(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

1 year ago


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“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 181 votes
    18%
  • LE 535 votes
    54%
  • SE 66 votes
    7%
  • None 209 votes
    21%

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#8601 9 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

That's happened to me with LEs at 2 different locations. To avoid tilting I have to wait for the ball search. During a song that is a disappointment. When I get mine I may try a larger rubber ring on the post or a fat sleeve.

This worked for me. Simple fix (assuming your pin is level)... cut out a triangular piece of Mylar like this. Two versions of the photo, one with a line outlining the shape for visibility.

23044552-8A1D-43D8-BDD7-1E943CE96780 (resized).jpeg883F07B1-3BD5-484A-A866-CB9A9F6B7C16 (resized).jpeg

#8602 9 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

That's happened to me with LEs at 2 different locations. To avoid tilting I have to wait for the ball search. During a song that is a disappointment. When I get mine I may try a larger rubber ring on the post or a fat sleeve.

I thought so at first too, but looking at it from above, that looks like it will only make the cradle it sits in worse. I will try it though to rule that out

#8603 9 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

This worked for me. Simple fix (assuming your pin is level)... cut out a triangular piece of Mylar like this. Two versions of the photo, one with a line outlining the shape for visibility.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Oh man, going to try this right now...thank you, I'm assuming that raises the ball just a smidge to place more of the weight on the pop skirt, or does it just help it roll better

#8604 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Man I need a fix for the lower pop/bumper stuck ball issue...I didn't realize how common this was. My machine is level and setup correctly front to back and left to right. It happens with regularity and usually during critical times. Getting frustrating. Searching the threads here is what I've seen to alleviate the issue:
1. 3D Printed block that fits on post
2. foam on pop skirt
3. Adjusting pop strength
4. Adjusting pop sensitivity
5. Bending the post after marking the front, removing, bending, and reinserting
I've tried options 3 and 4 with no luck.
Nudging doesn't help as it it sets off the tilt warning the way I prefer it as you really have to push it to get any movement, it just rests in that skirt/post cradle
Any other thoughts or ideas? [quoted image]

Strategically placed piece of drop dead ball foam

CB2169B5-D205-42F1-91E9-DA1BD11DABC2 (resized).jpeg
#8605 9 months ago

Question. I am on code 1.21.

I’ve found that sometimes when I hit the ball in the scoop when a song is ready, It just fires it back out at me before I even decide if I want to play the song or switch to a different one.

Is this typical or could I have a switch issue?

#8606 9 months ago

As Skb did i had done that already and was just seeing how many games before it would come off. but with the standard sticky on the Dead foam rubber it held up . and no more stuck balls . Mine is pretty damn close to the same spot as his .
mine over hangs a bit more but i have no sticky on the parts off the bumper and you do not see it when you play . Easy fix

Not sure about your switch prob. But if song was ready and you start a Small multiball like Pyro,The Lights Crowd or Amps it will not let you pick song and even if lit will shoot it out and not start song .

20210424_150127 (resized).jpg20210424_150948 (resized).jpg

#8607 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Yep, the JJP protector really had me puzzled when I saw it. knew that was the first thing I would need to change

A small ego-centric faction within JJP keeps thinking they somehow can out-Cliffy Cliff. Pat's Dialed-In attempt at it was EMBARRASSING before they finally gave up and just did a real cliffy. No idea why they keep trying to re-invent the wheel. Dumbest re-run ever.

#8608 9 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Question. I am on code 1.21.
I’ve found that sometimes when I hit the ball in the scoop when a song is ready, It just fires it back out at me before I even decide if I want to play the song or switch to a different one.
Is this typical or could I have a switch issue?

Sounds like the KISS scoop-type switch issue. It was FAMOUS for this when the switch got sloppy. The switch is momentarily registering instead of staying on when the ball goes in. That causes a kickout instead of a song start.

11
#8609 9 months ago

We got ours this week.
Big thanks to Joe at PinballSTAR
I stayed up till 4AM the first night playing it.
I kept telling myself “one more game” and then looked my phone and saw what time it was.

I intentionally haven’t followed this thread since the day I placed my order because I wanted everything to be fresh and new when the pin arrived.
Guess now that I’m acquainted with I have some reading to do to get caught up.

Last photo is me in a trance lol

F5DA1199-5D64-422B-86B6-742BFF0C3B31 (resized).jpeg07B9AF4F-2FC8-466C-951E-7D8A7582DDE7 (resized).jpegF904E0B4-05CA-4566-83A0-DAA363C164E4 (resized).jpeg
#8610 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Sounds like the KISS scoop-type switch issue. It was FAMOUS for this when the switch got sloppy. The switch is momentarily registering instead of staying on when the ball goes in. That causes a kickout instead of a song start.

Any fix for this?

#8611 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I thought so at first too, but looking at it from above, that looks like it will only make the cradle it sits in worse. I will try it though to rule that out

I think it makes it more apt to roll to the bumper vs sit in a neutral area. Report back if it works for you too.

#8612 9 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

That's happened to me with LEs at 2 different locations. To avoid tilting I have to wait for the ball search. During a song that is a disappointment. When I get mine I may try a larger rubber ring on the post or a fat sleeve.

Happened to me too ...exact same.. LE on location ... it was maybe my 12th game ever played (at $2 per game!)
so I really wasn't sure what was going on.
Ball search kicked it out. I forgot about this until it was just mentioned.

Sounds like a problem with a forthcoming solution.

#8613 9 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Any fix for this?

If it's like KISS, you just have to bend the switch arm up a bit so it doesn't bounce when the ball comes in and stays engaged.

#8614 9 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I think it makes it more apt to roll to the bumper vs sit in a neutral area. Report back if it works for you too.

Edited:

Back to the drawing board, starting to hang again - using foam piece for now which is working and won't let me place the ball

IT WORKS!!!! Thank you much. Just put a bunch of games on it...Not 1 stuck ball in that area and it had plenty of opportunity. Man you saved the day...I owe you a virtual beer.

Big plus is the mylar can't be seen, isn't going anywhere and no unsightly foam on the skirt.

This fix should be under the key posts until/if JJP makes a workaround...if not, I'm satisfied so far

#8615 9 months ago

Is there another source for the Symbol decals other then Pingraffix?
I was going to purchase a set then found out they charge the flat $8.75 shipping on these.
Maybe it is just me, but it bothers me knowing they can be sent for a postage stamp.
I looked for other things to put in the cart with them but could not find any other items I wanted.

#8616 9 months ago

Unsightly//lol / I dunno , rather have the foam then have to unstick mylar off the playfield any day IMHO
Anyway glad it can be fixed w/o ordering or sending anything .
I also made my own Deflector with some extra plastic protectors for sttng for the Airballs left side which all you need is a big enough piece of plastic some heat and you are done

20210424_161854 (resized).jpg20210424_161910 (resized).jpg20210424_161929 (resized).jpg
#8617 9 months ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Is there another source for the Symbol decals other then Pingraffix?
I was going to purchase a set then found out they charge the flat $8.75 shipping on these.
Maybe it is just me, but it bothers me knowing they can be sent for a postage stamp.
I looked for other things to put in the cart with them but could not find any other items I wanted.

If you want to DIY it, you can get some inkjet vinyl cling paper and just print them yourself. If you have a cricut or a cameo4 you can make a perfect circle cut, but even without it, you should be able to get reasonable results.

But even with shipping, ~$16 shipped for two isn't TERRIBLE. You'll probably waste more than $16 of time tracking down the materials to make your own.

#8618 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If it's like KISS, you just have to bend the switch arm up a bit so it doesn't bounce when the ball comes in and stays engaged.

Well I did a switch test and the switch appears to work as it should. Stays engaged. Not sure what is wrong.

Also, do band members get spotted at the star of each ball automatically? For instance, I drain right away without spotting a member, on ball 2 Axl is lit steady. I drain out without hitting anything. On ball 3 Axl, slash, and bass is lit steady?

Is this right?

Any other ideas for the scoop issue is appreciated. Maybe I have a cold solder joint

#8619 9 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Also, do band members get spotted at the star of each ball automatically? For instance, I drain right away without spotting a member, on ball 2 Axl is lit steady. I drain out without hitting anything. On ball 3 Axl, slash, and bass is lit steady?
Is this right?

I believe so, similar to how POTC would spot shots for the At Worlds End mode with each ball. It's a nerf to help newbies get to *something* by ball 3.

#8620 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I believe so, similar to how POTC would spot shots for the At Worlds End mode with each ball. It's a nerf to help newbies get to *something* by ball 3.

That’s what I figured. Just trying to rule out switch issues. And just so I am correct, when the song is ready and I shoot the scoop, the ball should not come firing out right away? Like it should stay in there for at least the countdown to either choose a new song or start the one that is displayed.

#8621 9 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Well I did a switch test and the switch appears to work as it should. Stays engaged. Not sure what is wrong.

Did you test it with a ball or your finger? Has to be the ball. The disengage/re-engage will be very fast. Also, is the switch body firmly screwed in? If not, it can shift a little when the ball comes in and cause an issue.

Another thing to check is if you have another switch registering nearby from vibration that's cancelling the scoop. Set switch test mode and smack the playfield firmly with the palm of your hand a few times all over the playfield and see if any switches trigger. If they do, adjust that switch to be less sensitive.

#8622 9 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

That’s what I figured. Just trying to rule out switch issues. And just so I am correct, when the song is ready and I shoot the scoop, the ball should not come firing out right away? Like it should stay in there for at least the countdown to either choose a new song or start the one that is displayed.

Mine started doing that last week. My tech mate adjusted the switch but it's started doing it again niow.
Shoots a ball out while you are still choosing a song half the time.

#8623 9 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

That’s what I figured. Just trying to rule out switch issues. And just so I am correct, when the song is ready and I shoot the scoop, the ball should not come firing out right away? Like it should stay in there for at least the countdown to either choose a new song or start the one that is displayed.

Yes:
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/991562984?t=01h03m13s

#8624 9 months ago

Does anyone make molded characters for the stage on the standard version? I was hoping to find something to replace the 2 plastic characters

#8625 9 months ago
Quoted from PinFever:

Unsightly//lol / I dunno , rather have the foam then have to unstick mylar off the playfield any day IMHO
Anyway glad it can be fixed w/o ordering or sending anything .
I also made my own Deflector with some extra plastic protectors for sttng for the Airballs left side which all you need is a big enough piece of plastic some heat and you are done
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Sorry, wasn't picking on your solution specifically. I'm glad it works

The mylar sheet I got from PB Life is really easy to remove, I guess it's not the same stuff as the "permanent" stuff they stick on the playfields...no residue left and comes off easy, almost like a vinyl overlay

#8626 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If you want to DIY it, you can get some inkjet vinyl cling paper and just print them yourself. If you have a cricut or a cameo4 you can make a perfect circle cut, but even without it, you should be able to get reasonable results.
But even with shipping, ~$16 shipped for two isn't TERRIBLE. You'll probably waste more than $16 of time tracking down the materials to make your own.

Thanks.
No it is not the end of the world or anything.
Just thought I would ask here before biting the bullet and way over pay for shipping.

#8627 9 months ago

Anyone having issues with the decals on the side of the machine coming off or wrinkling? The decal on my right side is starting to wrinkle near the flipper button, which sucks

5CFD8635-46F2-49EB-AB57-0BD4EA1217CF (resized).jpeg
#8628 9 months ago
Quoted from punkin:

Mine started doing that last week. My tech mate adjusted the switch but it's started doing it again niow.
Shoots a ball out while you are still choosing a song half the time.

Thanks. Sounds like I need to fiddle with it

#8629 9 months ago

did not take it as such and Skb and Zaphx did it before me with a cabinet nub . I just did not think it unsightly due to not seeing it where it sits while i play and was not a big deal . That is all. Glad the Mylar vinyl worked / Seems very easy to do to

Quoted from fooflighter:

Sorry, wasn't picking on your solution specifically. I'm glad it works
The mylar sheet I got from PB Life is really easy to remove, I guess it's not the same stuff as the "permanent" stuff they stick on the playfields...no residue left and comes off easy, almost like a vinyl overlay

#8630 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I believe so, similar to how POTC would spot shots for the At Worlds End mode with each ball. It's a nerf to help newbies get to *something* by ball 3.

I think their goal was to have a song ready to start on ball 3 for everyone.

#8631 9 months ago
Quoted from Coindork:

Guess now that I’m acquainted with I have some reading to do to get caught up.

Guess we will be seeing your next post in a week or so. Thats alot of catching up to do.

#8632 9 months ago
Quoted from PinFever:

did not take it as such and Skb and Zaphx did it before me with a cabinet nub . I just did not think it unsightly due to not seeing it where it sits while i play and was not a big deal . That is all. Glad the Mylar vinyl worked / Seems very easy to do to

Maybe I'm missing something. For this solution, the mylar is laying flat on the playfield? How is that preventing the ball from getting stuck between the bumper and the post?

#8633 9 months ago

was not me. Seems that extra 1/16th of an inch does something.. I put the Unsightly foam

Quoted from rrosenhouse:Maybe I'm missing something. For this solution, the mylar is laying flat on the playfield? How is that preventing the ball from getting stuck between the bumper and the post?

#8634 9 months ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

Maybe I'm missing something. For this solution, the mylar is laying flat on the playfield? How is that preventing the ball from getting stuck between the bumper and the post?

I don't know, but since I put it there it hasn't stuck...weird YMMV

Got the suggestion from this post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/173#post-6244802

#8635 9 months ago

is that a protective wrap on the actual decal?

Quoted from lpgnr:Anyone having issues with the decals on the side of the machine coming off or wrinkling? The decal on my right side is starting to wrinkle near the flipper button, which sucks
[quoted image]

#8636 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Cliffy scoop protector requires a bit of trimming to get fit properly in order to avoid the upright ball coil locks... Maybe they have a new cut on the play field I'm not sure but there was definite metal on metal rubbing I just used the Dremel and a light touch marked what I needed to cut both pieces needed filing...

I have since fixed this in my drawings and all scoop protectors shipping out since the past 2 weeks are fixed. Thanks to all who brought it to my attention!

#8637 9 months ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

Hey screaminr - we have detailed instructions that we share before your system is delivered. We also have many, many systems out there and you likely won't have a problem during install, but if you do, we offer tech support. (I've talked to a bunch of you guys, even in Australia!)

No one beats the customer service from Dan and the PinWoof team. Heck he is already giving me a hard time making sure that i follow the instructions properly for GNR and i do not even have the game yet - was originally may/june timeframe but i am thinking october/november

#8638 9 months ago
Quoted from PinFever:

is that a protective wrap on the actual decal?

No The decal itself is coming unstuck on the right side, all over the place, but primarily near the flipper button. I guess I am the only lucky person this is happening to.

#8639 9 months ago
Quoted from lpgnr:

No The decal itself is coming unstuck on the right side, all over the place, but primarily near the flipper button. I guess I am the only lucky person this is happening to.

I had this happen, granted it wasn't as dramatic as yours looks but here's what I did:

I'm calling this the Guitar Pick Fix

1. Lift the playfield fully

2. Unscrew the nut retainer screw for the flipper button

3. Using a pair of needlenose, unscrew the nut holding the flipper button and keep it from rotating in your hand

4. Using a hairdryer, apply moderate heat for a couple minutes at about 8 to 10 inches, not too hot, still able to touch the decal without burning your finger...we only want to soften things up to make them pliable.

5. Now using a Guitar Pick (I just happen to have my favorite 1.14mm dunlop lying nearby - and it is just the right abount of stiffness while allowing some flex to apply pressure) - using the FLAT part of the Pic (or any hard plastic with a little flex ) DO NOT USE THE EDGE, you don't want to scrape or tear things ...press and move the bubble towards the hole, working slowly and applying smooth steady pressure...don't rub back and forth or DIG IN with the pic, we're trying to move the wrinkle to the hole.

6. Apply more heat as needed and keep working it...allow it to cool and check your work...reapply heat and pressure if necessary

7. Re-insert flipper button and hold it firm while you reattach the nut. You don't want any rotation or twisting motion on the button, it doesn't have to be super tight, only snug

8. Rescrew in nut retainer screw, not too tight, don't strip the wood

9. After, apply a thin coat of Carnuba (Blitz) wax to the area, let dry and lightly wipe clear.

Hope this helps.

I don't have a before pic as I was too excited when my game arrived but, this was one of the first things I did...here is the after pic for what it's worth...Not 100% perfect but pretty close.
20210424_172903~2 (resized).jpg20210424_173215~2 (resized).jpg20210424_175901 (resized).jpg

#8640 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

IT WORKS!!!! Thank you much. Just put a bunch of games on it...Not 1 stuck ball in that area and it had plenty of opportunity. Man you saved the day...I owe you a virtual beer.
Big plus is the mylar can't be seen, isn't going anywhere and no unsightly foam on the skirt.
This fix should be under the key posts until/if JJP makes a workaround...if not, I'm satisfied so far

Excellent! Glad it works for others and I didn't just get lucky. Yes might be worth making a key post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/173#post-6244802

#8641 9 months ago
Quoted from lpgnr:

Anyone having issues with the decals on the side of the machine coming off or wrinkling? The decal on my right side is starting to wrinkle near the flipper button, which sucks
[quoted image]

My cabinet artwork arrived wrinkled around the flipper button as well (left side). I'm not trying to get into the decal application hobby/business, but JJP sent me the decal replacement for that side. Props to fooflighter for suggesting a heat source. I didn't think to get it hot first, so I will give it another try.

#8642 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I had this happen, granted it wasn't as dramatic as yours looks but here's what I did:
I'm calling this the Guitar Pick Fix
1. Lift the playfield fully
2. Unscrew the nut retainer screw for the flipper button
3. Using a pair of needlenose, unscrew the nut holding the flipper button and keep it from rotating in your hand
4. Using a hairdryer, apply moderate heat for a couple minutes at about 8 to 10 inches, not too hot, still able to touch the decal without burning your finger...we only want to soften things up to make them pliable.
5. Now using a Guitar Pick (I just happen to have my favorite 1.14mm dunlop lying nearby - and it is just the right abount of stiffness while allowing some flex to apply pressure) - using the FLAT part of the Pic (or any hard plastic with a little flex ) DO NOT USE THE EDGE, you don't want to scrape or tear things ...press and move the bubble towards the hole, working slowly and applying smooth steady pressure...don't rub back and forth or DIG IN with the pic, we're trying to move the wrinkle to the hole.
6. Apply more heat as needed and keep working it...allow it to cool and check your work...reapply heat and pressure if necessary
7. Re-insert flipper button and hold it firm while you reattach the nut. You don't want any rotation or twisting motion on the button, it doesn't have to be super tight, only snug
8. Rescrew in nut retainer screw, not too tight, don't strip the wood
9. After, apply a thin coat of Carnuba (Blitz) wax to the area, let dry and lightly wipe clear.
Hope this helps.
I don't have a before pic as I was too excited when my game arrived but, this was one of the first things I did...here is the after pic for what it's worth...Not 100% perfect but pretty close.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you VERY much! You happen to use my favorite guitar pick as well, so this solution is right up my alley I really appreciate the time you took to write up this answer. Now I have a project to work on. Glad there is a solution here!

Thanks again!

#8643 9 months ago
Quoted from lpgnr:

Thank you VERY much! You happen to use my favorite guitar pick as well, so this solution is right up my alley I really appreciate the time you took to write up this answer. Now I have a project to work on. Glad there is a solution here!
Thanks again!

Hope it helps you out! I'm chalking this up to the little problems of NIB ownership, I hope my solution works for you

#8644 9 months ago

Well, I knew this was coming...157 games in on my LE ...add me to the list of broken Spotlight servo arms . My right one broke stopping up/down movement - probably just a matter of time before the left breaks as well..

Sent a notice to my distro so hoping this gets solved...Those ligths are just so awesome when they are working

20210424_200318 (resized).jpg
#8645 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Well, I knew this was coming...157 games in on my LE ...add me to the list of broken Spotlight servo arms . My right one broke stopping up/down movement - probably just a matter of time before the left breaks as well..
Sent a notice to my distro so hoping this gets solved...Those ligths are just so awesome when they are working[quoted image]

Ugh that sucks. For those that have gotten replacements, are these an easy swap out?

#8646 9 months ago

Mattyk... This was recently brought to my attention by our artist JP... After he sent a video, it looked like it was being caused by the left tramp diverter timing out and disengaging. The force of the diverter was enough to bounce the scoop switch which caused the ball to kick out. I've since added a software fix that is in beta now and will be in next release, but in the meantime do as pinmonk says and bend up the scoop arm a very little bit. This fixed it for JP.

You can test this theory by going into switch test with door open and power off, putting a ball in the scoop, then manually push down and release the left tramp diverter, and notice if switch test says the scoop switch moved.

#8647 9 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Ugh that sucks. For those that have gotten replacements, are these an easy swap out?

It should be easy - the wiring is all plug and play.

The left spot comes out with 2 nuts on the upper playfield plastic.
The right one you have to remove the black metal shield on the back first (5 or 6 screws) then 2 nuts to remove it.

#8648 9 months ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Mattyk... This was recently brought to my attention by our artist JP... After he sent a video, it looked like it was being caused by the left tramp diverter timing out and disengaging. The force of the diverter was enough to bounce the scoop switch which caused the ball to kick out. I've since added a software fix that is in beta now and will be in next release, but in the meantime do as pinmonk says and bend up the scoop arm a very little bit. This fixed it for JP.
You can test this theory by going into switch test with door open and power off, putting a ball in the scoop, then manually push down and release the left tramp diverter, and notice if switch test says the scoop switch moved.

I appreciate the help. I will test this theory. I have since tried to bend the scoop switch a bit. When I turned the game back on a switch report came back and said that my upper playfield switch at the rubber ring (#38 I think) was closed. I adjusted it. Since then I have not had the scoop eject issue. Fingers are crossed. Maybe PinMonk was right about a switch being too sensitive causing just issue. We’ll see tomorrow.

Thanks so much for looking into this

Matt

#8649 9 months ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Mattyk... This was recently brought to my attention by our artist JP... After he sent a video, it looked like it was being caused by the left tramp diverter timing out and disengaging. The force of the diverter was enough to bounce the scoop switch which caused the ball to kick out. I've since added a software fix that is in beta now and will be in next release, but in the meantime do as pinmonk says and bend up the scoop arm a very little bit. This fixed it for JP.
You can test this theory by going into switch test with door open and power off, putting a ball in the scoop, then manually push down and release the left tramp diverter, and notice if switch test says the scoop switch moved.

I’ll also point out that on one occasion I tried to quickly hit the action button, before the ball ejected from the scoop, to change the song and the game reset. It has only done this once. Code 1.21

#8650 9 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

I appreciate the help. I will test this theory. I have since tried to bend the scoop switch a bit. When I turned the game back on a switch report came back and said that my upper playfield switch at the rubber ring (#38 I think) was closed. I adjusted it. Since then I have not had the scoop eject issue. Fingers are crossed. Maybe PinMonk was right about a switch being too sensitive causing just issue. We’ll see tomorrow.
Thanks so much for looking into this
Matt

jjPotC had this issue where if a GOLD target switch was too tight on the lower playfield and triggered from vibration when the ball was up on the Black Pearl, the gate wouldn't open to get to the cannon because it thought the ball was down below. It's a pretty common thing to happen (especially as pins get more complicated), but when there's a problem with, say, your scoop, you don't think, "hey, maybe this other unrelated switch over there is causing the problem."

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