(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

3 years ago


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  • 27,994 posts
  • 1,056 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by konghusker
  • Topic is favorited by 466 Pinsiders

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“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 188 votes
    17%
  • LE 628 votes
    57%
  • SE 77 votes
    7%
  • None 218 votes
    20%

(1111 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

78 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 27,994 posts in this topic. You are on page 352 of 560.
#17551 2 years ago

Shaker on ours is really violent even turned down in settings. Pulled cover to adjust them, but there is only 1 set screw position on the shaft, and shaft is so tiny I'm afraid if I drill opposite it will break. Also cannot move in closer to reduce. Any ideas?

#17552 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Shaker on ours is really violent even turned down in settings. Pulled cover to adjust them, but there is only 1 set screw position on the shaft, and shaft is so tiny I'm afraid if I drill opposite it will break. Also cannot move in closer to reduce. Any ideas?

You don't want to move it in and out, you want to loosen the set screw and rotate the arm on the shaft so its relative position to the one on the opposite side changes. No drilling required.

#17553 2 years ago

Need a little tech help here.

Whenever I’m in a song multiball, my coma lock up post keeps firing. It doesn’t do this in single ball play. Any ideas? Maybe a bad opto in the coma lock lane?

This is on a CE.

#17554 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Thus the reason for these...
https://pu-parts.com/jjp-guns-n-roses-spotlight-pu-upgrade-kit
But they're in Germany and they don't ship to USA.

Thanks for the link, but they're just 3D printed, so not really interested. I'll just print a small reinforcing piece for the new bracket JJP sent and if THAT breaks over time too, I'll just print a whole new bracket with thicker mounting arms myself.

#17555 2 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Need a little tech help here.
Whenever I’m in a song multiball, my coma lock up post keeps firing. It doesn’t do this in single ball play. Any ideas? Maybe a bad opto in the coma lock lane?
This is on a CE.

Sounds like slightly mis-aligned switch (opto or otherwise) in the coma lock so it thinks a ball is there. What does it say in switch test when you manually trigger it?

#17556 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Thus the reason for these...
https://pu-parts.com/jjp-guns-n-roses-spotlight-pu-upgrade-kit
But they're in Germany and they don't ship to USA.
Locally This is the only place that has them but they're out of stock and have been for a long time.
https://mezelmods.com/collections/guns-n-roses-jersey-jack-pinball/products/guns-n-roses-pinball-spotlight-upgrade-kit
They are still out of stock at mm.
I guess I could do another group buy And have a bunch of these imported from Germany again and distribute them within the USA if there was enough interest. I've already done that once. Maybe if I can get 10 orders I would do it again.
After all the costs and conversion and shipping from Germany to me and then from me to you the cost would be $110 shipped each.
Which isn't much different from mezel mods since theirs is $85 plus shipping it's going to be about $95 after shipping. About a $15 difference.
You can PM if you're interested, And if I get enough response I'll do it.

These indeed are 3d printed and design is free on thingiverse so you can go to a local 3d shop and print them out. You could even go for metal if you want to pay for that.

#17557 2 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

These indeed are 3d printed and design is free on thingiverse so you can go to a local 3d shop and print them out. You could even go for metal if you want to pay for that.

Link?

#17558 2 years ago

Another question on getting better sound without going into huge investments like pinwoofer. I tried to split the signal on the cable just going out of the computer. In the top right there is a male-female 3.5mm connection. When I did that it resulted in a huge humm. Any suggestions how to get the signal? I want to feed that to a amplifier and send that to a subwoofer.

#17559 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You don't want to move it in and out, you want to loosen the set screw and rotate the arm on the shaft so its relative position to the one on the opposite side changes. No drilling required.

Can't. It has one recess cut into shaft to hold set screw. It won't hold without a recess

#17560 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Can't. It has one recess cut into shaft to hold set screw. It won't hold without a recess

Hmm. I'll have to take the cover off and have a look. No drilling should be required to adjust.

#17561 2 years ago

Usually a shaft has a flat spot to secure into. This has 1 indent , and is a tiny shaft, so not really wanting to drill into. Right now, both weights hang straight down. Was wanting to offset by 180° to try and tame it down.

#17562 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Usually a shaft has a flat spot to secure into. This has 1 indent , and is a tiny shaft, so not really wanting to drill into. Right now, both weights hang straight down. Was wanting to offset by 180° to try and tame it down.

Yeah, looking at it, this is really dumb implementation by JJP. The shaft should have had 4 (or ideally 8 ) flat surfaces on the 3/4" or so near the end of the shaft. Thinking it couldn't be this stupid, I took the back weight off to see if maybe that was the one that was supposed to be adjusted. Nope. Just the same.

I'm fine with the shaker in mine, but if I were going to adjust it, I would just grind a flat surface on the two sides and bottom and then use that for the set screw. JJP really should change this with their shaker motor supplier moving forward.

jjp_shaker_motor (resized).jpgjjp_shaker_motor (resized).jpg

#17563 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Yeah, looking at it, this is really dumb implementation by JJP. The shaft should have had 4 (or ideally 8 ) flat surfaces on the 3/4" or so near the end of the shaft. Thinking it couldn't be this stupid, I took the back weight off to see if maybe that was the one that was supposed to be adjusted. Nope. Just the same.
I'm fine with the shaker in mine, but if I were going to adjust it, I would just grind a flat surface on the two sides and bottom and then use that for the set screw. JJP really should change this with their shaker motor supplier moving forward.
[quoted image]

Haha, you thought I was crazy, right? It's poor design, do you think 180 from ea other will be smoothest?

#17564 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Haha, you thought I was crazy, right? It's poor design, do you think 180 from ea other will be smoothest?

I couldn't believe it was that dumb until I saw it for myself. I was sure you were missing something. You clearly weren't. JJP did this dumb.

That would be the smoothest, yes. Just hopefully not too smooth. Being able to try it at 90 degree angles would be good. Might be a happy medium.

#17565 2 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Another question on getting better sound without going into huge investments like pinwoofer. I tried to split the signal on the cable just going out of the computer. In the top right there is a male-female 3.5mm connection. When I did that it resulted in a huge humm. Any suggestions how to get the signal? I want to feed that to a amplifier and send that to a subwoofer.

You are getting ground loop noise. (I did the similar approach with my external sub). Then I bought the pinnovators tap and can’t recommend it enough. Fabulous. No noise and super clean signal. External sub is awesome.

#17566 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Thanks for the link, but they're just 3D printed, so not really interested. I'll just print a small reinforcing piece for the new bracket JJP sent and if THAT breaks over time too, I'll just print a whole new bracket with thicker mounting arms myself.

Another product to benefit from your expertise?

#17567 2 years ago
Quoted from lemmings418:

Another product to benefit from your expertise?

Someone apparently already made 3D models for people to download and print, and there are the parts from PU, so it's got a solution anyway. Besides, I'm still way over-extended with the rest of the JJP Tibetan Breeze brackets, GnR diverter and magnet coolers, godzilla magnet cooling, and the add-on for the GnR topper. I really don't have time to take on anything more at the moment. I should have about half those done and shipping before long, then I can get to other projects.

#17568 2 years ago

.

#17569 2 years ago

Okay so who lives in the USA, has the time, has skills with and owns a 3D printer and is willing to do this to make some money And help the community? These are worth a hundred bucks a kit.

These are needed item in the states and apparently they're only available in Germany. Based on the fact they're freely available on thingy universe, this seems like something someone here in the USA might be interested in doing? But I don't know anything about 3D printing or how involved this really is.

#17570 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Okay so who lives in the USA, has the time, has skills with and owns a 3D printer and is willing to do this to make some money And help the community? These are worth a hundred bucks a kit.
These are needed item in the states and apparently they're only available in Germany. Based on the fact they're freely available on thingy universe, this seems like something someone here in the USA might be interested in doing? But I don't know anything about 3D printing or how involved this really is.

You can send the thingiverse STL file(s) to a service bureau like Shapeways, hubs.com, etc and they will print it for you. I did a quick check on hubs.com for the main bracket @ 80% infill PETG using FDM and it was $11.22. The only problem is the minimum order is $80, so you'd have to print more parts or go in with someone else. Anyway, just pointing out that since the files are freely made available for personal use, you can do this yourself even without even owning a 3D printer.

#17571 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Okay so who lives in the USA, has the time, has skills with and owns a 3D printer and is willing to do this to make some money And help the community? These are worth a hundred bucks a kit.
These are needed item in the states and apparently they're only available in Germany. Based on the fact they're freely available on thingy universe, this seems like something someone here in the USA might be interested in doing? But I don't know anything about 3D printing or how involved this really is.

can you share the thingiverse link?

#17572 2 years ago

you need to print the hinge

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854563

and the body
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4898252

I could print some but also I am in europe so sending that to the states will not be cheap, I checked that for some mods I made but the cost do not equal the cost of the product. So that would be ripping of people while in my eyes the 3d printing revolution is about cheap ways to share designs. I know there is a 3d thread here on pinside with people discussing and sharing 3d files. Most of these have a printer, maybe ask there.

#17573 2 years ago

Are the Spotlight brackets just breaking on the old models , my distributor showed me how they've upgraded the new ones with a better design .

#17574 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Are the Spotlight brackets just breaking on the old models , my distributor showed me how they've upgraded the new ones with a better design .

I have a very recent build and the arms on the bracket on the left that the servo mounts to were still very flimsy and broke within a month (or they were broken from the factory, and I didn't find out until a servo quit and I took it apart).

#17575 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I have a very recent build and the arms on the bracket on the left that the servo mounts to were still very flimsy and broke within a month (or they were broken from the factory, and I didn't find out until a servo quit and I took it apart).

That's no good , so ideally you should try to reinforce them from new ?

#17576 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

That's no good , so ideally you should try to reinforce them from new ?

Given the way they're designed, I'm not sure how to effectively reinforce them. I think I'm going to try the one on thingiverse. The mounts on it are much more robust.

#17577 2 years ago

Once I get mine , I'll be able to see what's going on . If it breaks i'll see if I can make what's needed out of aluminium at work .

#17578 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Okay so who lives in the USA, has the time, has skills with and owns a 3D printer and is willing to do this to make some money And help the community? These are worth a hundred bucks a kit.
These are needed item in the states and apparently they're only available in Germany. Based on the fact they're freely available on thingy universe, this seems like something someone here in the USA might be interested in doing? But I don't know anything about 3D printing or how involved this really is.

Try here .
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printing-sharing-thread-lets-better-the-hobby

#17579 2 years ago

Thanks.
I'd like one of these bumper ball savers too...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4835017

Screenshot_20211114-071734_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20211114-071734_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20211114-071806_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20211114-071806_Chrome (resized).jpg
#17580 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Thanks.
I'd like one of these bumper ball savers too...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4835017[quoted image][quoted image]

These work very well. I had one printed for me and have not had one ball trapped there since.

#17581 2 years ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

These work very well. I had one printed for me and have not had one ball trapped there since.

a must have in my eyes, using this since game 1

#17582 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Thanks.
I'd like one of these bumper ball savers too...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4835017[quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Vespula ! What one or two color look the best?

#17583 2 years ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

Hey Vespula ! What one or two color look the best?

The picture of the black one looks pretty stealthy...
Equally good would be red

#17584 2 years ago

I created a poll here to compile a list of code updated that we would like to see. Feel free to chime in on other ideas you like to see.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wishlist-jjp-gnr-code-updates-poll#post-6605321

#17585 2 years ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

These work very well. I had one printed for me and have not had one ball trapped there since.

rrosenhouse to install it, did you need to remove the ramp? I have it printed but need it installed.

#17586 2 years ago
Quoted from Mar3nBu:

rrosenhouse to install it, did you need to remove the ramp? I have it printed but need it installed.

you dont need to disamble the ramp, but its recommended to losen the 2 screws at the ramp entry to lift it a bit up.

#17587 2 years ago
Quoted from Mar3nBu:

rrosenhouse to install it, did you need to remove the ramp? I have it printed but need it installed.

I did not have to remove the ramp to install it.

#17588 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

I did not have to remove the ramp to install it.

I managed to install it without removing the ramp. It’s tight and difficult but got it. I also added the o-ring in the post after. I notice most people leave the oring off

#17589 2 years ago
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:

I managed to install it without removing the ramp. It’s tight and difficult but got it. I also added the o-ring in the post after. I notice most people leave the oring off

I never thought to put the ring back on. Might not be a bad idea since the bare posts seem to result in the most pooling issues. Can the ball still get stuck if the ring is there though?

#17590 2 years ago

I apologize in advance if this topic has been discussed before, but where can I find the current game rules? I'm running V1.25 which I think is the latest version.

#17591 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

I never thought to put the ring back on. Might not be a bad idea since the bare posts seem to result in the most pooling issues. Can the ball still get stuck if the ring is there though?

Hasn’t got stuck yet. I’ll post here if it ever does.

10
#17592 2 years ago

Ok guys, I know it's been discussed before, and no one asked me for my opinion. However, when a product is offered that adds a huge upgrade I feel like a shout out is deserved. So, Pinwoofer....... it's worth it. Worth every penny. I was running stock speakers with a 12" powered sub under the game. I was simply using alligator clips off of the original subwoofer like so many of us do. I held off on the pinwoofer kit for a long time because of price, and the assumption that the 12" sub was good enough. I finally got tired of the sub being in the way if I moved the pin, or had to adjust the levelers, and the sub sometimes buzzed like feedback if the game wasn't being played. Anyway, I ordered my pinwoofer kit with the smaller KO amplifier (same power as the bigger Amp, just a few less blingy features that I didn't need), subwoofer, and upgraded tweeters. I got it installed this evening. After some adjusting on the amplifier, my GnR sounds way better than stock. Amazingly, the 8" cabinet sub packs just as much punch as the 12" powered beast I had in the floor, and as an added bonus, I can feel the bass hit in my hands! Sweeeeet!!. The KO amplifier allows for Sub Volume, Sub frequency cutoff, Tweeter volume, Backbox volume, and Overall game volume. Plus the external coin door volume still works which is very nice. My previous high score was around 28 million (sad, I know), and after installing this kit, my next game score was 32 million, then 1 game later, almost 97 million!! That's right folks, pinwoofer will even improve your high scores!
But seriously, I think the better sound, and feeling the bass in my hands did immerse me a bit more into the game, so who knows?! Highly recommend this kit.

#17594 2 years ago

I’m finally back to playing again. Tons of washers added, new rubbers, etc….

222EC4ED-E745-4812-A2F0-EE4D289CB54A (resized).jpeg222EC4ED-E745-4812-A2F0-EE4D289CB54A (resized).jpeg
#17595 2 years ago

Here’s the poll so far. 65 votes and counting

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wishlist-jjp-gnr-code-updates-poll#post-6605321

1C3B6E05-3731-4CBA-A4D1-1D357F66F44F (resized).jpeg1C3B6E05-3731-4CBA-A4D1-1D357F66F44F (resized).jpeg
#17596 2 years ago

Adding a patch for automatic applause jackpot collecting would be a dream!! Come on Keefer. Make it happen!!

#17597 2 years ago
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:

Adding a patch for automatic applause jackpot collecting would be a dream!! Come on Keefer. Make it happen!!

Meh. I like the tension of having to make the shot in a set short amount of time.

That said, I would appreciate a 1 second grace period.

#17598 2 years ago

To anyone having spotlight issues - mine haven’t worked for a few weeks. While installing a shooter lane protector I just decided to manually move the lights up and down and left to right. My first game the spotlights were both working again. Maybe dust or something is binding the gears after awhile?

#17599 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Meh. I like the tension of having to make the shot in a set short amount of time.
That said, I would appreciate a 1 second grace period.

That’s the beauty of the patch. You like the tension? Don’t collect it, collect another patch that speaks to you and you still maintain that tension you thrive for. Everybody wins!

#17600 2 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballFuries:

To anyone having spotlight issues - mine haven’t worked for a few weeks. While installing a shooter lane protector I just decided to manually move the lights up and down and left to right. My first game the spotlights were both working again. Maybe dust or something is binding the gears after awhile?

The crappy stock servos are likely failing on yours. Moving them manually helped them temporarily. Just replace them with the $10-$15 EMAX ones and your problem's solved.

It's POSSIBLE you have a wire with a short, but I think that's less likely than bad servos because the ones JJP are using are bottom of the barrel junk.

Post with EMAX links is here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/176#post-6250280

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