This burned connection is power and returns for the 4 lighting circuits for the game. Very common for most games to have heat on these connections and the problem gets worst with arcing at the connections. I have used IDC connectors, but have much more confidence in the trifurcon crimp connectors and housings.

You can use it, but it requires you having to cut a section out of the top of your speaker panel. The LCD version is too tall to fit into the speaker panel, so it needs to stick out the top. You won't miss any of the graphics though - the content is just displayed on the visible part.

The jury seems split on which is better (LCD/LED), but it seems to come down to personal preference. Since it seemed split, I just went the easier route and got the LED. I've been happy with it so far. Major upgrade.

Any tips with this? I've managed to fix the other issues, but ROW 3 and ROW 4 are lighting at the same time, when only one should be lit. Example includes the 2 ball and Raptor Pit white lights both glowing simultaneously, when only one should be lit during raptor rampage mode or when 2 ball is available.

Not exactly a pic, but here's the instructions from Color DMD.
https://www.colordmd.com/Assembly%20for%20Instructions%20Data%20East%20Plastic%20Speaker%20Panel%20Rev5.PDF

I *think* the LCD version was first, hence these official instructions. But now that the LED is out, that is their officially supported version for JP.

Curious if your problem with the switch has continued? I'm having the exact same issue with my right flipper EOS switch, it is registering as open when it's clearly closed while the flipper is down.

Is cleaning the contacts my best bet?

That may or may not fix it, but it is a very easy first step. Take a business card and run it through the switch while you pinch the two sides together. You will most likely get some black on the white card.

Hi, on the previous page you will see that I solved the problem by making the change to the flipper board as indicated, a few posts before, by zaza

Ahhhh my bad, thanks for the heads up. I just installed new switches via the flipper rebuild kit from Marco, so I'm thinking it's not the actual switch itself that's causing the problem here. I'll look into the board.

Perhaps you missed my post #8410 which included a link to the respective service bulletin.

I have had my jp for almost 14 years. It was my first game. It has been a solid game.
Tonight it froze up mid-Stampede. No flippers, playing music but dmd just stuck at 12 seconds.
I shut it down.
Now if i power it up i only get the intial t-rex call and gi lighting. No boot , no dmd.
I suspect a power supply issue but i am open to any advice you guys might have.
TIA
Cliff

Here are the notes I made when checking my DC power issue with notations on the PS board schematic:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/159#post-5728513

I read your notes and follow you thought process.
Sadly, both my 5v and 12 v are where they were prior to this failure. I removed the PS and it has been repaired in the past but nothing looks bad.

I did find a leaking cap on the sound board but with that board disconnected still no boot.

Down switch adjustments

Make sure the plastic scoop the ball sits on isn't cracked/broken.

Sorry, I don't follow. On the PS board there are test points: TP1 5v, TP3 +12v, TP4 -12v. Do those measure OK with the cables all connected?

Yes. Connectors on or no connectors, power readings are the same.
5v = 5.01vdc
12v = 11.38 vdc
Other
12v = 14.8 Vdc
I have these measurements written down from before. They are the same now. Connected or not connected.

I have a couple quick questions. Im rebuilding the flippers and the manual indicates only the left flipper has an EOS. However, my game has a switch on both lower flippers. First, should I remove the right flipper EOS? Second, Would someone mind checking their machine for the wire colors on the EOS? One flipper has the blue wire on the long leg and the other has the blue on the short leg. Im trying male sure everything is correct.

Hi, in the diagnostics menu I did the T-Rex test. Depending on how I move it, right, center, up, down, the relative switch goes on; while if I move it to the left the switch always remains on off even if the movement of the T-REX is perfect towards the left and also during the game it's perfect. Why doesn't it turn on during the test if I send it to the left? Thanks

Plastic needed

Hi guys, I need the plastic located near the 3rd flipper, I would greatly appreciate it if anyone has a spare, could I please buy it.

060BF934-365E-4686-ABE9-17826EACD054 (resized).jpeg

9BF27387-15AA-465E-A084-2E006B82EE92 (resized).jpeg

I have one. Its not perfect.

FADC3956-BBD2-45C9-A565-A6EFA7804E66 (resized).jpeg

Nothing?

Can you manualy activate the switch in test with your finger?

Since there's a lot of "caution stripe" mods for JP, I took my custom color posts to the next level -- check out my new Caution Posts!

CautionPosts__RCP (resized).jpg

These were way more of a pain than I expected to get just right, and they require a lot of extra 'babysitting' since I have to change the filament SIX times (including initial setup ... hence the higher cost than my other posts) and they have to be printed on an angle, but they came out super awesome. See more pics below.

Available on my website (https://rocketcitypinball.com) or in my shop here on Pinside (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/04735-caution-posts-for-jurassic-park-amp-more)

CautionPosts-Inst1_RCP (resized).jpg

CautionPosts-Inst2_RCP (resized).jpg

CautionPosts-Inst3_RCP (resized).jpg

CautionPosts-Inst4_RCP (resized).jpg

Yes and they work, when I press them it turns on on the display

Can you post a video? That may help.

Those posts would work in high speed as well

Very true, though I also made these for High Speed:

Stoplight_RCP (resized).jpg

After a few months with my JP,
I love it, but can I be a bit critical of it and have some thoughts or solutions?

The ball save drives me mad... I'm used to that grace period on Bally Williams, many times the shoot again light stops flashing while the ball drains, so no "IAN, FREEZE!". So frustrating dar on my other pins there seems to be a 1 second grace period.

Also during multiball there's no raptor pit ball save.

Very rarely the ball drains when leaving the pop bumpers, this is annoying when it spends so much time in the pops after launch then drains when the ball save light has just gone out.

I guess these are common issues for everyone and quirks of DE JP?

A few months later...
Been holding off, waiting for the time to make a big order and solve this problem.

This is the rubber set I got originally,
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/pinball-rubber/rubber-kits/5171/rubber-set-for-jurassic-park-data-east-premium-black?c=2304

Does this confirm that the rubbers on my slings aren't the correct 2 1/2 size?
I am going to order some new rubbers just for the slings but I'm worried that I'll end up with the same size

The posts seem to be correct to me so no issue there?

What code are you running?

The newest custom one, v6?

Another query... Is there supposed to be a rubber on this white post?

20210121_124046 (resized).jpg

Nope.

Also, may want to get some cliffys on there.

IMG_5017 (resized).jpeg

It came with cliffys but the ball would get stuck ejecting from the bunker.
I guess whoever put them on did it badly? The holes are supposed to be fixed before you apply the cliffys right?

Also the manual says 2 3/4 rubber for sling shots... I assume its incorrect?

I had a similar problem with mine. Cliffys were added without fixing the hole. The ball wouldn't get stuck, but every kickout from the bunker would go SDTM. Repair the hole (probably bondo, but not my area of expertise) then reinstall the cliffy (go with a new one - old one is probably bent to hell since it wasn't sitting flat) and you should be good to go.

I can confirm the manual is wrong but can't tell you what is right. Not with my machine at the moment.

I vote for no Cliffys. I had them on mine for a while. They deflected more ball from going into the scoops. And I figured my holes were beat up enough that I really wouldn't cause or even notice any damage from JUST me playing the game, than it experienced in the time it was on location getting played all day every day.

Now if I had a NIB DE JP, I'd for sure put them on.

I went with Mantis protectors on all 3 scoop holes. My scoop holes had very little wear so it was an easy decision for me to make. No matter what type of protector you install (Cliffy or Mantis) you will need to try to repair the damage prior to installing the protector for best results.

Gord

P1000562 (resized).JPG
P1000564 (resized).JPG
P1000568 (resized).JPG

Had that problem on mine, unscrewed the assembly and move it back or over as far as it would go and problem was gone.

Just a heads up...I am about 2-3 weeks away from starting to run some DEJP subway ramps. These are thicker than standard ramps...3/16" vs 1/8". If you would like to get on the list, click the "notify" button on the product page. Pricing will be ~$100.

https://rampomatic.com/collections/data-east-ramps/products/data-east-jurassic-park-subway-ramp?variant=37904387702967

scootss

Hello and thanks for replying, the pinball machine belongs to a friend of mine, he will make me a short video where you can see the problem. Thanks

Not sure about that, but I'd think out of all the boards that could be replaced/fixed, that would be the easiest one to fix since there's really no components on it. Just a ground and a couple hot leads. Should be able to track it down and either bypass the issue, or cover up where its shorting at.

But I'd almost guess it's coming from elsewhere. What happens when you pull the connector off it and boot it up? are the lighting issues contained to just those lights?

Also, that's one clean looking underside.

so...I'm gonna second the thought that you should not be writing off the board just yet. In my experience, its almost never the board and the couple times there was a problem, it was easily fixed. the lamp boards are basically just the 10 or 15 lamp sockets on one board to make it easier to change bulbs. In fact, many of the system 11 boards were just that, actual lamp sockets soldered to a pcb. The 3 things to look for on the board would be 1. diode 2. cold solder or solder bridge on header 3. bad lamp socket, either the bulb or tabs. There's nothing else to break.

Is it plugged in correctly?
Has anyone changed the plug?

I imagining rainbow stripped posts on WoZ and Wonka.

Cool idea, I'll look into that once my red/orange/yellow ones are done that I'm printing to try on my BK2K

Plastic needed

Unfortunately I’m still chasing this plastic , would greatly appreciate it if you could help me. It does not need to be perfect.

I need the plastic located near the 3rd flipper, I would greatly appreciate it if anyone has a spare, could I please buy it.

E25D2755-088C-4049-9C43-9E94063020C0 (resized).jpeg

You may want to create a 'Want to Buy' ad for this specific plastic and link it to a discussion forum post. I did exactly that for a small BSD plastic that I have been hunting down for months and received multiple replies via the ad.

Gord