(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • 7,150 posts
  • 416 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by jamex
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

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56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7150 posts in this topic. You are on page 33 of 143.
#1601 3 years ago
Quoted from Element-X:

Hey guys, I figured out a good solution for my hazy amber block - I buffed it.

20160103_174823_(resized).jpg20151221_185544_(resized).jpg

Nice improvement. What did you use?

#1602 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

The old code did it via the boat dock...it's only new for the "video" kill.

Really? ...I didn't know that. The egg too?

#1603 3 years ago

I believe the egg shot spotting the targets is new as well

#1604 3 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Nice improvement. What did you use?

My local hardware store had a 3-wheel buffing kit for use with a battery-operated drill. I did a little research on buffing and found a pretty informative article from a company called Caswell Plating.
https://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/images/Buffbook.pdf
I think I'd like to try buffing my wire form parts now, too.

#1605 3 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

I believe the egg shot spotting the targets is new as well

Does it? I didn't know the new did that too...nice!

#1606 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Does it? I didn't know the new did that too...nice!

Just went and checked the rule sheet, it does.

#1607 3 years ago

yes, the egg is the way to go now. get to super egg mania way faster too.

#1608 3 years ago

anyone know about the skill shot and waiting vs doing it quick being more points? Just don't understand if it's not more points, why shoot until you know for certain.

#1609 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

anyone know about the skill shot and waiting vs doing it quick being more points? Just don't understand if it's not more points, why shoot until you know for certain.

no difference, wait all you like.

#1610 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

anyone know about the skill shot and waiting vs doing it quick being more points?

As aobrien5 stated, no difference in points. The dino does speed up though if you wait.

#1611 3 years ago

When is de diverter of the ramp activated? It works fine but i don't know what triggers the diverter, to me it looks random.

#1612 3 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

As aobrien5 stated, no difference in points. The dino does speed up though if you wait.

Quoted from aobrien5:

no difference, wait all you like.

Thanks for confirming. Seems like there is no reason to shoot first - best to wait.

#1613 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks for confirming. Seems like there is no reason to shoot first - best to wait.

With the new code he will change his movement anyway. The only save skill shot now is when you know the dino is going straight forward (left to right) without stopping, then and only then he will come back (right to left) and don't stop. Thats the only time you know for sure what he is doing next.

#1614 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

The old code did it via the boat dock...it's only new for the "video" kill.

In the new code, it's actually a little better with the Boat Dock.

Lit Boat Dock

Original: Before first Tri-Ball, the lit Boat Dock shot will only collect one dinosaur species target even though physically hitting the same target would collect the whole group (for those that are in a group). After the first Tri-Ball, the lit Boat Dock will only collect one dinosaur species target.

Update: Before first Tri-Ball, the lit Boat Dock shot will collect the entire group of the dinosaur species targets to match the behavior had a ball hit the same target. After the first Tri-Ball, the lit Boat Dock will only collect one dinosaur species target.

Quoted from Slim64:

I believe the egg shot spotting the targets is new as well

Yep. Every time you get the Egg bonus you will also collect a dinosaur species.

1 shot to collect 5M and Species Target.
2 more shots to collect 10M and Species Target (or extra ball if the extra ball percentage achieved is low).
3 more shots to collect 15M and Species Target.
4 more shots to start Super Egg Mania.
4 more shots to collect 15M and Species Target.
4 more shots to collect 15M and Species Target.
4 more shots to collect 15M and Species Target.
4 more shots to start Super Egg Mania.
4 more shots to collect 15M and Species Target.
4 more shots to collect 15M and Species Target.
4 more shots to collect 15M and Species Target.
repeating…

Everything you ever wanted to know about the new code can be found in the Guide on this website:
http://www.pinballcode.com/

#1615 3 years ago

I have scans of a lot of plastics, PM me for link.

#1616 3 years ago

I'm still looking for blue sling plastics if anyone wants to part as I will give you my orange plus cash....

#1617 3 years ago

PM sent.

#1618 3 years ago

I need a left blue sling but would also consider a pair of blue or orange

#1619 3 years ago

Got some comments (and sortof agree) that my pop bumpers are a bit...pussy
I miss some real snap and quick action when the ball is launched into them.

Im thinking first see if I can adjust the switch leafs abit, and/or then perhaps rebuild them.
Does anyone know if its possible to get modern stern quickness in the pops if they are rebuilt?

#1620 3 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Does anyone know if its possible to get modern stern quickness in the pops if they are rebuilt?

This is a regular complaint. I know that some folks have mentioned swapping out the spoons with Williams versions. I'd try adjusting the leaf springs first though (power off - lesson learned). And, be sure to clean them. I used a business card to clean the contacts on mine and made a world of difference. After that, I dropped all notions of more drastic rebuild. Got all the liveliness I wanted.

#1621 3 years ago

Anyone looking for a very nice JP in the Dc area? I'm a hour west in Hagerstown. Pm me if interested. I have to sell the house and need to downsize.

Thanks guys,

#1622 3 years ago
Quoted from JeffA:

This is a regular complaint. I know that some folks have mentioned swapping out the spoons with Williams versions. I'd try adjusting the leaf springs first though (power off - lesson learned). And, be sure to clean them. I used a business card to clean the contacts on mine and made a world of difference. After that, I dropped all notions of more drastic rebuild. Got all the liveliness I wanted.

I swapped for the Williams spoons on mine for this very reason, however, the ones I got from Marcos looked nearly identical to the ones I replaced. I think the leaf switch adjustments made more of a difference for me. My bumpers are crazy active now - and I love it - Timmy is safe!

#1623 3 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

I swapped for the Williams spoons on mine for this very reason, however, the ones I got from Marcos looked nearly identical to the ones I replaced. I think the leaf switch adjustments made more of a difference for me. My bumpers are crazy active now - and I love it - Timmy is safe!

Make sure all of the parts are tight; if anything is loose, this robs the pops of snappiness.

Replace the spoons with B/W type spoons and add a light schmear of teflon gel to the inside of the spoon (eg SuperLube)

Clean the switch contacts with a non-abrasive method, eg rough paper wet with alcohol

Make sure the little stick is in the exact center of the spoon at rest

Gap the switch so it's barely open at rest, like a gnat's eyebrow hair width

The pop should fire at the slightest touch of the ball to the skirt. If it fires from vibration, it's gapped a smidge too close, back it open slightly until it's correct.

This is a little fiddly, but it will make a huge difference.

RussMyers

#1624 3 years ago

Thanks alot for the tips, will have a cleaning/adjustment of the pops as soon as I get to it! Will report back.

#1625 3 years ago

Sorry guys newb question, first pin. How do I get chads new 6.0 code? Do I have to buy all types of equipment to create it or do people just sell the 6.0 module at some point to add to the machine? Thanks for the help.

#1626 3 years ago
Quoted from ZMeny:

Sorry guys newb question, first pin. How do I get chads new 6.0 code? Do I have to buy all types of equipment to create it or do people just sell the 6.0 module at some point to add to the machine? Thanks for the help.

Very simple, just replace the rom. PM "johnwartjr" he will sort you out.

When you get the new rom chips turn off or unplug the machine. Either use a IC chip puller or just use a tiny flat head screw driver. You start on one end and lift then the other end and lift then pull it out. When you add the new rom chip notice the notch on the chip and the socket. It will tell you what direction you need to install the chip. Line up all the pins and make sure they are in the correct notch as well none of the pins are bent. It helps to put one row in first then bend the chip slightly to get the other row.

#1627 3 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Very simple, just replace the rom. Just PM "johnwartjr" he will sort you out.
When you get the new rom chips turn off or unplug the machine. Either use a chip puller or just use a tiny flat head screw driver. You start on one end and lift then the other end and lift then pull it out. When you add the new rom chip notice the notch on the chip and the socket. It will tell you what direction you need to install the chip. Line up all the pins and make sure they are in the correct notch as well none of the pins are bent. It helps to put one row in first then bend the chip slightly to get the other row.

I think its more than just one FYI. I think you need the sound ROM re-burned too.

Actually, I am interested in getting another set of ROMS to do this so I can go back to the old software without having to re-flash. Any one know the chips Ill need and where to get them? I have a burner.

#1628 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I think its more than just one FYI. I think you need the sound ROM re-burned too.
Actually, I am interested in getting another set of ROMS to do this so I can go back to the old software without having to re-flash. Any one know the chips Ill need and where to get them? I have a burner.

You can download the roms and burn them http://www.pinballcode.com/downloads/ or as I already mentioned above... Just buy the two rom's from johnwartjr. He will set you up with what you need.

#1629 3 years ago

johnwart will send you both ROM updates with your order. Easy.

...or what they said above

#1630 3 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

johnwart will send you both ROM updates with your order. Easy.

3rd times a charm I guess lol

#1631 3 years ago

You guys are amazing thanks!! I'm new to the hobby but I've played a lot of pins so far and JP is unbelievable, especially with the mods and features for an early 90s machine. I'm surprised it's not more popular than it is. Glad it's my first pin....until things start going wrong haha. Thanks again for the help.

#1632 3 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

You can download the roms and burn them http://www.pinballcode.com/downloads/ or as I already mentioned above... Just buy the two rom's from johnwartjr. He will set you up with what you need.

Right...but I want to keep a SEPARATE set of ROMS for this. So does any one know where to get ONLY the chips needed? Not programmed, just the chips.

#1633 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Right...but I want to keep a SEPARATE set of ROMS for this. So does any one know where to get ONLY the chips needed? Not programmed, just the chips.

John would send you new chips, not reflash your old ones. If you want to do it yourself, Great Plains Electronics is probably your best bet for blanks.

#1634 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I think you need the sound ROM re-burned too.

Sounds ROMs were untouched in v.6.00. Only the CPU and the DISPLAY ROM need to be patched.

#1635 3 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Sounds ROMs were untouched in v.6.00. Only the CPU and the DISPLAY ROM need to be patched.

Corrected!

#1636 3 years ago

Are you sure "spitter mode" was not used prior to 6.00? I used to hear it all the time with the old code.

#1637 3 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Are you sure "spitter mode" was not used prior to 6.00? I used to hear it all the time with the old code.

Wasn't used in 5.13. Instead it would just play the sound of a spitter dinosaur at the start of the mode.

#1638 3 years ago

Hello all,

Could you please help me with the setup of the rewards for our JP which we want to put to the pub? Of course one credit will be for one coin CZK 10,- which is apx USD 0,5. We used to have four balls for one credit in CZ and you can get a credit for the replay but JP has only 3 balls for the credit. What do you think that is the fair setup please? Is it OK to get 4th ball as a replay reward and then the credit for the high score and for the special? The second choice should be to get the credit after the replay and high score and EB after the special. I don´t know what is better.

But maybe it is only 3 ball game because of Missile ability which can save your ball?

Thank you very much!

#1639 3 years ago

I prefer just the usual one credit for replay, and then some credits for nr 1 and Gc.

#1640 3 years ago

As of this morning, it appears my powershed shot is not keeping the control room lit indef. S doesn't register for chaos either. However when I check the switch test and put the ball down, two switches go off and I believe I manually trigged the switch in which the ball rolls over in that clear tunnel under the table and it works. Any suggestions on what not be working that is preventing the powershed from full working (indef control room light and S for chaos)?

btw - the powershed does light up too. When the control room light is full due to it being first ball and i hit that shot, it turns the control room light off and the powershed lights up so I think electrical is fine right? Am I missing a switch to test somewhere?

on a random note - the bumpers don't change the mode lit for potential control room shot right (ala GnR) everytime they're hit right? I'm on the latest code btw.

#1641 3 years ago

delt31,

Check the diode solder joint at the Powershed switch - I've repaired mine a few times over the years. This is a common mechanical failure due the beating that area takes.

Some JPs have the diode attached right on the switch legs (like mine), others have a wire lead flying over to a remotely attached diode (probably a better approach).

Edit: Sorry, was the Control Room switch's diode for me - not Powershed. But your issue may be similar.

#1642 3 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

delt31,
Check the diode solder joint at the Powershed switch - I've repaired mine a few times over the years. This is a common mechanical failure due the beating that area takes.
Some JPs have the diode attached right on the switch legs (like mine), others have a wire lead flying over to a remotely attached diode (probably a better approach).
Edit: Sorry, was the Control Room switch's diode for me - not Powershed.

OK - mine has it attached to the legs. What do you suggest I do to attempt to repair? I've replaced switches before entirely but not adjusted diode. In my case, switch is registering so that seems fine but maybe to your point, switch could be fine but diode could be the issue?

also - I believe this is the right switch I'm looking at that would make the powershed work right. It's the one beneath the playfield in the clear tunnel that leads to the VUK that spits the ball out. That's correct?

#1643 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

OK - mine has it attached to the legs. What do you suggest I do to attempt to repair? I've replaced switches before entirely but not adjusted diode. In my case, switch is registering so that seems fine but maybe to your point, switch could be fine but diode could be the issue?
also - I believe this is the right switch I'm looking at that would make the powershed work right. It's the one beneath the playfield in the clear tunnel that leads to the VUK that spits the ball out. That's correct?

On my JP, with the cracked joint on the Control Room diode, the game does not resister hits to the control room. No other symptoms.

Inspect the joint, wiggle it, look for a loose connection on the switch leg. Touch with a soldering iron to reflow if needed.

I'd check the other CHAOS diode legs just for yucks as long as you're under the playfield.

#1644 3 years ago
Quoted from PohodaVole:

What do you think that is the fair setup please? Is it OK to get 4th ball as a replay reward and then the credit for the high score and for the special?

For me, extra ball for replay score is the best. If it's a credit, I often get it and then I don't put more money in usually. The better the player, the less they pay. But, the better the player the more likely they are willing to pay more. Because of that, I think credits aren't worth it.

In the high scores I feel slightly differently. If I get there and get a credit and have a bad game I'm more likely to put a couple coins in it to try again. Otherwise, I will generally walk after putting my initials up.

Do only one, however.

And turn match to 1 percent. The only people who understand match are the ones that will put coins in the machine anyway, so why reward them for free?

#1645 3 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

On my JP, with the cracked joint on the Control Room diode, the game does not resister hits to the control room. No other symptoms.
Inspect the joint, wiggle it, look for a loose connection on the switch leg. Touch with a soldering iron to reflow if needed.
I'd check the other CHAOS diode legs just for yucks as long as you're under the playfield.

connections look good on both legs and the diode looks good too. Did some wiggling but no luck. Again - when I manually press the switch down the game records it so I don't believe it's broken. hmmmmmm

EDIT - checked the switch I've been pressing and it says TREX through #59. Not sure that's power shed....maybe I'm looking at the wrong one? Checked #60 and that works fine too.

#1646 3 years ago

My TREX all of a sudden stopped chomping the ball when it bends down. When it goes through startup diagnostics, the jaw chomps. When I access it through the diagnostics menu, the jaw chomps when I pull the trigger. I thought it might be a switch that is activated when it lowers, but did not see one for chomping in the switch matrix.

I looked underneath, and did not see anything that is obvious, like a hanging wire. Could someone suggest where in particular I would look for the fix? Here is a pix of the mechanism, if that is useful Thanks for your help!

TREX_controls_(resized).JPG

#1647 3 years ago

Shot with my Sony camera at 60fps. Running Chad's code update. Turned out nice! Watch the whole thing, interesting ending.

#1648 3 years ago

if someone knows how the power shed at least works (e.g., what is the switch that causes the S to be registered, I can use that info to find out my problem so even that would be helpful

#1649 3 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Shot with my Sony camera at 60fps. Running Chad's code update. Turned out nice! Watch the whole thing, interesting ending.
» YouTube video

Interesting to see different players strategy and how they make their shots.

That last bounce was a doozy

#1650 3 years ago

Yeah I hit the smart missile button a fraction of a second too late. Extra ball was lit!

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