(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • 7,150 posts
  • 416 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by jamex
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

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There are 7150 posts in this topic. You are on page 65 of 143.
#3201 2 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

Feels good to know you got it working doesn't it?

Agreed, I get almost as much satisfaction out of fixing a broken game as I do playing a good game.

#3202 2 years ago

Nice.

#3203 2 years ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

We just ran 200 sets, and half are sold now.

With all these new sets purchased, there must be a similar amount of old sets needing a home (even with the several comments of those holding on to their old set). I don't think I am the first to make this offer, but if anyone is willing to sell some or all of their old set, I specifically need the plastic behind the upper flipper but will buy the entire old set if preferred - please PM me. Thanks!

#3204 2 years ago

Damnit. Went ahead and ordered a set. Figured it's best to have on hand, than not being able to find them down the road. Next time I do a full teardown clean of the machine, I'll probably put them on.

#3205 2 years ago

1 (resized).png
I was cleaning last night and noticed a post on the right side (in red) that's not on the left. I don't seem to have rubber on this post either. The left side has a small hole for a post but looks like one was never installed. Are your machines the same way?

2 (resized).png
Anyone have problems with these lamp sockets getting really hot? I had LED's in there and both were getting super hot. Melting plastic smell hot. I haven't explored yet but wondering if anyone else has seen issues like that.

#3206 2 years ago
Quoted from Time:

Are your machines the same way?

I have a metal post and rubber above the wire guide on both sides.

The lamp sockets should not be hot. Maybe the wires are shorted to each other or to the post? Maybe something is wired wrong or touching another wire giving too much voltage. Measure the voltage at the socket and check the resistance, etc.

#3207 2 years ago

I think the machines only had the right post, and people added the left on their own?

#3208 2 years ago
Quoted from Time:

Anyone have problems with these lamp sockets getting really hot? I had LED's in there and both were getting super hot. Melting plastic smell hot. I haven't explored yet but wondering if anyone else has seen issues like that.

I think they look ok in the pic, but can't see it all...shouldn't get hot with led. Make sure contacts have a good connection, i.e no corrosion or loose wire. I would also make sure the wires on the led and socket are adjusted to properly touch the contacts as less metal = increased resistance. If the socket isn't holding the bulbs tight, it could be making less contact. Also maybe test the leds somewhere else or replace...they could be having an issue themselves.

2 weeks later
#3209 2 years ago

Thought this was interesting concerning the CPR plastic colors. This is a copy of the JP flyer, look at the flipper plastics, they are a darker blue than the rest...

jpFlyerRear (resized).jpg

#3210 2 years ago

Just finished my jp with new decals and custom painted
What do you guys think
Thanks

IMG_4966 (resized).JPG

IMG_4967 (resized).JPG

IMG_4968 (resized).JPG

#3211 2 years ago
Quoted from stwicks:

Thought this was interesting concerning the CPR plastic colors. This is a copy of the JP flyer, look at the flipper plastics, they are a darker blue than the rest...

Yes but it's ONLY the flipper plastics. All of the CPR plastics came out too dark - or all of the blue is too faded on my entire playfield while none of the reds on my playfield or cab show this fading, however you wanna look at it.

#3212 2 years ago
Quoted from goggleloy:

Just finished my jp with new decals and custom painted
What do you guys think
Thanks

Looks great!

#3213 2 years ago

So, the choice.... Buy inferior colored plastic set and sell off some of my originals. Or wait and hope to score a few originals once people start replacing them...

#3214 2 years ago
Quoted from stwicks:

Thought this was interesting concerning the CPR plastic colors. This is a copy of the JP flyer, look at the flipper plastics, they are a darker blue than the rest...

Original flyer with clear pop bumpers, ceramic captive ball, and orange apron decals?

#3215 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

So, the choice.... Buy inferior colored plastic set and sell off some of my originals. Or wait and hope to score a few originals once people start replacing them...

Nice to have a choice. When i went through mine the choice was repair as best you could or buy the one NOS set that was showing up on Pinball classifieds for$400US i think it was.

#3216 2 years ago
Quoted from pkrobin:

Nice to have a choice. When i went through mine the choice was repair as best you could or buy the one NOS set that was showing up on Pinball classifieds for$400US i think it was.

Good point, I ordered a set. I'll sell some originals and maybe the new orange sling-shot set too.

#3217 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Good point, I ordered a set. I'll sell some originals and maybe the new orange sling-shot set too.

First in line for your originals.

#3218 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Good point, I ordered a set. I'll sell some originals and maybe the new orange sling-shot set too.

I'd have to double check but pretty sure this is the one i need (for sure its one or the other under the light stack) if yours happens to be in good shape could look at buying just that or the whole set.

https://flic.kr/p/T1TuTK

#3219 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

So, the choice.... Buy inferior colored plastic set and sell off some of my originals. Or wait and hope to score a few originals once people start replacing them...

With the color mismatch, it'd be smarter to do them all.

Just got my set in the mail. Initial inspection, they look good. I don't know if I'd be able to tell a difference after they've been installed for a while. The blues do look darker, but seem closer to the color of the playfield. And actually, I kinda hope it dims the lights a bit, to give it more of an old incandescent look. Even though I replaced all my bulbs with Retro Warm-White, it lit the whole playfield up by 2-3x brighter.

But I'm in no rush to place my current plastic. I'm going to wait another year when I do another teardown, and complete cleaning of the machine again. At that time I'll replace the plastic. And no, I probably won't be selling my old ones.

#3220 2 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Agreed, I get almost as much satisfaction out of fixing a broken game as I do playing a good game.

Welcome to come and visit my collection any time then!

#3221 2 years ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

Original flyer with clear pop bumpers, ceramic captive ball, and orange apron decals?

and orange t rex post with the spot light

#3222 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

First in line for your originals.

To be honest, I'll offer up a few once the set arrives late next week but honestly, I don't need the drama of Pinside when selling stuff. I'm not looking to make huge money but if I list a new set of slings for $30 ( at or below eBay SOLD levels ) I'll get ridiculed and lambasted for gouging and ripping people off... don't need it.

Quoted from woody24:

With the color mismatch, it'd be smarter to do them all.
Just got my set in the mail. Initial inspection, they look good. I don't know if I'd be able to tell a difference after they've been installed for a while. The blues do look darker, but seem closer to the color of the playfield. And actually, I kinda hope it dims the lights a bit, to give it more of an old incandescent look. Even though I replaced all my bulbs with Retro Warm-White, it lit the whole playfield up by 2-3x brighter.
But I'm in no rush to place my current plastic. I'm going to wait another year when I do another teardown, and complete cleaning of the machine again. At that time I'll replace the plastic. And no, I probably won't be selling my old ones.

That's what I'm going to do. Ordered the set and will replace them all.

#3223 2 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

and orange t rex post with the spot light

lol, didn't even notice that...maybe this is starting to explain the reason for the alternate orange pop bumpers.

#3224 2 years ago

Hey guys, new issue with my JP. Last night I turned the game on and GI lights came on but that's it. No roar, no sound, no DMD, no attract mode. Tried reseating connectors and cables...same issue. None of the 3 LEDs on the board light, flash or anything either (PIA, 5V, etc). Where should I try next?

#3225 2 years ago
Quoted from tjprice222:

Hey guys, new issue with my JP. Last night I turned the game on and GI lights came on but that's it. No roar, no sound, no DMD, no attract mode. Tried reseating connectors and cables...same issue. None of the 3 LEDs on the board light, flash or anything either (PIA, 5V, etc). Where should I try next?

Sounds like the MPU board isn't getting +5v. I would check the power connector to the MPU and start with some multimeter testing there.

#3226 2 years ago

tjprice222 - I've attached 2 pictures of my machine. Sounds like the same thing is happening to me too - was going to post a new thread but if it's the same then I'll troubleshoot as you do.

The machine comes on and does a roar sound for a split second and then the machine just stays lit up but with nothing happening.

IMAG0251 (resized).jpg

IMAG0252 (resized).jpg

#3227 2 years ago
Quoted from gunnermac:

tjprice222 - I've attached 2 pictures of my machine. Sounds like the same thing is happening to me too - was going to post a new thread but if it's the same then I'll troubleshoot as you do.
The machine comes on and does a roar sound for a split second and then the machine just stays lit up but with nothing happening.

Take the backglass off and start from the top:
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Data_East_CPU_Board_LED_Flash_Sequence_at_Boot_Up_When_Working_Properly

#3228 2 years ago

Hi,

Does someone could take a picture of connector CN3 on the cpu, only the male connector part. Look like mine is not complete...

Also, pictures on display are "shaking" a little bit sometimes, does anyone got this problem before? thank you.

IMG_20170506_115448 (resized).jpg

#3229 2 years ago

My JP CN3 is only missing the key pin 6. You would need to review the schematics to see if those pins are are necessary.

IMG_3904 (resized).JPG

#3230 2 years ago
Quoted from lanfeust:

Also, pictures on display are "shaking" a little bit sometimes, does anyone got this problem before? thank you.

Try wiggling the small ribbon cable that goes from the DMD to the DMD controller. If no difference, then wiggle the larger ribbon cable from the DMD controller board to the MPU board. One of them may be flaky because of the bends at the connector ends.

#3231 2 years ago

gunnermac Are your three lights coming on on the main board? You can troubleshoot if they based on their status. Mine weren't coming on at all and I have everything except 5v at the test points on the power supply board.

Checked fuses for 5v and they were good so I just ordered a replacement rottendog power supply board from Little Sop of Games for $95. If that's the issue, I'll replace the components on my old board and sell one of them. I'll keep you posted.

#3232 2 years ago

Listed a bunch of plastics on Ebay, all with best offer and for any Pinsider, Im flexible. Just send me an offer and mention your a Pinside member.

Keep in mind, these are coming from Canada, shipping is stupid expensive, unless it will fit a regular white envelope.

I have others I will try to list today as well.

Edit: I have a few plastics that are broken. If they would be an upgrade for you, just pay shipping and they are yours.

#3233 2 years ago

gunnermac popped in the Rottendog board and everything fired right up. FYI.

#3234 2 years ago

My game is back up and running, still waiting for a few more items but can finally enjoy it!

I do have a question though, is it just me, or does this game have the worst reflection from the backglass and dmd, you have ever seen??

Its so bad I had to place a light directly above it, so I could remove the reflection and actually see the ball.

#3235 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

My game is back up and running, still waiting for a few more items but can finally enjoy it!
I do have a question though, is it just me, or does this game have the worst reflection from the backglass and dmd, you have ever seen??
Its so bad I had to place a light directly above it, so I could remove the reflection and actually see the ball.

Bent plastic.

#3236 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

My game is back up and running, still waiting for a few more items but can finally enjoy it!
I do have a question though, is it just me, or does this game have the worst reflection from the backglass and dmd, you have ever seen??
Its so bad I had to place a light directly above it, so I could remove the reflection and actually see the ball.

Or a dmd antiglare filter

#3237 2 years ago

For sure that's an easy fix but its the back glass glare as well, I cant believe how bad it is.

#3238 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

For sure that's an easy fix but its the back glass glare as well, I cant believe how bad it is.

When I got my game, it had a number of missing bulbs from the head. I was going to replace them, until I realized the backglass was still nicely lit, but dimmer as that it didn't cause as bad of reflection.

Try pulling out a few random bulbs.

#3239 2 years ago

Here's a photo with the backglass on and off.

2017-05-14 15.14.00 (resized).jpg

2017-05-14 15.14.36 (resized).jpg

#3240 2 years ago

In need of the metal ball guide that goes on the upper right of the playfield. If anyone has one, please let me know.

Thanks.

Archived after 319 days
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Unknown reason:
Parts - Wanted
Wanted! “Looking for the metal ball guide that goes on the upper right of the playfield. Circled in the pic below.”
2017-05-14
Wescosville, PA
Wanted

#3241 2 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

When I got my game, it had a number of missing bulbs from the head. I was going to replace them, until I realized the backglass was still nicely lit, but dimmer as that it didn't cause as bad of reflection.
Try pulling out a few random bulbs.

Thanks! I'll give that a try.

#3242 2 years ago

I think I put one LED in my back box for the sun. Everything else just stuck with incandescents looks great and keeps the glare down.

#3243 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

For sure that's an easy fix but its the back glass glare as well, I cant believe how bad it is.

get anti reflective glass...pdi, invisi-glass, or planertary's product

#3244 2 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

get anti reflective glass...pdi, invisi-glass, or planertary's product

I was at TPF and there was a sheet the new Stern glass on a GB. I didn't think it helped at all. All the reflections were still there, they just all had a pink hue to them. Maybe it works better in a darker environment

#3245 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

is it just me, or does this game have the worst reflection from the backglass and dmd, you have ever seen??

Yup, when I LED-ed my back box, it was too much. Pulled half the LEDs, and the reflection is reasonable now and the back box is fine.

#3246 2 years ago

Hi all, I'm sure this is covered somewhere in this thread but I couldn't find it - I'm looking for instructions on how/where to install ChadH's ROM. Any help would be appreciated - thanks!

#3247 2 years ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

shouldn't get hot with led. Make sure contacts have a good connection, i.e no corrosion or loose wire. I would also make sure the wires on the led and socket are adjusted to properly touch the contacts as less metal = increased resistance. If the socket isn't holding the bulbs tight, it could be making less contact. Also maybe test the leds somewhere else or replace...they could be having an issue themselves.

LED's weren't the issue. I did notice though they were super bright compared to the same LEDs in the other sockets. Pulled out the multi-meter and found Yellow-Green is supplying 15.2v - 17.7v! I'm measuring 3-3.2v on the other lamp sockets. So that's a problem. What would cause Yellow-Green to be such high voltage? I've confirmed this voltage at the header pins on the CPU board without the connector attached. So that would make be believe I don't have a short long the yellow-green wire since its not plugged in. Any ideas?

I also checked my power supply board's test contacts:

12v = 11.5v
-12v = -14.7v
5v = 5.06v

#3248 2 years ago
Quoted from pin2d:

Hi all, I'm sure this is covered somewhere in this thread but I couldn't find it - I'm looking for instructions on how/where to install ChadH's ROM. Any help would be appreciated - thanks!

The CPU ROM can be found on the MPU board in the backbox at location C5.
The DISPLAY ROM can be found behind the DMD display in the backbox at location ROM0.

Turn off power to game when changing ROMs.
Be very careful when removing the old ROMs and inserting the new ROMs.
Make sure the ROMs are oriented correctly and make sure all the legs are correctly aligned with the sockets when inserting.
Installing new ROMs in your game will erase any high scores or game customizations. Be prepared to change any settings (such as enabling JP Adjustment 30 - Free Play) after you replace the ROMs.

#3249 2 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Make sure the ROMs are oriented correctly

Meaning the notch on the end of the chip faces the same way, not necessarily the way the label sticker faces.

#3250 2 years ago
Quoted from pin2d:

Hi all, I'm sure this is covered somewhere in this thread but I couldn't find it - I'm looking for instructions on how/where to install ChadH's ROM. Any help would be appreciated - thanks!

Courtesy of John Wart's Pinball Rom website 'That Pinball Place'.

http://www.thatpinballplace.com/documents/installing_eproms_de.html

Gord

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