(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • 7,150 posts
  • 416 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by jamex
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

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There are 7150 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 143.
#101 5 years ago

Just joined the club. Great pin!

One annoying problem. Every time ball comes down wireform across pf it reaches the end and bounces overtop right sling instead of falling in right inlane...I have not fully tweaked game or leveled it but anyone get this prob. I thought maybe I was missing a blue foam stop but mine looks normal.

Thanks for any help.

#102 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Just joined the club. Great pin!
One annoying problem. Every time ball comes down wireform across pf it reaches the end and bounces overtop right sling instead of falling in right inlane...I have not fully tweaked game or leveled it but anyone get this prob. I thought maybe I was missing a blue foam stop but mine looks normal.
Thanks for any help.

No blue foam stop - just sounds like it needs a little adjusting.

#103 5 years ago

Fixed the wire form issue.

Didn't I read there is an adjustment if you dont want T-rex to do the diagnostic every time you turn game on? or is it required.

Thanks

#104 5 years ago

Few things. First, I learned that the playfield is designed to be opened like a System 11 where you don't slide it over that ridge, it just pivots so that the back side is very near the bottom of the cabinet. That's how you're able to use the bungie cord in the bottom of the cabinet to hold it up. Now, that being said, could someone please help me with the type of eyebolt that's supposed to be in the back of the playfield for this purpose? Mine is missing. This is actually huge for me because my ceiling is too short to pull it out and lift it like I was doing before!

Next, the outlane post on the right side. Is it supposed to have a rubber ring on it? Mine is just a bare metal post that has now been knocked so much it's a little loose in the hole. I can only imagine that's only going to get worse. I think I may swap my post out with one that I can put a rubber ring on just to save that hole from getting destroyed.

Quoted from billsfanmd:

Didn't I read there is an adjustment if you dont want T-rex to do the diagnostic every time you turn game on? or is it required.

It's currently required, but ChadH is fixing that in the new code that he will be releasing not nearly soon enough.

#105 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Few things. First, I learned that the playfield is designed to be opened like a System 11 where you don't slide it over that ridge, it just pivots so that the back side is very near the bottom of the cabinet. That's how you're able to use the bungie cord in the bottom of the cabinet to hold it up. Now, that being said, could someone please help me with the type of eyebolt that's supposed to be in the back of the playfield for this purpose? Mine is missing.

True. And it has the flexibility of sliding to the end of the rails so that you can pivot from the very rear of the PF, giving better underside access to the components at the back. It's not as good as the WPC system of sliding to a locking system at the end of the rail, but at least it's better than System 11 fixed-point pivot.

Quoted from aobrien5:

Next, the outlane post on the right side. Is it supposed to have a rubber ring on it? Mine is just a bare metal post that has now been knocked so much it's a little loose in the hole. I can only imagine that's only going to get worse. I think I may swap my post out with one that I can put a rubber ring on just to save that hole from getting destroyed.

It doesn't ship with a ring but you can put a 3/8 on there with a bit of stretching. The other outlane doesn't even have a post but you can put a 3/16 on the top post of the lane guide and it does a great job.

#106 5 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

It doesn't ship with a ring but you can put a 3/8 on there with a bit of stretching. The other outlane doesn't even have a post but you can put a 3/16 on the top post of the lane guide and it does a great job.

Perfect, thank you.

#107 5 years ago

Anyone have a spare front cab decal i can buy? Thanks Mike

#108 5 years ago

No worries! I managed a pretty sweet outlane shake-out thanks to that 3/16 rubber! See 7:30 in this video: http://vimeo.com/53367673

#109 5 years ago
Quoted from twinmice:

Anyone have a spare front cab decal i can buy? Thanks Mike

I'm pretty sure JP cabinet art is screened right onto the cabinet. No decal.

#110 5 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

No worries! I managed a pretty sweet outlane shake-out thanks to that 3/16 rubber! See 7:30 in this video:

lol, yes you did. very impressive.

Btw, I love your little computer/bunker/shed mods!

#111 5 years ago

Just a fluke. I haven't ever done it again on any game, so I thank that little 3/16

Thanks! They were an early prototype in the video. I've gone through a few revisions since then. You can buy them at www.loopcombo.com if you're interested.

#112 5 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

They were an early prototype in the video. I've gone through a few revisions since then. You can buy them at http://www.loopcombo.com if you're interested.

As soon as I can fit it into my budget. Wife has me on a tight leash for a while.

1 week later
#113 5 years ago

I am looking to buy a shopped JP as my first SS pin to play and practice on. What would you recommend to buy to keep it serviced and cleaned?

#114 5 years ago

Anybody know where i can find a translite? Thanks Mike

#115 5 years ago
Quoted from Diruos:

What would you recommend to buy to keep it serviced and cleaned?

Here's a quick list of some of the things I use regularly:

The Manual - If you don't get one with your purchase, you can find them on www.ipdb.org

Novas #1 and #2 for cleaning and polishing.

Johnson Paste wax for the playfield (and even the cabinet sometimes since JP has a painted cabinet).

A digital multimeter - Something will always go wrong. You'll need this to help find the cause.

It's difficult to get to some of the bulbs on JP. If your game doesn't come with LEDs, you'll need replacement light bulbs and a socket set to get to them.

Glass cleaner

I have a JP for sale. What part of the country are you in?

#116 5 years ago

I just joined the club last week. I've wanted one since I played one at my first job in the break room 21 years ago. I bought a project machine on ebay a few weeks ago. Playfield is in great shape. Cab is not bad. A little fading and a few scuff marks. Flippers don't work (one is fried). I've already fixed a few minor problems. These are some of the other problems that still need to be addressed. The coil that shoots the ball into the shooter lane doesn't work. T-Rex works but his mouth doesn't close when picking up the ball. No sound at all and a loud buzzing coming from the speakers. I've already diagnosed all the problems above except the sound issue and I have parts on the way. Any one have any ideas on what could be causing the buzzing and the no sound issue? All my voltages check out on the sound board. I can't wait to play this thing already. 21 years of waiting and it's killing me to have to keep waiting when that Rex is just staring at me.

#117 5 years ago

There is always some buzzing with JP, but excessive buzzing is likely a grounding issue.

#118 5 years ago

Turned on game this morning and my DMD display flickered and then went completely dark, nothing displayed. After checking that the Power driver board was producing the correct voltages to the Display and measuring the voltages at the display, I removed the DMD controller board from the display. I switched it with the one from my DE WWFRR which has the same DMD controller board, I then installed the JP display ROM on the board, and the WWF board works perfect in JP. I put the questionable JP board in my WWF with the WWF Display ROM installed, started up WWF up and Nada, no display, so I am assuming my JP Display controller board has issues. Looking at the JP controller board closely, there are no signs of any issues. The board is original but looks very good, nothing burned or discolored, no broken traces, hacks, or anything like that. There is very little written concerning systematic troubleshooting the controller board that I can find. A fellow Pinsider gave me some advice on what to check first using a logic probe to test to see if I am getting signals from the processor Chip U11 and U9 and the RAM chip. Will have to put the working controller board in JP with the JP ROM to see what kind of signals, etc. I get with the game on and compare to the JP board to see if there is differences and if the RAM is being addressed. Anyone have any suggestions, perhaps having experienced a similar issue with a DE DMD controller board? Shotgun approach won't work on this.

#119 5 years ago

Picking up a JP tonight! I've never even played one before but reading all these post got me wanting one. I am sooo excited! Hope I'm not disappointed. : )

#120 5 years ago

I get my JP Wed! I am so excited, I will treat my baby like gold haha.

#121 5 years ago

I'll be leaving the club soon. I bought a DM and need to make room. My JP is in great shape. 100% working and clean, and has several mods, LEDs throughout, updated roms, new playfield glass, and a topper. You can read all of the details in the market.

http://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/12509

#122 5 years ago

I just joined the club last night. I had never played one before either but a combination of reading the posts here and the price swayed me to give it a try. The machine is almost 100%, the only problem it has right now is the T-Rex isn't picking up the ball all the time. Looking over the playfield I didn't see any wear other than minor wear on the scoops. Nothing that a cliffy won't cover. It is going to need a good cleaning and the ramp needs to be flame polished. I will be switching it over to LEDs and since I love modding machines, this will be a perfect one for me.

It is missing the topper so I will need to find one for it. The other issues is the side rails each have a dent in them in the same spot like something was dropped across it at one point or something really heavy laid across it. The dents are small and I missed them at first. Not sure if they can be hammered out or if I will just need to replace them.

Any advice on where to start with the adjustment of the T-Rex would be great. Also any links to JP mods would be great. I already have the link for the scoop light mod and I just emailed cliffy. What are some of the great mods out there? I will get some better pics up when I get a chance. These were taken at 10pm last night when I unloaded it.

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#123 5 years ago

I have a question on the sling plastics. I have a blue background on mine, but I have seen a lot with orange. Any particular reason or history on that?

#124 5 years ago
Quoted from harbngr:

Any particular reason or history on that?

My game came with a set of each.

#125 5 years ago
Quoted from Meph:

Also any links to JP mods would be great.

There are some great mods in this thread - http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/share-your-jurassic-park-mods

#126 5 years ago
Quoted from GoodToBeDad:

My game came with a set of each.

I think all came with both...I have both, like the blue better.

#127 5 years ago
Quoted from Meph:

It is missing the topper so I will need to find one for it.

Make sure you have clearance or you'll be dissapointed. Luckily mine came with one, but the ceiling in my basement is too low...

#128 5 years ago

Count me in Now, after buying one almost 2 yrs ago after it took a EMP strike, it is finally going 90%....still need to get T-Rex going, of course its nothing easy...something is smoked before the switches and new motors.......sigh.....

1 week later
#129 5 years ago
Quoted from GoodToBeDad:

My game came with a set of each.

I think those are slingshots for Jurassic Park: The Lost World machine.

#130 5 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

I think those are slingshots for Jurassic Park: The Lost World machine.

These aren't for JPLW. From what I can tell, JP shipped with two variations of the same slingshot plastics. One is blue and the other is orange.

http://jtamusements.com/store/images/De_JP_Orange_Sling_Set.jpeg
http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/images/43786_gr.jpg?language=english

1 week later
#131 5 years ago

Hey...any of you guys around? I need a picture of the small board behind the test switches....at the top center is a 2 pin connector with a gray and gray/blue wires....mine are tore off.......help...

B.

#132 5 years ago

This one?

IMAG0693.jpg
#133 5 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Good theory. Replace the switch.
See similar switch issue here:
» YouTube video

Btw, way back in this thread I posted about the trough issues I was having with the ball not depressing the switch. Replacing the switch fixed it.

#134 5 years ago

thank you sir..that be the pita....anyway old Rex is eating the ball now.... both relays were fried and the plain gray wire was yanked off the board, I had no idea where to land it, what do they call this board anyway?, its not in my manual....

I have officially been initiated into the pin from hell club this thing was a $#!!er to get going!
power supply went screwy and smoked this thing bad from one end to the other.

breaking out my new treasure cove kit tomorrow.

peace, B.

#135 5 years ago

Sorry to hear that. Mine was in mostly good health when I got it.

I believe that board would be the "Special Coil" board seen on page 49 of the manual. It drives the thumpers, slings and shaker.

#136 5 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

I think those are slingshots for Jurassic Park: The Lost World machine.

I don't know why I haven't been following this, but...

JP came with both blue and orange background slingshots. I believe blue was installed and orange came in the kit, but I'm not positive. I honestly don't know why more machines didn't do this - the plastic sheet has two sets on it because they break more often, so why wouldn't the manufacturer do two designs sometimes? In particular, games that could carry an 'adult' theme on them could be better tailored to the environment they would be in.

Ah well. Either way, blue or orange is both stock. I like blue more, personally.

#137 5 years ago

Hello joined the club this week .can someone take a pic of the ballgate leading to the pop bumpers I wanna see how it is bent .my game dont let it enter every time more like 75 /25 so im assuming I need to adjust some things. Also I looking for the blue slingshot plastics I have the red , I could trade mine or by the blue ones thax
20140609_021948.jpg20140609_020750.jpg

#138 5 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

can someone take a pic of the ballgate leading to the pop bumpers I wanna see how it is bent .my game dont let it enter every time more like 75 /25 so im assuming I need to adjust some things.

I had a constant battle with my JP not launching through this gate 100% of the time. It wasn't the gate itself that was the problem but the ball would hit the sides of it or hit a standup target while being launched.

If this is the same issue as you're having, do the following:

Remove the glass and put the game into ball trough clear mode. Pull the trigger to release the balls and watch closely where they're hitting when they go through the gate. You can slightly adjust the exit point of the ball guide from the shooter lane. The tab that screws into the playfield has a bit of play in it. Loosen it, and adjust the angle depending on whether you observed the ball hitting the top or bottom of the gate, and see if that improves your success rate of launched balls making it through the gate.

#139 5 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

Remove the glass and put the game into ball trough clear mode. Pull the trigger to release the balls and watch closely where they're hitting when they go through the gate. You can slightly adjust the exit point of the ball guide from the shooter lane. The tab that screws into the playfield has a bit of play in it. Loosen it, and adjust the angle depending on whether you observed the ball hitting the top or bottom of the gate, and see if that improves your success rate of launched balls making it through the gate.

Great advice - that's exactly what I had to do with mine. I still get the occasional failure but 90% of the time it passes through the gate and enters the pop bumpers.

#140 5 years ago

I figured it out whoever had it before me had the gate bolted on top of plastics .I put it under and its much more consistent now .looking for a few plastics also let me know what u have

1 week later
#141 5 years ago

Anyone have a tip on the upper right flipper alignment. It seems I rarely hit the loop and maybe I need to change the angle forward or back.

#142 5 years ago
Quoted from BOBCADE:

Anyone have a tip on the upper right flipper alignment. It seems I rarely hit the loop and maybe I need to change the angle forward or back.

It's just a really tough shot. You'll get better at it over time. Two loops in a row is rare, three is near impossible, four IS impossible.

#143 5 years ago

Yeah I guess that's what I meant is multi loop seems impossible. I wish that wasn't the case.

#144 5 years ago
Quoted from BOBCADE:

Yeah I guess that's what I meant is multi loop seems impossible. I wish that wasn't the case.

It clonks around the loop pretty good, it's not a smooth shape, something like HS2 for example, it's upper loop is very smooth, as is Whirlwind (which JP is highly modeled against). It is what it is, it's not an easy shot to make...and really, is it worth anything other than another chance at the paddock?

#145 5 years ago

I adjusted the rail to be smooth coming onto the flipper and it's much better now.

Any way to adjust the wireform so the ball doesn't jump out? I hate that.

#146 5 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

It clonks around the loop pretty good, it's not a smooth shape, something like HS2 for example, it's upper loop is very smooth, as is Whirlwind (which JP is highly modeled against). It is what it is, it's not an easy shot to make...and really, is it worth anything other than another chance at the paddock?

Pretty sure upper loop combos give hold bonus and hold raptor pit value or something.

#147 5 years ago

me again.....

....any of you guys hoarding spare parts?....pulled mine down for cleaning and waxing and found my upper plastic behind the right upper flipper is cracked..... ping me if you have one to let go, ebay was dry.

peace, B.

#148 5 years ago
Quoted from smoke:

me again.....
....any of you guys hoarding spare parts?....pulled mine down for cleaning and waxing and found my upper plastic behind the right upper flipper is cracked..... ping me if you have one to let go, ebay was dry.
peace, B.

I think your best bet is to buy some plexiglass and DIY a "protector" to go under the cracked plastic. My dino collar that goes around the T-REX was cracked in two and doing this made it whole.

#149 5 years ago

well its a tad more than a crack a piece is missing, I will watch for used parts later.

B.

#150 5 years ago

im joining the club friday, cant wait. jumping in blind having not played one. supposedly a nice example tha t was recently shopped but no leds. nice cab and playfield with topper. what pricepoint should i shoot for, and things to look out for?

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