(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

1 year ago


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“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 181 votes
    19%
  • LE 515 votes
    53%
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    7%
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#13501 3 months ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

The left and right edges of the scoop cliffy are ever so slightly raised. I haven’t had that with cliffys before—are they going to settle down or are they going to start crunching and crumpling up eventually? I mean they’re barely up, but they’re up.

This is why I installed so many. The first one I managed to break the little tab that holds it in place. The second one I couldn't get to settle down the way I wanted.

I finally asked Cliffy if he'd make me one with adhesive, which he graciously did, and that one is just as I want it. Stays nice and flat.

#13502 3 months ago
Quoted from atg1469:

I added the spotlight for Axl as well, just used a T-tap to tap into the hotrail lighting to power it.

Do you mind to share the spotlight you used for this mod? I'm interested in doing the same on my SE!

#13503 3 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

This is why I installed so many. The first one I managed to break the little tab that holds it in place. The second one I couldn't get to settle down the way I wanted.
I finally asked Cliffy if he'd make me one with adhesive, which he graciously did, and that one is just as I want it. Stays nice and flat.

Had it’s not just me! Hmm, I wonder if I can make some kind of adhesive fit in there. It’s all on mylar. Hmmmmm

#13504 3 months ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

Had it’s not just me! Hmm, I wonder if I can make some kind of adhesive fit in there. It’s all on mylar. Hmmmmm

I just stuck it right down on the mylar, same as the original protector adhesive.

#13505 3 months ago

Last stupid question for anyone close to their machine. We’re all buttoned back up but I’d failed to take a “before” pic of the bass ramp at the bottom and I feel like someone misplaced a piece of hex post. Cause it’s just hanging out up there… If someone could snap a pic of how it’s supposed to be, I’d appreciate it!

867ACB9D-638A-4A15-9A20-041EEFDC0A01 (resized).jpeg
#13506 3 months ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

Last stupid question for anyone close to their machine. We’re all buttoned back up but I’d failed to take a “before” pic of the bass ramp at the bottom and I feel like someone misplaced a piece of hex post. Cause it’s just hanging out up there… If someone could snap a pic of how it’s supposed to be, I’d appreciate it![quoted image]

Does this help? There should be a hex post there.

AFEB7669-3555-4690-9609-1D250FBBE41D (resized).jpeg

9D96B6C0-A95D-47AE-9B6D-A68BF59B866D (resized).jpeg
22
#13507 3 months ago

Greetings Programs!

Sorry for the delay - I had to get the daughter to college and I reworked the monitors again. Here is the final install:

64201BE0-FF79-4D18-99F1-B5E12784D969 (resized).jpeg

This was not an easy project, but it is oh so nice to be able to see what’s on the 2 monitors without lifting your head!

The main mirror monitor I used is in a nice encapsulated aluminum case, but it does result in 2 cables that are visible and run under the apron. I’ll give a link to that one and what I believe is the same monitor but with a breakout board for an even cleaner look - but it wasn’t worth it to me to shell out $$ again since the first one worked fine. The main mirror monitor works flawlessly and is an easy install. The monitor is attached via magnetic sheet to the apron.

The PF monitor is a pain in the butt to mirror. JJP is using a custom designed breakout board and it doesn’t play nice with anything. I finally found a monitor/splitter combo that works but with a few issues: the monitor is not IPS so it looks fine when looking down at it but is a little washed out from an angle. The original PF monitor has some weird artifacts during bootup but looks ok during gameplay (although I think it’s slightly brighter than it was before). It’s good enough for me, but could be further improved on if you have the patience and extra $$ (I ended up with 3 monitors that didn’t work and many weeks of waiting on shipments).

I tucked the breakout board under the apron. Both the monitor and breakout board are mounted with magnetic sheets.

5C13B0B6-C691-4194-82FA-3A4E4A80DA85 (resized).jpeg

Here’s the parts list of everything I used:

Main monitor splitter:
amazon.com link »

Playfield monitor splitter:
amazon.com link »

1920x1080 monitor:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/7-1920x1080-Monitor-Usb-Type-c_1600279078887.html

This one is from the same company and has a breakout board, but have not tried it:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Landscape-7-inch-1920-1080-IPS_1600120898376.html

800x480 monitor:
ebay.com link: itm
Ribbon cable extension:
amazon.com link »

Cables:
MicroUSB Power for PF mirror:
amazon.com link »
Angle HDMI for PF mirror:
amazon.com link »
Angle HDMI Adaptor for main mirror:
amazon.com link »
HDMI for main mirror:
amazon.com link »
USBC Power for main mirror:
amazon.com link »

Power Cable:
Power splitter:
amazon.com link »
USB splitter dual pack:
amazon.com link »
5V to screw terminal USB:
amazon.com link »

Magnetic sheets:
amazon.com link »

Power cable that I fashioned to be plug and play with an unused ATX plug:
FF9FE54C-4B8B-4D6D-8AA3-F3E944A30E7E (resized).jpeg

Added 85 days ago:

Note: I had the same link for both the main and playfield hdmi splitters. The correct link for the playfield hdmi splitter is:

OREI [email protected] 1 in 2 Out HDMI
amazon.com link »

#13508 3 months ago

Quite amazing not to mention impressive. Than you take it to the next level by providing a component list. Wow!

#13509 3 months ago

fantastic work

#13510 3 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Does this help? There should be a hex post there.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Helps a lot, thanks! You’ve confirmed what I believed to be the case. Now to locate it…

#13511 3 months ago

For anyone not happy with the sound - a Polk PSW10 powered with some alligator clips sub does a great job of improving the sound. It really balances out all the treble hitting you in the face and is easy to install. I’m sure the Pinwoofer sounds better, but for an easy and quick sound upgrade I highly recommend it.

#13512 3 months ago
Quoted from GPS:

Quite amazing not to mention impressive. Than you take it to the next level by providing a component list. Wow!

Agreed; amazing work!

#13513 3 months ago
Quoted from ThePinballFuries:

For anyone not happy with the sound - a Polk PSW10 powered with some alligator clips sub does a great job of improving the sound. It really balances out all the treble hitting you in the face and is easy to install. I’m sure the Pinwoofer sounds better, but for an easy and quick sound upgrade I highly recommend it.

Yep - JJP, Stern, American, Spooky, whatever, ... a Polk sub adds wonder to the audio!

Yet, even with a Polk hooked up to my GnR, Pinwoofer is calling to my ears. Like the seductive song of a Siren!

#13514 3 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Just a heads up, there is a setting to turn add a ball off for song modes. I disabled add a ball for song modes and think the game is so much better for it. The player already has the opportunity to earn up to a 6 ball multiball prior to a song starting + the default song mode ball saver is 60 seconds. With add a ball turned off I think it makes going for locks prior to starting a song mode more meaningful and it adds more risk to continue going through stages during a song. Leaving add a ball on for song modes makes the game too multiball heavy in my opinion, the game seems more fun with the setting turned off.

FWIW I turned my max ball saver on the songs down to 30 seconds, and set the "add a ball to 5". There is a lot of room to play around and see what you like.

Good discussion to have given the JJP Pinball Podcast with Joe Katz today dove into the pros and cons of game settings. I think the defaults a on GNR are great for location play, but if you have it in your house it seems more than reasonable to tweak it to your skill level!

#13515 3 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

FWIW I turned my max ball saver on the songs down to 30 seconds, and set the "add a ball to 5". There is a lot of room to play around and see what you like.
Good discussion to have given the JJP Pinball Podcast with Joe Katz today dove into the pros and cons of game settings. I think the defaults a on GNR are great for location play, but if you have it in your house it seems more than reasonable to tweak it to your skill level!

Got a link to the podcast? Any talk about code, balance, and nuggets?

#13516 3 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Some people have reported the replacements are more robust. My take? Try it and if it fails again just remove the thermal fuse and rock without it.
I have experienced no ill effects after running fuseless.

It's not a fuse. It's a switch controlled by temp. Running the coil without risks runaway heat that could damage playfield art above it (see:vintage addams family pins with yellowed clouds from magnet heat).

Testing magnet coil temps without a switch installed is on my "to do" list. Dunno if I'll wait to test it myself on my GnR (at last!) next month, or have someone with one already do it.

It was a good idea, but JJP shouldn't have used a thermal switch. They should have had a temp probe wrapped into the magnet (ideally, two, one on each side as the temp can vary across the coil) and reported the temp to the software so the software could control the magnet usage, and even auto-disable it with software compensation if the temps get too hot. Would have been a much better approach for Hogbog to take. This would have been a more robust solution that wouldn't have had the failures all over the place AND would have allowed for intelligent software compensation when the magnet was disabled while cooling.

#13517 3 months ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Greetings Programs!
Sorry for the delay - I had to get the daughter to college and I reworked the monitors again. Here is the final install:
[quoted image]
This was not an easy project, but it is oh so nice to be able to see what’s on the 2 monitors without lifting your head!
The main mirror monitor I used is in a nice encapsulated aluminum case, but it does result in 2 cables that are visible and run under the apron. I’ll give a link to that one and what I believe is the same monitor but with a breakout board for an even cleaner look - but it wasn’t worth it to me to shell out $$ again since the first one worked fine. The main mirror monitor works flawlessly and is an easy install. The monitor is attached via magnetic sheet to the apron.
The PF monitor is a pain in the butt to mirror. JJP is using a custom designed breakout board and it doesn’t play nice with anything. I finally found a monitor/splitter combo that works but with a few issues: the monitor is not IPS so it looks fine when looking down at it but is a little washed out from an angle. The original PF monitor has some weird artifacts during bootup but looks ok during gameplay (although I think it’s slightly brighter than it was before). It’s good enough for me, but could be further improved on if you have the patience and extra $$ (I ended up with 3 monitors that didn’t work and many weeks of waiting on shipments).
I tucked the breakout board under the apron. Both the monitor and breakout board are mounted with magnetic sheets.
[quoted image]
Here’s the parts list of everything I used:
Main monitor splitter:
amazon.com link »
Playfield monitor splitter:
amazon.com link »
1920x1080 monitor:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/7-1920x1080-Monitor-Usb-Type-c_1600279078887.html
This one is from the same company and has a breakout board, but have not tried it:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Landscape-7-inch-1920-1080-IPS_1600120898376.html
800x480 monitor:
ebay.com link: itm
Ribbon cable extension:
amazon.com link »
Cables:
MicroUSB Power for PF mirror:
amazon.com link »
Angle HDMI for PF mirror:
amazon.com link »
Angle HDMI Adaptor for main mirror:
amazon.com link »
HDMI for main mirror:
amazon.com link »
USBC Power for main mirror:
amazon.com link »
Power Cable:
Power splitter:
amazon.com link »
USB splitter dual pack:
amazon.com link »
5V to screw terminal USB:
amazon.com link »
Magnetic sheets:
amazon.com link »
Power cable that I fashioned to be plug and play with an unused ATX plug:
[quoted image]

Great project!

#13518 3 months ago

Fix for intermittent or bad Scoop switch.

My new GnR LE with 10 plays developed an intermittent switch sensor in the center scoop. Sometimes the ball would sit in the scoop until the game went into ball search mode. I adjusted the position of the switch about 5 times and each time the problem returned. I finally took the switch out of the game and while in test mode found that the switch was defective internally.

While working on the problem and making adjustments to the switch position, I also came to the conclusion that there are several problems with the design of the scoop sensor in GnR.

First, the switch has a very short arm with a small roller at the end of that arm. IMG_5856 (resized).JPEG
Second, it protrudes very little into the hole that the ball sits in. It will only catch the edge of the ball if the ball is properly centered in the hole and finally, the weight on the edge of the ball is sometimes not enough to activate the switch.

I decided to improve upon the design of the scoop sensor while replacing the defective switch. Here's what I did.

I started with a typical rollover switch.
IMG_5857 (resized).JPEG

I installed a new diode and shortened the arm on the switch. I left the 90 degree bend and about 1/4" after the bend.
IMG_5843 (resized).JPEG
IMG_5858 (resized).JPEG

The mounting position of the scoop switch lines up directly with the VUK itself so I bent the arm horizontally such that once installed, the tip of the arm would not interfere with the operation of the VUK.
IMG_5845 (resized).JPEG
IMG_5847 (resized).JPEG

I installed the switch normally and the scoop switch now works perfectly. Here is the switch installed:
IMG_5853 (resized).JPEG

The problems with the original design:
1) The arm is short, requiring more pressure to activate the switch.
2) The point where the ball contacts the arm is near the edge of the ball. Only a portion of the weight of the ball will rest on the switch.
3) Adjusting the switch up or down on its mount covers a small range, much of that useless.

The advantages of my redesign are:
1) The arm of the switch is longer. This means less pressure is required to activate the switch.
2) The point where the ball comes in contact is more near the center of the ball which means almost the entire weight of the ball will act on the arm to activate the switch.
3) Adjusting the switch up or down on its mount covers a larger range of motion at the end of the arm.

I hope this helps others experiencing similar issues with their Scoop sensor on GnR.

BTW - I love this game!

#13519 3 months ago

Had fun last night and looked over my SE with silicone washers installed. Nearly all of them are pooling again with most of the pooling not that bad. This was the worst of the bunch and I fixed it again. Just an issue I have to keep on top of.

IMG_20210813_201513 (resized).jpg
#13520 3 months ago
Quoted from hool10:

Had fun last night and looked over my SE with silicone washers installed. Nearly all of them are pooling again with most of the pooling not that bad. This was the worst of the bunch and I fixed it again. Just an issue I have to keep on top of.
[quoted image]

I just got my bag of washers from pinball life and plan on putting them on today/tomorrow. This is not comforting though. I don't have very much pooling at all, like very little. I have a spot by the post above the bumpers that is lifting and maybe a couple posts with very minimal pooling (SO FAR!) that you really have to look for. So these are more preemptive.

But you're saying yours came back. And you fixed it again? How'd you fix it? Iron? Is it possible even with the clear washers that overtightening is an issue?

#13521 3 months ago
Quoted from hool10:

Had fun last night and looked over my SE with silicone washers installed. Nearly all of them are pooling again with most of the pooling not that bad. This was the worst of the bunch and I fixed it again. Just an issue I have to keep on top of.
[quoted image]

This is why I don't recommend the silicone especially with a metal washer on top, too much flex and direct contact with the play field, all that does is supply direct constant pressure... See my bulletproofing key post. The PETG washers put all the pressure at the center of the hole and actually float the majority of the washer just off the play field proceeding further from the hole center, all while holding the post rigid. I've got over 1700 plays on fixed areas with no pooling returning

#13522 3 months ago
Quoted from hool10:

Had fun last night and looked over my SE with silicone washers installed. Nearly all of them are pooling again with most of the pooling not that bad. This was the worst of the bunch and I fixed it again. Just an issue I have to keep on top of.
[quoted image]

That wider washer seems like it might be harmful, actually. In my case the oem stuff eventually chipped, but I was able to hide it under a cliffy ring.
If the wider circle ends up chipping, it might be outside the hideable radius.

IMG_0355.jpeg
#13523 3 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

That wider washer seems like it might be harmful, actually. In my case the oem stuff eventually chipped, but I was able to hide it under a cliffy ring.
If the wider circle ends up chipping, it might be outside the hideable radius.[quoted image]

Ha, I did that exact same thing, trimming the cliffy to fit around that lane guide thing.

#13524 3 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

This is why I don't recommend the silicone especially with a metal washer on top, too much flex and direct contact with the play field, all that does is supply direct constant pressure... See my bulletproofing key post. The PETG washers put all the pressure at the center of the hole and actually float the majority of the washer just off the play field proceeding further from the hole center, all while holding the post rigid. I've got over 1700 plays on fixed areas with no pooling returning

I have to ask is the PETG washers not flat that the whole washer doesn't presses against the PF or does the edges rise up as you tighten down the post? If it's the later then aren't we putting more pressure to cause the pooling again?

I really don't know hence why I'm asking. Thanks

#13525 3 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Ha, I did that exact same thing, trimming the cliffy to fit around that lane guide thing.

I was worried carbon fiber might be difficult to cut, but nope.

#13526 3 months ago

Wow what a game this was! Multiplied my previous best by 3x. Love this game.

0640956C-367D-4916-9AA4-E1EA3CB44790 (resized).jpeg
#13527 3 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Got a link to the podcast? Any talk about code, balance, and nuggets?

Here it is, the latest episode is ~ 1/2 Steve Ritchie, the other 1/2 Joe Katz.

https://jjppodcast.libsyn.com/

To be clear the Joe Katz part was focused on Wonka, but discusses the difficulty balancing default software between casual players and highly skilled pinball enthusiasts.

The bottom line is there are a huge number of settings you can tweak to your heart's content in modern games. So pick something that is both fun and challenging for you if that is what you want! You don't have to sit on your hands and complain about this or that forever, in a lot of cases you have the power to adjust it yourself.

#13528 3 months ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Wow what a game this was! Multiplied my previous best by 3x. Love this game.
[quoted image]

Love the name too! Great score. My GC is a measley 26m.

#13529 3 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

This is why I don't recommend the silicone especially with a metal washer on top, too much flex and direct contact with the play field, all that does is supply direct constant pressure... See my bulletproofing key post. The PETG washers put all the pressure at the center of the hole and actually float the majority of the washer just off the play field proceeding further from the hole center, all while holding the post rigid. I've got over 1700 plays on fixed areas with no pooling returning

This is exactly what I'm doing. 3/4" clear PETG washers. Had to notch one of them. Just started these at the inlane/outlane posts. Minimal pooling and lifting. The pictures make it look worse than it is I think. Gonna get to the rest of them tonight hopefully.

20210814_104605 (resized).jpg20210814_105405 (resized).jpg20210814_111103 (resized).jpg20210814_111639 (resized).jpg20210814_111829 (resized).jpg
#13530 3 months ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Wow what a game this was! Multiplied my previous best by 3x. Love this game.
[quoted image]

…What a coincidence, we have almost the same number… I just need to add 35,000,000 Million to my record and that’s it

#13531 3 months ago

Any thoughts on replacing the black washers that (now) come pre-installed with clear PETG? I feel like clear would look better. I'm also still on the fence about adding Mylar rings in addition to the washers. Hoping for a Sept delivery!

#13532 3 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

This is exactly what I'm doing. 3/4" clear PETG washers. Had to notch one of them. Just started these at the inlane/outlane posts. Minimal pooling and lifting. The pictures make it look worse than it is I think. Gonna get to the rest of them tonight hopefully.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'd arrest the chipping edge on the inside with clear nail polish (and let that dry) before putting down the washer.

#13533 3 months ago
Quoted from Jackrabbt:

Fix for intermittent or bad Scoop switch.
My new GnR LE with 10 plays developed an intermittent switch sensor in the center scoop. Sometimes the ball would sit in the scoop until the game went into ball search mode. I adjusted the position of the switch about 5 times and each time the problem returned. I finally took the switch out of the game and while in test mode found that the switch was defective internally.
While working on the problem and making adjustments to the switch position, I also came to the conclusion that there are several problems with the design of the scoop sensor in GnR.
First, the switch has a very short arm with a small roller at the end of that arm. [quoted image]
Second, it protrudes very little into the hole that the ball sits in. It will only catch the edge of the ball if the ball is properly centered in the hole and finally, the weight on the edge of the ball is sometimes not enough to activate the switch.
I decided to improve upon the design of the scoop sensor while replacing the defective switch. Here's what I did.
I started with a typical rollover switch.
[quoted image]
I installed a new diode and shortened the arm on the switch. I left the 90 degree bend and about 1/4" after the bend.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The mounting position of the scoop switch lines up directly with the VUK itself so I bent the arm horizontally such that once installed, the tip of the arm would not interfere with the operation of the VUK.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I installed the switch normally and the scoop switch now works perfectly. Here is the switch installed:
[quoted image]
The problems with the original design:
1) The arm is short, requiring more pressure to activate the switch.
2) The point where the ball contacts the arm is near the edge of the ball. Only a portion of the weight of the ball will rest on the switch.
3) Adjusting the switch up or down on its mount covers a small range, much of that useless.
The advantages of my redesign are:
1) The arm of the switch is longer. This means less pressure is required to activate the switch.
2) The point where the ball comes in contact is more near the center of the ball which means almost the entire weight of the ball will act on the arm to activate the switch.
3) Adjusting the switch up or down on its mount covers a larger range of motion at the end of the arm.
I hope this helps others experiencing similar issues with their Scoop sensor on GnR.
BTW - I love this game!

That's exactly what the tech did to my switch.

#13534 3 months ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

I have to ask is the PETG washers not flat that the whole washer doesn't presses against the PF or does the edges rise up as you tighten down the post? If it's the later then aren't we putting more pressure to cause the pooling again?
I really don't know hence why I'm asking. Thanks

As you tighten down the post the center makes clear contact with the hole surrounding but as you proceed from the outward it's a micro thin layer that separates off of the playfield ... Your mileage may vary but 1700 plays later no chipping

#13535 3 months ago

No pooling at all here..

098CF79D-E4A6-4B90-AB17-EB8FF1617C2B (resized).jpeg8EECBE54-C881-4D00-BCFB-0224E3595318 (resized).jpeg
#13536 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

No pooling at all here..
[quoted image][quoted image]

Is that the thicker posts?

#13537 3 months ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Is that the thicker posts?

Those posts are different than earlier this year. Perhaps a no-hex base makes it difficult to overtighten.

#13538 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

No pooling at all here..
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those do look different, what the machine number or build date?

#13539 3 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I'd arrest the chipping edge on the inside with clear nail polish (and let that dry) before putting down the washer.

Good advice there. I was just putting them on over it (and hoping).

I like that idea and will try that. Thanks man!

#13540 3 months ago

I’m so lost on looking up what’s required to make this new pin playable. And I tore down a Williams Indy SuperPin to the PF (seems much easier). Is this normal for NIB?

#13541 3 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

As you tighten down the post the center makes clear contact with the hole surrounding but as you proceed from the outward it's a micro thin layer that separates off of the playfield ... Your mileage may vary but 1700 plays later no chipping

Are you using the factory washers as well? Or just post to petg?

#13542 3 months ago
Quoted from Shmilder:

Are you using the factory washers as well? Or just post to petg?

Post to PETG

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/226#post-6338289

#13543 3 months ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

I’m so lost on looking up what’s required to make this new pin playable. And I tore down a Williams Indy SuperPin to the PF (seems much easier). Is this normal for NIB?

See my post here

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/226#post-6338289

#13544 3 months ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Those do look different, what the machine number or build date?

B/W posts

#13545 3 months ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

I’m so lost on looking up what’s required to make this new pin playable. And I tore down a Williams Indy SuperPin to the PF (seems much easier). Is this normal for NIB?

Nothing really, maybe some minor tweaks out of the box. Just recently I recieved an LE made in July with all of the latest fixes. Had to adjust the lock posts and ramp divertor, both were quick tweaks. Game plays great.

On a latest build I think it's unnecessary to change out the washers, apply mylar, etc. The latest builds have a combo of washers, nuts, and who knows what else that have pretty much stopped all reports of pooling / chipping.

#13546 3 months ago

My Cliffy kit finally arrived,
Thanks for the awesome products Cliff
So the fun begins

20210814_194524 (resized).jpg20210814_203017 (resized).jpg20210814_203032 (resized).jpg
#13547 3 months ago
Quoted from RA77:

My Cliffy kit finally arrived,
Thanks for the awesome products Cliff
So the fun begins
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I noticed you put the factory metal washers on the petg washers.. have you been running this combo for any length of time to prove that out?

#13548 3 months ago

Trying to figure out where to splice the power for some homebrew backbox lighting. The key post doesn't do a good job of explaining it. It says "I spliced the wires".

Ok... But... I'm not that smart and need help.

Thanks everyone!

#13549 3 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

This is exactly what I'm doing. 3/4" clear PETG washers. Had to notch one of them. Just started these at the inlane/outlane posts. Minimal pooling and lifting. The pictures make it look worse than it is I think. Gonna get to the rest of them tonight hopefully.
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Just FYI I did not use metal washers on top of the petg I think those will add too much pressure and you're going to now create a larger circle of pooling... Again your mileage may vary I'm just saying what I've experienced over 1,700 plays using posts on bare PETG with no metal washer. The point of using the petg was that it was rigid but yet slightly flexible to allow some give at the edges I'm afraid a metal washer is going to force down too much of that contact surface and you're going to create a larger problem over time... just my opinion though

#13550 3 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

Trying to figure out where to splice the power for some homebrew backbox lighting. The key post doesn't do a good job of explaining it. It says "I spliced the wires".
Ok... But... I'm not that smart and need help.
Thanks everyone!

You need to know whether the led strip is 5V or 12v. You can use a computer ATX power splitter (like this: amazon.com link ») to split off the pwr1 connector on the big board in the backbox. But that will have both 5v and 12v so you need to know what you need. You also should keep track of the amp draw so you don't overload the line.

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