(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

1 year ago


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  • Latest reply 44 minutes ago by Vespula
  • Topic is favorited by 418 Pinsiders

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“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 181 votes
    18%
  • LE 535 votes
    54%
  • SE 66 votes
    7%
  • None 209 votes
    21%

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#8801 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Interesting and really good to know, I thought I read back in this thread that the engineers at JJP were sending out full assemblies instead of parts for the spotlights because they needed to be calibrated, have you found anything out of sync after centering them up post repair? Is the reason for centering them for this purpose or is it to prevent the arms from breaking. This would dfinitely be handy down the road

I was advised the same thing, and people should definitely listen to JJP support over me!
Repairs are at your own risk as always.

I just decided to take a crack at it myself and was happy with the result. I do believe centering is the main issue, it's a little fiddly to dial in.

It can also be done very wrong; for example if the servo was at a full extent position instead of the midpoint when you screwed it in, the spotlight would immediately overextend when moved.

I debated whether or not to post this but mostly I wanted to quell people's fears about the spotlight servos, it's something we can easily keep alive over time. The RC hobby community has paved the way for us.

#8802 9 months ago

My Axl magnet burnt out and JJP sent me another one. I am wondering if anyone has replaced it and not have it burnt out again? Just thought I would ask before installing it, just to have it stop working again.
Thanks!

#8803 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Near as I can tell the servos are just a wear item and the occasional bad part happens.
It does not seem to be specific to our use case; I saw a YouTube video of a guy whose model airplane crashed because a servo seized up.
I replaced the left vertical one myself, the servos are available at hobby shops and are cheap.
You do need to be careful to attach the arm with the servo and spotlight both in the center position.
I used this successfully:
https://www.hobbytown.com/emax-es3054-20g-metal-gear-digital-servo-emx-0102004012/p1127012
The OEM part was:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-hk15148b-digital-servo-2-8kg-0-14sec-19g.html

Nice to know these are parts that are available outside of JJP. Have you tried sourcing those arms that are breaking?

#8804 9 months ago
Quoted from jefryan:

Well, I received LE #745 just over a week ago and have been busy playing non-stop!
Only issues thus far:
- A screw fell out of the upper playfield (top-most, left side) clear plastic mounted to two posts (took me over an hour before I finally found this bastard!)
- Last night I noticed my upper playfield and upper right flippers seem to only be working 70% of the time. Need to figure this out now. I've checked the wires that connect and they all seem securely soldered where they should be. All backbone connections are secure as well. Of course I checked just the ones that are plugged in... does someone have a picture of what the J601-1 connections look like in the backbox?

Check your flipper switches opposite the buttons on each side inside the cabinet. The flipper switch is a stack where when you press the flipper button, it pushes the first switch together to enable the bottom flipper, then as you press through, you enable contact with the second leaf switch to enable the second flipper on each side. It's likely that that second leaf just needs to be bent in toward the flipper button a little so it makes reliable contact every time.

To see what's happening, with the playfield up, press the flipper button slowly as you watch the switch action. The last contact point is probably barely or not being made, which is your problem.

#8805 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Check your flipper switches opposite the buttons on each side inside the cabinet. The flipper switch is a stack where you have to enable the first leaf switch, then press through to enable contact with the second leaf switch to enable the second flipper on each side. It's likely that that second leaf just needs to be bend in toward the flipper button a little so it makes reliable contact every time.

You are the FKN MAN!!!! Thanks a ton brother. Cheers to you.

#8806 9 months ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Nice to know these are parts that are available outside of JJP. Have you tried sourcing those arms that are breaking?

Yeah, it's really not worth freaking out over. I see people unplugging spotlights, being fearful of code, etc.

I have not found the control arm yet but would like to, it has to be something common.

In a worst case I'm sure one of the 3d printer folks could dupe something.

#8807 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Yeah, it's really not worth freaking out over. I see people unplugging spotlights, being fearful of code, etc.
I have not found the control arm yet but would like to, it has to be something common.
In a worst case I'm sure one of the 3d printer folks could dupe something.

yeah compared to the old days we are living in a golden age of pinball maintenance with the availability of 3d printers.

#8808 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I was advised the same thing, and people should definitely listen to JJP support over me!
Repairs are at your own risk as always.
I just decided to take a crack at it myself and was happy with the result. I do believe centering is the main issue, it's a little fiddly to dial in.
It can also be done very wrong; for example if the servo was at a full extent position instead of the midpoint when you screwed it in, the spotlight would immediately overextend when moved.
I debated whether or not to post this but mostly I wanted to quell people's fears about the spotlight servos, it's something we can easily keep alive over time. The RC hobby community has paved the way for us.

Thank you very much for the explanation

#8809 9 months ago
Quoted from lpgnr:

I was wondering what “LTG” stood for

In the US Army = Lieutenant General !

#8810 9 months ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Funny enough a few years ago when I first came across LTG, I thought it was some pinball or real life abbreviation, like LMAO. So I googled and got the result LEARN TO GOOGLE. I thought That wasn’t a very nice way to help someone out here lol.

You aren't the first one to think that. Some even get very mad about it.

LTG : )

#8811 9 months ago
Quoted from AvidPinPlayer:

In the US Army = Lieutenant General !

You left out a lot. Lost The Game. Little Tiny Gonads. Loves Thai Girls. And my own personal favorite, Launch Those Geese !

LTG : )

#8812 9 months ago

I always thought it was Long Thick Girth.

#8813 9 months ago

Regarding the spotlights, I have my right one freshly replaced (kudos for top-notch support from JJP) after the X-axis died.
However, I think the problem COULD happen again, because I noticed the right spotlight is under excessive stress during test mode:
- when the left spotlight is tested, it moves and you can hear the servo stops almost instantly after reaching its position
- when the right spotlight is tested, it is different, and I can clearly hear the servo still trying to move the spotlight even after it reaches its position. It is also moving LESS than the left one, which could explain why the servo is still running even if the spotlight cannot move anymore.

I have checked several and nothing prevent the right spotlight to move freely, it simply does not have the same area covered than the left one.

pinball_keefer Could you explain if there is a signal sent back from the servo(s) that you check to spot moving the spotlight ?

#8814 9 months ago
Quoted from Leo13:

- when the right spotlight is tested, it is different, and I can clearly hear the servo still trying to move the spotlight even after it reaches its position. It is also moving LESS than the left one, which could explain why the servo is still running even if the spotlight cannot move anymore.

My right one moves less than the left also. I believe it to be intentional.

#8815 9 months ago

Can you check if the servo is still powered when the spotlight stops to move ? If yes, then there could be some change in the code to prevent excessive stress on the servo(s)

#8816 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Launch Those Geese !

20 years ago.

LTG : )
Disclaimer : David Gersic coined the phrase.

Amug1 (resized).jpeg
#8817 9 months ago
Quoted from Leo13:

Can you check if the servo is still powered when the spotlight stops to move ? If yes, then there could be some change in the code to prevent excessive stress on the servo(s)

All I've got handy is this video I made after doing the repair on the left one.
You can see the range of motion on the right compared to the left (which is how it has been since day one.)

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B11G9Gd2NGRZ542

#8818 9 months ago

I thought I read that there was a way to adjust the monitor settings such as brightness and resolution. Anyone know where to find these settings?

#8819 9 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

I thought I read that there was a way to adjust the monitor settings such as brightness and resolution. Anyone know where to find these settings?

Little buttons on the actual monitor panel. You have to open the backbox.

#8820 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Little buttons on the actual monitor panel. You have to open the backbox.

Thank you

#8821 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Little buttons on the actual monitor panel. You have to open the backbox.

I know monitor/ tv displays vary... Anyone have tweaked settings to get a little better blacks/contrast.. default was 100 brightness and 50 contrast..I changed it to 40 brightness 100 contrast, it's slightly better but wondering if anyone has something better dialed in?

Any possibility of seeing future system settings to adjust the signal?

#8822 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I know monitor/ tv displays vary... Anyone have tweaked settings to get a little better blacks/contrast.. default was 100 brightness and 50 contrast..I changed it to 40 brightness 100 contrast, it's slightly better but wondering if anyone has something better dialed in?
Any possibility of seeing future system settings to adjust the signal?

Try 25-50 Brightness and 75-90 contrast and turn the gamma on (if you have that option) and see how that looks. You want the brightness down as much as possible or you get gray blacks.

I don't have a GnR here to try that firsthand yet, but that should help. Let me know what it looks like with those settings.

#8823 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Reverse that. Try 25-50 Brightness and 75-90 contrast and turn the gamma on (if you have that option) and see how that looks. You want the brightness down as much as possible or you get gray blacks.
I don't have a GnR here to try that firsthand yet, but that should help. Let me know what it looks like with those settings.

Someone here tried 0 brightness and 100 contrast and got good results. I haven’t tweaked mine yet

#8824 9 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Someone here tried 0 brightness and 100 contrast and got good results. I haven’t tweaked mine yet

That may work, but I would think 0 brightness would muddy the shadows too much.

12
#8825 9 months ago

Thanks guys...Okay, I did some tinkering.

This is in a completely dark room the way I play so your results my vary a little.

My defaults from JJP on the monitor were 100 Brightness and 50 Contrast.

(To access the monitor controls (see pics at bottom of post), insert your backbox key that you originally had attached to the shooter rod and most likely have it hanging inside the coin door. Remove backglass and pull on the top left and right of the monitor where it says "LCD PULL HERE". It requires a bit of force to break the magnet connection. The controls are on the right side. Menu Brings up the main menu. You can either scroll with the up down arrows to a new category or Press menu again to highlight the value you wish to change and use the left and right arrows to change the values. Press menu again and then use up down arrows to go to a new setting in the submenu. To back out to the front menu Press the Auto button. You can then select a new category and Menu to enter that submenu. It's a little tricky as the menu has a timeout, but you'll get the hang of it)

20210427_232757 (resized).jpg20210427_232802 (resized).jpg20210427_232823 (resized).jpg

Here are the setting adjustments:

settings (resized).jpg

1. I turned the Brightness down to zero at first then came up to 25 as it dimmed too much. 25 is just at the threshold where it started getting washed (again your results may vary depending on your ambient lighting) - for those with bright lighting conditions something in the 25-40 range for brightness may be more suitable. You'll have to experiement with this range to see what looks best to you

*** Daylight or bright environments: You can bump the brightness to 100 if you like for just that 'pop' that will be missing a little if you follow my settings and turn it down to 25...the key 2 settings that seem to be the most impactful are setting Contrast to 100 and sRGB to On for Color Temp

2. I adjusted the Contrast to 100

3. I left DCR off - On disables brightness and contrast and the monitor dynamically adjusts the contrast but I don't think it looked better

Next adjustment was the biggest one

4. I Changed the Color Temp to sRGB (default was on 6500k)

I took photos of each Color Temp setting and all but the sRGB have the white levels blown out

You can see the guitar strings of the first pic I have circled that clearly show the Strings and the detail in the guitars without becoming white washed out and have the best contrast ratios out of all the Color Temp options IMHO

You can also see more detail in the flames etc..it may not appear to be correct as your working on it because the backbox LED's are in your face and the monitor is not in its enclosure while your adjusting the settings.

results (resized).jpg

Give it a try.

Again I play in a dark room, this may not be the best setup for those with bright lit game areas

I think the following pics look much better than the default settings. (The blacks are much more pronounced)

There is still some compression showing and I would really like inkier blacks but that is probably due to monitor limitations and the fact it is 1080p and not 2k/4k..

It's pinball afterall and not a home theater

20210427_213011 (resized).jpg20210427_213323 (resized).jpg20210427_213325 (resized).jpg20210427_213140 (resized).jpg20210427_213327 (resized).jpg20210427_213419 (resized).jpg20210427_213359 (resized).jpg

#8826 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

20 years ago.
LTG : )
Disclaimer : David Gersic coined the phrase.
[quoted image]

Damn I thought it was “lovable trustworthy guy” all this time

CF486569-BAB8-482A-ACFA-45632A12F35F (resized).jpeg
#8827 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Thanks guys...Okay, I did some tinkering.
This is in a completely dark room the way I play so your results my vary a little.
My defaults from JJP on the monitor were 100 Brightness and 50 Contrast.
1. I turned the Brightness down to zero at first then came up to 25 as it dimmed too much. 25 is just at the threshold where it started getting washed (again your results may vary depending on your ambient lighting)
2. I adjusted the Contrast to 100
3. I left DCR off - On disables brightness and contrast and the monitor dynamically adjusts the contrast but I don't think it looked better
Next adjustment was the biggest one
4. I Changed the Color Temp to sRGB (default was on 6500k)
I took photos of each Color Temp setting and all but the sRGB have the whites levels blown out
You can see the guitar strings of the first pic I have circled that clearly show the Strings and the detail in the guitars without becoming white washed out and have the best contrast ratios out of all the Color Temp options IMHO
You can also see more detail in the flames etc..it may not appear to be correct as your working on it because the backbox LED's are in your face and the monitor is not in its enclosure while your adjusting the settings.
Give it a try.
Again I play in a dark room, this may not be the best setup for those with bright lit game areas
I think the following pics look much better that the default settings. (The blacks are much more pronounced)
There is still some compression showing and I would really like inkier blacks but that is probably due to monitor limitations and the fact it is 1080p and not 2k/4k..
It's pinball afterall and not a home theater
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks great. Thanks for sharing. May have to try it this weekend (if I can remember too lol).

#8828 9 months ago

I second that. Pictures, monitor, and pin looks amazing!

#8829 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Thanks guys...Okay, I did some tinkering.

I keyposted this so people can find it. It would benefit from a picture showing people where to find the adjustment buttons on the monitor. Otherwise, great work.

#8830 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I keyposted this so people can find it. It would benefit from a picture showing people where to find the adjustment buttons on the monitor. Otherwise, great work.

Great point, I edited the post to include pics and instructions.

Thank you for the help

#8831 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Great point, I edited the post to include pics and instructions.
Thank you for the help

Thanks for posting the detailed pics and instructions. If you want to move the pics to the instructions, you can cut and paste the tags at the bottom of the post in [square brackets] when you edit and put them with the text they refer to, then the pictures and instructions will be inline as you view the post instead of segregated. It's extra work, but I wasn't sure if you knew how to do it, so there.

#8832 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Thanks for posting the detailed pics and instructions. If you want to move the pics to the instructions, you can cut and paste the tags at the bottom of the post in [square brackets] when you edit and put them with the text they refer to, then the pictures and instructions will be inline as you view the post instead of segregated. It's extra work, but I wasn't sure if you knew how to do it, so there.

Ah that's a good point...I'll edit it that way, probably easier to consume

#8833 9 months ago

Does anyone have a photo of their trough assembly looking in from the shooter lane
Mines sloppy and looks to be missing a few bolts?

image (resized).jpg
#8834 9 months ago
Quoted from peely:

Does anyone have a photo of their trough assembly looking in from the shooter lane
Mines sloppy and looks to be missing a few bolts?
[quoted image]

You're missing the little flap that bolts there and helps retain the balls in the trough when you raise the playfield for service. Seems like you would have noticed if the screw fell out and the flap assembly fell over into the shooter lane So maybe it was never installed? I'd contact JJP Support and ask for one.

#8835 9 months ago

Thanks
That would be why the balls roll underneath the playfield into the cabinet

#8836 9 months ago
Quoted from peely:

Thanks
That would be why the balls roll underneath the playfield into the cabinet

Ball 1 Locked

#8837 9 months ago
Quoted from frobozz:

Ball 1 Locked

Lol

#8838 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Thanks guys...Okay, I did some tinkering.
This is in a completely dark room the way I play so your results my vary a little.
My defaults from JJP on the monitor were 100 Brightness and 50 Contrast.
(To access the monitor controls (see pics at bottom of post), insert your backbox key that you originally had attached to the shooter rod and most likely have it hanging inside the coin door. Remove backglass and pull on the top left and right of the monitor where it says "LCD PULL HERE". It requires a bit of force to break the magnet connection. The controls are on the right side. Menu Brings up the main menu. You can either scroll with the up down arrows to a new category or Press menu again to highlight the value you wish to change and use the left and right arrows to change the values. Press menu again and then use up down arrows to go to a new setting in the submenu. To back out to the front menu Press the Auto button. You can then select a new category and Menu to enter that submenu. It's a little tricky as the menu has a timeout, but you'll get the hang of it)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Here are the setting adjustments:
[quoted image]
1. I turned the Brightness down to zero at first then came up to 25 as it dimmed too much. 25 is just at the threshold where it started getting washed (again your results may vary depending on your ambient lighting)
2. I adjusted the Contrast to 100
3. I left DCR off - On disables brightness and contrast and the monitor dynamically adjusts the contrast but I don't think it looked better
Next adjustment was the biggest one
4. I Changed the Color Temp to sRGB (default was on 6500k)
I took photos of each Color Temp setting and all but the sRGB have the white levels blown out
You can see the guitar strings of the first pic I have circled that clearly show the Strings and the detail in the guitars without becoming white washed out and have the best contrast ratios out of all the Color Temp options IMHO
You can also see more detail in the flames etc..it may not appear to be correct as your working on it because the backbox LED's are in your face and the monitor is not in its enclosure while your adjusting the settings.
[quoted image]
Give it a try.
Again I play in a dark room, this may not be the best setup for those with bright lit game areas
I think the following pics look much better than the default settings. (The blacks are much more pronounced)
There is still some compression showing and I would really like inkier blacks but that is probably due to monitor limitations and the fact it is 1080p and not 2k/4k..
It's pinball afterall and not a home theater
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Gave it a shot and it does look a tiny bit better! Cheers and thanks for the time you spent on this!

#8839 9 months ago
Quoted from wcbrandes:

Gave it a shot and it does look a tiny bit better! Cheers and thanks for the time you spent on this!

Awesome - again for daylight or brighter conditions you may have to bump the brightness even back up to 100

The key takeaways are Contrast 100 and sRGB on seem to have the best impact on the black levels

The brightness is subjective.

I so wish this was a 1440p screen with a little bit better black ratios but it's still a great package

#8840 9 months ago

Anyone know where I can find a diagram of the the rings including the sizes? I scoured the manual but could not locate it.

#8841 9 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Anyone know where I can find a diagram of the the rings including the sizes? I scoured the manual but could not locate it.

Not in the manual yet.

I'd check Titan's ring database for amount and sizes. https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5755

LTG : )

#8842 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Not in the manual yet.
I'd check Titan's ring database for amount and sizes. https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5755
LTG : )

Thanks. I’ve only had the game about a week and a slingshot ring snapped. lol. Luckily there’s extra in the goodie bag

#8843 9 months ago
Quoted from bridgeman:

My Axl magnet burnt out and JJP sent me another one. I am wondering if anyone has replaced it and not have it burnt out again? Just thought I would ask before installing it, just to have it stop working again.
Thanks!

Mine burned out after updating to 1.14 and I have the replacement but have not yet installed it. When I do, I want it to be the only time I replace it.

#8844 9 months ago

Hey GnR folks. Just FYI, we've posted an instructional video on how to use the various features of ScorbitVision.

This outlines using Scorbit for Scoreboards, Leaderboards, Comboboards, Slideshows and Streamboards.

More info in this post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/scorbit-official-thread/page/5#post-6252475

#8845 9 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Just a thought I'm sharing to see what others think... I suspect over time, the drop from the upper playfield to the hole under the upper flipper may start to dent the wood. What about putting one of these Silicone Rubber Bumpers over the mylar to prevent (Maybe even cut at a slight angle). Is it overkill or potentially useful?
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=159
[quoted image]

I say overkill. The drop is already mylared, it's a spot out of sight, and it's not showing wear for us after nearly 3000 plays.

#8846 9 months ago
Quoted from AvidPinPlayer:

In the US Army = Lieutenant General !

Theres another "LTG" he's a fighting game personality (Street Fighter V, Tekken 7 etc.)

He is the most toxic, and also hilarious (unintended), fighting game player on the planet.

#8847 9 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

If you can backhand the left ramp you can really exploit the patch rules. Especially when the ramp diverter is up or on the SE where the ramp returns to the slower inlane allowing you to trap it on the left flipper. Rinse + repeat.

I've considered for quite a while putting in a no-hold penalty for shooting it 3x in a row, a la Crystal Ball lane on WOZ...

#8848 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

An interesting avenue to explore, for sure. This whole coil fade project has been very enlightening. Quite a number of unexpected outcomes. The Spike hold magic is the most surprising so far, though.
Neil? Paging NeilMcRae . Shall I send you some temp measuring equipment with your jjGnR fan kit so you can get some baseline 50hz machine temps before you put them on?

sure but I feel the fade on long games.

#8849 9 months ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

sure but I feel the fade on long games.

The testing worksheet is done with 5 minute notations of the real-time temps, so I could compare your fade chart to a US one to see if your fade onset happens later than a 60hz US machine. It would be interesting if true. I don't think it IS because once the power is converted to DC for the machine it shouldn't matter. But my personal belief doesn't sate my curiosity about the thought that it MIGHT have some unexplored effect.

#8850 9 months ago

Automated Services seems to be the only distributor that has SE's in stock. Looks like they upped the price recently

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