Quoted from Chitownpinball:
Sell your currnet one first? Blasphemy!
Heh. Space is 1st concern. Only have made enough space in my house to have one machine. Second would be to free up the cash to purchase another machine. I'm easing my way into the hobby.
One day I plan on having a basement or game room with a few machines.
Quoted from winteriscoming:
Spoiler alert! Don't look at that page or you'll likely see a toy of the freakin' hybrid dino that they specifically don't show in the trailer for Jurassic World...
I was hoping to see Jurassic World without any knowledge of it. I tried to avoid the trailers posted online. But no matter how much I tried to avoid it, it was still shown in other places where I couldn't help but see it.
This is how big it is. It's about 4.5 inches long, and 2.25in tall from wheel to top of roll cage.
I've added mine to my office toy shelf. Not that you need to see it. Just posting because I'm excited to finally see Jurassic World tonight.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:
I really wish some oe would make a mini barbesol can, lol.
Should also point out that my Barbesol can is one of those false can safes. Took forever to find the right can design. They changed the package design over a year ago. All I wanted was a can that looked like the one in the movie. A real can of shaving cream. But just happened to go to The Container Store, and they had this one on display. But the ones you could buy were the new style. I convinced them to sell me the display unit.
So it has a false bottom to where I can store my embryos at. But ran out of coolant.
Quoted from Daniml:
Those are 1:43 die cast from Jada. I found them the other day at Target for under $6.
If you can find them. I saw them last week in Target, but didn't grab any. Then today I decided I was going to get 2 more. All sold out at 3 different Targets I went to. But all three had the new 6-wheeled Mercedes though. Poor Mercedes. Nobody wants you.
WhooHoo! Will be joining the Jurassic Park Club very soon! You know how certain smells, music, visuals can instantly take you back? This machine does that. I was 13-14 when I played this machine. It's that age where you finally start to realize your surroundings and things start to have meaning. The movie was the single most influential movie that made me want to get into film making. Not a true filmmaker yet, but I did just finish my first short film. And without Jurassic Park, I may not be in the profession I'm in today as a Graphic Designer. So in between watching Jurassic Park on VHS and the behind the scenes tape that came with it, we'd make bi-weekly trips to the mall, where I would continuously play this machine at the arcade while my mom shopped.
I'd challenge anyone that says they've wanted this machine more than me.
I've started a list of things I'd like to do to it. I want to make it as close to original as possible. Will be replacing all bulbs with warm-while LEDs. No color-matched areas, or bright white LEDs. Again, trying to keep it as OEM looking as possible. Addon mods will be minimal. I do like the light scoop mod though. But no extra dino's in the playfield, or palm trees. Will probably upgrade the speakers. And will be replacing anything that looks like it can't be cleaned, or needs replacing like a flipper rebuild. Forgot to take note what the pop-bumpers look like.
Figured I'd probably order LEDs. The rest I just need to take inventory of what would need replacing after I get it.
My question, anyone have a fairly accurate number of bulbs it would need? How many #44's are there, how many flashers, how many #555? Didn't know if someone has an accurate count? Or at least generally how many would be needed of each?
Looking forward to getting it!
Where do we send our request for a membership card? Got my machine last night!
Needs a bit of work. The VUK doesn't shoot straight. Was working 90% of the time when I was inspecting it, and of course it works 10% of the time after I get it home. There a switch scoring points with every flipper flip. There's a target missing. A few other things need replace. And hoping the bulbs are burnt out and not a wiring issue.
But here's my main concern. It appears that this game was originally shipped over seas. I didn't know this until I got it home. The game works just fine minus the issues above, so it's obviously been converted over. Other than switching over power, were there any other differences with this game than ones meant for the states?
Quoted from winteriscoming:
Interesting! My original plan for the t-rex mod was to make a rubber skin that would fit over it.
I haven't tried it, but the top teeth I've made for my mod might work with the original t-rex shell...
Speaking of you and your T-Rex, what's the wait list look like? Not that I want to spend that much right now, since it will probably be the last thing I do to my machine, after restoring it. But it does look nice, and would like to eventually get one. Figured if it may take you a year to get through your current list, I might be interested in getting my name on there. But if it will take 3 months, then I'll just hold off until I'm ready.
OK. What's the proper way to lift the playfield? This is my first machine like this. My first one, Laser War was a single pivot point, so all you had to do is lift the front.
I managed to raise it vertically, but would need a step stool to reach the flippers. And the bottom of it is way too far to hook onto the bungy cord. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get it to go vertical and have it lower in the machine.
Are there any video's of this? Seemed like if done improperly, a lot could be smashed by the back of the cabinet while raising it.
Ok. Thanks. The regular pivot just didn't seem to go smoothly, so I stopped. I felt like I would have been forcing it, and didn't feel correct. So I'll try that again. And I did see the loop on the playfield on the right side for the bungee cord.
I only have the left foot to rest on the lock bar. Guess I'm missing the right one? Thought that maybe it was just a single foot, since I do have a single prop bar on the right.
And the third way is the way I've figured out how to get the playfield vertical. And yeah, I had to rock or twist the playfield to get it back.
So just lifting from the get-go is what I needed to do all along. Will have to get some light in the cabinet, because it just felt like it was catching on something.
Getting ready to order a bunch of parts to start restoring my JP. Sure I'll have a bunch more questions later.
Ordering rubber for it. Is it all the same? I am doing it all black like how it was. Any kits that are better than other? Also, how about Super Bands? I had them on my Laser War flippers, but wasn't sure if it was due to the bands or the ball guide, but as soon as the ball would roll down and hit the rubber, all momentum was lost and would basically come to a dead stop. Always threw me off. Super Bands or no?
OMG. Where did my money go? Just placed a couple orders for everything I'll need to make my JP minty. Well, as close as I can get it without doing a full out HEP tear down and rotisserie restore.
Will have Full LEDs. All three flipper rebuilds. Slingshot rebuilds with new switches and arms. VUK rebuild. Raptor kickback entire unit replaced. Shooter rebuild. Pop-bumper rebuild with new spoon switches and skirts and bodies. Cliffy Protectors. Latest USA CPU and Display. New rubber with Super Band flippers and posts. A couple new targets. And AnyPin Nvram.
Those are the main things. A lot of it probably doesn't need replacing. But since I plan on having this machine for a while, I figured I might as well make most of it new while I'm tearing it down.
Excited to start this project. Also having fun playing the machine as is.
Also bought a mini butane torch to polish up the ramps.
Quoted from aobrien5:
Think you're broke now, wait til you buy all the sweet mods!
Already planned. Figured blow my money now. Take a month or so restoring it. Then when I'm done, blow it all again.
Planning on the Flipper Fidelity speakers. Which, don't really know if I need. The stock ones sound pretty good already. But also came from a 1987 machine. Also planning on the scoop mods, and the gate mod. And maybe next year the TRex.
Is there anything else I'm forgetting?
Quoted from smerff:
you could paint the legs, side rails and lock down yellow or red!
Naw. That's the one thing I love about this game. That all the cabinet hardware is black. Not over the top with colors. The artwork is simple, and love the feel of the textured black as well. I like minimal design. And I think that's part of the reason why I love the JP machine. The Lost World machine never had the same feeling for me, and it's because the cabinet is a lighter color, and has a lot more going on.
3 Chips in the mail today. CPU, Display, and NVRam. Thanks John Wart Jr. and Rob Anthony! Both work flawlessly. Glad to have USA on the display instead of Japan.
Also maybe he did some sleuthing before sending it to me, but I was all ready to do the jumper myself on the AnyPin DMD. But I didn't have to, it came already jumped to the correct chip. Thanks Rob!
*edit. And yes, batteries were taken out. But a good thing too. One was starting to leak.
Would I be correct in saying that if the game says something like "Those raptors are clever." there might be a switch not working?
I noticed that the exit ramp switch wasn't getting triggered, and the ball was never diverted to the left return lane. But also noticed that when it would continue down the wire ramp to the right return lane and hit the right return lane switch, it would say that phrase about the raptors being clever.
I realized that the ball would hit the initial ramp switch, and then continue around to the wire ramp without triggering the exit switch, and then continue to the right return lane. The game never saw the ball come back down from the ramp. So I thought that was a "clever" thing they added, because it should have been impossible to make that shot if all switches were working.
But now I'm getting that dialog when the ball hits the left return lane it seems. But haven't spotted anything yet that would make it think that the ball shouldn't be in that spot. Or is that phrase commonly used in a regular game?
Quoted from dontfeed:
Going to rebuild my lower flippers this weekend. Got the parts from Pinball Life real quick (as usual). Might need some help since I've never had to rebuild any before, so this is just a heads up.
Fairly easy. Just take notes on how you took it apart, then put together in reverse order. One thing I learned was to not tighten anything down until everything is in place. Also just a very small dab of threadlocker on the screws.
Excited for this weekend. Will be tearing mine apart. I think I've played it enough to get the feel for what needs fixing, what's not working properly, and what just needs cleaning.
Question I have though, this is only my second machine, but I never saw this issue with my Laser War. I had two coils that stopped working. One of the slingshots and one of the pop bumpers. Actually, I don't recall if they stopped working, or if its been like that. But after a very easy visual find, I found that the wire snapped off on both of them. Solder still intact. They broke at the base of the solder.
Two coils. I'll have to check the rest of them, and maybe restrip the wire and resolder it to prevent it.
But has anyone run across this with their JP? Wires that just break, and not due to a cold solder joint? I was really glad it was an easy fix. Worried that the coil went bad, or was going to be much harder to track down.
Does this post serve a purpose? I've seen photos of others having this same post in the same spot. I thought it was a hack, because they lost a nut and had one of these laying around.
Makes sense. Thanks guys. So I'll make sure I return it where it was after my teardown.
Kinda like these puzzles. Tearing it down, you learn a lot more about the machine. And you find errors in how others put it back together wrong. My gate lights power cables were routed in a weird way. Left a lot exposed. Then I found the notch where they were supposed to be routed through. This machine will look so much better after I get done.
Man what a PITA changing a few of the #44 bulbs was. Especially the three next to the gate entering the pop bumpers. After changing them, I was worried that I couldn't see a possible short with the rats nest of cables right there. But man, I had to contort my fingers in ways I didn't know possible. Also have minor nicks from sharp solder points all over my fingers.
And pretty much every single #44 socket had a coat of rust on it. (Good thing I'm up on my tetanus booster.) I was worried that after changing the bulbs, I'd have to go in and clean several contacts. But so far, looks like every one of them is firing.
CAN'T WAIT to get this restoration done. It's going to look so sharp!
If you can wait 4-5 days I'll probably have mine all put back together. I put in Coin Takers frosted Warm-White LEDs. Closest thing to the real deal that I could find. The frosted dome also does a great job at diffusing the light, so you don't have any hard light or shadows occurring.
Really fills the playfield inserts with light. It's not too bright, and it's even light and with no harsh blown out areas.
What purpose do the diode on leaf switches, or any switch for that matter serve? Replaced a non-game specific target with one that belongs and noticed that the diode was improperly installed. It wasn't connected to the loop. Both wires were connected to a leaf that makes the connection. The diode was connected to one of those ends, and then connected to the third end that didn't connect to anything else. After a few minutes scratching my head trying to figure out if a loop was truly happening, I decided it wasn't and resoldered it just like the rest of the targets.
But the target technically worked without a diode. And it still works with my updated loop.
So what purpose does it serve?
*edit. Found my answer.
Just finished my "shop" job. Replaced a lot of parts. It's almost like new again. Flippers are strong. Almost too strong. But have a couple issues that developed after I did my shop job, and wondered if you guys could help me out. Maybe I need to start a new thread?
The machine worked before I started working on it, so I know I must have bumped something loose.
The Right VUK and the Autoplunger don't work. I tried to look in the manual to see if I could track down some points of contacts. It appears that they both share a common cable. But I really don't know where to look for the issues. I reflowed solder on both coils, but nothing.
Could someone take a photo of their VUK coil? Or tell me which wire goes to which end. I may have put the wires on backwards. It was the only coil I forgot to take a photo of before I took it off to rebuild the VUK.
I'm guessing the VUK and autoplunger is a connected issues.
But as I was testing out the game, the left flipper died on me. It was almost like I wasn't pushing the flipper button in far enough, or was making very weak connections. Visual inspection shows the flipper button leaf switch is making full connection. I reflowed solder on the coil itself. But was acting like the batteries dieing in a flashlight. Is this a sign of a coil going bad? Or could it be something else?
How do I check to see if I wired it backwards? I don't understand the schematics, and the direction it needs to go.
I found this post of someone that had the exact same problem. And I did put the wires back on the coil properly. I think I need to check the L/R relay. But odd that it stopped working after I rebuilt the VUK. But if that relay is close, it's possible that I might have tugged on the wire and broke the solder joint.
Any idea where this L/R relay is? I have one in the center of the underside of the playfield. It doesn't have a plastic cover on it though, like the other ones. Wonder it that's the culprit? Now this afternoon will drag on too long, cause I wanna fix this.
I found a blown fuse. Now how do you tell what it is? Don't see anything in manual, and the diagram back box doesn't go up to F8.
Any idea on the Amp and what it's a fuse for? Should solve one issue I'd think.
Stuck in a 5amp temporarily to quickly test it to see if anything worked. The auto plunger came back to life, but VUK and left flipper are still dead. Drats.
Do fuses commonly blow due to being worn out, or does a blown fuse symbolize a short somewhere?
That'd be awesome if you could check. I was thinking it was a 4a as well. But couldn't find it in the backbox or manual. Backbox only went up to f6 for that board.
I'm going to have to read up on that site bleacher bum and infinite lives posted. Apears that I really need to make sure everything is correct. That F8 fuse has obviously been blown before fairly recently. The blown one hasn't oxidized like the other ones have.
Makes me think there's more going wrong. With that, the VUK, and the left flipper.
Really wish I knew more about electronics like this.
2 down. One more to go. Fixed the flipper issue. Found someone 2 years had the same problem. Lots of suggestion, so I tried the easiest one first, and that was the issue.
Kinda feel ashamed, but glad I fixed it at least.
The flipper button leaf switch and EOS switches were brand new, so why suspect them. Ran a textured business card between the contacts, and back in business again.
So I guess new switches may have a film or oil or grease blocking full connection.
Of well. Now just the VUK. And the lots and lots of air balls. Balls hit the posts in the back and fly up over the cross over ramp and pop bumpers.
Quoted from jeffpm:
2. The left slingshot rubber juts out slightly into the left inlane and causes the ball to slow down. From what I can tell, the rubber is making contact with the upside down U shaped metal rail. Is this normal?
3. The post sleeves I received for the raptor pit, egg, and ramp are shorter than the old posts, and now they have a good amount of up and down play. Has anyone else used a Marco rubber kit and experienced the same thing?
2. I just replaced all my rubber. I noticed the slingshots that were on it originally were much thinner than what I put on. And now I know why. I had a ball get stuck in the lane because of the rubber. So I'll be looking for thinner slingshot rubbers.
3. And I bought 4 new super band post rubbers. They were shorter too. I'm going to have to measure the old ones, and get new ones the correct size.
But also, the manual is incorrect on some rubber placements. And noticed that a lot of kits follow the manual, and not the actual playfield. You probably got a 3rd slingshot rubber. The manual shows that it's supposed to go right in front of the t-rex. But I've never seen any there before.
Quoted from aobrien5:
Think maybe you just need a smaller rubber? The more it stretches, the thinner it gets.
Is there a more accurate rubber list? I know some of mine are incorrect, as I ordered per the manual, but putting them on, realized that changes had been made post-manual creation.
Would love to see someone who knows theirs is correct, post placement and correct sizes of the rubbers.
A little warning if you are dumb like me. Don't try to clean your Amber with alcohol. It will melt and get sticky.
Luckily it wasn't too bad. I had done the smart thing and hand washed it with a soapy cloth. It was crystal clear. Spotless, except for that one tiny spot on the front, directly in the center. I rubbed it with the cloth, and whatever it kept smudging more. Maybe some sticky residue that got on it from a previous time cleaning the machine?
So I thought to myself, rubbing alcohol will wipe that right off. I got my magic eraser out, cut an inch triangle piece and started rubbing. But I noticed that the Magic Eraser started to turn orange. I looked at the Amber, and it was getting all gooey. A touch of the finger, and yeah, it was sticky and I left a nice finger print in it.
I panicked. I ran it under water to hopefully stop the alcohol from eating away at it more. The stickiness became solid again. But was left with a nice big smudge in the center of it.
Not sure how to fix it, I started sanding with 2000 grit paper to see if it would polish right up with being how soft it was. It wasn't doing too much. Then I got the bright idea that it might work just like the flame polish. Nope. It burnt the raised portions of the hardened sticky goop area.
Fearing that I would have to resort to asking for a replacement here on the market place, or finding one I ebay, I spent more time sanding with the 2000 grit paper. I would sand for about 30 seconds, and get a fresh piece, and continue that process. I got it fairly smooth again. Then I got out a toothbrush and my Colgate toothpaste, the super low grit white kind, and started brushing it.
The final result is livable. Not perfectly crystal clear like it was before, but very close. I can still see a slight haze. But really, no one else will ever really notice.
So lesson learned. DONT USE ALCOHOL ON THE AMBER!
I was going to try to do the grounding test on the VUK coil to see if fires, by putting a jumper on the transistor and touching a ground.
Never done that before, so was a bit hesitant. With the power off, I put one alligator clip on the transistor. I had the other end hanging in the air, making sure it didn't touch anything. As soon as I powered it on, the F5 fuse blew. So I powered it off, and didn't try any more tests because I am out of 5amp fuses.
Did the fuse blow because of the alligator clip on the transistor, or was it just chance that it was going to probably blow the next time it was powered on? Like I said, there was nothing else connected to the other end of the alligator clip.
Quick update to my problems. I think it's now all clicked. I know some of you pointed out the transistors. And I think that's what the issue is right now. It just doesn't sink in until I am able to fully understand it and am able to see why something doesn't work.
So I think I blew a diode. I put in a new coil that came with the VUK kit. But didn't realize that the new coil had the diode installed backwards compared to the one that came with the machine. So I installed the wires the same way they were on before. Which blew the diode. Which made the coil test bad.
In the process it blew F8. Having figured out the diode was bad, and actually figuring out from the schematics how the diode is supposed to go, I re-installed the new coil with a new diode. Put the cables back on. Turned on the machine, and the coil was locked on until the F8 fuse blew a few seconds later.
Tested the transistors, and confirmed that the transistor for that coil was testing MUCH lower than the others.
So hopefully will be picking up a new transistor today and replacing it. And fingers crossed, will have a working JP again. Then I can show you all the cool photos of my "Shop" job.
Quoted from GRB1959:
Does anyone reproduce the following small strip of a sticker circled in RED in the T-Rex Paddock?
I searched. The closest I found was Bay Area Amusements that were pretty much sold out of all those stickers. I ended up just removing mine, and polishing up that piece to a nice smooth shine.
I kinda like the orange monotone color. If they were to do a Color DMD, I'd want it to be simple. Very minimal use of color. 3-4 different colors tops. I've seen some where they use every primary color. Looked too much like a childrens coloring book. But if they could do very subtle tones, I'd be all for it.
When I unloaded mine, an 8-10 year old kid was walking by, and said "Hey, that says Jurassic Park. Is that Jurassic World?"
Then he went on to ask about what that dinosaur was that they brought out at the end. I wanted to say, "Are you serious?"
Quoted from winteriscoming:
Why would you want a JP3 icon on your flippers?
Saw those. At first thought, I thought they messed up which game they were meant for. Then realized, they didn't make a JP3 machine.
Fixed my machine. Will try to remember to take and post some photos tonight. The machine looks NICE! A bit brighter with the warm white LEDs, but at least no dark spot in the center of the playfield.
About the only thing that needs tweaking are my slingshots, the ball doesn't bounce like I'd think it should. At first I had the leaf switches super sensitive. But then gapped them a little more, since I figured the ball wasn't being hit very hard because the arm was pre-maturly firing before it was able to make a solid impact with the ball. But now with the larger gap in leaf switches, it still isn't firing too hard away. And takes more force to trigger the leaf switch.
The slingshots were completely rebuilt. New coil sleeve. New coil core. New arms. But after this replacement, it acts like it did before the rebuild. I wanted super sensitive, super flingy slingshots, and I just don't have that.
Also the left bunker scoop doesn't fire the ball out too fast. Was hoping for a quicker return. I rebuilt that coil as well.
I was hoping to get to current Stern slingshottyness. But its not happening. Not sure what the difference would be. Like I said, pretty much everything except for the coil is new. Maybe the coils just aren't that powerful?
This thread is getting dull. How about some photos to look at?
Tons of things fixed, replaced, and cleaned.
- LEDs throughout. Including all flashers. (all warm-white frosted from Cointaker.)
- Rebuilt Flippers.
- Rebuilt Slingshots
- New VUK
- New Raptor kickback
- New autoplunger plunger
- AnyPin NVram
- Updated to latest USA software. Was Japan
- Rebuilt pop bumpers. Used black skirts to blend in. But now I think I should have gone with blue.
- New Coil Sleeves and springs on everything else.
- Replaced Egg target
- Replaced one target that wasn't machine correct
- Added back one target that was never there
- Added spotlight cone to "Shoot t-rex box"
- Loop Combo Scoop Mod
- GoodtobeDad Gate
- New rubber throughout.
- Washed every piece of plastic with soap and water
- Flame polished ramp and subway
- Polished up metal guide rails throughout. Some were very oxidized.
- Flipped back around t-gate. Before it would block the ball from the shooter lane from entering pop-bumpers.
- Replaced a few posts
- Replaced non-standard ball eject saucer
- *Next Week* Will be adding light to T-Rex saucer and lighting up scoops from underside.
Quoted from accidental:
If you've got new parts all around then I'm sure you've already done this but replacing or cleaning your slingshot leaf switches makes a difference too (at least I thought it did, but I could have been imagining it!). My theory is that the faster the switch activates once a ball hits it, the more energy the ball receives from the slingshot arm.
Leaf switches on sling shots are brand new. But cleaning them is a good idea. Hadn't thought about that. But should have, because my brand new left flipper button leaf switch had problems too with connectivity.
Thanks. The idea was to put the focus on the ball and the lit caps. Concealing the actual switch. The closest color on the playfield next to those pop bumpers is black. So figured black would hide really well. And it does. But really wish those things were easy to swap out, because I'd like to see what other colors look like.
But I like them enough to not change them.
Anyone upgrade their speakers on JP? Was it worth it? It was something I thought I was going to do, but was wondering if the source files are even good enough to use better speakers. And my subwoofer already seems like it has pretty good bass.
Another question. Anyone know what spring this is? The part number shows no results on Pinball Life or Marcos. I replaced it with something else, but isn't strong enough. The ball keeps falling from the wire ramp. After some careful watching, I noticed that when the ball is traveling faster, it hits the diverter arm, and moves it just enough so that it's not a smooth transition, and knocks itself off the tracks. Was thinking of doubling up springs on it.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:
I would love a video to prove it before I spend the dough
A video would be very hard to tell. Would depend on the mic the audio is recorded on, and the speakers your playing it back through. So end the end, both the old and new speakers may end up sounding quite similar in a video.
The closest thing I can think of to test with, is Virtual Pinball. I could plug my high end speakers into my computer to see if the sound quality is better than what's coming out of the machine. But even then, I wouldn't be able to tell if the replacement speakers would be able to reproduce the previewed quality.
I think the true way is either hear it for yourself. Or get a trusted person to respond.
Almost almost finished putting final touches on my JP. Hopeing to maybe put together an accurate list of how many bulbs and what types you'll need, for those who want to build their own LED kits. Also planning on making a better list of rubbers too. The manual is incorrect, so that means all pre-assembled kits are wrong too.
But was doing some tweaking to my light scoop mod last night, testing different bulbs. And boy, don't bother with the Coin Taker Cool White "Wide" bulbs. They were too dim to really notice.
But am kicking myself for making a very dumb mistake. One that I've been trying very carefully to avoid. I snapped the plastic where the light bar mounts on the upper right scoop, next to the gate. Was trying to reposition where the lights were aimed at the scoop mod, and *Snap*. Clean break. I think I have an idea on how to fix it. Take some transparency paper, cut it to the size of the plastic, and glue a piece on top and bottom. Hopefully that will reinforce it, and keep it strong enough to hold the lights up.
Quoted from accidental:
What plastic did you break?
The Power Shed Lights. It's just a tiny sliver of plastic that's broken off.
When I was taking off the plastic, I didn't realize that the lights were mounted directly to the plastic. I knew they'd be more prone to snapping, and was extra careful when taking the playfield apart.
Power Shed plastic fix was relatively easy and pain free. I ended up making a duplicate to place underneath and mount the lights to. Did it in one shot, using only a handheld Dremel. The hardest part was convincing myself that it will fit better if I move the light back a tad. Which meant that I had to modify my broken plastic. Fits like a glove. And if you didn't know what you were looking for, you'd never notice it.
Quoted from ScottoKong:
The top of my ball trough is pretty worn - looks like every ball hits it.
I just smoothed mine out. Looks like yours has some rust/oxidation? Clean that up for sure. But I wasn't worried about it, as long as I didn't feel any edges on mine. It's probably better for the balls now than it was new.
Anyone have any luck with Non-Ghosting Bulbs? The only issue with Ghosting that I see, is the C in CHAOS when the spitter dino targets are on or flashing. So I replaced this bulb with a non-ghosting bulb from Coin Taker, and it has made no difference. Should I change the spitter target lights as well? Or is the idea of Non-Ghosting bulbs a myth?
Quoted from aobrien5:
Definitely not a myth. Are you sure it's not just light bleeding in from the spitter bulbs themselves? You sure it's the C that's ghosting?
Could be I suppose. But the C just seemed too bright and evenly filled to be leaking from another light. Seems about 50% brightness to when the bulb is actually on. I'll do a test tonight, and pull that bulb out completely to see if it is a ghosting issue, or light leaking.
Quoted from aobrien5:
Anyone else ever have music from Chaos stay on after the five extra balls have drained (so only one is left in play and Chaos is over)?
Happens to me all the time. Regular Multiball music too. Figured it was just a bug. Starting another mode also "fixes" it.
Last night I got the System Boot mode. Either it was strange timing with a bug, or the ball screwed it up. I had a hard shot to the left edge of the center scoop. The ball hit hard but didn't go in the scoop. But at that exact moment of the hit, all sounds stopped, and lights stopped flashing. It was dead silent with no light activity while I continued to play. After that ball drained, all went back to normal.
Quoted from GRB1959:
may have jarred the scoop metal to touch an adjacent metal tab from a light socket.
Could possibly be. I'll have to double check. I did move the scoops back for the cliffys. And does remind me last week during a friends game, he got the slam tilt message. I was standing right there, and knew it wasn't activated like it should have been. But then forgot all about it, because it never happened again.
Looks like I'll be looking for a short then tonight.
Ok. So ghosting issue was due to light from the adjacent target. Sheesh. Been waiting for bulbs to come in for a week to finish this up so I could call it done. I think tonight I'm going to staple a business card between the two inserts to block the light.
I took a look at all the connections around the scoop to see if I could see a short. I didn't find anything for certain, but did see on one switch, one of the wires was literally hanging on by a thread. I barely had to touch it, and it snapped clean off. So I resoldered that back on. So hopefully that may have been it. Because I see nothing else.
Tonight I'm adding a couple palm trees, waxing the playfield, putting the glass back on, and shoving it into its corner, where I hope that I won't have to open it back up for a while.
Not sure how PDFs post here on the forum, but here are ones for TOKENS, $.25, and one with just the JP logo for those who have free play.
These will be to scale and also have bleeds so that you won't have white slivers when cutting them out. Just cut using the crop marks. (Exact-o knife and metal edge ruler will be best.) I also printed mine on High Glossy paper with the highest quality setting on the printer, and they turned out great.
Think I discovered a bug. I don't believe this was due to a faulty switch, because the game played like normal after the a drain.
But I know I did some things at coincidental times, and I think it confused the game. Part of it was Mr. DNA, and also getting tri-ball I think. But every single light on the playfield was flashing, and it kept acting like I was RAPIDLY firing shots up the ramp. It kept counting down the ramp shots, then would tell me EXTRA BALL IS LIT. It probably said extra ball 10 times in about 20-30 seconds. I hit the extra ball, and it only gave me 1.
But it was weird. After the drain, everything back to normal. The ramp switches weren't activated. So I think it was a bug. But boy it was a crazy bug. Machine went haywire.
That's interesting. Thanks! Looking at the switch matrix, one thing stands out to me, right coin switch. I only have one coin slot, and I think the one hooked up is the center coin. But I know when I do switch tests, it always says the right coin is triggered.
Could this also be the problem as to why my game will cut out background music? Game will continue to play, but background sounds will cut, and will get the occasional repeating cut off dino roar.
Quoted from jeffpm:
Is there a chance your game was on route with a dollar bill acceptor? I think mine was, and both of my coin slots were wired together so either slot would register as the right slot.
The game was in Japan. I'll have to take a closer look to see if I can see any signs of the coin door having been replaced, because it's just a single coin slot with no other areas left open for a bill acceptor. And since it works with my coin mech, I never bothered to track down to see why the right coin was triggered. But in the menu, all my tokens are being registered with the center coin slot.
The more I look at it, the more I think it may be the Right Coin. It's only happened once, but I encountered a slam tilt when nothing should have caused it. I looked at the slam tilt, and there would have absolutely no way it could have activated on its own, but has happened only once. But not I see it's in the same column at the right coin.
Quoted from boogies:
I just finished a "Shoot T-Rex" mod
Did that on mine as well. Saw that TNT Amusements added the light under the saucer, but connected it to the GI lights. I was thinking it'd make much more sense if the saucer also blinked with the Feed T-Rex Light. So I left my OEM T-Rex light, and wired the saucer light into it.
It makes that shot much more visible now if there was any question on if you needed to shoot the t-rex.
Has anyone added a light to light the inside of the scoops? Was thinking that it would be cool to add a light connected to the regular scoop light, to light up the inside of the hole. But taking a close look at it, I don't see an easy way to get a good shot of light inside of it, unless I were to drill a hole through the subway metal.
Was just wondering how people do it on other games?
Quoted from koops:
Aren't there normally small cracks between the scoop sides? I would have thought a bright smd led would shine enough into the scoop to look like its inside when it isn't.
I haven't tested it, but just seemed that the angle it would have to be pointed, would also light up the second scoop for the Bunker/Control Room scoops. And I suppose I wanted an even spread of light filling the scoop, which would mean that the light would have to be pointed directly into it.
I may do some tests with the available cracks just to see what it looks like. Might work.
I bought some 44 sockets from Marco's, they were crap. Try to bend them in place, and the support snaps at the fold. I ended up pulling off an old 44 socket from an old playfield I had sitting around to be able to angle the light into the socket just right.
I had noticed the targets just seem like bad design. Seems like the metal should be bent in a way that shouldn't allow the target to get that much off center.
Not an expert on the legality of this, but my understanding would be that there would be legal issues if the intent was to distribute. Modifying it for your own personal use may be frowned upon, but is doable. But to distribute to the masses is where legal stuff comes in. Especially if there's any money to be traded, even if it is to cover only the cost of the chips.
And you're talking about patent. Patent and copyright are different things. Copyrights cover creative licenses. So would include any artwork, animation, sounds used in the game. An expired patent just means that you could use that technology to create your own original work.
I may be wrong, but that's how I see it.
*EDIT* Now if Chad was to create something similar to BoP 2.0, then he'd be able to do it. As long as he used all new artwork and sounds. But from what I've seen, he's just tweaking the rules, everything else is staying the same.
Quoted from accidental:
He doesn't owe us anything so would only have something to lose by releasing it now outside of any agreement.
Exactly. This is a 20 year old game. How many other 20 year old games are getting new code? Would love to see it in mine, but if it never comes, I'm happy with the latest final release.
Got to my first System Failure last night and had my second best score so far. Kinda hard to beat my accidental 1.2 billion.
But this game started off as a terrible game. I was going to to just play a single game before bed. First two balls almost instantly drained. I did get Stampede during one of those though, but quickly lost the ball. On the third ball though, I lit the Extra Ball, and then Started System boot. But again, was doing terribly. The ball quickly shot to an outlane, and I somehow was able to press the Smart Missile button before it got disabled. So with one button press I got an extra ball, completed system boot, and started tri-ball.
And at that point I was unstoppable. Couldn't get CHAOS since I had already used my Smart Missile button. But kept lighting all the modes and hitting them. I did get a second extra ball after I hit the Feed T-Rex shot. It put me over the 195 Million I have set to get another extra ball.
So here it was supposed to be a quick game. A game I thought was going to end after only flipping just a couple times before the final drain of the third ball. I think the game was going to end with only a score of about 30 million if it wasn't for the Smart Missile. The System Failure mode is fun. If I didn't know what to expect, I probably would have thought my DMD was going bad.
But this score I feel more proud of. I finally knew what I was supposed to do. My 1.2 billion score was a total fluke. I had no idea what the rules were, I just knew tri-ball was good, and to spell CHAOS, after that, I tried to keep the balls in play, wasn't looking for shots.
I think that proves that they still own it. I'm really surprised a lot of these mods sold by individuals get away with it. But I'm sure what they are making from their mods isn't worth the trouble in going after. I wouldn't be surprised if some people have received cease and desist letters for using logos and other copyrighted imagery in their mods. (Small fact. I've received a cease and desist letter from the City of New York. I run an eCommerce site and sold items that the city of New York used to sell. They told me I needed a license to sell those products, and that I was falsely claiming they were authentic because they didn't personally inspect those items to make sure they were. I filed for a licenses and was denied because my price point was too low. So now I cannot sell this product any more. But have had no issues with other city's. I really see no legal ground for New York, but it's just me vs. a large city, so I'm not going to push it.)
Stern isn't re-making old parts because their just isn't much of a demand. It may look like it from your side, but from their's I'm sure they wouldn't remake a part unless they could easily sell 1000 pieces. And since we don't see anyone else remaking these parts, kinda also proves that Stern still own the rights. Maybe they are going after the little guys trying to reproduce these things on their own. Which also means Stern isn't selling licenses to smaller vendors either.
Has anything been changed with the attract mode? Didn't see anything in the log, so guessing not. Just seems that a couple insert lights were forgotten about when the lights cycle through. Some don't light one direction, and other don't light the other direction. When I got my machine, I used the attract mode to see which bulbs were burnt out. Took me a minute to realize that they didn't light some times.
Quoted from GRB1959:
Did you ever hear if the attract mode lighting has changed with the ROM update or is it merely coincidental and something else is causing your issue?
Never heard. And am pretty sure it's the software. I went back and watched Chad's video talking about the change he made with the tri-ball, and you can see in the video the "H" in CHAOS doesn't light when the lights are cycling one direction, but does in the other direction. There's a few lights like this.
For those who have the new code, how are your game scores? Higher, lower, about the same?
My VUK affected my MPU board and the PPB Board. Everybody kept saying to check the transistors on the MPU board, but never mentioned anything on the PPB Board. I fixed the issue with the MPU board, but was still blowing fuses. I looked at the schematics and saw that the VUk also had some stuff on the PPB board. Replaced those parts, and all was working. So you may have issues on both boards.
Don't rule it out just yet.
Anyone else completely obsessed with this pin as much as I am? heh. No. Okay.
Just the perfect storm of what I grew up with. I could see myself obsessed with a different pin if that's all that I had to play at out local arcade.
But had been thinking that since my Shop job is pretty much done, I kinda want to shop out another one (another JP that is), but only push it even further. Like High End Pin further. Like strip the whole playfield front and back. Polish, tumble, replace everything. Make it as new as possible.
Now that I have my one to play, thought it'd be fun to restore another one and take my time.
And I'm guessing this is how the pinball addition starts.
Few things. At first glance, it says it's HUO. But seems that there's been some repairs to it. Speaker Grills aren't OEM. Pop bumper caps aren't OEM. It's missing the right side plastic guard just above the VUK.
But one thing that stands out is that it say "1 Smart Bomb Per Game." Bomb. Missile is the common one. There was a guy selling a NOS playfield that says Smart Bomb. Said he confirmed that it was a later production playfield.
But there's other stuff with the playfield that look too much like they were on purpose. And was wondering if this later production made these changes.
The posts around the slingshots are all metal. This one seems to have added the right outlane post. The right wireform actually has an OEM mounted plate with a hole in it to mount rubber too. I say OEM, because I don't see any messy weld marks, and it looks straight. There is a post infront of the left Egg Post in front of the TRex. (which would completely block the ball from feeding trex after hitting the egg. I love that shot.) And the playfield art of the Jurassic Park sign in front of the ramp isn't covered up by the ramp guide.
Just find it curious. Was this a really late JP, and they ran out of parts and threw this one together? Love that the wireform has a stopper on it, instead of just the two prongs. Just seems a bit odd some of the changes that were made.
Quoted from Slim64:
How far up/down
About centered. They are the Super Bands Brand. I think I have the rounded part facing down. So that if anything, when the ball hits it, it at least pushes it up if it moves. Instead of down and eventually off. But after about 150 plays, it looks like they are still in the exact same spot.
Just do a trial and error. Drop the ball down the wireform, and see how it bounces off. Make sure to add a little speed to it to be more accurate.
Here's a photo of my wire ramp with the post bumpers for those who wanted to see it. But I lied. The rounded part is facing up. But in the few months I've had it like this, they haven't budged.
Anyone have this kind of issue with their Cliffys? If you look closely, you can see it's starting to tear/break apart. This looks like it's due to the target's lateral movement which has caught an edge, and not a manufacturing defect. Emailed Cliff about the problem to see about getting a replacement.
Quoted from accidental:
I hope that makes sense?
Makes sense. Was my thought as well. Figured double forces working against it. The target is obviously caught on it, and pushes towards the cliffy when hit, and obviously the wear already with the hole. And after I installed the cliffys, I wondered if it would dent causing the metal to bubble up and not lay flat against the playfield. Didn't think it would actually break it.
Quoted from pinballholder:
What a dramatic improvement,
Just got mine today too. Although I thought I got jipped because my first mode was stampede. but did randomize the other games.
Played a few games but haven't noticed a whole lot of difference. My games weren't that great anyways. Did notice tri-ball is harder to get. I like the shoot again letting you know the ball will be saved. The random rapter skill shot doesnt seem too random. About 70% of the time it seemed like it was the non-pausing rapter. And other than that, I'll have to spend more time with it to notice more.
But it's pretty cool that we have new code for a 20 year old game.
Shame I had to wipe my 1.2 billion score. at least I have a photo of it.
Anyone have any suggestions for stopping, or at least minimizing airballs? The 4 rubber posts from the egg shot to the ramp are the worst offenders. I've installed Superband rubbers there. But boy, I'm getting crazy air balls. Enough to fly to the back part of the plastic covering the egg target, enough to fly over the pop bumpers, and jump over or land in the wire form ramp. And it's usually several per game.
Is it that the rubbers are too bouncy? Should I install standard post rubber there?
Quoted from winteriscoming:
I installed Cliffy posts when I had mine and didn't have any issues.
I didn't realize Cliffy made post rubber. Will have to check out. Only $1 per piece. Not bad.
Got thinking, I'm wondering if it's a combination of two things. The Superband flipper rubbers and the posts. I'm wondering if there's too much grip on both. The ball is spinning when it comes off the flipper, and when it hits the post, that spin momentum is what launches it into the air. Which may account for all the different directions the ball goes, despite coming from one general area.
Noticed my machine is already getting dirt tracks down the lanes, so I'm going to have to open it up soon. Will check to see how tacky those rubbers are.
Quoted from gamera9:
It worked with the old code
But what Winteriscoming is saying, are all the variables the same? The new code will reset all the option to the default setting. Your old code may have had some options turned off.
Try the self test like he says. You can use the flipper buttons to move it side to side, and maybe the trigger I think to bend the TRex down? or maybe thats the comping movement? I don't know, get to that diagnostic screen and push buttons and see what happens.
*edit. It's not the code that seems to be the problem, because it doesn't sound like any of us have that issue. What it sounds like Winteriscoming is saying, is that you may have had Left/Right movement turned off before. With the new code, it will turn back on. Maybe your Rex is able to go one direction, but maybe not the other, so it hasn't landed back onto the center switch, which would tell the game that the TRex can eat the ball.
Quoted from gamera9:
Any other suggestions?
Does the game search for balls? If the game thinks there's a ball missing, it may think it's on the playfield, which may prevent it from eating the ball, because it doesn't want the second ball to smash the dino head.
Was that suggested before? Seems like I read something like that. Other than that, I have no ideas.
Maybe do another factory reset of all the settings and memory? If it started with the new software, maybe something messed up. Also try swapping back in the old software. Time to narrow down, and eliminate options.
Mine came with the blue installed. I picked up a mint orange set, still in the plastic wrap that included the keychain plastic, at the Expo for $15. He had several more sets. If I didn't pay cash, picked up a business card, or remembered who he was, I'd send you the info.
How does one force the ball to stay on the wire crossover ramp? About 50% of the time, mine falls off. The culprit seems to be that there is too much space between the diverter and the plastic part of the ramp that cuts over to the wire form. At first I thought it was too much speed from the ball hitting the diverter, making it an un-even transfer. But I stiffened up the spring considerably to stop any unwanted movement from the diverter when hit, and still does it.
Thoughts? Suggestions? Makes me wonder why there wasn't some sort of edge catch on the wireform to stop that from happening.
I'll have to check the coils to see if they were replaced with too strong of ones. The flippers do seem strong, but only after a standard rebuild. Before they seemed too weak. Coils themselves were left alone.
You were on V4 before? Sounds like they made those changes in v5, because I notice no difference in those things from the latest official code to v6.
Starting to work on my list of fixes in prep for my TRex. Ordered new support brackets. Mine only came with one installed. And of course I fudged it up, and ripped it out on accident.
Below is a photo of my underplayfield. I am having a hard time trying to figure out where I should mount them. I don't really see any perfectly even spots. With the 4 holes for the upgraded Mantis Amusements brackets, it's limiting spots they can go. But you can see the drill holes for my old one on the left, next to the left outlane switch. It ripped up a bit of the underside wood. But if you look across to the right, I don't see any holes where that one would have been mounted at. There are a couple hole that look like pilot holes, but doesn't look like anything was screwed in.
Anyone have the Mantis legs installed? Can you share a photo of where you mounted yours?
Also, I'm guessing this subway has been modified? The metal mounting brackets look like they were added. Especially since one looks like it has a worn out checker pattern on the inside. I'm having a problem with the VUK, that sometimes it will miss a shot, and the ball will roll back to the middle of the subway and not have enough angle to roll back to the VUK. It will just stay stuck in the center. The first time it happened, I looked all over for the missing ball. It vanished. Took me about 10 minutes to think about checking the subway. I use a magnet to pull it back to the VUK. I need to try and figure out how much more I can make the end lower without running into the VUK and stopping it from catching the ball.
I'll have to take a look at spacing. But I messed the old one up because I moved the tilt up about 1/2in in the cabinet because it was previously ripped out. The support kept hitting it when the playfield was lowered. I tried the bend the support just enough to clear the tilt, but ended up ripping it off the playfield. I guess I'll have to re-fill and reposition the tilt back lower in its old spot if I want to keep the left brace in the same spot.
Also, I don't think the subway is affecting how VUK kicks up the ball. I think I have two issues going on. The VUK works about 80% of the time on the first try. And of the 20%, it usually is able to re-kick it back up about 10% of the time. But every once in a while, when the ball goes back down, it get bounced back into the subway, to which it doesn't have enough angle to roll it back to the VUK. My playfield is set to 6.5 degrees. So it has to be the angle at which the subway is mounted. Which is probably due to the hack of the mounting hardware.
I have an idea to the 20% missed first shots. I try to look at other people's VUK wireform, and I see one thing different with mine. I seem to have about 1/8th inch spacer/washer between it and the playfield. It doesn't block the hole, but wondering if by lifting the wireramp up that much, it's causing the ball to hit the wireramp in a awkward spot towards the bend, causing it to come back down. Might be a good use for the iPhone 6's slow mo camera. But will have to invite a friend over for that, because I have an android that simulates slowmo.
Heh. Talking to myself this morning.
Picked up 4 Cliffy posts rubber at the Chicago Expo. They didn't have black, so I picked up grey/silver. But man, what a difference from them to the Super Bands posts. It completely deadens the shot. Only played a test game on it, but the ball doesn't seem like it will have a chance to jump completely over the pop bumpers once it hits those.
But still having jumping issues with the other Super Band rubber I have in the game. Even during this test game, I had a ball jump over the flipper and drain. That rarely happens.
Quoted from NFK:
BTW found this and thought it would be great mod if this is on the "Shoot T-Rex when lite" sign next to the T-Rex:
Thats pretty cool. Didn't the raptor cage at the very beginning of the movie have those type of lights on them? Would be a cool mod to design a cage to stick over the raptor pit.
Been doing some general maintenance, and noticed that the left metal guide into the raptor pit snapped off it's tab closer to the opening of the pit. I know I've seen someone else saying one of their guides broke.
Do they make replacements? And fixes? Luckily, doing a test with the ball, it doesn't look like it will run across the exposed metal edge. It clears it just enough. There's a nail stuck in the playfield between the egg shot and the raptor pit that restricts the metal guide from being pushed out too far.
But sheesh. Went all this time, and as soon as I get a hold of it, it breaks. I was wondering how it was holding up. There's been some solid shots that bounce in the entry of the raptor pit. Now I know, it didn't hold up.
Thought. Could it be possible to scratch up the ends, and put a bead line of solder? or would you think it's break up after a while?
Was kinda thinking. What about making a small L-shaped piece that will be a bit smaller than the width of the tab, and only maybe an 1/8in tall, and then JB Weld it as a support to that tab? JB Weld has like a 1500 lbs of pressure strength, right? Think that would hold up to the bashing of the ball?
I've used JB Weld on a project before, and gave it a good "trying to rip this out, without actually ripping it out, test." and felt like the joint was much more secure than the rest of the piece, and if anything were to fail, it would be right where the JB Weld ended.
Then as added security, maybe a layer of Gorilla Glue. So that if the JB Weld does crack and break into pieces. The Gorilla Glue will hold it in place. Don't want to hack pieces. But for something this small and out of sight, I'd like to avoid actual welding for the spots, like accidental mentioned. (edit: hah, realized that your username isn't actually LoopCombo. )
Now before you replace that switch, just make sure one of the wires hasn't come off. That's the exact same problem Griz had with his. Switch may be perfectly fine, which his was. Just re soldered back on, and good to go.
EDIT. Okay, everything has been mentioned. Seems like a lot of first suggestions are to replace stuff that doesn't need replacing. Start with the lowest common denominators first, which are always the cheapest.
Quoted from phollibone:
Is someone able to take a photo of this switch when they get a chance and post it up so I can see how it is supposed to be hooked up?
I would because I'm currently working under the playfield on mine, but that switch on mine is coated in a rubbery foam concealing what the wires are actually hooked up to. Guessing they had the same problem, and didn't want it to happen again.
But actually, it will be very similar to the one to the left of it. Basicly, if you take a look at it now, I believe all you'd need to do is take the broken end of the diode, and swing it over to the far right side, like the left switch on that subway.
Quoted from accidental:
And it sucks. So quiet. I moved mine to make it louder. If you're putting in a new one I'd try putting it in the head like B/W titles for a satisfying knocker sound.
I replaced the core on mine because I thought that maybe it became quiet over time. Nope. Just quiet in general. My Laser War had a knocker in the upper right of the head, so DE used to have them up there at one point.
Installed some Cliffy Posts Rubbers this weekend, and it pretty much eliminated all jumping air balls. I had some wicked flights with some balls too. But the Cliffy Posts deaden the shot significantly. Kinda wish it bounced off a little more, but will take this over what it was doing before with the Super Band posts.
Just thought I'd let people know that there is a major difference, incase they are getting the same results with Super Bands.
I don't have that on mine. I'd think it's safe to remove. Doesn't need support. EDIT, and Replace as aobrien5 suggests it was probably used as a nut.
Quoted from markp99:
Gord, I'm curious the purpose of the white rubber on the "Shoot TRex When Lit" feature.
Guessing to stop balls from being trapped in there?
That's interesting about that "support" post. Never noticed any of those in all the photos I've looked at. It's gotta be from the factory, right, if that many of you have them? Wonder what the purpose was? To better support the plastic ramp lane that goes to the Left Return lane?
Quoted from markp99:
but include a tiny adhesive-backed felt button atop
Wonder if there are any rubber grommets that would be able to fit in there. That'd stop that rattle.
Yesterday I had my cousin, her husband, and their 7 year old twins come over to watch my short film. (Onyx Window, http://www.imdb.com/title/tt4453466/ )
My cousin and her husband are both movie people, and knew they'd love to play pinball no matter what machine I had. But I wasn't sure about the boy and girl twins. They hadn't seen any of the Jurassic Parks, and have probably never even seen a pinball machine, so I was curious as to how they'd like it.
First, it was entertaining just letting them try to figure out how to start it. I have mine set for 2 tokens, so I point them to the jar of tokens, tell them it takes 2, and just let them try to figure it out. Surprisingly, I didn't expect them to not know where the tokens went. It didn't take them long, but wasn't instinctive. And yeah, they've probably never seen an arcade machine either. Not sure if they've been to Dave & Busters, or any place they accepts swipe card.
It was fun watching two kids play something they've never seen before. They played it for a good 45 minutes before the pizza arrived, and then, like how I used to be with McDonalds PlayLand, I couldn't eat fast enough to get back to playing.
They loved the TRex. The boy had to keep running out to tell us every time the TRex ate the ball.
But with the Minecraft generation, I wasn't sure how they'd see a pinball machine. Was that now below them? Would they be bored after a few minutes? Nope. They didn't want to leave.
Quoted from Element-X:
I'm working on a project JP, and I'm currently in the middle of reinstalling the playfield parts. I've got a question about the amber block with the mosquito inside. I pulled it out of the tub and noticed after a quick scrub with the dish brush that the front surface is horribly ghosted and faded looking. Can anybody tell me what material this is and how to polish it? Should I use a wheel or a flame? I also noticed that the front of it is dished in, it's not flat like I thought it was. Can somebody here confirm the shape for me? I hope I didn't ruin the piece.
DO NOT use Alcohol or flame polish it! Alcohol will slowly melt or eat at it. And Flame polishing will only burn it. I made this mistake. I had a bit of tacky residue from something on mine in the tiniest of spots. Thought alcohol would clean it right up. I started noticing the rag became orange where it was rubbing on the amber, and then noticed that the amber was smearing. So I tried to flame polish it, and the imperfection bumps made from the alcohol started to burn on the tips, and made no difference to the clarity.
I was finally able to get it back to about 75% clarity by stepping up sand paper. 400, 600, 1000, 2000. Still isn't as shiny as it was, but unnoticeable to anyone not familiar with the game.
Anyone know where I should start with a sound issue? I've checked the ribbon cables I'm about 90% sure it's not them. I do have new ones on the way though just in case.
The sound will cut out, and random sound effects will play and cut out. For every ball drain, the sound starts over and plays normal, but then cuts out soon after.
I'm almost certain that it's a short happening though. It did this shortly after I got the machine, but then didn't act up for a while, so I left it alone. But just recently I moved the machine to take the glass off, and the problem as returned. BUT, I may be closer to figuring it out. I lifted up the playfield to see if I could spot anything, which I didn't. But I noticed after that, the sound didn't cut out.
I haven't fully tested it, but I'm wondering if the harness moving with the playfield eliminated the short? Anyone have any suggestions on where to start? Would a short with a switch or light, or coil cause these sound issues?
Quoted from Crash:
the solution was to reseat the 12v power connector on the CPU board.
Hmm. Interesting. Could be the issue. I'm fuzzy on the details of when it happened, but was something that seemed to pop up towards the end of my restoration. Which would have been after I took the CPU board off to fix some TIPs. I'll check it out. Thanks.
BTW, Crash. Does MCO mean anything to you? Used to know a Crash from a 2003-ish message board.
I believe the backbox is 29 inches wide. That was the only dimension I cared about, since my doorframe is 29.5 inches.
I almost did that I mine. I forgot to take a photo of the sockets before pulling the old one out. I grabbed the new one and went to put it in, and froze. "Shit, which one did I just pull the old one out of?" I tried to replay my actions in my head, but my DVR didn't record it. So I dug through all my photos I had taken up to that point, and found a full cabinet shot, where I had left the back box door open. Phew!
Looks like you should now check your TIP122's as a starting point. I fried my VUK by putting a diode on the coil backwards. It ended up being a pain in the ass to track down, but now know MUCH more about how to read schematics than I ever would have before. And for it, I'm a better pinball owner.
So it's time to pull out the multimeter and learn where stuff goes on the CPU board and maybe the PPB Board like it was in my case.
Congrats. Welcome! Is that the one that's been up on ebay for a while? I see it's got the clear pop bumpers, says smart bomb, and has a spot to put a rubber bumper on the wireform (something I wish mine had). Can't be too many of those lower productions around.
Wasn't really familiar with Pinsound, so I looked it up. They have a list of all the SFX used in the game down below on the JP page. I think they misheard one speech SFX. "Love your butt"
Mone didn't have any legs either. Just proper it up on the coil bracket that kicks the ball to the shooter lane. Hating doing so, but was all that I had. I've now reinstalled new prop legs. Mantis I think is what they're called.
Quoted from jim5six:
Has anyone ever tried to make the playfield pivot?
Laser War had a single pivot point. When I got JP I was confused how it worked, and after learning all the ways you can pull the playfield out, I actually like it better. You can reach the stuff at the very back of the playfield better when you pull the playfield out, and the tilt it up. As opposed to just the single pivot point where the back to the playfield is in the bottom of the cabinet. But also serves a great purpose for working on stuff close to the front of the playfield.
bungee probably won't even allow the table to go flat. When I unhook mine, I make sure that the bungee is clearly laying on the bottom of the cabinet. Don't ever get into a rush, because I can see myself hooking some wires and ripping them off.
I just happen to be working on the underside of my playfield right now.
My Left flipper coil is 090-5020-30. The right one is a different make, and it either doesn't have the coil number printed on it, or its on the under side. But guessing it's the same. My Upper Flipper coil is 090-5020-20.
Ahhhhhhh. Big sigh of relief. I think I've made my machine bullet proof. Ever since I got the machine, it's had VUK issues. The seller warned me that it may happen from time to time. The very first thing I did when I got the machine was rebuild the VUK. Which cause me a lot more issues because I installed the diode backwards. But kinda glad it happened, because I am now much more comfortable and familiar with the machine.
But even after the VUK rebuild, it was still having issues. I just blamed it on the angle, and possibly the after market subway mounting hack job. The plastic tabs had broken off, and someone added metal bands to replace it. Little did I know, THAT was the issue. I thought it was because the height wasn't exactly perfect. No, it was the damn rivet they used to hold the metal band in place. I didn't even notice.
they used a total of 4 rivets. But 1 was different than the others. It was a little thicker, and after taking a closer look, I saw that it was bunched up. Like a ball had been striking it. Damn it! That rivet was causing two issues. Making it fail a launch 50% of the time, and kicking it back towards the subway when the ball fell, which wouldn't give it enough momentum to roll back to the VUK.
So I took the subway off, and took my Dremel to that rivet. And after a 30 or so tests, it never failed once.
Done. *Drops Mic*
Does your subway have a thin sheet of plastic covering it? It's supposed to have a chute connected to it, which is probably why the ball misses the subway.
Its hard to see from Gords photos if you don't know it's there.
Quoted from InfiniteLives:
So I'm definitely missing the screw,
Ah. Yep. Sorry, I just had mine off yesterday or I'd measure the screw and the spacer. But that looks like that's all your're missing. Guessing, I'd say that the screw is 1 1/2in long, and the spacer is 1in. But couldn't tell you thread.
Quoted from delt31:
Not sure if this is obvious for others but I thought my flippers were too strong as they were just rebuilt BUT after changing out the type of posts by the ramp, the shots work perfectly (no balls taking off) and I still have a ton of power. Never knew the post material could make that big of a difference.
Ah, yep. That was my problem too. I had Super Band posts. At the Chicago Expo, I picked up some Cliffy Posts, and it's made ball hop almost non-existent.
So which switch would be going bad for this scenario? This only happened once, and I haven't been able to replicate it again yet.
Had two balls kicked into the shooter lane at the start of ball 2. I couldn't launch the balls with the trigger, and the kicker to kick the ball into the shooter lane kept going off. I was able to launch them with the right flipper button though.
I ended up getting tri-ball shortly after the were launched into play, and after tri-ball started, all seemed to work normal.
Not sure what that switch is called, but wondering if it was the one that lets the machine know there's a ball waiting to be kicked to the launcher lane? Maybe it was stuck in a pressed state? But why would the coil that lets balls pass, pass another ball to that staging area?
Quoted from InfiniteLives:
Yeah I do not have a metal threaded mounting point for the subway.
Guessing you're mis-aligning the subway? Like Gordon said, it's hard to see from your photo, but the rest of the trex assembly looks exactly like everyone elses. Maybe there's something already screwed into it? It'll look like a little nub to the left of where the motor mounts. Or maybe it's somehow completely snapped off? That'd suck for sure.
You'll also see the chute on Gordons is right up against the hole that it drops from. Your's is resting on the gear box. So your alignment is a little off.
The only other mounting location is against the VUK. But there is also a tab that the subway slips into. I think that's connected to the power shed drop area.
Quoted from InfiniteLives:
Here are some photos of the non existence of my screw post
That's weird. Has to be an aftermarket addition, right? Wonder if Data East used that housing for another game, and modified the box for JP, and something went bad along the way, and replaced it with the part from the other game?
Quoted from InfiniteLives:
edit: actually the one listed on marcos doesnt look to have the threaded post either lol
That's good to know. Probably what happened.
I bet you could figure a way to secure it to the motor mount screw. How about duct tape (not the adhesive)? That metal ribbon with all the holes in it? It's called Duct something. Cut a piece of that about the length from the motor mount screw to where it should be mounted to. Use your space and screw you already have, and use a nut to screw the metal ribbon to it. It would be better than having it free floating.
Quoted from delt31:
one wrong switch and the whole thing is haywire!
Learned that lesson with my Laser War. I had to bend a light socket to get to something else, but had to press it up against another socket to get enough clearance. I gave myself a reminder that I quickly forgot. Turned the machine back on, and sounds went crazy, and it rapidly continuously kept adding credits. In a WTF panic, I shut down the machine, and thought "how the hell am I going to figure this out?" Looked under the playfield, remembered my note, and all was back to normal again after I fixed the light socket short.
Quoted from winteriscoming:
"Shoot her! Shooot her!"
I can't believe they didn't incorporate that into the game.
I'm surprised it's got as much as it does considering that this machine was in development way before the movie came out. But Data East probably had a lot more clearance to work on it, since there were no social media sites at that time to leak all the info.
Does sound cool with all that's going on. Sounds like a lot of destruction. I agree about the voice coming up a bit. Also, what about using the warning tone from the movies when the electric fence is about to be turned on to electrocute Timmy?
Today's log: The left most pop-bumper stopped popping, but was still registering being hit. Lifted playfield, soldered back on the wire that snapped off, and the left pop-bumper back in action in less than 10 minutes.
About 2 years ago, I never knew how to even take the glass off of a pinball machine. The hobby for me is just as much fixing and working on them as it is playing them. Back in 2008 the design agency I worked at had a few arcade cabinets. I always tried to talk them into a pinball machine. But the guy who was the one who worked on fixing up the arcade cabinets kept saying that pinball machines were much harder to work on, always broke down, and since they didn't make them anymore (no new pinball machines), thus no more parts.
I'll post to facebook every now and then things I've fixed for updated on my machine. I'm still Facebook friends with my old co-worker.
Quoted from markp99:
Been a while with my new GoT sitting right beside.
I'd say out of the latest Stern games, I actually enjoy GoT the most. Main Street Amusements in Lafayette, IN seems to be staying up to date with newer games. He's got ST, MET, TWD, had a WWE, and got GoT a few weeks ago. And I'd say, I get more play for my money with GoT. Had a pretty good 400mill + game last night. Games before were around 35-50 mill. Just seems like MET and TWD don't last very long. Don't watch GoT, so I don't have any idea what anything means, but has been fun to learn.
Quoted from phollibone:
Thank you, problem solved, the tab on the right is broken. So now need to try and source a switch to replace it in Australia. Wish me luck!
If you can't find a replacement right away, personally, I'd attempt to solder it back. May only be temporary, but looks like enough space that you could put a bead of solder between the tab and where it snapped off from.
Seems like I may have noticed that as well at one point. A friend was playing, and heard the callout, and was trying to figure out what he was doing to earn the extra ball.
Quoted from ChadH:
If I recall correctly, if you've reached the extra ball limit and then you go to collect another, instead of getting an extra ball, the game will give you 10 Million.
So.. for example... if your game is set to a maximum of 2 extra balls and while you are playing.. you lite Extra Ball via the mode. You collect it. Now later on you pass the Replay award (and your award is set to Extra Ball). At this point you've collected 2 extra balls which is the limit. But then later in your game you pass the "20 ramp shots threshold" which will lite the Extra Ball lamp. Now when you make the Dock shot to collect it, instead of giving you an extra ball, you are awarded 10 Million.
The limit doesn't prevent Extra Ball from being lit... but it will prevent you from going over the limit and gives 10M in its place.
I think this is how it's always been and isn't new behavior in 6.00.
If someone want to test this... please do.
I'm not sure that's exactly the issue here. My friend was playing, so I wasn't exactly paying attention to all that he was doing, but knew that the Extra ball sound seemed out of place. He was having a good game I remember, and he had already gotten the lit extra ball, and the replay extra ball. He's never been a good enough, and accurate enough shot to do the ramp that many times. I tried to find an explanation to it, but couldn't see where that Extra ball came from. But, I'm not 100% sure, he may have gotten that extra ball. Or we may have forgotten how many he should have had, since I know he got the lit extra ball, and the replay value extra ball on the same ball.
Not saying there is a bug, and maybe it should have been a legit extra ball, but just know there's been at least one time I couldn't explain where the extra ball tone came from.
Quoted from TimeWarp1:
Quick question: At the top of the left out and inlane is there a metal post? I noticed there's a small pilot hole there and on the top of my right out/inlane there is a metal post (no rubber).
I double checked the manual for rubbers pg. 34 and noticed there should be a 3/16" ID rubber at the tops of each out/inlanes as well. Thanks!
There's nothing there on stock machines. Something that was planned, but not installed. The rubber list has a few incorrect callouts. Like the rubber that goes in front of the TRex.
Quoted from TimeWarp1:
Good to know, thanks! For the metal post on the right out/inlane is there supposed to be a rubber or is it a plain metal post?
I've got one on mine. But noticed in my service counts, my left out lanes get about 4 times more drains than the right one. Seems a bit unballanced. So no rubber may be the way to go to keep it fair.
Seriously considering upgrading to Flipper Fidelity speakers. I have a Polk subwoofer which helped a lot. I know there's been discussion before about if it's worth upgrading, but wasnt ready to drop another $150 in it. Now I kinda am. But wold hate it if I didn't notice any difference with it.
Yay or nay?
Quoted from Darscot:
I have nothing against Flipper Fidelity or their products but I personally find there are a lot of good, quality lower cost speakers available. I thought over making a purchase from Flipper Fidelity as my PotO needed new speakers I ended up just grabbing a set of car audio speakers and they were a huge upgrade at significantly less price.
Did you do a 1 to 1 swap or did you have to do some re-engineering? I just don't want to think about it. I just want to drop in something that will work. Last year I had a heck of a time trying to upgrade my Laser War speakers. Couldn't really find anything the same physical size and same ohms or whatever. I did some research last year, and saw that there was a lot to think about with them. End result was about the same quality of sound as stock ones.
Quoted from markp99:
I prefer this result - colored LEDs did not add much and might have produced a somewhat less vivid result than white in the inserts.
Same here. I wasn't a fan of color matching inserts.
Love the mix of everything. I should have stayed with incandescents for my GI's, but went warm white throughout mine, because I didn't want to have to worry about bulbs burning out too soon.
Quoted from Csue:
My husband wants one and I want to surprise him.
I think you'd surprise us all.
The only thing that's become available are clear protectors to go under your current plastic.
Quoted from Gondar:
Does anyone have/know where I can buy the sticker that sticks to the playfield under the T-Rex (the green one with leafs)? Or a good scan/photo so I can make my own? It seems to be missing on a lot of machines, including mine.
Don't think that sticker is available anywhere I've seen. I did see one place had one that goes on the "Shoot TRex" light box. But all of mine on that box were fine. I noticed mine must have been peeling up, or damaged enough, because it looks like someone took an exacto and cut the edge off.
with the 6.00 code, I've found that I'm spending more time trying to hit the targets to light tri-ball, instead of shooting the scoop to start the modes. Because before, I always knew I'd have a shot to get tri-ball on the third ball before. Now you've gotta work for it. My games on average seem to be around 50million. Good games around 100m. Supposed I need to switch it up, and shoot for the modes.
Does the Jackpot light in the Raptor Pit signify the ball drain time when you hit the raptor pit? Seems like it's on when you hit that shot, but have never taken the time to confirm.
Here's an odd one for me, and can't figure out why it would be doing this.
Every once in awhile just the left flipper will act like a connection isn't being made, and will sometimes activate a few quick times then die. Or will flip a split second and die.
After I rebuilt the machine, it did this. Found out that if I cleaned the contacts on the left flipper button switch, it was fixed. BUT...the problem seems to be coming back every few months or so. It just started happening again last night after not doing it for quite a while.
While cleaning between the contacts does help it, why is it just the left flipper switch that keeps loosing contact? I've had no problems with the right one. And all switches are brand new. Even the EOS switches on the flippers.
But signs point that it's the actual left button switch. Just don't understand why I always need to clean that one. Is it improperly finished and getting more oxidation than all the other switches?