(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

1 year ago


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“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 181 votes
    19%
  • LE 515 votes
    53%
  • SE 65 votes
    7%
  • None 208 votes
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#8701 7 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Have you tried Kurt at KJS Pinball in Brisbane?

Yep , all roads seem to be leading to KJS.

#8702 7 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Next question is wifi. My game wont find any wifi networks when there should be like 5 available. anything special to do?

Did you agree to the terms and conditions?

#8703 7 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Question. I am on code 1.21.
I’ve found that sometimes when I hit the ball in the scoop when a song is ready, It just fires it back out at me before I even decide if I want to play the song or switch to a different one.
Is this typical or could I have a switch issue?

I am gonna call this issue resolved. Seems like my issue was either an upper playfield switch being too sensitive and registering when it shouldn’t, or just a tweak needed on the scoop switch so when the left ramp diverter resets it does not cause a vibration to the scoop switch, resulting in premature ejectultion

#8704 7 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Did you agree to the terms and conditions?

Yes

#8705 7 months ago

Need to stop ordering mods for this game, don't even have it yet lol (waiting on LE to ship). Mezel Mod ramp signs, Art of Pinball action button mod + shooter rod, and Pinwoofer super kit ordered.

#8706 7 months ago

About 2 weeks in my my machine and so far two issues to report. Anyone seen issues with the record spinner either cracking around the post or laminate separating? I'm not sure which, but there is something going on there.

2nd issue, I've been having issues with shots going towards the left outer orbit popping up then over into the coma outlane then draining. It looks like there is already a round clear disk mounted there to prevent this but the disk isn't large enough.

disc (resized).jpeg
11
#8707 7 months ago
Quoted from Straight2VHS:

About 2 weeks in my my machine and so far two issues to report. Anyone seen issues with the record spinner either cracking around the post or laminate separating? I'm not sure which, but there is something going on there.
2nd issue, I've been having issues with shots going towards the left outer orbit popping up then over into the coma outlane then draining. It looks like there is already a round clear disk mounted there to prevent this but the disk isn't large enough.
[quoted image]

Minor NIB issues that I've had in 3 days on my LE: (this isn't to bag on JJP but merely to point out things to look for for new owners)

This is my first JJP and despite these little issues listed below (which I wish weren't present on an $11k machine) it's still a beauty, rock solid and plays amazing. I am just now getting past the shock phase of the new pin and getting into the rules etc...now that most of the issues are worked out...it's really opening up and becoming a blast to play.

Look out for these gotchas

1. 150 games in..Spotlight on right servo arm broke - and will not go up/down...3 games later spotlight on left will not test properly and is intermittent up down and makes grinding noises
2. Coil stop flew off left flipper assembly, landed in coinbox while playing - fixed - just needed to be reattached and tightened - 2 others were loose upone inspection
3. Pawl bolt right flipper snapped on it's own in first 5 games - replaced myself
4. Both Drumsticks mylar came off on bottom, interfered with one way gate assembly near right orbit and pops, had to remove and re - mylar - looks perfect again
5. Wrinkling around left flipper button - fixed myself with hairdryer and guitar pick to smooth, looks 100% again thankfully
6. Replaced all rubber with Titans as 4 of them were split already without a ball being played
7. Sticker on record lifting around bumber post - living with it for now....may ask JJP for a new sticker if it gets worse but so far it looks like it's not spreading and doesn't affect play
8. Pop bumper bottom position has design flaw where ball comes to rest on skirt and bumper. Fixed with foam piece on skirt, hidden from view while playing so not a huge deal, but I hope they address it or design a new skirt
9. W wire gate on left ramp came off a couple times, a simple pressure on the right vertical support bracket towards the ramp stopped that - 2 second fix
10. Backglass rattling in backbox, fixed with a small piece of weather stripping on back of glass frame

Now I don't expect perfection as pinball has always been a play and repair hobby in my opinion. However, in most of my issues above, either just a little more QC or better parts would have made all the difference.

I had similar issues with both my Sterns (Star Wars had the outlane rollovers reversed - my first pin, had to rewire that, also had major shorting issue from debris in GI sockets...JP had the Dinosaur jaw fall off, broken newton ball, poorly aligned shooter lane return, digging in guiderails, broken coilstops, so again, it's pinball...This stuff is actually fun an the process of figuring out broken things and repairs is something I honestly enjoy and with each new issue you learn something new.

But to answer your questions

Yep, have the 1st issue, it's just a sticker, you can get another from JJP

2nd issue, yes there are mods in the works, the CE thread has people making deflectors and I think PinMonk may start making them
20210426_021849 (resized).jpg

#8708 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Minor NIB issues that I've had in 3 days on my LE: (this isn't to bag on JJP but merely to point out things to look for for new owners)
This is my first JJP and despite these little issues listed below (which I wish weren't present on an $11k machine) it's still a beauty, rock solid and plays amazing. I am just now getting past the shock phase of the new pin and getting into the rules etc...now that most of the issues are worked out...it's really opening up and becoming a blast to play.
Look out for these gotchas
1. 150 games in..Spotlight on right servo arm broke - and will not go up/down...3 games later spotlight on left will not test properly and is intermittent up down and makes grinding noises
2. Coil stop flew off left flipper assembly, landed in coinbox while playing - fixed - just needed to be reattached and tightened - 2 others were loose upone inspection
3. Pawl bolt right flipper snapped on it's own in first 5 games - replaced myself
4. Both Drumsticks mylar came off on bottom, interfered with one way gate assembly near right orbit and pops, had to remove and re - mylar - looks perfect again
5. Wrinkling around left flipper button - fixed myself with hairdryer and guitar pick to smooth, looks 100% again thankfully
6. Replaced all rubber with Titans as 4 of them were split already without a ball being played
7. Sticker on record lifting around bumber post - living with it for now....may ask JJP for a new sticker if it gets worse but so far it looks like it's not spreading and doesn't affect play
8. Pop bumper bottom position has design flaw where ball comes to rest on skirt and bumper. Fixed with foam piece on skirt, hidden from view while playing so not a huge deal, but I hope they address it or design a new skirt
9. W wire gate on left ramp came off a couple times, a simple pressure on the right vertical support bracket towards the ramp stopped that - 2 second fix
10. Backglass rattling in backbox, fixed with a small piece of weather stripping on back of glass frame
Now I don't expect perfection as pinball has always been a play and repair hobby in my opinion. However, in most of my issues above, either just a little more QC or better parts would have made all the difference.
I had similar issues with both my Sterns (Star Wars had the outlane rollovers reversed - my first pin, had to rewire that, also had major shorting issue from debris in GI sockets...JP had the Dinosaur jaw fall off, broken newton ball, poorly aligned shooter lane return, digging in guiderails, broken coilstops, so again, it's pinball...This stuff is actually fun an the process of figuring out broken things and repairs is something I honestly enjoy and with each new issue you learn something new.
But to answer your questions
Yep, have the 1st issue, it's just a sticker, you can get another from JJP
2nd issue, yes there are mods in the works, the CE thread has people making deflectors and I think PinMonk may start making them
[quoted image]

Mate you're doing a great job documenting everything and I'm learning a lot to look out for from your issues .
I've every post in this thread and it's the first time I've heard about the Milar coming off the drumsticks . It sucks to have these problems but you seem as though you're taking them in your stride .

#8709 7 months ago

For some of these quality issues being reported I would hammer on JJP to replace the parts. Small wrinkle in decal? Send a new set. Mylar coming off drum sticks? Send a new set. Decal wrinkling at spinning record? Send a new decal. A broken server arm should be an automatic replacement. These games are already insanely priced at $9500 for an LE, let alone $10,500. If JJP and Stern want to charge top prices (not to mention raise the price by $1k) then they need to be held accountable for top quality.

For major issues such as larger cabinet, decal, and playfield chipping / pooling issues I would want my distributor to fight for a game replacement. No excuses for those issues at these prices.

#8710 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Okay, another item on the glitch list...
My right orbit has sucked out of the box, constant hangups and weird flow into the pops...well today I noticed there is a one way gate there but it was stuck open...lifting theplayfield to unjam it, I noticed that the protective clear shielding on my drumsticks is peeling away and the hanging adhesive is binding the gate hinge and locking it in the up position...
Ugh...I know NIB headaches but this is getting ridiculous...Last night, my left flipper coil stop completely flew off and landed in my coinbox, luckily nothing broke but I'm scared to play it now, feels like I'm finding a new issue every day
I know thats nott the case but just feels that was...okay done venting
So I'm, torn, remove the drumsticks myself and put a couple dabs of glue down to hold the lamination in place or contact distro for new drumsticks
[quoted image]

That sucks. Hope it all gets worked out. They might have to up their hourly wage. I'm told that landscape workers in my area make $20/hr.

Screen Shot 2021-04-26 at 10.07.32 AM (resized).png
#8711 7 months ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

That sucks. Hope it all gets worked out. They might have to up their hourly wage. I'm told that landscape workers in my area make $20/hr.[quoted image]

Yeah, wow. For a production line worker at the supposed best manufacturer of pins one would think that the starting wage would be at least $15. Amazon delivery drivers and starting pay at Costco is at least $15 an hour. $13.50 - $14 an hour is $28k - $29k yearly, just a bit over poverty income level in many states.

#8712 7 months ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Mate you're doing a great job documenting everything and I'm learning a lot to look out for from your issues .
I've every post in this thread and it's the first time I've heard about the Milar coming off the drumsticks . It sucks to have these problems but you seem as though you're taking them in your stride .

Thank you much. The one thing I learned a couple years ago when I got into this hobby was there were always people who had some experience more than me who helped me out tremendously and it took the pressure off lifting the playfield and working on things.
I don't have a ton of experience but I do think posting my findings and sometimes process can benefit others and make this hobby more approachable to those just starting out. Sometimes someone will say, yeah that's great, but why don't you do this instead? Awesome, just learned something new!

#8713 7 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

For some of these quality issues being reported I would hammer on JJP to replace the parts. Small wrinkle in decal? Send a new set. Mylar coming off drum sticks? Send a new set. Decal wrinkling at spinning record? Send a new decal. A broken server arm should be an automatic replacement. These games are already insanely priced at $9500 for an LE, let alone $10,500. If JJP and Stern want to charge top prices (not to mention raise the price by $1k) then they need to be held accountable for top quality.
For major issues such as larger cabinet, decal, and playfield chipping / pooling issues I would want my distributor to fight for a game replacement. No excuses for those issues at these prices.

I'm picking my battles though...I would love it to be perfect and only mechanical wear isssues over time but the past 3 years has shown me that A. That utopia doesn't exist in NIB pinball or B. That my OCD, Type A is so bad that nothing is ever perfect and I will always find something. I'm thinking A & B

My distro and JJP have been amazing during this. I'm already in the order que for 2 new light assemblies. My cabinet wrinkle around the button is gone, looks perfect now...the issue with something like that is the process of either sending back the cab (major PITA), having a tech come out to fix - may or may not and time involved..when I literally took 15 minutes, learned a new method and fixed it. I know there are those that will still say BS, demand them to fix it but I'm saving my warranty calls for the big stuff. I'm keeping an eye on the record, so far I don't notice it much and will most likely hit the distro up for a replacement at some point. I don't want to be labelled as (oh gawd, another email from that guy) type of customer either

If it's something I can fix and make it look just as good or better than factory, I'll tackle it...I'm kind of a (if you want something done right - kind of person)

If it's something that goes beyond my scope, then most definitely I push for warranty.

#8714 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I'm picking my battles though...I would love it to be perfect and only mechanical wear isssues over time but the past 3 years has shown me that A. That utopia doesn't exist in NIB pinball or B. That my OCD, Type A is so bad that nothing is ever perfect and I will always find something. I'm thinging A & B
My distro and JJP have been amazing during this. I'm already in the order que for 2 new light assemblies. My cabinet wrinkle around the button is gone, looks perfect now...the issue with something like that is the process of either sending back the cab (major PITA), having a tech come out to fix - may or may not and time involved..when I literally took 15 minutes, learned a new method and fixed it. I know there are those that will still say BS, demand them to fix it but I'm saving my warranty calls for the big stuff. I'm keeping an eye on the record, so far I don't notice it much and will most likely hit the distro up for a replacement at some point. I don't want to be labelled as (oh gawd, another email from that guy) type of customer either
If it's something I can fix and make it look just as good or better than factory, I'll tackle it...I'm kind of a (if you want something done right - kind of person)
If it's something that goes beyond my scope, then most definitely I push for warranty.

This.

This is called "being reasonable."

#8715 7 months ago

Had a good group session over the weekend. This happened on several occasions, anyone else run into this yet? The ramp doesn’t look adjustable, the gap between the ramp and the sticks causes the ball to sit there. Can’t even nudge it out, have to remove glass.

137854DA-C685-43B4-866B-30417145A1D3 (resized).jpegE6058098-FF09-41AC-8C38-47B117934E78 (resized).jpeg
#8716 7 months ago

Also just noticed my game pretty much arrived with the drumstick Mylar opening up from underneath both chuckers. Since they have a different part number due to the frank autographs on the CE, does it mean these will be available to replace if needed? Have more than 500 pairs been signed? I have a feeling I should triple wrap these ones ASAP.

Quick question. Where in the menu can I handle the shaker motor? Might want to turn it off at nights since I’m in an apartment building. Haven’t been able to find it on the system menus.

#8717 7 months ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Quick question. Where in the menu can I handle the shaker motor? Might want to turn it off at nights since I’m in an apartment building. Haven’t been able to find it on the system menus.

Settings->Coil Settings->General

#8718 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Yes, it's a wrap around the stick, the seam is on the bottom of the stick where there is about a 5cm overlap .
Since I'm in Houston and it's relatively humid and around 55% in our house usually versus Chicago..I'm guessing that and time have just allowed the adhesive to lose it's bond...The mylar is pretty thick stuff too and has some spring to it, probably necessary for the ramp. The mylar I wrapped around the bottom was about a quarter to half of the circumference of the stick, enough to cover the seam on both sides and prevent it from lifting.
I would never have noticed it had it not been for the gate hanging...
Now I'm shooting that right orbit and it is SMOOTH

Hey circling back around on the drumsticks. After closer look the mylar is coming off my sticks as well. So did you peel ALL the factory mylar off the sticks? Or just put it back in place and then use a small peice of mylar to keep the factory stuff on?

As far as removing the drumsticks its just a couple of screws? Any wires/soldering I need to worry about upsetting?

#8719 7 months ago

Here's my repair on my sticks for those who want to try self repair versus going the distro JJP route...

I would contact your distro first to make sure you can still be covered for replacement should you screw this up, it's not hard but takes a little patience

So the mylar used is pretty thick, the stuff i used is the sheets i ordered off pinball life. I didn't want to peel off the factory mylar at risk of messing up the Vater graphics..and I felt overall it was a nice look except for the adhesive. I cut about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide strip the length between the bracket near the tip bracket and the end of the mylar near the handgrips after the control bracket is removed (more on that below) securing the bottoms of the drumsticks. I attached my strip of mylar lengthwise about 1/4 inch to the side of the seam (basically making a flap extension of what was peeling) and once in place rolled it over the drumstick working slowly to keep the seal tight secured it on the other side...then just press it down using a microfiber towel to seal it completely.

To remove sticks:

1. lift playfield to 2nd or 3rd position
2. unscrew two small screws near the control board and then the 1 small screw near the tip of the sticks - the dumsticks are now free except for the plug
3. there is one plug that connects the control board to the stick assembly, unplug that and remove the plastic ball guard and set aside
4. Next, I removed the control board bracket so that my mylar would also be held in place by it post fix
5. perform mylar application above
6. make sure when screwing and unscrewing you use the correct size phillips head as you don't want to strip the screw. Drumsticks are hard wood and it requires downward and steady pressure to not strip the head of the screw - use the correct tool for the job - you'll have to poke two small holes in the mylar you just installed to reinsert the screws

7. plug back in bracket, reattach sticks lining up holes and plastic shield
8. test sticks in place after lowering playfield

Done!

Here's before and after again for those who don't want to scroll back in this thread
20210425_100005 (resized).jpg20210425_102208 (resized).jpg20210425_102229 (resized).jpg20210425_122709 (resized).jpg20210425_122718 (resized).jpg

#8720 7 months ago
Quoted from Straight2VHS:

2nd issue, I've been having issues with shots going towards the left outer orbit popping up then over into the coma outlane then draining. It looks like there is already a round clear disk mounted there to prevent this but the disk isn't large enough

I made a fix for this over the weekend. Took about 10 minutes. Works awesome.

Sorry the images are sideways. It won't let me rotate them.

e5e525066d01c25526d6c138ab15ae7ea0a0e629 (resized).jpg

04a14043351cf5cb636ac61124112927f0d589ba (resized).jpgb17ad717b5ddba56d27bd99d3b07f45795a5276d (resized).jpgfc2750751cc4557ab51aedd6703c1f93b82f32e0 (resized).jpg

#8721 7 months ago

My fix for the mylar was pretty simple. "Huh, that looks like it's coming off" (applied pressure with fingers to stick it back down).

#8722 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

My fix for the mylar was pretty simple. "Huh, that looks like it's coming off" (applied pressure with fingers to stick it back down).

Mine was extra springy and stiff (I'm talking about the mylar...bahdum-tiss, thanks I'll be here all night, try the veal and tip your waitress), it resisted sticking at all

#8723 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Here's my repair on my sticks for those who want to try self repair versus going the distro JJP route...
I would contact your distro first to make sure you can still be covered for replacement should you screw this up, it's not hard but takes a little patience
So the mylar used is pretty thick, the stuff i used is the sheets i ordered off pinball life. I didn't want to peel off the factory mylar at risk of messing up the Vater graphics..and I felt overall it was a nice look except for the adhesive. I cut about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide strip the length between the bracket near the tip bracket and the end of the mylar near the handgrips after the control bracket is removed (more on that below) securing the bottoms of the drumsticks. I attached my strip of mylar lengthwise about 1/4 inch to the side of the seam (basically making a flap extension of what was peeling) and once in place rolled it over the drumstick working slowly to keep the seal tight secured it on the other side...then just press it down using a microfiber towel to seal it completely.
To remove sticks:
1. lift playfield to 2nd or 3rd position
2. unscrew two small screws near the optic control board and then the 1 small screw near the tip of the sticks - the dumsticks are now free except for the plug
3. there is one plug that connects the control board to the stick assembly, unplug that and remove the plastic ball guard and set aside
4. Next, I removed the control board bracket so that my mylar would also be held in place by it post fix
5. perform mylar application above
6. make sure when screwing and unscrewing you use the correct size phillips head as you don't want to strrip the screw. Drumsticks are hard wood and it requires downward and steady pressure to not strip the head of the screw - use the correct tool for the job - you'll have to poke two small holes in the mylar you just installed to reinsert the screws
7. plug back in bracket, reattach sticks lining up holes and plastic shield
8. test sticks in place after lowering playfield
Done!
Here's before and after again for those who don't want to scroll back in this thread
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

thanks for the long explanation. Makes me feel better about doing this. I got Stranger Things LE and GnR LE within 24 hours of eachother and they both need little fixes that make me a bit un easy!

#8724 7 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

thanks for the long explanation. Makes me feel better about doing this. I got Stranger Things LE and GnR LE within 24 hours of eachother and they both need little fixes that make me a bit un easy!

no problem, I'm sure others may have the same issue

#8725 7 months ago
Quoted from JDub03:

Had a good group session over the weekend. This happened on several occasions, anyone else run into this yet? The ramp doesn’t look adjustable, the gap between the ramp and the sticks causes the ball to sit there. Can’t even nudge it out, have to remove glass.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Had the same issue, you can adjust the gate, loosen both bolts and adjust it just a bit upward at the end. No issue here since.

#8726 7 months ago

foofighters instructions were spot on. Sticks were a bit hard to get back in and had to move some things to place to get sticks back in but it all worked. 100% operational now.

#8727 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Here's my repair on my sticks for those who want to try self repair versus going the distro JJP route...
I would contact your distro first to make sure you can still be covered for replacement should you screw this up, it's not hard but takes a little patience
So the mylar used is pretty thick, the stuff i used is the sheets i ordered off pinball life. I didn't want to peel off the factory mylar at risk of messing up the Vater graphics..and I felt overall it was a nice look except for the adhesive. I cut about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide strip the length between the bracket near the tip bracket and the end of the mylar near the handgrips after the control bracket is removed (more on that below) securing the bottoms of the drumsticks. I attached my strip of mylar lengthwise about 1/4 inch to the side of the seam (basically making a flap extension of what was peeling) and once in place rolled it over the drumstick working slowly to keep the seal tight secured it on the other side...then just press it down using a microfiber towel to seal it completely.
To remove sticks:
1. lift playfield to 2nd or 3rd position
2. unscrew two small screws near the control board and then the 1 small screw near the tip of the sticks - the dumsticks are now free except for the plug
3. there is one plug that connects the control board to the stick assembly, unplug that and remove the plastic ball guard and set aside
4. Next, I removed the control board bracket so that my mylar would also be held in place by it post fix
5. perform mylar application above
6. make sure when screwing and unscrewing you use the correct size phillips head as you don't want to strip the screw. Drumsticks are hard wood and it requires downward and steady pressure to not strip the head of the screw - use the correct tool for the job - you'll have to poke two small holes in the mylar you just installed to reinsert the screws
7. plug back in bracket, reattach sticks lining up holes and plastic shield
8. test sticks in place after lowering playfield
Done!
Here's before and after again for those who don't want to scroll back in this thread
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This is awesome. Can we get this post keyed?

#8728 7 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

This is awesome. Can we get this post keyed?

Done. I put it under the playfield section of the tech posts. If you sort by keypost summary it puts them all together for easy browsing.

#8729 7 months ago

Coming soon from PinMonk

PINMONK (resized).jpg
#8730 7 months ago
Quoted from highdef:

Coming soon from PinMonk
[quoted image]

Um, that's a freaking 33dBA fan. Pinmonk would never sell something that obnoxiously loud.

Unfortunately, I also do not understand the joke. Replacement for broken spotlight servos? I don't get it.

#8731 7 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Done. I put it under the playfield section of the tech posts. If you sort by keypost summary it puts them all together for easy browsing.

Dude, I completely appreciate this! Still waiting on delivery, but if you can just keep starting the owners thread for anything I may buy, and organize the posts, I would appreciate it haha!

#8732 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Dude, I completely appreciate this! Still waiting on delivery, but if you can just keep starting the owners thread for anything I may buy, and organize the posts, I would appreciate it haha!

Waiting on delivery of what? It was a repair keypost.

I suddenly feel like I've been daydrinking. Two posts in a row I don't get.

#8733 7 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Um, that's a freaking 33dBA fan. Pinmonk would never sell something that obnoxiously loud.
Unfortunately, I also do not understand the joke. Replacement for broken spotlight servos? I don't get it.

Forget it. You took it way too literal. I did install one of your fans on TNA, so thank you.

#8734 7 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Waiting on delivery of what? It was a repair keypost.
I suddenly feel like I've been daydrinking. Two posts in a row I don't get.

Oh sorry lol.. I'm still waiting on delivery of a GNRLE. I just appreciate you (and everyone) with chiming in on fixes for the game. It makes it way easier to double check things on delivery and initial setup.

#8735 7 months ago
Quoted from highdef:

Forget it. You took it way too literal. I did install one of your fans on TNA, so thank you.

I didn't get the joke at all and I really wanted to. But I DO understand the concept of a joke no longer being funny once you have to explain it. Been there. Done that.

#8736 7 months ago

Whats the best way to get up the left ramp all the way? I dont feel like the backhand will get it up there often, and coming from the right flipper its very dangerous. I just had my first real good game 5.8m and 3 of my drains were trying to go up that left ramp.... I am plus 1 on each of my bottom flippers.

thanks!

#8737 7 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Whats the best way to get up the left ramp all the way? I dont feel like the backhand will get it up there often, and coming from the right flipper its very dangerous. I just had my first real good game 5.8m and 3 of my drains were trying to go up that left ramp.... I am plus 1 on each of my bottom flippers.
thanks!

I look for unique spots on the artwork as aim markers. This is what I am for on my machine to make the left ramp. I shoot for the black diagonal lines near the flipper.
IMG_2824.jpeg

#8738 7 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

foofighters instructions were spot on. Sticks were a bit hard to get back in and had to move some things to place to get sticks back in but it all worked. 100% operational now.</blockqu

Whats the best way to get up the left ramp all the way? I dont feel like the backhand will get it up there often, and coming from the right flipper its very dangerous. I just had my first real good game 5.8m and 3 of my drains were trying to go up that left ramp.... I am plus 1 on each of my bottom flippers.
thanks!

I'm in the same boat. The Appetite stand up is deadly. I watched a little of IE pinballs stream and he was going up with the right flipper...he did note that he align his flippers to the guides...I'm just gonna keep practicing but there is a definite narrow window of opportunity on that right flipper to not hit the dreaded Appetite standup and drain immediately versus going successfully up the ramp. I try to backhand it like the Death Star Ramp but it's really tough to time it perfect, you can do it if you hit it on the roll or a fast slap save...

It's a good challenge. I remember when the helicopter shot on JP was was nemesis..now I can hit that shot all day

I'd say the 3 hardest shots on GnR are : 1. Under the flipper - crowd 2. Left Ramp without draining 3. Left and right orbits when your panic flipping during a song

#8739 7 months ago

Anyone getting a ball stuck under the left orbit? Can't see where it is getting stuck and if I remove the upper playfield, I probably will not be able to reproduce it.

We were getting a ball stuck, coming out of the pops, the gate was sticking on the drumstick wrapping and causing a bind. i removed the drumsticks and shaved with a razor some of the wrapping that had come loose.

Thoughts on the left orbit??

#8740 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I'm in the same boat. The Appetite stand up is deadly. I watched a little of IE pinballs stream and he was going up with the right flipper...he did note that he lowered his flippers slightly from factory (flopped)...similar to Jurassic Park I'm assuming for making those side shots easier...I'm just gonna keep practicing but there is a definite narrow window of opportunity on that right flipper to not hit the dreaded Appetite standup and drain immediately versus going successfully up the ramp. I try to backhand it like the Death Star Ramp but it's really tough to time it perfect, you can do it if you hit it on the roll or a fast slap save...
It's a good challenge. I remember when the helicopter shot on JP was was nemesis..now I can hit that shot all day
I'd say the 3 hardest shots on GnR are : 1. Under the flipper - crowd 2. Left Ramp without draining 3. Left and right orbits when your panic flipping during a song

Well I do plus 1 to flippers because I hate how weak JJP flippers feel! Also I own SW Premium and Ive RARELY been able to backhand the death star ramp. But I can hit it pretty consistently from the right.(except during multiball trying to blow up the damn death star)

#8741 7 months ago
Quoted from bsrhardy:

Anyone getting a ball stuck under the left orbit? Can't see where it is getting stuck and if I remove the upper playfield, I probably will not be able to reproduce it.
We were getting a ball stuck, coming out of the pops, the gate was sticking on the drumstick wrapping and causing a bind. i removed the drumsticks and shaved with a razor some of the wrapping that had come loose.
Thoughts on the left orbit??

Maybe something stuck in the switch? I think someone found a screw in there once. Maybe the switch needs a little bend to ride lower?

Here's a naked pic if it helps diagnose. I think I'd poke a magnet around where the wire switch is first. (check it from below too)

IMG_2996 (resized).jpeg
#8742 7 months ago

I got a switch test result with 3 bad switches, but I can’t find them. Could someone please help me out or point me in the right direction? Thank you

7B2CE14A-6983-4CC1-B84F-E834917AD61C (resized).jpeg
#8743 7 months ago
Quoted from lpgnr:

I got a switch test result with 3 bad switches,

They are on the flipper mechs. Likely a broken wire at one of them killing others.

EOS - End Of Stroke switch.

LTG : )

#8744 7 months ago
Quoted from lpgnr:

I got a switch test result with 3 bad switches, but I can’t find them. Could someone please help me out or point me in the right direction? Thank you
[quoted image]

It looks like they are all on the same connector - first thing I'd do is check in the backbox and make sure that connector J601 is well seated.

#8745 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

They are on the flipper mechs.

Circled in yellow in this picture.

LTG : )

bec75d06029c6b21c231a4adc61a5606985a93d1 (resized).jpg
#8746 7 months ago

Thanks for the fast response. This is beyond my knowledge at this point. It sucks not knowing anything about pinball machines and owning one . . .

#8747 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Circled in yellow in this picture.
LTG : )
[quoted image]

Thanks. I see no issues with my switches when I lift the play field.

13
#8748 7 months ago
Quoted from lpgnr:

It sucks not knowing anything about pinball machines and owning one . . .

Not that bad.

You can learn.

Ask questions. Study. Get some basic knowledge on how to solder, use a meter. Things like that. Youtube is filled with short how to videos.

Only thing I ask is after you learn. In the future pass on what you know to help others. That my friend makes pinball great.

LTG : )

#8749 7 months ago
Quoted from lpgnr:

Thanks for the fast response. This is beyond my knowledge at this point. It sucks not knowing anything about pinball machines and owning one . . .

Don't worry you've got this.

Raise the playfield and examine the left and right flippers closely for any wires that are loose / no longer soldered where they should be.

If everything is ok there put the playfield back down, remove the backglass, pull the monitor straight forward (it's on an arm and held in with magnets) and look for J601 on the now-exposed driver board. Make sure the connector is seated firmly and maybe push the wires in a bit on the connector also if they have any give.

#8750 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Only thing I ask is after you learn. In the future pass on what you know to help others. That my friend makes pinball great.
LTG : )

This. I've learned so many useful things from Lloyd The Great.

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