(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • 5,216 posts
  • 371 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 minutes ago by sataneatscheese
  • Topic is favorited by 167 Pinsiders

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#5001 21 days ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Those are just the standard orange sling plastics. I did order the blue ones though, I think they look better with all the other plastics.

Agreed. Blue are the best.

#5002 20 days ago

Has anyone "decaled" the targets on JP?

If so, what decals work best and where did you get them from?

#5003 20 days ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Those are just the standard orange sling plastics. I did order the blue ones though, I think they look better with all the other plastics.

Normally the orange version has also halftones; it seems yours has a pure orange background.

#5004 20 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Normally the orange version has also halftones

I actually think they were just washed out, appearing as one tone. I think the top part is supposed to be a darker orange, but just became faded over time.

#5005 16 days ago

Excited to finally join the club. Got help coming to bring it down to the basement tomorrow. These are built like tanks and weigh substantially more than normal pins. I did not realize they were 325 pounds until I picked it up! Anyways, little kids in my house are losing their mind. The dinosaur eats the ball! Came with the 6.0 code.

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#5006 16 days ago
Quoted from outcida:

Hey guys! I am in the process of clearing out my mod parts inventory so once parts are gone I will be discontinuing mods and closing out the business. I am focusing on a new business venture and between that, my 9-5 and family, the mod business is just too much and something has to give. I'd like to sincerely thank all of you that have supported me! JP was always one of my favorite games and I'm glad I was able to help make it better for some of you.
I am currently working on 1 last batch of 10 functioning gate mods. Static gates have been discontinued. Smart Scoop Lights have been discontinued. I have a a few static raptor crates and small raptor crates left and will make one last run of moving raptor crates. I have some dock signs and t-rex scoop lights.

Ordered your gate, must have it while still available, was planing on buying later but i understand your situation!
Love your work Tim!

#5007 16 days ago

I am considering side blades, but the ones I really like seem to come from overseas, abd the shipping is over $500. Im not paying that much in shipping. Does anyone know anywhere else I can get these or can get them vectored and printed?

Screenshot_2019-02-04-15-02-02 (resized).png
#5008 16 days ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I am considering side blades, but the ones I really like seem to come from overseas, abd the shipping is over $500. Im not paying that much in shipping. Does anyone know anywhere else I can get these or can get them vectored and printed?
[quoted image]

They don't want to ship to US. Don't know why.
You can register a German parcel forwarding (mailboxde.com), or someone in Europe (like me) can order it, then forward it to you.

#5009 16 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

They don't want to ship to US. Don't know why.
You can register a German parcel forwarding (mailboxde.com), or someone in Europe (like me) can order it, then forward it to you.

I had a fellow pinsider contact me about them. I will see what happens there first, but i may give you a holler later.

Thank you

#5010 16 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Excited to finally join the club. Got help coming to bring it down to the basement tomorrow. These are built like tanks and weigh substantially more than normal pins. I did not realize they were 325 pounds until I picked it up! Anyways, little kids in my house are losing their mind. The dinosaur eats the ball! Came with the 6.0 code.
[quoted image]

Nice grab to get one with a topper and metal deflector. How’s the PF? Do you mind sharing at least an approximate number for the purchase price? I know you’ve been wanting a JP for some time. I’m glad you found one.

#5011 15 days ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Nice grab to get one with a topper and metal deflector. How’s the PF? Do you mind sharing at least an approximate number for the purchase price? I know you’ve been wanting a JP for some time. I’m glad you found one.

Thanks!

There was a trade and cash involved but I put it at $3200 in value for the purpose of the trade. He also threw in a subwoofer and an undisclosed amount of cash towards my machine.

I would value a Jurassic park today at between $3000 for a decent one to $3500 for a really nice one. However, there is more demand than supply for this particular machine at the moment. I expect for prices on this machine to continue to creep up as demand beats supply. The 6.0 code is also great on this machine.

After I get it moved to the basement tonight, the only immediate change I'm looking at is the addition of the "Loopback Combo" signs.

The playfield is in good shape. Below is the description of the machine I got in a PM.

-------------------------------

Here is all the info on the JP I can think of:
Backllit the "when dinosaurs ruled the earth" banner and the scene in the back. Added a DK Pinball 12v/5v power tap that connects to LED strips to light them. There are a few LEDs under the playfield, but I never did a complete swap.

There is a complete set of Pinbits plastic protectors, with most but not all in place. The ramp is not cracked. The plastic by the upper flipper is cracked, but is generally hard to notice. All the other plastics are good.

The JP topper is included. There is a small crack by one of the screw holes, but should attach fine. I did not use it because my ceiling is too low.

The saucer by the TRex was replaced with a red one, and added a red LED under. Really glows red now - original was the JP yellow.

The new ROMs are installed, which absolutely make the game better. Also has NVRAM, so no batteries needed. I have the loop combo mod, but they are not installed.

The playfield looks really good. The only minor wear is covered by the Cliffys.

Only malfunction - when a ball drops into the control room, about 1 in 25 times the switch does not activate. I replaced the switch but this had no effect. I think the ball does not roll over it perfectly, or too quickly for the switch to react.

The machine is in pretty good shape. I think the major issues are
1. the cracked plastic
2. the area the lockdown bar covers, which has some rust and wood scrapes, but is not visible when the lockdown bar is in place.
3. the front of the machine has some of the logo repainted from what I guess was a locking mech that once covered the coin door. Hard to notice it unless look closely.
4. There are some scratches on the cabinet and shooting mech. I would call it a very good players machine.

#5012 15 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Only malfunction - when a ball drops into the control room, about 1 in 25 times the switch does not activate. I replaced the switch but this had no effect. I think the ball does not roll over it perfectly, or too quickly for the switch to react.

When you start to tear into it, take a look at the bracket where the ball would land. I believe on mine there was a pad of deadening rubber. I just assumed it was to keep it quiet, or help protect the ball. But after reading this, maybe it was to stop the ball from bouncing over the switch?

#5013 15 days ago

Anyone have any tumbler experience? I recently used one while cleaning my game and based off suggestions I used walnut as the media. However, once all the little screws and posts were done being polished, a bunch of that walnut got stuck in the screw heads and inside the posts, etc. Needless to say it was a PITA scraping all the walnut out of the screw heads. It actually took me a few hours to do all of them.

Any other recommendations for other media you can use? Anyone have success stories with other media?

#5014 15 days ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Anyone have any tumbler experience? I recently used one while cleaning my game and based off suggestions I used walnut as the media. However, once all the little screws and posts were done being polished, a bunch of that walnut got stuck in the screw heads and inside the posts, etc. Needless to say it was a PITA scraping all the walnut out of the screw heads. It actually took me a few hours to do all of them.
Any other recommendations for other media you can use? Anyone have success stories with other media?

I don't have experience with anything else, but this resin media has worked well for me:
https://m.harborfreight.com/520-lbs-Rust-Cutting-Resin-Abrasive-Tumbler-Media-63672.html

#5015 15 days ago

I think we can all agree that the manual is terribly inaccurate when it comes to rubber for this game. I ordered a standard rubber kit, which I have come to find are usually a bit off anyway, but this time it was WAY off. After reinstalling the new rubber I had 11 extra rubbers left over, which is way more than normal.

I took detailed photos of my tear down as I worked, but of course I can’t exactly rely on the previous owner(s) putting the correct rubber in the correct areas.

Does anyone have a real list of rubbers for this game, and where they go exactly? I feel like the only rubbers I really know are correct are the flipper rubbers (and maybe the slings). Titan has a few kits listed on their website, but even those differ from each other slightly.

A detailed “map” would be awesome if anyone has one.

#5016 15 days ago

I used this kit as my order qty and sizes

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/705

I have the 2 rubbers on the left side above and below the pop bumpers to go, and I have 2 rubbers left from what I ordered so it's really close. Not sure if they are both 1.25" but that's what I have left with when I swapped what was existing.

#5017 15 days ago

Thanks, that’s the one I was considering out of all of the Titan kits.

#5018 14 days ago

3 questions for you guys from a new owner:

1. How does the ramp diverter work? Is it supposed to be random or half one way and half another? It was feeding the ball to the right before I moved it and now seems to go mostly left after moving it. I'll take another look but any tips would be appreciated.

2. How does the menu work on this thing. The system is not self explanatory like it is on the 4 button Stern/Bally/Williams systems.

3. Is it possible to turn the sound off on the attract mode in this? I have the 6.0 code.

I know there have been a lot of questions on bulb types on this machine with no direct answer. I ordered 100 frosted natural white bullet, 100 frosted natural white wedge, and 25 natural white flasher bullets. I know this is way too many for the machine, but I'm hoping to have enough left over for the next machine to (fingers crossed Pinbot when one shows on the marketplace). In any case, I'll try and get an accurate count of what the final numbers are. I'm not trying to color match the LEDs.

#5019 14 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

2. How does the menu work on this thing. The system is not self explanatory like it is on the 4 button Stern/Bally/Williams systems.

Watch the first few minutes (starting at 1:15) of the following YouTube video for an explanation of the DE service buttons and how they work.

Gord

#5020 14 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

3 questions for you guys from a new owner:
1. How does the ramp diverter work? Is it supposed to be random or half one way and half another? It was feeding the ball to the right before I moved it and now seems to go mostly left after moving it. I'll take another look but any tips would be appreciated.
2. How does the menu work on this thing. The system is not self explanatory like it is on the 4 button Stern/Bally/Williams systems.
3. Is it possible to turn the sound off on the attract mode in this? I have the 6.0 code.
I know there have been a lot of questions on bulb types on this machine with no direct answer. I ordered 100 frosted natural white bullet, 100 frosted natural white wedge, and 25 natural white flasher bullets. I know this is way too many for the machine, but I'm hoping to have enough left over for the next machine to (fingers crossed Pinbot when one shows on the marketplace). In any case, I'll try and get an accurate count of what the final numbers are. I'm not trying to color match the LEDs.

I just did LEDs on my Jurassic Park (JP). I have a thread that chronicles it along with the many mods I am doing to it if you want to check it out.

Here is the LED list:

Jurassic park uses 5 separate bulbs.
#44/47 6.3v bayonet bottom
#555 6.3v wedge bottom
#455 6.3v slow blinking bayonet bottom
#89 13v flasher with bayonet bottom
#906 13v flasher with wedge bottom

Top of the backbox head (all originally clear white):
2 #89 13v flasher bulbs with bayonet bottom and 3 #44/47 6.3v bulbs

Inside the backbox (all originally clear white):
3 #89 13v flasher bulbs with bayonet bottom, 28 #44/47 6.3v bulbs
5 #455 6.3v slow blinking bayonet bottom
(Note: many people just use warm white in the backbox and skip several lights because it tends to be FAR too bright otherwise. Colors don't seem to work too well in the backbox either)

Playfield (various colors):

9 #906 bulbs (3 white, 3 yellow, 3 red)
18 #89 bulbs (15 white, 2 red, 1 yellow)
9 #555 bulbs (3 white under yellow pop bumpers, 6 clear white above scoops...3 have green bulb covers, 2 have yellow bulb covers, 1 has a blue bulb cover) Note: (mine had several added 555 bulbs under the PF by a previous owner bringing it to around 25. Check this first in your own machine)

72 #44/47 bulbs ( 20 red, 8 yellow, 9 blue, 2 orange, 7 green, 26 white)

There are also 3 #44/47 bulbs in the coin foor and 1 #44/47 behind the start button. All are originally white, but could be converted to red if so desired

#5021 13 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

2. How does the menu work on this thing. The system is not self explanatory like it is on the 4 button Stern/Bally/Williams systems.
3. Is it possible to turn the sound off on the attract mode in this? I have the 6.0 code.

Here are my notes on operating the menu buttons and a list of common settings, such as turning attract sounds on/off:

Pressing Black with the green button 'in' starts diagnostics.
Pressing Black with the green button 'out' starts Audits and Adjustments.
When in a menu, set the green in or out to go to next or previous menu item when black is pressed.
Some higher menu items are not shown unless you go backwards through the list, or 'extend list' is selected.
Start button is used change the value, then hit next to save.

adjustment 49 attract music = off
adjustment 4 game awards = credit -> Extra ball -> special
adjustment 46 trex eat balls = yes
adjustment 6 limit extra balls 3 = 0
adjustment 41 tournament => EXPO (resets audits)
audit 12 expand audits, then audit 25 = show total plays

11
#5022 13 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

I hear you
In progress, waiting for parts.
[quoted image]

Quick update about ball-trough opto board:
I had a chance to build a 2nd board. This will goes to USA. Better to test it in another pin. I don't expect any surprise.
Meanwhile, I have sourced all parts, except one, this is on the way. In order to save time, I have prepared few boards without this part, this means about 95% readiness for this batch.

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#5023 12 days ago

For anybody who is looking to do touch up paint on this machine in the future, "Americana Gloss Enamel Black" is as close to an exact match as I've ever seen for the the blacks on the base cabinet of this machine. I would put it at a 99% match on this machine suitable for repainting every black except the black in the Jurassic Park Logo itself. From what I can tell, the blacks in the Jurassic Park Logo are actually printed over top of the red on the logo and uses an ever so different shade of black there. I'd put it at a 97% match there, where it would bother you if you knew it was there, but nobody else would probably notice. In any case, for touching up the cabinet and general, I'd be behind this stuff 100%. I'm not doing clear coat or anything fancy and have no idea how the stuff would react with that sort of thing. In any case, the paint is $2 or so and I picked mine up at the local Michaels.

Paint Touch Up Black.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Acrylic-Craft-Paints/Black-Americana-Gloss-Enamels/p/7471

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#5024 12 days ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nib-jurassic-park-unboxing-video#post-4827813

Probably should have that link here in our club. Unboxing a new OLD stock JP isn't much different from a brand new Stern but it was cool to see. If you are watching with headphones, watch out for when they turn this sucker on. My wife heard T-Rex roar from the other room while watching TV.

#5025 11 days ago
Quoted from newovad:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nib-jurassic-park-unboxing-video#post-4827813
Probably should have that link here in our club. Unboxing a new OLD stock JP isn't much different from a brand new Stern but it was cool to see. If you are watching with headphones, watch out for when they turn this sucker on. My wife heard T-Rex roar from the other room while watching TV.

Man that was loud. It scared me a bit when I flipped the switch. They had that shaft cranked all the way up from the factory!

#5026 11 days ago

Got a cool 20 minute 2$ mod that I think makes a difference. As I was LEDing my new machine earlier today I noticed the pop bumper caps have a raised Jurassic Park logo on them. Cool! I don't know if that's standard, but mine do. I carefully painted the logo and now I have cool custom pop bumpers! Give it a shot!

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#5027 11 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Got a cool 20 minute 2$ mod that I think makes a difference. As I was LEDing my new machine earlier today I noticed the pop bumper caps have a raised Jurassic Park logo on them. Cool! I don't know if that's standard, but mine do. I carefully painted the logo and now I have cool custom pop bumpers! Give it a shot![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yes it’s standard. Here’s a pic fresh out of the box.

200F0D8B-1B17-4BA5-87A5-1979D6FBCF31 (resized).jpeg
#5028 11 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Got a cool 20 minute 2$ mod that I think makes a difference. As I was LEDing my new machine earlier today I noticed the pop bumper caps have a raised Jurassic Park logo on them. Cool! I don't know if that's standard, but mine do. I carefully painted the logo and now I have cool custom pop bumpers! Give it a shot![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nicely done, Marco also sells something very similar.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/550-5056-01-D

Gord

#5029 10 days ago

Well, guess I need to introduce my niece, who's almost 3 years old, to Jurassic Park. Guess she loves dinosaurs now. Says the T-Rex is her favorite.

#5030 10 days ago

Does anyone know the best way to get the lower jaw off the trex? I’d like to send it to get redone by the modfather and all of the body pieces simply unscrew but the jaw plastic is riveted on. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks

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#5031 10 days ago
Quoted from Davedigger:

Does anyone know the best way to get the lower jaw off the trex? I’d like to send it to get redone by the modfather and all of the body pieces simply unscrew but the jaw plastic is riveted on. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks
[quoted image]

There is a pin that goes through the jaw at the pivot point. There is a C clip on each end. Just take that off and slide the pin out. You will then have to drill the rivit out to remove the plastic piece.

#5032 10 days ago

Control room shot isn’t registering. Lifted the PF, saw a wire hanging(see pic). Thought oh simple fix. Soldered the wire onto the center lug, but still can’t get it to register. Any thoughts on next step?

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#5033 10 days ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Control room shot isn’t registering. Lifted the PF, saw a wire hanging(see pic). Thought oh simple fix. Soldered the wire onto the center lug, but still can’t get it to register. Any thoughts on next step?
[quoted image]

Check the diode. In later games, that diode was moved remotely to the playfield because the vibration would break the diode.

#5034 9 days ago

Finally joined the club this weekend. Big thanks to sataneatscheese for the lead. 12 hours of driving well worth it. Except for the fact it was working when I picked it up and now it doesn't boot.... gotta find my multimeter.... Either way still psyched

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#5035 9 days ago
Quoted from Davedigger:

Does anyone know the best way to get the lower jaw off the trex? I’d like to send it to get redone by the modfather and all of the body pieces simply unscrew but the jaw plastic is riveted on. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks
[quoted image]

winteriscoming made a badass video on how to take it apart and put it back together. I watched it twice and now I am an expert. Check it out...

#5036 9 days ago

Has anyone experienced an issue with the game kicking out too many balls? When Tri-Ball starts, the game kicks out 4 balls, instead of just 3. But when you start raptor 2 ball, it kicks out only the appropriate 2 balls. And on Tri-Ball restart, it kicks out the appropriate 2 balls as well. So I'm not sure why at the start of Tri-Ball it kicks out 4.

When the game kicks out 4 balls and you keep those in play for a bit, then drain 2 balls, the game thinks the multiball is over and you're left in regular play but with 2 balls.

All trough switches are good in switch test, and it handles the other multiball modes just fine. So I'm just not sure why it wants to kick out 4 balls instead of just 3 during Tri-Ball.

#5037 9 days ago

Enter multiball and watch if two balls are getting past the ball release at the same time, might need to rebuild the mechanism

#5038 9 days ago
Quoted from Asmig:

Enter multiball and watch if two balls are getting past the ball release at the same time, might need to rebuild the mechanism

I checked that thinking that could be the case, but it is functioning as normal. It releases the balls one at a time.

#5039 9 days ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

I checked that thinking that could be the case, but it is functioning as normal. It releases the balls one at a time.

Check this thread, it could be the switch at the end of the trough.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/testing-de-ball-trough-switches

#5040 9 days ago

This is why I am getting rid of that stupid switch row in the trough. Thing is never right.

#5041 9 days ago
Quoted from Asmig:

Check this thread, it could be the switch at the end of the trough.

Much appreciated. Sounds like the type of issue I'm having. I will place an order for the new switch tomorrow.

#5042 9 days ago

Just picked up a JP this afternoon from an estate sale for 3500cdn. This is my first pinball machine so I wasn’t too sure what to look for. It’s been HUO for at least 10 years as the owner told me it was in the house when they bought it. It seems to be all original and played fine albeit the angle was very flat so the machine played very slow. This thing is sooo heavy! Glad I had 2 people with me to help lift it up the 10 stairs to get it to the car. Are there any maintenance items I should be looking for and replacing?

#5043 9 days ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Just picked up a JP this afternoon from an estate sale for 3500cdn. This is my first pinball machine so I wasn’t too sure what to look for. It’s been HUO for at least 10 years as the owner told me it was in the house when they bought it. It seems to be all original and played fine albeit the angle was very flat so the machine played very slow. This thing is sooo heavy! Glad I had 2 people with me to help lift it up the 10 stairs to get it to the car. Are there any maintenance items I should be looking for and replacing?

Check the t-rex for proper movement (it runs diagnostics at boot). Check the scoops for damage, and check the gun for cracks/breaks.

Go to IPDB and check pic for pic if you want to go through it in its entirety.

#5044 8 days ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Are there any maintenance items I should be looking for and replacing?

Check the batteries in the backbox for leakage and clean up and replace if necessary.

Does the display show a credit dot? (does it display "free play" or "free play." or "0 Credits." The period there means there is switch not working, etc.)

#5045 8 days ago

I'm in the club! Drove 6 hours round trip last night to grab this one at a pretty decent price. Got home with it at 2:30 AM. A little tired but excited!!

f8d9e76bdd7421f7bb6ab8ca58d00095a1258f13.jpeg (resized).jpg
#5046 8 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

I'm in the club! Drove 6 hours round trip last night to grab this one at a pretty decent price. Got home with it at 2:30 AM. A little tired but excited!!

Welcome to the club! Put that piano on Criags List and make room for more.

It looks like the bulbs for your topper are burned out.

#5047 8 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Welcome to the club! Put that piano on Criags List and make room for more.
It looks like the bulbs for your topper are burned out.

Coutches and lamps are for normal people loose them too!
And dinner tables are overrated

#5048 8 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Welcome to the club! Put that piano on Criags List and make room for more.
It looks like the bulbs for your topper are burned out.

There are several bulbs burned out on the topper and the playfield. LEDs are in my future!

Man if I could get someone to come get that piano I would lol...

The interesting thing will be getting this beast up into our upstairs game room. It's a HEAVY PIN!

#5049 8 days ago

OK, looking for help with my JP (thoughts, suggestions, ideas).
Current issue list:
- Skill Shot Auto fires sometimes (without plunger shooting)
- Plunger auto firing sometimes (after skill shot auto fire)
- Plunger strength pretty variable - sometimes nice and strong sometimes pretty weak to not get into the pop bumpers
- Dinosaur's complete automatically before plunging (only 1 at a time and only sometimes)
- Ball trough not counting all drained balls (sometimes after MB/etc it thinks there's a ball in play still) - manually hitting the switch works though

These are the biggest things I'm facing right now, obviously i ran into control room switch issues but I took care of that already.

#5050 8 days ago

Quite a few things going on there. Start with the shooter lane switch, in diagnostics under active switches do any others trigger when you press that switch? The plunger will fire in game any time after the skill shot when that switch is pressed, something is triggering it like a bad diode or short somewhere.

Inconsistent plunger check wires soldered to the lugs of the coil are good, check all hardware holding the bracket is tight and replace the coil sleeve.

Does the trough switch not register because it isn’t being pressed all the way or do you have to move it up then back down? If it needs to be pressed further you can carefully adjust the roller to help get it to trigger. If its the latter replace the diode first then replace the switch if its still not working.

Auto fire skill shot happens when a target is registered, thats part of your switch issue.

Which dino targets complete themselves?

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From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 29.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Tim's Pinball Mods
$ 89.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Tim's Pinball Mods
From: $ 6.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 50.00
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
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