Guns N' Roses (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2020
Guns N' Roses (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2020
Guns N' Roses (SE)
Jersey Jack, 2020You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider kevlar.
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IMG_20221013_143357 (resized).jpgIMG_20221013_143315 (resized).jpgI've just received and setup my GNR LE, I'm the 2nd owner and it has about 100 plays. The cabinet decals are bubbled on both sides of the cab, around the backbox hinges. The artwork is fine but the clear plastic over the top is bubbling. Has anyone had to deal with this problem? Is there a fix other than fitting new decals?
Quoted from PinMonk:Warm the area of the wrinkle up gently with a blowdryer and use a credit card to carefully flatten out the wrinkle by moving it to the edges with the edge of a credit card. You'll have to alternate moving and warming the next area ahead of where the wrinkle is moving until you get to the edge.
Thanks, I'll give it a try. Is this common on the machine?
What's the current status with the magnet? It's been disabled from new on the machine I've just bought due to issues with magnets at the time this machine was new. Has code fixed the overheating issue since then or should I leave it disabled?
Quoted from PinMonk:The diverter runs very hot. It's been measured at 214 degrees within 2 hours of play. If you have the latest software, the temp should be less, but still around 186F with a couple hours of straight play.
The way the game is designed (there should have been a secondary coil to manage a lock holding the diverter down so the coil didn't have to stay energized for LONG periods of time) there's no way to bring the temp down without external cooling. I sell a cooling kit here on pinside and pinmonk.com that cools the magnet and diverter. Peak temp with the cooling kit installed is 86F.
That said, this failure on yours may have also taken out the transistor that drives the coil on the power board in the head, so before you put a new coil on, I would test the transistor to make sure it's not shorted open.The newest software is better, but can still overwork temps so the thermal switch they're using fails and it kills power to the magnet permanently until the switch is replaced. Removing the thermal switch and running the game without it is dangerous, IMO, so external cooling is the only good solution.
I'm late to the game so I'm sure this has all been said before but how the fuck did it make it out of the factory like this? did they not play the game for more than 20 minutes? ridiculous.
Quoted from Vespula:You bought the pin new or used like this?
Its an issue that doesn't happen to all machines and it doesn't happen right away if it happen at all. I don't know what the percentage is. Some people might not know the game well enough to notice or figure out since it's not activated all the time anyway.
Nothing is broken on my machine which I just bought 2nd hand. The magnet has been disabled by the original user from new. My comment was about the poor design, not that it's affected me yet.
On a different topic, if anyone has installed the official topper, can you tell me on which face of the U channel the LED strip goes? is it behind the sign facing forward, in the bottom of the channel facing up or the front facing backwards lighting the sign from the front? mine arrived with the LED strip not working, and had been repaired by the previous owner. It was clamped behind the sign by the sign/screws but it doesn't look right to me.
Quoted from PinMonk:The LED strip goes in the center of the channel directly below the plastic piece so it lights it up from the bottom edge. You put the plastic marquee directly over the led strip in the channel.
Thanks, it definitely was in the wrong place before.
Quoted from Vespula:Fairly common. Instructions were not great.
There's a good write up in the key posts from thechakapakuni (RIP) that is good with pictures.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/346#post-6593835
If you want some cool modz for your topper, check this site out https://www.pinballmodz.com/
On your magnet, turn it on and enjoy it. Mine never broke after 1k plays I added a fan for piece of mind.
If you want to take those steps, install a fan on it. Pinmonk sells fan kits which covers the 3 flippers, diverter coil, and magnet.
Here https://pinmonk.com/products/gnr-magnet-and-diverter-cooling-kit
But you will need this too
You need this https://pinmonk.com/products/tibetan-breeze-jjp-pin-3-flipper-cooling-kit
Thanks. It's a pity you have to have the flipper fans to install the magnet and diverter fans, I'm not sure flipper fans are needed on this machines ( admittedly I haven't had a mega long game yet ).
On my machine the right ramp diverter to the little off ramp ends with the ball bouncing into the middle of the playfield. I assume it's supposed to nicely feed the upper flipper for a shot at the COMA target and the inner loop? some off ramp bending required I guess?
Quoted from Kevlar:On my machine the right ramp diverter to the little off ramp ends with the ball bouncing into the middle of the playfield. I assume it's supposed to nicely feed the upper flipper for a shot at the COMA target and the inner loop? some off ramp bending required I guess?
I bent the little off ramp down quite a bit and now it's fine.
Anyone care to share their patch strategy? A friend suggested the bra and underwear were his go to patches for higher skill shot scoring and double bonus which I've been doing and seems well worth it. Any other favourite combos?
Quoted from screaminr:Update .
While we had the playfield out , we installed the speakers for pinwoofer and hooked up an external sub .
Sounds awesome , just makes the game feel so much fuller .
Had some issues with sound clipping ( sound volume cutting.in.and.out ) but turned up the master volume and pretty much sorted it out , still happening every now and then but with some more tweaks to the settings I'm sure it will be fine .
We played for about 6 hours straight , till 4 a.m. and had a blast .
I can fully recommend the pinwoofer system , if any game deserves it , this is it .
And thanks to Dan for reaching out so quickly when I initially had issues ( because I didn't change the speakers over )
Great customer service .
I think you need to turn up the gain control slightly to eliminate that sound muting.
Quoted from screaminr:I've been concentrating on Power cord .
I Got It Up to x 8 but didnt lock any balls
The next game I Got It Up to x 3 and had 5 balls locked but then got gready trying to get it x more
Lots of stuff in this game to keep you coming back for more .
How do you increase the X?
Quoted from Vespula:That's a new one. Curious why? I haven't seen settings for this , and if there is I've missed it. In both cases you could simply unplug power to them. Magnet power under the playfield, and to light the spots but prevent them moving, then I think you can just leave main power but unplug the 4 servo connections only.
The Magnet on mine hasn't worked since I got it, I thought it had been disabled by the first owner, maybe it's disconnected. The spotlights? they still work but I don't plan to have this machine for that much longer so thought I'd disable their movement before they self destruct ( as they all seem to ) so I don't have to buy pricey replacement parts before I sell it.
Quoted from sevenrites:It could be one, or a combination of things. Sometimes the servo fails. Sometimes the linkage fails. And sometimes, the servo where it connects to the linkage, gets loose or stripped and needs tightened some more. I think that's the main ones.
There are some key posts talking about the spotlights, upgraded linkage kits you can 3D print or buy, sources for the servos outside of JJP, and etc.
Post #8798 TECH: LIGHTING. Links to servos that will work to replace broken stage lighting servos.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/176#post-6250280
Post #9238 TECH: LIGHTING. Swapping out defective spotlight assemblies
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/185#post-6266468
Post #9441 TECH: LIGHTING. 3D model link to make replacement part for broken spotlights
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/189#post-6272173
Post #13853 TECH: LIGHTING. Spotlight service bulletin fix from JJP.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/278#post-6455419
Post #13891 TECH: LIGHTING. Spotlight servo adjustment procedure
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/278#post-6456526
Post #17572 MOD: PLAYFIELD. Servo bracket link to 3D print better servo bracket and linkage yourself
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/352#post-6604413
Post #20916 TECH: LIGHTING. Spotlight servo wiring color key.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/419#post-6849021
I think that was all of them.
Thanks, some good info there.
Quoted from Sako-TRG:Yeah, man, thanks for replying.
I couldnāt find that settingā¦ since itās the main one that cuts down on the number and frequency of MBs, quite keen to find it..lol
I adjusted my settings yesterday and struggled with the same setting. Managed to find 2 of the 3 recommended to change, think crowd was the one I couldn't find.
Does anyone else's left ramp reject a lot of balls? I'm not sure if it's the diverter groove causing it or maybe the screw heads and rivets at the top of the ramp being proud but I get a lot of balls bouncing at the top of the ramp and coming straight back down. I've tried tightening the screws down but they're already down as low as they can go. Maybe the wrong screws are fitted?
Quoted from cybevenom:It looks like you have a playfield protector on the upper playfield. This causes the playfield to be higher than the ramp exit to said upperplayfield allowing the ball to roll back onto the ramp. Without that playfield protector the playfield is a bit lower than the ramp preventing the ball to roll back.
Pretty sure I haven't, and the upper playfield surface is about half an inch lower than the top of the ramp.
Quoted from Wildbill327:Try sliding a credit card over the ramp to see if it catches/snags on the diverter hole. If it does you can add a few post rubbers to lift the bottom area of the diverter hole. On my game the ball use to jump up the ramp but once I did the āramp lift kitā itās nice and smooth. Hope this helps.
[quoted image]
Thanks very much for this suggestion, it was the groove launching the ball in the air on my machine, it would then hit the edge of the bass guitar ramp above it. I've put something in there to raise that part of the ramp up and its 100% smoother now. Wish I'd looked harder at it before now, I just thought it was a terrible ramp design and clunky as fuck but it's much better now.
Sometimes I end up with the balls in the guitar lock unevenly distributed to the point where if I was to lock another ball it would go to the side that's already full and screw up the game. Is this an issue others have faced? I've tried tightening the little throwing star diverter thinking it's moving too freely but it's as tight as I can get it and still moving very freely. Only other thing I can think of is a sensor fault leading the machine to release a ball from the wrong side of the lock leaving it unbalanced. Maybe I should video a few games to see what's happening.
Quoted from Kevlar:Sometimes I end up with the balls in the guitar lock unevenly distributed to the point where if I was to lock another ball it would go to the side that's already full and screw up the game. Is this an issue others have faced? I've tried tightening the little throwing star diverter thinking it's moving too freely but it's as tight as I can get it and still moving very freely. Only other thing I can think of is a sensor fault leading the machine to release a ball from the wrong side of the lock leaving it unbalanced. Maybe I should video a few games to see what's happening.
I believe I've fixed it, the throwing star diverter was indeed too loose so could end up either moving through vibration or bouncing back. No amount of tightening the screw will help though, there's a bent washer in there which provides resistance to stop it moving too freely, I just bent the washer a bit more and re-assembled.
Quoted from Vernisious:Do you know what kind of spacer you used? I have the same issue.
Not sure exactly what it was I used, found it in my toolbox. Looks like a shooter rod rubber but its hard plastic and flat on the end about 1/2" long.
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Newport
Bensenville, IL