Quoted from allsportdvd:

Have you tried Kurt at KJS Pinball in Brisbane?

Quoted from mbrave77:

Next question is wifi. My game wont find any wifi networks when there should be like 5 available. anything special to do?

Quoted from Mattyk:

Question. I am on code 1.21.
I’ve found that sometimes when I hit the ball in the scoop when a song is ready, It just fires it back out at me before I even decide if I want to play the song or switch to a different one.
Is this typical or could I have a switch issue?

Quoted from Mattyk:

Did you agree to the terms and conditions?

Quoted from Straight2VHS:

About 2 weeks in my my machine and so far two issues to report. Anyone seen issues with the record spinner either cracking around the post or laminate separating? I'm not sure which, but there is something going on there.
2nd issue, I've been having issues with shots going towards the left outer orbit popping up then over into the coma outlane then draining. It looks like there is already a round clear disk mounted there to prevent this but the disk isn't large enough.
[quoted image]

Quoted from fooflighter:

Minor NIB issues that I've had in 3 days on my LE: (this isn't to bag on JJP but merely to point out things to look for for new owners)
This is my first JJP and despite these little issues listed below (which I wish weren't present on an $11k machine) it's still a beauty, rock solid and plays amazing. I am just now getting past the shock phase of the new pin and getting into the rules etc...now that most of the issues are worked out...it's really opening up and becoming a blast to play.
Look out for these gotchas
1. 150 games in..Spotlight on right servo arm broke - and will not go up/down...3 games later spotlight on left will not test properly and is intermittent up down and makes grinding noises
2. Coil stop flew off left flipper assembly, landed in coinbox while playing - fixed - just needed to be reattached and tightened - 2 others were loose upone inspection
3. Pawl bolt right flipper snapped on it's own in first 5 games - replaced myself
4. Both Drumsticks mylar came off on bottom, interfered with one way gate assembly near right orbit and pops, had to remove and re - mylar - looks perfect again
5. Wrinkling around left flipper button - fixed myself with hairdryer and guitar pick to smooth, looks 100% again thankfully
6. Replaced all rubber with Titans as 4 of them were split already without a ball being played
7. Sticker on record lifting around bumber post - living with it for now....may ask JJP for a new sticker if it gets worse but so far it looks like it's not spreading and doesn't affect play
8. Pop bumper bottom position has design flaw where ball comes to rest on skirt and bumper. Fixed with foam piece on skirt, hidden from view while playing so not a huge deal, but I hope they address it or design a new skirt
9. W wire gate on left ramp came off a couple times, a simple pressure on the right vertical support bracket towards the ramp stopped that - 2 second fix
10. Backglass rattling in backbox, fixed with a small piece of weather stripping on back of glass frame
Now I don't expect perfection as pinball has always been a play and repair hobby in my opinion. However, in most of my issues above, either just a little more QC or better parts would have made all the difference.
I had similar issues with both my Sterns (Star Wars had the outlane rollovers reversed - my first pin, had to rewire that, also had major shorting issue from debris in GI sockets...JP had the Dinosaur jaw fall off, broken newton ball, poorly aligned shooter lane return, digging in guiderails, broken coilstops, so again, it's pinball...This stuff is actually fun an the process of figuring out broken things and repairs is something I honestly enjoy and with each new issue you learn something new.
But to answer your questions
Yep, have the 1st issue, it's just a sticker, you can get another from JJP
2nd issue, yes there are mods in the works, the CE thread has people making deflectors and I think PinMonk may start making them
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Quoted from fooflighter:

Okay, another item on the glitch list...
My right orbit has sucked out of the box, constant hangups and weird flow into the pops...well today I noticed there is a one way gate there but it was stuck open...lifting theplayfield to unjam it, I noticed that the protective clear shielding on my drumsticks is peeling away and the hanging adhesive is binding the gate hinge and locking it in the up position...
Ugh...I know NIB headaches but this is getting ridiculous...Last night, my left flipper coil stop completely flew off and landed in my coinbox, luckily nothing broke but I'm scared to play it now, feels like I'm finding a new issue every day
I know thats nott the case but just feels that was...okay done venting
So I'm, torn, remove the drumsticks myself and put a couple dabs of glue down to hold the lamination in place or contact distro for new drumsticks
[quoted image]

Quoted from Guinnesstime:

That sucks. Hope it all gets worked out. They might have to up their hourly wage. I'm told that landscape workers in my area make $20/hr.[quoted image]

Quoted from screaminr:

Mate you're doing a great job documenting everything and I'm learning a lot to look out for from your issues .
I've every post in this thread and it's the first time I've heard about the Milar coming off the drumsticks . It sucks to have these problems but you seem as though you're taking them in your stride .

Quoted from PanzerFreak:

For some of these quality issues being reported I would hammer on JJP to replace the parts. Small wrinkle in decal? Send a new set. Mylar coming off drum sticks? Send a new set. Decal wrinkling at spinning record? Send a new decal. A broken server arm should be an automatic replacement. These games are already insanely priced at $9500 for an LE, let alone $10,500. If JJP and Stern want to charge top prices (not to mention raise the price by $1k) then they need to be held accountable for top quality.
For major issues such as larger cabinet, decal, and playfield chipping / pooling issues I would want my distributor to fight for a game replacement. No excuses for those issues at these prices.

Quoted from fooflighter:

I'm picking my battles though...I would love it to be perfect and only mechanical wear isssues over time but the past 3 years has shown me that A. That utopia doesn't exist in NIB pinball or B. That my OCD, Type A is so bad that nothing is ever perfect and I will always find something. I'm thinging A & B
My distro and JJP have been amazing during this. I'm already in the order que for 2 new light assemblies. My cabinet wrinkle around the button is gone, looks perfect now...the issue with something like that is the process of either sending back the cab (major PITA), having a tech come out to fix - may or may not and time involved..when I literally took 15 minutes, learned a new method and fixed it. I know there are those that will still say BS, demand them to fix it but I'm saving my warranty calls for the big stuff. I'm keeping an eye on the record, so far I don't notice it much and will most likely hit the distro up for a replacement at some point. I don't want to be labelled as (oh gawd, another email from that guy) type of customer either
If it's something I can fix and make it look just as good or better than factory, I'll tackle it...I'm kind of a (if you want something done right - kind of person)
If it's something that goes beyond my scope, then most definitely I push for warranty.

Quoted from PinballGalore:

Quick question. Where in the menu can I handle the shaker motor? Might want to turn it off at nights since I’m in an apartment building. Haven’t been able to find it on the system menus.

Quoted from fooflighter:

Yes, it's a wrap around the stick, the seam is on the bottom of the stick where there is about a 5cm overlap .
Since I'm in Houston and it's relatively humid and around 55% in our house usually versus Chicago..I'm guessing that and time have just allowed the adhesive to lose it's bond...The mylar is pretty thick stuff too and has some spring to it, probably necessary for the ramp. The mylar I wrapped around the bottom was about a quarter to half of the circumference of the stick, enough to cover the seam on both sides and prevent it from lifting.
I would never have noticed it had it not been for the gate hanging...
Now I'm shooting that right orbit and it is SMOOTH

Quoted from Straight2VHS:

2nd issue, I've been having issues with shots going towards the left outer orbit popping up then over into the coma outlane then draining. It looks like there is already a round clear disk mounted there to prevent this but the disk isn't large enough

Quoted from zaphX:

My fix for the mylar was pretty simple. "Huh, that looks like it's coming off" (applied pressure with fingers to stick it back down).

Quoted from fooflighter:

Here's my repair on my sticks for those who want to try self repair versus going the distro JJP route...
I would contact your distro first to make sure you can still be covered for replacement should you screw this up, it's not hard but takes a little patience
So the mylar used is pretty thick, the stuff i used is the sheets i ordered off pinball life. I didn't want to peel off the factory mylar at risk of messing up the Vater graphics..and I felt overall it was a nice look except for the adhesive. I cut about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide strip the length between the bracket near the tip bracket and the end of the mylar near the handgrips after the control bracket is removed (more on that below) securing the bottoms of the drumsticks. I attached my strip of mylar lengthwise about 1/4 inch to the side of the seam (basically making a flap extension of what was peeling) and once in place rolled it over the drumstick working slowly to keep the seal tight secured it on the other side...then just press it down using a microfiber towel to seal it completely.
To remove sticks:
1. lift playfield to 2nd or 3rd position
2. unscrew two small screws near the optic control board and then the 1 small screw near the tip of the sticks - the dumsticks are now free except for the plug
3. there is one plug that connects the control board to the stick assembly, unplug that and remove the plastic ball guard and set aside
4. Next, I removed the control board bracket so that my mylar would also be held in place by it post fix
5. perform mylar application above
6. make sure when screwing and unscrewing you use the correct size phillips head as you don't want to strrip the screw. Drumsticks are hard wood and it requires downward and steady pressure to not strip the head of the screw - use the correct tool for the job - you'll have to poke two small holes in the mylar you just installed to reinsert the screws
7. plug back in bracket, reattach sticks lining up holes and plastic shield
8. test sticks in place after lowering playfield
Done!
Here's before and after again for those who don't want to scroll back in this thread
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from mbrave77:

thanks for the long explanation. Makes me feel better about doing this. I got Stranger Things LE and GnR LE within 24 hours of eachother and they both need little fixes that make me a bit un easy!

Quoted from fooflighter:

Here's my repair on my sticks for those who want to try self repair versus going the distro JJP route...
I would contact your distro first to make sure you can still be covered for replacement should you screw this up, it's not hard but takes a little patience
So the mylar used is pretty thick, the stuff i used is the sheets i ordered off pinball life. I didn't want to peel off the factory mylar at risk of messing up the Vater graphics..and I felt overall it was a nice look except for the adhesive. I cut about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide strip the length between the bracket near the tip bracket and the end of the mylar near the handgrips after the control bracket is removed (more on that below) securing the bottoms of the drumsticks. I attached my strip of mylar lengthwise about 1/4 inch to the side of the seam (basically making a flap extension of what was peeling) and once in place rolled it over the drumstick working slowly to keep the seal tight secured it on the other side...then just press it down using a microfiber towel to seal it completely.
To remove sticks:
1. lift playfield to 2nd or 3rd position
2. unscrew two small screws near the control board and then the 1 small screw near the tip of the sticks - the dumsticks are now free except for the plug
3. there is one plug that connects the control board to the stick assembly, unplug that and remove the plastic ball guard and set aside
4. Next, I removed the control board bracket so that my mylar would also be held in place by it post fix
5. perform mylar application above
6. make sure when screwing and unscrewing you use the correct size phillips head as you don't want to strip the screw. Drumsticks are hard wood and it requires downward and steady pressure to not strip the head of the screw - use the correct tool for the job - you'll have to poke two small holes in the mylar you just installed to reinsert the screws
7. plug back in bracket, reattach sticks lining up holes and plastic shield
8. test sticks in place after lowering playfield
Done!
Here's before and after again for those who don't want to scroll back in this thread
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Eskaybee:

This is awesome. Can we get this post keyed?

Quoted from highdef:

Coming soon from PinMonk
[quoted image]

Quoted from PinMonk:

Done. I put it under the playfield section of the tech posts. If you sort by keypost summary it puts them all together for easy browsing.

Quoted from pinballj:

Dude, I completely appreciate this! Still waiting on delivery, but if you can just keep starting the owners thread for anything I may buy, and organize the posts, I would appreciate it haha!

Quoted from PinMonk:

Um, that's a freaking 33dBA fan. Pinmonk would never sell something that obnoxiously loud.
Unfortunately, I also do not understand the joke. Replacement for broken spotlight servos? I don't get it.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Waiting on delivery of what? It was a repair keypost.
I suddenly feel like I've been daydrinking. Two posts in a row I don't get.

Quoted from highdef:

Forget it. You took it way too literal. I did install one of your fans on TNA, so thank you.

Quoted from mbrave77:

Whats the best way to get up the left ramp all the way? I dont feel like the backhand will get it up there often, and coming from the right flipper its very dangerous. I just had my first real good game 5.8m and 3 of my drains were trying to go up that left ramp.... I am plus 1 on each of my bottom flippers.
thanks!

Quoted from mbrave77:

foofighters instructions were spot on. Sticks were a bit hard to get back in and had to move some things to place to get sticks back in but it all worked. 100% operational now.</blockqu

Whats the best way to get up the left ramp all the way? I dont feel like the backhand will get it up there often, and coming from the right flipper its very dangerous. I just had my first real good game 5.8m and 3 of my drains were trying to go up that left ramp.... I am plus 1 on each of my bottom flippers.
thanks!

Quoted from fooflighter:

I'm in the same boat. The Appetite stand up is deadly. I watched a little of IE pinballs stream and he was going up with the right flipper...he did note that he lowered his flippers slightly from factory (flopped)...similar to Jurassic Park I'm assuming for making those side shots easier...I'm just gonna keep practicing but there is a definite narrow window of opportunity on that right flipper to not hit the dreaded Appetite standup and drain immediately versus going successfully up the ramp. I try to backhand it like the Death Star Ramp but it's really tough to time it perfect, you can do it if you hit it on the roll or a fast slap save...
It's a good challenge. I remember when the helicopter shot on JP was was nemesis..now I can hit that shot all day
I'd say the 3 hardest shots on GnR are : 1. Under the flipper - crowd 2. Left Ramp without draining 3. Left and right orbits when your panic flipping during a song

Quoted from bsrhardy:

Anyone getting a ball stuck under the left orbit? Can't see where it is getting stuck and if I remove the upper playfield, I probably will not be able to reproduce it.
We were getting a ball stuck, coming out of the pops, the gate was sticking on the drumstick wrapping and causing a bind. i removed the drumsticks and shaved with a razor some of the wrapping that had come loose.
Thoughts on the left orbit??

Quoted from lpgnr:

I got a switch test result with 3 bad switches,

Quoted from lpgnr:

I got a switch test result with 3 bad switches, but I can’t find them. Could someone please help me out or point me in the right direction? Thank you
[quoted image]

Quoted from LTG:

They are on the flipper mechs.

Quoted from LTG:

Circled in yellow in this picture.
LTG : )
[quoted image]

Quoted from lpgnr:

It sucks not knowing anything about pinball machines and owning one . . .

Quoted from lpgnr:

Thanks for the fast response. This is beyond my knowledge at this point. It sucks not knowing anything about pinball machines and owning one . . .

Quoted from LTG:

Only thing I ask is after you learn. In the future pass on what you know to help others. That my friend makes pinball great.
LTG : )