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(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 8,331 posts
  • 471 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by SkyKing2301
  • Topic is favorited by 197 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (6 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (6 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (6 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (6 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3325 3 years ago
Quoted from Time:

1 (resized).png

I was cleaning last night and noticed a post on the right side (in red) that's not on the left. I don't seem to have rubber on this post either. The left side has a small hole for a post but looks like one was never installed. Are your machines the same way?

Anyone have a part number for this post above the wire guide? manual doesn't have it listed.

2 weeks later
#3390 3 years ago

Mine was backwards when I got it too!

1 week later
#3416 3 years ago

I hope, I hope, I hope!!

#3423 3 years ago

Ordered mine too!! Can't wait!

#3441 3 years ago

From what I've read both LED and LCD will work with the code but you have to permanently mod the speaker panel to fit the LCD (which is why it's not listed on their site), also I think you have to pull out the speaker panel to access the boards because the light panel/door won't clear the LCD version.

#3444 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

And Chad confirmed that the ColorDMD will work with code 6.00

Good info, I didn't even think about that.

#3483 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

3 Days! Wheres the video COLORDMD???

I know! I'm dying to see the preview!

#3488 3 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Video preview is out... let me know what you guys think!!!!..

It looks amazing!! Well done sir.
Better than I even imagined it would be!

2 months later
#3736 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

If I have to buy the two flipper kit that says it's compatible with JP, where can you get just one additional rebuild for the top right flipper?

Pinball life will sell a half set

1 month later
#3846 2 years ago

I went LED, no permanent modification needed, easy plug and play. Looks great. I'm sure the smoothing of the LCD looks awesome too but I don't feel like I'm really missing out on anything.
Also the LED has better viewing angles...

3 weeks later
#3905 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

These are mine, PM sent!

Dang you were too quick for me! Nice grab.

1 week later
#3960 2 years ago
Quoted from HotPieceOfSass:

so i just installed the 6.0 code and now i can't get the audits menu to load when i try and access it I can only access the diagnostics mode. is there a different way to access it?
I'm to broke to pay real quarters to play the game and desperately need free play mode . lol

Push the green button in, and then try again.

#3983 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

What is the spare lightbox? Only cabinet with backbox was extra, not a Playfield

He means the bulb panel/board that is behind the translight... in front of the mpu etc.

1 week later
#4043 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Can anyone please confirm if the Chad 6.0 Rom is compatible with Pinsound?

Yes it is

1 month later
#4299 2 years ago

What are people using to power all the mods off the service outlet? I think it's time I give my power supply some relief.

1 month later
#4372 2 years ago

Fits nicely!

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#4374 2 years ago

Matchbox just released them as a legacy collection for the new movie. Target has them.

#4376 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball: link »

That set is under $6 at target

#4379 2 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I can't find a listing for it on the Target website. I guess it's in store only.

Yeah must be, I didn't see them online either but every target I went to had them.

1 week later
#4398 2 years ago

They sell both of them in singles, the covered jeep is the only one not in the 5 pack. The Mercedes from lost world is also green in single and grey in the 5 pack.

2 months later
#4490 2 years ago
Quoted from Andyj965:

on a few occassions the t-rex head hasn't gone back up. But if i restart the game the head operates normally for another 20+ games. Has anyone seen this before?

My guess is there may be a small break in the wires somewhere that shorts when the head goes down, most of the time maintaining its connection but when bent just right cuts out.

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2 months later
#4654 1 year ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

I just want to find someone that can supply me with the inner wall art, that is great!

I got mine from arcade skinz before he shut down. Retro refurbs has a couple, and the one they have for Gilligan island would look nice too.

#4666 1 year ago

Yes you will have a hard time selling it.
I would have a hard time even paying $1200 for it. That cab looks like it has had some very serious moisture issues, so everything is suspect. That may be the one that was for sale a couple years ago that was flooded in a hurricane. Unless you get it for ridiculously cheap (like $1000 or less) I would pass on that nightmare.

2 weeks later
#4686 1 year ago
Quoted from Daveeb2000:

Anyone know where I can get the sign mods the go over the Bunker and Control Room? Let me know thanks

1 week later
#4722 1 year ago

But with the pinsound board everything sounds better and you can switch from the original sounds to the endprodukt mix on the fly whenever you want...

1 month later
#4811 1 year ago

I'll take one of each! Lorg knows we could all use a better trough system!

2 weeks later
#4919 1 year ago

Do it. It's worth it. No more relay click and no more blinding flashes especially during chaos MB. I love it.

1 month later
#5311 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Im not sure what could be wrong next. I have a short video here. This was chaos mb going into drain of all 6 balls.
The game seems to be putting a ball in the upkicker and leaving it there for no reason. Does every ones game always have a ball ready to upkick? Its not recognizing that the ball is in the upkicker it seems. Like I said, the switch tests fine. And the ball activates it when its there. What am i missing?
Any help is appreciated.

Sounds like this...

#5386 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just finished cleaning up my coin mechs & installed some custom inserts.[quoted image]

Those look great! Ugh ,reminds me I need to find some!

2 weeks later
#5517 1 year ago

GI maestro won't solve that problem because it works for ALL the G.I. but is great for the blinding strobing effect.

#5518 1 year ago

I did the same thing as Darscot and put a spotlight on the left sling and up by the 3rd flipper as well to light the playfield up better.

#5522 1 year ago

That G.I. maestro is worth every penny.

#5525 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

First I've ever heard of it. Just checked out the website & watched all the videos. Very cool product for $123 shipped! All of his vids are on a LAH, so was wondering how many GI lines does JP have and what does each light?

Honestly I'm not sure, I just used it to control all of the g.i. to fade down to dim and back to full instead of strobe on and off. Gets rid of the relay click as well. Makes a huge difference in modes like chaos MB.

#5526 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

GI maestro won't solve that problem because it works for ALL the G.I. but is great for the blinding strobing effect.

You know i guess i just set it up and never tinkered with it after the fact, but from what I'm reading now maybe you CAN use it to dim the backbox by itself, I'll have to dink around with it some more when I get some time.

#5561 1 year ago
Quoted from edward472:

Mind posting a pic when you get a chance so I can compare to my setup?

The glare on grant is only because of the high angle I took the photo from..

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#5563 1 year ago

Finally got around to putting service rails on!
What a game changer, if you were on the fence DO IT! There's a little bit of careful drilling but it's not that hard. Used a 5/8" spade bit for the T nuts. Pilot drilling the lower holes is where you have to be really careful.

So much better than those dumb posts.
So much better.

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#5564 1 year ago
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#5573 1 year ago

I got the spike version, but i didnt see the other set...

#5604 1 year ago

This look great! Finally a good looking set of target decals!

#5609 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Morning All,
I came home with my first JP yesterday night and had a question regarding the 'T-Gate' -- is the ball supposed to go up the shooter lane, through the T-Gate and into the pop-bumpers? it seems to hit the t-gate and just head down the playfield - meaning unless I flipper-hit the ball into the pop-bumpers it doesn't actually go into that location.

Yes it should go through into the pops but it was common for people to flip that gate around for some reason. Mine was like that when I got it too.

#5624 1 year ago

The legs on those last 3 trough switches on the left are all bent pretty bad, especially the last one...

1 week later
#5737 1 year ago

You can also check to make sure the whole auto launch assembly (mounting bracket) is not loose, that could cause an inconsistant launch.

#5795 1 year ago
Quoted from woody24:

Since I've got the machine opened up to install the Opto ball through, I bit the bullet and ordered a ColorDMD. Not really wanting to spend $400, I decided I could bring a peanut butter sandwich to work for the next 6 months. ha.

Do it for a year and get the pinsound too, it goes in the same area as colordmd

1 week later
#5850 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Don't know if everyone is aware of these lockbar rail decals, but next time you order rings/rubbers, you should consider them. Not that they are necessary (then again, that can be said for many things we put on our pins), but it they do give an improved appearance every time you lift the playfield for maintenance. I have them on both my pins, and for some reason the nice finished look just makes me feel better than looking at the old tarnished/rusted piece of metal with missing/tattered stickers on it.

That does look nice, and of course I just put an order in yesterday.

#5861 1 year ago

Collect the jackpot, then use the smart middle to start CHAOS multiball.

#5871 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Like I said, I love the theme. Once T2 sells, and I fill that spot, well see what happens. Still really want an xmen le, but would rather trade plus cash for it.
JP lives to see another day!

Well I can't help but be torn about this haha

#5902 1 year ago
Quoted from woody24:

Ugh! After a lot of tinkering and soldering and troubleshooting with Davi with my Opto board, I finally got it working. Yay! But.... now I can't shut my coin door. I have a Japan import with a center coin slot and it hits about the area of the board with the JP logo on it. All I need is about 1/4 inch of space.
Has anyone else run into a similar issue, or do the double coin slots miss the board? If that's the case, maybe I should look into replacing the door?
Oh, in other news. Double check your maintenance rails for sliding the playfield out on. Mine were EXTREMELY loose. I could hand-tighten all the nuts several rotations. After tightening them up, I wiped them down cause they were dir-tay, then wiped cloth damp with oil over them. What a difference that made.

Take the coin mech off...

#5914 1 year ago

I'd buy the TILT Topper before I'd buy a NOS or re-pro.

#5959 1 year ago

JP is the perfect candidate for Radcals, the corners are already black...

I wouldn't think it would be a tough game to stencil, I lucked out and got a sweet set of Phoenix arcade decals for mine, super high quality, you could put feelers out and see If there is another set floating around out there but I know it was a limited run.

#6043 1 year ago

I think you'd be surprised how much people will pay for a nice mod, $100 is right in the neighborhood of most decent mods.

#6051 1 year ago

Looks good!
I feel like the backbox needs some yellow, maybe where there would normally be T-moulding.
It would match the getaway next to it.

#6095 1 year ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I personally like the idea of keeping the existing hardware, like the flasher and spot light, in-tact and mounted to whatever replaces the box.
If the sign itself isn't a box, will it successfully obscure all the hardware, or what's the plan for that?

Exactly my thoughts too, maybe make it as deep (but hollow on the back side) as the existing box so we can keep the flasher in there.

1 week later
#6216 1 year ago

I put comet 2smd "ice blue" in my pops and and they lightup a nice green. (Phone pic doesn't do it justice as usual)

As far as the cliffys go I had to move my control room/bunker trough back as far as possible, after that I don't find it that hard to hit, not as easy as without, don't get the lazy drop ins but not too many rejects of a good shot either.
The power shed is the only one that I wouldn't mind having the easy ones drop into, I might take that one off because it doesn't take as much of a beating as the other two.
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#6217 1 year ago

Has anybody put shorter legs on or know of some that would work?
My JP is a about 2" taller than my LWJP next to it.
Also trying to get the pitch to 6.5 I feel like I have to crank the rear levelers up way higher than I should have to, the previous owner put some red legs on the front but they are 28.5", same as the rear.

#6225 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

You should always fill the scoop damage before installing cliffy's or they're going to deform and cause issues with slow rollers. It looks like your C scoop cliffy might be starting to bend already.

Yeah I know. I'll fix them if I replace this set or I'll just take them off until I find a fresh PF.

#6230 1 year ago
Quoted from Geteos:

After much fiddling with vinyl decals and waterslides I was able to finish off two of the projects this evening.
Presenting the T-Rex Box (w/top) and the Stun Gun![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome! Nice work.

#6241 1 year ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

The 28.5" are the correct length. You could put new Stern legs on the back which are 30.5". My back levelers are way up. Probably 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" of the 3" leveler is sticking out of the leg.

Good to know yours are that high too, thanks.
I may just put the 30.5" on the rear that's not a bad idea.
I was hoping to lower the whole machine a little for kids and my short girlfriend but i dont remember ever seeing any 26.5" legs, guess I could have them cut and welded.

1 week later
#6288 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

NOTE: The production run of JP has the hex spacer.... Over the years "people", lose stuff...
------ Sample games are not production games,they have never been, and they never will be...

For sure, easy "extra part" to end up with after a JP topside.
Most of them probably ended up set aside in the cabinet "where did this go? Oh well, everything works!" Before the internet.
One time folded up and to the back she goes! Along with all the other miscellaneous screws and nuts you may or may not find a home for someday.

#6340 1 year ago

Top of the right sling? Where the main wireform is secured.

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2 weeks later
#6557 1 year ago
Quoted from bigcat68:

Have any of y'all guys upgraded to different, better playfield support brackets? If so type and pics please. I don't care for the factory DE brackets.

I bought the easy slides but haven't put them on yet.

#6561 1 year ago

I think he means the slides not the supports, but I put those supports on mine and totally worth it in every way. Edit: just re-read and you're probably correct.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Details please?

#6563 1 year ago

Those look nice, I guess? I mean, I don't see the issue with the metal ones. They seem to slide just fine. It's the prop up brackets that are shit. Unless I'm missing something.

They don't have the "bump" to have to go over when you slide the playfield back in.

I think either of these will fit.
I put the newer spike style on and they are a complete game changer.

#6566 1 year ago
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#6567 1 year ago

You do have to do a little drilling but they weren't that hard to install.
100% recommend it.

#6569 1 year ago

Drill pilot holes for the rear screws so the wood doesn't split.

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2 weeks later
#6654 1 year ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Curious, why are you guys cutting the tabs off of the eject hole inserts? When I replaced mine, I left the tabs and have never had an issue with the T-Rex eating the ball or the ball rolling out of the hole.

Same here, works every time.

1 week later
#6716 1 year ago

I was going to sell my DEJP but I don't think I can do it... I guess Dialed in gets the axe.

I'm too attached, and something seems cool about lining all 3 JP pins up together.

#6731 1 year ago

I'm buying it. From what I understand it is not based on the movie but takes place after the movie.

#6735 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

If it’s after the movie, why is nedry on the machine then?
Legitimately though, once you get it, please do a review of the machine - I’m very curious.

I guess because he was the cause of all the chaos.

#6767 1 year ago

These might look pretty nice in our DEJP's
Might have to trim them a little but I think they would work.

jurassic-park-stern-premium-pinball-sideblades-inside-decals-sideboard-art-pin-blades (resized).jpgjurassic-park-stern-pro-pinball-sideblades-inside-decals-sideboard-art-pin-blades (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#6921 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

They don't have the "bump" to have to go over when you slide the playfield back in.
I think either of these will fit.
I put the newer spike style on and they are a complete game changer.

1 week later
#6973 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, I must say that I'm really pleased with how my Barbasol flasher cover came out. The shaving cream can is designed to replace the red cover at the back right of the pin near the dock eject shield. Installation is simple - just take the two nuts off of the current flasher cover, replace the cover with my Barbasol can, put the nuts back on, and viola!
In my case I left the red flasher in, but I might decide to replace it with white (FYI, I use the 13SMD towers from Comet - I'm making the Barbasol flasher covers available for purchase for $35 including US shipping (as always, I will ship outside US but will need to quote based upon destination). As always, please PM me if interested, and be sure to check out all of my other JP mods as well at
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great! Nice work as always.

3 weeks later
#7053 1 year ago
Quoted from edward472:

Fired up my machine for the first time in a few weeks and played a few games. Everything works fine, but something feels off with the auto plunger. When I get to tri-ball, the ball feeds into the shooter lane and then there is quite a bit of delay before the auto plunge. It felt like it took an eternity for the game to kick out the extra 2 balls. Thoughts on what might be the issue?

Mine is doing the same thing lately, haven't dug into it to find the issue yet.

2 months later
#7172 10 months ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Would there be an issue adding starpost lights to this game because of the metal washers? I'm thinking the washers could potentially short out the lights?

Are you referring to the DE JP or the new stern JP?
My DEJP doesnt have or need metal washers and my stern JP doesnt necessarily NEED them so you can just take them off either way.
You can buy rubber or felt washers if you want to keep some on.
But to answer your question yes I would be wary of installing the lights with metal washers.
You could always contact @Ryanwagner from comet and ask him, he is very responsive.

1 month later
#7255 9 months ago
Quoted from jurassicpark93:

Merci! it is a very thick sticker
it is simply due to the fact that Sega bought Data East in 1994, my "speaker pannels" are from a Jurassic World pinball.. from.. SEGA
they had to complete the missing ADN of the Data East with parts of the SEGA, and it made this Dinosaure very end of production completed
as simple as that
if anyone is interested to do a swap, i dont care about this details, i just want my JP to look exactly as it was when i saw it for the first time (27 years ago... damnnn i'm getting old)
For the rest, i can not really tell, but i think it is the only differences, the playfield seems to be identical.. the only things that could have a few differences could be the electronics.. but to be honnest, i didn't take the time to compare, as this baby is in really good condition.. so i am focussing on playing right now

Thanks Dadi

Where are you getting this information?
What is the manufacture date on your machine?
I've never heard of anything like this but
they are 100% not from a sega JP.

A guy in the Data east club posted some screen decals that are closer to the original. Post #909

Hmm, the plot thickens, in that very thread two posts down meloyelo51 says he has plain black screens too.

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3 weeks later
#7374 8 months ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

Morning all! I've searched through this thread and am wondering if anyone has seen or experienced this issue I'm seeing with my game. During attract mode, when the lights are moving around the playfield, I hear a faint buzz that almost seems to move with the lights. It's also happening duing actual gameplay, but with all the sounds and everything it's way less noticible.
I just picked up the maching last week and initially thought it was just the old incandescent bulbs actaully making the sounds themselves, but last night when I was working on the playfield I realized that it's actually coming form the down firing speaker in the bottom of the cabinet.
Does anyone know what might be causing this, and how I can remedy it? For what it's worth, I will be converting to full LED (minus flashers) within a week or two, so maybe this will help?

It's normal. LEDs wont change it.

#7393 8 months ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

Hey there, so I've owned my JP maching for a little over 2 weeks now and have been spending a bunch of time trying to dial it in as much as possible. I've only ever played one of these machines out on location before, so I have a couple questions about how the game "should" play in order to help me get it back in proper shape.
1. When launching the ball into the pops, I'm finding that frequently it's draining right down the middle, an average of around one ball per game. Since updating the code to 6.0, the increased ball save has helped with this - but for the inexperienced player it seems a little unforgiving? I'm wondering if this was "by design" or if there's something going on with my machine to cause this? For what it's worth, my pops are all fairly active (sometimes the left one doesn't always activate) and I have my machine set at a 6.5degree incline.
2. I've read on this forum that it's normal to have the a hole above the left inlane/outlane where a post normally would go. My machine doesn't have a post there, but it does have a mini bare metal post above the right inlane/outlane. Is it normal for the mini-post not to have a rubber? I've read people adding it, but am wondering if that's considered stock and maybe mine just fell out?

Make sure the game is level side to side. It still happens from time to time but probably shouldn't happen once a game but it does happen, nudging is your friend, I was at 730 million last night going into ball 3 and it went SDTM out of the pops twice, game over...

The post didn't fall out, I think all JP have that hole there but no post although there is some debate whether or not some had the post from the factory.
It's totally up to you if you want to add one.

3 weeks later
#7482 7 months ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

Last night I finished the total conversion of my JP machine to LEDs. Some parts were a huge pain, such as the smaller target inserts and taking off the ramp to get to some of the GIs, but I really enjoyed going through it all and giving it a nice clean.
I ended up going with Comet Frosted Warm White 1SMDs for the GI/Backbox, and frosted colored 1SMD inserts for most areas. The end result looks pretty stunning in person. My first few games I played with the lights off in the room and it almost gave me a know, in a good way
Everything is working great, except for the 6 #906 bulbs that I replaced under the ramp. I went diagnostics and during the flash test found that only one of the red ones is lighting up. I figured it might be how it tests, so I played a few games and didn't notice anytimes where the other bulbs light up? Wondering if there's something going on, or maybe I bought the wrong bulb with incorrect voltages or something? Here's what I used to replace it ([quoted image]

Looks good!
It may be that they are not seated right, take them out and make sure the contact wires are spread towards the outside edges of the bulb base.
Those twist in sockets can be a little picky as to where they line up.

A "G.I. gizmo" will help with the strobing of the lights, those old Data east and sega games are kind of intense with the flashing.

#7486 7 months ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

I don't think it's a result of them not being seated correctly, because all other twist in sockets are working fine in the other areas of the game. I have some leftover 1SMD warm white (non-ghosting) LEDs that I could try a few places to test. Would there be any concern with doing that in this area?

It's not the twist socket itself, its how the contact wires of the bulb make contact with the twist sockets contacts.
I always spread them out when I do new LEDS or else some won't work.
The flashers under the ramp are 906 base bulbs so they wont fit anywhere else in the game to test.
Just pull one out spread the wires toward the outer edge of the bulb base, put it back in and put it in flasher test to see if it works.
I think some bulbs are polarized as well so you may just need to flip them around.

#7487 7 months ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

I don't think it's a result of them not being seated correctly, because all other twist in sockets are working fine in the other areas of the game. I have some leftover 1SMD warm white (non-ghosting) LEDs that I could try a few places to test. Would there be any concern with doing that in this area?

They just need to be toward the outer edge of that channel.

20200317_153334 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#7518 7 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Hi John,
That is a really nice alternate translite. I don't see Nedry (Newman from Seinfeld) on your alternate translite. That would have been nice to have him on this well-done alternate translite. That is not Nedry on the lower right part of the alternate translite is it?

Yeah that's Nedry with the Dilophosaurus spit on his face.

1 week later
#7579 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ok, so I'm playing on the new code and I am wondering about a few things.
1. The random skill shot is great and all, but doesn't everyone just wait till the dino walks back and then shoot it? The only time it makes sense going forward is when the one poses for the camera (heh).
2. It seems like the random "shoot the video dino" has messed up video now. Maybe it's just me but I never see it "blow up" so I have to keep pulling the trigger until I think it's enough.
3. It would be really nice if the game restart used the ball in the shooter lane instead of having to cycle it through, look for the missing ball, etc.
4. I don't know if this is easily moddable, but if the Diagnostics menu respected the reverse button it would be nice. Adjustments does.
5. Another nice feature would be an instant "don't eat the ball" by holding both flippers down or pulling the trigger or something. Sometimes I just want to keep going and not have him eat it.
Is the dude who did this still working on it? Maybe I can suggest some items, but if anyone has input would love to hear. I love the bypass the rex check on start, great feature. The random modes is perfect as well.
Does anyone have geometry problems with the left loop? I've always struggled through there and I know it's a tight shot but it feels almost impossible. I picked up the left and right side rubbers along that loop and set them on top of the metal "rails" that are under the rubbers. I think they are sitting out too far, at least that is what it looks like when I take the "ball view" of the loop. Anything I should adjust?
Same question for the ball launch. I think this has been covered many times before but aside from changing the metal guide rail position is there anything else? I shopped the whole game, coil rebuilds on all, so it should theoretically be performing well but I constantly get shots that are too long or short. I don't recall it being so bad before I shopped it. I've adjusted the rail several times but no matter what the shot is inconsistent. I'm half tempted to just get a new coil to rule that out.

The only thing I think I'd change about the newer code is to make the pops, slings or something change which mode is lit.

Make sure the launch coil is tight and aligned correctly vertically and horizontally. Also make sure the coil bracket isn't cracked or compromised.
If it isn't striking the ball correctly it will be inconsistent into the pops.

#7607 6 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

The only thing I think I'd change about the newer code is to make the pops, slings or something change which mode is lit.

I take that back!

The pops DO change the mode lit but only if you don't have the bunker lit.

2 weeks later
#7647 6 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

What is everyone using for post sleeve rubber? I redid everything in Titan black and I’m getting violent rebounds off of the mosquito captive ball and raptor pit posts - lots of ball hop. Multiple times the balls has jumped and hit the glass or jumped into the jet area and even a few rare instances of it jumping onto the metal rail, 1 event of it jumping back into the shooter lane. Just insane. Fully blame it on the Titans as I’ve never had this happen in 20 years. Also put a titan ring on my BTTF and getting violent rebounds there.
Obviously I have to pull the titans. Just seeing what everyone is using. Horrible luck with Marco rubber giving out under very light usage so looking for a good resource.
What you got?

Titan post sleeves aren't great.
Lots of bounce and wear quickly.

I think I have cliffy's on mine and they have been solid for a long time.

1 month later
#7787 4 months ago
Quoted from Mike_J:

What is a fair offer on a NIB with the original topper? 5K?

Why? Ya got one?

#7789 4 months ago
Quoted from Mike_J:

No, but I’m hoping to pick one up in July. There is one here in NJ.

That's crazy.
Lucky you!
I'd say 5 to $5500 or so.

I think that's around what that other one went for not too long ago but I really have no solid info.
I think it'd be tough to pay 6k for it even as cool as it is.

1 week later
#7861 4 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, I was finally able to put the cherry on top of my caution themed Jurassic Park. I like the new backglass that was shown recently, but I wanted several changes that the creator was unwilling to do. Therefore, I sourced various elements from the web (non directly from him), and created the design the way I wanted it. I then had a Pinside friend actually print the design on glass (this is not a translite). The backglass arrived today, and it is stunning!
Of course, I couldn't just to the backglass and keep the stock light board layout. Therefore, I completely redesigned and fabricated a new lightboard entirely. I designed it in such a way that I could use Comet fire bulbs behind all of the flames, and I think it came out great. I'd say I was done with modding this game, but there is always something else that comes up, but for now I'm really happy with it.
The pin look great in the center of my 3 game line up (my son call my game layout the traffic light for obvious reasons). All of this modding has lead me to a newfound enjoyment of the game, and I'm proud to have a one-of-a-kind JP now.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm usually not a fan of the caution tape but that looks great! Nice work.

#7872 4 months ago

The control room is lit when you start a ball, after you start the first game mode you have to shoot the power shed to relight it (stays lit until you hit it) or the inlane rollovers will light the control room for a short time as well (times out).

1 month later
#7982 3 months ago

Check this switch at the end of the trough.
That switch can be finicky and if it doesnt register it won't kick a ball out until ball search.

Screenshot_20200721-125239_Drive (resized).jpg

#7987 3 months ago

Check the rollover switch in the control room/bunker trough, it may not be registering consistently.
If that light is on or flashing it should start a game mode when the control room shot is hit.
I've had to adjust that switch more than once.
The ball can kind of hop over it or not depress it enough to activate it.

2 weeks later
#8033 76 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Johnjn -
Repost your question on the new JP thread. This is the Data East JP thread.

He's asking if the blades from the new JP would fit the Data east JP. This is the correct place for that question.

I don't see why they wouldn't, might need a little trimming but they should work.

3 weeks later
#8117 55 days ago
Quoted from Crafty:

This is my problem, the same mode is on for the whole game (all 3 balls), what makes the game switch between codes as your playing? Or is it just me? It's one of these funny things that once it happens you can't work it out LOL

Quoted from jorro:

Check the scoop switch in switch test rol in a ball and see if it activates.
The scoops have 2 switches
Its the switch in the middle of t he scoop trough.

Its this.

You aren't in a mode when you start, you have to activate a mode by hitting the "control room" scoop.
If the switch doesn't register it won't start a mode, super common on this game.
May be as "easy" as bending the arm so the ball makes better contact with it.

The 6.0 code is a new chip on the MPU board in the backbox, I recommend it, makes the gameplay better.

1 week later
#8145 47 days ago
Quoted from dferg24:

I need some help with a topper that I bought!

It was purchased second hand because the original owner couldn’t get it installed/sold the machine before installing it. Turns out that this connection cable linked here...
... is needed to connect to a Data East machine. Unfortunately either it never was purchased alongside the topper or got lost somewhere along the way.
I would be happy to purchase the one in the link but because I’m from Canada the shipping is going to be an additional $65 dollars. Luckily I have a friend who is willing to help me make one but he’s unsure about at least one thing and maybe more... hopefully he’ll respond with any additional questions.
Firstly though he’s wondering which connector to use at the power supply. Hopefully someone here can help answer his question! I’m also going to look through the manual as well!

Just installed mine yesterday. Here is a picture of the harness. I didn't use it so I didn't look for where it plugs in, I just plugged in to my 8 way splitter.

20200911_190823 (resized).jpg20200911_190833 (resized).jpg
#8146 47 days ago
Quoted from bossk4hire:

This is who made it and are pretty responsive and helpful!

Edit: He reached out to me today. I guess we just had crossed lines, all is good, I didn't know his name on pinside but seems like he is pretty easy to get ahold of on here.

#8147 47 days ago
Quoted from dferg24:

I need some help with a topper that I bought!

It was purchased second hand because the original owner couldn’t get it installed/sold the machine before installing it. Turns out that this connection cable linked here...
... is needed to connect to a Data East machine. Unfortunately either it never was purchased alongside the topper or got lost somewhere along the way.
I would be happy to purchase the one in the link but because I’m from Canada the shipping is going to be an additional $65 dollars. Luckily I have a friend who is willing to help me make one but he’s unsure about at least one thing and maybe more... hopefully he’ll respond with any additional questions.
Firstly though he’s wondering which connector to use at the power supply. Hopefully someone here can help answer his question! I’m also going to look through the manual as well!

Can you try (I know its tight behind there) to take a picture of the light strip(s) that are on the back of the T-rex for me, curious if its the same. Mine only has one strip.

Mine pretty much only lights up and pulses behind the neck.

Here is mine and a picture from the website.

I haven't changed the bulbs behind yet, have Rgb in there now, I think I'll pull the mounting brackets off and flush mount it.

20200911_083128 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200911-082401_Facebook (resized).jpg
#8159 46 days ago
Quoted from dferg24:

Here is a picture of the two led light strips.
[quoted image]

Thanks, this is what I needed.

1 week later
#8202 35 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I hadn't noticed that.the operators menu on this pin is a struggle compared to the Bally Williams and Capcom I have.
Do you exit just by turning the pin off?
Also when i booted it up I held the trigger to skip the t rex diagnostic but ended up with a message that said something about replay and to press start to confirm. I don't remember the correct wording, any idea what that's about?
And is there anywhere I can see a rundown of the rules of DE JP with 6.0? I thought i could change which mode is selected but can't suss out how.

Just go through the end of the menu to exit.

Thats just to reset the replay score if it gets too high.

The pop bumpers change the mode that is lit.

3 weeks later
#8265 13 days ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

Hey guys. I'm thinking of moving a Color DMD LCD from one of my Stern games into my JP. I realize some speaker panel modifications are needed to make it fit, so Color DMD only recommends using the LED version. Does anyone know if I would need to order the Data East Power Adapter from Color DMD to make it work? Or is that only for the LED version?

You will need it if you are going to pull power from the board.

#8301 8 days ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Does anyone have a lead on a great condition PF? Great to me means little to no scoop wear and good oranges/reds

Been looking haven't seen much.
CPR had it on a interest list for while but they aren't doing that anymore, don't know what happened from there on.

#8319 5 days ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

I checked the coil stop, and it looks just fine - no missing rivets or anything. It's slightly punched in but nothing that I think would cause this kind of issue. Also, if this was the culprit, wouldn't that mean the left flipper would be the one that's working incorrectly, as opposed to the right one which isn't feeling right?
I did notice that the small black rubber stopper that the flipper rests on while it's resting on the "notched" coil stop (when the flipper is down) seems to be incredibly warn down. I'm wondering if replacing this would help because the flipper wouldn't be traveling as far?

The right flipper would be sagging lower than the left at rest if the rubber was the culprit.
Both flippers have "coil stops" so the left flipper has nothing to do with it.
The coil stop is the piece that the plunger hits when its engaged. The piece that it rests on is not a "coil stop".

Rebuilding the flippers on an old game is usually not a bad idea anyway, I can probably help with that but you should check all parts on the right flipper and make sure it operates smoothly by hand.

#8320 5 days ago

This piece at the end with the brass ring is the "coil stop".
If the nub on that moves at all its bad, it should be tight.

20201023_211907 (resized).jpg
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