(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

3 years ago


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  • 27,994 posts
  • 1,056 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by konghusker
  • Topic is favorited by 466 Pinsiders

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“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 188 votes
    17%
  • LE 628 votes
    57%
  • SE 77 votes
    7%
  • None 218 votes
    20%

(1111 votes)

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#8501 2 years ago
Quoted from Crumbalimb:

Got Liors mods in today.They look Awesome
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah it is top quality stuff for sure. No regrets here. If a machine deserves a splurge on some nice stuff, it is this one. When I see an LE without them it looks naked now that I am used to the way mine looks.

#8502 2 years ago

Got my game on Wednesday and I still haven’t seen it ON .
this happened on a 110v game, which i converted as instructed to the 220v configuration.
Once the task was complete, with the game’s switch still OFF, I attempted to plug it into the wall and had the circuit breaker for the room trip.

Been communicating with Barry via emails Thursday (fantastic response throughout the day, back and forth) and we got to the power box with a toasted varistor. He then sent me the info so I can quickly find a local varistor and replace.

-Made sure (with the same photos attached here) that the changes made to my connectors are correct. they’re good.
-This game has an auto switching ATX so all ok in that department.
-Fuse right next to it is also fine, and has since been replaced in any case, by an appropriate one as specified for a Euro 220v.

1) What should be checked for BEFORE turning on for the first time, after replacing the varistor?
2) Assuming the conversion was made correctly and left untouched, I turn the game on and everything runs fine - how do I figure out what caused this to happen in the first place? I want make sure this doesn’t happen again.
37375143-7168-4E3D-AF83-288D159416DD (resized).jpeg37375143-7168-4E3D-AF83-288D159416DD (resized).jpeg50D9FA7B-E27D-49A4-8BB9-CF675B986D36 (resized).jpeg50D9FA7B-E27D-49A4-8BB9-CF675B986D36 (resized).jpegACC492FF-60DD-4977-9386-D6E31DB23AA2 (resized).jpegACC492FF-60DD-4977-9386-D6E31DB23AA2 (resized).jpeg

F4925F75-1418-465F-97FE-E9CCB16AAF30 (resized).jpegF4925F75-1418-465F-97FE-E9CCB16AAF30 (resized).jpeg

ACC43198-4CFA-411C-8CAD-B51FA1320E1E (resized).jpegACC43198-4CFA-411C-8CAD-B51FA1320E1E (resized).jpeg

#8503 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

What pooling playfields? WTF did that come from?

You took the words right out of my mouth.

#8504 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

What pooling playfields? WTF did that come from?

A bunch of the tiny city inserts on the playfield raising is all I've seen pictures of. No pooling I can think of.

#8505 2 years ago
Quoted from Crumbalimb:

Got Liors mods in today.They look Awesome

Those look great. Is there a list somewhere of the must have mods foe the LE?

Also, are mirror blades recommended for the LE?

What do the production numbers of the LEs like now? How long is the order backlog?

#8506 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

You don't want to "minimize" the multiballs. It sounds like you don't understand the game rules.
The pre-song multiballs are boosters, your goal is to hit as many jackpots for them as you can prior to the song, which will maximize your song jackpot.
Stacking them helps achieve this.
They are an intentional part of the gameplay and if you're trying to avoid them, you're missing the point.
I mean, if you want to minimize your score and your fun, go for it.

You misunderstood. I’d like to minimize THE FADE as much as possible.

Iow, if using both the new code and Tibetan Breeze could help minimize the fade, I’m all for combining them.

#8507 2 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

You misunderstood. I’d like to minimize THE FADE as much as possible.

Have you installed the beta code? It sounds like it helps a lot.

#8508 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Have you installed the beta code? It sounds like it helps a lot.

Nah, I stayed away from the beta just in case they “accidentally” threw in a brick that prevented wifi updates. Again.

#8509 2 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

Nah, I stayed away from the beta just in case they “accidentally” threw in a brick that prevented wifi updates. Again.

If it's a choice between extreme fade or the beta with much less fade, I'd take the beta. You can always do a USB install if things go sideways, but I don't expect a repeat of the wifi debacle.

#8510 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

A bunch of the tiny city inserts on the playfield raising is all I've seen pictures of. No pooling I can think of.

You guys are too funny. Ignoring it will not make it go away.. but hopefully they changed what they were doing to prevent the pooling/chipping on what's coming in now. BTW, pooling and chipping usually happens after about 30 days and a bunch of games, something within that formula.

Just play your machine and don't worry about it, it's not a Ferrari...

22bedbed7cfda18ffd64b803ee38da0347f5f609 (resized).jpg22bedbed7cfda18ffd64b803ee38da0347f5f609 (resized).jpg4fa77cda8db4f92009f42a6f9c67d2b2a1622aea (resized).jpg4fa77cda8db4f92009f42a6f9c67d2b2a1622aea (resized).jpg
#8511 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Wiz:

You guys are too funny. Ignoring it will not make it go away.. but hopefully they changed what they were doing to prevent the pooling/chipping on what's coming in now. BTW, pooling and chipping usually happens after about 30 days and a bunch of games, something within that formula.
Just play your machine and don't worry about it, it's not a Ferrari... [quoted image][quoted image]

If you have a playfield doing this, REPAIR the pooled part or it WILL chip off. Yelobird has a great tutorial here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

#8512 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If it's a choice between extreme fade or the beta with much less fade, I'd take the beta. You can always do a USB install if things go sideways, but I don't expect a repeat of the wifi debacle.

How long before beta becomes official? I can keep busy with the other pins while waiting. And speaking of waiting, are you expecting your fans to ship soon or still weeks out?

#8513 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Wiz:

You guys are too funny. Ignoring it will not make it go away.. but hopefully they changed what they were doing to prevent the pooling/chipping on what's coming in now. BTW, pooling and chipping usually happens after about 30 days and a bunch of games, something within that formula.
Just play your machine and don't worry about it, it's not a Ferrari... [quoted image][quoted image]

Are these images your machine? Or just a hodgepodge of images that have appeared in the thread since October?

#8514 2 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

How long before beta becomes official? I can keep busy with the other pins while waiting. And speaking of waiting, are you expecting your fans to ship soon or still weeks out?

I have no idea how long the code will be in beta, but I'd just do it. You can always jump back with a USB install if you need to.

The domestic backorders of the jjGnR Tibetan Breeze kits have started shipping. I hope to be caught up by the end of next week and I can open general orders again.

#8515 2 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Are these images your machine? Or just a hodgepodge of images that have appeared in the thread since October?

It's images of GNR playfields with pooling after someone tried to pretend it's never happened on GNR playfields. LMAO. I know someone with a chipped GNR playfield, want me to go over and get some time-stamped taken-today new photo's to make you feel better?

And like I said, he's playing the crap out of it and enjoying it. If you're buying a early run GNR it would be the first thing I'd look for and I wouldn't pay full price for one with it!

#8516 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Wiz:

It's images of GNR playfields with pooling after someone tried to pretend it's never happened on GNR playfields. LMAO. I know someone with a chipped GNR playfield, want me to go over and get some time-stamped taken-today new photo's to make you feel better?
And like I said, he's playing the crap out of it and enjoying it. If you're buying a early run GNR it would be the first thing I'd look for and I wouldn't pay full price for one with it!

The reason he asked is your pics are old, from an early production game when this was a known issue. No one is ignoring it, especially JJP, hence all the measures they took to correct it.

#8517 2 years ago

Any one wanna buy a set of Lior's mods from me? I ordered them and they arrived today. They look awesome, but I've decided to keep the original CE items in place. I love all of his work, so I had to at least get whatever he had before it became unavailable. If interested, send me a message and I'll get them to you right away..

GnR mods (resized).jpgGnR mods (resized).jpg
-1
#8518 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

The reason he asked is your pics are old, from an early production game when this was a known issue. No one is ignoring it, especially JJP, hence all the measures they took to correct it.

Screen Shot 2021-04-23 at 1.16.12 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-04-23 at 1.16.12 AM (resized).png
#8519 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballGalore:

Got my game on Wednesday and I still haven’t seen it ON .
this happened on a 110v game, which i converted as instructed to the 220v configuration.
Once the task was complete, with the game’s switch still OFF, I attempted to plug it into the wall and had the circuit breaker for the room trip.
Been communicating with Barry via emails Thursday (fantastic response throughout the day, back and forth) and we got to the power box with a toasted varistor. He then sent me the info so I can quickly find a local varistor and replace.
-Made sure (with the same photos attached here) that the changes made to my connectors are correct. they’re good.
-This game has an auto switching ATX so all ok in that department.
-Fuse right next to it is also fine, and has since been replaced in any case, by an appropriate one as specified for a Euro 220v.
1) What should be checked for BEFORE turning on for the first time, after replacing the varistor?
2) Assuming the conversion was made correctly and left untouched, I turn the game on and everything runs fine - how do I figure out what caused this to happen in the first place? I want make sure this doesn’t happen again.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

i had this b4 on a STTNG and it was a arc- ing problem

#8520 2 years ago
Quoted from Bmanpin:

I would like this explained as well. It seems that every time I fire it up even though it’s in shuffle mode estranged is the first song that plays without fail I’m not sure how to advance songs in the jukebox mode or if that’s even possible?

It's all in the settings. When you push the action button the jukebox will start in shuffle or ordered mode. Depending on your setting. Pressing the action button again skips track. Pushing the action button longer will turn of the jukebox. I think that is it. I love this feature so nice to play the clips and see the lightshow.

20210423_100139 (resized).jpg20210423_100139 (resized).jpg
#8521 2 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

Dude just fuck off. I'll discuss my issues with my game if I want.

Fortunately those are from an early run.Fortunately Sterns didn’t have this issue?

#8522 2 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Fortunately those are from an early run.Fortunately Sterns didn’t have this issue?

Stern has absolutely had this problem (and warped playfields, both concave and convex recently) to varying degrees on Jurassic Park and newer.

#8523 2 years ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

Those look great. Is there a list somewhere of the must have mods foe the LE?
Also, are mirror blades recommended for the LE?
What do the production numbers of the LEs like now? How long is the order backlog?

I got the mirror blades on my LE and highly recommend them. Looks awesome especially with this light show.

#8524 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Stern has absolutely had this problem (and warped playfields, both concave and convex recently) to varying degrees on Jurassic Park and newer.

I was being a smartass!The above JJP criticism was just out of the blue from a collection that’s all Sterns

#8525 2 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

It's all in the settings. When you push the action button the jukebox will start in shuffle or ordered mode. Depending on your setting. Pressing the action button again skips track. Pushing the action button longer will turn of the jukebox. I think that is it. I love this feature so nice to play the clips and see the lightshow.
[quoted image]

OK I thought the action button started a new game when it was set to free play. I’ll have to take a look.

#8526 2 years ago

Does anyone else's spotlights look like this? My right side one aims much higher at rest. It shines in the player's eye. Left side aims down and out of my face. Both work fine and move like they should in test mode. I didn't see a way to calibrate their rest position. Are these adjustable?

spotlights (resized).PNGspotlights (resized).PNG
#8527 2 years ago

Also, are mirror blades recommended for the LE?

I have black mirror on mine and frankly they look as if they should have came with the game! They really enhance the look and the light show, highly recommend. Relatively easy install and they do not seem to interfere with raising/lowering the playfield.

#8528 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Wiz:

It's images of GNR playfields with pooling after someone tried to pretend it's never happened on GNR playfields. LMAO. I know someone with a chipped GNR playfield, want me to go over and get some time-stamped taken-today new photo's to make you feel better?
And like I said, he's playing the crap out of it and enjoying it. If you're buying a early run GNR it would be the first thing I'd look for and I wouldn't pay full price for one with it!

I think that's all people here are trying to say, pooling / chipping affected early run games but has since been resolved. We haven't seen any widespread reports of pooling / chipping on newer build games. Still BS it happened and JJP should at least send affected buyers a new playfield.

#8529 2 years ago

I'm having an interesting issue and hoping somebody has some good ideas. My left ramp diverter will not go down when the playfield is horizontal. As soon as I put the playfield vertical to check it out everything works perfect. If I pull it out and rest it on the rails it works as well. So that leaves me in an interesting place trying to triage the issue. Any ideas?

#8530 2 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Does anyone else's spotlights look like this? My right side one aims much higher at rest. It shines in the player's eye. Left side aims down and out of my face. Both work fine and move like they should in test mode. I didn't see a way to calibrate their rest position. Are these adjustable?[quoted image]

I would check the wires going to the lights to ensure they have enough slack. Mine were somewhat tight and this leads me to believe this is what caused the linkage to my lights to break.

You might want to reroute the wiring so that stress is not put on the linkage.

#8531 2 years ago
Quoted from Crumbalimb:

Got Liors mods in today.They look Awesome
[quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice. Anyone have the action button mod from cointaker? How is it? Pics? Any durability issues? The trailing vines are fragile and it has me concerned... Mine arrived already broken. They are sending a replacement but just wondering if it will sit flush on the action button and lockdown bar...... And how long I can expect this design to last after the first smash of the action button to cash out? Experience? Thoughts?

20210419_072950 (resized).jpg20210419_072950 (resized).jpg
#8532 2 years ago
Quoted from Bmanpin:

OK I thought the action button started a new game when it was set to free play. I’ll have to take a look.

There’s a setting to enable start game with action button. Unfortunately, if you have that option on AND jukebox; the code doesn’t know how to handle it, so jukebox won’t work.

#8533 2 years ago
Quoted from atg1469:

Also, are mirror blades recommended for the LE?
I have black mirror on mine and frankly they look as if they should have came with the game! They really enhance the look and the light show, highly recommend. Relatively easy install and they do not seem to interfere with raising/lowering the playfield.

#8534 2 years ago

Also, are mirror blades recommended for the LE?
I have black mirror on mine and frankly they look as if they should have came with the game! They really enhance the look and the light show, highly recommend. Relatively easy install and they do not seem to interfere with raising/lowering the playfield.</blockquot

If possible can you post some pics of your machine with the black mirror blades. Thanks

#8535 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Very nice. Anyone have the action button mod from cointaker? How is it? Pics? Any durability issues? The trailing vines are fragile and it has me concerned... Mine arrived already broken. They are sending a replacement but just wondering if it will sit flush on the action button and lockdown bar...... And how long I can expect this design to last after the first smash of the action button to cash out? Experience? Thoughts?[quoted image]

It looks like Cointaker is selling the Back Alley Creations version of this mod? May want to put some additional adhesive on the vines if there isn't already.

#8536 2 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Does anyone else's spotlights look like this? My right side one aims much higher at rest. It shines in the player's eye. Left side aims down and out of my face. Both work fine and move like they should in test mode. I didn't see a way to calibrate their rest position. Are these adjustable?[quoted image]

Mine are like that also, I noticed it last night. I did a calibration test and they seem to move and function properly. I'm not sure if this is the default position though, it could be intentional to shine light on the upper playfield ?? Not sure... I'm going to put Cliffy's in today so I'll be removing the left one... I'll report back on my findings if any.

#8537 2 years ago

...

-1
#8538 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

I think that's all people here are trying to say, pooling / chipping affected early run games but has since been resolved. We haven't seen any widespread reports of pooling / chipping on newer build games. Still BS it happened and JJP should at least send affected buyers a new playfield.

My post of the guy that mentioned pooling NEVER said anything about "recent" playfields!! Jesus. You do realize that there are old Standard edition machines that are NOS, right? People are just opening them!!

get over it!! It is what it is!

Again, it personally doesn't bother me!

#8539 2 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

I would check the wires going to the lights to ensure they have enough slack. Mine were somewhat tight and this leads me to believe this is what caused the linkage to my lights to break.
You might want to reroute the wiring so that stress is not put on the linkage.

Wires have slack. That all looks good.

#8540 2 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Wires have slack. That all looks good.

Okay, looking closely (this is my OCD kicking in) it appears that the lights are mounted appropriate to their position, the one on the left has the support bracket on the top and articulating arm for it's mounting solution, the one on the right the opposite. If you flipped the default position of the right light you would have the same light orientation but the articulating arm and mounting solution would be on the wrong side.

Also to consider the left is mounted on a metal bracket that depending on the mounting, could be slightly lower/angled versus the right one...

I took some pics default and then one straightening the back bracket on the left which appears to be leaning forward slightly...I'll get a better look when i take off the upper playfield to install the cliffy...it's hard to tell...both are mounted on metal brackets so it's probably just adjusting to your liking

I'm just throwing out guesses, anyone with insider info would be able to give a better response...I honestly don't notice it much at 5' 8"

20210423_111422 (resized).jpg20210423_111422 (resized).jpg20210423_111443 (resized).jpg20210423_111443 (resized).jpg20210423_111458 (resized).jpg20210423_111458 (resized).jpg20210423_111513 (resized).jpg20210423_111513 (resized).jpg
#8541 2 years ago

Great pictures! Your posts and pictures of your journey is helping the agonizing wait before they ship mine... Sometime this fall I was told. Thanks! (Ordered 12/30 from JJP in case anyone is wondering)

#8542 2 years ago

What company makes the best mirror blades for this game in the US? Mine comes in on Monday.

#8543 2 years ago

Cliffy scoop protector requires a bit of trimming to get fit properly in order to avoid the upright ball coil locks... Maybe they have a new cut on the play field I'm not sure but there was definite metal on metal rubbing I just used the Dremel and a light touch marked what I needed to cut both pieces needed filing...

Here's some before and afters

20210423_140658 (resized).jpg20210423_140658 (resized).jpg20210423_141024 (resized).jpg20210423_141024 (resized).jpg20210423_141346 (resized).jpg20210423_141346 (resized).jpg20210423_141526 (resized).jpg20210423_141526 (resized).jpg
#8544 2 years ago

Finished scoop

20210423_142733 (resized).jpg20210423_142733 (resized).jpg20210423_142750 (resized).jpg20210423_142750 (resized).jpg
#8545 2 years ago

Didn't really need it but diverter protector installed anyway If you got an I fix it kit that has small tools for handling small objects these really come in handy here without having to disassemble ramps

20210423_144331 (resized).jpg20210423_144331 (resized).jpg
#8546 2 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Fortunately those are from an early run.Fortunately Sterns didn’t have this issue?

Comes into an owners thread, starts shit about a couple of early playfield pic's out of the 1000's that have been done, then says he doesn't give a fuck.
Of course he doesn't, he doesn't own one.

trollweb (resized).jpgtrollweb (resized).jpg

#8547 2 years ago

Probably way overkill, but while I was removing the upper playfield, I noticed the left spotlight wires rub across the metal bracket that supports the spotlight..and in order for it to have proper slack needs to route this way. (Came from factory)...

So I added a piece of mylar to the metal edge, just to prevent those wires from being cut down the road

Can't even see it
Screenshot_20210423-170449_Photos~3 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20210423-170449_Photos~3 (resized).jpg

16
#8548 2 years ago

Okay so to summarize here's what I did to remove the upper play field to put on the cliffy on the scoop:

For pictures I just referenced Vitty's post which was on page 150 of this thread I believe.

1. Removed bass guitar wire frame... Just two nuts and two washers holding in place... Entire assembly goes straight up 90 degrees to the play field and then pulls out of the holes in the upper play field.

2. Remove two nuts holding axl in place. Removed axl

3. Lift playfield. Locate molex connector and rj 45 to upper playfield unplug.

4. The next part requires some patience there's a yellow and green wire that runs up to a control board also ties into a black and red wire... In order to have enough slack to lift the playfield you'll need to trace this wire from the upper play field to the connection point and unplug it take your time you'll find it. Also will require cutting zip ties to give yourself some slack Make sure to take plenty of pictures. Again I didn't remove the upper playfield entirely I simply provided enough slack to the cables that were there that once the playfield is lowered I was able to lift it up and put a microfiber towel underneath to protect the upper playfield from the main.

5. Remove the two screws holding the scoop protector in place.

6. Lower playfield.

7. Remove the left spotlight wiring so that you're not putting any undo stress on the light when you lift the playfield.

8. Remove four screws in the upper play field a long magnet really helps here.

9. Carefully lift up on the upper play field and have a thick microfiber towel at the ready to be able to slide underneath to protect the lower surface from the upper If you feel resistance stop make sure that you have clearance on the wires below You shouldn't have to move it that much we're only trying to get it out of the way so that we can get to the scoop assembly.

10. Next unscrew the two nuts holding the metal guitar shelf guide and remove

11. Unscrew the nut holding the plastic in place which also doubles as a one-way ballgate, You should be able to lift the plastic off now.

12. Using a hex driver, loosen the two posts, one has a ring bumper on it, The other has a larger ring that spans to a post.

13. Unscrew the two screws that are holding the vuk ball guide... You should now be able to remove the two brackets that hold the blue rubber bumpers

14. Remove the inner scoop protector... I did this by pushing down on the front and pulling up on the back work slowly so is to not damage the scoop hole.

15. There will be some adhesive left over on the playfield from the previous mantis protector I left mine in place as it still had enough stickiness to function to hold down the cliffy

16. Here's where we may differ My cliffy's once installed needed to be ground down a little bit with the Dremel because I had them interfering with the two ball locks and metal was scraping... You may be okay but this is definitely a place you want to make sure you have clearance before you screw everything back together.

17. Insert the new cliffy by putting the front end in first, The clip should spring to the playfield and the sides need to be slightly pinched and it should just pop right in

18. Insert the back wall inner cliffy protector again trial fit to make sure you have clearance

19. Now just reassemble everything in reverse order starting with the vuk ball guide to lock the cliff in place followed by the two rubber bumper brackets and then the posts

20. Once you've reassembled the top playfield lift it up again and resecure all the wires that you loosened and cut zip ties for.

21. Make sure none of your wires are crossing the vuk, and also make sure you have slack on your left spotlight so that it can move freely.

That's it... It sounds a lot worse than it actually is Just be sure to take your time take lots of pictures label stuff if you're not sure don't rush This is definitely not something you're going to knock out in a 30 minutes..It took me about three hours talking my time.

Couple of notes that I did as extras:

I put a couple drops of blue loctite on the two scoop ball guide screws

Couple posts back I showed were the wires crossed in front of the metal frame housing for the left spotlight here's where I put some mylar to protect the wires from frame over time over time again maybe overkill but I'd rather have a little overkill protection than have to send away for a new assembly due to cut wires

For the dremel cuts on the cliffy, I used a sharpie to mark the areas that needed to be cut, used a simple sanding wheel at high speed ..go very slowly.. as you only want to remove what metal is interfering and no more

Also while I had to play field off I took the opportunity to replace whatever PL slings and rings that they had assembled with Titan clears

Hope this helps

#8549 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Probably way overkill, but while I was removing the upper playfield, I noticed the left spotlight wires rub across the metal bracket that supports the spotlight..and in order for it to have proper slack needs to route this way. (Came from factory)...
So I added a piece of mylar to the metal edge, just to prevent those wires from being cut down the road
Can't even see it
[quoted image]

I put some wire loom on there for the same reason.

#8550 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Great pictures! Your posts and pictures of your journey is helping the agonizing wait before they ship mine... Sometime this fall I was told. Thanks! (Ordered 12/30 from JJP in case anyone is wondering)

Dear God I hope it's not the fall. I ordered mine Dec 1 and I'm hoping for end of May, but I have not been told any dates.

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FlipMods
Flipper parts
From: $ 210.00
12,800 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Boca Raton, FL
$ 28.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
Toys/Add-ons
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 14.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
€ 69.00
Pinball Machine
Multiball mods
Pinball Machine
$ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 49.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 12.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
From: $ 8.99
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
Decorations
7,800 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Indianapolis, IN
$ 10,200.00
Pinball Machine
The Pinball Place
Pinball Machine
$ 6.00
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
Other
$ 124.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
Toys/Add-ons
$ 210.00
Flipper Parts
Pin Monk
Flipper parts
From: $ 35.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
$ 95.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Mod Co.
Sound/Speakers
$ 50.00
Playfield - Protection
Duke Pinball
Protection
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 649.95
Lighting - Interactive
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Interactive
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