(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,150 posts
  • 416 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by jamex
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,653 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_3100 (resized).JPG
IMG_3099 (resized).JPG
IMG_3096 (resized).JPG
IMG_3097 (resized).JPG
IMG_3095 (resized).JPG
IMG_3094 (resized).JPG
IMG_3093 (resized).JPG
IMG_3092 (resized).JPG
IMG_3470 (resized).jpeg
20191113_193626 (resized).jpg
jp-rubbers (resized).PNG
15731544016047818554563461197544 (resized).jpg
15731543029144165323966519385247 (resized).jpg
E309E618-4A50-4AA8-A796-FD7D507193B2 (resized).jpeg
3930A69B-6CA8-4AC1-AA6F-EE7EB5D3E906 (resized).jpeg
CC1D61D4-533D-4962-BD7B-0E172596ED56 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7150 posts in this topic. You are on page 29 of 143.
#1401 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

That switch diode seems to be a common issue - must see a lot of shock with the ball hitting that scoop so often. Mine was broken when I got this machine (actually was ~attached with come sort of conductive epoxy or something - odd). Last week, I had to re-repair the broken solder joint at this same location - my old solder repair from 2000 had failed.
Previously, I had just tacked the loose diode end onto the solder connection. This last time, I removed all the solder from that switch lead and passed the diode end thru the hole before soldering back on. Hopefully the last time I visit that connection.

Isn't this where you can put a big glob of hot glue over that switch lead after soldering to help reduce vibration? You may be aware that later production JPs actually moved the diodes from those switches off the switch itself onto a stand alone assembly mounted to the playfield because of this issue.

#1402 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Crash, this uses just 5V/12V vs high voltage like the DMD, right? I was thinking of going this route when the HV leg of my power supply went bad. I chose the more direct route of replacing the supply for ~$100. DMD was fine.
I really like the color pallet you picked. Looks great!

Correct, no high voltage at all involved. It will work if your high voltage power supply is out. Where did you find a board that cheap? Is it a Rottendog?

#1403 4 years ago
Quoted from NFK:

Another thing I noticed is that the raptor ball save isn't active in super egg mania at all. Is this on purpose to punish a missed shot cause the raptor is so close to the egg? It makes me want to play the mode less.

I think raptor pit ball save is not active for any multiball. Including Raptor 2-Ball. This is how the game has always been.

#1404 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

I think raptor pit ball save is not active for any multiball. Including Raptor 2-Ball. This is how the game has always been.

You're right. I didn't noticed the mode as multiball at all, cause I lost the ball befor the other came out of the bunker so it never was a multiball.

#1405 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

As Pimp77 said, the diode and tab is broken off. So there's your problem. Sucks that the switch is probably still good, but don't have a good enough contact to solder back onto. So yeah, you'll need a new switch.

Thanks all for your help. Now to source a new switch and diode. Is someone able to take a photo of this switch when they get a chance and post it up so I can see how it is supposed to be hooked up?

Thanks all.

#1406 4 years ago
Quoted from phollibone:

Is someone able to take a photo of this switch when they get a chance and post it up so I can see how it is supposed to be hooked up?
Thanks all.

I would because I'm currently working under the playfield on mine, but that switch on mine is coated in a rubbery foam concealing what the wires are actually hooked up to. Guessing they had the same problem, and didn't want it to happen again.

But actually, it will be very similar to the one to the left of it. Basicly, if you take a look at it now, I believe all you'd need to do is take the broken end of the diode, and swing it over to the far right side, like the left switch on that subway.

#1407 4 years ago

Can I ask a favor, please?

My JP is blowing F1 on the PPB at start-up.

PPB J5 Connector:

F1, Pins 4 & 9 < Playfield (blown fuse)
F2, Pins 3 & 7 < Backbox Door
F3, Pins 2 & 6 < Playfield & Coin Door
F4, Pins 1 & 5 < Backbox Door
Pin 8 - no connection/key

With the J5 connector pulled, I am reading continuity between what should be unrelated downstream legs. Example: Between Pins 3 & 4, and others. Am I wrong to expect these fuse legs NOT to share continuity (when not connected to the PPB)?

Can someone pull J5 on the PPB and test for continuity between Pins 3 & 4?

Thanks!

#1408 4 years ago

F1-F4 on the PPB are all for the general illumination. So there is going to be continuity between the pins as they are the AC output from the transformer, they run through a fuse, then out to the rest of the game. You most likely have a short somewhere after fuse F1. If I'm reading my schematics correctly, fuse F1 goes to pin 9 on PPB connector J5. This is the white/violet wire that then goes to the playfield. So look for problems on the white/violet string on the PF.

#1409 4 years ago

Thanks stangbat. So, continuity is via the transformer AC output even with connector J5 removed from PPB?

Yep, the white/violet wire on the playfield string.

#1410 4 years ago

The GI issue is sorted out. There was a broken connection and short on the Wht/Vio wire to a pair of lamps under the subway. I re-soldered the wire to the correct lamp pad and fired it up. I had no 5A fuses left, so I used a 3A; did not blow. Nice!

The other half of this string, from the power supply board (CN8, Pin 9, purple wire) would account for the continuity across the GI branches (presuming).

Learning more and more each time I get my hands dirty (really dirty) on this machine!

Thanks for the assistance.

#1411 4 years ago
Quoted from phollibone:

Thanks all for your help. Now to source a new switch and diode. Is someone able to take a photo of this switch when they get a chance and post it up so I can see how it is supposed to be hooked up?

Below are pix from my JP, and the bunker looks like yours (except for the hot glue!) but the control room does not have a diode and has two additional wires. Mine does work - do you have a couple of loose wires in the vicinity? Or maybe mine is hacked?

bunker switch.JPG
control room switch.JPG

#1412 4 years ago

My Bunker & Control Room switches BOTH have a diode across the leads.

I have repaired the Control Room diode 2-3 times over the years (broken solder joint). When the diode is not properly attached, Control Room does not properly acknowledge the ball. Last repair I passed the diode wire thru the hole in the switch's lead, then soldered. Hopefully that's the last repair on that one.

#1413 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

My Bunker & Control Room switches BOTH have a diode across the leads.

For the control room, do you have the same three white wires as mine and I am just missing the diode? Maybe this explains why sometimes my control room switch doesn't register the ball. Perhaps, to followup phollibone's request, someone could post yet another picture of this switch? Thanks.

#1414 4 years ago

Looks to be slightly different hook-up between us on the Control Room switch; just a single Wht/Grn wire here. Interesting.

11-11-2015 4-28-47 PM.png

#1415 4 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

Below are pix from my JP, and the bunker looks like yours (except for the hot glue!) but the control room does not have a diode and has two additional wires. Mine does work - do you have a couple of loose wires in the vicinity? Or maybe mine is hacked?
bunker switch.JPG
control room switch.JPG

I would say that's hacked.

Quoted from markp99:

Looks to be slightly different hook-up between us on the Control Room switch; just a single Wht/Grn wire here. Interesting.
11-11-2015 4-28-47 PM.png

That looks right.

#1416 4 years ago

Wow, thanks. So it is obvious which wires are the hack, but what the heck should I do with them once disconnected from the switch?

#1417 4 years ago

Where do your "extra" wires originate from? My single wire comes from this nearby connector:

11-11-2015 4-56-07 PM.png

#1418 4 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

Wow, thanks. So it is obvious which wires are the hack, but what the heck should I do with them once disconnected from the switch?

Well, I'd trace them back and see where they go. There should be a diode in there. Maybe you have an early prototype or something where it was done differently?

#1419 4 years ago

Here's a guess:

That diode connection sees a lot of shock (note my 3 repairs on this joint since 2000). Maybe someone just hung the diode remotely across the 2 extra wires on the outside legs of the switch as a form of shock relief.

Dunno?

#1420 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Here's a guess:
That diode connection sees a lot of shock (note my 3 repairs on this joint since 2000). Maybe someone just hung the diode remotely across the 2 extra wires on the outside legs of the switch as a form of shock relief.
Dunno?

That's my thought too.

#1421 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

That diode connection sees a lot of shock (note my 3 repairs on this joint since 2000). Maybe someone just hung the diode remotely across the 2 extra wires on the outside legs of the switch as a form of shock relief.

markp99 and Pimp77 - you win the prize! I traced it and found exactly what you described. Those two extra wires off the switch go to this connector with the diode. The two wires on the right get buried in the mass of wires that pass by, so not sure how to trace those. Since this uses wires with what appear to be original markings, do you think this might be an original setup and not a hack?

Off_switch_diode.jpg

#1422 4 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

markp99 and Pimp77 - you win the prize! I traced it and found exactly what you described. Those two extra wires off the switch go to this connector with the diode. The two wires on the right get buried in the mass of wires that pass by, so not sure how to trace those. Since this uses wires with what appear to be original markings, do you think this might be an original setup and not a hack?

Off_switch_diode.jpg

Possible. That setup is actually better than the original since it eliminates the chance of vibration breaking the diodes legs again. Id call it an improvement, not a hack.

#1423 4 years ago

It's possible the change was in a service bulletin?

edit: found a service bulletin that mentions something similar!!! Bulletin #43.

http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb43.pdf

#1424 4 years ago

That svc bulletin explains the globs of silicone I found on both diodes.

#1425 4 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

You may be aware that later production JPs actually moved the diodes from those switches off the switch itself onto a stand alone assembly mounted to the playfield because of this issue.

#1426 4 years ago

Thanks for all this information, glad to know I have the "upgrade".

#1427 4 years ago
Quoted from koops:

found a service bulletin that mentions something similar!!! Bulletin #43.

Guess I have the fix as well. But my entire switch is encased with it. I thought about replacing the switch just to clean it up, but looks like I should just leave it alone.

#1428 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

You've updated your game with the new 6.00 code and you are loving it?... then go update your rating!
https://pinside.com/pinball/archive/jurassic-park/ratings

Also, if you love the code and haven't already done it, don't forget to make a donation here. www.pinballcode.com

#1429 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Possible. That setup is actually better than the original since it eliminates the chance of vibration breaking the diodes legs again. Id call it an improvement, not a hack.

That's stock, actually. DE started moving it on the later games of the run because of the vibration issue. Mine is like that too, it was a late run machine.

#1430 4 years ago

Does anyone know where to get the metal plate / shield that goes between the DMD Display and the controller board? I picked up a project games that's missing. Here is a picture of what I am looking for.

WP_20151115_001.jpg

#1431 4 years ago

Success getting my top-right flipper working. I replaced the TIP36C, 1N4004 & 47Ohm resistor on the F3 leg of the flipper board.

There had been some previous repairs on this section, with obvious large & nasty solder globs. I sucked away the old solder and noticed 2 of the 3 legs of the TIP36C landing had no hint of a solder pad remaining. I decided to bend the legs of the TIP36C flat to the board and soldered them to the traces. No at all pretty, but functional.

Happy this repair did the trick for me.

#1432 4 years ago

New question for JP owners. As I was making the above repair I found a note written on a piece of masking tape on a pair of clipped wires tucked under the harness in the lower left front of the cabinet. The note said, "To knocker coil striped side".

Is there supposed to be a knocker in this game? I found a reference on pg 41 of the manual, but I am not sure where this would have been attached.

Any pointers? Worth adding? I've been clueless on this feature since getting this game in 2000 (though mostly in storage since 2005), and never missed it.

#1433 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

New question for JP owners. As I was making the above repair I found a note written on a piece of masking tape on a pair of clipped wires tucked under the harness in the lower left front of the cabinet. The note said, "To knocker coil striped side".
Is there supposed to be a knocker in this game? I found a reference on pg 41 of the manual, but I am not sure where this would have been attached.
Any pointers? Worth adding? I've been clueless on this feature since getting this game in 2000 (though mostly in storage since 2005), and never missed it.

Yes, there's a knocker. It's in the cabinet bottom, not the head.

#1434 4 years ago

And it sucks. So quiet. I moved mine to make it louder. If you're putting in a new one I'd try putting it in the head like B/W titles for a satisfying knocker sound.

#1435 4 years ago

Where in the bottom would have this been located?

#1436 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Where in the bottom would have this been located?

Just behind the cash box hitting the back of that divider piece of wood. If you look, you should see screw holes, if not the metal piece the knocker hits.

#1437 4 years ago

OK, I see it. The metal strike plate is still there - I had wondered what that plate was for... I may add it back.

#1438 4 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

And it sucks. So quiet. I moved mine to make it louder. If you're putting in a new one I'd try putting it in the head like B/W titles for a satisfying knocker sound.

I replaced the core on mine because I thought that maybe it became quiet over time. Nope. Just quiet in general. My Laser War had a knocker in the upper right of the head, so DE used to have them up there at one point.

#1439 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I replaced the core on mine because I thought that maybe it became quiet over time. Nope. Just quiet in general. My Laser War had a knocker in the upper right of the head, so DE used to have them up there at one point.

I think if you just turned it so it was striking the cabinet rather than the cash box divider, it would help a lot. Solid wood vs flimsy wood.

#1440 4 years ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Does anyone know where to get the metal plate / shield that goes between the DMD Display and the controller board? I picked up a project games that's missing. Here is a picture of what I am looking for.
WP_20151115_001.jpg

You can probably pick up one of those galvanized flashing squares at Home Depot or Lowes and cut it to shape. just make sure to file the edges so they aren't razor sharp.

#1441 4 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

I think if you just turned it so it was striking the cabinet rather than the cash box divider, it would help a lot.

This does help. But one thing you are fighting with the DE knockers is they are 20v. WMS used 50v. The location of WMS knockers is one reason they sound so great, the other reason is they powered them with enough kick to really make them whack. You're not going to get a DE knocker to sound right unless you power it with 50v.

#1442 4 years ago

I put in the new roms Saturday, they're absolutely fantastic. While playing to check out the roms and for the first time since owning the machine - I hit system failure!

#1443 4 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

This does help. But one thing you are fighting with the DE knockers is they are 20v. WMS used 50v. The location of WMS knockers is one reason they sound so great, the other reason is they powered them with enough kick to really make them whack. You're not going to get a DE knocker to sound right unless you power it with 50v.

Believe it or not, the Laser War knocker sounds just like a WMS knocker.

#1444 4 years ago

I put my version 4 roms back in and the t rex eats the ball. I love the new roms,but i also love having trex eat the ball. Any suggestions?

#1445 4 years ago
Quoted from gamera9:

I put my version 4 roms back in and the t rex eats the ball. I love the new roms,but i also love having trex eat the ball. Any suggestions?

I had the same problem. I disabled the LR rotate till I have time to test the switches. I think it has something to do with updates after v4. Not the new roms. He pivots and moves slower after v4. And I think your switches are wearing out and are used to more of a faster and wider rotation. If TREX is not on center he will not work. As well if he is not on up switch he won't eat etc. Turning off LR and putting him on center via tezt he at least works most of the time.

#1446 4 years ago

Installed some Cliffy Posts Rubbers this weekend, and it pretty much eliminated all jumping air balls. I had some wicked flights with some balls too. But the Cliffy Posts deaden the shot significantly. Kinda wish it bounced off a little more, but will take this over what it was doing before with the Super Band posts.

Just thought I'd let people know that there is a major difference, incase they are getting the same results with Super Bands.

#1447 4 years ago

What is the best way and which connector should I use to replace this somewhat burnt one that is going to the backbox lights? The top half of the back box lights are bright and the bottom half are dim so I am assuming the connector is the issue. I have already replaced the power supply with a new Rottendog one.

WP_20151119_002.jpg

#1448 4 years ago

I would use Molex connector, and trifurcons, I had some connector issues when i bought my JP, and the lights in backbox were off or unstable. Tried IDC and punch tool but was hopeless, so I just bought new molex connectors, trifurcons and it works like a charm.

Are you familiar with how trifurcon and molex work?

#1449 4 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

I would use Molex connector, and trifurcons, I had some connector issues when i bought my JP, and the lights in backbox were off or unstable. Tried IDC and punch tool but was hopeless, so I just bought new molex connectors, trifurcons and it works like a charm.
Are you familiar with how trifurcon and molex work?

In my case, this connector on mine was hacked. Or rather, soldered in. My backbox works perfectly. But my Flashers on the top of the head dont work, as well the flasher behind mosquito. In addition, all 3 lights on the top are always on. Not sure where to start. I may just use 12v LED strips synced with the backbox flashers to the topper flashers and be done with it. I think that will be almost the same thing.

#1450 4 years ago

Restoration of my project pickup continues. Does anyone know where the disconnected purple wire goes(Circled in Yellow)? It looks like it was spliced with the white/green strip wire. I am thinking it connects straight behind it (where arrow is pointing) on the switch with the green wire(on the right side of it). Can someone post a picture of this area for me or confirm?

Thanks

WP_20151119_005.jpg

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 7,499.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
$ 90.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 29.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
$ 40.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
There are 7150 posts in this topic. You are on page 29 of 143.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside