(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



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#7901 21 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

OK, you have relays firing, not coils. Relays are typically controlled by data from the CPU. Which relays are clicking?

Sorry my bad.. Relay's firing off.

They all seem to be, it's like they are all going off one after the other yet the machine still plays just fine ???
I will be playing and they are just firing off every few seconds one at a time?

#7902 21 days ago
Quoted from jorro:

Check in the switch matrix what coils are fireing.
Sometimes it can be as simple as touching wires or a broken or shorting switch so it causes erratic behaviour.

All of them individually but constantly one after the other?

#7903 21 days ago
Quoted from Crafty:

Sorry my bad.. Relay's firing off.
They all seem to be, it's like they are all going off one after the other yet the machine still plays just fine ???
I will be playing and they are just firing off every few seconds one at a time?

I do think you mean coils. Which ones specifically?

Coils make a similar sound to gun shots or thunk sound, dependng on the coil. Relays make a clicking sound.

#7904 21 days ago

Ok I'm getting lost.... It is definitely the coils then and I would suggest it's all of them in no particular order that I can ascertain.....
It's definitely the thunking sounds as they fire off during Gameplay and immediately after the last ball then silence...

#7905 21 days ago
Quoted from Crafty:

Ok I'm getting lost.... It is definitely the coils then and I would suggest it's all of them in no particular order that I can ascertain.....
It's definitely the thunking sounds as they fire off during Gameplay and immediately after the last ball then silence...

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Like it's searching for a ball? If so, might be the leftmost switch in the ball trough acting up or loose wire.

I agree with the above That is the ball search. You should remove the balls out of the trough, go into the switch test, and then drop.the balls in.the trough to be sure all 6 balls register.

#7906 20 days ago
Quoted from Crafty:

It is definitely the coils

Simple Test - Does the bonus add up when the ball drains?? If not, the issue is the first switch in the drain.

#7907 20 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

I agree with the above That is the ball search. You should remove the balls out of the trough, go into the switch test, and then drop.the balls in.the trough to be sure all 6 balls register.

Ok I will do this.

? So even though it's in the middle of a game it will still go off on a ball search?

I have already ordered the replacement opto board for the ball trough. Mail to Aust is the issues at the moment. So in the mean time I have just received 6 new switches and will change them all out...

#7908 20 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Simple Test - Does the bonus add up when the ball drains?? If not, the issue is the first switch in the drain.

Yes it registers that the ball has drained and bonus ,but will look at all this again. Thank you for the info and ideas fellas

#7909 20 days ago
Quoted from Crafty:

? So even though it's in the middle of a game it will still go off on a ball search?

It can happen anytime during the game. So many seconds pass before it will try a ball search as the game is expecting a switch hit within a certain time after the last switch hit.

Quoted from Crafty:

So in the mean time I have just received 6 new switches and will change them all out...

This is what the switch test is for, to narrow down where the issue is. Why would you want to change them all out if only one is acting up? Good chance that only one needs to be adjusted.

#7910 20 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

It can happen anytime during the game. So many seconds pass before it will try a ball search as the game is expecting a switch hit within a certain time after the last switch hit.

This is what the switch test is for, to narrow down where the issue is. Why would you want to change them all out if only one is acting up? Good chance that only one needs to be adjusted.

I'm Irish? To Be sure, To Be sure

Actually In my limited experience, once I have the ball trough out it will be easier to replace them all and know that I have goo switches...
But will certainly look for the dodgy one first. Thx

#7911 20 days ago

My friend has a JP and is complaining at the start of a ball, the skill shot is intermittently skipped. Has anyone experienced this kind of problem?

#7912 20 days ago
Quoted from Phesson:

My friend has a JP and is complaining at the start of a ball, the skill shot is intermittently skipped. Has anyone experienced this kind of problem?

Does this only happen during Extra Ball and does he have the original ROMs in there? If yes to both of those then this is normal.

#7913 20 days ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Does this only happen during Extra Ball and does he have the original ROMs in there? If yes to both of those then this is normal.

Thanks Chad. He says he thinks it’s original and hasen’t noticed but will check.

#7914 20 days ago
Quoted from Phesson:

Thanks Chad. He says he thinks it’s original and hasen’t noticed but will check.

That (and a whole lot more) is fixed with this update:
https://www.pinballcode.com/jp6

#7915 20 days ago
Quoted from Crafty:

Ok I'm getting lost.... It is definitely the coils then and I would suggest it's all of them in no particular order that I can ascertain.....
It's definitely the thunking sounds as they fire off during Gameplay and immediately after the last ball then silence...

A video of this happening would help a lot with us being able to diagnose.

#7916 20 days ago
Quoted from Crafty:

I'm Irish? To Be sure, To Be sure
Actually In my limited experience, once I have the ball trough out it will be easier to replace them all and know that I have goo switches...
But will certainly look for the dodgy one first. Thx

You can cause more work for yourself by replacing them all, is my point. I had replaced one or 2 in games that needed to be replaced and I still had to end up adjusting the new switches.

#7917 20 days ago
Quoted from ChadH:

A video of this happening would help a lot with us being able to diagnose.

Will do, Thx

#7918 20 days ago

What kind of shameless plug is this?

Quoted from ChadH:

That (and a whole lot more) is fixed with this update:
https://www.pinballcode.com/jp6

Seriously, your work on JP is much appreciated and well-done - a must have for any JP owner. I highly recommend this code update from my firsthand experience with it in my pin, and it was one of the very first "mods" I did to my game when I purchased it. Heck, even if there weren't any other great updates to it, just the random starting mode is enough to make this game 10x more enjoyable.

#7919 20 days ago

I have a rottendog MPU board with built-in NVRAM. Got the high score on the machine a week ago. Turned it on today...high score was gone and it was back to the default scores (500,000,000 etc).

That's not supposed to happen, right? Any idea what could cause it?

#7920 20 days ago
Quoted from scootss:

I have a rottendog MPU board with built-in NVRAM. Got the high score on the machine a week ago. Turned it on today...high score was gone and it was back to the default scores (500,000,000 etc).
That's not supposed to happen, right? Any idea what could cause it?

Are you sure NVRAM? I have a RD board here and it clearly has a lithium battery pack on top of the ram chip. It even states as such on the outside of the package.

#7921 19 days ago
Quoted from scootss:

I have a rottendog MPU board with built-in NVRAM. Got the high score on the machine a week ago. Turned it on today...high score was gone and it was back to the default scores (500,000,000 etc).
That's not supposed to happen, right? Any idea what could cause it?

There is also an adjustment setting that will allow to reset the high scores every so often. It can be set to never reset.

#7922 19 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

There is also an adjustment setting that will allow to reset the high scores every so often. It can be set to never reset.

Yep, one of the changes I made when I acquired my JP was to disable high score reset.

#7923 19 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Are you sure NVRAM?

Yeah - New ones seem to have NVRAM. https://ksarcade.net/rottendog-mpu004-for-data-east.html

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

There is also an adjustment setting that will allow to reset the high scores every so often. It can be set to never reset.

That did it. Thank you. Adjustment 29 for posterity

Guess I'll just have to get #1 again!

#7924 17 days ago

Latest version of sign, might have something else planned when I get caught up.

20200623_174237 (resized).jpg
#7925 16 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yep, one of the changes I made when I acquired my JP was to disable high score reset.

I didn't know this was a thing... I only ever messed with 'Free Play' -- changed adjustment 29 last night.

Outta curiosity, are there any other adjustments people like to change on their own games?

#7926 16 days ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

I didn't know this was a thing... I only ever messed with 'Free Play' -- changed adjustment 29 last night.
Outta curiosity, are there any other adjustments people like to change on their own games?

Well, I guess it kind of depends. For me, the geek comes out whenever I get a new pin and I read the manual for all of the options and play around with them.

Some common ones might be attract model lighting and sound, # of balls, reset values of high scores, extra ball score values, push start during game to reset (if you're having a bad game and want to easily start over), what is rewarded for special (I usually set to free ball because what good is a free game for a home use pin), strength of coils, possible lighting modes, etc.

#7927 16 days ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Outta curiosity, are there any other adjustments people like to change on their own games?

I always note those I touch and keep a list in case the batteries die, I can quickly get things set again.

adjustment 49 attract music = off
adjustment 4 game awards = credit -> Extra ball -> special
adjustment 46 trex eat balls = yes
adjustment 6 limit extra balls 3 -> 0
adjustment 41 tournament => EXPO (resets audits)
adjustment 30 Free Play
audit 25 Show number of total plays

#7929 15 days ago

Any thoughts on a new power plug? I was moving my machine and notice the grounding plug of the 3 prongs is darn near about to fall out.

#7930 15 days ago

Replace the plug cap - its easy, and there's lots of instructions around here on how to do it safely. Just a couple of bucks to fix properly.

#7931 14 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Latest version of sign, might have something else planned when I get caught up.

There may be a market with the JP2 owners. I recently saw one with the Data East topper installed. I guess not all owners are excited about the $600 factory topper from Stern.

#7933 13 days ago

Thanks yall on the plug issue.

#7934 12 days ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Apologies to mr_tantrum — this was the pic that I noticed it for the first time:
Do many have this in their game? Is it standard?
mr_tantrum — did you add yours in?
[quoted image]

Does anyone know the part number for this post?
I do not have it between my in and outlane on the left (like many of you reported here) and I want to buy it.
Do you know the part number?

#7935 12 days ago
Quoted from Yaron:

Does anyone know the part number for this post?
I do not have it between my in and outlane on the left (like many of you reported here) and I want to buy it.
Do you know the part number?

Closest thing I can find is this one for Stern games. Someone is going to have to do the research to see if it is the same size as what is used in DE JP.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5004-01

#7936 12 days ago

I have a small switch issue - left outer loop lower switch isn't working - it's basically either stuck down (always triggered) or if I try and adjust it, stuck up in such away that the ball wouldn't push it down and instead bounces off it.

Seems like the wire itself is bent. Can I fix/re-bend it? Or just replace? And if so...it looks like different shops sell the same part number with different styles.

https://www.pinballlife.com/sternsegadata-east-rollover-switch-assembly-left.html

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5142-00

All my switches look to be the round, pinball life style...should I replace like for like? Or is the angled one an improved design?

#7937 11 days ago
Quoted from Yaron:

Does anyone know the part number for this post?
I do not have it between my in and outlane on the left (like many of you reported here) and I want to buy it.
Do you know the part number?

Here is one that I bought and put in: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5004-00

#7938 9 days ago

I am having an issue with my machine and I have exhausted myself trying to sort it out. I keep blowing the F5 fuse and Q3 transistor the are for the vertical up kicker.

I have replaced the transistor a few times now and it happens every time I power up with the coil connected.

I have removed the PPB board and checked all related diodes and resistors and it all checks out fine. I re-floated all solder points just to be sure.

I have removed the CPU board and checked all diodes and resistors and it all checks out fine. I re-floated all solder points just to be sure.

I have checked the coil and coil diode and they checked out fine but i still tried a new coil and it still happens.

I have cut the loom zip ties and checked of any melted / shorted wires and have found nothing.

I have checked every component under the playfield to check for any thing bridging connections, and nothing was found.

When I disconnect the vertical kicker coil the F5 fuse and the Q3 do not blow at power up.

All things noted below are done after I un-soldered the coil.

All switches test correctly and properly register in the test mode.

I can cycle the coil test mode and when it get to the vert kicker coil it will cycle thru it and not blow because the coil is disconnected.

When I connect a volt meter to the coil wires and as soon as I power on the machine the voltage bounces all over the place for some reason.

Any ideas or suggestions as to why the voltage is going crazy to it when I power up?

#7939 9 days ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

I am having an issue with my machine and I have exhausted myself trying to sort it out. I keep blowing the F5 fuse and Q3 transistor the are for the vertical up kicker.
I have replaced the transistor a few times now and it happens every time I power up with the coil connected.
I have removed the PPB board and checked all related diodes and resistors and it all checks out fine. I re-floated all solder points just to be sure.
I have removed the CPU board and checked all diodes and resistors and it all checks out fine. I re-floated all solder points just to be sure.
I have checked the coil and coil diode and they checked out fine but i still tried a new coil and it still happens.
I have cut the loom zip ties and checked of any melted / shorted wires and have found nothing.
I have checked every component under the playfield to check for any thing bridging connections, and nothing was found.
When I disconnect the vertical kicker coil the F5 fuse and the Q3 do not blow at power up.
All things noted below are done after I un-soldered the coil.
All switches test correctly and properly register in the test mode.
I can cycle the coil test mode and when it get to the vert kicker coil it will cycle thru it and not blow because the coil is disconnected.
When I connect a volt meter to the coil wires and as soon as I power on the machine the voltage bounces all over the place for some reason.
Any ideas or suggestions as to why the voltage is going crazy to it when I power up?

First off, I was the one who originally caused the issue. I soldered the diode onto the coil backwards. So make sure that's correct first. And here's the not so fun part.
In the process of soldering it backwards, it blew through pretty much every component on the boards connected to that VUK. I had to get very familiar with the schematics. And after replacing components here and there, and them going bad again, I just said F-it, and replaced every single component in the line that is connected to the VUK. So the MOSFET's on the CPU board, and everything on the PCB board. I will say that once you get into the schematics and start understanding it, it becomes a lot easier to read. Even tells you the value of components you need for the board. So i created a grocery list and just bought everything I needed.

Unfortunately, I can't help you with specifics. But if you still currently have a fuse blowing, suggestion of individual pieces did not work for me. Even when checking parts with a multimeter, they seemed to read fine for me. Only the whole suite of parts connected to the VUK replaced all at one time.

Since doing that, I've had zero issues with it.

#7940 9 days ago

dupe

#7941 9 days ago
Quoted from woody24:

First off, I was the one who originally caused the issue. I soldered the diode onto the coil backwards. So make sure that's correct first. And here's the not so fun part.
In the process of soldering it backwards, it blew through pretty much every component on the boards connected to that VUK. I had to get very familiar with the schematics. And after replacing components here and there, and them going bad again, I just said F-it, and replaced every single component in the line that is connected to the VUK. So the MOSFET's on the CPU board, and everything on the PCB board. I will say that once you get into the schematics and start understanding it, it becomes a lot easier to read. Even tells you the value of components you need for the board. So i created a grocery list and just bought everything I needed.
Unfortunately, I can't help you with specifics. But if you still currently have a fuse blowing, suggestion of individual pieces did not work for me. Even when checking parts with a multimeter, they seemed to read fine for me. Only the whole suite of parts connected to the VUK replaced all at one time.
Since doing that, I've had zero issues with it.

leading up to this issue i actually did nothing. No alterations, no soldering, nothing. I think i checked everything related to it on the cpu board but i will carefully check again. All transistors checked out but maybe i should just replace the related ones on the cpu board and see what happens.

#7942 9 days ago
Quoted from woody24:

First off, I was the one who originally caused the issue. I soldered the diode onto the coil backwards. So make sure that's correct first. And here's the not so fun part.
In the process of soldering it backwards, it blew through pretty much every component on the boards connected to that VUK. I had to get very familiar with the schematics. And after replacing components here and there, and them going bad again, I just said F-it, and replaced every single component in the line that is connected to the VUK. So the MOSFET's on the CPU board, and everything on the PCB board. I will say that once you get into the schematics and start understanding it, it becomes a lot easier to read. Even tells you the value of components you need for the board. So i created a grocery list and just bought everything I needed.
Unfortunately, I can't help you with specifics. But if you still currently have a fuse blowing, suggestion of individual pieces did not work for me. Even when checking parts with a multimeter, they seemed to read fine for me. Only the whole suite of parts connected to the VUK replaced all at one time.
Since doing that, I've had zero issues with it.

I have found the schematics for this machine out of all of machines this one is somewhat awkward and hard to follow easily.

#7943 8 days ago

Here is a problem I just had with my Jurassic Park, I figured I would share here to help others:

Turned on the power and only had GI lights, and noted a slight acrid smell, so I turned it off quickly.

Checked the voltages on the power supply board in the backbox at the test points and found the 5vdc was ~2vdc, and noted whenever the power was on, I could smell the acrid smell in the backbox so I only left it on briefly to take measurements. (also the +12vdc was a little low, which makes sense, since the +12 is used in the 5v circuit)

I made some colored highlights on power supply drawing to follow what goes where.
Orange is the AC input.
Pink is the -12v rectifier output
Green is the +12v rectifier output
Blue is the output of the 5v regulator (IC1)
Red is the output of the 5v driver (TR5) after the regulator which is supplied by the +12v.
Purple was a mark I made next to each cap after checking it with my ESR meter.

Checking online, it was reported that a bad C2 will affect the 5v, but my C2 was previously replaced and tested good.

power supply 3 (resized).png

After confirming the Power supply board appeared good, I checked the 5v with the output cables CN5 and then CN6 unplugged and found the 5v was normal with CN6 unplugged which is CN17 at the CPU board. Likewise with CN6 connected and CN17 unplugged from the CPU board, the 5v was Ok.

With all cables disconnected from the CPU board it still loaded down the 5v when CN17 was connected, so the problem appeared to be on the CPU board.

There is only one electrolytic cap on the CPU board, C157, and the acrid smell appeared to be from that area. C157 tested OK with my ESR meter but when I removed it, I could see it was burned on the under side, and it smelled burned.

Replaced C157: 25v 470uF, and now the 5v measures 4.8v which I read is a typical value and everything is working with no issues. Back to C.H.A.O.S. as usual.

#7944 7 days ago

I just recently got into pinball. DEJP was the first Pin I purchased. I recently had the armor and wire forms powder coated. I think it turned out pretty nice and I’m happy with the results. Let me know what you guys think?

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#7945 7 days ago
Quoted from 03whtlightning:

I just recently got into pinball. DEJP was the first Pin I purchased. I recently had the armor and wire forms powder coated. I think it turned out pretty nice and I’m happy with the results. Let me know what you guys think?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks really good. I am a real fan of the green wire forms

#7946 7 days ago

Magically my kicker worked after I re checked and once again Re floated all cpu board.

It was back up and running so I continued with my work.

Finished all the final playfield reinstall of parts after it was torn down for a very good clean.

All new plastics, led lights, new rubbers and plastic posts. All plastic bold down nuts replaced with coloured nylon ones, all metal parts were also polished to a mirror finish.

Pops removed and all new parts installed along with rebuilt flippers. left scoop removed and installed thick Mylar on the bottom and sides in the belly of it. Now when the ball drops in it’s a quiet thud and not a loud clank.

#7947 7 days ago

I found the lower center Playfield area quite dark with the game room lights down low. I added a lamp reflector above each slingshot and 2 lamp reflectors just below the ball gate from the shooter lane.

What a big difference.

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#7948 7 days ago

Also planted a few trees.

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#7949 5 days ago

Working on a few issues in my DE Jurassic Pari

1-balls don't reliable kick out into the shooter lane. Sometimes will take 1 try, others 5.

2-"a" scoop only registers slow shots. Faster ones don't. I'm assuming just a slight switch adjustment but which way

Added today:

Was able to get switch functioning properly by replacement and installation of rubber pad in Subway.

Replacing the VUK plunger fixed ball trough issues

#7950 5 days ago
Quoted from Jeffswack:

Working on a few issues in my DE Jurassic Pari
1-balls don't reliable kick out into the shooter lane. Sometimes will take 1 try, others 5.
2-"a" scoop only registers slow shots. Faster ones don't. I'm assuming just a slight switch adjustment but which way

1- adjusting the switch at the end of the ball trough fixed this issue for me. If you’re still having issues after adjusting it, you should replace the switch entirely. The coil sleeve in the kick out may need to be replaced as well.

2- The A switch looks like a half circle and is attached to a small subway under the playfield. The switch either needs to be adjusted up/right slightly or the subway might just be loose and need to be retightened.

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