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(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8,331 posts
  • 471 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by SkyKing2301
  • Topic is favorited by 197 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 8331 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 167.
#201 5 years ago

I brought one home last night. No topper & needs a bunch o'love. Neglected for 15 yrs. Done by X-mas...that's the plan. For $850 I couldn't pass it up.

#202 5 years ago

nice pickup. congrats.

#203 5 years ago

sweet

#204 5 years ago

This is my "Barn Find". Previous owner bought it with the house. It might be HOU, but I'm not sure. No signs of being on route. Manual was never opened, #s match. Only 1972 plays on it. I know he didn't reset it because he didn't know how. Never serviced. The cab is almost perfect. PF cleaned up beautifully, no ball tracks. Had to replace some burnt connections, coil sleeves, & re-solder the slings. No errors or acid damage. Fresh LED's & rubber all around. Need to adjust Rex. Found $1.25 in the coin box. So it cost me $848.75 + gas & beer.
IM000447.JPGjp1.jpgjp2.jpgDSCN0589.JPG

#205 5 years ago

Wow! I'll give you an even 900.00 for it!

(you knew that was coming). Great find indeed.

#206 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Just replaced the captive ball with a ceramic one. I like it. Now it looks more like an egg.

Dos it make the shot easier?

#207 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

DropTarget said:
Just replaced the captive ball with a ceramic one. I like it. Now it looks more like an egg.

Dos it make the shot easier?

No, but now I stand next to the machine and stare at it, as it's tough to see with all the glare from the DMD.

I do like the way it looks. I think it's more appropriate for the theme than the silver ball was.

my 2¢

#208 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

No, but now I stand next to the machine and stare at it, as it's tough to see with all the glare from the DMD.
I do like the way it looks. I think it's more appropriate for the theme than the silver ball was.
my 2¢

I think the flyer has a ceramic ball, correct me if im wrong. It does make more sense for sure, i was just curious.

#209 5 years ago

Time to pay my dues & give back to the community. Custom cards for your JP. Enjoy!
JPCARDS.pdf

#210 5 years ago

They look good! But here's a tip for you and all other card makers: don't simply copy and paste the text from the original instruction cards. It's not always correct. In this case , the dual jackpot part.

#211 5 years ago

Please enlighten me. What should it read? Thanks in advance.

#212 5 years ago

You only have to score one of the two jackpots to start chaos. For super jackpots, I'm not even sure if they're both lit, I don't get there often enough to know!

#213 5 years ago

Do you know what this world needs? A better replacement for the Gate that goes on the ramp!

There is so much room for improvement here.

Has anyone come up with a better alternative?

image-25.jpg

#214 5 years ago

I replaced the bulb condoms with these from Comet. They look like torches when lit.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smdfan.htm
DSCN0590.JPG

#215 5 years ago

I've got one for you. In diagnostics T-rex test. If I hit the right flipper Rex turns left. Hold the left flipper and he turns left. WTF? Any ideas? All switches have power & turn off/on manually. The module under the playfield is buzzing loudly whenever I hit the right flipper.

EDIT: Found replacement relays. Got some de-soldering to do. Nevermind.

#216 5 years ago

Just finish it up and put in the line up. Now time to play the s&*T out of it. Led's all from comet. Like the pop lights.

DSC05222.JPG DSC05221.JPG
#217 5 years ago

What color did you use?

Bob C

Quoted from Pinballocks:

I replaced the bulb condoms with these from Comet. They look like torches when lit.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smdfan.htm

DSCN0590.JPG 189 KB

#218 5 years ago

Red, just like the condoms. I got my T-Rex working today. Now I can mod it.

#219 5 years ago

I just put my JP up for sale just in case you're in the club but are looking for one:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-de-jurassic-park-1750-can-take-to-fpf

#220 5 years ago

Can anyone with a JP measure the width of the cabinet in the back. I just need to finish my DE sticker set and just want to make sure my stickers are accurate.
Thanks

#221 5 years ago

Does 22" sound right?

#222 5 years ago

Most are 24 unless you mean the back box
What exactly are you needing to have measured?

#223 5 years ago

Hi,

I'm trying to change some lamps under the left side plastics (the one about 1/2 way up the playfield, that the strobe is attached to) and under the plastic over the raptor pit.

Is there an easy way to get to those sockets, without taking the ramp off?

Thanks

#224 5 years ago

DT
I just changed those out myself. I pulled the PF forward putting the support brackets in the cab channel & picked up the back of the PF so that it cleared the cabinet. I propped it up from behind. There is room. I used the cardboard tube from the stretch wrap I use to secure my pins during a move. I is a 2 person job.

#225 5 years ago

<----- Confused.

So, do the ramps have to come off, or can you get to the sockets from under the playfield? I noticed some sockets are held on with a nut, while others, the one's I want to get to, are soldered on.

#226 5 years ago

No I did not remove the ramp just the plastic.

#227 5 years ago

Thanks

#228 5 years ago

Dear fellow JP clubbers!
I have some questions, Ill start with nr 1, which is usually the best number to start with.
MY JP does not have any support brackets letting the playfield rest halfway out on the cabinet (bally/sega/Williams-style). I have attached a picture of the playfield. Is this normal, or could some former owner been a smart-ass and removed for some other games or something?

bilde.JPG
#229 5 years ago

Question (or observation) #2:
Earlier in this thread I made a post about my new JP I am fixing. MAIN pain in the ass is the raptor kickback blowing transistors. From the start the raptor coil had melted, and Q4 was dead, Q30 tested fine on the board.A short summary:

1. We soldered on a brand new coil coming with a diode on, soldered the wires on the correct side.
2. Soldered on a new Q4. Started the game, the coil locked on some seconds then retracted the plunger, as if on test. It smelled as if something burnt, but the coil was fine.
3. Q4 was dead again. But since the coil did not lock (ie not burning)on when starting the game again, we played for maybe 15 mins just checking how the game felt without the kickback.
4. When I started going over the game again yesterday, some weeks later,I was going to fix other stuff and do the raptor later since it didnt hurt playing without it for now. But I opened the backbox to find the ppb like this (see attached pictures). The R16 completely burnt and melted, leaving an ugly black trail up to the fuse F5,but it seems mostly cosmetical. Q4 looked as it had burnt even more, though being dead.

On further inspection, and a big note to self, "check all fuses". F6 (for the raptor/50V coils) had 5A, should be 4A. F7 and F9 had...wait for it 12A and 13A, should be 3A and 4A (if i remember correct). Fixed the fuses.

Can anyone explain or have theory on how the dead Q4 can continue burning and melting the R16 also, when the coil still is fine and not melted/melting? Can the F6 fuse that had 5A be so strong compared to 4A that it did not break when it should, and therefore allowing the voltage to continue grinding onto Q4 and R16?

Todo: If the ppb can be saved, have someone solder on the dead components (R16,D18,Q4) and also a new Q30 on the cpu board even though it tests fine. New fuses are correct rating, and the coil/diode seems fine. The J7 connector has no burn marks. Have to trace the cables all the way. If it after all this is done still not work...new rottendog board....:/

PPB closer toast.JPG PPB back toast.JPG
#230 5 years ago

Looks like you're missing the small support brackets that DE used.

You can get replacements, or even use the larger B/W or Stern style from here:

http://www.mantisamusements.com/bracketsupport.htm

RM

#231 5 years ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Looks like you're missing the small support brackets that DE used.
You can get replacements, or even use the larger B/W or Stern style from here:
http://www.mantisamusements.com/bracketsupport.htm
RM

JP is supposed to have support brackets from the factory!? Where are they supposed to be? I don't think mine has them either. I see the DE style on that link. Interesting...

Edit: Here's a high-res pic of the underside of the JP playfield. I see the brackets about half way down the first light bank PCB close to the edges.
http://remote.kiwi.gen.nz/JP2/jpUnderPlayfield.jpg

#232 5 years ago

Thanks Russ, I sent them an email, cause there was no apparent webshop. Would be great to have some brackets, so it wont be so hard on the VUK coil

#233 5 years ago

Can it be confirmed that the "correct" raptor kick coil is AE 23-800? It seems according to the manual schematic that knocker/kickback is the same..?

#234 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Thanks Russ, I sent them an email, cause there was no apparent webshop. Would be great to have some brackets, so it wont be so hard on the VUK coil

They're apparently available at Marco's: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-0005-00

#235 5 years ago

True. Although Marco sells them for 19.95 $ for each it seems, while from mantis it was 20 $ for the pair.

#236 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

True. Although Marco sells them for 19.95 $ for each it seems, while from mantis it was 20 $ for the pair.

Ah, much better price then! I was probably going to continue to live without them at 40 for a pair...

I can't tell for sure from the under playfield pics, but are they secured with bolts coming down through the top of the pf to the bottom and nuts are on the bottom?

I just checked my pf and I don't see holes or threaded rods sticking through that would have secured supports had they been installed at the factory. I do see a few dimples around the area I think the supports are supposed to be, but no idea if they were for screwing in supports.

#237 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Not much to see yet, but below is some small pics of before cleaning and after a quick initial cleaning:

I notice your t-rex doesn't have a front in the pic you posted. Is it just removed for cleaning?

Would you be willing to post a close-up of the very bottom front of the t-rex without the front piece installed? I've removed mine so many times I can't remember how the horizontal spring at the bottom is supposed to be installed.

#238 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Ah, much better price then! I was probably going to continue to live without them at 40 for a pair...
I can't tell for sure from the under playfield pics, but are they secured with bolts coming down through the top of the pf to the bottom and nuts are on the bottom?
I just checked my pf and I don't see holes or threaded rods sticking through that would have secured supports had they been installed at the factory. I do see a few dimples around the area I think the supports are supposed to be, but no idea if they were for screwing in supports.

Between the pic you posted and the pic on Mantis' website, it looks like there's two possible locations that they were installed. It also looks like they were just screwed in from the bottom, which is apparently why they always just ripped off. Thanks Russ for posting that link, I don't think mine has brackets either.

#239 5 years ago

Just took mine apart for cleaning hope the photos help.
DSC05136.JPGDSC05133.JPGDSC05134.JPGDSC05135.JPG

#240 5 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

Just took mine apart for cleaning hope the photos help.

DSC05136.JPG 63 KB

DSC05134.JPG 64 KB

DSC05133.JPG 73 KB

DSC05135.JPG 57 KB

Thanks! I could be wrong, but I don't think the spring arm on the left is supposed to be bent to the left. I think it's supposed to be straight up. I'm making sure my T-rex mod accommodates for the standard position and my spring arm isn't bent that way. How does it look for others?

#241 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Between the pic you posted and the pic on Mantis' website, it looks like there's two possible locations that they were installed. It also looks like they were just screwed in from the bottom, which is apparently why they always just ripped off. Thanks Russ for posting that link, I don't think mine has brackets either.

That pic on Mantis' site isn't JP, is it? The pcb looks different.

Also, looking more at the one I posted, I think it's one nut and one screw. When I was looking at my pf, I noticed the only threaded rod sticking through that seemed long enough to do anything with from underneath was coming down through a t-nut. It might be one of the outlane guide posts or something coming down through the t-nuts on either side. That makes me think they might be pretty secure on JP, even with stock ones, but would maybe have to be removed when removing top-side hardware and got discarded at some point.

jp - support bracket.png

Edit: Just checked again and I'm pretty certain my assumption above is correct. I see screw holes by the t-nuts on either side. I forgot to note what component from the top side is coming down through the pf, though.

#242 5 years ago

This game was really bad when I got it. I took the spring and bent it to make it straighter. It does not interfere with anything.

#243 5 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

This game was really bad when I got it. I took the spring and bent it to make it straighter. It does not interfere with anything.

It'll interfere with the improved t-rex mod!

Honestly, though, I can't remember how it was when I took my t-rex apart. I can't figure what it's doing other than giving the mech more resistance when going down and a little help when going up. I definitely installed it incorrectly in my latest tests to where the arm on the left was inside the frame, so the spring wasn't doing anything, and the t-rex still works fine...

#244 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

It'll interfere with the improved t-rex mod!

I guess I need to get a proto of it to test.
It looks great by the way. I guess I could just flip the spring.

The bracket for the playfield is a screw from the outlane with a nut on the underside like the photo. What happens is that the wood screw does not hold good. It had a #6 screw in it, I put a #8 screw to give it more bite. The one from mantis would be a better one if you had to replace.

#245 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I notice your t-rex doesn't have a front in the pic you posted. Is it just removed for cleaning?

Would you be willing to post a close-up of the very bottom front of the t-rex without the front piece installed? I've removed mine so many times I can't remember how the horizontal spring at the bottom is supposed to be installed.

Hehe yeah I removed it because I had to do something, just dont remember what, because of the goddamn raptor pit issues Ive been struggling with lately
I am continuing with it on saturday at our game location, If its not too late i can take some pics of the t-rex front then

#246 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

That pic on Mantis' site isn't JP, is it? The pcb looks different.
Also, looking more at the one I posted, I think it's one nut and one screw. When I was looking at my pf, I noticed the only threaded rod sticking through that seemed long enough to do anything with from underneath was coming down through a t-nut. It might be one of the outlane guide posts or something coming down through the t-nuts on either side. That makes me think they might be pretty secure on JP, even with stock ones, but would maybe have to be removed when removing top-side hardware and got discarded at some point.

Derp. Ill check mine tonight.

#247 5 years ago

Couple regular old screws in mine.

IMAG1110.jpg
#248 5 years ago

The Mantis ones are much nicer as they have 4 screws per bracket.

#249 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Couple regular old screws in mine.

IMAG1110.jpg 154 KB

I'm no expert, but I don't think yours are in the factory installed position. Yours is facing a different way and it's right next to the t-nut with the threaded rod coming through that it would have gone over and attached to with a nut, and there's a screw hole right on the bottom outer edge of the t-nut where the screw would go. If it works, it works. Wish mine had some when I paid a fortune for the game!

#250 5 years ago

I just bought a pair from Mantis, will see if I manage to connect them to my playfield, somehow

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