to stop balls rolling out. But the JJP flaps work too.