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(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8,326 posts
  • 469 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by Yaron
  • Topic is favorited by 197 Pinsiders

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There are 8326 posts in this topic. You are on page 28 of 167.
#1351 4 years ago

Gutted, that really stands out doesn't it! All I could suggest is that you remake your own plastic if you can get hold of a scan. Might be a bit tricky though due to the overall size of that plastic and the clear window over the Raptor Pit lane. Alternately you could use the same artwork to make a decal to place over top of the damaged area.

#1352 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Correction...there are two jackpots lit at the start of triball (loop and ramp). Hitting one of those lights the CHAOS letters. Get all of those and the 6 ball "CHAOS" multiball starts where you have to get the CHAOS letters again, then jackpot shots lite, then trex after that.

Correction...after the 2nd CHAOS, first shoot T-Rex, then (Super) Jackpot is lit (again loop and ramp).

BTW I love that the new code gives the "CHAOS" shout out when collecting a letter. So much more action and a very important feedback during the multiball IMO.

#1353 4 years ago

Wow that was a really strange white spot. Have you tried some novus on the underside? Is the coil working/burnt?

#1354 4 years ago
Quoted from koops:

... has a white area in a single spot. Any idea what I can do about it?

Not a fix but a band-aid. Buy a plastic raptor and mount him over the spot.

#1355 4 years ago

Just got one of those Polk subwoofers and hooked up JP and Batman Forever to it. OH MAN how sweet thr bass makes JP, especially when the cab shakes.

#1356 4 years ago

Another quick question:

I've noticed the top flipper to lag behind the right flipper when using a kind of a half-press vs quick full-press. I tweaked the leaf spring ever so slightly but can only ever seem to accomplish either a flipper-up contact or the lag returns. I think I may have snagged a sleeve on the assy while cleaning, knocking it out out alignment.

I presume I just keep on tweaking until I get it, correct?

Also, I noticed right flipper switch stack feels loose. I tried to tighten the two screws but was meet with no resistance. Looks like the hole is stripped. Do you suggest a longer screw?, larger dia screw?, fill the hole?, something else??

Thanks

#1357 4 years ago

I'm no expert by any means, but all my two-stage flipper machines do that... light pressure activates the bottom flipper, hard pressure activates both at the same time. I love it. It means that you can just use the bottom flipper and not the top, which is especially useful for hitting the S hole for CHAOS. Or use the light pressure to cradle a ball on the lower right flipper then more pressure to keep using the top flipper during multiball.

I assume you could somehow stick the third switch onto the middle switch to bypass this if you really wanted to, maybe?

#1358 4 years ago

Good point on the lag being intentional, but was not like that previously so I thought I had messed it up. The top flipper can get in the way of the Boat Dock shot, though a quick release is really what's needed there, not a half-press (?)

I've found myself missing the top-flipper T-Rex shot due to the lag. I'll tweak and see how it works.

#1359 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Good point on the lag being intentional, but was not like that previously so I thought I had messed it up. The top flipper can get in the way of the Boat Dock shot, though a quick release is really what's needed there, not a half-press (?)

No, that's on purpose. If you half press, you should not have that flipper come up. It's useful, for instance, if in Tri-Ball you are cradling a ball in the bottom right hand flipper and you're trying to shoot the T-Rex, you shoot it up to boat dock while half holding the left flipper and then can take aim at the T-Rex with your shot.

Basically all modern DMD games do that.

#1360 4 years ago

Excellent info! Thanks.

#1361 4 years ago

No problem! Jurassic Park is one of the few machines that I actually remember to sometimes use the half-flip with!

#1362 4 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

Basically all modern DMD games do that.

I'm not sure which was the first game to feature it but 1980 Williams Alien Poker does this for the right 2 flippers. It was dubbed "double action" flipper and calls it out on the printed text on the apron.

#1363 4 years ago

Question: Via attract mode is the top right scoop lights "Power Shed" supposed to light up?

#1364 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Question: Via attract mode is the top right scoop lights "Power Shed" supposed to light up?

No it doesn't.

#1365 4 years ago

k thanks.

#1366 4 years ago

Been doing some general maintenance, and noticed that the left metal guide into the raptor pit snapped off it's tab closer to the opening of the pit. I know I've seen someone else saying one of their guides broke.

Do they make replacements? And fixes? Luckily, doing a test with the ball, it doesn't look like it will run across the exposed metal edge. It clears it just enough. There's a nail stuck in the playfield between the egg shot and the raptor pit that restricts the metal guide from being pushed out too far.

But sheesh. Went all this time, and as soon as I get a hold of it, it breaks. I was wondering how it was holding up. There's been some solid shots that bounce in the entry of the raptor pit. Now I know, it didn't hold up.

Thought. Could it be possible to scratch up the ends, and put a bead line of solder? or would you think it's break up after a while?

#1367 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Thought. Could it be possible to scratch up the ends, and put a bead line of solder? or would you think it's break up after a while?

I don't think a bead line of solder would withstand one ball strike without breaking. It sounds like you will need to have this tab welded back on if you want the fix to last.

Gord

#1368 4 years ago

I've had tabs on playfield ball guides spot-welded back on by a buddy. Can leave a blemish that you'll may not be able to polish out though. It's also possible that my buddy just kinda sucks at little welds like this (he does construction welding).

#1369 4 years ago

Was kinda thinking. What about making a small L-shaped piece that will be a bit smaller than the width of the tab, and only maybe an 1/8in tall, and then JB Weld it as a support to that tab? JB Weld has like a 1500 lbs of pressure strength, right? Think that would hold up to the bashing of the ball?

I've used JB Weld on a project before, and gave it a good "trying to rip this out, without actually ripping it out, test." and felt like the joint was much more secure than the rest of the piece, and if anything were to fail, it would be right where the JB Weld ended.

Then as added security, maybe a layer of Gorilla Glue. So that if the JB Weld does crack and break into pieces. The Gorilla Glue will hold it in place. Don't want to hack pieces. But for something this small and out of sight, I'd like to avoid actual welding for the spots, like accidental mentioned. (edit: hah, realized that your username isn't actually LoopCombo. )

#1370 4 years ago

Good idea for a case like this where the tab is out of sight. I once had to weld a tab on a Judge Dredd inlane guide. The thin guide is right there in your face and the tabs actually face the player so I had to weld it. The distortion from the weld ended up on the face of the guide, but facing away from the player so I didn't mind.

#1371 4 years ago

JB Weld won't hold for pinball stuff. Take it to a local welding or machine shop, they'll probably do it quickly and cheaply. The ramps, rails, etc. in pins are cheap, thin staniless steel. Take it to someone that has the experience and equipment to weld it correctly.

#1372 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Do they make replacements?

It wouldn't be too much of a stretch to DIY a complete new ball guide out of a small sheet of stainless steel, cut with a cutting disc on a Dremel. It would be a matter of leaving tabs at the bottom, drilling a hole in them and bending out.

I would think someone like Cliffy could pretty easily manufacture these if there was enough demand.

#1373 4 years ago

Hi everyone. I'm new to the Jurassic Park club. I have a few questions which are hopefully easy to answer.

The flippers on my machine aren't really aligned up evenly nor do they line up to the hole in the play field. Is adjusting the flippers an easy process, or does it require a complete rebuild?

Also, I played a game in a newly refurbished machine over the weekend and noticed that my machine does not enter any game modes (it stays in stampede mode). What sort of symptoms can cause this?

Thanks for your help, love this machine, and can't wait to get it back to its former glory.

#1374 4 years ago
Quoted from phollibone:

The flippers on my machine aren't really aligned up evenly nor do they line up to the hole in the play field. Is adjusting the flippers an easy process, or does it require a complete rebuild?

You can just adjust them relatively easily, but if they are like that you probably need a rebuild.

Quoted from phollibone:

Also, I played a game in a newly refurbished machine over the weekend and noticed that my machine does not enter any game modes (it stays in stampede mode). What sort of symptoms can cause this?

The machine you played has the new code. Yours is working as normal with the original code.

#1375 4 years ago

What do you mean, stays in stampede mode? When you shoot the scoop does it not start the mode?

#1376 4 years ago

I installed a SmartDMD and modified winteriscoming's palette. I basically made the yellow and red a little less saturated and added a subtle sandstone color to the white. This ties all the warm colors together while still being light enough to be used for highlights. I got the idea from the engraved Jurassic Park logo on the playfield. The camera does not pick this up but it shows in the last photo.

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#1377 4 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Wow that was a really strange white spot. Have you tried some novus on the underside? Is the coil working/burnt?

Not sure. I've only just received the pin and it still in storage while I make some room for it. From lookin at the plastic itself i'd say that novus won't help and it appears to be above the paint (ie. layered from bottom to top. paint -> white mark -> top of plastic). I'll have to strip it out and have a good look at it. This particular plastic doesn't seem to be easy to get a hold of.

#1378 4 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

What do you mean, stays in stampede mode? When you shoot the scoop does it not start the mode?

Over the months that I have played the machine I have not been able to progress the game from Stampede onto the next mode. I have had the balls in the scoops multiple times but there is never any progression. However upon playing this other machine I did notice progression onto the next few modes was rather easy. Is this a fault with my machine or as suggested does it have something to do with the new firmware?

#1379 4 years ago

What isn't clear is whether or not you are actually starting and playing the Stampede mode. Does it simply never time out and keep running scoring points for each target? Or does the mode never start?

The most common issue with this game is that the switch in the Control Room scoop dies and you cannot start any modes. Yours must be dead. However if you're managing to start Stampede mode then something must be triggering it but not sure how that would be possible except for a faulty diode nearby creating a false-positive (if that's possible) but then the triggering of the Control Room to start the next mode should be possible to occur again.

#1380 4 years ago

Oh ok, good question. The Stampede light on the play board CRT is constantly lit, but there is never any suggestion on the DMD display or sound effects that stampede had activated. Is that a symptom of the switch in the control room having died?

#1381 4 years ago

Yep, replace that switch between the two scoops.

#1382 4 years ago

Easy peasy. Good effort enjoying the game for that long without playing any modes! JP does have a pretty awesome multiball

#1383 4 years ago

Complete newbie here, but does anyone know the part number for the switch that I require for the control room, or where I may be able to source them from Australia?

#1384 4 years ago

Before you go buying stuff it may just be out of adjustment. See if the ball is depressing the switch low enough to click. Use a ball, not your fingers. Go into switch test as well.

#1385 4 years ago

That is the best idea, could be a wire came off, too. But if you do need to buy it, the switch is 500-5442-01, and Marco has it - http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5057-00

#1386 4 years ago

Now before you replace that switch, just make sure one of the wires hasn't come off. That's the exact same problem Griz had with his. Switch may be perfectly fine, which his was. Just re soldered back on, and good to go.

EDIT. Okay, everything has been mentioned. Seems like a lot of first suggestions are to replace stuff that doesn't need replacing. Start with the lowest common denominators first, which are always the cheapest.

#1387 4 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

I installed a SmartDMD and modified winteriscoming's palette. I basically made the yellow and red a little less saturated and added a subtle sandstone color to the white. This ties all the warms colors together while still being light enough to be used for highlights. I got the idea from the engraved Jurassic Park logo on the playfield. The camera does not pick this up but it shows in the last photo.

I was going to put a colorDMD in mine. But this seems like a much better idea since they will prob never color JP. How difficult was it to set this up with smartDMD?

#1388 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

I was going to put a colorDMD in mine. But this seems like a much better idea since they will prob never color JP. How difficult was it to set this up with smartDMD?

They did do popeye...JP ColorDMD is coming, mark my words.

#1389 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

They did do Popeye...JP ColorDMD is coming, mark my words.

Highly doubt it. DE requires a great deal of cutting to get it fit, it also needs an external power supply to work. I dont see them doing JP for a very very long time.

#1390 4 years ago

Had a look, and switch wires look connected fine, I have attached a photo of how it looks.
But to confirm behaviour, the Stampede CRT flashes all game (except during Tri-ball). Putting the ball into the control room chute doesn't do anything other than spit the ball out. I have tried to manually activate the switch and again no action happens. So is it safe to assume the switch is gone?

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#1391 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Highly doubt it. DE requires a great deal of cutting to get it fit, it also needs an external power supply to work. I dont see them doing JP for a very very long time.

The SIGMA display will work in JP in single color mode using the standard power driver board as a power supply. A DK power tap works well for this.

Mounting the display to the speaker panel is a bit tricky. Due to the shape of the plastic speaker panel, the bracket sits back pretty far from the front of the panel, and some modification to the bracket is required to relocate the Whitestar and ColorDMD controller board positions so they don't interfere with the backbox door.

Alternatively, it's possible to cut/notch out the top of the speaker panel so the display can sit closer to the panel.

Not exactly plug and play. Nevertheless, it can and has been done.

#1393 4 years ago
Quoted from phollibone:

Had a look, and switch wires look connected fine, I have attached a photo of how it looks.
But to confirm behaviour, the Stampede CRT flashes all game (except during Tri-ball). Putting the ball into the control room chute doesn't do anything other than spit the ball out. I have tried to manually activate the switch and again no action happens. So is it safe to assume the switch is gone?

image.jpeg image_1.jpeg

Dude...the diode is broke off one side. Put a new one on or solder that one back on. I bet the switch is fine. Mine was the same way when I first got it.

On second look, the whole leg is broke off your switch. Get a new switch AND a diode and you'll be good to go.

#1394 4 years ago

Am I the only one who noticed that the sound (rolling thunder) when Tri-Ball starts is now a lil late with the new code?

...Can someone me tell why?

#1395 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

I was going to put a colorDMD in mine. But this seems like a much better idea since they will prob never color JP. How difficult was it to set this up with smartDMD?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/smartdmd-color-display-setup-guide

Relatively easy.

#1396 4 years ago
Quoted from phollibone:

So is it safe to assume the switch is gone?

As Pimp77 said, the diode and tab is broken off. So there's your problem. Sucks that the switch is probably still good, but don't have a good enough contact to solder back onto. So yeah, you'll need a new switch.

#1397 4 years ago

That switch diode seems to be a common issue - must see a lot of shock with the ball hitting that scoop so often. Mine was broken when I got this machine (actually was ~attached with come sort of conductive epoxy or something - odd). Last week, I had to re-repair the broken solder joint at this same location - my old solder repair from 2000 had failed.

Previously, I had just tacked the loose diode end onto the solder connection. This last time, I removed all the solder from that switch lead and passed the diode end thru the hole before soldering back on. Hopefully the last time I visit that connection.

#1398 4 years ago

Crash, this uses just 5V/12V vs high voltage like the DMD, right? I was thinking of going this route when the HV leg of my power supply went bad. I chose the more direct route of replacing the supply for ~$100. DMD was fine.

I really like the color pallet you picked. Looks great!

#1399 4 years ago
Quoted from NFK:

Am I the only one who noticed that the sound (rolling thunder) when Tri-Ball starts is now a lil late with the new code?
...Can someone me tell why?

Another thing I noticed is that the raptor ball save isn't active in super egg mania at all. Is this on purpose to punish a missed shot cause the raptor is so close to the egg? It makes me want to play the mode less.

#1400 4 years ago

Husband was playing our JP last night, and all of a sudden we get the ball search happening and nothing will come out of the bunker. Pop the hood and the ring on the switch over the VUK has broken clean off. Ours looks way thicker/flatter than the wire one in the pic above from phollibone, so I guess I'll be getting out the manual later today to see if I can find the correct part. If anyone knows where to find one, please let me know.

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